Information and Orientation Guide

The Institute of Middle East Studies
at Arab Baptist Theological Seminary
Contents
Overview............................................................................................................................. 3
Welcome to MEI Lebanon! ........................................................................................................................3
What Is the Institute of Middle East Studies? ........................................................................................4
Program Details ................................................................................................................. 6
The History of MEI Lebanon .....................................................................................................................6
Faculty and Staff ............................................................................................................................................6
Course Descriptions ...................................................................................................................................8
Timeline ..........................................................................................................................................................9
Partner Institutions in Lebanon .............................................................................................................. 10
Admissions........................................................................................................................ 12
Admissions Process .................................................................................................................................. 12
Admissions Timeline ................................................................................................................................. 12
Costs and Travel Logistics .............................................................................................. 13
Estimated Expenses................................................................................................................................... 13
Logistical Issues .......................................................................................................................................... 14
Required Travel Documents .................................................................................................................. 17
Student Life ...................................................................................................................... 18
What to Expect in Lebanon: One Student to Another .................................................................... 18
LSESD Welcome to Lebanon Guide ..................................................................................................... 22
Beirut Transportation Guide .................................................................................................................. 27
Middle East Immersion | 2
Overview
Welcome to MEI Lebanon!
Middle East Immersion (MEI) provides graduate seminarians and intercultural studies students with
the opportunity to earn academic credit in fulfillment of intercultural practicum or practical
ministry requirements, while being exposed to Muslim-Christian relations in the context of
Lebanon.
MEI Lebanon is a project of the Institute of Middle East Studies (IMES). While in Lebanon, students
study under the supervision and guidance of IMES Director Dr. Martin Accad and IMES Projects
Manager Jesse Wheeler based at the Arab Baptist Theological Seminary (ABTS), overlooking the
Mediterranean city of Beirut.
MEI Lebanon consists of the following core components:

Participation in IMES’s annual Middle East Consultation (MEC)1

Levantine Arabic language and culture study through IMES’s Academy of Languages and
Practical Skills (ALPS)

An intercultural practicum placement meeting the specific interests and skills of the
student. (For example: interacting with urban Sunni Beirutis, at-risk youth, refugee
populations, or settled Bedouin.)

Field visits, weekend excursions, church and mosque visits, and extra activities throughout
Beirut and Lebanon.

Regular debrief and discussion meetings, lectures, integrative journal reflections, and
additional readings, research, and relevant assignments.
The Middle East Immersion program allows students to practice intercultural work in a dynamic
context and engage in mutual learning between Christian and Muslim communities.
Courses2


Middle East Consultation Course
Levantine Arabic
1
MENA Studies 501 may be an option for students not participating in the MEI Lebanon program during summer
months.
2
See below for a more detailed description.
Middle East Immersion | 3

Cross-cultural Work in Context
Faculty/Staff


IMES Director: Martin Accad, Ph.D. | [email protected]
IMES Projects Manager: Jesse Steven Wheeler, M.Div. | [email protected]
Websites


The Institute of Middle East Studies (IMES): IMESLebaon.wordpress.com/mei
Arab Baptist Theological Seminary (ABTS): ABTSLebanon.org
What Is the Institute of Middle East Studies?
Mandate, Purpose and Strategic Goals
The Institute of Middle East Studies (IMES) is a research and resource institute founded by Arab
Baptist Theological Seminary (ABTS).
The MANDATE of IMES is to bring about positive transformation in thinking and practice between
Christians and Muslims in the Middle East and beyond. IMES is responding to the increasingly
urgent need to dispel mutually false perceptions between peoples of different religions and
cultures, which eventually result in inadequate practice in social, religious, political, and personal
spheres.
As such, the PURPOSE of IMES is to increase general awareness about Middle East realities and
to resource Evangelicals to serve specific needs in the Arab World and among Arab
communities worldwide.
To fulfill its mandate and purpose, IMES has developed the following STRATEGIC GOALS:

To provoke our Evangelical communities to a Christ-like attitude towards Muslims that
nurtures vibrant witness

To promote Christ’s model of peace by providing space for diverse people in Lebanon to
come together, addressing issues of injustice and facilitating healing

To equip our constituencies with the necessary knowledge and skills to advocate for justice
and human rights in our region, along the injunction of Micah 6:8: “He has showed you, O
man, what is good. And what does the LORD require of you? To act justly and to love
mercy and to walk humbly with your God.”
In other words, IMES prioritizes Education, Advocacy and Peace-building.
Middle East Immersion | 4
Who Do We Serve?






Community and religious workers (Arab and non-Arab) active in the Arab world or among
Arab communities worldwide
Leaders of Christian organizations based in and focused on the Arab world
Theology students with a pastoral, intercultural, teaching and/or research focus
Christian instructors and researchers in Middle Eastern studies
Christian reporters and authors working on Middle Eastern issues
The wider Christian community in the Middle East and beyond
IMES seeks to fulfill its mandate by offering first hand exposure to Middle East realities, and
study and research opportunities in an Arab Middle Eastern context. It promotes and initiates
the development of contextually appropriate resources that inspire transformed practice.
IMES Projects
The following PROJECTS constitute the principal activities of IMES designed to fulfill its
Mandate:





