The first step into this wonderful and lovely journey through your personal universe to shape a successful
professional image is to exactly understand which your bests are and which are the parts of your body
which must be emphasize and which must be hidden. In order to do this I will show you next the 6 basis
considered silhouettes as well as tricks and advises to transform them from the visual point of view.
As I have already mentioned there are 6 silhouettes types established and accepted by the fashion
industry. Around them are being created different pattern which are the basis of every clothing
items.
EGG-SHAPED - the shoulders breadth is equal with the hips one, and the outline at the body level tends
to widened itself, and to exceed the shoulders’ breadth without marking the waist position
RECTANGULAR - the shoulders breadth is equal with the hips one, and with the body
SAND-GLASS - the shoulders breadth is equal with the hips one, but at the body level the lines are
thinner evidencing the waist, and widen afterwards in a line shape towards the hips.
TRIANGULAR – the shoulders breadth is considerably narrower then the hips one, stressing the hips
level, and the waist is unmarked.
INVERSE TRIANGULAR – the shoulders breadth is wider than the hips one, stressing the shoulders level
THE 8 FIGURE – is very similar with the sand-glass one. In the case of the 8 Figure the body is much
narrower at the waist level than the shoulders or hips breadth, the last ones being approximately equals.
The evident difference between the two silhouettes is being represented by the upper part of the body,
from shoulders to waist, as well as by the lower one, from waist to shoulders which is plumper, having a
circle tendency.
I have tried to describe these silhouettes in a very simple manner using the geometrical shapes in order
for you to easier identify in what category you fit in. If you don’t know your body measures I would
recommend using a tailor metre. You should keep in mind that the measures may be slightly different
from the shoulders level to the hips one, with the silhouette still enclosed within the rectangular, eggshaped or sand-glass depending on the shape of the body.
I would like to underline a certain aspect before going further. This exercise has as target enclosing your
body within the respective silhouette in order you to search for the precise clothing objects which adjust
your shapes when choosing your outfit so that you’re final outfit may complimented you. It is very
important to understand and accept your body as it is because only in this manner you can properly dress
yourself, and the final effect would be the anticipated one. Yet, remember there is a size for every
silhouette. If you’re content or not with your body size you should set out by yourself what measures to
take in order to improve the situation, when you think it is necessary. For sure, regardless the size the
natural silhouette of your body remains the same.
It is possible some of you to discover that you‘re fitting between two silhouettes. I will approach also these
situations as well as the outfits which emphasize every one of the silhouettes.
There is also the possibility that some of you to think some of the silhouettes are more evidencing the
message you’d like to transmit than the one in which you’re fit in. It is very possible! There is also a
solution for this situation as well. And you’ll find it in the next paragraphs because every and each one of
the silhouette is being described and illustrated. The advices for optical transformation of a silhouette into
another are also described.
THE EGG-SHAPE SILHOUETTE
The first and maybe the most important recommendation in this case is to use large sizeable clothing
items which are not emphasizing the body lines and which have the length just little on the hips level.
These items must also have lateral seaming which follows the body shape without enlarge it.
Basic rules which a egg-shape silhouette person must take care when choosing the clothing
items:
Medium long dresses which may cover the knee with a waist down to the hips level
Medium large blouses, but not flared or with gores, long up to the middle of the hips wearing with
skirt in small conic shape or with trousers in Capri type
The recommended lounge jackets are those uncurbed long up to the hips level
Cardigan type jackets must be long and eventually with scarf collar
TO BE AVOIDED: shirts, vests, any type of top wearing on trousers or skirt, sweater or short
cardigans up to the waist level
The textiles which put advantage on egg-shape silhouettes are very important. Thus, I recommend
avoiding the textiles which contain elastane because being elastic have the tendency to tight on the body
shape emphasizes them. A great attention must be also paid in choosing the knitting because these have
the tendency to tight on one hand, and on the other hand the cuddly ones are visible enlarging the
silhouette.
You should also take into consideration the colours of your clothing which must be suitable for you, and
not the least the accessories which you match with.
