Idrija
•
Kolpa River
•
Solčavsko Region
•
Soča Valley
Soča Valley
EDEN Slovenia
2012/13
European
Destinations of
Excellence
Kolpa River
Discover the hidden
treasures of Slovenia!
Solčavsko Region
Idrija
Enjoy your
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
of EDEN Slovenia
Contents
All you need to know about
where to sleep, eat, drink,
visit and enjoy
3
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving & Getting Around6
Planes, trains and driving in Slovenia
The Basics7
Statistics, prices, politics and more
Online
Language9
Essential Slovene for visitors
Idrija
10
The town of mercury and lace
Kolpa River20
Mobile
A pristine waterway in a relaxing land
Solčavsko Region
30
Breathtaking peaks and picture-perfect valleys
You’ll feel like you’re on top of the world, while taking in the
views of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and the valleys below
from the Panoramic Road in the Solčavsko region, photo
by YMB
Print
Soča Valley
40
Amazing sights along the Emerald Trail
Map
50
Special Features
www.
pocket.com
Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced city guides
slovenia.inyourpocket.com
The crystal clear waters and amazing scenery of the Soča
river make for some of the best kayaking, canoeing, rafting
and other water sport activities in Slovenia, photo by FA
Bobo, Archive LTO Bovec
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Idrija Lace
17
Žlikrofi
18
The Viniška Republic
22
Kostelska Rakija
27
The Legend of Peter Klepec
28
Potočka Zijalka Cave
34
Handicrafts of Solčavsko
39
Triglav National Park
41
The Walk of Peace
41
2012/13
4
Foreword
foreword
It’s no coincidence that the acronym EDEN was chosen for
the European Destinations of Excellence project (even if it
had to be finagled a little with the ‘n’ in Excellence used for
the last letter), as the four Slovenian members of the group
all boast paradise-like qualities - unspoilt nature, abundant
wildlife, pristine rivers and a certain remoteness from the
outside world. The first to gain admission to the prestigious
club was the majestic Soča Valley in 2008, which is centred
around the turquoise waters of the Soča river as its path cuts
through the rocky mountains in the far northeast of Slovenia,
comprising a section of the so-called Emerald Trail. On the
opposite side of the country in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps,
the Solčavsko region next got the nod in 2009. Famed for
its photogenic valleys and breathtaking views, the region is
perhaps more deserving of the label ‘sublime’ than anywhere
else in the country. In 2010, the meandering Kolpa River often referred to as Slovenia’s longest coast - was awarded
with the distinction of excellence, not only for the attractions
of the river itself, but also for the beauty and cultural heritage
of the land through which it flows. And last but not least, the
town of Idrija became the latest Slovenian EDEN member in
2011. Most known (somewhat incongruously) for its mercury
mine and traditional lacemaking, the town has actually
developed a well-rounded tourism offer and is arguably
the most accessible of the four destinations. To finish on
a personal note, we had an absolute pleasure travelling
extensively in all the regions prior to and while researching
this guide, and hope that the genuine fondness and heartfelt
enthusiasm we have for each of them is readily apparent in
the pages below.
Cover story
When selecting photos for the cover of this guide, we
were faced with some difficult choices. One photo would
not do, because the regions are too diverse to be represented with a single image. And even choosing single
images to represent individual destinations proved to be
a daunting task. These are the ones we finally settled on
(clockwise from top left): one of many mills and other ethnological sights along the calm waters of the Kolpa river;
the famous Kozjak Waterfall near Kobarid in the Soča
Valley; one of the Klavže dams, the so-called 'pyramids
of Idrija'; and Logarska Dolina, the most recognisable of
the Solčavsko region's three valleys and one of Slovenia's
most breathtaking natural attractions.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
EDEN In Your Pocket
Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana
Slovenia
Tel. +386 30 316 602
[email protected]
www.inyourpocket.com
Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc.
[email protected]
©IQBATOR d.o.o.
Printed Eurograf
Published August 2012
30,000 copies
Maps Slovenian Tourist Board,
www.slovenia.info
EDEN Slovenia
The World of In Your Pocket
Northern
Ireland
Project EDEN
Estonia
Russia
Latvia
Ireland
Lithuania
Belarus
Netherlands
Poland
Germany
Belgium
Czech
Republic
Ukraine
Austria
Switzerland Slovenia
Romania
Croatia
Italy
Bosnia Serbia
Bulgaria
Montenegro Kosovo
Albania
FYR Macedonia
Greece
It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Your
Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. Since then,
we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally
produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than
75 cities across the continent (with Ghent, Belgium, the
latest city to be pocketed) and the number of In Your
Pocket guides published each year is approaching an
amazing five million.
Always an innovative publisher, we have just launched
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Editorial
Editor Yuri Barron
Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn
Project Manager Irena Jamnikar
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė
Cover photos (clockwise from top left)
Dunja Wedam, Matevž Lenarčič, Samo
Trebižan, Tomo Jeseničnik
Photos Slovenian Tourist Board,
Tourist Information Centres in Idrija,
Črnomelj, Solčava and Bovec, Branka
Jovanović, Yuri Barron
Special thanks to Jana Kokelj, Erika
Hvala, Mojca Ošep, Marko Slapnik,
Gregor Jevšček, Lidija Ivanšek, Peter
Črnič, Janez Weiss, Tina Gerkman and
the Slovenian Tourist Board
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o.
Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced in any form, except
brief extracts for the purpose of review,
without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The
brand name In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket
(Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania,
tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers’ comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
The “European Destinations of ExcelleNce” (EDEN)
project, was started by the European Commission in
accordance with European tourism policy guidelines.
The aim of the project is to promote sustainable
tourism development models across the European
Union; that is to draw attention to the value,
diversity and shared characteristics of European
tourist destinations and to promote destinations
where economic growth is pursued in such a way
as to ensure social, cultural and environmental
sustainability.
The project is based on national competitions that
take place every year and result in the selection
of a tourist “destination of excellence” for each
participating country.
This European quest for excellence in tourism is
developed around an annual theme, chosen by the
Commission together with the relevant national
tourism bodies. This theme functions as a leitmotif:
so far, rural tourism, intangible heritage, protected
areas, aquatic tourism and regeneration of
physical sites have been the main EDEN themes.
Slovenia decided to participate in the EDEN
project in order to identify and reward the most
sustainable and green destinations that follow the
principles of environmental, socially responsible
and cultural sustainability, thus stimulating their
further development.
Visit our EDEN destinations and discover the
hidden treasures of Slovenia!
More information: www.slovenia.info/eden
Europe: www.edenineurope.eu.
This p u blicatio n is f ina n ce d
under the Competitiveness and
Innovation Framework Programme
(CIP)
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Sueddeutsche Zeitung
2012/13
5
6
Basics
Arriving & Getting around
Arriving in Slovenia
Located at one of the true geographical crossroads in
Europe, Slovenia is easily reached by both road and rail
from more or less all directions, especially if crossing
one of the now invisible internal EU borders of the
neighbouring Schengen countries (of which Croatia is
not yet a member though). International bus transport
is nowhere near as frequent as trains, but there are
usually at least weekly direct connections to many major cities in Central Europe, the Balkans and Scandinavia. Of course this being the 21st century, most visitors
opt to fly, and Ljubljana’s Brnik airport has direct flights
to up to two dozen cities in Europe depending on the
season, with long-haul flights most often connecting
in Germany and Austria. In recent years budget flights
have become ever more common, and while Ljubljana
only has a couple of budget options, the airports in
Trieste, Venice and to a lesser extent Klagenfurt are
well-served by budget operators and often represent
the cheapest method of getting to Slovenia even after
factoring in transfer costs.
Getting to EDEN
Slovenia’s EDEN destinations are not the easiest
places to reach once you’ve arrived in the country, but
this is of course relative in a country of Slovenia’s size.
Aside from Idrija and the upper part of the Kolpa river,
which are both around an hour or so drive from Ljubljana, you can expect to spend between an hour and a
half and two hours in a car, and considerably longer on
a bus, while train routes manage to skirt the regions almost entirely other than long journeys to Most na Soči
in the south of the Soča Valley and Črnomelj/Metlika
along the lower Kolpa river. However, as the Soča Valley, Solčavsko region and Kolpa river are all found on
Slovenia’s borders, they may be more easily reached
if visitors arrive directly from Italy, Austria or Croatia
respectively. This also means that booking flights to
an airport in a neighbouring country may not only be
the cheapest option, but also the most convenient. In
any event, the extra effort it takes to get to the EDEN
destinations will be well worth it once you’re there.
More specific transport information is included in each
of the destination chapters.
Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive
Vinjeta w w w.dar s.
si. Slovenia requires all
motor vehicles travelling
on Slovenian highways to
have a vinjeta (veen-yehtah) sticker. This system
exists in lieu of tolls, and
the vinjeta can be easily
obtained at nearly all gas
stations and kiosks.
Yearly/monthly/weekly
stickers are €95/30/15
for cars and yearly/halfyearly/weekly ones are €47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles.
Also be aware that border police will likely not remind you
to purchase a vinjeta when entering the country, but are
highly likely to issue you a steep fine when leaving if you’ve
failed to do so. For more info check www.dars.si.
EDEN Slovenia
7
Climate
Rules of the Road
The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-100km/
hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must use
headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel,
warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, in winter,
either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is
0.05%, and EU residents should be aware that any fines
and/or driving license points incurred whilst in Slovenia
will theoretically follow you home. The traffic information
centre has road webcams and maps of current traffic
problems at www.promet.si.
Temperature, °C
Rainfall, mm
30
150
20
120
10
90
0
60
-10
-20
Buses
J
F M A M J
J
A
S O N D
30
Osvobodilne Fronte 4, tel. (+386) 12 34 46 00, fax
(+386) 12 34 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana.
si, www.ap-ljubljana.si.
such either directly in their descriptions or with the relevant
symbol from the symbol key. Further information is available
from the National Council of Disabled People’s Organisation
of Slovenia (or NSIOS by it’s Slovene acronym), by phone at
+386 (0)4 30 36 46 or on the web at www.nsios.si.
Car Rental
Drinking
Avis D-2, Čufarjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1 430 80 10, lji@
Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00
it cannot be bought in stores.
Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče) D/E-1, Trg
avis.si, w w w.avis.si. Wi th offices all over Slovenia
(including Brnik Airport, Ljubljana, Maribor and Koper) the
friendly folks at Avis can help you find the most convenient car rental solution for your holiday, business trip or
weekend away. It’s always a good idea to enquire about
special weekend rates, as they can be extremely easy
on the wallet. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 12:00. Airport office tel. (0)4 23 65 000, open 08:0022:00.
Hertz D-2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 434 01 47,
ljubljana@her tz.si, w w w.hertz.si. One of the most
known and trusted names in car rentals has a total of
eight locations across Slovenia, including an office in
the centre of Ljubljana within easy walking distance of
most hotels, as well as at the airports in Ljubljana and
Portorož. They also conveniently offer free delivery and
collection service within 20km of any office during working
hours. Their large fleet of new cars has everything from
the incredibly fuel-efficient Volkswagen Up! to larger vans
and luxury models - there are even some with automatic
transmissions for Americans. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
Budget Grand Hotel Union, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1
421 7340, [email protected].
Dollar & Thrifty Aerodrom Brnik, Zgornji Brnik 130a,
tel. +386 (0)4 236 5750, [email protected].
Europcar Aerodrom Brnik, Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel.
+386 (0)4 23 67 990/+386 (0)31 382 051, [email protected], europcar.si.
Sixt Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 5, Ljubljana, tel. +386
(0)1 234 46 50/+386 (0)51 601 804, ljubljana.dt@
sixt-slovenia.si, www.sixt.si.
Money
Set along the banks of the Rinža river, the Church of St
Jernej dominates the city centrein Kočevje, photo by YMB
Disabled travellers
Slovenia is increasingly well-adapted for the disabled.
Venues that are disabled accessible have been noted as
Basic data
Population
Slovenia 2,048,951 (2011 estimate)
Ljubljana 280,140 (2011 estimate)
Area
20,273 square kilometres
Ethnic composition
Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%,
Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7%
Official languages
Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian
Local time
Central European (GMT + 1hr)
Airport
Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika)
Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 20 610 00, fax
+386 (0)4 20 212 20, [email protected], www.ljuairport.si. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00.
Trains
Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) Kolod-
vorska 11, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 29 13 332, potnik.
[email protected], www.slo-zeleznice.si.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Longest river
Sava (221km in Slovenia)
Highest mountain
Triglav 2,864m.
Borders
Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km,
Croatia 670km
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in
denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros,
while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500
euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with
among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses,
a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.
Exchange rates
1 EUR € = 1.25 US$ = 0.80 UK£ = 1.20 CHF
=7.95 CNY = 100 ¥ = 40 руб (26 July 2012)
Market values
Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe,
prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite
noticeable increases since the introduction of the Euro
in 2007. Here are some typical everyday products and
prices:
Product
Price
McDonald’s Big Mac
€2.40
Slice of pizza
€ 1.80
Slice of burek
€ 2.00
Cup of coffee
€ 1.10
Bottle of name brand vodka
€ 12.50
Decent bottle of local wine
€ 3.50
Bottle of local beer in a shop
€ 1.10
Pint of beer in a pub
€ 2.70
Pack of cigarettes
€ 2.90
Movie ticket
€ 4.90
Postcard
€ 0.30
Litre of petrol
€ 1.49
Speeding ticket
up to €2000
2012/13
8
Language
Basics
National Holidays
Symbol key
1 & 2 January New Year
8 February Slovenian Day of Culture
March- April Easter
7th Sunday after Easter Pentecost
27 April Uprising Day
1 & 2 May Labour Day
25 June National Day
15 August Assumption
31 October Reformation Day
1 November All Souls’ Day
25 December Christmas
26 December Independence Day
P Air conditioning
W Wi-Fi connection
6 Animal friendly
T Child friendly
A Credit cards accepted
H Conference facilities
Politics
The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. The
president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007, and will likely
run for re-election at the end of 2012. Early parliamentary
elections in December 2011 brought the rather divisive
former prime minister Janez Janša and his conservative
party back to power.
Religion
Although Slovenians are traditionally Roman Catholic, a
recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37% of
the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the
rest of them believing in ‘something’.
U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking
R Internet
J City centre location
G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
S Takeaway
E Live music
B Outdoor Seating
Smoking
Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently
banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special
smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.
Tipping
In Slovenia tipping is the exception rather than the rule,
although rounding up taxi fares and café bills is becoming
more common, while leaving 10% or more in restaurants with
good service always appreciated.
Visas
Many foreigners simply need a passport or ID card to enter
Slovenia. Those requiring a visa will be able to travel freely
between the Schengen-agreement countries for a limited
amount of time, usually 90 days. Always check these details
with a Slovenian embassy or consulate. Further information
can be found at www.mzz.gov.si.
Tax free shopping
The entrance to Anthony’s Shaft in Idrija with the Roman
god Mercury and the affirmation Srečno - which literally
translates as ‘good luck’, but doesn’t sound quite so
ominous in Slovene, photo by YMB
EDEN Slovenia
If you’re a resident of a non-EU
member state, you’re eligible to
take advantage of tax free shopping while visiting Slovenia. I f
you spend over €50 at any shop
displaying the Global Refund ‘Tax
Free’ logo, they can issue you with
a special Refund Cheque when
you pay. At shops that don’t officially participate in
the program, you’ll need to ask for a special invoice
for foreigners - you can still get the refund, it just
involves a little more red tape. When you leave the
EU just show the item you purchased and relevant
paperwork to a customs official, who will give you
the necessary stamps. You can then receive cash or
credit at any of the many Global Refund Offices around
the world - at Ljubljana’s Brnik airport this is located at
the news agents in the check-in area. However, before
making any extravagant purchases assuming you’ll
receive a 20% discount, make sure to double-check
your departure info, especially if you have a layover in
another EU country on your way home. Not all customs
offices are open 24 hours, so depending on the time
and length of your layover, it may be next to impossible
to get the official stamps you need.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Slovene is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter
alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian,
and also shares many words with other Slavic languages.
Although some words and letter combinations may appear
unpronounceable at first glance, Slovene is actually a fairly
phonetic language with very few irregularities - although
the letters L and V can do some strange things depending
on their position in a word. Luckily, most Slovenes speak
either English, Italian or German embarrassingly well,
so chances are you won’t have to worry about any communication problems. However, as with most countries,
attempting to use a little bit of the local language can go
a long way towards winning over your hosts. Even the odd
‘hvala’ and ‘prosim’ won’t go unnoticed.
Pronunciation
c - as in pizza
e - as in egg
g - as in go
j - like y in yogurt
č - like c in cello
š - like sh in ship
ž - like s in pleasure
Basics
Do you speak English? - Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REE-tay
Ahn-GLESH-ko) ?
I don’t understand - Ne razumem (Nuh ra-ZOO-mehm)
Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahnEESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)?
Good Morning - Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh)
Good Day - Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn)
Good Night - Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch)
Yes - Ja (Yah)
No - Ne (Nay)
Hello - Živjo (Jeeve-yoh)
Thank you - Hvala (HVAL-a)
Please - Prosim (PRO-seem)
Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay)
Pardon me (asking for help) – Prosim (pro-SEEM)
My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ...
I am from... - Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)...
Days
Monday - ponedeljek (POH-nuh-dehl-yek)
Tuesday - torek (TOR-ek)
Wednesday - sreda (Sray-dah)
Thursday - četrtek (chuh-TUR-tuck)
Friday - petek (peh-tuck)
Saturday - sobota (soh-BOH-tah)
Sunday - nedelja (nuh-DEHL-yah)
Questions
Who? - Kdo?(K-doh)
What? - Kaj?(Kai)
Where? - Kje ? (Key-yay)
When? - Kdaj (K-dai)
How much does it cost? - Koliko stane (KOH-lee-koh STAH-neh)?
Places
Croatia - Hrvaška (Hurr-VASH-ka)
England - Anglija (Ahn-glee-yah)
Germany - Nemčija (Nem-CHEE-yah)
Hungary - Madžarska (Mad-jar-skah)
Ireland - Irska (Ear-skah)
Netherlands - Nizozemska (NEE-zo-zem-skah)
Scotland - Škotska (Shkot-skah)
Venice - Benetke (Behn-et-keh)
Vienna - Dunaj (Doo-nigh)
Signs
Open - odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh)
Closed - zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh)
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Learn Slovene
Learn commonly-used Slovene words and phrases on
our website - and from a British guy no less!
Entrance - vhod (oo-hod)
Exit - izhod (eez-hod)
Push – rini (ree-nee)
Pull – vleci (oo-LETS-ee)
Travelling
Bus - avtobus (OW-toh-booze)
Train - vlak (v-LOCK)
I am looking for.... - Iščem (EESH-chem) ...
One ticket, please - Eno vstopnico, prosim (Eh-noh oo-stopNEETZ-oh pro- SEEM)
Times
Now - zdaj (z-dai)
Later - kasneje (kaz-NAY-yeh)
Today - danes (dahn-es)
Tomorrow - jutri (yoo-tree)
Yesterday - včeraj (oo-cheh-ray)
In the morning - zjutraj (z-YOO-try)
In the afternoon - popoldne (poh-POLD-neh)
In the evening - zvečer (z-veh-chehr)
At night - ponoči (poh-NOH-chee)
Bar Talk
One coffee, please - Eno kavo prosim (EH-noh KAH-voh
pro-SEEM)
One beer, please - (Name of beer), prosim (pro-SEEM)
Cheers! - Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)!
What’s going on? - Kaj dogaja? (kai DO-ga-ya)
Let’s party! - Žurajmo! (zhur-AI-mo)
You have beautiful eyes - Imate lepe oči (EE-mah-tay lehpeh oh-chee)
You’re hot - Si lepa (see LAY-pa)
Where are you from? - Iz kje si? (iz kye see)
Can I have your number?- Lahko dobim tvojo telefonsko
številko? (Law-koh doh-BEEM t-voy-yo teh-leh-FOHN-sko
shteh-VEEL-koh)?
See-you, bye! - Ajde, čao (ai-dai, chow)
Street smarts
Slovenians usually leave out the word for street in
conversation, so while your destination may officially
be called ‘Poljanska ulica’, you can survive by just saying
Poljanska
Avtocesta (aw-toh-ses-tah) Highway
Cesta (tses-tah) Boulevard
Most (mohst) Bridge
Nabrežje (nah-breh-dgee-eh) Embankment
Trg (teh-rg) Square
Ulica (oo-leet-sah) Street
2012/13
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Idrija
Idrija
Where to Sleep
Tourist Information
City Centre
Tourist Information Centre Vodnikova 3, tel.
+386 (0)5 374 39 16, fax +386 (0)5 374 39 15,
[email protected], www.idrija-turizem.si. Conveniently located opposite the main bus station, Idrija’s
tourist information centre is housed in the building
that was formerly the engine room for the Inzaghi
mine shaft - although the large piece of machinery
dominating the room looks to be brand new, it was
actually the original pulley system used to transport
workers into and out of the mine, and dates back all
the way to 1890.
Once you’ve had a chance to peer into the deceptively
deep space below the wheel, shift your focus to the
seemingly endless supply of brochures, guidebooks
(including this one hopefully), maps and brochures
covering every square metre of Idrija, as well neighbouring regions and sites throughout Slovenia.
This is also the best place to hire a knowledgable local
guide, or ask a friendly English-speaking member of
the staff some basic questions before heading out on
your own. Don’t forget to make a return visit before
you leave town to pick up the necessary postcards,
souvenirs or other gifts - including of course a selection of authentic hand-made Idrija lace.
Apartma na Starmu Placu Trg svetega Ahacija 7,
tel. +386 (0)31 603 333, mihael.podobnik@gmail.
com. This large apartment directly opposite Anthony’s
Shaft in the centre of the old town (it’s name means ‘on the
old square’) has two separate bedrooms and can sleep up
to seven people if the convertible couch in the living room
is utilised. Minimally furnished, spacious and kept spotlessly clean, it’s great option for a big family or small groups
that would like their privacy. Meals can be arranged with
advance notice, but there is also a fully-equipped kitchen
in the living room for self-catering. Each of the bedrooms
have their own bathrooms and can theoretically be rented
individually, although this can be difficult to arrange during
the peak season. JL
Gostišče Barbara Kosovelova 3, tel. +386 (0)5 37
71 162, www.kut.si. Although it’s situated in the same
building that formerly served as the main entrance to Idrija’s famed mercury mine and now houses the town’s fine
mining museum, the eight rooms in this centrally-located
guesthouse are all bright, airy and modernly furnished with
en suite bathrooms. The house’s secondary claim to fame
is as the birthplace of Stanko Bloudek, an artist, designer
and engineer, who is often referred to as the Slovenian
Leonardo da Vinci, and among his many other distinctions
designed the giant Planica ski jump and is the only Slovene
to ever be on the International Olympic Committee. Q 8
rooms (singles €30, doubles €60, triples €80, quads €90).
PJALKW
A bird’s eye view of Idrija’s old town, photo by Jani Peternelj
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United Nations
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Cultural Organization
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Located in a river valley and surrounded by hills and
plateaus, Idrija is only accessible by car - unless of course
you’re an avid cyclist.
It takes roughly 50 minutes to make the 60km drive from
Ljubljana, about half of which is motorway, while the remaining half is along country roads that take you through several
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Arriving
UNESCO Heritage Site
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If you mention the name Idrija to most Slovenes, two
words immediately come to mind (mercury and lace),
perhaps followed shortly thereafter by a third (žlikrofi). The
discovery of the what would grow to become the world’s
second largest mercury mine here in 1490 led to nearly
500 years of prosperity and growth associated with
the mining industry, while a unique lacemaking tradition
developed amongst the wives and daughters of miners,
which still continues to this day. The trifecta is rounded out
by žlikrofi, a distinctive ravioli-like culinary speciality that
became Slovenia’s first officially protected dish in 2010.
