ekWM;wy - 5
lwr o bldk fuekZ.k
oL=k ,oa ifj/kku
23
fVIi.kh
lwr o bldk fuekZ.k
fiNys ikB esa vkius lh[kk fd oL=k dh ewy bdkbZ rUrq gS] rUrq y?kq ;k nh?kkZdkj
gksrs gSaA rUrq] [kkl rkSj ij y?kq rUrq] oL=k cukus dh n f"V ls dkQh detksj gksrk
gSA oL=k cukus ls igys rUrq dks fdl izdkj dh ifj"Ñfr nh tkrh gS rFkk mls oL=k
fuekZ.k ds yk;d cuk;k tkrk gS] ;gh lc vki bl ikB ds vUrxZr i<+saxsA
mn~ns';
;g ikB i<+us ds i'pkr vki fuEufyf[kr dj ldsaxs%
lwr dh ifjHkk"kk(
lwr cukus dh izfØ;k dh O;k[;k(
fefJr lwr dk vFkZ o egRo dh O;k[;k rFkk miyC/k fefJr oL=kksa ds mnkgj.k(
lwr dh fo'ks"krkvksa dk o.kZu(
fofHkUu izdkj ds lwrksa dk oxhZdj.k o mi;ksx crkuk] rFkk
/kkxs o lwr esa HksnA
23-1 lwr
vkius viuh eka dks LosVj cqurs t:j ns[kk gksxk ;k fQj dHkh Loa; Hkh LosVj cquk
gksxkA cqukbZ ds fy;s Åu dk yEck /kkxk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA ;fn bl /kkxs dh
,saBu [kksydj bl ds ygfj;s dks ns[ksa rks vki ik;saxs fd ;g /kkxk vusd NksVs rUrqvksa
ls cuk gSA rUrqvksa dks feykdj cuk;s x;s /kkxs dks gh lwr ¼;kuZ½ dgrs gSaA drkbZ
ds le; nh x;h ,saBu rUrqvksa dks yEckbZ o n <+rk iznku djrh gSA y?kq rUrqvksa dks
,saBu nsdj drk gqvk lwr cuk;k tkrk gS rFkk nh?kkZdkj rUrqvksa ls nh?kkZdkj lwr
cuk;k tkrk gSA D;k vki vc lwr dh ifjHkk"kk crk ldsaxs\ gk¡] vkius fcYdqy lgh
crk;kA
lwr ,saBu nsdj feyk;s x;s rUrqvksa dk ,d lewg gSA
x g foKku
161
ekWM;wy - 5
lwr o bldk fuekZ.k
oL=k ,oa ifj/kku
y?kq rUrq o nh?kkZdkj rUrq nksuksa gh lwr cukus ds fy;s iz;ksx fd;s tkrs gSaA
y?kq rUrq drk lwr cukrs gSa vkSj nh?kkZdkj rUrq nh?kkZdkj lwr cukrs gSaA
23-1-1 lwr cukuk
fVIi.kh
rUrqvksa ls lwr cukus dh izfØ;k dks drkbZ ;k dkruk dgrs gSaA
¼i½
y?kq rUrqvksa ls lwr cukuk&rUrqvksa dk ,d xqPNk ysdj loZizFke mls lkQ
o lh/kk fd;k tkrk gSA rRi'pkr rUrqvksa dks [khapdj mUgsa ,dtqV j[kus ds
fy;s ,saBu (Twist) nh tkrh gSA bl izdkj dh drkbZ dks ;kaf=kd drkbZ
dgrs gSaA ;g izkÑfrd rUrqvksa tSls dikl o Åu ij dh tkrh gSA ifj.kkeh
lwr drk gqvk lwr ;k Liu ;kuZ dgykrk gSA
vki Loa; Hkh lwr cukus dh dksf'k'k
dj ldrs gSaA dikl dk ,d xksyk
ysdj ,saBu Mkyrs tk,aA vki ns[ksaxs
fd lwr cu jgk gS D;ksafd dbZ y?kq
rUrqvksa dks ,saBu nh tk jgh gSA rUrqvksa
dks fudkydj [khapus o muesa ,saBu
nsus dh izfØ;k drkbZ dgykrh gSA vki
rdyh] pj[ks ;k drkbZ e'khu ds iz;ksx
fp=k 23.1: gkFk }kjk drkbZ
ls drkbZ dj ldrs gSaA
¼ii½
nh?kkZdkj rUrqvksa ls lwr cukuk&nh?kkZdkj rUrqvksa dh drkbZ jklk;fud
izfØ;k ls gksrh gSA ;g le>us ds fy;s ;kn djsa fd gyokbZ lsob;ka fdl