The Middle East Immersion (MEI Lebanon) practicum program
Master of Religion in Middle Eastern and North African Studies (MRel in MENA Studies)
degree program
The annual Middle East Consultation (MEC)
The Academy of Languages and Practical Skills (ALPS) Levantine-Arabic language school
The Social Media Initiative centered at IMESLebanon.wordpress.com. Blog posts published
new each week from IMES faculty and staff.
Contact
For more information about IMES activities:
[email protected]
The Arab Baptist Theological Seminary
P.O. Box 60, Mansourieh, Maten, Lebanon
+961-4-400250 (Ext. 287) | Fax: +961-4-532481
Middle East Immersion | 5
Program Details
The History of MEI Lebanon
The Middle East Immersion program (formerly the Lebanon Practicum) initially launched in
2007 as a partnership between the Institute of Middle East Studies and Fuller Theological
Seminary’s School of Intercultural Studies. The Lebanon Practicum was designed to allow
seminary and intercultural studies students the opportunity to earn up to 12 credits of
coursework in fulfillment of intercultural practicum requirements while simultaneously exposing
them to the culture and heritage of the Middle East, in line with IMES’s institutional mandate to
bring about positive transformation in the thinking and practice between Christians and Muslims in the
Middle East and beyond.
Since 2007 students from Fuller Theological Seminary, Truett Theological Seminary, BIOLA
University and Bethel Seminary, among others, have spent their summer quarters in Lebanon
studying under the guidance of Dr. Martin Accad, IMES Director and Professor of Islamic
Studies at the Arab Baptist Theological Seminary, Lebanon and Fuller Theological Seminary,
California. More recently, Jesse Wheeler joined the IMES team as Projects Manager and
Support Faculty for MENA History, Politics and Economics. Students have come from a variety
personal and professional backgrounds and degree programs.
Now in its 9th year, the operations of Middle East Immersion program have been fully assumed
by the significantly expanded Institute of Middle East Studies, which is seeking to partner with a
variety of graduate theological and intercultural studies programs.
Faculty and Staff
Martin Accad has been serving as director of the Institute of Middle
East Studies at the Arab Baptist Theological Seminary since 2003,
having served as well as Academic Dean of ABTS for 5 years between
2004 and 2008. He joined ABTS in 2001 after receiving his DPhil
(PhD) from the University of Oxford for a dissertation on the
interpretation of the Gospels by Muslims of the 8th to the
14th centuries. Before that, he earned a Bachelor’s degree in Theology
from the Near East School of Theology in Beirut, Lebanon, and an
MPhil in Eastern Christian Studies from the University of Oxford.
Accad’s academic career has been influenced from the beginning by current affairs. He defended
his doctoral dissertation on September 11, 2001 and found himself immediately thrust into the
teaching of Islam for the sake of better Christian-Muslim understanding. In 2006, he was invited
by Fuller Theological Seminary in Pasadena (CA) to take up the faculty position of Islamic
Studies. He subsequently taught there for 3-4 months every year, the rest of the time living and
Middle East Immersion | 6
working in Lebanon. With an ever expanding family and the recent growth of IMES, Dr. Accad
remains an Affiliate member of faculty with Fuller Theological Seminary, but spends the majority
of his time in Lebanon.
Accad has published numerous articles and book chapters in the fields of Islam and ChristianMuslim relations, including “Christian Attitudes toward Islam and Muslims: A Kerygmatic
Approach,” “Mission at the Intersection of Religion and Empire,” “Loving Neighbor in Word
and Deed: What Jesus Meant,” and the article on the “Trinity” in the IVP Dictionary of Mission
Theology.
With a rich multicultural background in his own family, a Lebanese father and Swiss mother,
Accad views himself as a bridge between cultures: an interpreter of Arab-Middle-Eastern
complexities to a western audience, and of western complexities to an Arab audience. He also
grew up through the Lebanese Civil War from 1975-1990 and understands the lethal potential
of religions on human relationships. But conversely as well, he has experienced and witnessed
the redemptive and transformational power of the teaching and model of Jesus of Nazareth
both for individuals and communities. Martin is married to Nadia, an active advocate for the
poor and most marginalized by the mainstream in Lebanese society, and they have two amazing
children, Mia and Alexandre, who have more cultural mix in their background than their own
parents can keep count of.
Jesse Wheeler serves as Projects Manager for the Institute of
Middle East Studies (IMES). In addition to providing critical
administrative support for IMES, Jesse directs the Middle East
Immersion (MEI Lebanon) summer internship program and serves as
managing editor for the IMES blog. In addition to serving as Support
Faculty for the MENA History, Politics and Economics module, Jesse
currently leads the Induction and Research Methods modules, as well
as the Middle East Consultation course for the MRel in MENA Studies
program. Jesse holds a Master of Divinity with special emphasis in
Islamic Studies from Fuller Theological Seminary and a Bachelor of Arts in History specializing
in international and Middle Eastern history with a minor in Political Economics from the
University of California, Berkeley.
Jesse, his wife Heidi, and their adorable son Nimer moved to Lebanon in 2013 and see it as
their personal (as well as institutional) mandate to help bring about positive transformation in the
thinking and practice between Christians and Muslims in the Middle East and beyond.
In a prior life, or so it seems, Jesse has ministered to children and youth in both Nazarene and
Korean Presbyterian churches, worked as Teaching and Research Assistant for Martin Accad
and J. Dudley Woodberry, and served as the Islamic Studies Administrative Coordinator for
Fuller Theological Seminary. He currently attends and periodically preaches at Sin El-Fil
Middle East Immersion | 7
Nazarene church in Beirut, Lebanon. Jesse has also spent a good deal of time teaching English as
a Second Language (currently Introduction to Theological English for ABTS), playing guitar, and
watching far more ‘sci-fi’ than is appropriate for a grown adult male. In addition to IMES
Lebanon, Jesse blogs at intothenoise.tumblr.com.
Jesse is himself an MEI alumni and is deeply committed to the MEI program and seeks a positive
experience for all involved. In other words, “I’ve been there!”
Course Descriptions
Middle East Consultation Course
The Middle East Consultation is an annual conference hosted by the Institute of Middle East
Studies (IMES) at the Arab Baptist Theological Seminary (ABTS). The consultation draws Muslim
and Christian clerics, students and scholars who gather for the purpose of dialogue. All MEI
students are required to participate in this consultation.
Upon completion of the Middle East Consultation, the remainder of your time in Lebanon is split
between Arabic classes and an intercultural practicum placement.
Levantine Arabic
This course consists of Arabic language learning through the Academy of Languages and Practical
Skills (ALPS) located in Beirut’s vibrant Hamra district. Course levels are available from beginner
through advanced, and the school specializes in the Levantine dialect of Arabic. The vision of
ALPS is to “use learning of Arabic as a means to bridge the linguistic and cultural divide between
people, increasing understanding and cooperation between individuals and institutions in the
Middle East and in the World.”
Cross-cultural Work in Context
Participants are placed in a practicum that pertains to their specific vocational interests. With an
array of organizations and ministries to choose from, this placement may focus on children at
risk, community development, migration, urban issues, etc. Furthermore, students may focus on
any number of population groups in and around Beirut such as urban Sunni Beirutis, university
students, inner-city Shiites, rural Druze and settled Bedouin.
MENA Studies 501
MENA Studies 501 is an intensive master’s level course focusing on topics related to Middle
Eastern and North African religion/s, including the multifaceted dimensions of both MENA Islam
Middle East Immersion | 8
and Christianity, as well as culture, history, politics and economics, current trends, and
intercultural and interfaith interactions. This course serves as an essential primer for those
interested in immersing themselves or engaging in intercultural work in the MENA context.
MENA Studies 501 was developed as an alternative to the MEC course for those students not
participating in the summer months.
Timeline
Week 1
Middle East Consultation3
Introductions and team-building
Introductions to placement sites and site supervisors
Beirut city tour
Church visit
Week 2
Practical ministry placement
Arabic language study-ALPS
Debrief and integrative reflection
Lecture and discussion
Weekend excursion
Church/Mosque visit
Week 3
Practical ministry placement
Arabic language study-ALPS
Debrief and integrative reflection
Lecture and discussion
Weekend excursion
Church/Mosque visit
Week 4
Practical ministry placement
Arabic language study-ALPS
Debrief and integrative reflection
Lecture and discussion
Weekend excursion
Church/Mosque visit
Week 5
Practical ministry placement
Arabic language study-ALPS
Debrief and integrative reflection
Lecture and discussion
3
Or MENA Studies 501
Middle East Immersion | 9
Departure
MEI Evaluation
Partner Institutions in Lebanon
IMES/ABTS has long standing relationships with the following partner organizations in Lebanon:
Heart for Lebanon (http://www.heartforlebanon.org/)
Heart for Lebanon is an NGO in Lebanon started in response to the aftermath of the July 2006
war. It launched a series of relief activities in the North, South, Bekaa Valley, and suburbs of
Beirut to reach the neediest of the needy but soon turned its focus to different community
development projects, with a particular concern for children. Heart for Lebanon is dedicated to
providing humanitarian aid, facilitating proper education, strengthening community development
and promoting leadership empowerment. Its mission is to see lives changed and communities
transformed.
Tahaddi (http://www.tahaddilebanon.org/)
Tahaddi (“challenge” in Arabic) is a non-profit organization aimed at facing the challenge of
poverty by serving marginalized communities in Beirut, Lebanon, with two medical clinics, an
education center and prison work with migrant women.
Beit el-Hanane (http://www.beitelhanane.com/)
The mission of Beit el-Hanane (“Home of Tenderness” in Arabic) is to: a) Help women
emotionally, psychologically, and physically; b) Help physically and mentally abused women
regardless of one’s religion, sect, age, nationality, etc.; c) Find safe and secure places for the
women after leaving Beit El-Hanane; d) Help women to be rehabilitated in order to become
fully integrated in society; e) Help women improve their education through providing technical
skills and training; f) Help women find fulfilling employment which will best utilize their talents