While this would be enough to put most towns of around
12,000 residents on the map, Idrija’s tourism offer
goes well beyond its most famous individual elements,
combining its rich historical, industrial, natural and cultural
heritage into one well-organised package. Within easy
driving distance from both the Mediterranean coast and
the Slovene capital Ljubljana, Idrija nevertheless feels
as if it’s hidden away from the outside world by the three
plateaus that converge around it. Thanks to this natural
beauty (which includes the country’s first protected natural
monument) and perhaps even more so to the foresight
that led local industries to diversify away from mining,
Idrija was not only able to avoid the economic hardships
that befell other former mining towns, but has continued
to prosper as a tourist destination - the culmination of
which was its designation as a European Destination of
Excellence in 2011.
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Heritage of Mercury.
Almadén and Idrija
inscribed on the World
Heritage List in 2012
As had long been expected, Idrija was officially added to
the ranks of UNESCO World Heritage sites in June 2012.
Jointly recognised with the city of Almaden in Spain, which
is the location of the only mercury mine in the world larger
than Idrija’s, the much-deserved achievement was the result of a six-year effort by the two towns forever connected
by their shared history of mercury, as well as the technical
and industrial heritage that developed as a result of it.
small villages and get increasingly windy as you near Idrija
- if you get stuck behind one of the many school buses
plying this route to take pupils to the mining museum, it can
add an extra few minutes to your journey. Take the exit to
Logatec and follow the 102 and signs from there.
If you’re feeling adventurous, or it just suits your itinerary
better, Idrija can also be reached via smaller roads over
the mountains from Nova Gorica and Tolmin in the east or
Žiri and Škofja Loka in west, which are usually kept clear
of snow during winter. If you don’t have your own car, there
are nine buses per day between 08:15 and 19:15 from
Ljubljana’s main station, although this drops to eight on
Saturdays and five on Sundays. The fare is €6.30 one-way,
and can be paid on the bus.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Idrija Youth Hostel IX Korpusa 17, tel. +386 (0)5
373 40 76, fax +386 (0)5 373 40 89, [email protected]. Basic inexpensi ve accommodation a few
minutes up the hill from the city centre, if you’re on a
tight budget or looking to meet other travellers who like
to veer off the proverbial beaten path this place is for you.
More than half of the 43 beds are found in private double
rooms, which means you can also save some euros without sacrificing your privacy. Extras such as WiFi, sheets,
towels and parking are all included in the price, and there
are several common areas, a TV room and large garden
at guests’ disposal. Q 16 rooms (doubles €26). JLW
Hotel Jožef Vojkova 9a, tel. +386 (0)8 20 04
250/+386 (0)5 37 50 650, [email protected], www.
hotel-jozef.si. Instead of being discouraged by the lack of
suitable accommodation options for its visiting employees
and business partners, the Idrija-based Kolektor Group
simply decided to build a four-star business class hotel
across the street from its offices. No expense was spared
in designing the spacious comfortable rooms, and the attention to detail is evident from the complimentary bath
products and mini-bar selection to the ample workspace
and smoking chamber in the hallway. There’s also an
excellent restaurant on the first floor, while the professional ser vice ensures a pleasurable worr y-free stay.
PJAULKXW
Around Idrija
Kendov Dvorec Na Griču 2, Spodnja Idrija, tel.
+386 (0)5 37 25 100, fax +386 (0)5 37 56 475,
[email protected], www.kendov-dvorec.com.
Kendov Dvorec is quite simply one of the finest hotels in
all of Slovenia, and truly has to be seen to be believed.
A sprawling country manor that dates back to 1377 and
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
was for generations the primary residence of the wealthy
Kenda family, the building and surrounding grounds on
a small hillock overlooking Spodnja Idrija have been
painstakingly restored to their former splendour, while
also being enhanced with all of the modern amenities
befitting of a five-star boutique hotel. The eleven rooms
vary greatly in size and shape, but are all furnished with
authentic 19th-century antiques and handmade Idrija lace.
A member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux Hotel
Association, guests can be assured superb professional
service from the highly trained staff, and exquisite cuisine
prepared by the house chef who was formerly awarded
the title Chef of Year for Slovenia. Q 11 rooms (singles
€130-230, doubles €180-330). PHAILBKW
Kmečki Hram Fortuna Idršek 1a, Idršek, tel. +386
(0)5 377 91 49/+386 (0)40 600 811, kmecki.hram@
siol.net. Perched at the edge of the Ledine plateau
overlooking the Idrijca Valley and Spodnja Idrija to one
side the the hills leading down to Žiri on the other, Fortuna combines the peaceful seclusion of the countryside
with easy access to many of the area’s attractions. The
rooms are comfortably furnished and all come with en
suite bathrooms and tiny satellite TVs, but the real draw
here in addition to the location is the restaurant on the
ground floor, which is a popular destination for independent
visitors, tour groups and locals. LBK
Prenočišča Na Kluk Govejk 14c, Govejk, tel. +386
(0)5 3779 007/+386 (0)51 435 497, [email protected],
www.nakluk.si. Tucked away between mountain meadows
and thick forests just outside the tiny village of Govejk, which
lies in the hills to the east of Spodnja Idrija on the main road
to Žiri, Na Kluk offers nine tidy little rooms with a total of 28
beds. Modest but well-kept, the place is perfect for visitors
looking to explore the surrounding natural sights on either
bike or foot, or just relax under the shade of a tree as time
slows to a crawl. We especially like the rooms upstairs with
wood-panelled ceilings, but as they are all themed on different colours, you may want to ask what’s available when you
check-in. TL
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Idrija
Where to Eat
Gostilna Kos Tomšičeva 4, tel. +386 (0)5 372 20 30,
www.gostilna-kos.si. One of the oldest restaurants in
Idrija, it’s impossible to miss Gostilna Kos as you cross the
the bridge leading into the centre of the town. The speciality
of the house is what else but žlikrofi, with bakalco (mutton)
and goulash being the most popular sauces to go along
with the potato-filled dumplings. They usually have at least
a few hearty set-menus to choose from at lunch time, and
the ground floor dining area (and restroom) is also wheelchair
accessible. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Mon 07:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. PAUBX
Gostilna Metka Črni Vrh 78, tel. +386 (0)41 211
443/+386 (0)5 3777 015, [email protected],
www.gostilnametka.com. Sitting atop the Črni Vrh plateau
in the centre of a cosy little village of the same name, Gostilna
Metka (or Gostilna pri Metki as it is sometimes called) is a
family-run restaurant and guesthouse that was first opened
in 1888. The traditional food is roundly excellent, and trying
the Ferdinand dessert after your meal is a must. At an altitude
of over 700m, a trip here offers a refreshing break during the
hot summer months, and with six guest rooms available it
also makes an great base for exploring the plateau on foot or
bike. Bed and breakfast is €25 per person, and full-board is
an absolute steal at only €30. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. PTALB
Gostilna Mlinar Žirovska 4, Spodnja Idrija, tel.
+386 (0)5 377 63 16. This is not only the best place to
try Idrija’s famous žlikrofi, but it’s also one only a handful
of restaurants in Slovenia that we consider amongst our
personal favourites. Run by the husband and wife team
Drago and Mira, he is about the friendliest host you can
imagine, while she produces some wonderful dishes in
the kitchen. The aforementioned žlikrofi come in a dozen
different mouthwatering varieties - or a different one for
each month as they like to say - while the rest of the menu
is equally appetising. Drago is also rightfully proud of his
carefully composed wine list, and finishing a meal without
a glass of homemade schnapps is simply unthinkable. A
terrace with sweeping views of the valley below and a play
area for the kids round out the offer. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PTALB
Gostilna Pri Škafarju Ulica Svete Barbare 9, tel.
+386 (0)5 377 32 40, [email protected], www.
skafar.si. Named for the legendary bucket maker who first
discovered Idrija’s mercury over 500 years ago, this place
has a great atmosphere, whether you sit downstairs in view
of the wood-fired pizza oven, upstairs in the room lined with
the iconic works of a famous local artist, or at one of the
handfuls of tables outside. Perhaps more importantly it has
Idrija
some of the best food around, including what may very well
be our favourite vegetarian dish in all of Slovenia: the spinach
štruklji with cream sauce (which we admittedly first ordered
by accident). The are also four newly opened guest rooms,
which offer cosy modern accommodation in the very centre of
town. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed
Tue. PTJAB
Gostilna Žlikrof Vojkova 14, tel. +386 (0)5 377 11
65/+386 (0)51 428 606, [email protected]. A
newish place that serves up inexpensive meals by the dozens
to a clientele consisting primarily of workers from nearby
companies on their lunch breaks, given the prominently
placed word ‘žlikrofi’ on the façade you don’t get any prize for
guessing what the most popular dish on the menu is (hint: it’s
not spaghetti). To find the place just keep an eye out for the
round façade on your right on the main road to Spodnja Idrija.
QOpen 07:30-22:00 Mon-Thur, 07:30-23:00 Fri, 11:00-23:00
Sat and 11:00-15:00 Sun.
Cafés
Amigos Rožna 8, tel. +386 (0)5 37 41578. The
first, and so far only, palačinkarnica that we’ve ever come
across, in addition to the expectedly wide selection of both
savoury and sweet pancakes (or crepes if you’re American)
you’ll find a popular café that was lovingly renovated,
expanded, designed and decorated over the years by the
owner and manager - she even makes her own chocolate!
The large covered terrace on the small square-cum-car
park outside can get lively in the evenings during the
warmer months, and is also a great place to enjoy your
ice cream or other dessert during the day. QOpen 08:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. PTJB
Galerija Bar Ulica Sv. Barbare 4. This recently renovated
café in the centre of the old town features red ceilings, moody
soft lighting and an eclectic selection of contemporary art
on the walls - all of which can be purchased from the artists.
The thoroughly modern interior is supplemented by some
shaded tables in the alleyway outside, and the clientele is
a mixed group ranging from young people drinking draught
beers and old men reading newspapers to tourists enjoying
cocktails. Small warm snacks are also available. Q Open
06:30-23:00 Mon-Thur, 06:30-24:00 Fri-Sat and 08:0023:00 Sun. PJBW
Kavarna Idrija Tel. +386 (0)31 356 554. This place
would be cool and trendy even if it were in the capital
Ljubljana (although it would likely be called Art Café or
something similar), which makes it a pleasantly surprising find in a town the size of Idrija. Hosting temporary
exhibitions by international artists as well as frequent
concerts and other events, this is easily the hippest
place to drink while you’re in town. Located in the same
stately building as city hall in the centre of the old town,
its large picture windows and comfortable modern décor
make it a fine place to relax with a coffee during the day
as well. PJEBW
Pri Zagodu Gregorčičeva 69, tel. +386 (0)5 377 35
These spinach štruklji tasted even better than they look,
photo by YMB
EDEN Slovenia
05. After a long day of fishing there’s no better place to come
and satiate your thirst than this classic countryside bar, set
just south of town on the main road opposite a large bend in
the river. While the regular customers may not speak much
English, they’re definitely a friendly lot, and the curious sight
of a foreign visitor in their midst is sure to put you on the
receiving end of some good-natured attention.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Gostišče Barbara Kosovelova 3, tel. +386 (0)5 37
71 162, www.kut.si. Located on the first floor above the
Anthony’s Shaft mining museum and information centre, this
bright modern restaurant attracts a mix of locals and tourists,
and has a good selection of regional dishes and interesting
delicacies - if you’ve always wanted to try deer steak with
chocolate sauce this is your chance! Ask to see the sheet with
the specials of the month, as these multi-course set-menus
always feature tasty seasonal dishes and are also usually the
best value. Q Open 09:00-22:00 Mon-Thur, 09:00-23:00 FriSat, 10:00-22:00 Sun and holidays. PTJALBSW
Gostišče Mostičer Mokraška Vas 1, Spodnja Idrija, tel.
+386 (0)5 377 61 17/+ 386 (0)41 444 969, branko.
[email protected]. Reached via a massive through arch bridge
on the road to Spodnja Idrija Mostičer is a popular place for
local families to gather for important birthdays, wedding
receptions, anniversaries and other special events. While
the outside is rather nondescript, the interior has character
in spades, with wooden beam ceilings, a bar for grizzled fisherman to congregate at before heading home to their wives,
and a room dedicated to Josip Broz Tito - we’re still unclear
if he ever ate here, but his portrait is on the wall. Fresh river
fish is the highlight of the menu, and dining outside along the
river near the children’s playground is a must if the weather
allows for it. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. TALB
What to See
Essential Idrija
Gewerkenegg Castle & Idrija Municipal Museum
(Mestni Muzej Idrija) Prelovčeva 9, tel. +386 (0)5
37 26 600, [email protected], www.
muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. Idrija’s award-winning city museum
is housed in the 16th century Gewerkenegg Castle, which
towers over the old town from its perch on a small hillock
to the west. Built in the 1533, the castle’s somewhat odd
sounding name is said to have come from the old German
word for mine or mining company (Gerwerke) and the surname
of the Habsburg vice regent (Jurij Egg) who was in charge of
the mine at the time of the castle’s construction.
First used as a simple storage facility for wheat and mercury,
the castle long-served as the administrative offices for the
mine, and at various times over the centuries parts of the
castle also functioned as offices for other enterprises,
schools and residential quarters. Its appearance largely
dates back to the mid-18th century when renovations were
carried out in the Baroque style, and it was also extensively
renovated in the early 1990s. It has been the home of Idrija’s
Municipal Museum, and music school, since 1953, which
boasts a total of 26 separate exhibition rooms that cover a
total space of 1300m2.
The museum’s highlights include the mineralogical and petrographic collection, where among other items you can view
a bowl of liquid mercury with a solid iron ball floating in it and
pick up a mercury-rich chunk of cinnabar, and the Idrija lace
collection, which was opened in 2008 and details the history
of the city’s lace production from its 17th century beginnings
all the way up to modern lace fashion by some of Slovenia’s
top designers. However, the single most impressive lace
piece may be the large intricate tablecloth that was created
by a team of 12 master lacemakers in the 1970s as a gift
for Tito’s wife Jovanka (which was never actually given to the
Yugoslav first lady due to a dispute with the protocol office).
Other exhibitions not to be missed are the so-called Mercury
Tower (which combines mining equipment with modern art),
a collection of artefacts from the time of Italian and German
occupation, and a fine modern art collection donated by Idrijaborn Valentina Orsini Mazza. It was named the best European
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
The imposing façade of Gewerkenegg Castle, photo by
Dunja Wedam
museum of industrial and technical heritage in 1997, and also
received Slovenia’s top museum prize in 2008.
In addition to the physical premises, the museum also boasts
one of the most user-friendly and informative websites we’ve
seen, which details the individual collections held at Gewerkenegg Castle as well as the separate sites it manages around
Idrija (the Partisan Print Shop, Miner’s House, etc). Q Open
09:00-18:00. Admission €3.50, children and students €1.70.
Anthony’s Shaft Arkova 43, tel. +386 (0)5 377 11
42, [email protected], www.rzs-idrija.si. Anthony’s
Shaft - or Anthony’s Main Road as it is sometimes called, as it
long served as the mine’s main entrance - is the oldest part
of Idrija’s unimaginably expansive underground world, which
was once comprised of some 700km of shafts. Located at
the spot where the mine was initially dug in the year 1500,
an 18th century building called the Šelštev now serves as a
living museum, education centre and entry point for tours into
the mine itself, and is a must-see sight for those interested
in Idrija’s rich mining history.
Most visits begin with a screening of a short film (available in
several languages) that gives a detailed history of the mine,
from its geological origins to its discovery in 1490 by a now
legendary bucket maker and the ensuing development and
expansion of both the mine and town that occurred as a result.
Special attention is paid to the lives of the hard-working miners whose sweat and blood made it possible, and prepares
viewers for the journey they are about to embark on.
While the majority of the mine was backfilled before being
officially closed in 1995, part of that still open has been set
up for tours, which take visitors some 100m below the earth’s
surface and provide a firsthand experience of the conditions
the miners worked under. One of the subterranean highlights
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Idrija
Idrija
Churches
Church of St Anthony and the Cavalry Thanks to its
position atop Rožna Hill overlooking Idrija below, the Church
of St Anthony is the most visible church of any in the region,
which is fitting as it was originally built by the town’s miners
in honour of their patron, St Anthony of Padua, towards the
end of the 17th century. The adjacent Calvary, with its 13
smaller chapels and large upper one, which stretch their way
even higher up the hill, were completed in 1766. Representing
the 14 stations of the cross, despite being much smaller than
the church they perhaps add even more visual splendour to
the entire location. The church’s interior is of a baroque style
Idrija’s Mercury Mine
What life was like working in Idrija’s mercury mine, photo
by YMB
is the 18th century chapel of the Holy Trinity, with statues
depicting the patron saints of mining, St Barbara and St
Acacius. This is where the miners offered their prayers for
successful work and safe return before entering Attem’s
Shaft and descending to a depth of 200m.
The tour lasts around an hour and a half, and once you’re back
up in the light of day there’s a small gift shop where sadly you
can’t buy any liquid mercury (as this would be illegal), but you
can ask to hold a small glass jar of the stuff they have behind
the counter - be careful, it weighs a couple of kilograms! Q
Open 10:00-15:00 Tues-Fri. Tours depart at 10:00, 15:00 and
16:00 on Sat-Sun and holidays, or by prior arrangements for
groups. Admission €7, children €4, multi-vision presentation
only €2. Discounts for groups of 15 or more.
Francis’ Shaft and Technical Museum Bazoviška 2,
tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600, tajnistvo@muzej-idrija-cerkno.
si, www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. Now under the administration of the Idrija City Museum, the collection of technical
equipment and machinery at Francis’ Shaft was one of the
main beneficiaries of the massive effort to modernise the
city’s mines shortly after the Second World War. Although it
may seem like the subject matter of the museum would only
appeal to a niche audience, which is both knowledgable and
enthusiastic about century-old Austrian-built steam-powered
mining winches or six-stage centrifugal pumps of Czech origin,
the various pieces of Idrija’s industrial past were impressive enough to grab our attention for a surprisingly bit of
time.
That said, if you’re a mining novice like us, it’s probably best
to drop by after already having visited the City Museum’s main
exhibition space in the castle and taking the tour of Anthony’s
Shaft, which will make it easier to appreciate everything in its
larger historical and technical context. Q Open 09:00-16:00.
Admission €2, children and students €1.30.
EDEN Slovenia
Quite simply put, Idrija was built upon the world’s second
largest mercury mine and likely owes its existence, history and fortune (both good and bad) to the only metal
that is found in a liquid form under standard conditions:
quicksilver, Hydragyrum, Hg, atomic number 80, mercury.
Known as živo sebro (living silver) in Slovene, legend has
it that mercury was first discovered here at the end of the
15th century by a tub maker who witnessed it trickling out
of the rocks in its native form while he was testing out one
of his buckets in a small stream. Created in the form of
mercury rich cinnabar ore some 235 million years earlier
during a period of intense tectonic and volcanic activity, by
1500 a small mine and smelting plant had already been
established, and thus began the extraction process that
would continue for over 500 years.
The cinnabar ore found here is exceptionally high grade,
with up to 78% mercury content, and over its five centuries
of operation the mine produced a staggering 13% of all
the mercury ever mined in the world - making it second
only to the famous Almadén mine in Spain, which was
active for nearly five times longer. During an exceptionally
productive period at the end of the 18th century, the value
of mercury from Idrija’s mine accounted for 5% of the total
economic output of the Habsburg Empire, an amount that
is almost unfathomable by today’s standards. Due to both
local environmental concerns and falling international
demand, the mine began a two-decade process of winding
down operations, which included backfilling most of the
700km of shafts out of which 107,000 tons of mercury
had been carried.
Nowadays visitors can visit the building that formerly
served as the mine’s main entrance, Anthony’s Shaft,
where they can watch a short video presentation explaining its history in more detail and take a tour through a
section of the mine that is still open. In June 2012, the
mercury mines of Idrija and Almadén were jointly recognised as official UNESCO world heritage sites.
The contemporary stained glass windows at the Church of the Holy Trinity feature some unusual images, photo by Branka
Jovanović
that is typical for rural Slovenia, with the majority of the paintings and sculptures executed by local artists during the 19th
century, including the expectedly resplendent main altar by
Luka Čeferin in 1837. With the construction of the new parish
church of St Joseph the Labourer in 1969, local churchgoers
are no longer required to hike up the hill on Sunday mornings,
but it is still a popular venue for weddings, first communions
and other ceremonies.
Church of the Holy Trinity Ulica Nikolaja Pirnata,
tel. +386 (0)5 374 39 16, [email protected]. More than
just an active building of worship or a monument to over five
centuries of architectural styles, this small church perched
up the hill from the main square is the symbolic heart of Idrija
and a testament to the town’s history of wealth, perseverance
and preservation.
Set on the very spot where mercury was first discovered in
1490 - a fact that is confirmed by a still surviving document
from Udine in Italy - the church initially took the form of the
small wooden chapel, which was subsequently expanded
and modified over the the next two hundred years. With the
completion of the much larger parish church of St Barbara at
the beginning of the 18th century, the Holy Trinity was left
neglected and had fallen into disrepair by the middle of the
19th century, so much so that the townspeople considered
turning it into a store room for mercury, or even demolishing
it altogether. Luckily, the archbishop of Ljubljana at the time,
Alojzij Wolf, who coincidentally happened to be from Idrija,
interceded to ensure that the church was protected.
In the early 1980s the municipality undertook lengthy renovations, which restored the building and furnishings, while
emphasising its contrasting stylistic elements. The one
embellishment made was the addition of some exquisite
stained glass windows around the presbytery that combine
Biblical themes with Idrija’s history, and are perhaps now the
church’s most interesting detail.
Museums & Exhibitions
Idrija Aquarium Prelovčeva 5, tel. +386 (0)40 33 66
Photo by Jani Peternelj
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
99/+386 (0)5 37 71 130, [email protected], www.
akvarij-m.si. What started as the private collection of a local
fish and reptile enthusiast has since grown into a full-fledged
aquarium that is now run by the city. Despite its small size
and visible spots of wear-and-tear, this place manages to
pack in a dizzying number and variety of exotic fish in some
three dozen separate aquariums - including piranhas, eels,
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
various tropical species and even some clownfish, the latter
of which will forever associated with the film Finding Nemo.
A selection of other animals also call the premises home,
among which are a lazy iguana, some curious turtles and a
couple of poison dart frogs. The highly qualified and Englishspeaking staff members will be more than happy to show you
around, pointing out the highlights and providing further information about each animal. When we last visited a children’s
education centre was also in the works. Q Open 14:00-19:00
Tues-Fri, 13:00-19:00 Sat-Sun and holidays. Closed Mon.
Admission €5, children ages 3-18 €3, under 3 free.
Idrija Military Museum Kosovelova 23, tel. +386 (0)5
377 16 88, [email protected]. Aficionados of military history
shouldn’t miss Idrija’s petite but memorable homage to the
conflicts and occupation that took place on Slovene soil
during the 20th century. What it lacks in size, it makes up
for with the sheer number of individual items on display in its
three rooms, which are arranged by event if not chronology.
The first room covers the ultimately successful struggle for
national liberation during World War II, as well as a few items
from the contemporary Slovene armed forces.
