History Visit Luxury and poverty Lustre lost Information History Visit Luxury and poverty Lustre lost Information L L History Visit Luxury and poverty Lustre lost Information L History Visit Luxury and poverty Lustre lost Information L English Luxury and poverty... In search of lost lustre Cadillac chateau Dogleg staircase: a staircase with straight flights built around a central wall. Enfilade: a suite of aligned rooms running between the longitudinal walls of a building. French-style fireplace: monumental fireplace with prominent mantel and richly-decorated straight chimney hood with painted or sculpted central design. Italian-style ceiling: wooden ceiling with compartments framing painted scenes. Malice: a small, concealed fountain which came to life when someone passed by. Moresque: marquetry design with a floral pattern. Peer: one of the twelve men of high rank who assisted the King at his coronation and in his government. Suspended spiral staircase: helical staircase with steps supported by the wall and rising around a central void. A fabulously rich ducal chateau Research and restoration A dual heritage Cadillac, whose riches so impressed the Duke d’Épernon’s contemporaries, illustrated the excessive nature of its owner, as described by an English visitor in 1634: “... the monument is truly magnificent. It has 60 bedchambers, arranged in very regal fashion. There are 20 fireplaces, embellished with various marbles and each one different, which decorate the bedchambers. […]The walls are covered in gold and silk tapestries which are worth more than their weight in gold. But these are marvels that are presented to me to admire, and not to list.” Recent university research has enabled the identification of the use and furnishings of the rooms, based on an inventory drawn up in 1652. The chateau’s scientific plan is led by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux to return the interiors to their former glory, via acquisitions and the reorganisation of its collections. Recent restoration of the interior structure and décor retained the most significant prison fittings: doors, peepholes, grilles and individual cells in the attics known as “chicken cages”. Practical information Average length of visit: 1 hour Guided tours in French Adapted tours available for disabled visitors. Bookshop-giftshop A guide book to this monument is available in the “ Itinéraires ” collection, on sale in the bookshop-giftshop. Centre des monuments nationaux Château de Cadillac 33410 Cadillac-sur-Garonne tél. 05 56 62 69 58 fax 05 56 62 60 73 www.monuments-nationaux.fr crédit photo RMN. conception Plein Sens, Anders. réalisation Marie-Hélène Forestier. traduction ADT international. impression Stipa, octobre 2015. Glossary Characteristics of the ducal collections A hundred years as a prison In the 19th century, this magnificent building housed a population of “fallen girls”, the repression of whom proved to be absolute, in a world of imposed silence, of obsession with order and of exemplary chastisement. Cadillac once again became a place of excess, holding the record for prison mortality and for the worst treatment of prisoners in France. This scandalously harsh regime came to an end with the creation by the prison chaplain, Father Jean-Joseph Lataste, of the Order of the Sisters of Bethany in 1866, opening the doors to religious life for prisoners who had completed their sentence. The Dukes of Épernon, who witnessed and often even participated in the greatest events of their time, acquired for the chateau a collection of paintings and tapestries that were highly representative of their rank and period. Often used to decorate fireplace frames or specific rooms (the Cabinet Doré, the Kings’ and Queens’ cabinet), portraits, historical or allegorical scenes highlighted their grandeur. The collections of ducal tapestries remained famous for being so numerous and for their quality until most of them were destroyed during the Revolution. The ducal chateau The Duke of Épernon, early 17th century Jean-Louis Nogaret de La Valette (1554-1642), first Duke of Épernon, experienced a dazzling rise in social rank. A Cadet de Gascogne, he became a favourite of King Henri III and accumulated lucrative posts, being made a Duke and Peer* of France, Colonel General of the Infantry and a governor of several provinces. Henri IV made every effort to sideline this powerful man, and encouraged him to build a chateau worthy of his rank far from the capital. Épernon, an opponent of Richelieu, died in disgrace. His son Bernard, second Duke of that name, completed the building work and died without issue. The chateau passed to distant, indirect relatives, the Preissac family, who restored and updated it before abandoning it to plunder during the Revolution. The prison chateau The chateau was acquired by the state and became a women’s prison in 1818, then closed in 1890, when the building became a remand centre for girls until 1952. Since then, the chateau has undergone a series of restoration programmes. The current revision of the furnishings will enable the décor to fully reflect its dual past. *Explanations overleaf. History Visit Luxury and poverty Lustre lost Information L 19 1 The main courtyard. Only the main building, constructed between 1599 and 1610, and the beginning of the wings, give an idea of the ducal chateau’s original architecture archichiture, considerably extended. The wings, lower than the main building, and the entrance pavilion, built in the 19th century to meet the needs of the prison authorities, close off the courtyard where inmates took their daily exercise. The ground floor The plan of the main building, with its enfilades* of aligned rooms, grouped into apartments and spread along both sides of a central staircase, is typical of grand residences of the early 17th century. Each apartment consists of a room used as a reception room and vestibule, an antechamber with more refined décor to receive important guests, and finally a bedchamber, sometimes extending into a dressing room or a cabinet. 