and skills so that they may become self-supporting.
Howard Karagheusian Commemorative Corporation (http://thkcc.org/)
The Howard Karagheusian Commemorative Corporation (HKCC) is a non-governmental
organization established in 1921 in New York by Mr. & Mrs. Mihran and Zabel Karagheusian for
the memory of their son, Howard who has passed away in his childhood. Through this
foundation Mr. & Mrs. Karagheusian wanted to create a child care center and dispensary
services for the prevention of child death and diseases. In 1943 The Karagheusian Foundation
started to serve in Lebanon as a Primary Health Care Center, yet includes educational and
social development programs to care for the ‘whole child’.
Middle East Immersion | 10
Le Grain de Ble (http://www.graindeble.org/lb/)
The mission of Le Grain de Ble (Grain of Wheat) is to reach the maximum number of children
possible with the message of God’s love, helping them to grow morally, socially, and spiritually
through a personal relationship with Jesus Christ. This is done in partnership with local
churches primarily through camps, church and school programs, and a variety of other
activities.
Safe Haven Home for Girls
Safe Haven Home for Girls is a home for abused and disadvantaged girls from all over Lebanon
that seeks to provide the girls with the food, clothing, shelter, medical care and education that
they previously had no access to; to teach them Biblical values and principles that will shape
their character and guide them for the future; and to be a blessing to their immediate families –
most of whom are from non-Christian backgrounds.
LSESD Relief and Development (http://www.lsesd.org/)
The Relief and Development Program at the Lebanese Society for Educational and Social
Development (LSESD) was born out of emergency relief that LSESD provided to internally
displaced persons (IDPs) during the 2006 War. That experience highlighted the opportunity to
engage in development projects in the country, as was requested by former IDPs after they
returned to their communities. The program was created and has since undergone rapid
expansion back into the relief realm, responding to Syrian refugees in Lebanon and Syria. This
has become an impacting ministry, as churches have been the primary partners distributing
relief supplies and conducting activities, resulting in unexpected fellowship between refugees
and church members. This serves to not only meet the physical and social needs of the
refugees, but has broadened the spiritual vision of Lebanese Christians involved in the response,
enhancing the role of the Church in Lebanon.
It is important for students to understand that each of the above organizations are independent,
ongoing ministries based in Lebanon at which students will be coming alongside to serve. The
more prepared students are prior to arrival the better it is for them as well as for the
organization at which they will be working. Students therefore should do their best to find out
as much information as possible about each organization (explore the website, communicate
with IMES staff, contact ministry directors, etc.). Furthermore, not all placement sites are
created equal. Each site has a different organizational culture and operational style, and it may
be very different from that which students are accustomed. Some organizations may have tasks
at hand for volunteers to complete, while others will expect volunteers to come with a plan
ready to go from the first day with little or no guidance. As such, the first MEI Lebanon
assignment is to brainstorm and develop potential activities for the student’s placement site.
Middle East Immersion | 11
Admissions
Admissions Process
A prospective student wishing to APPLY should:
1) Consult with her or his academic advisor, practicum coordinator, or equivalent about
the intention to participate in the MEI Lebanon program.
2) Download and submit completed Application Documents and Application Fee by
required deadlines:
a. Application Documents
i. Application Form
ii. Application Essays
iii. CV/Resume
iv. Letters of Recommendation
1. Academic/Professional Reference
2. Pastoral/Character Reference
b. Download application documents at IMESLebanon.wordpress.com, or receive
copies from her or his practicum coordinator.
c. Submit completed application documents to: [email protected] or to the
home institution’s practicum coordinator - if instructed to do so.
d. Arrange to submit application fee and any necessary documentation with
student’s practicum coordinator.
3) Await final admissions decision
a. Meanwhile students may wish to review orientation materials, gather necessary
travel documents and begin to secure necessary funding.
Admissions Timeline
MEI Lebanon 2015 (15 June – 18 [25] July)
Item
Application Deadline
Acceptance Notification
Confirmation Deadline
Total Fees Due
MEC 2015 Begins
Recommended Arrival Date
Practicum Placements Begin
Language Studies Begin
MEI Concludes
Date
27 February
20 March
10 April
5 June
15 June
13 June*
22 June
22 June
18 July*
Middle East Immersion | 12
Note
Tuition, Room & Board
*Plan for Jetlag
*Tahaddi Ends 25 July
Costs and Travel Logistics
Estimated Expenses
IMES invoices each school or seminary for the full cost of the Middle East Immersion program
(Tuition + Room & Board) which in turn bills students according to its established policies and
procedures. Additional costs are the responsibility of the individual student as they arise.
The following breakdown will help the student adequately prepare for his or her time in Lebanon.
But as a reminder, each academic institution has its own tuition costs associated with practicum
and practical ministry placements. Likely additional expenses include travel, meals, special events,
entertainment, beach trips, tourism and shopping. Some students choose to raise money through
their local church or support network to fund the trip.
Institutional Expenses: *
Item
MEI Tuition
MEC Fees
ALPS Fees4
Instruction Fees
Administration Fees
Field Education Fees5
ABTS Room & Board
Bed and Breakfast6
Meals – MEC
Airport To/From
Cost
$2210
$200
$425
$1085
$300
$200
$824
$640
$144
$40
Total
* Invoiced to the student’s institution which in turn bills the student
$3034
Additional Expenses: **
Item
Travel
Travel Costs within Lebanon7
Cost
$1800-2860
$120-$420
Priced at a beginner’s level group rate. Subject to change if private tutoring is required. Cost includes books.
Additional costs may apply for overnight stays and special meals. Budget accordingly.
6
Lunch and dinner are purchased as needed. Individual meal vouchers are available at ABTS reception.
7
Cost varies according to mode of transportation used. See Beirut Transportation Guide below.
4
5
Middle East Immersion | 13
Airfare to/from Lebanon8
Evacuation/Repatriation Insurance
Immunizations
Visa
Living Expenses
Lunch & Dinner9
Internet10
Optional & Miscellaneous Expenses
Cell phone11
Souvenirs
Additional travel
Snacks
$1500-1800
$170
$0-400
$35-70
$450-650
$6 Lunch - $6 Dinner / Meal
$0-$100
Total
**These costs are the individual responsibility of the student
$0-500
$2250-4000
Logistical Issues
Housing
The Institute of Middle East Studies provides brand new accommodation and facilities with quality,
professional and friendly service at the Arab Baptist Theological Seminary campus. All students
will be housed with a roommate in double occupancy rooms the week of the Middle East
Consultation. For the remaining four weeks, the choice of a single room is usually possible for an
additional cost.
Food
8
Airfare rates will of course vary dependent upon airline, date of travel, etc.
Experience shows that many meals will be eaten off campus or ordered in from local restaurants. Costs will vary.
10
Limited internet access is available free of charge in the ABTS Library or Computer Lab. Full internet access in
room is available for purchase at ABTS reception: $3/1 hour; $6/3 hours; $15/10 hours.
11
Purchasing a local/international SIM card is recommended.
9
Middle East Immersion | 14
Apart from the Middle East Consultation, during which students will be eating all meals with other
conference participants, students pay per meal on the ABTS campus or may eat elsewhere. The
basic rate for staying at ABTS during the entire 5 weeks includes daily breakfast. Special diets or
menus can be arranged by prior agreement.
The demands of the practicum placement and language study may often require students to
purchase meals outside ABTS or pack daily meals, as they will often be away from ABTS. This is
especially true with regard to lunch. Meal costs should be planned accordingly.
Transportation
Students are responsible for their own travel arrangements to and from Beirut, although it is
recommended to coordinate flights with fellow participants if possible. ABTS must be informed
of student’s travel itinerary so we can arrange airport pick-up.
Students are ultimately responsible for their own travel within Lebanon to and from their ministry
placement sites, language school, and the ABTS campus. ABTS is very willing to help arrange
travel for students, but it is the responsibility of the student to cover travel costs.
That being said, most previous Middle East Immersion students have preferred to take public
transportation and consider the process of figuring out the public transit system an integral part
of the immersion experience. For those interested in public transportation, the main road is a
10-15 minute walk from the ABTS campus. Unfortunately, wheelchair accessibility is extremely
limited. (See below for a Beirut transportation guide.)
Passport - Visa
A passport and visa are required for travel to Lebanon. Passports must remain valid for at least 6
months after your date of entry.
U.S. citizens staying no longer than 1 month (extendable up to 3 months) can obtain their visa
upon arrival in Lebanon ($35 fee, or $70 for multiple-entry visa). For longer stays, a visa must
be obtained in advance from the Lebanese Embassy or Consulate.
Note: All visa applicants holding an Israeli visa in their passport at the time of applying
for visa or arrival in Lebanon will NOT be granted a visa and/or be admitted to Lebanon.
Students who have an Israeli stamp on their passport need to apply for a new passport
well in advance.
Embassy of Lebanon: www.lebanonembassyus.org.
Immunizations and Medical
No special immunizations are required for travel to Lebanon.
Middle East Immersion | 15
Students are required to complete any necessary medical evaluations and/or forms for their
respective academic institutions prior to international travel, for example listing any existing
health needs, medical conditions, and allergies that should be taken into account in planning the
trip. It is the responsibility of the student to ensure they are adequately fit to participate in the
MEI program and IMES reserves the right to request a medical examination before travel.
It is strongly recommended that students have a current tetanus shot, update routine vaccinations
including measles/mumps/rubella (MMR) and diphtheria/pertussis/tetanus (DPT), and discuss your
travel plans with a health care provider.
Students may wish to consider the following recommended vaccinations:
The U.S. Center for Disease Control (CDC) recommends the following vaccines for travel
to the Middle East (www.cdc.gov/travel)





