Cuba: People-to-People Trip Report
February 16 – 25, 2017 with Greg Smith
Gustavo Puig & Greg Smith, guides, with Audrey, Mike, Ron, Lilli, Gustavo, Janet, Steve, Mike, Eleanor,
Bobbie, Malcolm, Mary, Peggy, Obie, Callie, and Joyce
Thurs., Feb. 16
Santa Clara / Cayo Coco
We had lunch at that famous Presidential dining room in Little Havana called Versailles. We were going
to have a taste of Cuba before we took off for Santa Clara later in the afternoon. We arrived to find
Gustavo and Eddie our bus driver waiting, so after most exchanged dollars for CUCs, we were on the
road.
The drive before sunset gave us looks at the surrounding countryside of central Cuba. Different lifestyles
for most, and we were only one hundred miles from one of the most populous cities in the United
States. One thing about Cuba that always seems to standout is the vibrant colors of homes and
businesses as you drive through rural communities and small cities.
And then we crossed the causeway out to Caya Coco, our rooms and our Cuban dinner.
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Cuba: People-to-People Trip Report
February 16 – 25, 2017 with Greg Smith
Fri., Feb. 17
Cayo Coco / Cayo Ramon / Cayo Paredon Grande / Cayo Guillermo
A good day to be out and about before breakfast as we headed to a local night club, Cueva del Jabali, a
dance club built in underground caverns of fossilized coral. We had our local Cuban guide Oday with us,
who was determined that we get to see all that the islands had to offer. There are two endemics to the
cayos and two other birds that are easier to find
here than in other parts of Cuba: Cuban
Gnatcatcher and Oriente Warbler. We did get to
see the warbler, along with Cuban Vireo,
Western Spindalis, and Key West Quail-Dove.
Certainly a nice breakfast appetizer.
After a breakfast that only each individual could
put limits on, we were back on the bus and
heading out to Cayo Ramon. A Cuban Black Hawk
was another endemic for our list. Crested
Caracara stood out on the top of trees, while
Cuban Bullfinch were busy constructing nests. And then, in what looked like a solitary shrub next to the
road and surrounded by wetlands, out pops a Cuban Gnatcatcher. Trying to please us all, it foraged
about twenty feet from where we stood. Sweet…
So we had one more cayo to try before heading back to graze just a little more at the local buffet, and as
we drove onto Cayo Paredon Grande we started seeing more waders, herons, and egrets were in the
shade digesting their morning feasts. We stopped just short of the lighthouse and here we found one of
Cuba’s more challenging species, the Thick-billed Vireo. We saw five different birds, so this was certainly
a favored habitat.
After lunch and a short siesta we headed out to
Cayo Guillermo where we were able to add
different shorebirds to our list and then we
drove a little further west to an area across the
road from the last of the western resorts. Oday
played a tape and out popped two Bahama
Mockingbirds! One of the more challenging
species to see in Cuba, primarily because of
limited distribution and habitat disturbance. But
these two weren’t the least bit shy.
We backtracked towards Cayo Coco, but first we
had to stop at this series of shallow-water
lagoons and feast our eyes on about seventy-five stunningly pink and orange croquet gleaners. In the
late afternoon light, these American Flamingos just glowed! Really a treat to see so many and so close.
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Cuba: People-to-People Trip Report
February 16 – 25, 2017 with Greg Smith
But how can you go birding and not stop at everyone’s (maybe every bird’s) favorite spot: the
wastewater treatment plant. Here were lots of herons and egrets, shorebirds, and waterfowl. Definitely
a list-padding location with the highlight being the Giant Lizard Cuckoo perched in a tree trying to look
invisible to all of us.
Sat., Feb. 18
Trinidad / Topes de Collantes
We started early, as we had some kilometers to cover
on our way to Trinidad, a UNESCO World Heritage
Site. As we crossed the causeway we could see a
huge flock of hundreds of American Flamingos in the
distance. Red-breasted Merganser and American
White Pelican were riding the waves as we crossed to
the mainland. And then it was farm fields, towns,
and sugar cane factories that shaded the horizon.
We were in Trinidad for a late lunch and explored this
500-year old sugar baron tribute. Lunch with music
and lots of shopping opportunities provided a
different glimpse into the lives of Cubans who call a historic setting home.
It was warm in Trinidad, very warm. But Topes de Collantes is high up in the mountains and had that
wonderful feel of cool when we arrived. After a welcome drink, a number of us birded our way down to
the organic farm. We saw our first Cuban Trogon, small groups of Eastern Warbler, and a Limpkin that
jumped out in front of us. We made arrangements for some of us to be up early birding the hills before
settling down to our Los Helechos dinner.