2 The grand staircase, a dogleg staircase* leads to the Royal and Ducal apartments. The Duke’s apartment These rooms were used as a chapel, a sacristy and a small refectory for the nuns during the building’s time as a prison. 3 The reception chamber has retained its fireplace of polychrome marble and gilt stucco, but its rich varnished floors and painted décor were destroyed in the 1928 fire. 4 The antechamber has the oldest fireplace in the chateau. The 18th century walnut armoire stands by a 17th century tapestry. 5 In the Duke’s chamber is a bed with twisted columns. The original Moresque* panelled ceiling is painted with coffers in trompe l’œil that we can also see on the lower panelling. The oratory next door also retains its original ceiling. Ground floor First floor Basements 18 14 8 N 9 7 6 3 2 13 12 10 11 15 4 5 N 16 17 N 1 The Duchess’ apartment All of these rooms were used as the prison infirmary in the 19th century. This apartment has retained its painted ceilings and its monumental French-style fireplaces* . 6 The reception chamber presents four tapestries telling the story of Psyche, woven in Paris in the 17th century, and a portrait of Bernard, second Duke of Épernon, inside the frame of the fireplace hood. 7 The first antechamber, with its rare painted ceilings depicting baskets of fruit and flowers on a white background, houses three 16th century tapestries on the theme of the Old Testament, identical to those owned by the Duke of Épernon, and a portrait of Anne-Marie-Louise d’Orléans, known as “La Grande Mademoiselle”, a relation of the d’Épernon family. 8 In the second antechamber, the only remaining element of its original décor is the painted ceiling. The current fireplace dates from the late 18th century, as does the golden cabinet with a wooden mantle. 9 The “cabinet doré”, or golden cabinet, a small room with refined décor, owes its name to the walls which were formerly decorated with golden panelling on which paintings were hung. This arrangement, which disappeared in the 18th century, is today evoked by portraits of Henri IV, Marie de Medici and Anne of Austria. It has retained its remarkable Italian-style ceiling* which illustrates the richness of the original décor. The first floor These two apartments were both used as dormitories for prisoners. The King’s apartment In this enfilade of rooms, the fireplaces are a testimony to the rich interior décor, dedicated to the memory of Henri III. 10 In the chamber is a bust of the King on the fireplace, and painted portraits of him and of his wife, Louise de Lorraine, hang next to a tapestry representing the Siege of La Rochelle woven at the chateau and the Renaud and Armide wall hanging. 11 The antechamber retains its fireplace, which was the most highly decorated in the chateau, with its sculpted bas-relief on the mantel illustrating Fame surrounded by military trophies, to highlight the King’s military victories. The Queen’s apartment 12 In the chamber hang five tapestries depicting Theagenes and Chariclea according to Simon Vouet, recounting their love story. 13 In the first antechamber, three tapestries from Brussels illustrate great love stories from Greek and Roman mythology. The painting on the rich and exuberant décor of the fireplace represents Queen Artemisia drinking the ashes of her husband Mausolus. 14 The second antechamber with its unfinished fireplace is decorated with two tapestries relating episodes from the life of Queen Zenobia of Palmyra. The basements 15 & 16 These two rooms on either side of the staircase, converted into kitchens and pantries in the 17th century, are particularly bright. They were used by Claude de Lapierre as a tapestry workshop when he made the 27-piece tapestry recounting the Life of Henri III for the chateau. They then served as the prison refectory and present an exhibition on the prison period. 17 & 18 The third pantry, the prison kitchen, leads to a spectacular suspended spiral staircase* , a marvel of precision in its design and stonework. It ran from the top to the bottom of the building. The garden 19 The prestigious ducal garden, a recent reproduction, is still closed off by the surrounding wall of the medieval bastide which follows the course of the stream, the Oeuille. The vast grounds lie beyond, which are now a public park. This little garden, which used to be a flower garden with grotto and malices* , was turned into the prison’s kitchen garden, and it still contains the well where some prisoners took their own lives. Redesigned in the spirit of the classical garden, the perspective of the chateau offered from the gardens is different from that seen from the courtyard. *Explanations overleaf.
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