stress relief hand and arm
touch therapy
student workbook
Text copyright © by Dermalogica. No part of this text may be reproduced in any way without written permission from
Dermalogica.
092616
meet dermalogica
For more than 30 years, we have redefined professional excellence in the skin care industry. Instead of teaching
"beauty school" to "beauticians," we teach skin health to skin therapists, offering the most challenging and
rewarding postgraduate skin and body therapy curriculum in the world.
We believe in skin health, not beauty.
Dermalogica launched in 1986, a time when neon reigned, hair was big and beauty was more important than skin
health. While snazzy, frilly products acted more as trendy accessories than tools for skin health, Dermalogica
delivered innovation through real research, real ingredients and real results.
Today, Dermalogica still turns heads for innovative products and treatments that
work, and our customers turn heads for skin health that goes farther than skin
deep.
We believe professional skin care is not a luxury.
To us, skin care is part of daily health — like brushing your
teeth! That's why we believe so much in the power of
professional skin therapists to change how people value and
care for their skin.
Since Jane Wurwand — herself a professional skin therapist —
founded Dermalogica, our mission has been to bring respect
and success to professional skin therapists through excellent
education, innovative products and outstanding customer
service. Everything we do is done to help you be the best, most
successful and most influential skin therapist you can be.
We believe in setting the standard.
Dermalogica is the #1 choice of skin care professionals
worldwide. To date, we have won more than 300 awards for our
revolutionary products and treatments, all researched and
developed by The International Dermal Institute (IDI). As a
student, you're not only working with these products and
treatments, you're learning the best, from the best, with access
to more than 40 IDI classes and industry-leading experts!
Along with IDI, Dermalogica is the driving force behind more than 90 training centers, including our unique
Immersive Learning Centers at select locations.
________________________
benefits of stress relief hand and arm touch therapy
Restore balance
The massage techniques you will learn today will help to restore balance to the body, particularly if your
client is suffering from tension and stress in the shoulder area. Every day activities such as sitting at a
desk, driving a car, carrying small children on your hips can create a lot of upper body tension. To relieve
that tension, the body needs to be able to get rid of toxins. Once the body is detoxified, it is able to relax
and relieve tension from the muscles.
Reduce stress and induces deep relaxation
This goes without saying! Massage movements have the ability to relax the body and the mind. We are
all exposed to stress on a daily basis, whether it’s personal or professional and it is often stored in the
upper body. We tend to hold our shoulders up, and place our necks down, thus resulting in poor posture.
Improves blood circulation
If you can improve blood circulation, your body is able to function more efficiently and aid with bringing
nutrients and O2 to the area.
Cleanses the body of toxins and impurities
Blood circulation is responsible for removing toxins and wastes, such as CO2 from the body. Lymph
circulation is also increased. This aids in toxin reduction within the body.
Revitalizes energy and Preventative Health Care
Massage techniques, whether for the entire body or simply a Touch Therapy as you’re learning today are
much needed by your clients, and a great step in positive health for the body. Lack of exercise and
movement is detrimental to our health care. Keep in mind, it is not only our clients we’re looking at but
ourselves too. As professional skin therapists we have a limited range of motion, as we work primarily
from the waist up. After experiencing this treatment today, you will be able to notice the effects for
yourself, and then you will know first hand how to communicate that to your clients.
Notes:
aspects of the hand and arm
The term ‘anatomical position’ refers to the views or aspects of the body when looking at it from different angles.
Anterior - front of body
Posterior - back of body
Lateral - furthest from center of body (outside line)
Medial - nearest to center of body (inside line)
The directional terms used in a human hand:
In standard anatomical position, the palms of the hands point anteriorly. Thus, anterior can be used to describe the
palm of the hand (palmar), and posterior can be used to describe the back of the hand and arm (dorsal).
anatomy of the arm and hands
Muscles of the arm
Many of the muscles that control the hand start at the elbow or forearm. They run down the forearm and
cross the wrist and hand. Some control only the bending or straightening of the wrist. Others influence
motion of the fingers or thumb. Many of these muscles help position and hold the wrist and hand while the
thumb and fingers grip or perform fine motor actions.
