1. Why do I want to breed?
Many owners want to breed in order to keep a puppy
irrespective of the sex, breed or type of pet.
Others, often first time owners, acquire a bitch having made a
definite decision that in the future they would like to breed a
litter. Whatever the reason, however, there are certain
important considerations and it is essential that you realise all
the implications before embarking upon any breeding
programme.
I obtained my dog from rescue but he is so lovely I would like a puppy from him. How do I go about it?
Remember that just like people, dogs are individuals and although we say “like father, like son” this does
not necessarily always apply. However, if you really are intent on mating your mongrel dog you should
remember that dogs, unlike people, usually have considerably more than one offspring at a time. You
have to consider how the problem of rehoming the other pups is achieved. Remember this can
sometimes be very difficult with non-pedigree stock. It is also important to realise that many of the larger
rescue organizations do not rehome dogs without sterilising them. If your dog is male, you have to find a
bitch. The owner of that bitch will have the responsibility for rehoming the puppies that you do not want.
Altogether this is not easy in view of the number of unwanted dogs in rescue.
Owners of male crossbred and mongrel dogs will often make arrangements with neighbours or with
members of local dog clubs. If your dog came from a rescue, pet shop, or even a neighbour’s litter, give
thought to the puppies your dog will produce. Will you be comfortable, if some of the rest of the litter,
apart from the one you choose, end up in a pet shop or in rescue?
If I do decide to go ahead, is it likely that the offspring will have the same lovely temperament as the one
I have?
Frankly the odds are against it. Training does however play a large part.
My dog does need to be mated, he becomes very “fruity” at certain times.
Mating occasionally is only likely to make him worse. Remember that stud dogs, (pedigree males that
have a proven show record), receive bitches on a fairly regular basis. Some owners of pedigree stud
dogs will allow non-pedigree matings on occasion if for any reason there is a hold up in the supply of
pedigree bitches!
What is the alternative?
Neutering. Remember all service dogs are neutered. This includes Guide Dogs, Hearing Dogs for Deaf
People, Dogs for the Disabled etc. The advantages far outweigh the disadvantages. The most important
disadvantage is an increase in weight if you are not careful with diet. With modern complete diets and
our help you should have no problems in this direction.
How do you suggest I obtain another dog with similar characteristics?
It depends upon the source of your original pet. That should perhaps be your first contact.
Alternatively consider your local dog rescue centres. They are full of unwanted animals, the majority of
which make charming pets and physically they come in all shapes, sizes, colours and hair coats.
Rescue personnel will also be prepared to assist with specialised advice regarding any special
requirements.
I obtained my bitch from rescue and they suggested she should be neutered at six months but she has
turned out to be such a lovely pet I would like a litter from her.
Neutering is really the sensible approach. Many crossbred or mongrel bitches are capable of producing
up to 8-10 puppies. There is the problem of finding good homes. I am sure you will recall that when you
chose your present bitch there were many other dogs looking for homes.
I realise that but she has turned out so special I would like a puppy from her.
Dogs, like people, vary. No matter how careful you are in selection of the sire, which sometimes can be
difficult, there is still no guarantee that you ultimately achieve the puppy of your dreams.
Yes, but how can I find a mate for my bitch short of letting her run with any dog in the park?
As mentioned previously owners of pedigree studs sometimes will allow mating with a non-purebred
bitch. This is useful if you want to concentrate on a particular character or conformation.
For example, if you have a cross Boxer bitch it may be possible to mate her with a pedigree Boxer stud.
Enquire at your local dog club or breed society in the first instance or contact the secretary of the
appropriate breed club whose details are available from the Kennel Club. Please realise your bitch is
likely to have a minimum of 4–6 puppies.
What are you going to do with the others?
I am a member of a local training club and there are lots of people who tell me they would like a puppy.
Unfortunately there is a great difference between initial enthusiasm and final acceptance of the puppy.
Many people do change their minds in the period between birth and weaning.
This is one of the reasons there are so many puppies available from pet shops and rescue.
What then would you suggest?
Neutering. Have your bitch neutered and select a similar type of puppy from your local rescue or via your
local dog club. Remember that you will be very fortunate to find good homes for all the rest of any
crossbred litter.
2. Oestrus and mating
When does a bitch first come into heat?
Puberty, or sexual maturity in the bitch, usually occurs around six months of age although this varies.
The smaller breeds tend to mature earlier and some bitches can have their first heat (oestrus) as early as
four months. On the other hand large and giant breeds can be two years old before they come into
heat for the first time.
How often is my bitch likely to come into heat?
On average this occurs about twice a year but it varies. After the first heat some bitches can take a year
to eighteen months to settle down with a regular cycle. Despite claims to the contrary there is no
evidence that irregular heats predispose to false pregnancies or pyometra (pus in the womb). Small
breeds tend to cycle more frequently than the larger breeds. Three and even four heats in a year can be
normal in some bitches of the Toy breeds.