izdkj cukrk gSA og cslu dks xwa/k dj Nyuh esa ls fudkydj xeZ rsy esa
ryrk gSA xeZ rsy cslu dks u;k :i ns nsrk gSA jklk;fud drkbZ dh
izfØ;k Hkh dqN blh izdkj gksrh gSA dPps inkFkksZa ¼jklk;fud½ ls rS;kj
drkbZ dk ?kksy fLiujsV ;k NUuh ¼ns[kus esa Lukuxkj ds QOokjs tSlh½ ds
fNnzksa ls ckgj fudkyk tkrk gSA fNnzksa ls ckgj fudyus ds i'pkr ?kksy
Bksl /kkxs esa cny tkrk gS] ftls ge fQykesUV ;k nh?kkZdkj rUrq dgrs gSaA
bUgha nh?kkZdkj rUrqvksa dks ,saBu nsdj ,d n <+ o mRÑ"V lwr dk fuekZ.k
gksrk gSA
23-2 fefJr lwr
vkius VsjhdkWV o dkWV~lowy dk uke rks vo'; lquk gksxkA ;g fefJr oL=kksa ds uke
gSa tks ,d ;k vf/kd izdkj ds rUrqvksa dks feykdj cuk;s tkrs gSaA ftl le; lwr
dh drkbZ gksrh gS] ml le; nks izdkj ds rUrqvksa dks D;ksa feyk;k tkrk gS\ gk¡] nks
izdkj ds rUrqvksa dks feykdj nksuksa ds vPNs xq.kksa dks ,d gh oL=k esa izkIr fd;k
162
x`g foKku
ekWM;wy - 5
lwr o bldk fuekZ.k
oL=k ,oa ifj/kku
tkrk gSA lwrh rUrqvksa dks Vsjsyhu ¼iksfyLVj½ esa feykdj VsjhdkWV cuk;k tkrk gSA
VsjhdkWV oL=k esa lwrh dh vkjkenk;drk gS rFkk Vsjsyhu ¼iksfyLVj½ dk vklku
j[kj[kko dk xq.k gSA blh izdkj Åu o js'ke ds rUrqvksa dks Vsjhyhu ds lkFk
feykdj Vsjhoqy o VsjhflYd cuk;k tk ldrk gSA
rkfydk 23-1 vkerkSj ij miyC/k fefJr oL=k
oL=k
lajpuk
VjhdkWV
Vsjsyhu $ lwrh
dkWV~loqy
lwrh $ Åu
Vsjhoqy
Vsjsyhu $ Åu
lwrh js'keh
lwrh $ js'ke
oqy,sfØfyd
Åu $ ,fØfyd
fVIi.kh
fØ;kdyki 23-1
vius iM+kSl dh fdlh diM+s dh nqdku esa tkdj ftrus Hkh fefJr oL=k miyC/k gksa]
mudk irk djsaA vius i;Zos{k.k (observation) viuh fjdkWMZ iqfLrdk esa fy[ksaA
Ø0 la[;k
miyC/k fefJr oL=k
lajpuk
ikBxr iz'u 23-1
'kCn fiVkjs esa fn;s x;s v{kjksa dh enn ls fjDr LFkkuksa dh iwfrZ dfj;sA ,d v{kj
,d ls vf/kd ckj iz;ksx fd;k tk ldrk gSA
x g foKku
fp=k 23.2 % 'kCn fiVkjk
163
ekWM;wy - 5
lwr o bldk fuekZ.k
oL=k ,oa ifj/kku
¼i½
jklk;fud drkbZ dh izfØ;k ds varxZr -------------dk ?kksy cuk;k tkrk gS] ?kksy
dks ------------ ls fudky dj -------------------- rUrq dk :i ns fn;k tkrk gSA
¼ii½
drkbZ rdyh ls ------------- vkSj ---------- ds }kjk dh tkrh gSA
¼iii½
drk lwr ¼Liu lwr½ -------------- rUrq vkSj nh?kkZdkj lwr --------------- rUrqvksa ls
feydj cuk gSA
¼iv½
nks izdkj ds fefJr lwr ------------- vkSj ------------ gSaA
fVIi.kh
23-3 lwr ds fo'ks"krk,a
fiNys ikB esa fofHkUu rUrqvksa dh fo'ks"krkvksa ij fopkj fd;k x;k Fkk vkSj ;g Hkh
ns[kk x;k Fkk fd rUrqvksa dh fo'ks"krk,a fdl izdkj oL=k ds xq.kksa dks ;k O;ogkj dks