The second room is dedicated to the World War I, with light
equipment, uniforms and weapons used by soldiers fighting on
the frontlines across Europe. While the third and largest room
has a collection from the years when Idrija along with much of
the west of Slovenia was occupied by Italy (1919-1945), and
also documents the country’s 10-day war of independence in
1991. With so many tightly packed items presented, it’s the
kind of place that you are practically guaranteed to see things
for the first time, no matter if it’s your first visit or your tenth.
Miner’s House Bazoviška 4, tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600,
[email protected], www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. If you come here before heading down into the tunnels
below Anthony’s Mine Shaft, the low ceilings, dark walls and
slightly miniaturised furnishings will likely feel claustrophobic.
On the other hand, if this is your second stop of the two, then
it may feel downright spacious in comparison. The point being, Idrija’s miners tended not to be the largest of people, and
their homes were built accordingly. Consisting of four floors
rising up out of a foundation not much larger than 20m2 the
houses were usually shared by several families, and are still
a common sight in and around Idrija. However, most have long
since had their interiors remodelled to incorporate modern
comforts and larger spaces, with the house at Bazoviška 4
being the only exception.
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Idrija
The mysterious Wild Lake is one of the main attractions of
the Zgornja Idrijca Landscape Park, photo by Samo Trebižan
Dating back to 18th century, the house was purchased by
the Idrija Municipal Museum in 1985, and is now a protected
cultural monument after being painstakingly restored to its
original condition. On the ground floor there’s a traditional
‘black kitchen’ used for cooking, a living room area complete
with board games and heirlooms, and a tiny bedroom with
a pint-sized bed for two - which our guide slyly credited as
one of the reason women in Idrija used to have so many
children. Q Open 09:00-16:00. Admission €2, children and
students €1.30.
Natural Heritage
Divje Jezero Literally translated as ‘wild lake’, there’s more
to this small pool of water than meets the eye. Found only a
couple of kilometres south of Idrija, at the base of nearly 100m
high sheer rock cliffs, the setting is undeniably impressive,
Sport Fishing on the Idrijca
The crystal clear waters of the Idrijca river make for some
prime fishing grounds - a fact that the locals have known
and taken advantage of since at least the 13th century.
In fact, it was so popular an activity that by the beginning
of the 20th century the river’s fish stocks had become
dangerously depleted, leading to the formation of Idrija’s
first fishing association in 1947. Since then, careful
preservation and repopulation measures have lead to
a marked increase in fish, and the river now regularly attracts professional anglers and amateur enthusiasts from
all of Europe. Fishing licenses can be bought at numerous
locations around town - including Hotel Jožef, where guests
receive a 20% discount - with prices depending on where
exactly you’d like to fish.
Idrija
especially during the spring months when several varieties
of native flowers cover the surrounding area in a carpet of
white, yellow and intense purple blossoms.
While we were admittedly sceptical when first told by locals
that the lake was bottomless, not only is this claim true, but
several experienced divers have lost their lives trying to find
its subterranean source. What is currently known for sure
is that the lake originates from a Vauclusian karst spring of
at least 400m in length and more than 160m in depth, and
is the second most important spring of this type in all of
Europe - with only the namesake spring outside the village
of Vaucluse in Avignon, France more well-known.
Fed by a series of underground waterways that cover an area
of some 125km2 above ground, during the heaviest rains the
lake can discharge an enormous 100m3 of water per second
into the 55m long Jezernica river (which is the shortest in
Slovenia), while during the drier autumn months the flow can
slow to a trickle and the river completely disappears. In 1967,
the area was designated as the first protected natural monument in Slovenia, and now includes a small walking path, signs
detailing some of the extensive flora and fauna and benches
on which to rest while contemplating the magnitude of what
lies beneath the turquoise surface.
Rake Water Chanel and Footpath Constructed some
400 years ago to power the massive kamšt (or water wheel
pump) outside Joseph’s Shaft mine entrance, the Rake water
channel runs nearly 3km into the Zgornja Idrijca landscape
park to the Kobila Dam. The original wooden structure was
replaced by brick and stone in the mid-18th century, and while
the flowing water no longer powers the kamšt, it is still used
to this day to generate power at Lenštat hydro-electric plant.
The pathway is well-kept, even during the snowy winter
months, and is extremely popular with locals, with doctors
often prescribing daily walks to patients recovering from heart
problems. For those interested in the region’s diverse plant
life, there are informative signs posted along the length of
the trail, beginning with the Scopoli Memorial Garden, which
is named after Johannes Antonius Scopoli, Idrija’s first doctor and an avid botanist who wrote extensively on the area’s
vegetation among other topics.
At the path’s opposite end, the reservoir behind the sizeable
dam was a popular swimming spot in the 1960s and 70s,
with ample photographic evidence showing locals enjoying
themselves during the summer, but nowadays is most notable for the karst springs that flow out of the rocks next to
it. From this point trails lead further into the landscape park,
and you can also reach
EDEN Slovenia
Photo by Jani Peternelj
Mercury and lace are indeed an odd couple, but they
are also the two things most inextricably connected to
both Idrija’s past and present - mercury being the main
driver of its economy for nearly 500 years, while its
centuries-old lacemaking tradition has more recently
become the most recognisable symbol of the town.
The oldest document that mentions Idrija’s lacemaking is from the very end of the 17th century, but the
tradition almost certainly dates back much further as
at this time tradesmen were already buying finished
lace products from local women who produced it in
their homes while their husbands were at work in the
mines. Far from being just a hobby, the craft provided
a valuable second source of income for local families.
It was not until the end of the 19th century that the
production of lace moved from individual homes and
become a more standardised industry in Idrija.
Credit for this transformation is often given to a young
local lady, Ivanka Ferjančič, who brought lacemaking to
the attention of some important people in Vienna and
lobbied for the establishment of Idrija’s first lacemaking school in 1876. Ms Ferjančič became the school’s
first teacher, but unfortunately died three years later
at the age of only 29. However, her memory will never
be forgotten, and thanks to her work the school is still
operating today with up to 400 part-time students at
any given time.
Fishing Association of Idrija (Ribiška Družina
Idrija) [email protected], www.rd-idrija.si. The local
fishing association in Idrija is an invaluable resource for
visiting anglers. Their multi-lingual website includes everything you need know about different fishing districts in
the region and the different types of fish they contain. And
if you can‘t find what you need, they are glad to respond
to any enquiries sent via email.
Idrija Lace
The Rake footpath is Idrija’s most popular jogging route,
photo by Dunja Wedam
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Of the many exhibitions and galleries located in and
around Idrija’s old town, the best place to view the history of the tradition and the see exquisite examples of
finished lace products is the multi-room exhibition at the
City Museum that was opened in 2008. And of course
there is also the annual Idrija Lace Festival, which is
held on the third weekend in June and is now in its 32
year.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Lace Shops
Čipka Art 2000 Mestni Trg 14, tel. +386 (0)5 37 22
537, [email protected]. Q Open 09:00-18:00.
Closed Sun in winter.
Čipkarska Šola Idrija Prelovčeva 2, tel. + 386
(0)5 37 34 570, [email protected], www.cipkarskasola.si. QOpen 09:00-12:00, Wed 09:00-17:00.
Closed Sat-Sun.
Šiviljstvo Mal Lidija Anzelm Prelovčeva 9, Castle
Gewerkenegg, tel. +386 (0)5 37 73 788. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00.
Studio Irma Vončina Mestni Trg 17, tel. +386 (0)5
377 15 84, [email protected]. Q Open 10:0012:00 and 13:00-16:00, Sat 10:00-12:00. Closed Sun.
Studio Koder Mestni Trg 16, tel. + 386 (0)5 37
71 359, [email protected]. Q Open 10:00-12:00 and
16:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-12:00. Closed Sun.
Trgovina Vanda Mestni Trg 13, tel. +386 (0)5 37 73
444, [email protected], www.vanda-lapajne.si.
Q Open Tues-Wed 16:00-19:00, Thur-Fri 09:00-12:00.
Closed Sat-Mon.
Photo by Dunja Wedam
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Idrija
Idrija
stone. The foremost architect of these monumental water
barriers was local Renaissance man Joseph Mrak, a mining
expert, cartographer, cave topographer, painter and builder,
who also designed a mechanism for more efficiently opening
and closing the Klaže’s massive doors that controlled the
release of water.
This system was in use until the 1920s, after which they fell
into a state of disrepair and slowly began to deteriorate. However, in the 1980s several of them were restored and are now
protected as a unique part of Idrija’s technological and cultural
heritage, and can be visited independently or with a guide.
Idrija Žlikrofi
Often described as a ravioli-type dish, Idrija’s famous
žlikrofi dumplings were the first Slovene dish to receive
recognition and protection under the EU’s Traditional
Speciality Guaranteed label, which took place in 2010,
some eight years after it had been granted traditional
product status domestically by the Slovenian Ministry
of Agriculture.
While the comparison to Italian ravioli is not completely
unfounded, as žlikrofi are essentially stuffed pasta dumplings that are boiled - indeed even we had long assumed
this relation before we first tried them ourselves - they
are a completely unique culinary speciality. And in fact,
they are thought to have first come to Idrija by way of a
German mining family sometime early in the 19th century,
as the name bears some resemblance to the German
word ‘schlichtkrapfen’ or ‘slippery dumpling’. Although
the exact origins are still, and will likely remain, unclear,
as a matter of historical record they had already become
well-known in Idrija by the mid-19th century. Regardless
of where they came from, the end result is tasty, or at
least has been every time we’ve had them.
The filling consists of mashed potatoes mixed with
smoked bacon (or fried lard), onions and various seasonings and herbs, which is then wrapped in homemade eggflour dough and formed into something of a hat shape.
But what really makes žlikrofi special are the sauces that
accompany them, with mutton or rabbit with vegetables
(bakalca) being the most common, and local restaurants
usually having at least a half dozen options and some offering a dozen or more, including sweet dessert versions
that are filled with minced walnuts. As the locals say: if
you haven’t tried žlikrofi, then you haven’t been to Idrija!
Feast of Idrija Žlikrofi
Held the first Saturday each September, this culinary
event aims to promote Idrija’s traditional žlikrofi with
a series of workshops, demonstrations, tastings and
other events. If you’ve never had the chance to taste
these famous dumplings then this is a great chance to
see what you’ve been missing - and even if you have, it’s
a great excuse to pay Idrija another visit.
Tourist Farms
The Kamšt is the largest wooden water wheel in Europe,
photo by Samo Trebižan
Technical Heritage
Kamšt Water Wheel Vodnikova, tel. +386 (0)5 37
26 600, [email protected], www.muzejidrija-cerkno.si. While the aged stone building surrounded
by sports fields and tennis courts along a bend in the Idrijca
River is impressive enough from the outside, the façade gives
few hints as to the magnitude of what’s contained within its
walls: namely, the largest wooden wheel in Europe. Measuring
13.6 metres in diameter, this absurdly large structure was built
in 1790, and operated more or less continuously until 1948.
Idrija’s miners began building such wheels as far back as the
end of the 16th century in order to supply power for lifting
ore and pumping water out of the pits. Somewhat ironically,
they were also powered by water, which in this case came
from a channel that was diverted 3.5km upriver and still
serves as a popular jogging path nowadays. When it was
operational the wheel rotated at the very judicious rate of
4.5 revolutions per minute and managed only a modest 100
horse-power, however, thanks to its girth it was still able to
pump approximately 300 litres of water per minute from
depths of almost 300 metres.
Although the wheel and its premises were completely
restored in recent years (and look as if they could have just
been built!), not only is everything original, but it’s also the
last remaining device of its type in Slovenia that is still in its
original location. Q Open 09:00-16:00. Admission €2, children
and students €1.30.
Turistična Kmetija Pr’ Jureč Ledine 19, Spodnja
Idrija, tel. +386 (0)5 37 79 096/+386 (0)41 919 473,
[email protected], www.pr-jurec.net. Set in the hills high
above Idrija on the Ledine Plateau, Pr’ Jureč is a tourist farm
unlike any of the many others we’ve had the pleasure of visiting in Slovenia. While they serve up delectable homemade
cuisine and offer seemingly limitless glasses of excellent
Slovene wine, what really sets the place apart is what they
have hidden in the barn. Calling it simply an ethnological
museum would be a grave disservice, as the numerous items
on display are not only meant to be viewed, but are also put
to their intended uses by the eager curator, tour guide and
owner of the farm Dušan Bogataj.
An excitable fellow, Mr Bogataj leads groups through a
comprehensive collection of tools, equipment and personal
possessions that had been passed down from previous
generations, and in some cases stored for nearly two
centuries before being dusted off and put back into service.
Every facet of rural life is on display here from shoe repair
and cooking utensils to large horse-drawn ploughs and
more modern 20th century tractors. Perhaps the most interesting - and sometimes interactive - part of the tour is an
educational demonstration of how one of humanities most
basic ingredients, flour, is produced, which begins with a pile
of wheat and ends with a loaf of bread fresh out of the oven
of Mrs Bogataj. Of course as with many things in Slovenia,
the tour is not finished until you’ve sampled a few glasses of
homemade schnapps. A highly informative, entertaining and
tasty place to visit indeed.
Klavže The so-called ‘pyramids of Slovenia’ are another of
Žlikrofi with traditional bakalca sauce, photo by Andrej
Križ
EDEN Slovenia
Idrija’s sights that are inextricably connected with the town’s
mining history. Melting down the mercury-rich cinnabar ore
extracted from the earth in order to obtain more easily transportable pure liquid mercury was an energy intensive task,
which required huge amounts of timber to be burned to heat
furnaces to some 600°C.
Luckily Idrija was - and thanks to good management still
is - surrounded by vast forests. However, getting the fallen
trees from the surrounding countryside to the smelting plants
was a tricky matter in the time before mechanised transport
and modern logging equipment. To overcome this problem,
an ingenious system was implemented whereby trees were
slid down hillsides to small riverbeds, where dams were built
and reservoirs were released to carry the wood all the way
into town.
Towards the end of the 16th century these structures, or
Klavže as they are known, were made of wood themselves,
but by the end of the 18th century the design had been refined
and they were now more soundly constructed of brick and
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Around Idrija
Partisan Cemetery This burial ground for the parti-
san fighters who lost their lives in April 1945 at a major
battle near Vojščica on the Vojsko Plateau is one of the
largest and most visually interesting World War II memorials you’ll see anywhere in Slovenia. Set in an open field
a few kilometres to the north of the village of Vojsko, the
site consists of three dozen or so rounded stones of different sizes bearing the names of the 305 brave soldiers
from the 9th Corps who perished here, and the entire
ground is surrounded by a short stone wall. This area was
a focal point of the national liberation struggle against
the occupying forces, and saw frequent fighting during
the war, however, this was one of the bloodiest days
and occurred less than a month before the war came
to an end in Slovene territory. A visit here can easily be
combined with the nearby Partisan Printing Shop, ideally
on a day hike across the larger Vojsko Plateau.
Slovenian Partisan Printing Shop Vojsko 64,
tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600, [email protected], www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. If the exhibition of original printed works at the City Museum pique
your interest, a follow-up trip to the legendary partisan
printing shop hidden away in the forest below Vojsko
plateau is a must. First set up in September 1944, to call
it simply a ‘printing shop’ is a vast understatement, as
the facilities are comprised of an engine room, kitchen,
dining room, composing room, binding station and an
electric power plant, where between 40-50 people at a
time worked until May 1945.
The trickiest endeavour in setting up the place was
procuring the modern electric printing machine, which
was purchased in Milan at a cost of over one million
Italian lira, disassembled and transferred illegally to
the newly constructed facilities. However, the money
and effort were well spent, as the machine is still
operational to this day. During its eight months of
operation, the main activity was printing the Partisan
Daily, which had a circulation of between 4000 and
7000 copies and has the rather impressive distinction
of being the only daily opposition newspaper printed in
all of occupied Europe. Numerous brochures, leaflets,
flyers and other items were also printed, and many of
these as well as the original linocuts and engraved lead
seals can be viewed both here and in the City Museum.
Q Open daily 09:00-16:00 from 15 April to 15 October.
Admission €2, children €1.30.
Tourist Agencies
Klažve, the so-called pyramids of Idrija, photo by Samo
Trebižan
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Active Idrija Tourist Agency Mestni Trg 15, tel.
+386 (0)31 291 263/+386 (0)31 601 620, info@
active-idrija.com, www.active-idrija.com. In addition to
all of Idrija’s natural, cultural and technical heritage sites,
the surrounding region also offers many sports activities
- and the professionally trained instructors and guides at
Active Idrija make taking advantage of these opportunities
easy. Some of their most popular activities include hiking,
mountain biking, rock climbing and horseback riding, while
other possibilities include spending the day with a local
hunter (viewing and tracking animals) or taking a scenic
off-road guided tour on remote gravel roads and mountain
tracks. Prices and itineraries of all activities are fixed and
available on the agency’s website, but can also be tailored
to meet the individual needs and wishes of customers.
QOpen 10:00 - 12:00 and 16:00-18:00.
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Kolpa River
Kolpa River
Bela Krajina Hiking and Cycling Paths
The varied landscape of Bela Krajina offers some great
opportunities for hiking and cycling, and the local tourist
offices have produced some excellent free guides detailing over a dozen specific routes that can be covered both
on foot or by bike, and can also provide info on renting
bikes. The very useful 3-D maps make reading the lay of
the land easy, and each route has a lengthy description of
the sights and attractions to watch out for along the way,
as well as technical info about the length, difficulty and
average duration of the trips. The most popular cycling
routes for tourists are unsurprisingly those that follow
along the Kolpa river, although we are personally fond
of the paths that follow the seemingly endless vineyards
running along the edge of the valley east of Črnomelj all
the way to Semič and beyond. Hikers also have a wide
variety of paths to choose from, and organised hikes
take place throughout the year.
Črnomelj
Rafting on the Kolpa river is the region’s most popular summertime activity, photo by Vesmin Kajtozovič, Archive STB
Named a European Destination of Excellence in 2010, the
pristine Kolpa river is often referred to as Slovenia’s longest
coastline. While this distinction is meant to have a bit of
fun at the expense of the country’s diminutive 47km long
Mediterranean coast, it’s more a testament to the Kolpa’s
popularity as an aquatic destination, especially during the
hot summer months when the water of the lower river can
reach a bath-like 30°C. Forming some 113km of Slovenia’s
(Schengen) border with Croatia, the river begins its journey
in Osilnica, the country’s smallest municipality and the
land of Peter Klepec. From there it winds its way through
the breathtaking green hills of Kolpa Gorge, past Kostel’s
famous castle and the thick bear-filled forests of Kočevje,
before it slows down and meanders along the entire south
and east edges of Črnomelj, finally moving through some of
Slovenia’s best wine growing land in Metlika before entering
Croatia and eventually joining the Sava river at the end of its
297km journey.
These lands touched by the Kolpa’s placid waters have
much more to offer visitors than just the river itself though.
They include a diverse selection of protected natural landscapes, rich cultural and culinary heritage, and genuinely
friendly welcoming locals who will make you feel at home
the moment you arrive. In the pages below we’ve presented
a brief overview of the things to see and do in the region,
but if you still need more convincing, or would just like to
see some more photos, you can visit the official Kolpa river
website (yes, even river’s have websites these days) at
www.kolpariver.eu.
Arriving
The most convenient way to reach and explore the Kolpa
river is with your own car. If you’re headed to the areas
of the upper river from Ljubljana, Route 106 will take you
directly to Kočevje in about an hour, and then it’s just a
matter of following the sign south from there to Kostel
and Osilnica. If the slower moving waters of the lower river
EDEN Slovenia
in the region of Bela Krajina is your destination, take the
motorway in the direction of Zagreb to the Ivančna Gorica
exit, pass through the pretty little town of Žužemberk
and onwards on Route 216 through the forests until
you emerge near Semič (alternatively, you can take the
motorway all the way to Novo Mesto and head south from
there to Metlika). As for public transport, buses are your
only option to the upper river, with a trip to Kočevje taking
about 1.5hrs and leaving every hour or so on weekdays.
For Bela Krajina and the lower river, the train is a much
better option, with up to a dozen per day making the 2-3hr
journey from Ljubljana to Metlika via Črnomelj.
Tourist information
TIC Črnomelj Trg Svobode 3, tel. +386 (0)7 30
56 530, [email protected], www.belakrajina.si, www.kolpariver.eu. The tourist information
centre located inside Črnomelj’s castle also serves
as the main info point for the Bela Krajina region, and
actually pulls triple duty as the official centre for the
entire destination of the Kolpa river. In other words,
if you can’t get the info or answers you’re looking for
here, then you might as well stop looking. In addition
to piles of useful maps, brochures and booklets,
there’s also a small gift shop with the most typical
traditional crafts. W
TIC Kočevje Ljubljanska 26, tel. +386 (0)1 89
382 26, [email protected], www.kocevje.si.
TIC Kostel Vas 4, tel. + 386 (0)1 89 48 070, info@
kostel.si, www.info-kostel.si.
TIC Metlika Trg Svobode 4, tel. +386 (0)7 36
35 470, [email protected], www.metlikaturizem.si.
TIC Semič Štefanov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)7 35 65
200, www.kc-semic.si.
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Črnomelj is the largest municipality in Bela Krajina, both in
terms of size and population, with some 14,500 inhabitants
residing on the 340km2 of land within its borders. It’s somewhat ironic then that the medieval old town at the centre of
it all is relatively tiny, squeezed as it were on a narrow raised
strip of land in a tight bend of the slow moving Lahinja river.
The first settlers here didn’t have the foresight of modern
urban planning, as it was still only the Late Iron Age some
3,000 years ago. But in fact, the bit of land on which these
early humans settled provides such as good natural defence
that is has been inhabited more or less continuously ever
since. The first Slavic people moved here at the beginning of
the 10th century, and Slavic identity is perhaps still felt more
strongly in these parts than elsewhere in Slovenia - some
churches still bear symbols from Slavic mythology, and the
most important annual festival also has Slavic roots.
Modern Črnomelj extends northwards from the old town,
and is where you will find the train and bus stations, large
shopping centres and most of the industry in the region.
Aside from a couple of fertile valleys to the west and east
of the town, most of the rest of the municipality is covered
in forests, while the entire south and east are bordered by
the Kolpa river.
What to See in Črnomelj
Church of the Holy Spirit Ulica Mirna Jarca. Set at the
very southern edge of Črnomelj’s old town, above where the
smaller Dobličica flows into the Lahinja river, the Church of
the Holy Spirit is a testament to the town’s long and storied
history, which goes back much further than Christianity itself.
Archeological excavations have found evidence beneath the
church confirming the existence of an Iron Age settlement here,
while an earlier church was built on the exact same location by
the Byzantines during late antiquity, from which parts of the
foundation and some mosaics still exist.
The predecessor of the current church was first mentioned in
the historical record in 1487, but the actual building only dates
to the middle of the 19th century, when it was extensively
renovated and expanded. Severely damaged during the Second World War, the church was subsequently deconsecrated,
and reopened as a cultural space in 2007 after undergoing
further renovations.
In addition to hosting frequent exhibitions by well-known
Slovene and international artists, visitors can also view partially preserved mosaics and see different layers of history
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uncovered by excavations through a transparent section of
the floor. Visits can be arranged though the tourist office at
the other side of town.