Most of the small muscles that work the thumb and pinky finger start on the carpal bones. These muscles
connect in ways that allow the hand to grip and hold. Two muscles allow the thumb to move across the palm
of the hand, an important function.
The smallest muscles that originate in the wrist and hand are called the intrinsic muscles. The intrinsic
muscles guide the fine motions of the fingers by getting the fingers positioned and holding them steady
during hand activities.
trapezius
deltoid
biceps
triceps
flexor carpi
radialis
brachioradialis
thenar
eminence
palmoris
longus
thenar
eminence
Bones and joints
There are 27 bones within the wrist and hand. The wrist itself contains eight small bones, called carpals.
The carpals join with the two forearm bones, the radius and ulna, forming the wrist joint. Further into the
palm, the carpals connect to the metacarpals. There are five metacarpals forming the palm of the hand.
One metacarpal connects to each finger and thumb. Small bone shafts called phalanges line up to form
each finger and thumb.
The main knuckle joints are formed by the connections of the phalanges to the metacarpals. These joints
are called metacarpophalangeal (MCP joints). The MCP joints work like a hinge when you bend and
straighten your fingers and thumb.
anatomy of the arm and hand
Nerves of the arm
All of the nerves that travel to the hand and fingers begin together at the shoulder: the radial nerve, the median
nerve, and the ulnar nerve. These nerves carry signals from the brain to the muscles that move the arm, hand,
fingers, and thumb. The nerves also carry signals back to the brain about sensations such as touch, pain, and
temperature.
Ligaments and tendons
Ligaments are tough bands of tissue that connect bones together. Two important structures, called collateral
ligaments are found on either side of each finger and thumb joint. The function of the collateral ligaments is to
prevent abnormal sideways bending of each joint.
The tendons that allow each finger joint to straighten are called the extensor tendons. The extensor tendons of the
fingers begin as muscles that arise from the backside of the forearm bones. These muscles travel towards the
hand, where they eventually connect to the extensor tendons before crossing over the back of the wrist joint. As
they travel into the fingers, the extensor tendons become the extensor hood. The extensor hood flattens out to
cover the top of the finger and sends out branches on each side that connect to the bones in the middle and end
of the finger.
The place where the extensor tendon attaches to the middle phalanx is called the central slip. When the extensor
muscles contract, they tug on the extensor tendon and straighten the finger. Problems occur when the central slip
is damaged, as can happen with a tear.
carpal ligaments (carpal tunnel syndrome)
What is the Carpal Tunnel?
•
The Carpal Tunnel is a narrow tunnel formed by the bones and other tissues of the wrist. This
tunnel protects the median nerve. The median nerve gives you feeling in your thumb, index,
middle and ring fingers. But when other tissues in the carpal tunnel, such as ligaments and
tendons, get swollen or inflamed, they press against the median nerve. That pressure can make
part of the hand hurt, or feel numb.
What causes Carpal Tunnel Syndrome?
•
Carpal Tunnel Syndrome is defined by compression of the median nerve at the level of the wrist.
This nerve passes through the carpal tunnel along with nine tendons which help you bend your
fingers. The "tunnel" is created by the carpal bones and transverse carpal ligament. When
inflammation occurs at the wrist this creates pressure on the nerve.
•
The pressure leads to symptoms such as numbness or tingling in the fingers, pain radiating up
the arm, and night pain. These symptoms can be evident when driving, holding newspapers and
dropping objects. Compression of the nerve can result from repetitive use of the hands and
wrists, diabetes, and/or hormonal changes such as pregnancy.
How serious is Carpal Tunnel Syndrome?
•
Carpal Tunnel Syndrome usually is not serious. With treatment, the pain will usually go away
and you'll have no lasting damage to your hand or wrist.
How is Carpal Tunnel Syndrome treated?
•
If Carpal Tunnel Syndrome is caused by a medical problem, your doctor will most likely first treat
that problem.
•
Your doctor may ask you to rest your wrist or change how you use your hand. Your doctor may
also ask you to wear a splint on your wrist. The splint keeps your wrist from moving, but lets your
hand do most of what it normally does. A splint can help ease the pain of Carpal Tunnel
Syndrome, especially at night.