Hepatitis A. Transmission of hepatitis A virus can occur through direct person-to-person contact;
through exposure to contaminated water, ice, or shellfish harvested in contaminated water; or
from fruits, vegetables, or other foods that are contaminated and eaten uncooked.
Hepatitis B. Transmission may occur via exposure to blood or body fluids, or in medical treatment.
Malaria Information for Travelers to the Middle East. If you are traveling to a malaria-risk area in
this region, see your health care provider for a prescription anti-malarial drug.
Rabies. Pre-exposure vaccination recommended if you might have extensive unprotected outdoor
exposure in rural areas, including camping, hiking, bicycling, or engaging in certain occupational
activities.
Typhoid. Contraction occurs through contaminated drinking water or food, or by eating food or
drinking beverages that have been handled by a person who is infected (for example, street
vendors).
Flight
MEI participants are responsible for purchasing their own airfare tickets. Please carefully read
about and consider the safety of air carriers, as not all air carriers meet Western safety standards:
www.faa.gov/avr/iasa
It is recommended that students purchase a refundable ticket if possible. However, this increases
the price of the ticket. Distinctions between refundable tickets:



Fully refundable ticket costs are between $4,000-5,000. Everything will be returned and/or
rebooked with no additional fees.
There is a refundable ticket option that increases the price by $300 and guarantees
rebooking the flight if something happens.
Regular tickets will try to rebook, if needed by a travel agent. If trouble arises before
departing for Lebanon, the ticket can be reissued for a later date for a fee.
Middle East Immersion | 16
Risk
Students will be voluntarily assuming any dangers and risks involved with traveling to Lebanon.
IMES assumes no responsibility or liability, in whole or in part, for any sickness, disease, injuries
(including death), losses, damages, weather, strikes, acts of God, quarantine, civil unrest, criminal
activity, terrorism, accident, failure or negligence of any nature howsoever caused, which may be
experienced during travel to, from, in, at, or around Lebanon. Please carefully read notices issued
by the U.S. Department of State: www.travel.state.gov/
Students should thoroughly read and sign a Release from Liability.
Links
Consular Information Sheet: travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_948.html
General Information on Lebanon: www.lonelyplanet.com or www.tripprep.com
Embassy of Lebanon: www.lebanonembassyus.org
Required Travel Documents
The following documents are legally required by many institutions in order to travel
internationally. Electronic copies of the below documents must be emailed to
[email protected]. Also, hard copies of round-trip airline tickets, passports, and signed
Release from Liability forms must be submitted to students’ respective practicum/study abroad
coordinator.
 Copy of Roundtrip Airline Tickets
 Proof of payment
IMES invoices each school and/or seminary for the full cost of the Middle East Immersion
program (Tuition + Room & Board). Each institution then bills its students according to its
established policies and procedures and then wires the full amount to ABTS/IMES before
arrival in Lebanon.
 Signed Release from Liability
Since you have voluntarily chosen to participate in the MEI Lebanon program at this time,
IMES requires that you sign and date a Release from liability document. This form must be
dated and signed by you.
 Photocopy of Current Vaccination Record
Students are recommended to have a current tetanus shot/booster and get any immunizations
and prophylactics (such as malaria pills) recommended for travel to Lebanon. Consult the
Center for Disease Control website (www.cdc.gov) for a list of recommended immunizations
Middle East Immersion | 17
specific to country. Some vaccinations require multiple shots and may take over a month to
complete.
 Photocopy of your Student Medical Insurance Card
During the quarter in which a student registers for MEI, s/he must continue to meet the
minimum student health insurance requirements set by her or his academic institution for
medical insurance, or by meeting the standard requirements to waive coverage.
 Proof of Medical Evacuation/Repatriation Insurance
Located within Lebanon, IMES doesn’t require Evacuation/Repatriation insurance. Most
institutions, however, require students traveling internationally to purchase medical,
evacuation and repatriation insurance. Many previous MEI Lebanon students have purchased
through HTH Worldwide, but there are other companies with approved comparable
coverage. Insurance can be purchased through HTH Worldwide at
https://www.hthstudents.com/ge.cfm?ac=GHE-16248.
 Photocopies of passport and any required visa(s)
Passport must be valid for at least 6 months after date of entry. In addition, passports must
contain no evidence of travel to Israel, or Lebanon will deny entry.
Student Life
What to Expect in Lebanon: One Student to Another
Written by Alethia White, 2007 MEI Lebanon student (Fuller Theological Seminary)
Personal Preparation
Living and studying in another country offers a particular set of challenges and rewards.
Understanding oneself more deeply may require a potentially intense process of spiritual and
interpersonal growth. MEI Lebanon presents a wonderful opportunity to explore issues related
to religion, language, culture and mission in a dynamic part of the world.
Students participating in MEI Lebanon should be prepared for the challenges of experiencing a
new culture in an environment often characterized by political, social and religious instability.
Thus, you are encouraged to spend some time reflecting on how you normally react to stress
and what kinds of activities help you de-stress. Some practical examples may include: journaling,
exercise, preparing your favorite foods, or taking a break from studies for games. Given that you
will be away from your normal resources, a certain amount of creativity is needed in order to
make use of the resources that are available while in Lebanon.
Middle East Immersion | 18
It is also essential to spend time communicating with God. The pace of the practicum may make
it seem difficult to spend time in prayer, but it is highly recommended that you create this space
in an intentional and creative manner. While in Lebanon there will be regular opportunities to go
to church; additionally, ABTS holds a daily morning chapel from Monday through Friday that you
are encouraged to attend for both spiritual and cultural benefit.
The following list of news sources and books are recommended as you prepare for Lebanon.
Watch - Listen
www.english.aljazeera.net
One of the largest news sources in Arabic has an English site and has stories not often found in
the American news media that reflect the atmosphere of the Middle East more accurately.
www.bbc.co.uk
The BBC is often less biased than news media in the States and offers helpful resources such as
country profiles and history from which students can do research about Lebanon.
http://www.independent.co.uk/fisk
Robert Fisk has been a journalist in Lebanon and the Middle East for about 30 years and still has
his home in Beirut where he lived throughout the 1975-90 civil war. Although often bleak in tone,
his realistic perspective is one shared by many and he is up-to-date regarding “on the ground”
occurrences in Lebanon as well as the dynamics between political/religious parties.
http://www.dailystar.com.lb or http://www.naharnet.com
News sources from Lebanon
Read12
Chapman, Colin. Islam and the West: Conflict, Co-Existence or Conversion? Carlisle, UK:
Paternoster Press, 1998.
Examines the history between Muslims and Christians and offers insight into the conflicts that have
emerged as a result of political and missionary endeavors.
Chapman, Colin. Cross and Crescent: Responding to the Challenges of Islam. Downers Grove, IL:
InterVarsity Press, 2003.
12
This is a list of recommended reading suggestions. A required reading list will be available upon registration.
There may, however, be crossover.
Middle East Immersion | 19
Provides an overview of Islam’s tenants as they compare to Christianity, a history of the
controversies that have shaped Muslim-Christian relations, and suggestions for Muslim-Christian
dialogue.
Chandler, Paul-Gordon. Pilgrims of Christ on the Muslim Road: Exploring a New Path between Two