Large breeds may only cycle once every 12-18 months. In most giant breeds (Great Danes, Irish
Wolfhounds, St Bernards, etc.) an approximately annual heat is usually normal.
How long does heat last?
From beginning to end allow at least three weeks.
Heat should be considered to begin with the first signs of discharge and with the bitch paying attention
to her vulva which on examination will appear swollen. It ends when all discharge ceases and the vulva
has returned to its normal size.
What are the signs of heat?
The most obvious sign is vaginal bleeding. Sometimes this does not become apparent until a few days
after the bitch has actually come into oestrus in which case vulval swelling should be taken as the first
sign, plus the bitch paying a lot of attention to her rear end.
From the beginning of the heat period she will be attractive to male dogs but does not usually allow
mating until about 7-10 days later. Then the discharge will be less blood-stained. In some bitches the
discharge can be heavy and very blood-stained. If you are concerned please consult us.
You may also find the bitch is passing small quantities of urine more frequently. This is her way of
advertising to any interested males that she will soon be ready for mating.
How do I know when it is the best time to mate the bitch?
This can be difficult. Some bitches can ovulate either early or late during the heat period. Most bitches
ovulate and are receptive from around the 11th day and the discharge will be less bloody and the bitch
will also be actively looking for a mate!
Are there any tests to determine when to mate my bitch?
Yes, there are simple tests available which we can arrange.
What are these tests?
Tests are available that measure the level of certain hormones in the blood which give a good indication
of the best time for mating.
They are usually undertaken about a week after the commencement of oestrus.
Although not 100% accurate they are more accurate than previous methods which depended on the
examination of vaginal smears. Often a combination of vaginal cytology (smears) and blood tests are
used. Such tests are very useful for bitches that have a history of unsuccessful mating or for breeding
bitches that have to travel some distance to the stud.
What can I do to ensure mating is accomplished satisfactorily?
Male dogs appear to be more stress sensitive than bitches thus successful matings are more common
when the dog is in its own environment. It is for this reason that bitches are usually taken to the stud dog.
The time of mating is extremely critical and it is for this reason that it is worthwhile having tests carried out
at the practice. For most bitches the most fertile time is between the 10th to 14th day of oestrus. Some
bitches ovulate as early as the third or fourth day or as late as the eighteenth day. Blood tests will give an
indication regarding this.
It is also quite usual to arrange for two matings for your bitch, often 24 or 48 hours apart.
Check these details with the owner of the stud when making initial enquiries. Also check the situation if
your bitch does not become pregnant as a result of the service. It is commonplace for owners of studs to
offer a free service next time.
I was told that my bitch had tied well with the dog and that only one service was necessary. What does
this mean?
The genital anatomy of the dog and bitch is such that during coitus part of the dog’s penis (the bulbis
glandis) enlarges and is held firmly by the muscles of the vagina which contract, thus preventing the
penis from being withdrawn. This is the tie that is considered a desirable feature for a successful mating
although pregnancy can occur without a tie. Once tied the dog will often step over the bitch or be
turned by handlers into a position so that the animals are back to back.
I found my dog tied to a bitch during a mismating. Was there anything I could do to separate them?
There is little point in trying to separate animals that are locked in this way. Buckets of cold water, water
pistols, etc. do little to speed up the process of separation and merely upset the animals.
If a mismating has occurred, please contact us. Injections are available to prevent pregnancy.
3. The Bitch’s Pregnancy
How long does the pregnancy last?
Pregnancy, also known as the gestation period, normally ranges from 57-65 days with an average of 63
days.
The date of mating should be carefully recorded. If there are two matings, make a note of the exact
dates and expect whelping to occur between 63 and 65 days from those dates.
Immediately after my bitch has been mated, is there anything that I should do?
Make sure that she does not have the opportunity to mate with any other dogs! Oestrus will continue for
another few days during which she will be receptive to further mating. After mating allow her to rest
quietly for a few hours.
Should I alter her food?
It is important the bitch is in good condition before she is mated, neither too fat nor too thin. Prior to
mating it is often worth having a veterinary check and discuss any concerns at that time.
After mating food intake should not normally be increased during the first two thirds of pregnancy, i.e.
until approximately six weeks after mating. If a complete diet is being fed there is no need to use
additional vitamin or mineral supplements. There is evidence that over use of these particularly, in the
large and giant breeds, can have adverse effects.
What do I do after the sixth week?
After the 6th week food intake should be gradually increased and high energy, low bulk foods are useful
in order that the bitch is adequately nourished without too much bulk. As the foetuses increase in size,
abdominal pressure increases and therefore smaller meals, fed more often, are helpful.
During the last three weeks food intake can be increased by up to one and a half times the normal level
giving small meals more frequently.
