TURKMENISTAN No Boom for the People and is named after the mother of the country’s first president, Saparmurat Niyazov, killed along with her husband in the 1948 quake, which killed two-thirds of the city’s inhabitants. The city now has an array of hotels including two in the five-star category. There are major thoroughfares and Turkmenistan President Gurbanghuli Berdymukhamedov For decades, Turkmenistan was a poor Soviet backwater. But in recent years, led by new President pictured last August during inauguration ceremonies for a new Ashgabat building. an international airport (also the “Turkmenbashi”), all of them built in anticipation of an era of businessmen and tourists that has yet to begin. Now, in 2012, after the so-called “New Era of Revival” begun under the leadership of the Turkmenbashi, and which saw the transformation of the city skyline, the country has officially entered the “Time of Power and Happiness.” This, at least, is the view of two-time president Gurbanghuli, Berdymukhamedov, re-elected in February of Gurbanghuli, Berdymukhamedov, the authoritarian country has become a major player on the Central Asian natural gas scene. Whether any of the cash flowing into Ashgabat will go to help a backward I by Piero Sinatti remember visiting newly independent Turkmenistan in the early 1990s. At the time, it was a remote nation with a population of five million sitting on some of the richest global gas reserves on the planet, located between the Caspian Sea, Iran, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Afghanistan. Its capital of Ashgabat, population 700,000, seemed like a shapeless gray creation left over from the shabby Soviet outskirts, coated with the powdery sand from the Karakumy Desert near the foothills of the Kopet-Dag. The city, devastated by a 1948 earthquake, was rebuilt soon thereafter. I recall badly paved full and potholed streets with few cars and many trucks. At night the city was nearly pitch black. Housing was mostly late Stalinist tenements and Khrushchyovka, cement or brick-paneled homes from the 1950s. In narrow alleys were homes with no windows on the street, and behind them small, wall-enclosed gardens. Even government housing was modest, compared with the imposing structures in Tashkent and Alma Ata. I remember visiting the dingy offices of the newly appointed foreign minister, filled with wary and laconic Turkmen officials. A Russian diplomat sat at an empty desk in a corner of the room, seemingly ready to flee the country at a moment’s notice. Russians, Ukrainians and Caucasians had all been stripped of their jobs and positions. 100 The only hotel for foreigners was four stories high and had cramped rooms and dirty windows. The bathtub taps gushed blackish water. Cockroaches scurried around the bathtub. At the reception, the elderly European hotel attendants wore slippers and disheveled clothing. A new profile shgabat, founded as a fortress city by the Russians in 1887, has undergone radical changes. The city now boasts modern skyscrapers and impressive public buildings, with a mix of kitsch neo-classical and Muslim architecture. The new presidential palace, made entirely from marble, is topped by a golden dome, surrounded by colonnades, its grounds rich in constantly replenished pools of water. The central mosque, the Turkmenbashi (“Father of All Turkmen”), also has a golden dome A TURKMENISTAN AREA 488,1 km2 POPULATION 4.500.000 MEAN AGE 24.3 years RELIGION Sunni Muslim GDP 15,1 billion € GDP PER CAPITA 2,773.8 billion € GDP GROWTH 9.2% INFLATION RATE 4.5% Ap Photo citizenry remains dubious. 2010 data. Source IMF, World Economic Outlook east . crossroads europe number 41 . april 2012 101 last year with 97.1 percent of the votes. In December 2006, he suddenly and somewhat shadily succeeded longtime President Saparmurat Niyazov, who died on Dec. 21, 2006 at age 66 after having ruled the country since its 1991 independence. Before the collapse of Soviet Union, after a childhood spent in an orphanage (his father died in World War II, his mother in the earthquake), Niyazov was all but reared in the context of the Turkmen Communist Party organization. He became party leader in 1990. When the country became independent following the Soviet collapse, Niyazov transformed the Communist Party into the Democratic Party. ritory to U.S. military bases in Central Asia. Niyazov worked to maintain balanced relations with Moscow, which remained his country’s largest trading partner and the leading supplier of weapons to the weak Turkmen army. Moscow also acted as tacit guarantor of the country’s regional security. Time of Transition The New Renaissance iyazov ruled country, the most outlying, backward and poorest Soviet state, with a despot’s zeal. He established a personality cult and systematically repressed of all dissent, exercising total control over media, police and armed forces. His was a country that, like many others in the former USSR, was entirely unequipped to handle its unexpected independent status. The Soviet legacy left Turkmenistan with an economy dominated by a single large industry, natural gas. After that was a weak output of chemicals, cotton and agriculture products, the backward raising of livestock and traditional