Regarding the colours I recommend to match them by overlapping the darken colours’ shades, in one
piece, with lounge jackets or jackets in more fair complementary colours’ shades. It is extremely important
that your clothing object on top is not a one that can be closed, hidding thus the real shape of the body
and waist absence.
You should not stick with the wrong impression that patterns are to be avoided! Not whatsoever! A dress
like this in a colour with a dark shade with a vertical thin stripes pattern and not very tawdry are in the
egg-shape silhouettes advantage. A blouse which has a wide stripe on the middle in contrast with the rest
of the clothing wear with a skirt or trousers unisex is also a very good option. And the examples can
continue.
However, what you should keep in mind that this type of silhouette is being mainly emphasized by the
vertical patterns. The smaller patterns which are not in contrast are also a good option. Yet, avoid the
floral and circular patterns. These can be chosen only if are used to emphasize something and must
obligatory centrally and vertical inserted in a dress or blouse.
The tops with “fallen” shoulders without seam on their level or lower situated are also representative for
this type of silhouette which maintain its natural shape when in the case of wearing conic skirts or balloon
type dresses. The boat type collar line is also emphasizing the egg-shape silhouette.
Regarding the casual outfits I recommend tights, jeans, sport outfit etc which match with a male casual
shirts (these are longer are larger, and the length of the sleeves can by fixed just in case), medium long
dresses or mini ones, but not shorter than the hips level, cotton cardigans/jackets etc.
TRICKS
Now, that you understood the basic rules for choosing the suitable outfits for persons who wish to hide
the egg-shape silhouette line, I will explain several tricks which can help in visual transformation of this
type of silhouette.
Thus, taking into account the rules which are applying to the suitable outfits for an eggshape silhouette – but emphasizing and enlarging the shoulders dimensions in order to
equals the waist one – your silhouette egg-shape natural born will look like a rectangular one.
This can be easily got. Either you’ll use double shoulders jackets - and thus
emphasizing/enlarging – or you double this by yourself using fake textile or sponge shoulders
which can be bought from the market in specialized stores. The straight dresses with a
similar effect of enlarged shoulders line and with liniar vertical seams or ornamental add also
creates the impression of a rectangular silhouette.
Although a little bit difficult but not impossible the egg-shape silhouette may look as in a
optical illusion like sand-glass one. The trick you must use is to choose for a fan dresses
which emphasize the upper part of the silhouette. Another trick is to wear low waist dresses
or skirts with inset and pleated. The sleeves must be flared creating a waist illusion. It is a
difficult task but worth trying. To emphasize the effect you can also decide for textile different
in texture and colour. The body of the clothing item must be in one colour from a gossamer
textile, and it is preferable a darken shade with pattern on the flare part of the dress and
sleeves.
The slightly flared dresses enough made to cover the body and, optionally, with a high
waist line under the chest is transforming the oval silhouette into a triangular one.
The inverse triangular silhouette is being obtained by the shoulder size and by
emphasizing them. It can be also got by narrowing the skirt or the lower part of the dress.
The waist can be distinct or emphasized.
The egg-shape silhouette is very difficult to be transformed into a 8 shape silhouette,
almost impossible even for the specialists.
THE RECTANGULAR SILLHOUETTE
For some of you who may fit into this category there are some rules to be followed in order to keep the
silhouette natural line:
Emphasize the body linearity by outfits with a vertical shape given by the clothing item
fashion, by seams even though these are just ads
The shoulders line must not be emphasized or distinguished
Avoid the clothing items with an accent on the waist line. The waist can be distinct with an
ads or through a seam only in the case where the waist naturally exists without ravishing it
It is recommended that the skirts or dresses lower part to be straight and a little bit conic
The lounge jackets and jackets length must overtake the waist level and can be as long as
the hips level. It is good to decide over the clothing item with hidden pockets and to avoid the add
pockets
TO BE AVOIDED: clothing items with the hang baggily or loose sleeves, hang baggily or Turkish
trousers, curbed lounge jackets, jackets and tops.
