Safe Vertical Caving
by Kurt Waldron
Published in the NSS News, Sept. 2008
Volume 66, Number 9, pages 22-23.
From time to time we hear about people who get in
trouble while on rope. Although there can be many
reasons for the difficulty, it usually can be attributed
to one of two reasons: inadequate equipment or
an inability to perform the required skills. With
adequate training and preparation, problems can
almost always be avoided. In this article, I’ll present
some of the equipment needed to safely cave on
rope. I am not aware of any established standards
on this topic, so what follows are only my thoughts,
developed over time from experience. As always,
your thoughts and ideas are always appreciated.
You can contact me at: [email protected].
W
e all approach caving a little differently. Some
of us are “minimalists” who only take exactly
what we will need on our trip and nothing more. In
some cases, that may be all that we own. Other people
are “gear heads” with plenty of equipment and need to
choose what to take on a trip. Regardless, one needs to
take enough equipment on the trip and know how to
use it properly. What is “enough” depends on the type
of trip, individual training, and experience of all of
the cavers on the trip. While some people may be very
comfortable climbing on knots with a tied harness
made from webbing, the intent of this article is to
discuss the equipment used by the caver who will want
or need a sewn seat harness, mechanical ascenders and
typical friction-based descent devices.
Over time and with experience, some cavers
begin to choose what they take based on the potential
problems that could be encountered on the trip. This is
a great idea in theory, but can easily lead to problems
if too much equipment is taken, especially if the caver
carrying all of this gear has a large, heavy pack and
the trip is very long or has narrow passages. However,
taking the absolute minimum equipment on a trip
will limit options if any problems arise. Obviously, a
reasonable balance between these opposite extremes
needs to be established. The intent of this article is
to establish the minimum equipment required for an
individual to stay safe while on rope as well as define
the extra equipment which will be most useful if
problems arise.
Since one should not go underground without an
adequate helmet, light, clothing, gloves and boots, I
will presume, that you already have this equipment
(see my articles on how to prepare for a cave trip in
the June and October 2007 NSS News.) This article
is directed at the things which are unique to vertical
caving.
First, there are many types of climbing systems
to choose from. Personal preference, the type of
vertical caving that you are most likely to be doing,
and comfort are three factors on which to base the
choice of a climbing system. Whichever system you
choose, be able to use it effectively and know what
the limitations and problems are and how to deal with
them on rope. Some of the more popular climbing
systems would include the “Frog”, “Mitchell” and
“Rope Walker.” The differences between the “Frog”
and “Rope Walker” illustrate the types of choices that
one must make when choosing a climbing system. No
one system is perfect for every scenario, or person,
and at some point each becomes a less than optimum
choice. With time you may become familiar with more
than one system and you may them in very different
scenarios.
The “Frog” is very popular because it is compact,
requires minimal gear and functions very well with
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short climbs and scenarios where the climber needs
to maneuver while on rope (for example rebelays). A
“Rope Walker” has more hardware and is therefore
heavier and bulkier than a “Frog,” but it really comes
into its own on long free drops where it is possible for
a fast climb to occur. I have and use both systems. I
generally use my “Frog” when caving in the Virginia
Region with climbs of 200 feet or less, especially
when I need to do a lot of maneuvering while on rope.
I usually use my “Rope Walker” on the longer drops
in TAG and in Mexico. But I have also used it when I
am tired after a very long cave trip and want to get up
the rope with the least amount of energy expended. It
is a little more expensive to own two systems instead
of one, but the versatility is probably worth it. That
said, many people only own one system or the other
and make it work for all situations. If you are new to
vertical caving, talk to the people you cave with and
see which systems are in use in the area you will do
most of your caving.
Once you start using a climbing system, take the
time to keep it in good condition. It is a good idea to
inspect it periodically and make sure that everything
is working OK. Replace any equipment that is worn
out or not working properly. You are, after all, dealing
with your life when you get on rope. Is it worth the
few bucks that you will save by NOT ordering a new
harness or ascender when your old one is worn out?
The best you can hope for in a case like this is that you
will just be severely embarrassed when your poorly
maintained gear fails at a critical moment and delays
everyone else’s departure from what should have been
an easy cave trip. Of course, your equipment might
also fail and kill you too.
When you make repairs to your climbing system,
avoid the temptation to replace the screw links and
mallions you use for life support with stuff that you
can buy in a hardware store. The stuff you find there is
not intended for climbing and if used in that way has
an increased risk of failure. You should also be careful
about using rock climbing gear for vertical caving.
Rock climbers have some very good equipment,
but it generally works best with a clean, dry rope –
something that we frequently do not have in vertical
caving.
Just as important as your climbing system is
your descent device. The best choice for a cave
environment would be either a rack or a figure 8,
because they work well with the dirty, wet conditions
typically found in a cave. The primary issue to sort
through is the size and the weight of the device that
you plan on using. As a general rule, racks are more
versatile than figure 8’s and the larger the rack the
more control you will have over your rappel. A lot of
people use micro racks and figure 8’s because they are
small and light, but what they are usually giving up
is the ability to control the speed of their rappel. It is
critical that you understand how your descent device
works and that you know how to solve any of the
potential problems that you are likely to have while
you are on rappel.
Regardless of the type of climbing system and
descent device you use, there are several useful
upgrades and modifications which every caver should
consider making to their system. The first is to add
a “Quick Attach Safety” or “QAS.” This is an extra
ascender used to help the climber always maintain two
points of attachment when changing ropes, performing
changeovers or negotiating difficult lips. The type of
ascender used in a QAS is not as important as being
able to manipulate it with either hand while you are in
a very stressful situation.
A second useful modification to any climbing
system is to have the length of your top ascender and
QAS be adjustable. When this is done your ascenders
Figure 1
A non-adjustable Petzl SPELEGYCA cowstail.
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can always be adjusted to the length that you need
or “auto block.” Its purpose is to stop your rappel if
instead of the length that you were sold. This can
you ever become unconscious or incapacitated for
be seen very clearly
any reason while you
in Figure 1, where the
are on rope. It has been
Petzl Spelegyca with
used by rock climbers for
a cowstail (frequently
many years and has only
sold with a Frog
recently begun to be used
climbing system) is of
by cavers. It is an excellent
a fixed length that can
and nearly fool proof piece
not be adjusted while
of equipment to add to
on rope. Although its
your climbing system and
size is adequate for
is well worth the effort to
many, it will never be
learn and use. For those
a perfect fit for most
of you who are unfamiliar
people. On the other
with the “French Wrap”
hand, an ascender with
and want to o matter
an adjustable lanyard
what you do, you want to
can always be exactly
concentrate on developing
the length that you
the required skills,
Figure 2
need (Figures 2 and 3).
An adjustable ascender that has been shortened knowledge and vertical
Adjustable lanyards can for a shorter reach.
competence needed to
be bought from vendors,
keep yourself safe while on
but if you know your
rope.
knots, you can make your own. Using adjustable gear
We will talk about what those skills are at another
will frequently make your system a little less compact,
time.
Until then, cave safely!
but it is worth its weight in gold if it can get you out of
a tough situation with a little less effort.
The third and final modification that I make to my
climbing system is to always use a “French Wrap”
Figure 3
An adjustable ascender which has been fully extended for the longest reach possible.
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