handicrafts, including carpets and the weaving of fine fabrics. Most of the largely rural population was ethnically and linguistically of Turkmen origin, with some Mongol and Persian influences (Ashgabat is only 250 kilometers from Iran’s second largest city, Mashhad). Most of Turkmenistan’s inhabitants survived on subsistence farming. Consumer goods to the country’s few cities were and are still imported. Niyazov made few changed to the rural economy but brought all gas production under his direct control, putting it the hands of a state-owned monopolist called “Turkmengaz,” whose financial transparency was at best opaque and relied on him for direction and orders. Gas soon became the basis of his unlimited personal power. Media reports outside the country suggested that large portions of proceeds from gas sales ended up in off shore family accounts in his name or those of his family members. Huge portion of the gas proceeds were also used as part Getty Images / Afp / V. Oseledko N 102 pon Niyazov’s death, Berdymukhamedov, a former dentist, health minister and presidential protégé, took over immediately. Much about the succession remains obscure. Some say Berdymukhamedov is Niyazov’s illegitimate son, since the two men have a marked physical resemblance. Born in 1959, Berdymukhamedov is officially the son of a prison guard colonel. The leadership change was made official after elections held in February 2007, which gave Berdymukhamedov 89 percent of the national vote, a paltry figure compared to those of his predecessor, who never failed to “win” near total unanimity (Niyazov declared himself president for life in 1999). Early into his first five-year term, the now 54-year-old Berdymukhamedov seemed a little like the Nikita Khrushchev of Turkmenistan. Among his first executive decisions was the removal of some of grosser personality cult monuments that Niyazov had erected throughout Ashgabat, including the huge golden statue to the city center. The statue rotated by day so that the face of the statue was always illuminated by sun. He also repealed some of Niyazov’s more unpopular measures, including public spending cuts, a reduction in village medical facilities (the seriously ill were mostly compelled to get Ashgabat, despite distance and bad roads), and a planned two-year reduction in compulsory education. He also repealed a plan that would have abolished pensions for the elderly with children (Niyazov thought children should be compelled to ensure the health and wellbeing of their parents, a staple in patriarchal societies). But Berdymukhamedov refused to concede an inch on civil and political rights, nor would he give up total control over the media. Internet connections are costly and difficult to obtain. They are also strictly monitored. Worse, he’s gradually replaced the Niyazov personality cult with one of his own. He’s put aside the huge gold- U of the lavish reconstruction of the capital, a project dedicated to the honor of his family (he again cited the Turkmenbashi legacy) and to the “New Renaissance” of the country, which he identified with his person. As he began his ambition project, gas remained under the control of the Russian corporation Gazprom, which monopolized the country’s pipelines and ensured that 90 percent of Turkmenistan total natural gas output would flow to Russia. Niyazov was able to hike the price paid by Gazprom to his advantage. In 2003, the two states signed a 25-year deal the called for an annual delivery of 50-60 billion cubic meters of gas to Russia. Even in advance of that deal, Gazprom was still maneuvering to dictate pricing terms and conditions. Working to Diversify N iyazov soon came to a fundamental conclusion: The only way take the natural gas supply out of east . crossroads europe Turkmen wearing traditional headgear. Moscow’s strangling hands was for Turkmenistan to diversify its outlets on international markets. In the 1990s, he began negotiations with Beijing for the construction of a pipeline to China. A joint pipeline project with the Chinese was agreed to in 2006, during one of Niyazov rare trips outside the country, which came only months before his death. But with the completion of a short pipeline into northern Iran, which soon became a leading trade partner, Ashgabat began the diversification process. Gazprom longtime monopoly on the country’s gas riches began coming to an end. Niyazov chose a path of strict neutrality, which it made official in 1995 at the United Nations. The choice was welcomed by both Moscow and Beijing, since it meant resisting pressure from the United States to open its ter- number 41 . april 2012 103 devastated Abadan, which has some 50,000 inhabitants. The Berdymukhamedov government tried concealing the event, but Russian satellite TV, the only outside source of information for Turkmens, had already aired video of the explosion filmed by locals and posted to Youtube. For the first time since the country’s independence, protests arose. People demanded to know just what had happened. But details provided by national media were scarce and repetitive. Officially, the defense minister was sacked and military officials deemed responsible for the explosions were sentenced to long prison terms. Berdymukhamedov assured