Sun., Feb., 19
Topes de Collantes
The few that rose early for a little birding
found more in the way of warblers, along
with Cuban Oriole and Cuban Crow. All this
before breakfast and our departure to the
park.
We started off with our local guide and
walked through a coffee demonstration
garden. Although we learned a number of
things about coffee, it was the birds in this
area that kept us looking up.
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Cuba: People-to-People Trip Report
February 16 – 25, 2017 with Greg Smith
Yellow-throated Vireo, more trogons, Cuban
Pewee, Loggerhead Kingbird, Red-legged
Honeycreeper, more warblers, and Baltimore
Oriole. We finished off the hike with coffee at the
plantation house and then headed to our hilltop
restaurant where we enjoyed the view, the
American Kestrel, and the food.
We had two more stops before our day was
complete and the first was at an art museum
dedicated to Cuban artists. Mixed media and oil
painting lined the walls of this former home and it
seemed everyone had their favorite piece. One
small room had a local’s photography exhibit and
seemed to be an area with rotating shows. But
most of the pieces were there on permanent
display, and it was a treat that we got to
experience them.
Our final stop was with the Colorado family, local
farmers with warm hearts, great peanut butter
fudge, and home grown/roasted coffee. They
shared insight into their lifestyle, how and when
they harvested coffee, how much and what
quality went to the government, how they hired
the harvesters, and most interestingly, the story
of how some of the revolution was fought on and around their property. This was probably one of the
highlights of the tour, especially given the genuine feeling of
comfortableness of being with our group. Certainly a perfect finish to
our bird and coffee-laden day.
Mon., Feb. 20
Back Roads / Playa Larga
Our bus driver Eddie was a local, so taking back roads out of Topas was
easy for him. This was the first time we had found a road that was far
less traveled than the major highways. The early morning light was just
stunning on the tree-laden hillsides, with parrots and vultures
masquerading as swarms of insects.
We stopped at Las Brejemes and met up with our local guide Orlando.
After about twenty paces from the road he showed us a flock of
another endemic, the Cuban Parakeet. This was followed by a roost site
for the Cuban Bare-legged Owl.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667
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Cuba: People-to-People Trip Report
February 16 – 25, 2017 with Greg Smith
We made it down towards the south coast and
after a few hours found ourselves at Cueva de la
Pesces, a restaurant across the highway from a
popular snorkeling area on the Bay of Pigs.
But we didn’t stop for the food or the water
here, it was for birds! So after long looks at Blueheaded Quail-Dove and Cuban Green
Woodpecker, we headed to Playa Larga for lunch
at Enrique’s Paladar. Enrique’s is a regular on our
tour. If it is for lunch, there is always loads of
fish, lobster, and veggies. Add some pork, beef,
and dessert and you are pretty much set for the
afternoon.
And so the five-minute drive to this evening’s lodging gave us time to snorkel, swim, or just lay in the sun
for a couple of hours. Oh, and there were those fresh coconut drinks.
Before dinner we had a visit from Frank Medina who sits on the Board of Directors for Cuba’s National
Park System, representing Zapata National Park. A biologist by training, he shared some of the
challenges facing Cuba’s parks, a number of which were similar in nature to what our own National Park
system faces. We would see Frank again in the morning, as he would lead us on an early morning bird
walk.
Tues., Feb. 21
Korimakao / Finca
Vigia
We had an early morning
bird walk with Frank;
unfortunately, most of the
birds were being less than
vocal and not in the mood
to bounce around the trees
too much. But we did hear
a number of Cuban Pygmy
Owl, and then one decided
to land in a tree right next
to the road for us. Great
endemic to start the day.
The Korimakao Project is just ten minutes up the highway from Playa Larga and was our first stop of the
day. The Project Director met us and gave us a short introduction to what and why the project was
created. Any artist (musician, dancer, painter, writer, etc.) between the ages of 17 and 82 are welcome
Naturalist Journeys, LLC PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667
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Cuba: People-to-People Trip Report
February 16 – 25, 2017 with Greg Smith
to join the project. The caveat is that you practice with other artists and perform in rural towns and
villages so that folks that haven’t necessarily had the opportunity to experience some of the different
forms of artistic expression get to experience it. The project is funded by the government, and for the
people, of course ….