Faiths. Rowman & Littlefield, 2008.
A truly fascinating as well as illuminating biography of self-described ‘Sufi follower of Christ’,
Mazhar Mallouhi.
Chapman, Colin. Whose Promised Land? The Continuing Crisis over Israel and Palestine. Grand
Rapids, MI, 2003.
A compilation of direct quotes from key figures involved in the creation of the state of Israel, as well
as key political, religious and academic voices; a unique resource for understanding Israel-Palestine.
Mackey, Sandra. Lebanon: A House Divided. New York: WW Norton and Co., 2006.
Delivers a poignant account of the Civil War in Lebanon, detailing the involvement of religious sects
and political figures. Offers insight into the complex and diverse world of Lebanese social and
religious dynamics that have shaped and continue to shape Lebanon today.
Musk, Bill. Touching the Soul of Islam. Oxford: Monarch Books, 2004
Addresses different dynamics in Western and Arab worldviews and discusses how to talk about and
do ministry in an Arab cultural context; aimed at those familiar with a Western culture or
worldview.
Arab Culture
Arab culture carries a rich and layered dynamic that may take Westerners quite some time to
figure out. There are several authors who provide good insight into the intricacies of Arab culture
(look for author Bill Musk under “Recommended Readings”). As with any cross-cultural
experience there will likely be points of fascination and points of contention. Successful
experiences will require patience, consideration and self-awareness on the part of the student as
appropriate behaviors and interactions are learned. Humility is a key factor when in a new
situation or unfamiliar culture. Beirut is particularly fascinating, in that it often appears quite
Western in many ways. However, Arab culture often runs very deep underneath Western
appearances. Do not be afraid to ask respectful questions of those around you when it comes to
behavior, beliefs, or social dynamics that seem unfamiliar.
History & Politics
Middle East Immersion | 20
The political situation in Lebanon is currently undergoing extreme stress and dealing with calls
for change. In fact, constant unrest has been part of the Lebanese reality throughout its history.
Lebanon’s history is a key factor in understanding current events.
In the months prior to your departure, it is wise to keep up with current events and changing
dynamics as much as possible pertaining both to Lebanon and the Middle East as a whole.
As you enter Lebanon, it is particularly important to be aware of the importance of history for
Lebanese people. In Arab culture history continues to play itself out, no matter how long ago
certain events may have occurred (thus the necessity of reading as much as possible about
Lebanon prior to your arrival). By reading and learning as much as possible about the worldview
and history of Lebanese people, you will better understand the culture in which you will be living
and the complex dynamics of the Middle East.
Social Life
Arab culture is a very social one, and it is likely that you will spend a lot of time with new friends
or people within their network through both your work and study. Unlike Western culture in
which people tend to schedule time with friends in advance, Middle Eastern peoples tend to invite
others over at what may seem like the last minute or with little prior notice. Given the nature of
the program, there is usually plenty of time to accept such invitations! While socializing is a
pleasure to some, it may be draining for others. Make sure you take time alone to re-charge
when possible.
Communication
Many people in Beirut speak two or even three languages; thus it is not too difficult to find
someone who speaks your language. English is spoken between students and with those at ABTS.
Nevertheless, learning to communicate in Arabic is a key component of the Lebanon Practicum.
Learning to communicate with those around you both pushes you out of your comfort zone,
encouraging relationships with those in your organization or ministry placement who are not
fluent English speakers.
Gender
Although Western women will most likely find it easier to move about and communicate in parts
of Lebanon than in other Arab countries, Lebanese culture is traditionally patriarchal. Female
students should be aware of this culture, particularly those who are accustomed to a certain
amount of individual freedoms. When traveling around the city and country it may be helpful for
male students to accompany female students when possible. Male students may find they need to
be more aware of gender dynamics than usual, attentive to fellow female students, and sensitive
to learning proper interactions with Muslim women.
Middle East Immersion | 21
Both male and female single students should be extremely careful about becoming emotionally
involved with a local person during this short period. Cross-cultural travelers may find themselves
easily overwhelmed and attracted by what seems new or “exotic.” You will need to be particularly
aware of such emotions within yourself and make it a point to share this awareness with fellow
students and your professor.
Married Couples
It is recommended that married couples make extra efforts to spend time with each other outside
the company of others. As your relationship will likely encounter new dynamics, it is particularly
important that you have time to discuss and debrief these with each other. When coupled with
possible regional instability, couples may find new fears or tensions arising that need to be
addressed and communicated well.
Health
Although there is little chance of disease in Lebanon, it is important to drink filtered water and
to wash fresh produce well before eating. Keep in mind that it may take some time to adjust to
new foods and meal times; you may want to bring some medicine for upset stomachs with you.
The summers in Beirut can be very hot and humid, so it is important to bring your own water
bottle with you throughout the day.
For those who are used to regular exercise, there are opportunities for walks and for occasional
hikes; however, it may be more difficult for women to maintain normal fitness habits although
taking walks around ABTS is not a problem. Lastly, adequate sleep is extremely important as you
adjust to daily activities, classes, socializing and possible stress.
LSESD Welcome to Lebanon Guide
Prepared by the Lebanese Society for Educational and Social Development (LSESD), 2011
Getting to Lebanon
Visas: Visitors from North America and Western Europe can obtain their visas on arrival at
Beirut International Airport or any other port of entry at the Lebanese border, providing
passport holders do not possess an Israeli stamp, and they hold return or onward tickets.
The cost of visas is subject to change. Upon arrival, the security officers will want to know
where you are staying. You will most probably be given a form to fill out before landing.
Passports: Passports valid for six months are required by all (except nationals of the Syrian
Arab Republic) arriving from their country with a valid national ID.
Middle East Immersion | 22
Restricted entry: Entry visas are not provided by the Government of Lebanon to holders of
Israeli and Palestinian passports, holders of passports containing a visa for Israel valid or
expired, used or unused, and passports with entry stamps to Israel. Security at entry points will
check every page of your passport for these stamps.
Air Travel: The national airline is Middle East Airlines (MEA) which operates direct flights from
London to Beirut. Other airlines such as Air France, Lufthansa, BD, and KLM also operate
direct flights to Beirut.
International airports: Beirut’s (BEY) Rafic Hariri International Airport (Khaldeh) is 8km (5
miles) south of the city (travel time: 20-30 minutes). A bus service operates to the city center
(0600-2000) leaving every 30 minutes. Taxis are also available. Airport facilities include a
tourist information desk, duty free shops, post office, restaurants, bars, hotel reservations and
bank/currency ex-change.
Useful Information
Clothing: There are no specific cultural rules regarding clothing, and you will see a wide variety
of styles from women wearing long coats or skirts and head coverings to mini-skirts and
skimpy tops - especially in Beirut. Outside Beirut, the standards tend to be more conservative,