If in doubt regarding any supplements or medication please do not hesitate to contact us, some quite
commonly used drugs should be avoided if the bitch is pregnant.
How can I be certain if my bitch is pregnant?
Positive pregnancy diagnosis in the bitch can be extremely difficult. Unfortunately, as yet, we have no
reliable laboratory test. Traditionally abdominal palpation (feeling the abdomen) about three weeks
after mating was the usual method. This does depend on the bitch being relaxed. Today ultrasound
scans from 28 days onwards are reliable.
However any estimate of the number of puppies has to be treated with caution since errors can occur.
X-rays are reasonably accurate during the last two weeks of pregnancy.
Should I change her routine as pregnancy advances?
As pregnancy progresses intra-abdominal pressure increases together with food requirements, therefore
the number of meals rather than the quantity per meal has to be increased. Most bitches determine their
own exercise. It depends on the number of puppies and the amount of intra-abdominal pressure. Do not
over exercise. Check for any discharges etc. and if at all concerned, contact us without delay.
4. Whelping
Are there any changes in the behaviour of the bitch once pregnant?
From the time of mating many bitches show behavioural changes, often becoming more affectionate.
However some become uncharacteristically irritable.
Does morning sickness occur in the bitch?
Some bitches do experience a few days of vomiting (morning sickness) usually followed by the
development of a good appetite which will persist throughout pregnancy. However it does not occur in
all bitches.
My bitch appears to want to hide in strange places. Is this normal?
During the last week of pregnancy the bitch often starts to look for a secure place for her confinement.
Some pet bitches appear to become confused, wanting to be with their owners and at the same time
wanting to prepare their nest. It is a good idea to get the bitch used to the place where you want her to
have her puppies well in advance of whelping. Even so, there are a number of bitches that insist on
having their puppies in close proximity to the owner. This may be in the middle of the night, on your bed.
Be warned!
If she does start whelping in my bedroom, what shall I do?
It will be far less stressful for all concerned to allow her to continue in her chosen place.
Make sure you spread lots of old newspaper and if possible cover the carpet with a polythene sheet
which is then covered by the newspaper. Remember it is normal for foetal fluids in the bitch to be
coloured green. They are plentiful and their stains are difficult to remove.
Once the bitch has finished whelping, try gently moving her and family to your chosen place.
She should be well acquainted with this prior to whelping.
If she is determined she wants to share your living space, endeavour to compromise. A whelping box in a
quiet corner of the living room which has been covered with polythene sheets and newspapers is
preferable to an anxious bitch constantly leaving her puppies.
Should I be present during the whelping?
Some bitches like the owner to be with them the whole time they are in labour. Others prefer to get on
with it in seclusion. Decisions can only be made at the time.
What should I prepare in advance?
1. Make sure you have copious stocks of clean newspaper and enlist the help of friends and neighbours if
necessary.
2. Select the place where you would like her to have her puppies. Ensure that a suitable whelping box
has been selected and placed there. This depends on the size of the bitch but should be large enough
for her to move around freely and have low enough sides so that she can move in and out easily. A large
cardboard packing case with an open top and a piece cut out at the side so she can get in and out
easily is useful depending on the size of the bitch. We will to advise if you are unsure.
3. Line the bottom of the whelping box with plenty of paper. There is a lot of fluid at the time of whelping.
If sufficient layers of newspaper are laid at the outset, soiled layers may be removed with minimum
interruption to the mother and her new-born puppies.
4. Acrylic bedding, e.g. Vetbed, which is easily washed, can be used to cover the newspaper. During the
whelping plain newspaper is probably less hazardous and the puppies are less likely to get hidden
beneath it.
How will I know when my bitch is going to start?
Some bitches stop eating during the last 24 hours before labour although this is by no means universal. All
the textbooks tell you the rectal temperature will drop below 37.8oC (100oF) but this may only occur an
hour or two before she starts in labour.
If she does appear restless and starts bed making it is worthwhile contacting us just to let us know you
think she is starting.
These signs may last for up to 24 hours and are part of first stage labour.
Second stage labour is the stage of delivery. Your bitch will start to strain and if straining continues almost
continuously for two hours and no puppy is delivered, nor any sign of a water bag, you should contact us.
Although most dogs experience no complications during delivery, if she is a primagravida (first time
having puppies) make sure that she delivers the first two puppies without problems.
Your further presence will then depend upon the bitch. As mentioned previously, some prefer you to be
there.
My bitch has not had puppies before. Do you think she will be alright left?
Primagravidas should be kept under surveillance until you think they have finished, even though it may
not be necessary for you to be there all the time. Make sure the puppies are being cared for by the
bitch, particularly if she is still in labour. Some bitches are more concerned with straining to produce the
next puppy than to be bothered with those that have already been delivered. If that is the case, a small
cardboard box with a bottle filled with warm, (not hot), water, wrapped in a towel on to which the
puppies are placed and then covered with another towel is a useful method of ensuring they do not chill
while the bitch finishes her delivery.