izHkkfor djrh gSaA lwr ds xq.k Hkh oL=k ds O;ogkj dks izHkkfor djrs gSaA
lwr ds nks vfr egÙoiw.kZ xq.k mldh eksVkbZ@ckjhdh vkSj mlesa ,saBu dh ek=kk gSaA
lwr ds bu nks xq.kksa dk vkilh laca/k gSA lwr esa ftruh vf/kd ,saBu gksxh og mruk
gh ckjhd] fpduk o n <+ gksxkA D;k vkidks lwr cukus dh izfØ;k ;kn gS fd
ftruk T;knk lwr dks [khapdj ,saBu nh tkrh gS mruk gh ckjhd lwr izkIr gksrk
gSA rFkkfi ;fn lwr esa vf/kd ,saBu nh tk, rks oL=k esa flyoV okyk izHkko mRiUu
gks tkrk gSA ,sls lwr dks Øsi lwr dgrs gSaA ;g eq[;r;k nqiV~Vs cukus ds oL=kksa
esa iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA
23-4 lwr ds izdkj
lwr dh jpuk ds vk/kkj ij mls rhu lewgksa esa ck¡Vk tk ldrk gSA
1-
lk/kkj.k lwr (Simple yarn)
2-
tfVy ;k ukWoYVh lwr (Novelty yarn)
3-
izdkfpr lwr (Textured yarn)
1-
lk/kkj.k lwr
og lwr tks fpduk o ,dlkj gks vkSj ftlesa leku :i ls ,saBu gks] lk/kkj.k
lwr dgykrk gSA ;g vkerkSj ij ikWifyu o dsfEczd cukus ds dke vkrk gSA
lk/kkj.k lwr dks Hkh rhu lewgksa esa ckaVk tk ldrk gSA
¼i ½
164
lk/kkj.k bdgjk lwr & ;g mu rUrqvksa dk lewg gS ftlds lHkh Hkkxksa
esa ,d leku ,saBu gksrh gSA
x`g foKku
ekWM;wy - 5
lwr o bldk fuekZ.k
oL=k ,oa ifj/kku
fp=k 23-3: lk/kkj.k bdgjk lwr
fVIi.kh
¼ii½ lk/kkj.k IykbZ lwr & bls nks ;k nks ls vf/kd bdgjs lwrksa dks leku :i
ls ,saBdj cuk;k tkrk gSA ;fn IykbZ esa nks bdgjs lwr gksa rks ;g nksgjk
IykbZ ;k 2 IykbZ dgykrk gSA bl izdkj dk lwr 2x2 :fc;k oL=k esa
ik;k tkrk gS] ftlesa oL=k dh nksuksa fn'kkvksa esa 2 IykbZ dk lwr yxk;k
tkrk gSA
fp=k 23-4: 2 IykbZ lwr
blh izdkj 3 IykbZ ;k 4 IykbZ lwr Hkh miyC/k gksrs gSaA
fp=k 23-5 3 IykbZ lwr
fp=k 23-6 4 IykbZ lwr
,d lk/kkj.k dkWMZ lwr nks ;k vf/kd IykbZ lwrksa dks ,d lkFk ,saBdj cuk;k tkrk
gSA dkWMZ lwr dks ns[kus ds fy;s diM+s lq[kkus dh Mksjh ysa vkSj mls [kksydj ns[ksaA
fp=k 23-7 dkWMZ lwr
dkWMZ lwr cukus ds fy;s & nks ;k vf/kd IykbZ lwr ysa] bldks ,saBu nsaA dkWMZ
lwr rS;kj gks tk;sxkA
x g foKku
165
ekWM;wy - 5
lwr o bldk fuekZ.k
oL=k ,oa ifj/kku
2-
fVIi.kh
tfVy lwr ;k ukWoYVh lwr
oL=k cukus okyk lwr ges'kk fpduk o ,d leku ugha gksrkA ,d [kknh oL=k
dks m/ksM+dj mlds lwr nsf[k;sA vki ns[ksaxs fd ;g lwr ,d leku u gksdj
dgha iryk rks dgha eksVk gksrk gSA ,sls lwr tfVy ;k ukWoYVh lwr dgykrs
gSaA tfVy lwr vleku gksrs gSa] tks dgha eksVs] dgha irys gksus ds vfrfjDr
?kqa?kjkys] QUnsnkj] ,saBunkj vkSj dbZ ckj yEckbZ esa jax dh fofHkUurk fy;s
gq;s gksrs gSaA /kkxs dh bl lqanjrk ds dkj.k bu tfVy /kkxksa dks oL=kksa esa