•
Putting ice on your wrist, massaging the area and doing stretching exercises may help too.
application and technique
Effleurage
Light, even, stroking movements which prepare the tissues for deeper massage and link up other
movements in the sequence. This is usually done with the palms of the hands but can be any light
stroking or warming movement.
Petrissage
Compression (pressure), kneading, knuckling, rolling and squeezing of the muscles - increase blood
and lymph flow, relaxes and tones muscle fibers. This movement warms the tissues and relieves
stress and tension of the muscles.
Joint mobility
In this context mobility means joint movement, encompassing both the ability of the joint to move
through its widest safe range of motion and the ability of the nearby muscles to cause that motion.
Deep tissue massage
This type of massage therapy focuses on realigning deeper layers of muscles and connective tissue. It
is especially helpful for chronically tense and contracted areas such as stiff necks, low back tightness,
and sore shoulders.
Some of the same strokes are used as classic massage therapy but the movement is slower and the
pressure is deeper and concentrated on areas of tension and pain.
When there is chronic muscle tension or injury, there are usually adhesions (bands of painful, rigid
tissue) in muscles, tendons, and ligaments.
Adhesions can block circulation and cause pain, limited movement, and inflammation.
Deep tissue massage works by physically breaking down these adhesions to relieve pain and restore
normal movement. To do this type of movement, use direct deep pressure or friction applied across
the grain of the muscles.
body products - retail
product
Conditioning Body Wash
The Ultimate Buffing Cloth
Body Hydrating Cream
Protection 50 Sport SPF50
skin condition
ingredient
features
benefits
directions
All skin conditions
Quillaja Saponaria
provides natural lathering
in a rich pearlized gel.
While oils of Tea Tree,
Lemon and Rosemary
purify the skin. Panthenol
moisturizes and conditions
the skin.
A rich, naturally-foaming
skin cleanser for the body.
With soap-free Quillaja
Saponaria extract for a
non-drying wash and
Sandalwood and Lavender
to replenish moisture.
Leaves skin refreshingly
clean and soft.
Pour a small amount onto
The Ultimate Buffing
Cloth, hands or sponge
and work over the entire
body. May be added to the
bath for a relaxing, foaming
bath soak.
All skin conditions
except users of
medically prescribed
exfoliating products
Imported from Japanese
spas, this quick-drying
cloth buffs and polishes
away dead cells with ease.
Dries quickly to avoid
contamination and folds
flat for ease in travel.
Launder in a cool wash.
Will leave the skin clean,
soft and totally revitalized.
Provides all-over body
exfoliation in an effective
and hygienic application.
Regular use will leave the
skin super smooth.
Wet the cloth and apply
Conditioning Body Wash
and use as a wash cloth.
To wash hard-to-reach
areas open the cloth and
hold each end so as to
massage over the whole
back.
All skin conditions
A rich, non-greasy formula
for total body hydration.
Contains hydroxy acids to
micro-exfoliate along with
Green Tea, Chamomile
and Patchouli to soothe
and nourish the skin.
Enriched with a host of
essential oils.
An easily-absorbed
moisturizing treatment with
hydroxy acids for retexturizing and essential
oils and plant extracts to
restore softness and
hydration. Effectively
hydrates even the driest
skin to leave it softened
and smooth.
Apply to a damp skin
immediately after
showering.
All skin conditions
Avobenzone and
Octinoxate provide
chemical UV
protection with a
lightweight, nongreasy feel. Licorice
Extract calms the skin
and scavenges UVinduced free radicals
exposed to daylight.
Oleosome
Technology allows for
enhanced
moisturization while
boosting SPF.
Sophisticated UV
protection, Avobenzone
and Octinoxate provide
chemical UV protection
with a lightweight, nongreasy feel. Licorice
extract calms the skin and
scavenges UV-induced
free radicals when the skin
is exposed to daylight.
Oleosome Technology
allows for enhanced
moisturization while
boosting SPF. Non-greasy
formula feels light and
comfortable on skin..