How long will whelping take?
Delivery times vary. Dogs with fairly slim heads such as Shelties, Collies and Dobermanns may complete
delivery of all the puppies within 2-3 hours. Brachycephalic breeds, i.e. those with large, round heads
such as Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, Pekingese, tend to have more difficult deliveries and sometimes will
produce one or two relatively quickly and then rest for a while before labour starts again.
If your bitch has produced at least one puppy and then does not strain again within two hours, we should
be contacted. If the bitch has been straining continuously for a couple of hours and not produced a
puppy it is important that she receives veterinary help.
How are puppies normally born? Do they usually come backwards?
Puppies are usually born head first with the forelegs extended. This is called anterior presentation.
Posterior presentation is also normal in the bitch. Here the puppy is born with tail and hind legs coming
first. This is not breech presentation. A breech presentation is one in which the hind legs are forward and
the tail and bottom are presented. This is abnormal.
Some breech presentations can result in a normal delivery but usually complications occur. If a puppy’s
tail is seen hanging from the vulva or alternatively there is a lump just behind the vulval lips and your bitch
is straining, contact us without delay.
Should my bitch pass an afterbirth after each puppy?
Each puppy is enclosed in a sac that is part of the placenta or afterbirth. This sac is usually broken at birth
and passed after each puppy is born. This often is unnoticed since it is normal for the bitch to eat them
and the hormones they contain help with milk production. Sometimes a bitch will have two or three
puppies and then pass several of the afterbirths together.
Is it important that I count the afterbirths?
From the foregoing you will realise this can be difficult since a bitch may have passed the correct
number but eaten some. If the afterbirth is not passed, it usually disintegrates and passes unnoticed within
24-48 hours after delivery. This usually happens when the bitch relieves herself.
If the bitch has a blood stained or smelly discharge, 24-48 hours after delivery, please telephone us
without delay.
How soon should a puppy be born after it is seen emerging from the birth canal?
In a normal delivery a few contractions will produce the puppy. Ten minutes is reasonable.
Following delivery the bitch will lick and chew at the puppy and often appears to be treating it quite
roughly. However in most cases this is normal behaviour and stimulates the puppy to start breathing.
During the chewing and licking she tears the sac and exposes the mouth and nose so that it can
breathe. You will realise all is well if the puppy starts to whimper or cry.
Sometimes the placenta is delivered immediately after the puppy and is attached to it by the umbilical
cord. The bitch normally chews at this and breaks it about an inch from the puppy, consuming the
placenta at the same time. However in some breeds the mother seems to become over enthusiastic and
may lick and chew at the puppy until she injures it. This is why it is wise to watch your bitch.
I have heard that some bitches will have a puppy still attached to the afterbirth and ignore it.
This can sometimes happen particularly in primagravida bitches. It is important that you ensure the
puppy’s mouth and nostrils are clear of any afterbirth or membranes. The puppy is born in a fluid filled sac
that usually breaks during birth. If the puppy is still in the sac break it as quickly as possible. Clean the
puppy’s face and nostrils and then gently blow into the mouth and nostrils to try to get it to breathe. If the
afterbirth is still intact hold the puppy in the palm of your hand and with the finger and thumb of the
same hand pinch the cord and cut it just above your fingers about an inch to an inch and a half (2–3
cm) from the puppy.
Pinching the cord for a minute or two should stop any bleeding otherwise tie it with clean thread.
Then, holding the puppy in a towel covered hand gently rub it with the towel until the hair coat starts to
dry. The puppy should then start to whimper and be breathing normally. The tongue should be pink. You
can then offer it to the bitch. If she is more interested in delivering further puppies, place it in a box with a
warm water bottle covered by a towel.
Cover the puppy to keep it warm.
What happens if the puppy is visible but the bitch does not produce it?
Speed is essential particularly if it is a posterior presentation. If the puppy is coming head first make sure
that the membranes are removed from the visible part of the mouth and face.
Then at least when the bitch contracts the lungs will be stimulated and the puppy will get some oxygen. If
the puppy is coming backwards, it is important it is born quickly otherwise it will suffocate.
What should I do?
Irrespective of presentation, with a piece of clean tissue or towel, gently take hold of the puppy and pull
gently at approximately 45o to the ground. Do not pull only when the bitch strains. Gentle traction will
stimulate her to keep straining. Once the puppy is born, clear the membranes and cut the cord. If the
afterbirth is still inside the bitch, do not worry. It is important to stimulate the puppy by blowing gently
down the nostrils and mouth and clearing any discharges, membranes or debris, also stimulate it by
gently rubbing with a towel until it starts to breathe.