There is a woman down the street from the
Project who has turned her yard into a Bee
Hummingbird viewing area. And as we gathered
in her backyard, we could see just how
successful she was — there were at least three
of the tiniest birds in the world zooming around
with a group of Cuban Emerald.
After a very tasty lunch at Il Divino, we headed
to Hemingway’s casa, Finca Vigia. It was on the
outskirts of Havana with acreage and grounds
dotted with large trees and views. He and his
family’s tortured history were lived in the spacious house where rooms had limited visitation rights for
anyone other than Hemingway himself. The assistant museum director was our guide and shared with
us some of his intimate life-style choices, where a particular frame on a painting came from, and other
esoteric bits of information.
Then we headed up to our lodging at Soroa, the bungalows on the hill under the huge carob trees.
Cooler temperatures and very nice views of the forested hillsides.
Wed., Feb. 22 Monteciño’s Tobacco Farm / Cueva
de las Indios / Organic Farm
Today our afternoon destination was Viñales, home of Cuba’s
mogotes. The mogotes are remnant hills that were once part of a
large, elevated plateau of limestone in this part of Cuba. One of
limestone’s characteristics is that there are numerous
subterranean caverns that periodically fill with water. And
sometimes those caverns close, which is what created the
mogotes.
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Cuba: People-to-People Trip Report
February 16 – 25, 2017 with Greg Smith
But first we stopped at Montesiño’s tobacco
farm. When we arrived, he was out gathering
royal palm fronds so that they could use the
base of the leaves to cover curing tobacco
during rains. We also learned how the lower
leaves, middle leaves, and upper leaves all have
different qualities that make up a good Cuban
cigar. We watched as Montesiño rolled a fresh
cigar and put it into the press. Then a family
member lit up a few for us, and just about
everyone took a puff. That, along with an
espresso, pretty much got us rolling to Cueva de
los Indios to look for the Cuban Solitaire.
Our first goal was to try and locate the endemic Cuban Solitaire, a bird that frequents the steep-sided
mogotes. We searched long and hard for this bird, and could hear it calling numerous times somewhere
is the vegetated hillsides above us. Then we spotted the bird out on a branch playing call and response
with Gustavo’s tape. That was pretty quick and easy compared to other years, and gave us enough time
to ride the motorized boats through one of the underground caverns that was home to a free-flowing
river. There were lots of bats and cave features, especially for those who had never had the opportunity
to be in a cave.
Next up was lunch at an organic farm where there were prodigious amounts of food. We made it inside
the paladar just before it started a good, heavy downpour. First, we had the customary organic daiquiri
with special herbs.
The customary bottle of rum was placed on the table for those to “sweeten” their drink. From a whole
barbequed pig, to loads of vegetables, more meats, yaro chips, and some very tasty flan, nobody left
hungry.
Two more stops before we headed back to Soroa.
First, just up the hill from the farm were some
higher elevation pines. And here we looked for
and found Olive-capped Warbler and another
Yellow-headed Warbler. The Olive-capped is
another near-endemic in Cuba and was very
cooperative so that all of us could get great looks!
Our second stop was on the National Highway
heading back to our lodge. We pulled over to the
side of the road near a fish farm where we got to
see four Snail Kite, eleven Swallow-tailed Kite,
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Cuba: People-to-People Trip Report
February 16 – 25, 2017 with Greg Smith
and four Limpkin. What a great little stop, with the Swallow-tailed Kite flock being totally unexpected.
Thurs., Feb. 23
Orchid House / Las Terrazzas /
Havana
A few of us got up before dawn to look for the
Stygian Owl, as the morning before we had been
rained out. Although it was still damp from the
rains, there were stars overhead. Unfortunately
none of us had any luck with the owl, although
we did hear Black-crowned Night-Heron croaking
down by the creek. After breakfast we loaded
our bags and then walked over to the adjacent
orchid house, a private estate built prior to the
revolution and designed to house one man’s
passion for orchids. It was a wonderful use of the extant limestone to display orchids, begonias, and
many other plant species.
We spent about ninety minutes touring the grounds, getting good looks at Summer Tanager, Red-legged
Honeycreeper, and male Cape May Warbler. After a group photo, we headed to our next stop, all the
while driving through a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Las Terrazas is a “gated” community, certainly
dis-similar to what we might find back home.
Only residents are allowed in, and visitors with
the proper identification. It is also a planned
community with less than 2000 residents, and
with the lake surrounded by homes, businesses,
and lush vegetation, it is a pretty idyllic setting.
And yes, others are vying for the opportunity to
live here and enjoy the surroundings.