Apply directly to face and
body for full SPF50
coverage, preferably 30
minutes prior to sun
exposure.
professional products
product
Exfoliant Accelerator 35
Professional Only
MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant
Professional Only
skin condition
ingredient
features
benefits
Coarse, sun damaged,
resistant, prematurely
aging
Lactic acid an alpha hydroxy
acid that stimulates cell renewal
and cell turnover while
hydrating the skin.
papaya juice enzymes
A rich source of Papain, a
proteolytic enzyme that digests
Keratin protein, helps to slough
off dead skin cells and improves
skin smoothness. Bacillus
ferment a source of bacterial
protease enzymes that helps
loosen cell cohesion while
stimulating digestion of Keratin
protein in the epidermis. Lemon
juice (citrus limonum) a source
of Citric Acid used to control
and maintain a low pH to
optimize activity of Lactic Acid.
Olive leaf (olea europea) extract
provides soothing polyphenols
that help combat irritation
associated with low pH and a
high concentration of Lactic
Acid.
 30% Lactic Acid at a pH of
3.2
 Accelerates the activity
and exfoliation efficacy of
Dermalogica
Professional Exfoliants.
 Allows for customization
of
professional exfoliation
treatments.
Helps stimulate cell
renewal and cell turnover
rates and helps
smooth skin while
improving texture and tone.
For dry, dehydrated, sundamaged, mature or
prematurely-aging skin
Retinol (Vitamin A) normalizes
and exfoliates skin.
Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C)
and Tocopheryl Acetate
(Vitamin E) stimulate collagen
production and provide
antioxidant protection.
Lactic Acid removes dulling
surface debris to help reverse
the signs of environmentallydamaged skin and brighten skin
tone. Stimulates restoration of
lipid barrier.
Salicylic Acid (15%), a beta
hydroxy acid, optimizes
exfoliation of skin cells.
Contains a higher, more
effective concentration of
Salicylic Acid for optimum
exfoliation.New packaging
can be resealed for multiple
treatment use. BioActivity
Score is 25. Unique lipid
base that allows for
massage application and
maximum penetration while
minimizing client sensitivity.
directions
Apply to feet alone or
customized with MVPE, gently
massage over skin with
fingertips for a maximum of 510 minutes. Monitor for
excessive stinging or redness
and remove promptly if
necessary. Remove with a
double cleanse and steam
towel.
Twist open applicator tube and
dispense fluid onto foot with
light, circular movements.
Replace cap if all of product is
not used.
Lightly massage product over
skin with fingertips. Pay special
attention to areas of visual
dryness and callouses.
For coarser skin: Leave on for
4 to 7 minutes. Use of steam is
optional.
Assess the skin throughout the
treatment. Remove immediately
if discomfort or irritation is
severe. Dampen gauze with
cold water and Conditioning
Body Wash to remove
MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant.
To ensure complete removal,
follow with a second cleanse.
Remove with a steam towel.
product
skin condition
Clearing: oily, congested,
breakout-prone skin
Additives
Revitalizing: tired-looking, aging
skin, also suitable for parchment
thin skin.
Soothing: stressed and sensitive
skin caused by hay fever, asthma
and environmental factors.
Calming: for sensitive skin
conditions, blended to heal and
soothe irritated and allergy-prone
skin.
Botanical
Mixers
Purifying: for detoxifying and
antiseptic effects. Blended to
deeply purify and de-congest a
clogged and blemished skin.
Replenishing: for nourishing and
revitalizing the skin; dry,
dehydrated and mature skin.
ingredient
features
Clearing:
Moringa Seed Oil, Essential oil blend
of Cananga Odorata (Ylang Ylang),
Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood),
Cymbopogon Schoenanthus
(Lemongrass)
Revitalizing:
Camellia Japonica (Rose of Winter)
Seed Oil, Essential oil blend Santalum
Album (Sandalwood), Citrus
Aurantium (Neroli), Lavandula
Angustifolia (Lavender)
Soothing:
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil,
Essential oil blend of Lavandula
Angustifolia (Lavender), Eucalyptus,
Cupressus Sempervirens (Cypress)
Calming:
Sandalwood, Lavender and Eucalyptus
Purifying:
Ylang Ylang, Balm Mint and Lemon
Replenishing:
Sandalwood, Basil and Tangerine
benefits
directions
Clearing: Helps control
breakouts and control excess oil
production. Detoxifies the skin,
reduces inflammation and aids in
healing.