If you cannot dislodge the puppy or if it appears to be painful to the bitch, call us urgently.
Is it true that the puppy will die if it is not stimulated immediately after birth?
If the puppy is born within the foetal sac it will be unable to breathe and that is why it is important that if
the bitch does not break the sac, you should do so and follow the instructions given above.
The weight of the puppy usually breaks the sac during birth. This also stimulates the puppy to breathe. If
this does not occur tear the sac and clear the puppy’s nose and mouth without delay, blowing on the
nostrils and mouth to stimulate breathing.
Can puppies drown in their foetal fluids?
Yes. If the puppy is born and tries to breathe and the nose and mouth are still surrounded with fluid, this
enters the lungs. This is then an emergency. If the puppy is still breathing spontaneously it sounds as
though it is drowning. The fluid has to be removed urgently. Hold the puppy in the palm of one hand,
cradling the head between your thumb and finger to steady the head and neck. Your other hand is used
to cover the body. Then using both hands together, the puppy is gently but firmly swung head
downwards. The force generated should make the puppy gasp. Gravity will help the fluid and mucus
flow out of the lungs and mouth.
Repeat this several times checking the colour of the tongue and listening for any breathing. If successful
the tongue should change from a greyish blue to pink. If it remains bluish, continue the swinging process
and do not give up for at least 10-15 minutes, once breathing, place the puppy in a warm box as before.
In these circumstances is it still correct to cover the puppy with a light towel?
Yes, this will contain the warmth but check the puppy very frequently.
Is it possible to keep the puppies too warm?
The puppies have developed in a temperature of 38.5oC (101.5oF). Immediately after birth they are
unable to control their own temperature and are dependent upon external warmth.
Neonates sometimes cannot move from the source of artificial heat if too warm therefore care is
necessary. Use a thermometer if you are using heat lamps.
Should I continue the heat source if the bitch is nursing her puppies?
This depends on the breed but if a heat lamp is used care must be exercised otherwise the bitch can
become restless and sometimes leave the puppies if too warm.
5. Problems at birth
What happens if my dog has trouble delivering her puppies?
Although the majority of bitches will whelp without the need for assistance, problems can arise which
require veterinary attention. It is for this reason that we ask you to telephone us when you think that
whelping is imminent so that we have prior warning. Observe the bitch frequently during parturition and
contact us if necessary.
How will I know that she is starting?
When whelping is imminent the bitch often goes off her food (although this is not always the case) and
rectal temperature often drops below 38.1oC (100oF). The bitch will often go into corners and start
scratching to make her bed. If you see any of these signs it is worth ringing just to warn us since this is socalled first stage labour when the birth canal starts to dilate.
This is followed by second stage labour when the bitch starts to forcibly contract. These contractions start
gradually and increase in frequency and duration. If the bitch has been contracting for about two hours
without any sign of a puppy please contact us and if intense contractions have been occurring for 20–30
minutes without a puppy appearing it is important that we are contacted.
In which other situations should I contact you?
Other situations where veterinary help is needed include:
1. A bitch continually straining for a few minutes with a puppy or fluid filled bubble stuck in the birth
canal.
2. A bitch with a body temperature of more than 39.5oC (103oF).
3. Bleeding from the vagina for more than ten minutes.
4. A green discharge from the vagina without puppies having been born.
Are puppies, like babies, sometimes born prematurely?
Premature delivery does occur but it is not as common as thought. Often these so-called premature
deliveries have been an error in mating dates or a miscalculation in gestation period (63 days).
How can I tell if the pups are premature?
Truly premature puppies may be small, thin and have little or no hair. Survival is possible but they require
an enormous amount of care and often have to be hand fed since they are unable to suck. Sometimes
they have to be fed by stomach tube (gavage feeding). If necessary we will show you how to do this.
Bitches will often reject premature puppies and they soon die of chilling if not reared artificially with a
correct source of heat. Excessive heat can be just as harmful as chilling so it must be carefully controlled.
Environmental temperature must be maintained at around 32oC (90oF) and the box has to be large
enough so that the puppies can move away from the heat source if necessary.
The puppies have also to be kept in a moist atmosphere if they are being artificially reared away from
the mother. The bitch is usually continuously licking and cleaning the puppies and therefore not only is
the environment warm, it is also moist. You have to provide that with damp cloths in the box with them.
Will I have to artificially rear a premature litter completely?
No. Once the puppies are stronger and able to suckle the bitch will very often take over herself. It is
important, if she is rejecting the puppies at the outset to try and ensure they are fed her milk which
contains all the necessary antibodies to help prevent infection.
If the puppies can suck we will show you how to hold them on to the bitch’s teats, otherwise it may be
necessary to milk the bitch and then feed that milk to the puppies for a few days.
We will advise you how to do this.
Although very rewarding if the puppies survive, hand rearing is extremely time consuming and some
losses have to be expected.