Around Črnomelj
Beekeeping Educational Path Žuniči, tel. +386 (0)7
356 52 40, [email protected], www.kp-kolpa.si. Beekeeping has always been an important part of rural life in the Bela
Krajina region, but in recent years it seems that fewer locals
here have the time necessary to devote to the activity. It is
within this context that the Beekeeping Educational Path was
opened in the Kolpa Krajinski Park in 2008, in order to educate
visitors and especially the youth about the role that bees and
beekeeping play in the larger ecological picture. Some 300m
of pathways lead visitors between various different trees,
flowers, shrubs and other plants, all of which are marked with
education boards detailing when they are bloom and how useful
they are for the production of honey. The path is located right
next to the Šokčev Dvor farmstead in the village of Žuniči, and
is usually combined as part of a single tour.
Events in Črnomelj
Jurjevanje www.jurjevanje.si. First held in 1964,
Jurjevanje is the oldest folklore festival in Slovenia, and
in recent years had also become one of the largest.
The festival is actually the culmination of two months of
celebrations that begin with St George’s Day on 24 April,
which officially welcomes the spring season. The cultural programme includes various workshops, lectures
and exhibitions, but the main events are the singing,
dancing and musical heritage performances given by
folklore groups from both Slovenia and abroad. While
the focus is primarily on groups from the Bela Krajina
region, in recent years the organisers have been able to
book some world famous international folklore bands as
well. During the five-day festival the party usually goes
well into the night, with ethno-folk, pop and rock bands
also taking to the stage. Events are held in late June at
several venues in Črnomelj’s old town, but main venue
is the natural amphitheatre called Jurjevanska Draga
located in the north of the town near the train station.
Schengenfest www.schengenfest.si. How can
you not like a festival whose motto is to be ‘bigger and
sexier each year’ - especially when this goal has actually
been accomplished in full for over half a decade? When
Schengenfest first began in 2008, it was little more than a
one-day concert with only half a dozen performers taking
to the stage. Now in just a few short years it‘s grown into a
full-fledged music festival, with dozens of musicians playing over three days, including some of the biggest names
in pop and rock music from Slovenia and neighbouring
countries, including Siddharta, Big Foot Mama, Dan D,
Riblja Čorba and Parni Valjak, as well as well-known international bands such as Kaiser Chiefs, Parov Stellar and
Leningrad Cowboys - and this was only the line-up for 5th
anniversary festival in 2012. With Croatia scheduled to join
the EU any time now (although this has been the case for
years), there‘s no word what will happen when/if the Kolpa
river loses its status as a Schengen border, but we have
faith that the organisers will find a way keep the ‘sound,
sun and fun’ going well into the future. The festival is held
around the first week of August each summer near the
village of Vinica. Three-day passes are between €49-65
depending on how early they‘re purchased, and single day
tickets are also available.
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Kolpa River
Viniška Republika
Vinica is an unassuming village of around 200 residents
some 18km south of Črnomelj, lying just before the Kolpa
river and border with Croatia. It’s also one of our favourite
places in Slovenia. Known nowadays primarily for being
the birthplace of acclaimed early 20th century poet Oton
Župančič, as well as the site of the increasingly famous
Schengenfest music festival (which is “bigger and sexier
each year”), the village has long had a reputation among
the locals of Bela Krajina as a peculiar sort of place.
One legend that perfectly captures the spirit of the
people here goes back to the time when the region was
under the constant threat of Turkish invasion. One day
someone from the village spotted the advancing Ottoman army, and knew that with a population much the
same size as it is today they would be helpless to defend
themselves against the imminent attack. Without hesitation the town elders calmly asked their fellow townsfolk to
quickly gather as many lizards as possible, and then proceeded to catapult a boot full of the tiny reptiles towards
the Turks, which of course struck the general of the army
squarely in the face. Assuming that the village in front of
them was so infested with dragons that their offspring
were falling from the sky, the general made the decision
to find another route and Vinica was spared, although it’s
still unclear if the boot was ever recovered.
As impressive as this legend is, even if it were true it
wouldn’t be the strangest occurrence in the history of
the village, which undoubtedly goes to the events of April
1919. In the confusing weeks and months that followed
the cessation of fighting in the autumn of 1918, but
before comprehensive Treaty of Versailles was signed
in June 1919, the new national borders that would be
carved out of the Austro-Hungarian Empire were not officially established. It was under these circumstances that
the village of Vinica officially declared it’s independence
and became the Republic of Vinica (or Viniška Republika),
electing the 87 year-old Jure Pavelšiča as their president.
But alas, the hard-fought independence of the good
citizens of Vinica was short-lived, as they were forced to
abandon their statehood and once again rejoin the newly
formed Kingdom of Yugoslavia after only five days.
Kolpa River
that weaves the thread into raw linen fabric. We witnessed
several minutes of the work progress millimetre by millimetre
with each pull of the creaky wooden levers, and it made us
tired just watching. After seeing this, visitors will definitely
have more respect for the finished pieces that are displayed
in the small gallery next door, which include both strictly
traditional garments, as well as more modern interpretations.
The second local craft demonstrated here - egg dying - may
seem downright easy in comparison, but it too takes a level
of skill and patience that require years to learn. Although most
people probably remember dying Easter eggs at some point
in their lives, the process of making Bela Krajina’s famous
red and black designs takes it to a whole other level, using
traditional wax applicators and homemade dye. With prior
arrangements groups can experience hands-on workshops
in both of these crafts, and also purchase one-of-a-kind
souvenirs from the gift shop.
Kolpa Krajinski Park Tel. +386 (0)7 356 52 40,
[email protected], www.kp-kolpa.si. The Kolpa Krajinski
Park covers the over 4300 hectares of diverse natural landscapes along the Kolpa river in the southernmost reaches
of the Črnomelj municipality. Stretching from the settlement
of Fučkovci (yes that is the actual name, and yes there is a
sign you can take your photo in front of) in the east to the
town of Stari Trg ob Kolpi in the west, the park includes the
Veliko Bukovje hills between Adlešiči and Vinica as well as the
eastern edges of the vast Kočevje forests.
Beyond simply protecting the natural heritage of the area, one
of the main aims of the park is to promote and preserve the
cultural heritage and traditional way of life or the local people
in environmentally-friendly and sustainable ways. In addition
to the various natural sights for tourists to visit, there are
many well-marked cycling and hiking routes, an educational
path devoted to beekeeping, an ethnological museum at
Šokčev Dvor, organised adventure tours, and of course plenty
of opportunities to enjoy the warm water of the Kolpa river.
First established on the initiative of the local administration in
Črnomelj in 1998, the park has been given further protection
and support by the Slovenian state since 2006.
Šokčev Dvor Žuniči, tel. +386 (0)7 356 52 40, info@
kp-kolpa.si, www.kp-kolpa.si. This traditional Bela Krajina
farmstead in the village of Žuniči, in the heart of the Kolpa
Krajinski Park, is a protected cultural monument and the best
preserved example of this type of architecture. The structure
consists of a family home, a barn and stables that surround a
large inner courtyard, which is enclosed on the fourth side by
a thick stone wall and heavy wooden gate. The house dates
back to the late 18th or early 19th century, but the design is
much older, as it was first developed to protect against pillaging Turkish soldiers in the 15th and 16th centuries. The site
is also a full-fledged ethnological museum, with rooms in the
house arranged as they would have been years ago. Visitors
usually come in groups with prior arrangement, so the hosts
can arrange some light snacks for the end of the tour. Žuniči is
on the main road leading from Vinica to Adlešiči.
especially windy and picturesque stretch of the Kolpa River
Valley, we were amazed to hear that the charming little village
of Stari Trg had never received first place in any of Europe’s
most beautiful village competitions. One long street lined
with well-kept single floor houses comes to an end at the
massive Church of St Joseph’s sitting at the highest point on
the ridge. Nowadays home to just over 100 inhabitants, for
centuries Stari Trg was an important market town (the name
literally means old square in Slovene) and religious centre.
Its primary school is also still a great source of pride, with
roots going all the way back to 1820 it’s one of the oldest
in Slovenia, and was long known to produce some of the
country’s best chess players.
Cvitkovič Traditional Crafts Adlešiči 3, tel. +386
EDEN Slovenia
[email protected], www.belakrajina.si. Located
in the heart of Bela Krajina, the Lahinja Krajinski Park is a
protected area covering the first 7km of the Lahinja river in
the valley just south of Dragatuš. Lovers of nature, history
and rural customs can easily spend the better part of a day
exploring the area on foot (or a bit less by bike). The park
contains several interesting archeological sites, including
the remains of some of the most important Neolithic and
Copper Age settlements in Slovenia, as well as a somewhat
eerie prehistoric village near Pusti Gradec.
Of the many ethnological points of interest in the park, the
highlights for us are the Klepec mill and sawmill, which is little changed since the 17th century and quite amazingly still
functions, and the tiny village of Veliki Nerajec, where friendly
locals will happily show you around and likely treat you to
some buckwheat potica (a local speciality). You won’t be the
first person impressed by the village and hospitality of the
locals, as the place won a European award for countryside
development in 2000.
With two separate nature reserves, natural sights are the
main attraction for most visitors, and the southern portion of
the park has some lovely pastures and forests to walk through
on the way to the source of the Lahinja near the village of Belčji
Vrh. The park also include a portion of the Oton Župančič Path,
which runs from Dragatuš all the way to the famous poet’s
birth house and museum in Vinica and offers the possibility of
extending your walk or ride all the way to the Kolpa.
Stari Trg ob Kolpi Set on a high ridge overlooking an
Nowadays little remains of that glorious 72 hours of
freedom, aside from a monument, the memories and
souvenir T-shirts and currency that can be purchased
online from the Republic’s own website (republika.vinica.
si) - it is the 21st century after all.
(0)7 30 70 028/+386 (0)40 730 504, nada.cvitkovic@
siol.net. In the village of Adlešiči, about 13km southeast of
Črnomelj, you can view two nearly extinct traditional local
crafts still being produced not only in the very same house,
but by the very same woman: Nada Cvitkovič. Although the
traditional linen clothing is one of the most important and
recognisable symbols of the Bela Krajina region, Ms Cvitkovič
is currently one of only two local women who still produce the
material using completely traditional methods. If this seems
strange, the reason is simple, it’s an incredibly painstaking
and labour-intensive process.
While the process of harvesting, drying and transforming
the flax into spools of useable linen threads is understandably time-consuming, the real effort comes in the skill and
strength it takes to operate the massive centuries-old loom
Lahinja Krajinski Park Tel. +386 (0)7 305 65 30,
Metlika
See how Bela Krajina’s traditional Easter eggs are made and then give it a try yourself, photo by YMB
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
One of Bela Krajina’s three main towns, Metlika has a
population of around 3500 (with 8500 or so in the whole
municipality) and several interesting attractions for visitors
aside from the picturesque town itself. The riverside castle
will likely be one of the first draws, housing the regional museum. Firefighting enthusiasts will undoubtedly be fulfilled on
a trip to Metlika as well, as the national museum of firefight-
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Most events in Bela Krajina feature traditional dancers in
the region’s unmistakable white costumes, photo by Tomaž
Urh, Archive RIC
ing (integral to Slovene culture) was founded here in 1969.
Three Gothic churches in nearby Rosalnice are another well
known sight, drawing pilgrims for centuries.
Metlika was officially recognised as a town back in the 15th
century, a century after the area and river Kolpa became
important as the Carniolan/Croatian border. Having been
originally inhabited since pre-historic times, the area of
Bela Krajina then saw some tumultuous times; Ottoman
raids in the 15th and 16th centuries were harsh and a fire in
1705 saw Metlika burned to the ground. It was in the 19th
and early 20th centuries that the town like the whole area
became notable for its craft and trade. Culturally Metlika
seems like something of a mix, traditions of agriculture and
crafts with an injection of modern music in terms of the arts.
What to See in Metlika
Bela Krajina Museum & Metlika Castle Trg Svobode
4, tel. +386 (0)7 306 33 70, belokranjski.muzej@guest.
arnes.si, www.belokranjski-muzej.si. First opened in 1951,
the Bela Krajina Museum does an excellent job of presenting
a comprehensive picture of life in the region from prehistoric
times right up until the museum opened. Renovated and
modernised in time for its 50th anniversary in 2001, visits
to the museum’s permanent collection now begin with an
informative 15min film called ‘The images of Bela Krajina’.
Arranged for the most part chronologically, the oldest items
in the collection are some rudimentary tools used in the area
during the Neolithic period, while the most recent section of
the permanent exhibition covers the difficult interwar years
and WWII. From the latter you can learn how Bela Krajina
became a free partisan territory during the last years of the
war, which was a completely unique phenomenon in Europe.
In other rooms a significant amount of space is dedicated to
the nearly two hundred years of constant threat of invasion by
the Ottoman Turks during the 15th and 16th centuries, and
here is also a very interesting viticulture exhibition, showing
the traditional wine growing methods and equipment from
the last 200 years.
The castle is also home to the Metlika tourist information
centre, a temporary exhibition space and a wine cellar. It’s also
a popular venue for weddings and other events. Elsewhere in
the region the museum manages several other cultural collections including the Kambič Gallery in Metlika, the Semič Local
Museum, the Črnomelj Municipal Museum and the Memorial
Collection of Oton Župančič in Vinica.
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Kolpa River
Kolpa River
need arose - paying back the latter with a steep 50% ‘interest’
the following harvest. A novel system of keeping track of the
accounts using long wooden sticks with lines carved into them
was devised. Extra wine from the cellar was also sold, with
all the proceeds going to things such as maintain pathways,
renovating the town church and paying for funerals. Due to the
accounting involved the cellar is often referred to the town’s
Wine Bank. Visits to the cellar can be arranged in advance.
Vinska Vigred
www.vinskavigred.com. In a region known for its wine,
the Vinska Vigred festival is the largest wine event in
Bela Krajina, attracting thousands visitors to Metlika’s
old town over three days during the third weekend in May
each year. First held more than 30 years ago, the event
began strictly as a wine fair for exhibiting and tasting
local wines, but it has since grown into a multi-faceted
cultural festival as well. Nowadays the festival boasts
three separate stages for music, folklore and other
performances, and various smaller stands presenting
traditional handicrafts, artistic products and of course
lots and lots of wine - there are over 300 different types,
so if you plan to try them all, you’d better pace yourself!
One thing visitors need not worry about is drinking up
an appetite, as there is also lots of tasty food on hand,
including roasted lamb, suckling pigs and of course
plenty of freshly baked Belokranjska pogača flat bread.
Kambič Gallery Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 51, tel.
+386 (0)7 305 8332, [email protected].
si. The namesake of this gallery happens to be a collector,
whose birthhouse it is now housed in. Vinko Kambič (19202001), a doctor, professor and Dean of the Faculty of Medicine
in Ljubljana, and Vilma Bukovec Kambič, his wife and opera
singer, were something of conoisseurs of Slovene impressionists and aggregated names such as Kos, Kregar, Pavlovec,
Perko and Pogačnik. To be found on the ground floor and in
the attic, respectively, are the temporary exhibitions of works
by lesser known artists and the memorial of the collectors
and former proprietors. Being managed by the Bela Krajina
Museum and owned by the Municipality of Metlika, Kambič is
well-run and a pleasure to experience as a visitor.
Otok’s DC-3 If you’re driving from Metlika to Črnomelj and
see something out of the corner of your eye to the left beyond
golden wheat fields, rest assured that you’re not hallucinating,
that is in fact an actual WWII-era Douglas DC-3 - or to be more
precise, it’s technically a modified DC-3 that was referred to
as a C-47 Skytrain or Dakota. What is the plane doing in this
otherwise normal-looking field? Decommissioned by the Yugoslav National Army in the years following the war, it was placed
here to commemorate all of the American and British soldiers
who used such planes to fly wounded partisan fighters from
a makeshift airport in the liberated territory of Bela Krajina to
Allied hospitals in Italy.
Rumour has it that when the plane was first set here, it
contained all of its original equipment, which then slowly
disappeared over the years. Regardless of whether or not this
A bird’s eye view of Metlika’s compact old town, photo by
Dunja Wedam, Archive STB
EDEN Slovenia
The numerous dams along the Kolpa river used to provide
power for mills, but now mainly provide excitement for
rafters, photo by YMB
is actually true, the exterior of the plane has recently been
restored, and looks as if it could still take flight if the moment
called for it. The real mystery for us is not the status or history
of the mighty flying machine, but the fact that no one seems
to know how or why the nearby village of Otok (meaning island
in Slovene) got its name.
Slovenian Firefighters’ Museum Trg Svobode 5,
tel. +386 (0)7 305 86 97, [email protected], www.
metlika.si. In August 1969, the doors were first opened on
this museum dedicated to the historical heritage of firefighting in Slovenia. The date was chosen as it marked the 100th
anniversary of the formation of Slovenia’s very first volunteer
firefighters’ association right here in Metlika. Located in two
separate buildings, both of which are just steps away from
Metlika’s castle in the heart of the old town, the vast collection
is arranged chronologically.
The first gallery covers the founding and development of firefighting in Slovenia with lots of well-presented pre-WWI photos
from associations all over the country, as well as memorabilia
and light equipment such as helmets, uniforms and medals. In
the next hall a similar collection presents the years from WWI
to WWII and beyond, while some old fire engines and other
heavy equipment is displayed in the basement.
The second building, which is to the right of the castle’s entrance, contains an even larger collection of fire engines and
equipment, including one fire engine dating all the way back
to 1836 (which at first may not even be recognisable as a
fire engine), and another from 1908 that was steam-powered
and built in Vienna. The museum is officially named in honour
of Dr Branko Božič, who was the long-time president of the
Firefighting Association of Slovenia and the driving force
behind the museum’s establishment.
Soseska Zidanica Drašiči Drašiči 41, tel. +386 (0)41
753 017/+386 (0)31 306 180, www.soseskadrasici.
net. Outdating the founding of socialist Yugoslavia by nearly
two centuries, the Soseska Zidanica in the village of Drašiči
(or Neighbourhood Wine Cellar as it translates to in English)
developed a community-wide system for sharing wine and
raising funds for community projects at the same time. As with
many great ideas, this one was born out of necessity, as it was
often the case that at times of big events (namely weddings)
individual families did not have a large enough supply of their
own wine to meet the demands of thirsty guests.
Thus is was agreed that a communal wine cellar should be
established, from which every member was free to make ‘deposits’ when they had extra wine and take ‘withdrawals’ if the
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Tri Fare Pilgrimage in Rosalnice Tel. +386 (0)7 305
83 31. A prominant pilgrimage site, Rosalnice’s three Gothic
churches have been suggested to date from perhaps the 12th
century (on account of Valvasor and others). Situated in the
northeastern part of the village of Rosalnice (near Metlika),
the site is ringed by a high wall. The northern of the three,
The Church of Our Lady of Sorrows, is the largest and probably earliest although specific dates are debated. It also has
one of the oldest pipe organs in Slovenia and some unique
frescoes. Building features of the central, Ecce Homo (Behold
the Man) Church, suggest it dates from the late 15th or early
16th century, and elements were added including a prominant
belfry in the 17th century. The southern church is that of Our
Lady of Lourdes, Valvasor being the first to mention it in 1689,
although grafitti recently found suggests the construction
is much older. The historical timeline of the churches is long
and complex, but as a pilgrim site its height of significance
seems to be in the 18-19th centuries, when those of both
Catholic and Orthodox faith congregated here. Guided tours
of the churches can be arranged. Entrance is free of charge.
Vinomer Birch Trees Although Bela Krajina’s famous
birch trees are not as abundant as they were centuries
ago, when the region was given its name in part because
of the vast white forests that grew here, there are still areas
covered with them. The most popular spot to view the trees
(called breza in Slovene) is along the road between Metlika
and Drašiči, where the sight of the thin white trunks is made
all the more intense by the sea of pillowy green ferns that
blanket the entire area. These can grow as high as 2m, but
when they’re cut in the late summer each year it looks almost
like a golf course. The forest is part of Metlika’s protected
Natura 2000 site, and is also several interesting plant and
animal species including Ural Owl.
Vinska Klet Metlika Cesta XV. Brigade 2, tel. +386 (0)7
363 7000, [email protected], www.kz-metlika.si. One of
the images most strongly associated with Metlika, and indeed
all of Bela Krajina, is the bottle of dry red Metliška Črnina wine
and its label depicting a human pyramid with three gentlemen
dressed in the traditional white linen costumes of the region. A
ubiquitous sight in supermarkets across the country, the wine
is produced by Vinska Klet Metlika, which is part of a larger farm
cooperative called Kmetijska Zadruga Metlika.
Working with some 200 individual wine growers with vineyards
in the sun-soaked hills of Bela Krajina, in addition to Metliška
The sun-soaked hills around Bela Krajina provide the
perfect climate for producing award-winning wine, photo
by YMB
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Rafting on the Kolpa
Rafting or canoeing (or travelling in any other water-born
vessel for that matter) down the Kolpa river during the
summer is just about one of the most enjoyable ways to
spend a day anywhere in Slovenia. Whitewater rafting this
is not, so adrenaline junkies may wish to look elsewhere,
but for the rest of us a slow trip along the water allows
ample time for appreciating the surrounding environment
and stopping at various points to swim, visit attractions,
have a picnic or explore. The upper sections of the river
keep a slightly less meandering pace and the water is a
few degrees cooler than the 30°C or more it can reach
further downstream. There are over 50 dams along the
route that do provide a bit of excitement, but the key word
on a Kolpa rafting trip is relaxation. To arrange a trip you
can contact one of the agencies below directly, or call or
email one of the local tourist informations centres and they
can help with all the arrangements as well as providing
recommendations for what may best suit you.
Kolpa Adventures Srednji Radenci 2, Stari Trg
ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41 518 536/+386 (0)51
205 159, [email protected], www.kolpaadventures.com.
Kolpa Raft Laze Pr Predgradu 1a, Stari Trg ob
Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41 426 110/+386 (0)1 8943
754, [email protected], www.kolparaft.com.
Kolpa Rafting (Alen Klarič s.p.) Potok 4, Kostel,
tel. +386 (0)41 806 355, [email protected],
www.raftingkolpa.com.
Stari Pod Jankovič Gorenjci Pri Adlešičih 15,
Adlešiči, tel. +386 (0)7 30 70 315/+386 (0)41 880
330, [email protected], www.kolpas.si.
Črnina and a white called Belokranjec - both of which are
protected and certified by the Ministry of Agriculture under
the PTP label - the cooperative produces a wide variety of
more than a dozen regular wines, as well as a selection of
special vintages such as extra sweet ice and dry grape wines.
While the red Metliška Črnina is produced from a combination
of Blue Franconian (60%) and the autochthonous Zametna
Črnina (30%) grape varieties, the majority of wines here are
actually white. Tastings and tours of the facilities can be arranged in advance for groups of up to 55 people.
Vinska Klet Prus Krmačina 6, tel. +386 (0)41 690
112/+386 (0)7 30 59 098, [email protected], www.vinaprus.si. If you follow the road past Drašiči to the even smaller
village of Krmačina just before the Croatian border, you’ll find
one of the most decorated wine producers in all of Slovenia:
Vinska Klet Prus. Of the numerous awards that the vineyard
has won over the past decade and a half (including several
Decanters), the passionate and excitable owner Jožef Prus is
most proud of the all-around Best Slovene Winemaker award
he has taken home for the past three years (2009-2011) and
counting. Awarded at the prestigious Gornja Radgona Wine
Fair, the prize is given not for a single wine, but is based on the
aggregate scores received by a producer’s entire selection.
Although all of wine here is indeed of the highest quality,
thanks to the vineyards’ position at the top of some of Bela
Krajina’s highest, sunniest hills, the speciality of the winery is
undoubtedly sweet whites, namely Rumeni Muškat, as well as
even sweeter late harvest and ice wines, which are frequently
included by the State Protocol Services during formal events
at Brdo pri Kranju. The wine cellar and production facilities
were completely rebuilt in 2009, and can now accommodate
tastings of up to 60 people or more.