Revitalizing: Renews lackluster
skin, promotes circulation and
gently stimulates skin tissues.
Alleviates dryness and helps
promote relaxation and
strengthen mental concentration.
Soothing: Relieves skin
sensitivity from hay fever,
asthma, pollution, smoking and
allergies. Soothes stressed skin,
helps quiet the mind and alleviate
sinus tension.
An oil-free blend with active
botanicals that are both powerful
and aromatic. A water-soluble
floral water base with
hydroessential blends to enhance
performance and customize
almost all treatment products.
Ideal for oil-intolerant clients that
want the benefit of essential oils
in a lighter formulation.
Select the appropriate
Additive and shake 4-6
drops into hand. Avoid
touching the nozzle for
proper hygiene. Lightly
press (do not rub)
Additive onto your
client’s skin.
Dispense 6-10 drops or
apply directly to the skin
for intensive benefits.
May be customized into
almost any Dermalogica
professional product, or
used as an oil-free
aromatherapy massage.
product
Massage cream
Oil Free
Massage
skin condition
All skin conditions
All skin conditions, especially
skin with breakouts and excess
oil production.
ingredient
features
Essential fatty acids, Mallow, Ivy,
Sambucus, Cucumber and Arnica
Niacinamide, Horse Chestnut, Yeast,
Panthenol, Caffeine, Licorice, Camphor
benefits
directions
A fragrance-free, creamy formula
with 50% Safflower Oil for easy
slip and glide. Plant extracts of
Mallow and Cucumber soothe
and moisturize in a completely
water-soluble and noncomedogenic medium. An oil-rich
cream that melts and liquefies on
contact with the skin’s warmth.
Provides a smooth, non-drag
medium for European style
massage.
Apply ½ tablespoon
(a walnut size
amount) to face and
upper body. For
more slip, wet hands
and continue with
massage. May be
used with the
Additives for
Aromatherapy
massage. Remove
with warm water and
sponges or steamed
towel.
A silky, water-soluble and oil-free
massage medium fortified with
calming lavender to provide longlasting slip-and-glide while
purifying skin and controlling
sebum production. Ideal for oilphobic clients and clients
experiencing breakouts and
congestion. Niacinamide, Horse
Chestnut, Yeast, Panthenol and
Caffeine regulate sebum and
acne skin conditions. Lavender
extract base effectively calms and
soothes while Panthenol (provitamin B5 provides additional
moisturization and aids in healing.
Licorice soothes irritation;
Camphor is an anti-irritant,
cooling and antibacterial.
Dispense 2 pumps
into palm of hand or
a small mixing cup.
Add 6 to 10 drops of
Purifying Botanical
Mixer and mix
together. Rub
between palms and
fingertips and apply
to skin using
massage
movements.
Remove with a
warm steam towel
or sponges.
stress relief hand and arm touch therapy – professional step by step
1.
Spreading – Press 4-6 drops of appropriate Additive or Botanical Mixer starting at wrist up to shoulder. Then
dispense a quarter sized amount of Massage Cream or 2 pumps of Oil Free Massage. Begin spreading by using
both hands, one in front of the other, fingertips face forward; Start on the hand and spread up the arm, with one
hand in front of the other and swing around the shoulder. Left hand slides along the Trapezius. Right hand slides
across the left Pectoral. Slide back down with one hand either side of the arm. x3
2.
Effleurage – full arm
a. Starting on the lateral (outside) arm, effleurage with your outside hand from the wrist up to and around the
shoulder and effleurage back down the medial (inside) of arm to the wrist; the inside hand supports the client’s
hand.
b. Repeat the same movement with your inside hand working up the medial (inside) of arm, around the shoulder
and effleurage back down the lateral (outside) of arm to the wrist, the outside hand supports the clients hand.
a.& b. = 1 movement – repeat x 3.