The selected colours and patterns can be vast. There are only few restrictions and these are targeting
only the office outfit rules by comparing with the ones applicable to the rectangular silhouettes.
A similar situation can be encountered in the textile case. Are to be avoided the ones which includes
plenty of elastane. The recommended ones are those textiles which maintain the clothing item shape and
the size even though when it is not dressed on.
TRICKS
The transformation of a natural shaped silhouette into a different one is a very complicate exercise but
funny and provocative. The outcome can be very surprising without mentioning that it helps to increase
your wardrobe. It can offer solutions when everything from the cupboard is ‘old’ and ‘boring’. Yet, let’s go
through how to discover the ways to ‘deceive’ the eye...
To transform a rectangular silhouette into an egg-shape one I will recommend deciding
for tops or dresses which don’t have seams at the shoulders level, thus rounding the arms
and shoulders line. Matching two different colours or two different shades of the same colour
helps in emphasizing this impression with only one condition. The sleeves must be light in
terms of colours and shades. It is important that sleeves and dresses to have a high waist
seam, without emphasize it with ornamental seams, with egg-shape or balloon type shape.
Sand-glass silhouette can be get by emphasizing the shoulders size as well as by
deciding for flared or fan type skirts and dresses.
The trousers which are large on waist level or even slightly flared also help in creating the
sand-glass silhouette impression. So that the optical illusion must be perfect it is better that
the outfit upper part, shirts, tops, lounge jackets or jackets to create a diagonal lines in order
to distract the attention from the missing waist.
First, in order to get a triangular silhouette impression the shoulders must look narrower.
This effect is being obtained by oblique cuts at the shoulders level between the collar and
underarm line, and by combining two similar shades of the same colour. It is also suitable the
seam for tuxedo vest. To complete the image of a triangular outfit the skirts or dress must at
the same time have a low waist, and to be enlarged in circumference at the hem level.
The inverse triangular silhouette is being obtained by the shoulder size and by
emphasizing them. It can be also got by narrowing the skirt or the lower part of the dress.
The waist can be distinct or emphasized.
Comparing to the egg-shape silhouette, the rectangular one can be transformed into a 8
figure one. The tricks you need to take into account are: round the shoulders line (choose
clothing items with ‘fallen’ shoulders which means the seams line between the shoulder and
sleeve must be lower than the normal one, without any double seam at the shoulders level
and with simple seams), choose for egg-shape skirts and en emphasize the waist.
THE SAND-GLASS SILHOUETTE
This silhouette type is the most wanted due to the fact that is being considered the ‘ideal’. This is the main
silhouette used and promote by designers in their catwalk creations.
Therefore, you must remember the majority of the catwalk creations stay within that stage. To
reach the shops these creations are being transformed so that can fit every buyer, or at the
majority. Besides this aspect, you already noticed the silhouette can be modified by using small tricks so
that everyone may look like having a sand-glass one.
This being said, let’s see what are the characteristic of this silhouette and which clothing items are
defining it.
As I have already mentioned at the beginning of this chapter, the sand-glass silhouette is being defined
by the fact that the distance between the shoulders and hips is equal, and the waist is obviously narrower
comparing to them. Don’t take it wrong! The sand-glass silhouette doesn’t mean ’90-60-90’! As long as
the disclosed principle is being followed every person regardless the weight and circumference can fit
within the sand-glass silhouette frame.
The unquestionable prove of this fact is there is more sizes for the same pattern/items of cloths.
The most encountered outfits on the sand-glass silhouette are emphasized at the waist level which is
obviously much thinner than the distance between the shoulders and the hips. The sand-glass silhouette
is at the same time the most permissive among its kind because there are only several clothing items not
suitable for it.
There is a similar situation regarding patterns and the textile type. The restrictions especially appear in
case of patterns depending by the woman height and/or sizes. Other restrictions are generally
conditioned by the rules for office and business outfits. You’ll get close with these restrictions by reading
this clothing guide.