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Kolpa River
Semič
Semič is something like a little brother to Bela Krajina’s two
older, larger and much more well-known municipalities, Metlika and Črnomelj. However, the town does have a surprise
or two up its sleeve for visitors, including the fact that while
it has less than half the population of Metlika, it’s actually
some 30% larger in size. And although Semič is also the
only municipality included in the Kolpa river region that the
Kolpa river doesn’t flow through (at it’s nearest point it’s just
over 2km away), it is an inseparable part of the destination.
The western two-thirds of Semič’s area is comprised of the
sparsely inhabited forests of the Kočevje Rog mountains,
while much of the rest is made up of fertile hills and fields
that are ideal for vineyards and have been put to good use
for such purposes.
The Church of St Stephan, which was likely built in the 12th
century, is the dominant feature of the town’s appearance,
set on a small square of the same name and rising above
everything else. Meanwhile the newly built cultural centre
and library have become the main focal point of cultural life
for locals, and with its modern design the building definitely
stands out from its surroundings. Outside of the town itself,
the main sights include the powerful karst spring that is the
source of the Krupa river, the ruins of Smuk castle on a hill
overlooking the valley, the peak of Mirna Gora (the highest
mountain in the region) and of course the many vineyards
that can be found in all directions.
What to See in Semič
The Source of the Krupa River When it comes to springs,
you never know what you’re going to get. While a bubbling puddle
in the middle of a field or a trickle of water coming out of rock have
every right to call themselves springs, these lesser phenomena
don’t do much to impress visitors. On the other hand, the karst
spring a few kilometres south of Semič is a spring of the first
order. With a 30m high cliff of colourful tectonic layers serving as
a backdrop and reflecting in the water, it is one of the of the most
beautiful sights in the region, and if you’re here on a Saturday you
can expect to see newlyweds having their photo taken. Despite
its placid outward appearance, beneath the turquoise waters an
average of 1000 litres of water per second is gushing out from a
vast network of subterranean waterways, feeding the Krupa for its
short journey to the Lahinja river. The spring is also home to the
infamous creature known as the human fish (or more properly the
proteus anguinus) as well as a rare type of cave mussel, and the
area around the spring and the entire 2.5km length of the Krupa
river were designated a protected natural monument in 1997.
The famous birch and fern forests for which Bela Krajina
was named, photo by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB
EDEN Slovenia
Kolpa River
Semiška Ohcet
Kostelska Rakija
In the town of Semič the most festive day of the year is
not a religious holiday, Slovenia’s independence day or
New Year’s Eve - it’s a Saturday in July when multiple
young couples participate in a traditional wedding celebration. Semiška Ohcet, which means Semič wedding,
is also the name of a well-known folklore group that
is the main attraction at the event. Founded in 1945,
the group has frequently performed throughout Bela
Krajina, Slovenia, the former Yugoslavia and elsewhere
in Europe for over 60 years. Other folklore groups also
perform, and local cottage industries, handicrafts and
traditional cuisine are presented. Traditional weddings
had all but died out in Bela Krajina by the 1990s, so
the first Semiška Ohcet was organised in 1995 in
order to preserve and promote the region’s cultural
heritage.
Located on the steep hilly terrain between the Kočevje
highlands and Kolpa river, Kostel is covered in thick dark
forests with that are home to almost as many bears as humans. As mystical as it all appears, living in such a rugged
land is not easy, and the inhabitants here need something
a little stronger than beer or wine to take the edge off - or at
least this is what we assume, since one of the region’s main
agricultural products is Kostelska Rakija. This fruit-based
schnapps is made primarily from apples (jabolkovo) and
pears (hruškovo), but also from plums (slivovka) and mixed
fruit (sadjevec), and is an officially protected spirit and a
registered trademark of the Tourist and Sport Association
of Kostel. This means that if you see the label you are not
only assured that it’s of the highest quality, but was also
produced using traditional methods.
Quality is strictly controlled by a special commission of
professional rakija tasters - which is surely one of the
best jobs in Slovenia! - who assess the fiery spirit in
terms of taste, fragrance, colour and clarity. The samples that score less than 15 out of a possible 20 points
are deemed unworthy of the official label (although we
assume they don’t go to waste). At the tourist office
in Kostel and other info points around the region you
can find a free catalogue that describes the distillation
process in details and also presents more information
about some the indigenous fruit that is used. Of course
the best way to find out more about Kostelska Rakija is
to visit one of the local distilleries and try it for yourself!
The Orchard of Dr Derganc In the past nearly every
homestead in the region of Bela Krajina was surrounded by
orchards, which not only provided fresh fruit for the inhabitants, but also protected them from the scorching sun in the
summer and cold winds in the winter, and prevented the soil
on steeper terrain from eroding. While nowadays there are
not as many orchards as there used to be, in 1983 a local
doctor by the name of Viktor Derganc donated his carefully
tended land to the Paraplegic Association of Slovenia, so
that it could be used as a place of relaxation and well-being
for guests. In 2010, the property in Semič was opened as a
learning garden to further encourage an awareness of fruit
growing and the region’s agricultural traditions in general.
Visitors can see apple, pear, peach, apricot, cherry, prune and
walnut trees, as well as specimens hazel, elder, medlar and
quince. A bust of the good doctor is found near the information
board outside, while the Paraplegic Association has also set
up an exhibition of paintings and handicrafts inside.
Kočevje
The largest municipality in all of Slovenia by area, covering a total of 564 km2 with some 17,000 inhabitants,
Kočevje is one of the most preserved natural parts of
Slovenia and all of central Europe, with 90% of the landscape covered by forests. For those wishing to explore
this pristine natural environment, much of the area is
marked with various hiking trails and natural learning
paths, as well as cycling routes, which lead through
nature preserves, virgin forests, Karst caves, viewing
points and a hidden animal world - the latter most notably including the largest population of Slovenia’s famous
brown bear. But as the true jewel of the Kočevje region
is the Kolpa river at its southernmost end, twisting and
turning through the lush green forested hills.
The town of Kočevje, is the administrative, economic and
cultural centre of the municipality. Originally built up by
German speakers in the 14th century, this sleepy provincial capital has a unique history and makes a pleasant
base for exploring the surrounding area. Secessionist
architecture gives the town a slightly regal appearance,
with various old villas lining the main road, while the
most impressive building is the neo-Romanesque parish church of St Jernej dating from the turn of the 20th
century, whose twin bell towers also serve as good point
of reference. The town boasts several good restaurants
and a casino, while there is plenty to see and do nearby,
including a thriving lake, pond and restored well and of
course miles upon miles of forest.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
The source of the Krupa river in Semič, photo by Dunja
Wedam, Archive STB
What to See in Kočevje
Kočevje Lake One of the little talked about and perhaps
unexpected side benefits of industry, Kočevje lake was inadvertantly formed after the closure of a coal mine here in the
late 1970s. The stream water formerly used for washing the
coal flooded the mine site, thus creating a thriving ecosystem
and highly appreciated recreation site. Sixty-four species of
bird nest here (15 of which are on the red endangered list), on
migration paths spanning northern Europe to Africa, there are
15 species of dragonfly and the lake’s banks are bestowed
with lush flora. Summertime sees swimming, winter ice skating (providing there’s sufficient ice) and there’s even a 3km
educational trail with information boards.
Pond in Jelenja Vas Worth a look if you’re charmed by
quaint rural villages and/or you’re looking for some natural
swimming during the summer heat. In the old days village
women would do their washing at the banks of the lake, the
children would swim or ice-skate depending on the season.
There’s a well and pond, both restored in 2002, situated in a
a karst valley just off the road from Kočevje to Predgrad. After
the pond you enter the village of Jelenja vas, in the centre of
the valley and above the river Kolpa, along the Brezovica to
Stari Trg ob Kolpi road.
Tamburanje va Kostele
Taking its name from the tamburica, a long-necked lute
that is a traditional musical instrument in this part of
Slovenia and throughout the Balkans, the festival is much
more than a mere musical event, and offers visitors a
chance to experience a rich and colourful programme
encompassing cultural, ethnological and ecological
activities, as well as sports competitions. In addition
to a souvenir and local handicrafts market and various
performances that are entertaining for the whole family, the highlights for us include the traditional costume
parade and the big party (Kostevska Veselica) that brings
the event to a close. The Tamburanje va Kostele is held
in Kostel each summer around 15 August.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Regional Museum Kočevje Prešernova 11, tel. +386
(0)1 895 03 03/+386 (0)51 26 99 72, fax +386 (0)1
895 03 05, [email protected], www.pmk-kocevje.
si. Housed in the same building where partisans convened in
1943 for the first parliament of the Slovene nation, Kočevje’s
regional museum has presented the area’s heritage since
1960. There are two permanent exhibitions: the first is a
collection of Božidar Jakac drawings depicting the Kočevska
region and is considered important heritage of the German
population who previously lived here, while the second is
dedicated to Slovene nationhood and its conception, ‘from
idea to republic’. Visits to the museum can be pre-arranged
outside of official opening times, with German or English
speaking guides provided (when arranged at least a week in
advance). Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00-15:00.
Kostel
Though twice as populous as its neighbour Osilnica
upriver, with less than 700 inhabitants Kostel is still one of
the smallest municipalities in Slovenia. However, thanks to
its famous castle - perfectly placed atop a hill overlooking one of the most picturesque stretches of the Kolpa
river valley - the name Kostel is well-known throughout
the country. The municipality is more than just one building
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Kolpa River
though, and the main built-up area here (if you can call
it that) is the settlement of Fara and several other small
hamlets further down the road leading to the border crossing with Croatia. The incredibly rugged karst landscape is
perfect for hikers and cyclists looking for a bit of a challenge
and a lot of beautiful scenery. There are a few tourist farms
to stop at for a bite, and lots of natural attractions, such as
waterfalls and caves. If you stay here on a cold night, don’t
forget to fortify your own spirit with the locally produced
spirit called Kostelska Rakija, while in the summertime the
biggest day on the calendar is 15 August, when the traditional Tamburanje va Kostele ethnological festival is held.
The Legend of Peter Klepec
The story of Peter Klepec
is one of the most widely
known folktales in Slovenia. Likely originating
sometime in the 16th
or 17th century, it was
passed down orally from
generation to generation
until finally taking written
form many years later.
Peter Klepec was a kind,
hard-working sepherd
boy from a very poor family in the village of Osilnica, who
struggled to make ends meet on a farm where hardly any
crops would grow.
Peter was not the strongest boy around, and as adolescent males tend to do (apparently even 500 years ago)
Peter was the victim of some rather unpleasant bullying
at the hands of the other young shepherds - being forced
to do their work, serving as the butt of their jokes and
even taking a beating from time to time.
One hot summer day while Peter was off trying to find
water for his tormentors, his flock disappeared. While he
was searching for the wayward sheep he came across
a beautiful young girl sleeping in a meadow. Being the
kindly boy he was, Peter took the time from his desperate
search to arrange some branches to provide shade for
this lovely maiden during her afternoon siesta.
This humble act turned out to be a decisive one, because
when the girl awoke Peter found out that she was not a
girl after all, but one of the mysterious mountain fairies
who populate the forests here. To show her gratitude,
she told Peter that she would grant him one wish, to which
the boy (making the classic mistake of not wishing for
more wishes!) asked simply to be strong. Despite being
sceptical at first, Peter quickly discovered that he could
uproot giant trees and hoist enormous boulders over his
head. And the rest, as they say is history.
After locating his lost flock, Peter set about wrapping up
some other loose ends. First he subtly made it known
to the other shepherds that they’d be doing their own
work from then on. Next he removed all the rocks from
his mother’s garden, so plentiful crops could grow. And
finally, in some versions of the story at least, he defeated
all of the invading Turkish armies and saved the entire
region from Ottoman rule, which surely played no small
part in helping to cement his legacy as a folk hero in both
Slovenia and neighbouring Croatia.
In the past century or so the story has been depicted in
various different artistic mediums, including countless
books. The most famous version is likely France Bevk’s
work from 1958, which includes beautiful illustrations by
the noted Slovene painter Tone Kralj.
EDEN Slovenia
Kolpa River
What to See in Kostel
Osilnica
Kostel Castle Kostel’s mighty castle is inarguably one
With a population of just over two million, Slovenia has
managed to make local administration a true art form,
so far dividing itself into an astounding 211 separate
municipalities as of 2011. But even in a country so keen
on creating ever smaller administrative units, only one can
lay claim to the title of being the smallest - and with a total
population of only 332 inhabitants, Osilnica is that one (by
quite a large margin even). However, as the saying goes,
good things do indeed come in small packages.
Despite its size, Osilnica is notable for two primary
reasons: It is the land of Peter Klepec, one of Slovenia’s
most beloved folk heroes, and it is the place where the
Čabranka and Kupa rivers converge to form the Kolpa.
Just a couple hundred metres from the confluence is the
Kovač Hotel and Sport Centre, the modern family-run
establishment that is the primary tourist destination in the
area. While the unspoilt nature of the surrounding area
and timeless images of rural life are the main object of
photographers lenses, there are also no less than seven
aged churches and countless chapels in the municipality,
of the most magnificent and recognisable in all of Slovenia,
which is no small feat in a country that is not exactly lacking
in fortified residences. Not only is Kostel the second largest
castle complex in Slovenia (after Celje’s Stari Grad), but it’s
image also adorns the label of a popular Slovene brand
of bottled water that is produced nearby. Built in the 13th
century, the castle long-served as an important defensive
outpost against frequent Turkish incursions, and dutifully
withstood all but one of their attempts to capture it over a
period of centuries.
Nowadays the castle itself and its immediate grounds are
sadly closed to the public, with the blame for this falling
squarely on the shoulders of the French, who destroyed it
in 1809 as punishment for a local rebellion. After a wait of
nearly two centuries renovations works finally began in 1999,
but this major project is still ongoing and the castle’s interior
is currently closed for sightseeing. However, it’s well worth
the short drive from the main road to take a closer look and
experience the mightiness of the castle complex for yourself.
There’s a large parking area on the left just before you reach
the village Kostel, from where it’s a short walk to the best
vantage point on the path leading up to the castle gates. A
large info board has a detailed history of the castle, church
and village in English.
Svet Kolpe www.svet-kolpe.si. It is believed by some
that there is a strong bio-energy field with a spine of seven
chakras running across Europe, from roots in the Greek island
of Crete to the crown in Iceland. The large central Europe
chakra passes directly through the Kolpa region in Slovenia
and represents the solar plexus, which acts as a sort of inner
sun providing life forces to the rest of Europe.
In the area of the Kolpa, this perhaps difficult to imagine and
impossible to see concept has been put into concrete form
through the Svet Kolpe project, which has been organised by
the municipality of Kostel and others in the area. To make the
energy more palpable, a series of 40 white stone monoliths
with special symbols carved into them have been arranged
at various points throughout the Kolpa and Čabranka river
valleys. This practice is referred to as lithopuncture, as in a
manner similar to acupuncture it helps to open the energy
present in the land. Even those who are sceptical of such ‘new
age’ beliefs may want to take the time to stop and see if they
feel any different while near the stones - at worst they will get
to enjoy a beautiful view. English language information boards
and maps are posted at many of the sites, and brochures
can be found at many tourist offices.
Accommodation along the Kolpa River
Hotels
Hotel Bela Krajina Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 32,
Metlika, tel. +386 (0)7 305 81 23/+386 (0)40 327
49, fax +386 (0)7 363 52 81, gostinstvo-turizem@
gtm-metlika.si, www.hotel-belakrajina.si. Q 26 rooms.
Hotel Kovač Sela 5, Osilnica, tel. +386 (0)1 8941
508/+386 (0)41 652 048, [email protected],
www.kovac-kolpa.com.
Hotel Lahinja Črnomelj Kolodvorska 60, tel. +386 (0)7
307 03 30/+386 (0)51 809 426, hotel.lahinja@siol.
net, www.sloveniaholidays.com/hotel-lahinja-crnomelj.
Hotel Pri Belokranjcu Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti
77, Metlika, tel. +386 (0)7 30 28 444/+386 (0)41
921 694, [email protected], www.pribelokranjcu-vp.si. Q 11 rooms.
Hotel Smuk Semič Štefanov Trg 1, Semič, tel.
+386 (0)7 30 677 14, hotel.smuk.semic@gmail.
com, www.sloveniaholidays.com/hotel-smuk-semic.
Q 8 rooms.
Apartments
Apartmaji Bilpa Spodnja Bilpa 6, Stari Trg ob Kolpi,
tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 77, [email protected],
www.apartmaji-bilpa.si. Q 5 apartments.
Apartmaji Malerič Podlog 3c, Dragatuš, tel. +386
(0)7 30 57 120/+386 (0)40 300 676, maleric@
turizemmaleric.si, w w w.turizemmaleric.si. Q 6
apartments.
Apartmaji Šuster Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41
359 073/+386 (0)7 305 51 53, www.apartmajisuster.si. Q 6 apartments.
Camping
Kostel’s magnificent castle is the second largest castle
complex in all of Slovenia, photo by Dunja Wedam, Archive
STB
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including the 17th century Church St Giles in Ribjek, which
is the oldest preserved church in the entire region of the
Kočevje forest.
Squeezed into an area of some 36km2 between the rocky
Borovška Gora mountain range on one side and the Kolpa
river (as well as the Schengen border with Croatia) on the
other, the municipality includes various tiny settlements
along the river leading to Osilnica town from the south, as
well as several more hamlets and farming estates in the
hills to the north, making it quite literally one of the most
isolated corners of Slovenia.
Until recently the easiest way to get here was to first past
through Kostel and then follow the river for some 30km
before the somewhat frightening monument of Peter
Klepec on the left let’s you know that you’ve finally arrived.
However, in May 2012 a new road opened that goes
directly over the mountains to Kočevje Reka, Ribnica and
on to Ljubljana, saving drivers at least 30 minutes on the
trip. With some two dozen switchbacks and a change of
over 700m in elevation in just a few kilometres, the road
provides spectacular sweeping views of the valley below
and several prime locations for impromptu picnics.
Kamp Muhvič Dol 9, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1
894 36 75, [email protected].
Kamp Podzemelj Podzemelj, tel. +386 (0)7 30 69
572, [email protected], www.kamppodzemelj.si.
RC Kamp Primostek Primostek 50, Gradac, tel.
+386 (0)7 305 85 28/+386 (0) 31 652 851, info@
primostek.si, www.kampprimostek.si.
Kamp Žaga Gorenja Žaga 1a, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)1
89 42 291.
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Tourist Farms & Guesthouses
Domačija Lobič Grgelj 5, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 770
959/+306 (0)41 628 043, darinka.mravljak@siol.
net.
Domačija Raztresen Rim 16, Adlešiči, tel. +386
(0)7 30 70 516/+386 (0)41 736 587, [email protected],
www.rim.si.
Gostilna Pezdirc Metliška 11, Semič, tel. +386 (0)7
356 81 21, [email protected], www.gostilnapezdirc.
si.
Gostišče Kapušin Krasinec 55, Gradac, tel. +386
(0)7 369 91 50, [email protected], www.
gostilna-kapusin.si.
Gostišče Tri Zvezde Pri Unionu 32, Kočevje, tel.
+386 (0)1 895 30 36, fax +386 (0)1 893 16 68, info@
trizvezde.si, www.trizvezde.si.
Gostišče Veronika Ljubljanska 35, Kočevje, tel.
+386 (0)1 89 53 017.
Gostišče Veselič Podzemelj 17, Gradac, tel. +386
(0)7 363 72 33/+386 (0)31 391 517, gostisce.
[email protected].
Gostišče Župančič Hram Dragatuš 22, Dragatuš,
tel. +386 (0)7 305 73 47.
Kmetija Padovac Selo 3, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31
338 645, [email protected], www.kmetijapadovac.si.
Kmetija Pri Papeževih Banja Loka 19, Kostel, tel.
+386 (0)41 792 816.
Lukčeva Domačija Vrh 1, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 285
723, [email protected], www.lukceva-domacija.
si.
Kmetija z Nastavitvijo ob Izviru Krupa Krupa
9, Semič, tel. +386 (0)7 306 80 12, [email protected], www.turisticna-kmetija-cerjanec.
si.
Penzion Tušek Rudnik 18, Kočevje, tel. +386 (0)1
895 22 30/+386 (0)40 396 400.
Turistična kmetija Majerle Dol 7, Stari Trg ob Kolpi,
tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 77, [email protected],
www.turizem-majerle.net.
Turistična Kmetija Žagar Damelj 11, Vinica, tel.
+386 (0)7 306 44 41, [email protected], www.tkzagar.si.
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Solčavsko Region
Solčavsko Region
Where to Sleep & Eat
Tourist Information
Logarska Dolina
Tourist Information Centre Solčava 29, tel.
+386 (0)3 839 07 10, [email protected], www.
solcavsko.info. Located in the basement of the Rinka
Centre, Solčasko’s regional tourist information centre
has pretty much every piece of information you could
hope to find about Where to Sleep and eat, and what to
see and do in the region - with detailed material in English,
Slovene and German. Just let the staff know what you’re
interested in, and they will gladly help you find what you
need, including making arrangements and bookings with
local tourist farms, guesthouses, travel agencies and
tour guides for you.
The premises also contain a multipurpose room (to
the left of the huge wall map of the region), where you
can view several films detailing different aspects of
Solčavsko’s culture and history, and view temporary art
exhibitions that change every month or two. However,
the most interesting attraction here is the permanent
exhibition, which offers an eye-opening and comprehensive trip through the region from pre-history to the
present day. Arranged in a large semi-circle, the very
well-presented pathway is packed with from floor to
ceiling with photographs, ethnological items and an
extensive presentation of the indigenous flora and fauna
from the surrounding area. Most exhibits are presented
with English translations, but it well-worth having a guide
come with you to give further context and more in-depth
information about what you’re looking at.
Dom Planincev Logarska Dolina 15a, tel. +386 (0)3
584 70 06/+386 (0)70 847 639, domplanincev@
gmail.com, www.domplanincev.si. This venerable alpine mountain hut offers basic accommodation for hikers,
budget travellers and others who don’t mind roughing it a
bit. There’s a total of 32 beds, half of which are in two large
dorms on the second floor, while the rest are in smaller
rooms on the first floor. All rooms have washbasins with
hot and cold water, and there are shared showers and
toilettes. There is also a restaurant and bar on the ground
floor where hikers can fill up on tasty staples like Logar
goulash, mushroom soup, buckwheat and stuffed cheese
dumplings after a long day on the mountain. Q Open from
20 April to 31 October, and by prior arrangement for groups in
the winter. 7 rooms (beds €15/person, €19 with breakfast).
6BKW
Hotel Plesnik Logarska Dolina 10, tel. +386 (0)3 839
Logarska Dolina (or the Logar Valley) is one the most beautiful, and remote, places in all of Slovenia, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik
While the name Solčava (or Solčavsko or even Logarska
Dolina) is not widely known outside of Slovenia, the region
is truly one of the most incredible places in the country,
which of course is the reason why it was selected as an
EDEN destination in 2009. In fact, if we weren’t contractually prohibited from playing favourites, it would be tempting
for us to declare the Solčavsko region first among
equals when it comes to tourist destinations in Slovenia.
