In-cosmetics 2016 Innovation Seminar
Fermentation Transforming Everyday Meal into
Rejuvenating Cosmetic Ingredient
RiFerm & MYFerm
Joonseok Cha, Ph.D.
General Manager of Research Center
F80
Fermentation generally means the process by which human can get useful organic
matters from microbial metabolisms, and more specifically, biological energy
production without oxygen. Microorganisms hydrolyze organic polymers into various
smaller molecules (useful by-products) to yield energy for their growth. Korean
traditional fermentation has naturally expanded the repertoire of culinary, medicinal
and cosmetic recipes in a similar way to the production of natto or cheese.
1. Absorption Accelerated
The space between epidermal cells is only around 70 nm, limiting
the absorption of big polymers. Smaller molecules produced by the
fermentation process can pass through outer surface and reach
inner dermal cells more easily.
2. Benefits Enriched
As metabolic by-products, microorganisms can provide lots of
nutrients such as vitamins, nucleotides, oligosaccharides, amino
acids, and their derivatives.
3. Safety Enhanced
Traditional fermentation methods have been modified through
centuries to accumulate huge knowledge on the efficacy and safety
of the applications. We can make advantage of them to produce
safe ingredients while using complex natural products.
Pharmaceutical use of Pinellia ternata in Korean and
Chinese Traditional Medicine
- The toxic raw plants must be processed by fermentation.
Fermentations of Sophora flavescens and Ixeris dentata
enhanced the anti-inflammatory and the anti-allergic
effects, respectively.
- Han et al. 2011 BMC Complement Altern Med
- Park et al. 2008 J Microbiol Biotechnol
Many fermented products, however, have disadvantageous
smell, color or texture for cosmetic products.
 Optimization of fermentation condition is critical.
RiFerm
Rice has been the most important food in East Asia for thousands of years.
Rice water, light extract of rice grains by washing out loosely bound substances,
has been traditionally used as facial and hair wash for centuries by Korean women
to improve skin and hair health.
Recently, rice water is popular as natural fertilizer after treated with proper
microbes.
We successfully developed optimal condition to transform rice extract into active
cosmetic ingredient.
Product Name: RiFerm
INCI Name:
Yeast Ferment Extract/
Oryza Sative(Rice) Extract
Dosage:
10 – 100 %
Optimal Level of Microbial Growth
optimized fermentation converted
milky  transparent solution
10
After Optimized Fermentation
while keeping the
healthy growth
Log No. of CFU
Before
9
8
7
6
5
before
common
YM broth
media
rice
Rice
sup.
extract
Advantage of Fermentation
Before
After Optimized Fermentation
Light microscope 400X (KRÜSS, Germany)
Chemical Analysis of Fermentation Process
HPLC-PDA
Efficacy Tests
reduction of intracellular ROS generation
collagen-boosting after fermentation
HDFn cells
Efficacy Tests
Skin Moisturizing
8 volunteers (Age 28-41 yrs)
25
temporary monitoring
Relative permittivity (Ԑ)
20
15
Riferm
control
10
240
5
b
210
0
before
30min
1hr
3hr
b
b
5h
c
Epsilon (Biox Systems, UK)
180
RiFerm
a
Placebo
150
Long-term Analysis
(twice a day for 15 days)
120
0 day
4 day
7 day
12day
15day
Corneometer (DermaScan, Denmark)
Efficacy Tests
Skin Density & Thickness
8 volunteers (Age 28-41 yrs)
7
12
15
1100
125
*
*
600
115
105
thickness (μm)
skin density
Day 0
100
*
P value < 0.05, paired t-test, n=9
Ultrasound monitor (20MHz, resol. 60x260, DermaScan, Denmark)
RiFerm
INCI Name:
Yeast Ferment Extract / Oryza Sative (Rice) Extract
Dosage:
1-99 %
Formulation:
Add to the formulation when the temperature is lower than 55°C.
Recommended to add after the cooling process.
Storage:
Avoid direct light or UV. Keep it in a cool and dry area.
MYFerm
Undaria pinnatifida is commonly called sea mustard in English, mi-yok in Korean,
and wakame in Japanese. It is an edible brown seaweed native to and growing in
East Asia.
In traditional medicine, this seaweed is well-known for blood purification and
detoxification.
MYFerm is a liquid fermented extract of U. pinnatifida by L. acidophilus to
break down complex polymers for better penetration and absorption of active
compounds into the skin.
Product Name: MYFerm™
INCI Name:
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment
Dosage:
1–%
Story of Mi-Yok Soup
According to a Chinese history book, Chohaki (初學記)
written in the 8th century, in Korea, women delivered
a baby used to eat sea mustard soup, and the Korean
people learned this from whales eating sea mustard
to cure their wounds after giving a birth.
3
Another folklore tells about eating sea mustard soup
customs in Korea. A man swallowed by a mother whale
found that sea mustard inside of whale cured whale’s
wound. After having escaped from whale’s inside, he
1
1: A whale eating sea mustards
2: A man swallowed by a Whale
3: Sea mustard soup
1: http://m.blog.daum.net/odu1893/544
3: Naver
told the people about the efficacy of sea mustard,
2
and since that time, Korean women started to eat sea
mustard soup after giving a birth.
Mi-Yok in South Korea
1
2
Sea farming
Harvesting sea mustards by Haenyo
4
Dried sea mustards as products
Photos from Naver doopedia and The Academy of Korean Studies
3
Drying process
Lactobacillus Fermentation
The cell wall of U. pinnatifida is firm and composed of active
polysaccharides such as fucoidan and alginate approximately 20-40%.
Pretreated U. pinnatifida is fermented by L. acidophilus (2-step
process), breaking down complex polymers to improve penetration
and absorption of active compounds into the skin.
L. acidophilus
Decomposition of cell wall materials by L. acidophilus
pH changing
Phospholipid
Protein
U. pinnatifida
Fucoidan/Alginate
matrix
Lactic acid bacteria
pH value
Cellulose fibers
5
0
Raw U. pin Fermented
U. pin
Optimizing Fermentation
bacterial…
pH value
pH 5
: acidified during cell growth
0.030
AU
0.020
0.010
0.000
0.030
5.00
10.00
15.00
20.00
25.00
30.00
35.00
40.00
45.00
50.00
55.00
60.00
35.00
40.00
45.00
50.00
55.00
60.00
35.00
40.00
45.00
50.00
55.00
60.00
Minutes
AU
0.010
0.000
0.030
5.00
10.00
15.00
20.00
25.00
30.00
Minutes
0.020
AU
incubated with
pre-grown culture
0.020
0.010
0.000
5.00
10.00
15.00
20.00
25.00
30.00
Minutes
Efficacy Tests
Anti-wrinkle Effects
300
collagen-boosting after fermentation
200
150
Before Fermentation
100
After Fermentation
50
140
0
control
0.1
0.5
Concentration (%, v/v) in test medium
elastin-induction
1
120
Fastin Elastin assay
(% of control)
PIP (% of control)
250
100
80
60
40
20
0
control
treated with MYFerm
HDFn cells
MYFerm
INCI Name:
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract / Lactobacillus Ferment
Dosage:
1-99 %
Formulation:
Add to the formulation when the temperature is lower than 55°C.
Recommended to add after the cooling process.
Storage:
Avoid direct light or UV. Keep it in a cool and dry area.
RiFerm
&
MYFerm
: to make everyday your B-day
Thank you
F80