the country that Abadan was completely rebuilt as soon as possible. Suddenly faced with a tense situation, an unprecedented event in the buttoned-down country, Berdymukhamedov invited exiled representatives of the opposition to en statue in favor of a network of towering posters that bear his image and dedicate all progress to his good will. In 2011 the country’s Assembly of Elders (“aksakaly”) proclaimed him “Hero of the Nation” and determined he should be addressed as “Serdar Akbar” (Great Leader) or “Arkadag” (Protector). His book, entitled “Towards New Heights of Progress” has replaced Niyazov’s book of cult sayings, the infamous “Rukhnama” (The Book of the Soul), whose study was made an obligatory part of citizenship and taught in the country’s schools. As if that wasn’t enough, Niyazov ensured a copy of the book was sent into orbit on a Russian satellite. Abadan Blast I n Feb. 7-8, 2011, a series of potent explosions destroyed a large munitions dump in the city of Abadan, located only 25 kilometers from the capital. The blast return home and participate in presidential elections of 2012. None of them, he said, should fear arrest or persecution, though a number had been farcically convicted of terrorism in absentia. Berdymukhamedov insisted he would personally guarantee their safety. 2012 Elections ew believed in the sincerity of Berdymukhamedov’s invitation to return and little was done to reassure the exiles of the government’s commitment. The more well-known regime opponents in exile (including former Culture Minister Geldymurat Nurmukhammedov, in Vienna, and former Deputy Prime Minister Khudaiberdy Orazov, in Sweden) received no word from local Turkmen consulate when they asked how to obtain visas (let alone reassurances of personal safety) in the event they wished to return and participate in the vote. F The move was little more than a blatant propaganda effort to calm the waters in the aftermath of explosions, a clumsy attempt to minimize its importance and divert public interest. It may also have been a trap. Since none of the exiles returned, the question is moot. Berdymukhamedov did not renew his invitation. As a result, the Feb. 12 elections, like those held five years before, were tantamount to theater of the absurd, part of a face-saving effort to persuade a skeptical West (which is in fact far more concerned about the gas than human rights) that Turkmenistan has staged something resembling a democratic vote, which was nonsense. After his victory, Berdymukhamedov said he intended to transform the country into a multiparty state, another dubious promise based on past experience. The vote saw the “Hero” face seven “alternative candidates,” two more than the 2007 vote. They were choLEFT Gilded statue of the late Saparmurat Niyazov, taken down in 2005. CENTER View of Ashgabat. BELOW Incumbent President Gurbanghuli Berdymukhamedov on horseback during 104 east . crossroads europe number 41 . april 2012 Ap Photo Ap Photo / B. Herman Getty Images / Afp / V. Oseledko opening ceremonies of the Ashgabat “Olympic Complex.” 105 The China Card ut the Berdymukhamedov’s natural gas policies have witnessed notable successes. The country’s 2011 gas output almost doubled and GDP growth was pegged at nine percent. In recent years, Turkmen reserves also received a boost from the influential UK-based energy-auditing firm of Gaffney, Cline & Associates, which in 2008 and again in 2011 confirmed the country contained as yet untapped resources. The largest deposit, Iolotan-South, was discovered in 2006 and is located in the southeast of the country some 350 kilometers from Ashgabat near the Afghan border. Add to that two more deposits at Yashlar and Minara, in the country’s Mary province (they cover 3,000 kilometers in all), and reserves are calculated at approximately 26 trillion cubic meters of gas, or 70 percent of total Turkmenistan reserves through 2011. The entire underground complex was named “Galkynysh,” or rebirth. China’s entry into the market has been vital. Between 2008 and 2009, the two countries confirmed a bilateral deal to build a direct pipeline from the Turkmen gas ter- B 106 minal at Semandepe to Xinjiang long the left bank of the Amu Darya River that runs through Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan before reaching entering the Chinese northwest. The first leg of the pipeline (1,883-kilometers) was inaugurated in December 2009 in a joint ceremony that included Berdymukhamedov, Chinese President Hu Jintao of Presidents, Uzbek President Islam Karimov and Kazak President Nursultan Nazarbayev. With the completion of the remaining three segments planned for 2012-2013, the pipeline will soon start delivering 30 to 40 billion cubic meters of gas to China. This has helped China adopt policies that will reduce reliance on polluting coal. In addition its Turkmen supply, China will receive 10 billion cubic meters of gas annually from Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. Not only that, China’s state-owned Chinese National Petroleum Company ( CNPC), which will operate the pipeline, won the tender to explore and exploit the Galkynysh reserves, along with companies from Japan, South Korea and the United Arab Emirates. Turkmenistan already hosts