We were welcomed by the Assistant Principal of
the local school and she shared with us how
students are motivated through education. After
presenting her with school supplies that a
number of people brought from home, we
toured the school and then made our way over
to the community proper.
At the local coffee shop we each had choices of
different cold and hot beverages with the instant
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Cuba: People-to-People Trip Report
February 16 – 25, 2017 with Greg Smith
hit being the Las Terrazzas. This cold drink had dark chocolate and coffee as the base with a little shaved
cardamom as a topping. This was the perfect setup for folks to open their wallets at the home of a
family, who as a unit, were painters, wood carvers, and a seamstress. There
were very few who didn’t buy anything.
Lunch was on the front porch of an older simulated French farmhouse that was once headquarters to a
coffee plantation. A wonderful view of the Caribbean was
another plus, as we ate our meal to the music provided by a
family that played and sang together. Really a very nice setting!
We finished out hilltop visit with some birding where we got
just stunning looks at Black-throated Green Warbler and a pair
of Stripe-headed Tanager. Further up the hill we got more looks
at Yellow-headed Warbler, Red-legged Honeycreeper, and the
ubiquitous, but very good looking, Red-legged Thrush.
After a short drive down the hill we picked up our last endemic
of the trip, Cuban Grassquit. A local farm had been putting out
cracked corn, and there was a flock of about forty birds that
also included the more common Yellow-faced Grassquit along
with the endemic.
The drive into Havana took a while as we drove from the west
into and along the Malecón. We arrived at the Melia Cohiba and
melted into our updated hotel, very much enjoying some of the creature comforts we hadn’t
experienced over the last eight days.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667
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Cuba: People-to-People Trip Report
February 16 – 25, 2017 with Greg Smith
Fri., Feb. 24 Cigar Factory / Bella Arts Museum / Historic Center / San José
Artist Colony / Colon Cemetery / Revolution Square / Buena Vista Social Club
Today was our busiest day, so after an extraordinary breakfast buffet we headed off to a down cigar
factory. There was row after row of tables, each with an individual person, different piles of tobacco,
and cigar trays. Each person had a different order for quantity, quality, and sizes. Their day was spent
filling the world’s order of Cuban cigars. So to coincide with the law of supply and demand, we next
made our way to a government cigar store.
Next stop was the Bella Arts Museum where we were given a tour by one of the staff. A tour that most
of us felt was one of the best we had ever experienced, given the exploration of Cuban art and specific
artists that she led us down. You could walk the periods of Cuban artistic expression, while at the same
time feel the changing of the individual artist’s mood, all through the art placed on the walls and our
guide’s understanding and sense of interpretation.
We finished the morning with Gustavo’s classic interpretive walk of the historic center of Havana.
Through different periods of colonialism and architectural design trends, he walked us through what
seemed like a myriad of alleys and roads constructed of cobblestone, wood, and pavement. We ended
up at one of the best restaurants for the trip, the La Modeña Cubana.
Next up was the artist colony at one of the
old tobacco warehouses. There are lots of
tourist t-shirts, etc., here, but there is also
lots of original art and crafts. So depending
on your need for gifts or wall adornment,
some were able to finish their shopping lists
down here on the waterfront.
Our brief walking tour of the cemetery with
our guide gave us insight into cultural norms
based on religion, century, and wealth.
Individuals from the past had different
interpretations of how they wanted to be
memorialized, with probably the most
remembered being the memorial to a
catastrophic number of firemen’s deaths.
Our final stop before heading back to the
Melia Cohiba was Revolution Square, lined
on three sides by government buildings and
on the fourth by the Monument to the
Revolution. Pictures of the monument and
the classic Yankee cars (that looked as if
Naturalist Journeys, LLC PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667
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Cuba: People-to-People Trip Report
February 16 – 25, 2017 with Greg Smith
they had been driven off of a car sales lot) finished our day. But we still had the evening.
Dinner tonight was at the Buena Vista Social Club, now known as Café Tabernera; lots of food, plenty of
opportunities to taste rum in different mixes, and dancing in the back to live salsa music. It was a long
day, and we covered lots of ground; it was time to head back to get some sleep.
Sat., Feb. 25 Miami Flight / Fairchild Tropical Botanical Gardens
Airline schedule challenges had us flying out in the morning, so that gave us an afternoon in Miami. We
headed over to these world-class botanical gardens and just let ourselves fall back into a state where
smelling the roses was all we had to assess. This was a great way to finish our tour before heading off to
an Italian dinner where we said our goodbyes. Flights out for some started at six in the morning.
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