Geographically isolated by the Kamnik-Savinjska Alps in
the far north of the country, the area only got its first road
to Ljubno and the rest of the Savinja Valley in 1894. This
isolation has led Solčavsko to develop at its own pace,
maintain its own distinct cultural identity and extensively
preserve and protect its natural heritage. Fortunately for
those wishing to visit, nowadays it is a relatively short
drive (ie less than 1.5hrs) from Ljubljana, Maribor and Celje
- the three largest cities in Slovenia.
Comprised of three roughly parallel valleys - Robanov Kot,
Logarska Dolina and Matkov Kot - which are connect by a
small river valley to the north that eventually becomes the
Savinja river, the main town of Solčava gives the region its
name. Some 517 or so inhabitants are dispersed over and
area of 103km2, and everyone literally knows everyone
here, but don’t worry about being an outsider, the close
sense of community is one of the things that makes the
place so friendly and welcoming for tourists. It’s virtually
impossible to get lost on even the smallest unsealed
mountain road, because the first person you meet will
know exactly where you’re going (and will quite possibly be
a relative of the owner!).
Of the three valleys, the wide picture-perfect Logarska
Dolina is the most known (so much so that even Slovenes
colloquially refer to the whole region by that name), while
forest-covered Matkov Kot is the narrowest and least
developed, and Robanov Kot is something like the balanced
middle child of the family. To the north separating Slovenia
from Austria is Mount Olševa, along which runs the so-
EDEN Slovenia
called Panoramic Road, where the best views in the entire
region are found. However, in Solčavsko there are amazing
sights around every corner, from breathtakingly sublime
landscapes to countless simple wonders that never cease
to amaze visitors such as ourselves: galloping alpine
horses, friendly pot-bellied pigs, tiny weather-worn chapels,
centuries-old farmhouses, feisty roosters, fields exploding
with flowers of every colour and so on seemingly infinitely!
Arriving
Coming to the Solčavsko region with your own car is really
the best option. While it is possible to arrive by way of
public transport - this is limited to three buses per weekday (there are none at the weekends) from Celje, which
take nearly two hours and cost €6.90 each way - if you’re
keen on exploring all that the area has to offer, having your
own vehicle is a must as the distances between the three
valleys are quite far (nearly 10km from Robanov Kot to
Matkov Kot) and the must-see Panoramic Road is almost
20km from start to finish.
The drive from Ljubljana takes roughly 1.5 hours regardless of whether you take the most direct route (which
means following the country roads through Kamnik,
around Velika Planina and then up over the mountains
through the tiny settlement of Podvolovljek before
descending to Luče just east of Solčava) or take the motorway to the Šentrupert exit and then pass by Mozirje, go
through Ljubno and Luče. The first option is our preferred
choice as the scenery is amazing the entire drive, although
large stretches of the road are not for the faint of heart
and it’s probably best avoided altogether during icy winters
or heavy rain.
All accommodation provide ample parking space, and
parking in Solčava is free of charge, however, there is a
one time fee of €7 for bringing a car into the Logar Valley
(€5 for motorcycles, €8 for vans and €25 for buses).
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
23 00, fax +386 (0)3 839 23 12, [email protected], www.
plesnik.si. The crème de la crème of accommodation in
Solčavsko, the four-star Plesnik seems almost out of place
in the rustic natural setting, as it offers luxurious amenities,
exquisite dining and professional service that is rarely found
in the countryside. Highlights for us include the breathtaking
views from the south-facing balconies, the splendid hotel terrace, and of course the heated ground-level pool and sauna
facilities in the basement with a glass wall through which you
can view the valley while you swim. These are free to use
for guests, and various massages and other treatments are
available for an extra charge. The hotel is a popular destination for business retreats and meetings, and multi-day packages for couples and families are also on offer. Additional
accommodation is offered in the adjacent Villa Palenk, which
has rooms of similar standards (and all important access
to the pool) for slightly lower prices. Q 30 rooms (singles
€65-89, doubles €130), in Villa Palenk 10 rooms (singles
€49-72, doubles €98). PTHA6ILBKDCW
Kmečka Hiša Ojstrica Logarska Dolina 13a, tel.
+386 (0)3 838 90 51/+386 (0)31 56 52 29, plesnik.
[email protected], www.logarska-ojstrica.si. Located at
the busiest intersection in Logarska Dolina, with one house
on either side of the street and another just up the hill,
Ojstrica is the centre of the action with a restaurant open
to non-guests and a bar at which you’re almost guaranteed
to find a local or two chatting in front of beer. The building
is newly constructed with all the modern amenities, but
was modelled on the traditional alpine farmhouse style.
One interesting detail is the oriental-themed furnishings
present throughout - these are not just kitsch, the family
that runs the place spent some time living in China before
returning to Solčavsko to open the guesthouse. Q 7 room
and 2 apartments (singles €36, doubles €58, apartments
€72). TA6LBKW
Planšarija Logarski Kot Logarska Dolina 9, tel. +386
(0)5 995 86 92/+386 (0)41 210 017, logarski.kot@
gmail.com, www.logarski-kot.si. Formerly an alpine
dairy cottage, this rustic guesthouse is tucked away in
a small clearing surrounded by thick forests at the upper
end of Logar Valley. Built in the 1930s, the entirely wooden
structure is one of the best preserved of its kind in the area,
giving it a romantic charm that more modernly equipped
accommodations simply can’t match, and the traditional
Solčavsko cuisine prepared by the lady of the house is also
regarded as some of the best around. The small dining and
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Logarska Dolina Tourist Information Point
Logarska Dolina 9, tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 04, info@
logarska.si, www.logarska-dolina.si. This small
wooden hut opposite Hotel Plesnik is open during the
summer and has much the same info, brochures and
helpful advice as the main tourist information centre
in Solčava - although it’s primary focus is of course
Logarska Dolina.
common area on the ground floor is about as cosy as they
come when the fireplace is crackling on cold evenings - and
we’ve seen this place covered in snow as late as May before,
so cold evenings are a conveniently common occurrence
here. Q 8 rooms with 23 beds (€20-22/person). 6IL
Help feed the horses at Lenar Tourist Farm, photo by
Avgust Lenar
2012/13
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Solčavsko Region
Other Accommodation
Apartmaji Mala Hiša Robanov Kot, tel. +386 (0)3
584 61 80, [email protected], www.malahisa.
com. Q 2 apartments (€50-75).
Apartma Prepadnik Robanov Kot, tel. +386
(0)31 369 529/+386 (0)31 443 282. Q 1 Apartment (€50-70).
Apartma Tisa Solčava, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60
64/+386 (0)41 889 021, solcava.tisa@gmail.
com. Q 1 apartment (€50).
Penzion Na Razpotju Logarska Dolina 14, tel.
+386 (0)3 839 16 50, [email protected], www.
logarska-narazpotju.si. Q 10 rooms (singles €35,
doubles €70).
Planinski Dom Majerhold Logarska Dolina,
tel. +386 (0)3 584 71 24/+386 (0)41 336 864,
[email protected], www.majerhold.si. Q
7 rooms and 2 apartments (rooms €25/person,
apartments €50).
Prenočišča Valentina Solčava, tel. +386 (0)3 584
60 52/+386 (0)31 870 893, valentinaspruk67@
gmail.com, www.valentina-solcavsko.si. Q 4 rooms
(singles €24, doubles, triples and quads €20/person).
Sobe Elizabeta Slapnik Solčava, tel. +386
(0)51 256 804/+386 (0)41 690 011, [email protected], www.turist-slapnik.eu. Q 8
beds (€20/person).
Sobe Štiftar Solčava, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60
93/+386 (0)41 522 228, [email protected].
Q 8 beds (€18/person).
Turistična Kmetija Ambrož-Gregorc Solčava
53, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 97/+386 (0)41 705
949, [email protected], www.ambroz-gregorc.
com. Q 9 rooms (singles €24, doubles, triples &
quads €20/person). Breakfast €5.
Turistična Kmetija Bevšek-Ošep Robanov Kot
29, tel. +386 (0)3 838 60 36, [email protected],
www.bevsek-osep.si. Q 6 rooms (€24/person).
Turistična Kmetija Juvanija Logarska Dolina 8,
tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 80, [email protected], www.
juvanija.com. Q 4 rooms (singles €24, doubles €48).
Turistična Kmetija Ložekar Logarska Dolina 27,
tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 60, [email protected]. Q 23
beds. Open only during winter.
Turistična Kmetija Majdač Podolševa, tel.
+386 (0)3 839 49 40/+386 (0)31 715 293, anica.
[email protected]. Q 7 rooms and 1 apartment
(€26-28/person, apartment €50-60).
Turistična Kmetija Perk Logarska Dolina 23,
tel. +386 (0)3 5 847 120/+386 (0)41 282 485,
[email protected], www.perk.si. Q 12 beds
(€24/person).
Turistična Kmetija Pečovnik-Ošep Robanov
Kot 33, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 56. Q 6 rooms
and 4 apartments (singles €22-28, doubles €44-56,
apartments €44-108).
Turistična Kmetija Plesnik Logarska Dolina 13,
tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 09/+386 (0)41 329 383,
[email protected], www.logarska-tkplesnik.si.
Q 5 rooms (singles €25, doubles €50).
Turistična Kmetija Rogar Podolševa 24, tel.
+386 (0)3 839 50 30/+386 (0)31 204 703, www.
nad1000m.si. Q 5 rooms (singles €24-25, doubles
€48-50).
Turistična Kmetija Strevc-Selišnik Podolševa,
tel. +386 (0)3 838 60 20/+386 (0)40 477 909,
[email protected]. Q 4 apartments (€59).
EDEN Slovenia
Solčavsko Region
Turistična Kmetija Lenar Logarska Dolina 11, tel.
Robanov Kot may be just the thing you’re looking for. Well-known
for its culinary excellence, the farm has a tradition dating back over
50 years and is a popular destination for locals, weekend hikers
and foreign tourists alike. Dining on the back terrace surrounded
by rolling green pastures, encroaching dark forests and soaring
mountains is one of the most pleasant experiences to be had in
Solčavsko (there’s even an old mill house), but be aware that the
multi-course set lunches are virtually impossible to finish. With
a reputation like this, it’s no surprise that the recently added
accommodations are every bit as splendid - the large rooms are
furnished in a traditional alpine style, and there’s even a small
jacuzzi and sauna at guests’ disposal. Q 10 rooms (singles €2935, larger rooms €26-29/person). TILKDW
+386 (0)3 838 90 06/+386 (0)41 851 829, tk.lenar@
siol.net, www.lenar.si. A favourite amongst foreign tourists and resident expats (including ourselves), this place is
almost too charming for words. Perfectly placed at the edge
of the meadows in the middle of the valley, it has sweeping
views in all directions, including of the orchard in front of the
house where guests can enjoy there ecological homemade
breakfasts and cavort with the two beautiful alpine horses
that are often roaming about. Accommodation is in either
the lower house, which has large newly renovated rooms
and apartments, or the upper house, which is slightly more
basic, but just as comfortable and offers the best views
from its south-facing terraces. For those seeking the more
‚authentic’ farm experience, mats are also available in a
renovated hay barn during the warmer months. Easily one of
the best values in the valley. Q 6 rooms and 3 apartments
(singles €27-29, doubles €54-58, apartments €60-110, hay
barn €12 per person). T6ILBXW
Matkov Kot
Turistična Kmetija Gradišnik Logarska Dolina 18,
tel. +386 (0)41 526 699/+386 (0)41 704 599, info@
gradisnik.si, www.gradisnik.si. Only a couple kilometres
from Logarska Dolina, upon rounding the last corner before
reaching the still wild and largely undeveloped Matkov Kot,
you’ll see signs directing you to a small meadow at the bottom of the valley, which has been the ancestral home of the
Gradišnik family for generations. Rebuilt and expanded by the
renowned family patriarch Matija Gradišnik in the middle of the
19th century, the farmstead has been perfectly preserved
to this day. The extra effort needed to reach Solčavsko’s
most distant valley is well worth it, as you’re guaranteed a
warm welcome and a relaxing stay. The farm’s speciality (in
addition to the usual friendly service, homemade cuisine and
cosy accommodation) is archery. Those interested in this
most fascinating sport, can borrow a bow and arrows and
get basic training. Once you’ve got the hang of the basics,
you can try out the 3-D archery track or hunting simulation
that’s been set up in the nearby forest. Q 2 rooms and 2
apartments (singles €25, doubles €50, apartments €60).
Breakfast €5. Archery with instruction €10/person, hunting
simulation €13-15/person. T6LW
Turistična Kmetija Matk Logarska Dolina 21, tel.
+386 (0)3 584 71 16/+386 (0)41 556 752, klemen@
matk.si, www.matk.si. Situated high above the valley
that shares its name, the Matk family farm extends from an
altitude of 900m near the bottom of the valley all the way up
to more than 2200m at the summit of Mrzla Gora (or Cold
Mountain). The rooms here are of a typical modern alpine
style, and there’s a large play room in the attic to keep the
kids busy. Most guests come here to get away from it all, and
are usually keen on cycling or hiking on the mountain roads
and trails that crisscross the large ecological farm, which includes four different types of autochthonous Slovenian animal
breeds (the Cika cow, Jezersko-Solčavsko sheep, Carniolan
bee and Styrian hen). Guests are also more than welcome
to join the family in their daily chores around the farm, as in
these parts in widely believed that a little hard work and dirty
hands will cure most ailments of the modern man. Everyone
can find peace in the silence of the forests and mountains. Q 7 rooms (singles €38, doubles €56, triples €84).
TLNB
www.inyourpocket.com
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Culinary specialities of Solčavsko
The award-winning views of Klemenšek Farm on the
Panoramic Road, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik
Panoramic Road
Ekološka Turistična Kmetija Žibovt Logarska Dolina
24, tel. +386 (0)3 584 71 18, [email protected],
www.kmetija-zibovt.si. In a place spoiled with breathtaking
views like Solčavsko it’s difficult to say that one place offers
the single best vantage point, but if we were forced to do so,
Žibovt would get our vote (no pun intended). Set at the edge
of a grassy field with panoramic views of the entire KamnikSavinja Alps spilling out in front of you, its resemblance to
the most famous image from the Sound of Music is hard
to ignore. An ecologically certified farm with a selection of
homemade treats such as dried fruits, mountain honey, cured
meats, hearty bread, sour yogurt and all kinds of cheeses our personal favourite is the wild garlic variety - gourmands
will definitely want to make a stop here. However, perhaps
the most unique aspect of the farm is the game room in the
basement. Like none other we’ve ever seen, it’s packed with
large-scale wooden games handmade by the family’s youngest
son, including chess, bowling and a labyrinth so difficult you
could stay here a week and not master it. Q 6 rooms (singles
€26-35, doubles €52-70). TLNBKW
Kmetija Klemenšek Logarska dolina 29, tel. +386 (0)3
838 90 24/+386 (0)41 593 715, info@na-klemencem.
si, www.na-klemencem.si. Thanks to its perch at the crest
of small grassy clearing of a forested hill with a panoramic
backdrop of the mighty Kamink-Savinja Alps, the the nearly
600 year old Klemenšek farm is almost as literally pictureperfect as they come - gracing the cover of countless Slovene
and international tourism magazines. While they don’t offer
accommodation, busloads of tourists turn up here to sample
the award-winning cuisine, visit the huge ethnological museum
in the old barn or simply enjoy the views. The premises can
also be rented for celebrations, team-building outings and
other events, and the farm had the distinction of hosting the
awards ceremony for the European Destination of Excellence
in 2009. TLBK
As with all of Slovenia’s surprisingly diverse regions,
sampling the local cuisine is one of the highlights of any
trip to Solčavsko. The central theme tying together the
culinary specialities here is the fresh locally grown (or
raised) ingredients that are used to produce them - most,
if not all, of the farms are organic and/or ecological and
run for generations by the same families.
The dish most often cited as a regional delicacy is
sirnek, which is alternatively translated as ‘aged Solčava
cheese’ or the somewhat less-appetising ‘ripened cottage cheese’. The pungent taste may be a bit on the
strong side for most people (ourselves included), but
for cheese lovers it’s a must-try. Other, more palatable,
varieties of homemade cheese are also plentiful and
commonly flavoured with some kind of herbs or spices.
The second-most typical food is zgornjesavinski želodec,
or Upper-Savinja ‘stomach’, a succulent salami that is not
only a geographically protected product, but is also featured on an official Slovenian postage stamp. Produced
from the highest quality local pigs, its taste is further
enriched by being cured in the pristine alpine climate.
A third speciality that often makes its way onto menus is
žlinkrofi. The close cousin of Idrjia’s more famous žlikrofi,
Solčavsko’s version of the boiled dumpling tends to be
slightly larger, is almost always filled with meat (or dried
pears for dessert) and serves as a side dish rather than
a main course.
Other staples of the regional diet include lamb and
deer meat, countless homemade breads, honey from
alpine bees, and various compotes, with pears being
the most commonly used fruit. The best place to purchase many of these treats is from the local farmers
of course, but the gift shop at the Rinka Centre has
a fine selection of certified local products to take
home with you as well.
Robanov Kot
Turistična Kmetija Govc-Vršnik Robanov Kot 34, tel.
+386 (0)3 839 50 16, fax +386 (0)3 839 50 17, govc.
[email protected], www.govc-vrsnik.com. If the more famous
Logarska Dolina is too hectic for you (relatively speaking of
course), then a stay in the equally beautiful but less developed
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
photo by Tomo Jeseničnik
2012/13
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Solčavsko Region
Potočka Zijalka Cave
Solčavsko Region
Solčava
Ekološka Turistična Kmetija Ramšak Podolševa 13,
tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 50, [email protected], www.
tk-ramsak.com. Known throughout the region for its highquality organic products, the farm has been officially certified
as ecological since 1999. For overnight guests there are two
double rooms in the main house and a separate apartment
cottage with two bedrooms that can sleep up to five people,
and lots of things for the kids to make use of, including a playground and sports equipment (table tennis, badminton, etc).
During the summer, guests can also make use of a covered
area with a large stone fireplace for their own picnics or BBQs.
Alternatively, home-cooked local cuisine is never in short supply,
and vegetarians will be glad to here that a number of non-meat
dishes are among the specialities of the kitchen. Q 2 rooms
and 1 apartments (singles €30, doubles €50, apartment €65).
T6ILW
Gostišče Firšt Logarska Dolina 1a, tel. +386 (0)3 839
The entrance to Potočka Zijalka Cave on Mount Olševa,
photo by Marko Slapnik
Resembling a gaping mouth or mysterious dark eye at
the base of the south-facing rocky cliffs of Mount Olševa,
the Potočka Zijalka Cave is arguably the most important
archeological site in all of Slovenia.
Although it had long been known to locals thanks to its
auspicious appearance, the 115m long cave was only
first excavated in 1928 by Dr Srečko Brodar. Over a
seven-year period Dr Brodar and his team discovered
over 300 stone objects (80 of which were tools), 123
bone points and a mind-boggling amount of animal
remains, including an estimated 1000 cave bears, as
well as 39 other species of wolves, foxes, lynxes, deer,
chamois, marmots and other small mammals.
The artefacts date from the Upper Palaeolithic period
between 40,000-30,000 years ago, and judging from
what was found it was first hypothesised that the cave
served as a hunting outpost - and quite an advanced
one by Cro-Magnon standards, given the presence of
what are thought to be some of the earliest known arrowheads. However, a more recent theory posits that
the site was actually a place where early animistic rituals
were carried out. This is based largely on two of the most
intriguing items that were discovered: a rudimentary
flute that is considered to be one of the oldest musical
instruments ever discovered (it’s made from the lower
jaw of a cave bear, with three holes bored into it) and a
rare bone needle, which was threaded through the hollow
of the bone rather than an eye as modern needles are.
The most extensive public display of findings from the
cave can be found at the regional museum in Celje,
although many of them were unfortunately destroyed
(along with much of the rest of the museum’s collection)
during allied bombardment in the waning months of WWII.
The Firšt Museum in Solčava also has a fine exhibition
detailing the history of the cave and what was found
during the excavations.
The cave itself is open for those interested in making
the steep hike up the mountain from the settlement of
Podolševa at the eastern end of the Panoramic Road although it’s not strictly required, hiring a qualified and
knowledgable guide through the tourist office in Solčava
is definitely recommended.
EDEN Slovenia
46 78, [email protected], www.first-logarska.si. Just
west of Solčava proper, Firšt is something of a one-stop-shop
for tourists, with an in-house museum, organised hiking trail,
accommodation and the town’s most popular restaurant. The
latter specialises in fresh river trout, but also has an interesting selection of game dishes (we can say without reservation
that they serve the best chamois goulash we’ve ever had!)
and local cuisine. The six comfortable rooms are completely
furnished in light wood décor, and guests can use the Finnish
sauna, rent bikes and visit the nearby nature trail to Fidov Gaj.
Q 6 rooms (singles €30-38, doubles €44-60). Lowest prices
are for stays of 3 days or more. PJLBKDW
Pod Macesnovo Streho Robanov Kot 5, tel. +386 (0)3
838 60 00/+386 (0)41 287 742, fax +386 (0)3 838
60 01, [email protected], www.apartmalogarska.si. Harmoniously combining the traditional with
the modern, no expense was spared in the environmentallyfriendly design and construction of this alpine retreat. The
main focus here is on the ‘mini wellness’ centre, which is
actually quite large by private accommodation standards.
Built to resemble a cave, complete with artificial rock walls,
ceilings and nooks, it boasts various saunas and treatments,
even including something called a bio-spectrum chamber.
However, for our money the apartments here are the real
draw: bright, spacious (40-57m2) and filled with custommade furniture, they’re named after the mountain they have
direct views towards. One of the apartments (Savinja) is also
fully wheelchair accessible, with wide doors, an extra large
bathroom and no obstructions. Q 5 apartments (€21-23/
person depending on availability, €66-116/apartment). Extra
cleaning charges may apply. Guests receive a 15% discount
on the wellness facilities. PTAULDW
What to See
Logarska Dolina
While many people outside of Slovenia may be unfamiliar
with the name Logarska Dolina, or Logar Valley, there’s a
good chance that they’ve seen photos of it at some point:
wide green meadows broken by a single winding road and
several perfectly placed linden trees, thick alpine forests
spilling down from the sloping mountains on either side,
and the craggy Kamnik-Savinja Alps rising like a mirage in
the background, often with a light dusting of snow. Based
solely on aesthetics, Logarska Dolina would find itself
near the top of any credible list of must-see natural sights
in Europe, however, the valley is more than just a pretty
face. Jointly managed since 1992 by both a locally owned
tourism development company and a separate dedicated
tourist association, as well as the official municipal
tourism office, the entire valley is a protected natural
landscape park, meaning that its preservation is painstakingly maintained, while at the same time its varied and
diverse tourism offering is well-organised for guests. With
new development strictly prohibited, virtually every farm in
the valley now offers some form of accommodation and/
or catering services.
Chapel of Christ the King (Kapela Kristusa Kralja).
This large chapel is perhaps most notable for its location in
the lush green meadows surrounded by a wall of trees at
the entrance to Logarska Dolina than for any of its physical
characteristics, but as they say in real estate the three things
that matter most are location, location, location. Built at the
behest of local farmers to honour the memory of the son of
the good doctor Šuman, it was originally intended to serve
as a small church, where mass could be held for residents
of the valley, and the commission for the design was given
to renowned Slovene architect Jože Plečnik. However, these
plans were never realised, and it was built in a similar style by
the architect Martin Golob, which has led to some confusion
amongst visitors who often mistake it for one of Plečnik’s
own. For visits to the interior, prior arrangements need to be
made with the management of the parish church in Solčava.