lqanj vkSj uohu izHkko ds fy;s iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA lk/kkj.k lwr dh rjg]
tfVy lwr Hkh bdgjs ;k nksgjs gks ldrs gSaA
bdgjk tfVy lwr] vkerkSj ij txg&txg ij vleku :i ls ,saBu nsdj eksVk
;k iryk fd;k tkrk gSA bl rjg dk lwr [kknh oL=kksa esa ik;k tkrk gSA
tfVy IykbZ lwr ij fopkjfoe'kZ djus ls igys ;kn djsa fd IykbZ lwr nks ;k
vf/kd bdgjs leku :i ls ,saBs gq;s lwrksa ls curk gSA tfVy IykbZ esa nks ;k
vf/kd tfVy lwr ,d nwljs ds pkjksa vksj fyiV dj Qans] NYys ;k xkaBs cukrs gSa
rkfd lqanj izHkko mRiUu gksaA cgqr ls cqukbZ ds /kkxs] tfVy IykbZ lwr gksrs gSa tks
LosVj esa :fpdj cqukoV mRiUu djrs gSaA lk/kkj.k lwr dh Hkk¡fr tfVy lwr Hkh
bdgjs ;k IykbZ lwr gksrs gSaA
vki lc us ,d vU; izdkj dk lwr vo'; ns[kk gksxk&og gS dksj lwrA vius iqjkus
eksts esa ls bykfLVd fudky dj nsf[k;s& vki ns[ksaxs fd bl bykfLVd ds Åij
lwrh ;k uk;ykWu dk lwr fyiVk gqvk gSA ,sls lwr dks dksj lwr dgrs gSa rFkk bldk
oxhZdj.k ukWoYVh lwr ds vUrxZr fd;k x;k gSA
fp=k 23.8 (a) % Lyc lwr ¼dgha ls eksVk] dgha ls iryk½
fp=k 23.8 (b) % Lihjk@ftai lwr ¼dksey] eksVs lwr vkSj dM+s]
ckjhd lwr dks ,saB dj cuk;k lwr½
166
x`g foKku
lwr o bldk fuekZ.k
ekWM;wy - 5
oL=k ,oa ifj/kku
fVIi.kh
fp=k 23.8 (c) % ckWDys lwr ¼nks fofHkUu lwr e'khu esa fofHkUu xfr ij Mkys tkrs gSa
ftlls ygfj;snkj izHkko izkIr gksrk gS½
fp=k 23.8 (d) % ywi lwr ¼dksj lwr ls fudy dj NYys ;k ywi cukrs gq, dM+s lwr½
fp=k 23.8 (e) % LukyZ lwr ¼vR;f/kd ,saBs gq, lwr½
fp=k 23.8 (f) % ukWi lwr ¼vk/kkjHkwr lwr dks rkudj ml ij rst
xfr ls ukWi cuk, tkrs gSa½
fp=k 23.8 (g) % 'kWuhy lwr ¼cqukbZ djds dkrk x;k lwr½
x g foKku
167
ekWM;wy - 5
lwr o bldk fuekZ.k
oL=k ,oa ifj/kku
3-
izdkfpr (Textured) lwr & tc vki LosVj dks m/ksM+rs gSa rks tks Åu cqukbZ
djrs oDr lh/kh Fkh og ?kq¡?kjkyh cudj fudyrh gSA bl lwr ¼Åu½ dks ge
izdkfpr ;k VsDlpMZ lwr dg ldrs gSaA
;g izdkfprrk D;k gS\
fVIi.kh
izdkfprrk] ekuofufeZr nh?kkZdkj rUrqvksa dks fn;k tkus okyk VªhVesaV ;k izHkko
gS ftlds i'pkr~ nh?kkZdkj rUrq esa ?kqa?kjkyk] QUnsnkj] oy;kdkj o ygjnkj
izHkko mRiUu gks tkrk gSA
,d fpdus nh?kkZdkj rUrq esa izdkfprrk ds i'pkr fuEu izHkko ns[kus esa vkrs gSa&
D;k vkidks fiNys ikB esa i<+s gq;s ekuo fufeZr nh?kkZdkj rUrq tSls uk;ykWu rFkk
ikWfy,LVj ds xq.k ;kn gSa\ gk¡] os fpdus] gYds] fQlyus okys o ueh dks de
vo'kksf"kr djus okys rUrq gSaA blhfy;s lk/kkj.k nh?kkZdkj rUrq ls cuus okys oL=k