Are some of the puppies likely to be stillborn or die after birth?
With animals that have multiple births, like dogs, it is not unusual for some of the offspring to either be
born dead or to die at the time of or shortly after birth. Sometimes a still born puppy will disrupt the
whelping resulting in dystocia (difficult birth) but usually the dead puppy is born normally.
Is this the fading puppy syndrome?
It can be although fading puppies can occur up to three or four weeks after birth. However a full scale
post mortem with virology, bacteriological and histopathology is always worthwhile if fading puppy
syndrome is suspected.
Can fading puppies be prevented?
In some cases, depending on the cause, prevention is possible. For example Canine Herpes Virus which is
a common cause, can be carried by the parents without them showing any signs but when transmitted
from the dam to the puppies can result in the puppies being born dead or dying shortly after birth. Today
it is possible to protect puppies from this virus by inoculating the dam during pregnancy.
I am told that with some breeds Caesarean sections are more common than a normal delivery. Is this
true?
Unfortunately in certain breeds there are strains and families that do seem to have more than their fair
share of dystocia (difficult birth) resulting in the need for a Caesarean section. The timing of this is always
a difficult decision. If carried out too late it can result in dead puppies and if too early, it may subject the
bitch to unnecessary surgery. It always requires careful discussion between the owner and the vet. If you
have any worries please feel free to discuss them with us.
6. Rearing the puppies and care of the bitch
My bitch has had her puppies without any problems, what do I have to do now?
If whelping appears to have finished clean up the bitch as much as possible without upsetting her.
Remove any of the very soiled newspaper, bedding, etc.
The bitch will spend most of her time with her puppies and for the next few days and it may be difficult to
even get her to leave them even to go to the toilet. Do not be afraid of putting her on a collar and lead
and taking her out for a short period if she is disinclined to move of her own accord. She will only want to
be out for a few minutes but during that time you can clean up the bed, and remove further soiled
newspaper and check the puppies.
Before she returns to her puppies check her nipples to make sure there are no problems.
What sort of problems am I looking for?
Check the vulva to see if there is excessive discharge. After 24 hours this should be drying up. It is normally
a greenish black colour and if she has not expelled all her afterbirths during whelping the discharge may
be blood stained and copious. However it should have lessened after 24-48 hours. If not, call us.
Check the teats to make sure that none are swollen, hot, hard or tender. If worried, please call us.
Do I check the puppies?
With a bitch having puppies for the first time, it is worthwhile checking the puppies every few hours to
make sure they are all suckling and warm and contented. Any that are crying or appear cold should be
placed on the inguinal teats and checked frequently to make sure they are not pushed out. These teats
between the hind legs usually give most milk.
Is it necessary for me to have a post natal veterinary check?
Although not essential this is very worthwhile particularly if it is the first time your bitch has had puppies.
We will check her to make sure there is no infection and that she is producing sufficient milk. The puppies
will also be checked over to make sure that there are no abnormalities such as cleft palates.
What shall I do if the bitch refuses to stay with the puppies?
This is not uncommon with pet bitches that are particularly attached to their owners. If the bitch will not
stay with her puppies it may be worth relocating her and her family so she can be nearer to you. Make
sure the puppies are not cold. Remember they cannot maintain their own body heat for a week or two
after birth.
During the first four days of life the environmental temperature should be maintained at 29.5- 32oC (8590oF). The temperature may then be gradually decreased to approximately 26.7oC (80oF) by the 7-10th
day and to about 22.2oC (72oF) by the end of the fourth week.
It is not necessary to heat the whole room to these temperatures. Hot spot heating over the nest with the
aid of a heat lamp is usually all that is necessary.
The larger the litter the lower the environmental temperature needs to be since as the puppies huddle
together their body heat provides additional warmth.
Their behaviour and condition gives a guide as to whether they are comfortable. If they are warm and
content they will be quiet and gaining weight, otherwise they will be restless and vocalising.
Should I weigh the puppies regularly?
Electronic kitchen or postal scales allow regular weighing of puppies. This gives a guide to their condition
and progress.
Is it necessary to keep the bitch and puppies in subdued light?
In their natural state bitches find a secluded whelping place, usually a dark or very sheltered spot. Some
bitches, if they feel their puppies are too exposed, may become anxious and start carrying them around
the house. Try to obscure as much of the light as possible from their area. This may resolve the problem.
Some bitches are more anxious than others, particularly those with their first litter. They try to hide their
puppies, even from the owners. If the bitch does not like the place you have selected for her, try to
compromise. If she is still unsettled, please contact us since it can affect her milk supply and soon there
will be problems with the pups.
I am told that some bitches will actually kill and eat their puppies. Is this true?