Črna Spring Shortly after crashing nearly 100m to earth,
Enjoy the cool spray at the base of the towering Rinka
Waterfall, photo by YMB
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
the water from the majestic Rinka Waterfall disappears deep
underground, emerging several kilometres later towards the
entrance of Logarska Dolina. Not far from the Juvanija Tourist Farm along the fringes of the large meadows at the very
bottom of the valley, the subterranean stream encounters
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
The Church of Our Lady of the Snows watches over Solčava
village, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik
impenetrable layers of rock, which forces it through the
surface. Flowing through dark sedimentary clays gives the
chilly water a blackish appearance, and the name Izvir Črne
in Slovene (or Black Spring). The spring has been proclaimed
a natural heritage site, and a small wooden viewing platform
gives visitors a better angle from which to gaze into the dark
waters. Found at the beginning of the nature trail running
through the valley, the spring is only a couple minutes walk
from the road.
Fairytale Forest Logarska Dolina 14, tel. +386 (0)3
839 16 50/+386 (0)31 249 441, [email protected],
www.logarska-narazpotju.si. If you’re travelling with your
family and the kids have had all the walking, hiking and/or
cycling they can take, a trip to the Fairytale Forest may be in
order. Located on the property of Penzion na Razpotju just
about in the middle of Logarska Dolina, the themed forest trail
has over 35 different stations covering an area of over 20,000
square metres. The fairy tales depicted come from both wellknown international stories as well as Slovenian folk tales,
all of which include a short informative card about the story
and authors, and most are made of natural locally-sourced
materials. The pathway is designed for unaccompanied visits, but guides can be arranged with advance notice, which
is especially useful option for non-Slovene speakers, and
admission to the forest also includes a chance for the kids
to pet, play with and otherwise annoy the farm animals kept
in the meadow out front. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
€2.50. Discounts for groups larger than 30.
Logar Farm One of the only farms in the valley that is not
open to tourists, the Logar farmstead is nonetheless an
interesting attraction - even if only viewed from the road.
First, and most obviously, Logar is the family after which
the entire valley was originally named. And second, one the
main activities on this large working farm is tending a herd
of Scottish highland cattle, a shaggy long-haired and horned
breed of bovine that looks entirely too exotic to still exist in
Europe. Be prepared to pull off the road shortly after entering
the valley to let the kids have a look and snap a few photos
of the strange-looking beasts.
Logarska Dolina Walking Trail By far the most popular
walk or hike in all of Solčavsko is the 7km path that runs the
length of Logarska Dolina, from the wide open meadows of
the lower valley to the crashing waters of 100m high Rinka
Waterfall at the valley’s opposite end. The walk will take a
minimum of two to three hours for a return trip, but is sub2012/13
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Solčavsko Region
Solčavsko Region
Annual Events
Mountain Wood Festival
Held each year at the end of May, the festival includes
presentations of mountain forests, special trees and
properties of mountain timber, demonstrations, workshops and sale of mountain wood products, as well as
the promotion of special culinary dishes connected to
the forests. Organised hikes and other activities in the
forest are also arranged.
A perfect place for a picnic!, photo by YMB
Panoramic Road
The Rinka Centre in Solčava village combines traditional materials with modern design, photo by Marko Slapnik
stantially longer if you stop to take in the sights along the
way. Of course the trail never strays far from the road (this
is a valley after all), so the route can be as long or short as
you like. The trail officially begins on the right hand side of
the road opposite the Juvanija tourist farm, but most people
park near the gatehouse and walk from there.
The first sight you come to is Črna Spring, and only a
short distance further is a typical lumberjack’s hut, which
shows how the men from this age-old profession lived
and worked in the vast forests of Solčavsko. From here
the trail crosses the road several times before passing
by Dom Planincev (a great place for a basic but tasty and
filling lunch) and arriving at still-functional charcoal pile. In
the 19th century, charcoal was the main source of fuel for
blacksmiths in the region, and the practice of producing
it greatly altered the appearance of the valley as most of
the natural beech trees were cut down. On organised trips
a charcoal burner will demonstrate how it was made. As
the trail continues its upwards ascent to the upper valley
it cuts through thicker alpine forests and finishes at the
parking lot and outdoor snack bar just below the short
path that leads up to Rinka Waterfall. While on your journey
through nature, remember that this is a protected park, so
picking flowers, leaving any kind of rubbish or disturbing
the animals is strictly prohibited.
Rinka Waterfall The second highest waterfall in all of Slovenia, the Rinka plunges a total of 105m from the small river
above to the pool below, with a single drop of 90m. Arguably
the most impressive individual attraction in Logarska Dolina,
if not the entire region, the waterfall is a must-see stop on
any visit. From the parking lot at the end of the road running
through the valley, a well-maintained footpath leads to the
viewing area just below the falls (about a 10-minute walk
slightly uphill), although the best place to take in the gushing
vertical stream is from the café that clings to a rocky crag
just next to the water itself - nicknamed the Eagle’s Nest,
refreshingly cold beers, tasty ice cream bars and generously
poured glasses of schnapps can all be enjoyed on the terrace.
During winter it’s not uncommon to see adventurous climbers
scaling the icy cliff face.
EDEN Slovenia
Matkov Kot
The wildest and most preserved of Solčavsko’s three
valleys, Matkov Kot was ironically the first to have a
proper road, which was built here around 1860 to connect the region with Austria and was mainly used for the
export of wood and charcoal. The road is still used and
little changed (meaning largely unsealed) to this day.
The bottom of the valley is completely uninhabited, while
the several farmsteads here are clustered around the
pastures well up the western slopes of the mountain. One
of these farms is that of the Matk family, from which the
valley takes its name and at 700 hectares was once one
of the largest farms in all of Slovenia.
Most of the visitors who come to the valley are after some
serious hiking (or even more serious mountain biking),
although many tourists also opt for the relatively straightforward hike all the way to the upper end of the valley. The
route follows along the Jezero stream and much larger
dried riverbed through which it runs. The stream’s rather
odd name (jezero means lake in Slovene) is a reference to
the giant glacial lakes that once filled much of the valley
floor.
Matkov Škaf Alternatively referred to as Matk’s tub, Matk’s
bucket, Matk’s tube or simply the snow pit, this natural seasonal phenomenon in the upper reaches of Matkov Kot is
one of the region’s most bizarre sights. Created by the force
of a 40m waterfall which appears each spring as the snow
begins to melt, the falling water slowly erodes an enormous
hole in the compacted snow below. Although its size varies
depending upon how much snow has fallen over the winter,
the hollow usually reaches a depth of some 20-30m and
measures between 10-20m across - in recent years it’s
tended to be at the lesser end of these estimates.
Located at a height of nearly 1500m, it’s quite a long hike
from the nearest parking, as cars can only go as far as the
dry river bed near the beginning of the valley. The best time
to visit is in early June, and local tour agencies can arrange
visits here, as well as a proper climbing adventure down into
the icy abyss.
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Winding its way along the foothills of Olševa mountain at
an average height of over 1200m, the Solčava Panoramic
Road is one of the most scenic drives in all of Slovenia.
Beginning at the fields in the upper reaches of Matkov
Kot in the west, the road twists and turns its way through
various farmsteads and vantages points, past countless
flocks of sheep and small herds of cattle, all the way to the
settlement of Podolševa in the east and then back down
to Solčava from there - covering a total of nearly 20km.
Even for those who have spent time exploring the valleys
below, and have thus become used to the imposing sight
of Kamnik-Savinja Alps looming overhead, the views from
the panoramic road are truly a sublime sight, and it’s not
an exaggeration to say that you feel like you’re on top of
the world. Other than the various vantage points and unobstructed views, highlights include the grassy meadows
and homemade cheese at Žibovt farm, the ethnological
exhibition at Klemenšek farm, the Iron Water Spring, and
the picture-perfect Church of the Holy Spirit.
If you’re feeling even more adventurous, activities such
as paragliding and hikes up to the famous Potočka Zijalka
cave can also be arranged. The route is maintained and
promoted by the Panorama Society (Društvo Panorama)
and even has its own website (www.nad1000m.si), which
is a bit of a work in progress but already a good resource
for prospective visitors.
Iron Spring Located at the end of a short well-kept footpath
just off the Panoramic Road, the water from this underground
stream or spring originates deep within the mountainside
from the tectonic fault that runs along the Kamnik-Savinja
Alps. Rich in iron and carbonic acid, the water has long-been
thought to have healing powers by the locals who drink from it.
We couldn’t resist the urge ourselves, and although it tastes
something like a handful of coins and has a noticeable tingly
feeling, much to the surprise of the other members of our
group we couldn’t stop drinking the stuff, and actually ended
up filling up an empty plastic bottle to take with us.
The sign indicating the spring’s location is easy to miss if
you’re not familiar with the area, so keep an eye out for it
after passing Klemenšek Tourist Farm if you’re coming from
the west, there will be a small parking area on the side of
the road to the right.
Days of Solčava
This traditional ethnological event is the highlight of the
annual cultural calendar in Solčava. Taking place in late
July, visitors can taste the homemade culinary specialities of the region, see exhibitions of local products,
medicinal herbs and indigenous animals, as well as
watch presentations of the most interesting sights in
the area. Like all small town festivals, there is always a
full programme of music concerts and other entertainment events.
The “Bicka” Sheep Wool Festival
In mid to late September, after the shepherds have
brought their flocks back down from their summer grazing in the high alpine pastures, a festival dedicated to
Solčavsko’s indigenous breed of sheep is held. Activities
include a demonstration sheep shearing and wool processing, workshops on the basics of producing felt and
felt products, a fashion show featuring all wool clothing,
traditional mountain cooking, and of course an accompanying cultural programme and lots of live music.
Rinka Centre Events
The Rinka Centre hosts many cultural, business and
other themed events throughout the year, including art
exhibitions in the multipurpose space downstairs.
built in the early 1950s, during a period of reconstruction following the devastating destruction wrought in the final years
of WWII, Rinka long-served as a meeting place for locals and
offices for various local services before falling into disrepair
in the late 1980s. The building was purchased by the city in
2007, and beautifully renovated, modernised and reopened
with the help of funding from Norway.
With a sheer façade of mountain wood and jagged geometrical design resembling one of the many mountain peaks that
surround it, the building is a glowing testament to what can
be achieved with local initiative and proper support. The
basement is now home to the region’s tourist information
Solčava
Rinka Centre Solčava 29, tel. +386 (0)3 839 07 10,
fax +386 (0)3 839 07 11, [email protected], www.
solcavsko.info. Officially called the multipurpose centre for
Solčavsko development, Rinka is the geographical, administrative and tourism centre of the town of Solčava. Originally
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A shepherd in traditional clothing poses with some indigenous
Jezersko-Solčava sheep, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik
2012/13
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Solčavsko Region
centre, which in addition to the usual brochures, guides and
maps, also boasts a multipurpose hall and well-arranged
permanent exhibition that combines historical, natural and
ethnological presentations.
Looking like something out of a Scandinavian design
magazine, on the ground-floor there’s a bright, modern
and entirely wood-covered space that includes a café, gift
shop with local crafts and agriculture products, a internet
corner, and a children’s play area (complete with toy sheep
and thick wool rugs). Meanwhile, the upper floors have local
municipal offices and facilities for use by local businesses
under the framework of a rural development incubator.
Church of Our Lady of the Snows Of the countless
churches and chapels we’ve visited across Slovenia over
the years, Solčava’s Our Lady of the Snows manages to
stand out from the rest. This is thanks in no small part to
its remote mountain location, perched on a little hill just
above the centre of Solčava with a backdrop of mountains
in every direction, but the church itself is also a fine specimen of Gothic architecture and its interior contains several
intriguing artistic and religious elements that are well worth
viewing. A church was first built here by monks from the
market town of Gornji Grad in the 12th or 13th century, while
the much larger church that can still be seen today was
completed in 1485 after a quarter century of construction,
and the neo-Gothic bell tower was added at the beginning
of the 18th century. Special attention should be paid to the
uppermost niche of the main altar, where the impressive
sandstone statue of the Solčavsko Marija stands. Often
considered one of the most beautiful religious sculptures in
Slovenia, this Romanesque work dates back to the middle
of the 13th century. As the church has been without its own
priest for some years, it is kept locked except for during
Sunday morning mass, so enquire at the tourist information
centre in Rinka if you’d like to visit.
Solčavsko Region
provides an in-depth history of the folk medicine and medicinal plant life in the area, including the extensive research
conducted by a rather peculiar local called Vid Strgar, who
lived in the nearby Fidova Zijalka cave with his wife for the
better part of nine years. Definitely worth visiting either
before or after sampling the fine cuisine upstairs. Q Admission €1.50, children €1. Video presentation €10/group.
The Needle Unless you’re coming to Solčavsko by way
of the small mountain road leading from Austria, an even
smaller partially unsealed road leading to the Koroška region or on foot over the mountains, you will have to literally
pass through the eye of a needle to get here. The needle in
question is a towering obelisk shaped natural rock formation along the upper Savinja river on the main road between
Luče and Robanov Kot. And before you bristle at our use
of the word ‚literally’, know that a hole has actually been
bored into the massive rock’s base leaving just enough
room for vehicles to squeeze though - completing the needle
imagery with an eye that even a camel could pass through
(sorry, we couldn’t resist). In any event, this is just about
the most appropriate entrance to one of Slovenia’s most
remote and naturally beautiful regions.
Adventure Valley Luče 103, tel. +386 (0)51 606
410/+386 (0)51 606 420, [email protected],
www.adventurevalley.si. The name of this outfit was not
chosen at random, if it’s adventure you’re looking for then
these are the people to get in touch with. They offer more
or less any outdoor activity that you can imagine, from the
standard choices of rafting, rock climbing and mountain
biking to those suitable for the most extreme adrenaline
junkies, such as paragliding over mountain peaks, canyon-
292, [email protected], www.fidov-gaj.si. Fans of medicinal herbs and natural remedies won’t want to miss a
chance to visit the mystical Fida Grove and nearby Fida
Zijalka cave, which was for some nine years the home to a
local eccentric, doctor of folk medicines and accomplished
author Vid Strgar in the second half of the 19th century.
Recently renovated and opened to tourists, the relatively
easy walking path to the cave passes through some beautiful little mountain meadows and forests, with an extended
visit to Strgar’s garden of medicines, which served as the
inspiration for his widely read tome of folk medicines Health
of Patients (Zdravje Bolnikov), first published in 1866. Of
course most interesting for most people is the visit to the
small karst cave where the good doctor resided for nearly
a decade. Tours take between 2 and 2.5 hours. Q Admission €4, children €2.50. Groups of more than 10 receive a
slight discount.
EDEN Slovenia
Archery is only one of the many activities offered at
Gradišnik Farm, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik
ing up crashing waterfalls and cycling through caves - and
these are just the summer adventures. In the winter you can
chose from tour skiing, ice climbing, sledding, snowshoeing
and much more.
Operated by a young energetic team of highly trained professionals, they even offer multi-day packages that include
room, board, transport and all activities. While they are
technically located in Luče just across the municipal border
from Solčava, their trips cover the entire Upper Savinja
Valley, and are primarily focussed on the Solčavsko region.
Detailed info can be found on their very user-friendly English
language website.
Robanov Kot
Fidov Gaj Logarska Dolina 1a, tel. +386 (0)41 742
Firšt Museum Logarska Dolina 1a, tel. +386 (0)3 839
46 78, [email protected], www.first-logarska.si.
On the ground floor of the Firšt restaurant and guesthouse
just west of Solčava there’s fine little museum that details
the discovery of and findings from the Potočka Zijalka Cave,
which is considered one of the most important archeological
and paleontological sites in Slovenia. A total of 18 information boards are in Slovene, with shorter explanations in
English and German, and there are some interesting and
self-explanatory maps of the area, charts and photos that
include the most famous item from the cave: the world’s
oldest needle. A 25-minute multi-vision presentation is
also available, but this is currently only available in Slovene.
In 2007, a separate exhibition opened at the museum, which
Traditional handicrafts of Solčavsko
The road to Solčava literally passes through the eye of the
Needle, photo by Andrejka Lončar Horvat
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In many ways Robanov Kot is the perfect combination
of Solčavsko’s other two valleys, Logarska Dolina and
Matkov Kot, as it offers the wide open meadows, photogenic farms and easy yet rewarding walking paths of the
former, along with the serenity and authentic undeveloped nature of the latter.
Protected as an area of natural importance since 1987,
the valley takes its name from Roban farmstead, which
was first written into the land registry in 1426, but likely
dates back to at least the 12th century. We’re not sure
if this makes it one of the oldest continually operating
family farms in Slovenia (or perhaps even Europe) but
nine centuries and countless generations in the same
family seems an impressive achievement to us.
While the family’s farm is not open for tourists, they do
operate an alpine dairy at the far end of the valley, which
also sells homemade goods and is a popular destination
for hikers during the summer months. It takes about an
hour to walk there from where the road becomes closed
to traffic, through wild forests and pastures filled with
grazing sheep and cows.
From the dairy the trail very quickly climbs upwards leading to Molička Planina and further still to the beautiful
Korošica plateau located at over 1800m. From mid-June
to the end of the September hikers can stop here at
a mountain hut to rest before attempting to reach the
peak of Ojstrica at 2350m.
Even for those who’d rather keep their hiking on more or
less horizontal ground, it’s well worth hiring a guide to
accompany you - if for no other reason than to tell you
some of the stories and fables of the acclaimed folk
writer Jože Vršnik, who was born in Robanov Kot in 1900
and spent a good deal of his seventy years here writing
about the true essence of rural life in Solčava.
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While the most valuable thing most visitors to Solčavsko
take home with them are the lasting memories of their
trip, and perhaps some unbelievable photos documenting it for their friends and family back home, there are
plenty of options for those who’d like to purchase more
tangible souvenirs or gifts. The region’s traditional
handicrafts are focussed on three materials: wood, wool
and marble.
With 88% of the region covered in forests, it’s no surprise
that wood plays a key role in the lives of locals, from the
construction and furnishing of their houses to fuel for
their fireplaces to material for their crafts. More than
just a natural resource, Solčavsko’s mountain wood is
believed to contain a special energy from the environment that is able to positively affect people. Mountain
larch and spruce trees are the most commonly used
species, as they have the perfect combination of malleability and hardness when they are cut down at the
right time. The items produced range from the functional
(bowls and dishes) to the entertaining (simple games) to
the purely aesthetic.
Sheep, or more specifically the indigenous JezerskoSolčava breed that was created by cross-breeding
domestic sheep to be more adapted to alpine conditions,
have been a common sight in Solčavsko for centuries.
Lovingly referred to as Solčavka, the wool they produce
was long the main material used for traditional clothing,
but somewhat fell out of use during the socialist era.
However, there has recently been a concerted effort to
promote the use of wool once again, and in particular the
art of felt making. Bicka (www.bicka.si) is a locally-formed
cooperative of over a dozen women, which utilises traditional felt making methods to create new and innovative
products and designs. Many of their creations, such as
slippers, hats and cute stuffed animals, can be seen
at the Rinka Centre, and they also have a workshop
and showroom nearby which can be visited with prior
arrangement.
For years the beautiful pink marble that is native to certain parts of Solčavsko’s mountainous terrain has been
used to create religious objects in churches, decorate
the region’s simple farmhouses, or for other functional
construction purposes. More recently it has been used
by one local craftsman in particular, Medard Šumet, to
create decorative items like vases, small dishes and
paperweights, as well as purely artistic pieces. These
can also be purchased at the Rinka Centre, and visits
to Mr Šumet’s workshop high above Matkov Kot on the
Panoramic Road can also be arranged.
Photo by Uroš Acman
2012/13
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Soča Valley
Soča Valley
Alternatively you could rent a bike from Tolmin (6km from
Most na Soči) and cycle the rest of the way, if you’re feeling a little adventurous.
The Walk of Peace
By bus
Gregorčečeva 8, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 389 01
67/+386 (0)31 586 296, [email protected], www.
potmiru.si. The most important sights connected with
the first world war in the Soča valley have been joined
together on this trail since 2007. Divided into five sections of varying difficulty, it begins at Log Pod Mangartom
and ends at an outdoor museum on Mengore hill near
Most na Soči, spanning a total of over 80km. Needless
to say, there are possibilities to sleep at settlements
along the way, including at the section start/end points
and at a mountain hut on Kuhinja. Hikes to other nearby
mountains are easy to access, and indeed the Walk of
Peace itself utilises mainly existing mountain and tourist
paths, itself being extra-marked.
There’s a direct bus from Ljubljana every day (11:15 and
17:50 weekdays, 06:30 and 17:50 at weekends), and
there are lots of international links to and from Ljubljana.
By bike
You could even rent a bike in Ljubljana (or use your own)
and cycle the whole way (about 120km), if you’re a very
keen adventurer or crazy, or both!
What to See
The Soča River The river Soča, all 136km of it, is an
almost untouched piece of nature waiting to be discovered.
At its source in Trenta the pure clear alpine water springs
from a dark karst crevice, then flows rapidly towards the
Adriatic sea, along the way featuring such natural beauties
as deep gorges and graceful waterfalls.
The bright turquoise colour of the Soča deser ves a
paragraph itself. Utterly awesome just about begins to
describe the thoughts that come to mind when gazing
upon its splendour. The best time of year to experience
its full impact is spring, when freshly melted alpine snow
seeps into its tributaries. Apparently the green-blue colour
is retained even as far as Friuli, northern Italy - a testament
to its pure alpine origins.
All manner of watersports and river-based activities begin
to thrive on and around the Soča come springtime: kayaking, rafting, hydrospeed and fly-fishing for the famous Soča
trout. The mystique of the Soča is still held dear by the
locals who live on its banks, representing an almost spiritual
presence, undoubtedly a symbol of natural perfection.
Mountaineering on Kanin, photo by FA Bobo, Archive of LTO Bovec
As Slovenia’s first European Destination of Excellence in 2008, expectations are bound to be high, the
country itself brimming with natural beauty and culture.
As one transcends the winding road up from Tolmin, or
descends the southside of Vršič mountain pass, they
become mesmerised by flashes of turquoise appearing at their side. Steal a glance or two more and you
realise it is an enchanting river, none other than the
Soča. Along its banks, in its catchment area, several
towns and numerous villages have lain since the Slavic
tribes settled here in the 6th century, the ancestors of modern day Slovenes, their luck untold. It is a
beautiful valley, in the true sense of the word. Towering
rocky mountains of Triglav National Park, lush green
forest and that crystalline water on pure white stones.
Breathtaking.
It is not often said that we are in a golden age of travel.
We Westerners at least, can afford to travel almost
anywhere in the world and there are indeed too many
things to see in one person’s lifetime. However, the
ease of travel within Europe at the moment is obvious.
Thus the accessibility and proximity of the Soča valley
for many Europeans makes it something not to miss.
For those who can appreciate natural beauty, or enjoy
it through outdoor activities like hiking, mountain biking, fly fishing, whitewater rafting or paragliding, it’s
perfection. Its significance in modern history undoubtedly draws visitors too, the world wars having seen
key front lines on this territory. The stories of war and
the area’s heritage are told through excellent indoor
and outdoor museums, mountain trails and historical
EDEN Slovenia
remains such as the medieval Kluže fortress, all linked
by the Walk of Peace.
Culturally speaking, the self-reliant Soča valley offers
stone and sand art, wax and wool products, folkloric
song and dance, and the cuisine, oh the cuisine. From
Tolmin and Bovec cheese to the native Soča trout,
unique ‘čompe’ Bovec potatoes and sweet sweet Kobarid ‘štruklji’, there’s plenty to discover.