and it is best to dress modestly/conservatively at all times and everywhere. Avoid shorts and
sleeveless tops, although short sleeves are acceptable.
To visit religious places, modest clothing is essential. Women need headscarves when visiting
mosques.
Drinking Water: It is not recommended to drink tap water, unless you are certain of its
cleanliness. Bottled water is readily available.
Health: Lebanon offers a high standard of medical care. Hospitals, clinics, and well-supplied
pharmacies can be found in all towns. No particular vaccinations are required to visit the
country.
Language: In addition to their native Arabic dialect, the average Lebanese is often fluent in
English or French. Many well-educated Lebanese are tri-lingual.
Traffic: There is no way to explain Lebanese traffic, except perhaps to say it is organized chaos.
You’ll see people walking on the street and cars parked on the sidewalk. You’ll see three-lane
streets filled with four lanes of cars and even more motor scooters. When crossing the street,
wait for the right moment and then walk out into the traffic. Recently installed traffic lights have
brought some order to the roads. Surprisingly, most drivers follow them even in the absence of
police officers.
Middle East Immersion | 23
Money: The official currency is the Lebanese Pound; however, the US dollar is legal tender and
is used interchangeably with the Lebanese Pound. The exchange rate is $1 USD = LL 1,500.
Credit cards: Many shops, hotels, restaurants, bars, etc. accept international payment cards
such as Visa or American Express.
Automatic bank machines: ATMs are readily available at most banks throughout the country.
Withdrawals can be made in either Lebanese pounds or US dollars. However, it is wise to keep
a reasonable amount of cash with you. Frequent power outages outside of Beirut could limit
your use of ATMs. Traveler’s Checks cannot be cashed in Lebanon.
History & Politics
Lebanon's long and often turbulent history reaches back
to the dawn of civilization. Its earliest settlers were the
Phoenicians who came from the Arabian Peninsula
around 3,500 BC. They established cities at Beirut,
Byblos, Tyre, Sidon, and Baalbek. Some modern
Lebanese consider themselves Phoenician, (but many
also consider this the result of modern-era identity
politics.)
After a succession of different rulers, Lebanon became part of the Roman Empire in 64 BC
when Pompey the Great conquered the territory and governed it as part of the province of
Syria. You can see some amazing Roman ruins at Baalbek, Tyre, and elsewhere.
In the 7th century, the Christian sect that was later to become the Maronite church settled in
the northern districts of the Lebanese Mountains to avoid conversion to Islam. The Arabs,
inspired by the teachings of the Prophet Mohammed, had converted most of the region to
Islam. The geographical inaccessibility that made Lebanon attractive as a religious refuge also
appealed to Muslims; the Shi’ites found a haven there during the 9th century and the Druze in
the 11th century. Maronites, Druze, and Shi’ites, as well as the Sunni Muslims, all play a
significant role in Lebanon today.
The Turks took control of the area in the 16th century during the major expansion of the
Ottoman Empire and governed through various local leaders until the end of World War I.
There was a major influx of Armenians into Lebanon following the Turkish massacres of
Armenians in the early 20th Century. They have maintained a distinct cultural identity while
becoming active members of Lebanese society.
With the dissolution of the Ottoman Empire at the end of WWI, the French were granted a
League of Nations mandate to administer Lebanon until independence in 1943. The various
ethnic and religious communities cohabited in relative peace (though intermittent violence was
Middle East Immersion | 24
also a frequent occurrence), with political power divided principally between Christians, Shi’ite
and Sunni Muslims.
During this time, Lebanon developed a thriving economy based on providing business services –
banking and finance, transport and trade facilities – for other countries in the region. During
this period, Beirut was known as the Paris of the Middle East, while the country as a whole was
referred to as the Switzerland of the Middle East because of its banking industry.
This situation prevailed until the 1970s when a combination of regional and domestic factors
upset the fragile political balance in Lebanon and contributed to the Lebanese civil war which
lasted from 1975 until 1990.
Following the civil war, a series of Syrian dominated governments began the process of
rebuilding the shattered infrastructure. The Syrian military withdrew from Lebanon in
2005 following a series of demonstrations and popular civic action triggered by the assassination
of former Lebanese Prime Minister Rafik Hariri on February 14, 2005.
It is if supreme importance for Western Christians to understand that the issue of the state of
Israel is extremely sensitive and more complex than many have been led to believe. One may
meet Palestinian believers who were forced to flee their homes in 1948 and have lived as
stateless refugees ever since. One may also meet Muslims who reject Christianity because of
the perceived anti-Arab bias of well-known Western Evangelicals. Westerners are advised to
listen carefully with regard to this subject, and to exercise discretion and empathy in expressing
opinions and asking questions.
Geography
Lebanon lies to the east of the Mediterranean, sharing borders to the north and east with the
Syrian Arab Republic, and to the south with Israel/Palestinian Territory.
It is a small, mountainous country only 210 km (130.5 miles) long. There are two major
mountain ranges — the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon mountains — the rich and fertile Bakaa
Valley, and a narrow coastal plain all contained in Lebanon’s 10,452 square km (4035 sq. miles).
Approximately half of the country lies at an altitude of over 900m (3000ft).
The famous cedar trees grow high in the mountains, while the lower slopes bear grapes,
apricots, plums, peaches, figs, olives, and barley, often on terraces painstakingly cut out of the
mountainsides. On the coastal plain, citrus fruit, bananas, and vegetables are cultivated, with
radishes and beans grown in tiny patches.
Climate
Lebanon has a Mediterranean climate. That means hot and humid in the summer and cold and
wet in the winter. The Arabic word for winter is the same as the word for rain… that should
Middle East Immersion | 25
tell you something. However, Lebanon does get 300 days of sunshine a year. Coastal
temperatures rarely fall below 15°C (59°F) during the rainy winter, and may reach 31°C (87°F)
on average during the humid summer. This applies also to the region of the Beqaa valley.
At higher altitudes, the air becomes drier and fresher. Major snowfalls allow skiing during the
months of December until April. The intermediate seasons, spring and fall, vary between one
and two months, and the average temperature is usually 21°C. Although the winter
temperatures may be warmer than many guests are used to, Lebanese buildings are often not
insulated or heated to Western standards. If you are visiting during the winter, it is a good idea
to bring warm clothes.
Historical Attractions
Baalbek, Lebanon's greatest Roman treasure, can be counted among the wonders of the ancient
world and includes some of the best preserved temples in existence today.
The ruins at Aanjar date from the Umayyads, the first hereditary dynasty of Islam which ruled
from Damascus in the first century after the Prophet Mohammed, from 660 to 750 A.D. They
are credited with great Arab conquests that created an Islamic empire stretching from the
Indus Valley to southern France.
The Beiteddine palace complex, Lebanon’s best example of early19th century Lebanese
architecture, was built over a thirty-year period by Emir Bechir El-Chehab, who ruled MountLebanon for more than half a century.
Byblos, located in Jbeil, is said to be the oldest inhabited city in the world, and the source of the
first Phoenician letters that gave us the alphabet. It was the major seaport of the East
Mediterranean during the 3rd millennium BC. About 7000 years ago a small fishing community
settled there. Four places of interest to visit in Byblos are the Crusader Castle, the Egyptian
temples dating back to the 4th millennium, the Phoenician royal necropolis, and the Roman
amphitheater.
Things to See and Do