In the wild state a bitch with puppies is vulnerable to predators and if the puppies become vocal and
distressed the dangers increase. The primeval protective instinct will sometimes surface in the most gentle
pet. This occurs with some breeds more than others. Killing the puppies and sometimes eating them is the
usual method of averting perceived danger in the wild.
Since I have not raised a litter before, how can I tell when all is not well?
During the first two weeks of life, before their eyes open, puppies should feed and sleep at least 90% of
the time. If you are weighing the puppies regularly (once a day), there should be a consistent increase in
weight, if any of the puppies appear restless or make mewing type noises this can indicate a lack of
nourishment or infection.
If you are concerned please consult us without delay. Weight records of puppies that arouse your
suspicions are even more valuable. Keep careful records. Identify the puppies using a permanent marker
on the abdomen.
How will I know if the bitch’s milk supply is adequate?
A contented litter of plump puppies is the usual indication. Any puppies that appear restless and do not
have fat tummies will benefit from supplemental feeding 1-3 times a day. Please contact us and we will
supply the necessary food and feeders. It is important that any supplementary feeding is carried out at
the correct temperature. One rough and ready method is to drop some of the warm, reconstituted milk
onto the back of your hand.
All the commercial products carry detailed instructions regarding preparation and feeding amounts.
However these are for puppies that are not receiving any milk from the dam, therefore it is worthwhile
consulting us.
I understand it is possible for the bitch to develop inflammation of the breasts without warning?
Acute mastitis can occur very quickly. This is the reason that the bitch’s mammary glands should be
regularly checked for any inflammation, tenderness or hardness.
If the mother does not produce milk or it is infected the puppies will not be nourished and will soon start to
cry and lose weight. If this occurs, an entire litter can die within 24-48 hours.
Total replacement feeding either via a foster mother or with artificial products is necessary.
Please contact us and we will advise.
Is this the same as milk fever?
No. Mastitis is an infection of the mammary glands. Eclampsia or milk fever is due to a depletion of
calcium in the blood of the bitch due to heavy milk production and is not due to infection.
It occurs most commonly when the puppies are 3-5 weeks of age and the bitch is producing most milk.
Eclampsia is not due to an overall lack of calcium, it merely indicates she cannot mobilise sufficient
supplies of calcium quickly enough. Bitches that are particularly good mothers, especially attentive to
their puppies, always seem to suffer more severely.
I understand that milk fever is a very serious condition. How can I tell when it is starting?
Eclampsia is a true emergency and you must contact us immediately you think the bitch is in trouble.
Initially the signs are subtle. The bitch may be a bit restless and panting. Often the first sign is a stiff
movement. This soon progresses to muscle spasms affecting the whole body and she can quickly
progress to convulsions.
What can I do?
Prevent the pups from suckling and contact us without delay.
Treatment involves injections of calcium and other drugs, often intravenously. Provided the condition has
not progressed too far, recovery is usually spectacular.
7. The growing puppy, lactation and weaning
What should I expect during the puppies’ first few weeks of life?
During the first three weeks of life puppies require little care from the owner provided the bitch is
competent. They are born with their eyes closed but these open after 7-14 days. If any swelling is noted
under the eyelids try massaging with cotton wool damped with warm water. If the swelling is due to
infection, pus will emerge as the eyelids open. Please contact us. Again if the eyes have not opened by
14-16 days of age, or if you are concerned about any discharges, please let us know.
Is there anything else I should note during these early weeks?
The puppies’ growth rate should be monitored. Broadly speaking a puppy should double its birth weight
in the first 7-8 days. Electronic or kitchen postal scales are ideal to monitor weights. Absolute accuracy is
not as important as weight increases.
When should the puppies start to stand and take an interest?
As soon as the puppies’ eyes open they develop rapidly. By two weeks of age they should be alert and
trying to stand. By three weeks they should be trying to climb out of their nest. At four weeks all the
puppies should be able to walk, run and play.
What about my bitch? When and how do I increase her food and with what?
You will have increased your bitch’s food during the last two or three weeks of pregnancy.
(We can supply a hand-out giving information about this.)
After whelping, food requirements increase as the bitch produces more milk for her growing puppies.
Maximum milk production occurs approximately three weeks after whelping and at this time it is not
unusual for a bitch to be eating 3-4 times her normal maintenance diet depending on the size of her
litter, breed, etc.
What should I be feeding the bitch and how often?
It is important not to change the bitch’s diet too suddenly particularly immediately after whelping. Eating
the afterbirth, which helps to stimulate milk production, also tends to cause diarrhoea. If she has been fed
a complete balanced diet, either canned or dried, this will have been gradually increased during the last
2 or 3 weeks of her pregnancy by increasing the frequency of feeding rather than the volume per meal.
After whelping she may be disinclined to eat very much for 24-48 hours and then regain her appetite. It is
worthwhile feeding frequently, gradually increasing her pre-whelping quantities as her milk production
increases and as her puppies grow.