TRICKS
To transform a sand-glass silhouette into a egg-shape one the shoulders line must be
rounded, the waist must be either ignored or hidden, and the skirt line or the lower part of the
dress must be narrowed/shrink up to the hem line. I recommend both one colour for this
transformation as well as patterns, especially the round ones.
The rectangular silhouette is being obtained from the sand-glass one by emphasizing the
shoulders line and by adopting shapeless outfit which can cover the waist line without distinct it,
and thus creating an impression of the geometrical item that gave the name if this silhouette.
These are the tricks which transform the sand-glass silhouette into a triangular one: very
large skirts, fan type one, starting from the waist and the tops with diagonal seams between the
collar and underarm are in the front and the shoulders line must not be underlined. This effect
can be also emphasized by a proper use of colours and textiles. Thus, if for the outfit upper side
one may choose for a darken shade colour, and if for the lower part for a lighter, floral pattern or
geometric gossamer textile, the illusion of a triangular silhouette is more powerful.
The inverse triangular silhouette is being obtained by emphasizing the shoulders line and
by narrowing the cloths. This effect can be underlined by wearing a dress or a dark shade colours
combination with a lounge jacket or a long jacket/cardigan up to the largest point of the hips, and
a light shade colour or a pattern.v
If instead you wish to approach 8 figure silhouette I recommend to decide for outfits which
on the upper part must have a larger seam, and the shoulders line is fallen and thus rounded. It
would be good that the outfit inferior part to be plumped at the middle and slightly stretched at the
hem line. In defining this type of silhouette it is extremely important to mark the waist by a belt or
any other accessory.
TRIANGULAR SILHOUETTS
Some of you who are fitting this type of silhouette description have obvious narrower shoulder breadth
compared with the hips one. It is good when choosing the outfit to take into account one thing: if you have
the waist natural shaped or not. By natural body shape, this triangular silhouette will be larger on the
inferior part of the body if the waist is being defined or not. Taking into consideration this aspect, I
recommend:
Avoid wearing large tops or jackets which ends at the level because these will distinct the
hips size
Choose the straight line, larger trousers with stripe. For those of you who have a defined
waist I recommend the same type of trousers but with pleats these having the role of dressing the
hips without stretching the seams
The vests which are long up to the upper part of the hips with a seam following this silhouette
natural line
Choose for lounge jackets, vests and cardigans with zips on the rear. In this manner the zips
are lined up without any folds on the silhouette shape
The colours and textiles recommended for the triangular silhouette. I advise you to avoid the very light
and powerful colours for the outfit lower part. Decide for the linear and vertical patterns which are the
safest choice.
TO BE AVOIDED: elastic textiles and those very gossamer ones for the outfit lower part.
Generally, it is better to avoid emphasizing even more the part from the waist downwards because
this is anyway the triangular silhouette gravity centre.
TRICKS
Now that we have established the triangular silhouette general rules let’s see how it can be
transformed into a egg-shaped one. I recommend deciding for tops with ‘fallen shoulder’ and
larger, maybe with pleats over the hips level to create volume. To get the desired effect it is
good to match this top type either with a slightly conic skirt, or with trousers with the same
conic line.
Rectangular silhouette can be get by emphasizing the dimension size at the shoulders
level, thus to equalize it as much is possible the one on the hips level. This can be obtained
by adding the textile shoulders or sponge on the cloth inner side. These can be added on
shirts, lounge jackets, cardigans and T-shirts. If your waist is defined it is better not to
emphasize it.
To get a sand-glass silhouette you must mark the dimension of the shoulders until it is
equalizing the hips one and also to better mark the waist. This can be obtained if you wear a
larger blouse or a shirt over a fan type skirt, and mark the waist with a belt. In case your waist
is not naturally distinct choose a wider belts or even waistbands. The effect will be the
deliverable one, for sure!
The inverse triangular silhouette is very difficult to get from the triangular one without
looking ridiculous. Anyway, this transformation is not optically in your advantage whatsoever.