Take a day trip to the Beqaa valley. Visit Baalbek
and then drive south to Zahle for lunch in the
Wadi; spend the day at the Aanjar ruins and have
a fish dinner at a local restaurant; get a sense of
local village life at Restaurant Shams.

Take a day trip north. See Byblos, have lunch, and
then drive northeast to see the Cedars of
Lebanon.
Middle East Immersion | 26

For attractions in Beirut there are many options. Downtown Beirut offers a variety of
cafes and restaurants. Saturday mornings boast the Souq el Tayyeb organic foods market
and the Saifi Village. Bourj Hammoud is a lower middle class suburb with local shops and
offers a great taste of local Beirut life. One may also visit the National Museum and AUB
Archaeological Museum to see a collection of ancient artifacts. The AUB campus is also
a must-see.
Mobile Phones
Mobiles phones in Lebanon for the most part operate on a pay-as-you-go recharge system
wherein once you purchase a SIM card you pay a certain amount of money (usually monthly)
for a recharge card, available in many locations. It may be worth looking into having a phone
during your stay in Lebanon or perhaps sharing a phone with your fellow students. For more
details on this, ask the ABTS reception desk and they will be sure to answer your questions or
point you where you need to go.
Beirut Transportation Guide
Written by Adam Estle, 2008 MEI student (Fuller Theological Seminary)
Introduction to Beirut
There are a variety of ways to get around Beirut. The basic question that one must ask is: How
much money am I willing to spend to get around town? There are three main forms of public
transportation, as well as some other non-public options:





Taxi
Service
Bus
Rides from friends
Rides from ABTS staff
Before discussing each of these modes of transportation, we must first mention the Lebanese
‘address system’. In short, there is no address system like in the U.S., although there are post
office boxes for mail purposes. For example, the actual address for ABTS is ‘Arab Baptist
Theological Seminary, Mansourieh, Maten, Lebanon’. That would be like saying ‘Fuller Theological
Seminary, Pasadena, California, USA’! Some places have slightly more specific addresses, including
at least the name of a street or the location in relation to a well-known landmark. This can be a
potentially
frustrating
system,
especially
at
the
beginning
of
the
trip.
Most in Lebanon are very helpful with directions. It’s almost like the people know that their way
of labeling addresses is horrible for newcomers, and so they feel sorry for you and therefore are
Middle East Immersion | 27
willing to give directions. Several times on our trip, we asked someone for directions when the
building in question was within 100 yards of where we were standing!
Taxi
If you have an unlimited budget, then you will have a very easy time getting around the city! Just
hail a taxi (or really just wait for the taxi to honk at you and then get in when it stops!) and tell
him (the drivers are all males) where you want to go. If you suspect the legitimacy of the taxi,
check for a red license plate. These are only issued to public transportation vehicles by the
Lebanese government. So, hypothetically, they should be safe to get in.
There are advantages and disadvantages to this form of transportation. One advantage is that it
will drastically reduce the amount of walking you have to do (which could also be seen as a
disadvantage if you’re trying to get lots of exercise). There are a plethora of taxis in almost every
part of town, so it is not difficult to find one. (Usually, they will find you…whether or not you
want their services!) Some other advantages of taxis are that they are great when you’re in a
hurry or need to go somewhere that is unavailable via bus lines.
Another advantage of taxis is that they run almost all hours of the night. If you are out and about
in the city after dark, then you can count on having to take a taxi (or some other non-public way)
home. Plan accordingly! On our trip, our language classes normally ended at 5:00pm. We knew
that if we hung around in Hamra for too long, then we would miss the last bus up the hill to
Mansourieh and would have to take a taxi.
The major disadvantage of using this model of transportation is the price. However, this can also
be offset if there are a few people sharing the taxi. Paying 20,000LL (about $13.00) is much more
manageable when the cost is split between three or four (or five!) people. In fact, a taxi ride can
actually be cheaper than the bus if you are with a number of people and would have to ride a few
different bus lines.
Another disadvantage is that riding in the taxi does not allow for mingling with Beirutis. This
should be one of the aims of the practicum experience, but riding a taxi everywhere can cause
you to be isolated from the realities of Beirut. This is particularly important since living in
Mansourieh at ABTS may cause you to feel a bit removed from city life.
When travelling alone, you may feel safer in a bus where there are more people around. Others
feel safer in a taxi, away from the crowds. This is a matter of individual preference.
Be sure to agree upon a price before getting into the taxi. Our group experienced a number of
occasions when the driver tried to take advantage of us as we were driving to our destination by
raising the price from what was previously agreed upon. Don’t let them do this! Be polite but
firm. If the destination turns out to be further away than they thought it was, tough for them!
Middle East Immersion | 28
Beirut is not a big city as far as size is concerned (from an American perspective), but there are
a lot of places crammed into this metropolitan area. Don’t expect your driver to recognize the
exact location of your destination. You may have to tell him an area of town and then point from
there. Many of the drivers speak English, and it is helpful if you know the name of your destination
(and some nearby better-known places) in French or Arabic.
Trust Taxi Phone:
 01 / 613573
 01 / 613398
 03 / 601806
 04 / 532531
Loyalty Taxi Phone:
 04 / 530446
 03 / 380500
There are many different taxi companies in Beirut, but the most
trusted ones (according to the ABTS staff) are Trust Taxi and Loyalty
Taxi. They will usually give good deals for traveling around town.
You can go pretty much anywhere in town for the equivalent of $14
or less. Also, if you know you need a taxi at a specific time (especially
if you’re leaving ABTS where taxis don’t drive by on a regular basis)
it is a good idea to call the taxi company (or have the reception at
ABTS call for you) in advance. We’ve observed that this is a good
habit, because you can also find out the price beforehand and not
have to worry about haggling when the taxi shows up.
You may find that taxi drivers can be quite persistent. To signal that you are not interested, show
them the palm of your right hand. This is the “no” signal in Lebanon. Holding your arm out to
the side signals that you want them to stop for you. In summary, taxis are by far the most
convenient form of public transportation; however, are also the most expensive.
Service
A French word that rhymes with “peace”
This is basically a cross between a taxi and a bus. Some service vehicles are cars and some are
small vans. They are usually marked “TAXI”, but one thing to look for is the red license plate
that is only given to public transit vehicles. Service is a taxi for multiple riders and multiple
destinations. The driver only picks up additional riders if they are going in the same general
direction as the other riders already on board. It can sometimes be very tricky to find a service
that will take you where you want to go, so this can be one frustrating thing about this form of
transportation.
Also, service is generally used for short distances; not, for example, from Mansourieh to
downtown or Hamra. You will probably only find service in the more crowded areas of town
near the seafront. Honestly, I only took service one or two times while in Beirut. If we needed
to go short distances, we just walked. As I’ve mentioned, the city is not that big and you can walk
a lot of different places. Just be sure you don’t overextend yourself through walking (like we did
a few times!).
The cost of service is also between what you’d pay for a taxi or a bus. It currently costs 2000LL
to take the service. Don’t let the driver take advantage of you by charging you more than this.
Middle East Immersion | 29
(This happened to us once at the beginning of our trip…we were each charged 4000LL.) It is a
good idea to not pay the driver until he drops you off where you want to go.
Buses
Buses have been our main mode of public transportation, primarily because they are the most
cost effective option. A bus ride typically costs between 1000LL - 1500LL ($.67 - $1).
If you are planning to ride the buses, the first thing you need to do is to get an updated route
map from the LCC (Lebanese Commuting Company). We got ours from the office people at
ALPS (language school). Make sure you get a color copy or you will be really confused! Even if
the map you find is not 100% current, it will still prove very useful. If you are used to riding a bus
in a Western country, the Lebanese system may be a little different for you! The major differences
are: there is no set time schedule, and there are no set bus stops. Even the routes change from
time to time. So, this is definitely the most adventurous way to get around town!
What ARE (pretty much) set in stone are the major
route intersections. These are usually (but not always)
at the major roundabouts throughout town.
The same hand signals explained above in the taxi
section work for buses as well, although they will rarely
hound you like a taxi.
Don’t be surprised to see and experience strange
things on the bus, like people smoking (which is pretty
common most everywhere) in clear view of the ‘no
smoking’ signs. Another funny thing is how the LCC
drivers have an ongoing feud with the drivers of the
‘other’ buses. You may also experience your driver
deciding to stop the bus to either buy cigarettes or
afternoon coffee, or to talk to a friend! That’s
Lebanon!
The most important thing to know about the buses is
that the number 7 bus is your link between Beirut and
Mansourieh. No other bus line will take you to/from
Mansourieh. Also, the main route intersections for the
number 7 line are: Mkalles and Barbir. If you can get to
either of these places (Mkalles is preferable), then you
should be able to find the number 7 bus.
From ABTS (Mansourieh) to Hamra:

Walk to the Mansourieh Main road.

Take the number 7 bus until it gets to
Barbir. Wait until the bus reaches the
end of the line.

You will need to cross the main road
and go toward the ramp for the road
going west. Then, take the number 4
bus to Hamra.
From Hamra to ABTS (Mansourieh):

Your best option is to take bus number
4 to Barbir.

At Barbir, go to the eastern area
(where the bridge ends) and find the
number 7 bus (just west of where you
get the airport bus).

Get off the bus on the main
Mansourieh road at the same place
where you get on the 7 in the morning.
Then enjoy the walk back to ABTS!
No matter where you’re going in Beirut, the process for catching the number 7 bus is the same,
so I’ll explain it in detail here. You have to walk from the school toward the ‘main’ Mansourieh
Middle East Immersion | 30
road. This is not the road that runs by KFC or the Pizza Hut delivery restaurant right before you
turn off to get to ABTS. You must cross this road and go up the steep hill.
Go down the hill as you come out of ABTS and follow the road to the right until you are forced
to go up the hill to the left. At the top of this hill, you will cross the ‘secondary’ or ‘outer’
Mansourieh road (with the KFC and the Pizza Hut) and go up another hill. You walk on this small
road until you get to the ‘main’ road, which will go around a bend when you reach it. You must
cross this road and then find a spot where you think the bus can see you.
(In other words, there are two roads leading into Mansourieh. Where the road forks, the fastest
way to ABTS is to the right. Unfortunately the bus goes left, adding to your daily walk!)
There are a few different kinds of buses. The majority of buses we saw were run by the Lebanese
Commuting Company (LCC). These were probably the most efficient and trustworthy. They ran
often enough that they weren’t usually jam-packed with people. There are also larger buses that
run on either the same routes as the LCC busses, or on different routes not served by the LCC.
These buses are usually in less of a hurry to get anywhere and like to cram as many people as
possible on board. The third type of bus is the smaller 15 passenger van. These can be more
convenient because they go a little faster than the larger busses. They can also be less
comfortable, however, because you are so crammed together. If you are claustrophobic, think
twice about getting on one of these vans. Be mindful of where you are sitting in these vans, as
you may be in a spot where you have to exit and re-enter many times to allow people off at their
stops. Which bus should you ride? In my opinion, whichever one shows up first!
One tricky thing about riding the bus is that there are different times to pay. Sometimes, you get
on the bus and the driver motions for you to be seated. Those buses are the ones in which you
pay as you exit. Most of the larger buses (especially LCC ones), however, require payment as you
enter. You are then given a small ticket that may or may not be checked at some point on your
ride by an attendant. On the smaller vans, you always pay at your desired stop (unless you need
change, then you pay shortly before arriving at your destination).
A major disadvantage of the system is that it is very difficult to plan exactly how long your
commute will be due to lack of a time schedule. Some days we waited up to 45 minutes for our
first morning bus, while other times the bus pulled up right when we arrived! Thankfully, Lebanon
is less time-conscious than America, and people are very understanding of the realities of riding
the bus. This forced flexibility was a really good lesson for us task-oriented Westerners.
One fun thing about riding the bus is that you feel like you can identify with the ‘common’
Lebanese person. You are pretty much forced to at least use a little bit of Arabic (For example:
“amul maroof” for “stop, please”, “hone” [like the English “bone”] for “here”, and “shookran” for
“thank you”). We also had many conversations with people on the buses that would never have
been able to happen had we taken taxis everywhere.
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Another fun thing that resulted from riding the bus was that we were able to shatter the
conceptions of many Lebanese who assume that all Westerners are wealthy. There were MANY
times that we would ask someone how to get somewhere, and they just assumed that we would
take a taxi. I think it was stretching for people to hear that three Westerners were riding the
bus.
Rides from Friends
This one is self-explanatory! If you know someone with a car, riding with them can be a nice
break from having to pay every time you go somewhere. This was especially helpful to us on
Sunday mornings. We got lots of rides to church from friends, which was very nice. However, if
you rely on this all the time, you’ll miss out on some of the experiences that can be gained from
using public transportation.
Rides from ABTS Staff
We got around town a few times with rides from ABTS staff members. A couple of times staff
members saw us waiting for the bus and gave us a ride (at least as far as we were commonly
going). So that was a nice treat, and free!
Other times when this is a useful mode of transportation is for rides to/from the airport. This
can be quite expensive, but staff members are very helpful with airport transportation. A staff
person may charge you a little more than a taxi, but just remember that they are not ‘getting
paid’ for the ride back to Mansourieh. It took us a while to realize this!
We also got a ride from an ABTS student one Saturday to do some sightseeing. That was nice
because we knew that we could trust her not to rip us off. So, that could be another option.
Otherwise travelling around the country (which we are admittedly NOT very experienced in)
requires either hiring a taxi or going on a tour.
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