Peak milk production will be at approximately 3 weeks by which time, depending upon breed and size of
litter, she may be receiving up to four times her normal maintenance ration broken down into about four
meals a day. Adequate fluid is also essential particularly if dry food is being fed. Make sure there is a
plentiful supply of clean drinking water. You will be surprised how much she consumes.
Is it necessary to feed my bitch milk or milk substitute while she is lactating?
No. If a complete diet is being fed, water is all that is necessary. The bitch does not need any added
vitamins or supplements provided the appropriate complete diet is being fed.
What is an appropriate diet?
We can advise regarding suitable, highly nutritious, energy dense complete foods. Toy and small breed
dogs often prefer the canned variety whereas the larger breeds often do better on dried food.
I understand I have to wean the puppies. What is this and how and when do I do it?
Weaning describes the transition of the puppy’s diet from its mother’s milk to the essentially meat based
high energy growth diet of puppyhood.
In the wild weaning begins naturally as soon as the puppies start to develop their teeth at 3-4 weeks of
age. Suckling then irritates or hurts the bitch who will move away and leave her family for longer and
longer periods.
Natural weaning involves the bitch vomiting and the puppies consuming this. Pet bitches will often do this
and cause concern to owners. Often it is merely a natural maternal function.
Once the puppies’ eyes are open the sooner the puppies are weaned, the less the strain on the bitch
and the sooner she will return to condition. This is particularly important with exhibition stock.
If the puppies have had to be hand reared for any reason it is also an advantage that they are weaned
early. Therefore it is worthwhile commencing offering soft foods as soon as their eyes are open.
What should I start with?
Start by placing one of the reconstituted bitch milk replacers in a flat saucer. Wet their noses and mouths
with a finger dipped in the formula. Repeat two or three times a day until they begin to lap. This usually
takes 1-4 days.
Next raw scraped meat can be smeared around their mouths or alternatively canned puppy food can
be placed in the milk food. As the puppies lap at the milk they will also ingest the food. The amount of
milk is then decreased daily until they are eating the canned food with little or no moisture added. This
should be completed by 4-6 weeks of age. Weaning them onto one of the complete puppy foods
(which are available, dry, canned and semi moist) ensures balanced nutrition. No added vitamins or
minerals are necessary. Puppies of the toy or smaller breeds often prefer canned (moist) food. Once the
puppy is happy with a complete formula from a reputable manufacturer try to keep to it.
If you have any concerns please consult us.
I realise that diet is extremely important. How long do puppies need a special diet and how often do I
have to feed them?
It is good sense both economically and from a labour saving point of view to feed complete diets
formulated for puppies. At the time of weaning they should be fed little and often, approximately 4-6
times a day. By the time they are ready to leave the bitch, at about 6-8 weeks of age they should be
receiving about four meals a day. By the age of three months this can be increased in quantity and
reduced in frequency to about three times a day. Most breeds then progress to two meals a day at the
age of 6-9 months and one meal a day at about a year old. Although some of the slow maturing breeds,
particularly the giant breeds, may require more frequent feeding until nearly two years old. Please
contact us with any problems.
8. Homing the puppies and vaccinations.
When will I be able to dispose of the puppies?
Puppies should not go to new homes under the age of six weeks, except in special circumstances. From
the point of view of socialisation and bonding the sooner the puppy goes to a new home the better. If
homes have not already been secured advertising should be directed to ensure that the puppies are
rehomed by the time they are 8 weeks old.
What about vaccinations? Should I keep the pups until this has been completed?
Puppies are provided with some immunity to the major canine diseases from their mother before and
shortly after birth. This is particularly true if the dam’s vaccinations are up to date. Some of the mother’s
antibodies cross the placenta and enter the puppy’s circulation but most of the protection comes from
the mother’s milk, particularly the first milk or colostrum. These maternal antibodies protect puppies
against diseases to which the mother is immune. It is for this reason that it is important to ensure that any
booster inoculations are administered prior to mating your bitch.
The protection afforded by maternal antibodies depends on many factors and sometimes wanes as
early as 5 to 6 weeks whereas in other litters it can last until they are over 12 weeks old. It is therefore
worthwhile discussing this with us before the litter leaves. It may be worthwhile considering administration
of a first vaccine prior to going to their new homes. We will supply the necessary certificate and
instructions regarding further vaccination. Please see Vaccination of Puppies hand-out.
What about my bitch? Do I have to do anything to dry up her milk supply?
From approximately three weeks, as you start to wean the puppies they should be feeding gradually less
and less from the bitch. She will be happy to leave the nest for longer periods and depending on her
breed or type will probably enjoy increased periods of exercise. At the same time her milk supply should
be diminishing naturally and in consequence the frequency and quantity of food should also be
decreased. If you need any help, please contact us.
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