between 3,000 and 5,000 Chinese specialists, technicians and workers. Overall, Beijing has invested about $12 billion dollars in natural gas over the last two years, becoming Ashgabat’s leading partner and a key player in the Central Asian energy market. The move has major geopolitical implications and is likely to change the way politics is conducted in the region. Since CNPC joined with Kazakh KazMunay to build the immense Kazakhstan-Xinjiang (Atyrau-Alanshankou) pipeline between 2003 and 2009 that links Kazakh Caspian Sea reserves to China, it’s fair to say that Moscow has lost the upper hand in the region, and the decline began with Turkmenistan. A mysterious April 2009 explosion on the Turkmen gas pipeline leading to Russia evidenced strong disagreements between Moscow and Ashgabat on gas prices and diversification strategies. t the time, Gazprom halted gas Turkmen purchases, which resumed in December 2010. But the new annual volume was lower by 50 billion cubic meters that the original 2003-2009 deal struck by Russian President Vladimir Putin and Berdymukhamedov, with the annual flow reduced to 20-30 billion cubic meters. A east . crossroads europe A woman votes during February presidential elections in Abadan, 25 kilometers from Ashgabat. tatives from those countries signed a preliminary agreement for the building of the so-called TAPI (the acronym is the initials of the four countries involved). It would move Turkmen gas to each of the four states and reach the Indian Ocean. Like Nabucco, the project enjoys strong U.S. backing that dates to the 1990s. Tehran has also Turkmenistan’s way. In 2010 it complete a second pipeline from Turkmenistan to northern Iran with an annual gas capacity of 8 billion cubic meters. Whatever the criticism of Berdymukhamedov, it is clear Turkmenistan’s importance has grown in the international arena. Unlike his predecessor, he often travels abroad, meeting heads of state, government as well as representatives of large energy corporations. Market diversification, long an aspiration, has increased the country’s bargaining power compared to the Niyazov days. But whether revenue received from exports will translate into projects aimed at diversifying and modernizing the country’s backward and gas-dependent economy is an unanswered question. As it stands now, living standards, consumption level, wages and salaries remain profoundly low, estimated at between $100 and $200 a month. The country is in desperate need of domestic investment. Using the Niyazov legacy as a standard, there is no reason to assume the country’s newfound revenue stream won’t be squandered or redirected so that it benefits only the country’s elite and powerful. Civil and political rights, as well as freedom of the press, require the existence of a middle class that for now doesn’t exist. As a result, there’s every reason to believe that authoritarianism and personality cult leadership is destined to endure in the years ahead. "Democracy,” Berdymukhamedov is alleged to have said recently, “will be found not at the beginning, but at the end of our journey.” Getty Images / Afp / Str sen from among governing ministers, officials and ordinary citizens plucked from Soviet-style mass organizations. These seven did everything but speak on their own behalf. Instead, they praised Berdymukhamedov and spoke instead on behalf of their specific interests. None expressed even the slightest reservation for the president. In all, they received 2.86 percent of the vote, a more Niyazov-style tally. As always, total unanimity was avoided. The Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) didn’t bother sending observers, since the Paris-based group doesn’t consider the country a democracy. Observers sent from Moscow and elsewhere in the Russian Federation praised the vote for its fairness, transparency, having given citizens the right to express themselves. The U.S. State Department had little to say about the outcome, as did the European Union’s Foreign Affairs Commission. Berdymukhamedov was fervently congratulated by Beijing. A few days before the vote, the country closed off all land borders and increased security checks at the Ashgabat, a full-fledged effort to keep mobile phones and other electronic devices out of the country. Other players eijing push on the new pipeline as well as its involvement in the Galkynish exploration moved the EU and U.S. to revive a project that seemed archived, namely the construction of the Nabucco pipeline, projected to run from the Caspian and South Caucasus. Nabucco is intended to bring natural gas from Turkmenistan to Austria. Plans call for it to run 3,900-kilometers with a maximum capacity of 31 billion cubic meters annually. It’s expected to cost some $12 billion and require four years, 2013-2017, to complete. It would bypass Russia, which is understandably hostile to the project. Nabucco has won backing from Ashgabat, whose gas is critical to its success. But bank funding isn’t easy in a time of global financial crisis and recession. Turkmenistan is also interested in forging gas deals with Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India. In 2010, represen- B number 41 . april 2012 . 107
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