The 8 figure silhouette is also pretty difficult to be obtained but you have to keep in mind
that the inferior part is larger than the superior one. If you anyway wish to try you must
enlarge the shoulders dimension. Decide for not added sleeves top types, thus the shoulder
line to be undefined. For this situation look for added rounder textile shoulders which will
cover yours. For the inferior part of the body I recommend the conic skirts and trousers. In
case you wear a larger size on your outfits I suggest avoiding pants.
THE INVERSE TRIANGULAR SILHOUETTE
This silhouette is defined by the the fact that the distance between the shoulders is considerably larger
than the one at the hips level. Also in this case the waist can or cannot be naturally distinct.
The outfits which enlarge the natural body shape and which are enclosed within this silhouette type are
being generally made from tops in combination with straight line and slightly conic skirts and trousers.
The waist can be defined or not, regardless its existence.
It is recommended that the clothing items for the upper part of the body to have pleats
following thus the silhouette natural line
Blouses and long waist marked by seams or other textile insertion dresses also emphasize
the shape of this silhouette
I recommend the V cleavage for this type of silhouette because is distracting the attention
from the shoulders breadth. Obviously not exaggerate with the cleavage. It must be stopped to a
visualization point
Accessories are helpful and important in case of the inverse triangular silhouette, and they
can become the centre of the attention and its binder in the same time.
CAUTION! My recommendations and descriptions are generally made, and every one of you will have to
discover and to apply these rules, tricks and appropriate suggestions. The unique of every woman is
obtained or, better to say, underlined by applying and inserting the general rules.
TRICKS
To transform the inverse triangular silhouette into an egg-shape one is being made with the
help of the tops without seams at the shoulder in order to round this line. The waist must be
hidden, and the outfit inferior part is slightly conic. The impression of an egg-shape silhouette
is easily obtained by dress of a ‘balloon’ type or a ‘Turkish’ type dungaree. This advice is
available for almost all the types of silhouettes.
To obtain a rectangular silhouette decide for straight dresses which are not emphasizing
the waist. In case you prefer a combination of clothing items choose for uncurbed tops and
lounge jackets, and for straight line skirts and trousers. The trousers may be with stripe or
cuffs. The skirts or dresses with the inferior folded part are an option in getting the optical
illusion of a rectangular silhouette.
The sand-glass silhouette is based on the equalization of the distance between he
shoulders and the hips and a distinct obvious waist. Consequently, those of you having the
inverse silhouette must decide on clothing items which enlarge the outfit inferior part such as
long skirts, fan type. The outfit comprising a lounge jacket short up the waist level and
trousers with pleats is having the same effect. The well marked waist dresses with a larger
inferior part is a useful trick in obtaining the sand-glass silhouette.
In case you’d like to create the impression of a triangular silhouette the most important
thing is to make your shoulders to look narrower. This effect can be get by using oblique
seam tops from the collar level to the underarm, and also by having a V cleavage. The effect
is definitely underlined when the sleeves are different in colour for the rest of the body. It is
better a light shade colour. The outfit inferior part must be considerably enlarged and you can
make this with a very long skirt.
The 8 figure silhouette can be similar obtained. The difference consists in that for the outfit
inferior part is recommended to decide for conic dresses and trousers with pleats.
8 FIGURE SILHOUETTE
Characteristic for this type of silhouette is the thin very distinct waist, and the rounded shapes. Thus, an
outfit which follows the natural silhouette in 8 figure shape has a not emphasized shoulders, even fallen,
the waist is clear and mark with a belt or an accessory. The inferior part is stretching toward the hem
following the hips line.
For those of you which are fitting within this type of silhouette and with to underline it I advise you to:
Always mark the waist using an accessory, even through seam
Decide for skirts and trousers with pleats on the waist level
Choose the skirts and dresses which have a decreasing tendency towards the hem but be
carefully to have a aperture on the back so you can walk
Wear lounge curbed on waist jackets
Avoid the hang baggily sleeves and flounces
Both the boat collar type line and the cleavage underline this silhouette
I recommend deciding for colour in dark shades for the outfit inferior part, and I advise you in case of the
patterns to avoid horizontal stripes as well as the very crowded ones. Still if you like these patterns a lot it
is better to use them as accentuation. Or you can also use them for the outfit upper part which must have
in this case a very simple seam.