iguus esa vlqfo/kktud gksrs gSaA tc bu ¼nh?kkZdkj½ rUrqvksa dks VsDlpj fn;k
tkrk gS rc ;s ?kus] Hkkjh vkSj T;knk yphys gks tkrs gSaA bl ifjofrZr VsDlpj ;k
cqukoV ds dkj.k lwrkssa ds chp fjDr LFkku cu tkrs gSaA blls oL=k T;knk ueh
lks[kus okys o gok ds vPNs vknku iznku ds dkj.k vf/kd vkjkensg gks tkrs gSaA
izdkfpr lwr dks ns[kus ds fy;s viuh uk;ykWu ds eksts dk ,d lwr fudkfy;sA
vki ns[ksaxs fd ;g lwr QqTt+hnkj] dksey] yphyk o lkekU; uk;ykWu dh rqyuk
esa vf/kd ?kuk gSA
fp=k 23.9 (a) % xksykdkj (coiled)
fp=k 23.9 (b) % ihDM fØEiM (peaked crimped)
168
x`g foKku
ekWM;wy - 5
lwr o bldk fuekZ.k
oL=k ,oa ifj/kku
fVIi.kh
fp=k 23.9 (c) % jkmaMsM fØEiM (rounded crimped)
fp=k 23.9 (d) % /kq¡/kjkyk (curled)
fp=k 23.9 (e) % vf/kd Hkkj okyk lwr (high bulk)
/kkxk vkSj lwr
vkius cgqr ckj /kkxk vkSj lwr 'kCn dk iz;ksx ,d nwljs ds LFkku ij fd;k gksxkA
njvly /kkxk vkSj lwr esa lekurk gS ij og ,d ugha gSaA lwr ij vkSj vf/kd
fØ;k djus ds ckn] mls /kkxs dk :i ns fn;k tkrk gSA
lk/kkj.kr;k /kkxk IykbZ lwr ls cuk gksrk gSA ;g lwr
ls T;knk ckjhd] ,d leku vkSj n <+ gksrk gSA
x g foKku
169
ekWM;wy - 5
lwr o bldk fuekZ.k
oL=k ,oa ifj/kku
ikBxr iz'u 23-2
1.
fuEu esa varj crkb;s &
(i) bdgjk lwr o IykbZ lwr
(ii) dkWMZ lwr o dksj lwr
(iii) tfVy lwr vkSj izdkfpr ¼Textured½ lwr
(iv) /kkxk vkSj lwr
2.
fuEu oDrO;ksa dks tgk¡ Hkh vko';d gks] mnkgj.k nsdj le>kb;sA
(i) cgqr vf/kd ,saBu lwr esa ?kqa?kjkykiu ;k fØady izHkko nsrh gSA
(ii) tfVy lwr dk iz;ksx oL=kksa esa lqUnj izHkko mRiUu djrk gSA
(iii) tfVy lwr dk O;kl vleku gksrk gSA
(iv) /kkxk vkSj lwr ,d ugha gSaA
fVIi.kh
vkius D;k lh[kk
lQkbZ
↓
rUrq
lh/kk djuk
;kaf=kd drkbZ
↓
[khapuk
↓
drk gqvk
lwr
drkbZ
,saBu nsuk
drkbZ dk jklk;fud ?kksy
jklk;fud drkbZ
↓
fLiujsV ;k NUuh
↓
lwr
/kkxs dk Bksl cuuk
↓
lk/kkj.k
bdgjk lwr
170
IykbZ lwr
nh?kkZdkj rUrq
,saBu nsuk
tfVy@ukWoYVh
izdkfpr lwr
dkWMZ lwr
x`g foKku
ekWM;wy - 5
lwr o bldk fuekZ.k
oL=k ,oa ifj/kku
ikBkUr iz'u
12345-
lwr 'kCn dks ifjHkkf"kr dhft;sA
y?kq rUrq ls lwr cukus dh izfØ;k le>kb;sA
izdkfpr lwr ls cus diM+s iguus esa T;knk vkjkenk;d D;ksa gksrs gSa\
fdu vfrfjDr xq.kksa ds dkj.k lwr] /kkxk curk gS\
Vsjhoqy oL=k [kjhnrs le; vki fdu xq.kksa dks ns[krs gSa\
fVIi.kh
ikBxr iz'uksa ds mÙkj
23-1
¼i½
¼iii½
drkbZ] NUuh ls] Bksl
y?kq] nh?kkZdkj
¼ii½
¼iv½
pj[ks] drkbZ e'khu
dkWV~loqy vkSj VsjhdkWV
23-2
12-
Ñi;k ikB ns[ksa
Ñi;k ikB ns[ksa
vf/kd tkudkjh ds fy;s ykWx vku djsa
http://www.fabriclink.com/fabriccare.html
x g foKku
171