Data: 23-04-2014
Tipo: Portal
Origem: Portugal
Pág: Online
Secção:
Get your mouth ready for Covela Escolha Branco
"I don't like white wine." How many times have I heard this from my wine class
students or regular folks when discussing vinous preferences? What I always
want to retort is, "You probably don't like Chardonnay." It's that old reliable, widely
planted, flourish-in-so-many places grape that's made into the white wine
Americans know best.
Because of this attitude, I love when I find a game-changing white. At a
recent David Bowler portfolio tasting in New York City, I had an eye-opening,
palate-wowing, nose-pleasing wine that got me excited.
It was a tip from my Portuguese Facebook friend, Vitor Mendes, that led me to the
Metropolitan Pavilion in Manhattan. I zipped out of my day job, crossed the
Hudson, and hustled over to 18th street. "Where is this tasting?" After a confusing
few minutes trying to resurrect the FB conversation with Vitor on my phone, I
remembered: he told me 19th Street! Time was wasting. I took the stairs at a fast
clip and reached check in at 4:58 p.m. "The tasting is closed." In my early
blogging years, I would have slunk away. But I was a veteran: "I just want to see
Covela." It was a legitimate request, and the gatekeepers acquiesced. I grabbed a
glass and ran to the table where I met the energetic and charming managing
partner of the winery, Tony Smith.
When Tony poured the 2012 Escolha Branco, he explained that it had been
revolutionary when it was first made because it combined native Portuguese with
foreign grapes. The blend includes Avesso, Chardonnay, Viognier, and
Gewurztraminer. As I lowered my nose to the glass, I was seduced by strong
aromas of white flowers and lychees. I was not entirely sold, however. I've had
many wines that promised worlds on the nose and disappointed on the palate. But
as soon as the wine touched my tongue, I knew this was not one of those wines. I
immediately sensed a crisp acidity. Thank God, as Viognier itself can go flabby,
as I saw far too often in Virginia during WBC. The Portuguese grapes gave this
blend a shot of acid, the aromatic varieties added beautiful fruit and flowers, and
the Chardonnay gave it heft. This unlikely combination of varieties formed a
harmonious, unique Portuguese wine from the historic Quinta de Covela estate in
the Douro Valley.
Wine geeks might enjoy analyzing Escolha Branco, which Tony called
"iconoclastic" for the winery, but that would miss the point - that this is a wine for
unabashed enjoyment.
URL: http://loveswine.blogspot.pt/2014/04/get-your-mouth-ready-for-covela-escolha.html