3.
Palmar Stroke – deltoid
Transition: Glide both hands up to the shoulder.
Circle continuously with a flat palmar surface around the deltoid muscle. The outside hand will remain in constant
contact with the skin, starting from the base of the Pectoral, up and around the Trapezius, out and down toward
the Deltoid, while the inside hand follows; continue to circle x 6.
13
stress relief hand and arm touch therapy – professional step by step
4.
Finger Frictions – Deltoid to Occipital Ridge
Transition: Cradle client’s elbow with inside arm and gently stretch the arm down to loosen the Trapezius.
a. With the outside hand apply finger frictions from the edge of the Deltoid along the Trapezius and up into the
Occipital Ridge.
b. Knead the back of neck up into the Occipital Ridge with finger and thumb frictions (stretch and hold)
c. Slide back down to the edge of the Deltoid x 3.
5.
Alternate deep kneading – upper and lower arm
Slide both hands down to upper arm and with an alternate kneading motion petrissage down the biceps and up the
triceps; up and down x3. Slide both hands down to the forearm, support the wrist with your outside hand, and using
your inner hand apply kneading movements to forearm (from elbow to wrist). Once you reach the wrist, slide your
hand back up and repeat x3.
6.
Deep petrissage – lower arm
Transition: Slide down with left palm and support client’s hand with your right hand
Turn arm outward so that palm faces up, keep the wrist and lower arm supported. Using your outside hand, circle
up with the thumb on the Palmaris Longus (lateral aspect of arm) – from wrist up to inner elbow. Then slide back
down and repeat x3. Repeat the same movement, with your inside hand and work on the Flexor Carpi Radialis
inside (medial aspect) of the client’s arm x3.
14
stress relief hand and arm treatment – professional step by step
7.
Thumb circles – wrist joint
Rotate the arm so the client’s palm faces downwards. Supporting the clients wrist, apply thumb frictions in a figure 8
around the wrist joint, move the wrist joint from left to right for increased joint mobility x6.
.
8.
Thumb circles – metacarpals, outside then inside
Support client’s hand with inside (right) hand. Start at lateral (outside) metacarpal – thumb circle from outer knuckle up
to wrist and slide back down, work across to medial (inside) metacarpal; then swap and use the right hand to complete
in between the client’s thumb and index finger. Repeat in between each metacarpal x1.
9.
Kneading thenar eminence
Using your inside hand, sandwich the client’s thenar eminence, between your thumb and fingers. Rotate fingers into
client’s thenar x3.
10.
Knuckle rotations
Start at (little finger) lateral (outside) knuckle – thumb rotations x3, from knuckle down to each hinge joint
(metacarpophanlangeal joint) ending at the fingertip, slide to base of finger and give a firm stretch and pull on the
finger. Repeat to each finger across to medial (inside), ending with the thumb. Repeat x1.
15
stress relief hand and arm touch therapy – professional step by step
11.
Thumb Frictions – to the palm
Transition – to turn the client’s palm face up.
a. Slide your right palm under their left palm; interlace your little finger of your inside (right) hand with the client’s little
and ring finger.
b. Rotate their wrist (turning the hand over)
c. Interlace your left little finger with their thumb and index finger. Open up the palm and knead a figure of eight with
the thumbs, over the entire palm focusing on areas of tension x6.
12.
Hand Hug & Joint Mobility
a. Turn the wrist - palm faces down.
b. Stretch the back of the clients hand using your thenar muscles, like ‘breaking bread’; place your fingers into their
palm x3.
c. Elevate and support client’ wrist with your right hand (inside), using your left hand clasp between the clients fingers
and rotate the wrist x3 clockwise and x3 counter-clockwise
13.
Repeat movement No.2 Effleurage x3, then follow with movement No.1 Spreading x1
Complete by stretching at the wrist and ‘sandwich off’ the hand.
14.
15.
Repeat 1-13 on the left arm.
Remove Massage Cream or Oil Free Massage with a steam towel. One side per arm.
16
extra notes:
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