Beauty | Permanent make-up
Facing
the world
Permanent make-up is increasingly
being used to boost the confidence
of people affected by medical
problems, as leading practitioner
Karen Betts reports
P
ermanent make-up is the more
common name for a cosmetic
technique called micro-pigmentation.
Similar in many ways to tattooing, the
technique involves implanting hypoallergenic
pigments into the dermal layer of the skin
for a lasting effect. Traditionally viewed as an
advanced ‘beauty’ treatment, for example, for
lining the lips and defining shapeless or pale
eyebrows, permanent make-up is no longer
purely a cosmetic or ‘vanity’ procedure.
Many clients are looking for a solution to very
specific problems and the list of remedial or
paramedical uses of this technique is growing
all the time.
Breast reconstruction
With the high incidence of breast cancer
in the UK, nipple and areola reconstruction
using permanent make-up is now in
increasing demand. Patients are often referred
by plastic surgeons and oncologists who are
aware that permanent make-up, if carried out
by an experienced and skilled therapist, can
achieve a realistic, three-dimensional-looking
Confidence can be dramatically
boosted by treatment
nipple. Some doctors even recommend this
treatment in favour of surgically replacing
the nipples after breast reconstruction – a
procedure that is not always successful.
Before treatment takes place, medical
clearance is required from the surgeon
involved to ensure that the tissue is healthy
enough to withstand the procedure. Next,
an in-depth consultation is carried out to
determine the appropriate position, shape,
size and colour of the nipple and areola.
If only one breast has been reconstructed,
colour selection is determined by the colour of
the nipple and areola of the untreated breast.
For bilateral reconstruction the patient and
therapist select the shades to duplicate the
colour of a natural nipple and areola in peach,
rose, pink, beige and brown tints. The nipple
is usually created several shades darker and
a halo of colour is left around the nipple to
enhance the three-dimensional appearance.
A lighter variation is chosen around the outer
edge of the areola to give a diffuse effect and
a natural appearance.
The pigment implantation process takes
between 30 to 60 minutes. In many cases, full
sensation is not restored after reconstructive
surgery and therefore the client feels very
little, if any, pain during treatment.
Eyebrow reconstruction
One very common use for permanent
make-up is to treat the eyebrow area. An
extremely high percentage of emails I receive
start with ‘I have no eyebrows…’ and the
reasons are numerous: because they have
had radiotherapy or chemotherapy, because
they have alopecia, or because they are ’70s
chicks who have over-plucked their eyebrows
for years in order to be fashionable and their
eyebrows have never grown back.
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What is micro-pigmentation/permanent make-up?
Micro-pigmentation involves microscopic
particles of pigment being implanted into the
reticular layer of the skin. The pigment is placed
at a depth of 0.5mm (much shallower than a
standard tattoo) and is visible through the upper
layers of the skin. Single or multiple disposable
needles are used for the procedure. There
is little or no pain for the client: for instance,
treating eyebrows will feel no more painful than
having them tweezered on the ‘first pass’ and
from then on the procedure is virtually painless.
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The nature of the pigments and the depth
to which they are implanted means they will
fade over time. The colour will appear a little
darker for the first few days but soon lightens
as the upper layers of the skin are shed and
replaced. A re-touch should be scheduled one
to three months after the initial treatment to
achieve a perfect result. The implanted pigment
will fade over 18 to 24 months, thus the client
will need to make another appointment for a
colour boost.
Whatever the cause, when a person starts
to develop bald patches where their eyebrows
should be, they can become very confused
and distressed, and their self-confidence
often takes a dramatic dive.
In these instances, permanent cosmetics
– which are more natural looking and longer
lasting than pencils – can offer life-changing
results to clients.
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Permanent make-up
Cleft lip and scars
Some facial imperfections, such as cleft lip,
can be corrected or heavily disguised using
micro-pigmentation techniques. By implanting
pigment outside the natural vermillion border
of the lips it is possible to introduce symmetry
that is otherwise lacking in these cases.
Scar relaxation techniques using
micro-pigmentation equipment can also
be used to reduce the shiny and stretched
appearance associated with scarring.
Multi-Trepannic Collagen Actuation (MCA)
is a relatively new technique that uses the
oscillating action of a permanent cosmetics
needle to break down and disperse the scar
tissue and stimulate the body’s own natural
healing process and collagen production in
the skin. I have seen some excellent results
with this technique.
Alternatively, scar camouflage techniques
can be used to diminish and disguise scars
and burns caused by either surgery or
injury. The process involves customising and
blending pigments to harmonise with the
surrounding tissue and then implanting them
to make the scar less noticeable and reduce
its contrasting, shiny appearance.
Following a full consultation and colour
analysis, it can take a skilled therapist as little
as two minutes to implant pigment into one
square centimetre of skin.
Scalp hair loss
Scalp hair simulation, while not the answer
to balding, can be employed for small areas
of hair loss, eg. to camouflage scar tissue
Pigment disorders
Contraindications to treatment include thin
blood; eczema; high or low blood pressure;
sunburn; open wounds; infections such as
a cold, flu or a fever; and pregnancy (largely
because if there is a complication during
pregnancy or the baby is born with an
abnormality, the client may want to blame
someone/something). The therapist should
always seek advice and approval from the
client’s doctor, surgeon or consultant if there
are any concerns about the individual’s
health. A patch test must be carried out at
least 24 hours prior to treatment to ensure
that the client does not have an adverse
reaction to the pigment.
Training
or donor areas following a hair transplant
operation. This technique involves implanting
pigment that matches the client’s hair colour
in the adjacent areas.
An advanced qualification in
micro-pigmentation/permanent cosmetics
training is essential to carry out
remedial/paramedical work.
Alternatively, the therapist should come
from a medical background, eg. nursing.
Remedial micro-pigmentation is a complex
procedure where the therapist must have a
natural gift for colour matching as well as the
appropriate training.
Karen Betts, Managing Director of Nouveau Contour, is widely
recognised as the leading international micro-pigmentation /
permanent cosmetics technician and trainer in the UK, Holland,
USA and Hong Kong. Karen has been appointed the micropigmentation consultant at The Princess Grace Hospital breast
care department in London. She has appeared on numerous TV
programmes, including Channel 4’s ‘10 Years Younger’, BBC TV’s
‘Celebrity Scissorhands’ and Living TV’s ‘Extreme Makeover UK’.
For more information and training details, call 0845 644 3994 or
visit www.karenbetts.co.uk or www.nouveaucontour.co.uk
PICTURES: COURTESY OF NILAM PATEL
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Vitiligo, a pigment disorder that results in
patches of extremely white skin, can be
greatly disguised with permanent make-up.
This is achieved by implanting pigment that
matches the client’s skin tone in those areas
affected. This process works particularly
well on the lip area and on darker skins. It is
also a much longer-lasting solution than the
camouflage cosmetics often used by people
with pigment disorders.
Contraindications
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