The elastic and knitwear textiles may be an option for the outfit upper part, but for the lower one I
recommend smother and high quality woven materials, a combination between silk and wool.
For the casual outfits decide for tights, matched with tops/short dresses up to the hips level and stress the
waist with a belt. You may also match stretched trousers with a male shirt bounded on the waist level and
put a cardigan over.
TRICKS
The egg-shape silhouette is easy to get from an 8 figure one. The most important in this
case is the waist which must be ‘filled’ through the clothing items designed to create the
specific of the egg-shape silhouette. The ‘balloon’ type dress is again a winning solution, as
well as its variants.
The transformation of an 8 figure silhouette into a rectangular one is being made by putting
an accent on the shoulders line and ignoring the waist. When I say putting an accent on the
shoulders line I mean the tops which better define the shoulders position by seams and
reinforcements such as textile and sponge shoulders. The suitable clothing items for creating
the rectangular silhouette impression are those in vertical and straight lines (made from
seams as well as from ornamental pieces).
Similar with the 8 figure silhouette, the sand-glass one is being obtained by putting an
accent on the shoulders line and by avoiding the silhouette inferior part line. The waist
remains underlined, but the hips line is not so hard defined. The skirts are slightly flared
toward the hem line. Still, if you decide for a conic skirt match it with a curbed lounge jacket
slightly flared toward the waist. It will create a similar visual effect of a sand-glass silhouette.
Triangular silhouette is being obtained by visual moving of the shoulders dimension with
the help of an oblique seams and a V cleavage. The seamless tops which also marks the
shoulders line and which are in the front creates the same effect of diminishing the shoulders
dimension. The outfit inferior part must be also flared.
At the inverse triangular silhouette an accent is being put on the silhouette upper part, the
shoulder dimension is obviously larger than the hips one. Taking this aspect into account, in
order to transform a natural 8 figure silhouette into a inverse triangle one the shoulders line
must be underlined and enlarged. Thus, the outfit has a decreasing line toward the hem line.
The waist is not emphasized, conic dresses and skirts are being recommended. In this case
the seams and ornamental ads are also useful to create the wanted silhouette illusion.
At the beginning of the chapter I was mentioning there are situation in which a body is fitting into two
silhouettes. What you must do in such a situation is to decide on the clothing items which may create the
impression of the same silhouette regardless the angle you’re looked upon. It is your option to choose
your silhouette, however I recommend deciding for the one which can be seen from the front. It is easier
to create unitary outfit on one hand, and on the other hand the front is much more seen and exposed than
the back. Moreover, do not forget there are powerful factors which contribute in transmitting a
professional image and a coherent message. The majority of these factors are present in the front side of
the body such as smile, look, gesture etc.
As a rule, any conformation can be transformed with the cloths help, of course several exceptions exists.
What you need to do is to experiment; I even recommend such an exercise. Either you’ll do this by
yourself or by a specialist’s help these tests will help you to discover the silhouette type which represents
you better and make you feel not only better but will help to transmit in the best way the message of a
respectable professional who you are.
As you may already noticed it is very interesting and provocative in the same time playing with the
silhouettes. The most important thing, above all, is to properly appreciate the proper silhouette for your
body and to visualize the shape you’d like to obtain. For the optimal results try to forget the content and
follow only the shape when choosing the necessary clothing items while deciding to modify the silhouette.
In time you’ll see that this exercise is going to be easier until comes to natural.
As I have said in this chapter it is very important and necessary to try to transform your silhouette
because in this manner you’ll discover which of the type is suitable for you. You’ll notice that some of
the silhouettes are transmitting more powerful and determination, while others are more feminine
and chic. Each of them is important in different moments.
Within this chapter I have tried to underline why it is essential not to limit yourself on what your body
offers. Think this is only the starting point.
To conclude... test it out!
Mihaela Berciu – „Outfit for success”