Arriving
By car
From Ljubljana take the A2 motorway north towards Jesenice, exit there for the main road to Kranjska Gora. Turn left
through the centre then keep going out of the town and
over the Vršič mountain pass (1611m). After about 30km
you will see signs for Trenta, then for Bovec, just keep
going along main road 206. From Trieste take the A4 north
towards Udine, keep following Udine on the A23 north,
then exit at Udine. Take the main road west from Udine
toward Cividale Del Friuli, stay on this road all the way to
Kobarid (Slovenia). Then turn left for Bovec at the far end
of the town. If you don’t have your transport, take a bus
first to Ljubljana.
By train
Trains are quite tricky. The closest they get to Bovec is
Most na Soči, approximately 40km to the south. From
there you could take a taxi, but bear in mind the distance.
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Ustanova “Fundacija Poti Miru v Posočju”
pools follows the experience. Upwards of twenty agencies
in Bovec offer whitewater adventures on the Soča.
Fly Fishing on the Soča www.flyfishing.si. For
angling enthusiasts the river Soča should be some kind of
Mecca, fly fishermen mandated to visit its waters at least
once in their lifetime. A haven for trout, the only kind of fishing allowed here is that of the fly. Be them dry, wet, nymph
or streamer, you may put your flies only on barbless hooks
(just singles), but any kind of line and leader is fine. Those
are not the only strict rules for fishing on the Soča, so one
would be well advised to do their research in advance and
have the required permits. Then get out there and catch
yourself some dinner!
Triglav National Park Triglav National Park, the only one of
its kind in Slovenia, covers only 3% of the landmass, yet what
a spectacular proportion it is. Located in the south-eastern
section of the Alps, the Eastern Julian Alps stretch across
much of north-western Slovenia, bordering Austria to the north
and Italy to the west. The park’s breathtaking landscape,
including jagged peaks, expansive spruce forest, lush valleys
and harmonious ecosystem has all been protected since the
Alpine Conservation Park was founded back in 1924.
The centrepiece and inspiration for its name is Mount Triglav,
the highest in Slovenia (2864 metres). The mountain is the
symbol of Slovenia (it appears in the coat of arms), and the
country’s flag was flown here on June 26th, 1991, the day
Slovenia declared independence from Yugoslavia. The name,
Triglav, means three-headed, as it looks to have three peaks
when seen from the Bohinj valley. The climb to the summit is
not all that hard, but it is long. It’s a two-day ascent to the top,
and requires an overnight stay in a mountain cabin. In short,
it’s a special piece of nature, well worth visiting.
Watersports on the Soča Rafting, kayaking, hydrospeed, what better ways to experience the grandeur of
the river Soča? On the waters themselves you can enjoy
(and endure) a great little adventure, with a team of friends
in a raft, a group of them in kayaks or gliding through the
tourquoise liquid crystal with little more than a wetsuit.
Qualified guides make sure the experience is safe, yet
there should be no less sense of awe as you rush across
rapids, float through dark green pools, pass huge rocks and
cheer your arrival at the finishing point (Trnovo ob Soči). A
customary, actually obligatory dip in one of the brisk river’s
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Evening on the Soča river, photo by Dan Briški, Archive LTO
Bovec
2012/13
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Soča Valley
Tourist Information
TIC Bovec Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 8, tel. +386 (0)5
389 64 44/+386 (0)31 388 700, fax +386 (0)5
389 64 45, [email protected], www.bovec.si.QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00, 14:30-17:00.
During summer open every day 08:30-20:30.
TIC Kobarid Trg Svobode 16, tel. +386 (0)5 380
04 90, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 91, info.kobarid@
lto-sotocje.si, www.visit-soca.com. Q Open 09:0016:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-14:00. During the summer open
every day from 09:00-20:00.
TIC Tolmin Petra Skalarja 4, tel. +386 (0)5 380 04
80/+386 (0)51 600 549, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 83,
[email protected], www.visit-soca.com. Q Open
09:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-13:00. During the summer
open every day 09:00-20:00.
Information Point TNP Dom Trenta Na Logu v
Trenti, tel. +386 (0)5 388 93 30, dom-tnp.trenta@
tnp.gov.si, www.tnp.si.
EDEN Soča Valley Tel. +386 (0)5 38 96 444, info@
dolina-soce.si, www.dolina-soce.si.
Bovec
Still on the sunny side of the alps, Bovec is a real green
piece of Europe, a must if you really want to feel sLOVEnia!
Catchy official slogans aside, Slovenia’s supreme summer and
winter sports town really offers a lot. Lying in the magnificent
upper Soča valley in northwestern Slovenia, Bovec allows you
to explore all the natural beauties of Triglav National Park.
The town is a great base for summer activity holidays, hiking
and mountain biking on land, paragliding from the surrounding
alpine peaks through the air, or rafting and kayaking on the
truly awesome turquoise waters of the river Soča. The area is
also extremely popular during the winter ski season. The lifts
to Kanin ski centre sit only half a kilometre from the centre of
Bovec, making it a popular winter sports destination as well.
What to See in Bovec
The Soča Trail This marked hiking trail starts way up at
the source of the said river down toward Bovec, winding with
the emerald river and featuring several rope bridges, perfect
for getting those ‘‘is this picture from photoshop?’’ shots.
Soča Valley
EDEN Slovenia
Krn Lake (Krnsko Jezero) At the end of the Lepena Valley,
16km from Bovec, lies a gem of a lake that represents the
treasure at the end of a two to two and a half hour trek. The
basin at the bottom of Mount Krn is almost completely filled
with Krnsko jezero’s waters, at 400m long and 17m deep the
largest Alpine lake. At an altitude of 1340m, you can admire
serene sunsets from its banks amidst the rocky Julian-Alpine
peaks. The smaller shallower Duplje lake is nearby, just above
it standing a newly built mountain lodge.
Boka Waterfall Acknowledged as one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Slovenia, Boka is the enormous threshold
of waters descending from the Kanin mountain range. As
such, late spring happens to be the best time to visit: when
the thick snow is melting, up to 100 tons of water per second
falls first 106m freely, then a further 30m on an incline. It is
visible from a bridge on the Kobarid-Bovec road (near Žaga). A
rather demanding footpath from the road leads to the source
of the waterfall, which takes about an hour and a half to
reach.
Prestreljenik Window on Mt Kanin After alighting the
huge Kanin cable car at the final stop, there’s a fair chance
you’ll be embaking upon a trek or hike of some description,
should you not be here to hit the slopes for winter sports fun.
Marked routes from the last station on the cable car lead to
the peak of Mt Kanin and the natural rock window formation
of ten by seven and a half metres. Stunning!
Great Soča Gorge (Velika Korita Soče) The river
Soča never ceases to amaze: about 7km above Bovec (near
the road to Trenta), the Great Soča gorge has been carved
by the meandering tourquoise waters. Now 15metres deep
and 750m long, you can go and look in awe at its jagged walls
and colourful, ever-flowing alpine torrent.
Ravelnik Open Air Museum (Muzej na Prostem)
Accommodation
Gostišče Andrejc Soča 31, tel. +386 (0)5 388
95 30/+386 (0)41 33 25 20, gostisce.andrejc@
siol.net, www.andrejc.eu. Ideally located for those
wishing to be IN the thick of the outdoors, rather than
merely on their doorstep, this guest house of sorts lies
between Mala Korita and Velika Korita (the small and
large gorges) on the river Soča. In the village of Soča, in
fact, Andrejc can really sell itself as an excellent base
for outdoor activities, especially hiking to the Julian Alps
(notably for Bavški Grintavec). The restaurant serves
both local and international cuisine. TIRLBK
Hotel Mangart Bovec Mala vas 107, Bovec, tel.
+386 (0)5 388 42 50, fax +386 (0)5 388 42 51,
[email protected], www.hotel-mangart.com.
A medium-sized and luxurious residence set out of the
centre of Bovec, in the middle of the valley and surrounded
by natural beauty. One of a couple of hotels named after
mountains in the area, the Mangart offers rooms, family
rooms and suites within its traditionallly Alpine walls. It’s
all very fresh, new , conveniently located and accordingly
popular. Q 92 beds. THLKDWhhh
Pristava Lepena Lepena 2, Soča, tel. +386 (0)5
Tasting Bovec’s famous cheese is a must, photo by Samo
Vidič, Archive LTO Bovec
is remembered with a small exhibition of the Soča front and
other local battles. Find Kluže on the main road from Bovec
to Log Pod Mangartom and the Predel pass to Italy.
Sights along the trail, which connects secluded spots via
older footpaths, include the Alpine Botanical Garden Julijana,
Trenta Museum, Great Soča Gorge. It makes for quite a full
tour of the region and one which is very attractive to everyone
except those averse to any kind of walking.
388 99 00/+386 (0)41 67 19 81, pristava.lepena@
siol.net, www.pristava-lepena.com. This place is
special. On arrival you are greeted by the famous Lipice
horses and friendly mountain goats. Run as a hotel and
horse-riding centre and taking the form of a typical alpine
village, you can find pretty much everything in this perfect
blend of modern and traditional. There‘s even a sauna,
fitness room and conference room within the beautiful
log cabins, all amid the spectacular mountainous scenery. Located 9km from Bovec. Q €50-69 per person.
HAIFLBKDCW hhhh
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
The Great Soča Gorge at Trenta, photo by Dan Briški,
Archive LTO Bovec
Alpine Botanical Garden (Alpski Botanični Vrt)
Trenta Valley, tel. +386 (0)1 241 09 40, uprava@pms-lj.
si, www2.pms-lj.si. Slovenia’s natural diversity in terms of
flora has been presented here since 1926. Around the time of
Alpine Conservation Park planning this beautiful and peaceful
place was set up, and allows you to see Central European,
Illyrian and sub-mediterranean, as well as Alpine flora all
together. Even if you don’t really care about the scientific
details of what you’re looking at, or if you instantaneously
forget the Latin name of the said plants, it still makes a
pleasant sheltered walk for young families or elderly visitors
to Slovenia’s Alpine region.
Cycling Mangart and Bovec cheese-tasting The
highest mountain road in Slovenia also happens to be one
of the most scenic. You depart from Log Pod Mangartom and
make your way up towards the Predel pass (Italian border),
turning right for Mangart and winding up the steep final 11km.
The beautiful scenery is a welcome distraction from the slog,
and should you be riding in summer the numerous tunnels
will bring some welcome cool. The first or last stop will be
the Mangart pasture for cheese-tasting. Bovški sir (Bovec
cheese) is a full flavoured and slightly spicy sheep’s cheese,
and the Bovec area boasts a rich heritage from the 14th
century. In addition to the cheese of course, another reward
for your efforts is the view of two lakes from the Magartsko
Sedlo (Mangart Saddle), but of course the uphill cycling can
also be at least a masochistic pleasure in itself.
Located at a small hill dense with remnants of the first world
war, this open air museum’s aims are firmly focussed on
authenticity. Visitors can also go on a guided tour led by a
‘‘WWI soldier’’ in full uniform, drink military tea from tin cups
and traject a circular path running along the once AustroHungarian first line of defence, with trenches, tunnels, caves,
pillboxes and reconstructed cabins.
Šunik Water Hurst (Šunikov Vodni Gaj) The water
hurst at Šunik combines beautiful natural scenery: several
cascades and pools with healing energy properties, which are
in abundance in the territory of Slovenia. The remains of an
old mill, which still functioned well into the middle of the 20th
century, adds a bit of ethnological interest to the trail as well.
Mangart Saddle (Mangrtsko Sedlo) In addition to
being a cycling heaven, the highest mountain road in Slovenia
also affords the visitor on foot abundant natural delights. The
rock composition makes for a large array of mountain flora.
Walking through the blossoming slopes, you may spot the
friendly native Marmot, if not the two pine-green lakes. The
latter, along with the high peak of Grossglockner on clear
days, can be viewed from the saddle itself. On your way up a
cheese-tasting at the Mangart pasture seems a great excuse
for a break, with the opportunity to try the top quality Bovec
cheese courtesy of a cheese-making tradition 700 years old.
Your next proper break might well be the mountain hut at the
top, for some warm tea, cold beer or ‘hrana na žlico’ (food
from the spoon, for example goulash).
Kluže Fortress (Trdnjava Kluže) Tel. +386 (0)5 38
86 758/+386 (0)51 361 070, trdnjavakluze@gmail.
com, www.kluze.net. As hilltop fortifications go, Kluže is
one of Slovenia’s most impressive. Set above the Koritnica
gorge, it falls against a backdrop of the Julian Alps. As well
as the immense natural virtue to be soaked up there’s also
the cultural; it is increasing serving as the region’s centre for
social, artistic and entertainment events. The first world war
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Performance 1313 in Kluže Fortress, photo by FA Bobo,
Archive LTO Bovec
2012/13
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Soča Valley
Soča Valley
Gostilna Sovdat Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 24, tel. +386
Kanin
Dvor 43, Bovec, www.boveckanin.si. Perched high
above Bovec, Kanin is Slovenia’s only high altitude (i.e.
over 2000m) ski centre and boasts the country’s longest
“winter’’ season, actually running all the way from November until well into spring and the May national holidays.
Previously a medium sized resort with 15km of ski runs,
in 2009 Kanin is joined with a new lift to the Sella Nevea
ski centre across the border in Italy, to make it Slovenia’s
only transnational resort. With a good range of slopes
it will appeal to everyone from complete beginners to
advanced skiers and boarders. If that’s not enough for
you, guests with a six-day Kanin pass can also ski in a
third country for two days, at the Arnoldstein centre in
Austria. There are off piste opportunities at Kanin, but we
wouldn’t recommend this without an experienced guide.
The imposing peaks of the mountain range overlook
Bovec and the truly magnificent Soča Valley, with its
famous emerald river. The Soča Valley was even featured
in a Hollywood blockbuster, The Chronicles or Narnia.
The panorama from Kanin extends all the way from the
eastern Julian alps to Trieste, the mouth of the Soča River
and the Adriatic sea, the proximity of which ensures a
tangible mix between crisp alpine air and Mediterraneanlike warm breezes. In the spring this great combination
really blossoms, when you can you can ski in the morning,
then sunbathe on the snow-beach, or trek in the warm
lush valley in the afternoon. It even makes skiing in a
t-shirt a real possibility!
Summertime attracts hikers, climbers, paragliders and
mountain bikers - the latter flocking to the 4.5km long
and 600m high Kanin MTB park. There are also deep
shafts for cavers, the biggest of which, Vrtoglavica Jama,
has the longest vertical drop in the world (603m). Kanin
is reached by way of a massive cable car, ascending
from 436m to 2,200m above sea level it’s an adventure
in itself, as you can witness the vast change in flora
and fauna in just a few minutes - it has to be seen to
be believed.
Trenta Museum and Triglav National Park Information Center (Trentarski Muzej) Tel. +386 (0)5
388 93 30, [email protected], www.tnp.
si. The important point of reference for those hungry for
information about Triglav National Park. As the full name
of the Trenta lodge suggests, this place presents the
natural idiosyncracies of the Julian Alps aswell as quaint
ethnological and cultural heritage of the Trenta and Soča
valleys. Set over several floors, the permanent exhibition
first of all covers the environment, geology and hydrology
of Triglav National Park. The Trenta Valley ethnological collection is to be found on the third floor, showcasing history,
domestic culture and including a reconstructed typical local
house, not to mention Alpine dairy farm and sheep pasture.
Despite its seemingly inaccessible location (deep in the
Trenta valley at Na Logu), the museum has full disabled
access (wheelchair access, toilets, lift). As with many rural
attractions in Slovenia, special guided tours are possible if
arranged prior to arrival.
Sports Agencies in Bovec
Aktivni Planet & Zip Line Slovenia Trg Golobarskih
Žrtev 19, tel. +386 (0)40 639 433/+386 (0)31 653
417, [email protected], [email protected],
www.aktivniplanet.si, www.ziplineslovenia.si. All kinds
of river based watersports, plus caving, offroad tours.
EDEN Slovenia
(0)5 388 60 27/+386 (0)41 473 620, gostilnasovdat@
gmail.com. If you want good hearty Slovenian and European
food you don’t have to walk far. Sovdat - just within view of
the main square in Bovec - is a typical Slovenian restaurant,
simple and friendly. If you can forgive the decoration outside
(fake flowers and seaweed green cushions), the garden is
a pleasant environment with a great mountain view. Fish,
Wiener schnitzel and a variety of local dishes are all served
here in big portions. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Thu.
(€4.80-16). JAB
The heavenly views from Mt Kanin in the wintertime, photo
by Danijel Žagar, Archive LTO Bovec
Bovec Šport Centre Kot 2, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)5 388
60 32/+386 (0)31 26 36 32, [email protected], www.
bovec-sc.si. We like the open and quite spiritual director of
this activity centre. He and his guides aim to offer a deeper
connection and experience than that of the usual host/client relationship. A good choice for the inexperienced (and/
or terrified), they have just introduced an easier-to-control
inflatable kayak to the Soča. They tell us you can become at
one with nature, both on water and on land. Rafting, kayaking,
canyoning, hydrospeed, hiking, mountainbiking, caving and
winter packages are all available. An office is also located in
Boka Pension, between Kobarid and Bovec.
Hydromania Mala Vas 119, tel. +386 (0)31 80 80 75,
[email protected], www.hydromania.si. Watersports
on the river Soča, especially rafting, canyoning, kayak and
hydrospeed, plus they also do paintball. Based in Bovec.
Soča Rafting Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 14, Bovec, tel.
+386 (0)41 72 44 72/+386 (0)5 389 62 00, info@
socarafting.si, www.socarafting.si. One of the leading
sports and adventure agencies in the area and the oldest in
Bovec, Soča Rafting offers activities directed by friendly local
guides and equipment rental. They are open every day, all year
round - unique, so they say. In summer they organise rafting,
canyoning, kayaking, caving and mountain biking, and in winter
ski lessons and courses and equipment rental. Everything is
photographed and available for purchase at the end of the
day. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00; 16:00 - 18:00.
SocaRider Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 40, tel. +386 (0)41
596 104/+386 (0)41 859 941, [email protected],
www.socarider.com. Focussing on rafting, kayak and
canyoning, Soča rider offers trips especially for families,
handpicking stretches of the river safe for children as young
as three. Excursions are also offered to natural jewels in the
area such as Krn lake, Boka waterfall Tolminka gorge and the
source of the Soča.
Stari Kovač Rupa 3, tel. +386 (0)5 388 66 99/+386
(0)41 646 427, [email protected], www.starikovac.
com. Adoreable are many a guest house and restaurant
in Slovenia, and here is an example with a charming rustic
atmosphere. With an interior reflecting a Blacksmith’s heritage, typical local specialities such as ‘frika’ (eggs, cheese,
potatoes and bacon), international dishes including sea food
and mixed grill are lovingly prepared. Good quality pizzas are
also served, having been baked in a wood fired oven. Self
catering apartments are available, but to pass up the many
good culinary opportunities in Bovec, not least those at Stari
Kovač itself, is definitely a waste. JLBKW
Where to Drink in Bovec
As one would expect from a small town, it’s mostly restaurant based, with a couple of bars and late cafes entertaining the locals and visitors until the wee hours. Expect it to
be much busier during ski season.
Jojo Bar Rupa 7a, tel. +386 (0)5 389 60 10/+386 (0)41
880 906, [email protected], www.joffitours.com. Part of
the Joffitours tour agency, who organise adventure sports and
accommodation in the Soča Valley, Jojo bar (pronounced ‘yoyo’ by
Slovenes) offers Illy coffee, sandwiches, warming drinks for winter
(including teas and hot chocolate) and juices. Sports events are
screened inside, or one can just enjoy the aesthetic treat of the
surroundings from the Jojo bar garden. Located down the street
from Bovec’s main square, near the Hotel Kanin. QOpen 07:30
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.
Pub Mangart Bovec Mala Vas 107, tel. +386 (0)5
388 42 50/+386 (0)40 291 751, info@hotel-mangart.
com, www.hotel-mangart.com. On the ground floor of
the Hotel Mangart, the pub with the same namesake, the
nearby Mt. Mangart, is a pleasant place to relax or indeed
dine (also being a restaurant). With space for up to ninety
389 61 60/+386 (0)31 87 19 91, team@sportmix.
si, www.sportmix.si. Full range of outdoor activities and
adrenaline sports, specialised in river-based watersports.
Gift certificates available, and they have a multilingual website
with comprehensive price-list.
Where to Eat in Bovec
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
guests, special functions are possible in the pub part, and
the open surroundings of the hotel building itself give unobstructed views of beautiful nature, making it attractive for
such events. The summertime sees the opening of a garden,
the kids having the possibility to let off steam on the playground. Worth a visit least not for the free wireless internet.
PTALBKW
Kobarid
Usually it’s the natural attractions that are proclaimed gems
in the Soča valley, but Kobarid also goes some way to earning itself such a description. In what is a cosy and affable
town, you can indulge in some fine dining courtesy of a ‘Kobarid Gastronomic Circle’ restaurant, or launch yourself into
an active holiday (with opportunities such as rafting, kayaking, hydrospeed, mountain biking, paragliding, hiking and hill
walking, fly fishing). Here you can learn about a significant
period of modern history, the first world war. The award
winning Kobarid Museum tells the story of bloody battle,
a story recounted by Ernest Hemingway in A Farewell to
Arms, having been a war correspondent at Soča.
The Italianicised and Germanicised versions of the name
(Caporetto and Karfreit) come from periods of violent
assimilation or annexation, and in fact Kobarid was almost
completely destroyed by the end of WWI. After being
passed around during the interwar years and falling under
temporary military administration after the second world
war, the town was finally returned to Slovene hands, under
Yugoslavia at the time of course. From the 1960’s until the
present day, Kobarid has been frequented by tourists, not
only because of its historical heritage but also for the natural beauties nearby, and there are other charming villages
in the area, for example Vrsno and Krn, under the mighty
Mt. Krn, from which a couple of notable noble locals come
(Simon Gregorčič, poet, and Simon Rutar, historian).
Golf Bovec
Sport Mix Trg Golobarskih Žtrev 18, tel. +386 (0)5
A few good quality eateries, you can’t really go wrong
with traditional Slovenian gostilnas or pizzerias here. Just
watch out for hidden supplements (€1-2) on the bill for
bread and your table.
Open air museum Kolovrat on the Walk of Peace in the
Soča Valley, photo by Tamino Petelinšek, Archive Fundacija
Poti Miru
The Alpine Botanical Garden in Trenta, photo by Tina
Gerkman
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Podklopca 15, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)40 38 22
29/+386 (0)41 25 38 14, [email protected], www.
golfbovec.si. If you need to unwind a little after engaging in too many adrenaline charged adventure sports,
or you’re just a secret golf addict, sneak off here for a
sly round. There’s a nine-hole course and driving range,
with five tee-off positions, all just a few kilometres from
Bovec. Prices are quite reasonable for Slovenia, especially given the setting, with weekday rounds starting
at €26 for 9 holes. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
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Soča Valley
What to See in Kobarid
Kobarid Museum (Kobariški Muzej) Gregorčičeva
10, tel. +386 (0)5 389 00 00/+386 (0)41 71 40 72,
fax +386 (0)5 389 00 02, [email protected],
www.kobariski-muzej.si. With a wealth of information and
an impressive audio-visual presentation of the events of the
first world war Soška fronta (Isonzo front), the collection here
won an award for Best European Museum in 1993. Two and a
half years of fighting and one of the major mountain battles in
history (the 12th Isonzo battle - or Caporetto breakthrough)
are covered, the sorry story told with sensitivity. Perhaps
the bloody Soča front is most known because of one Ernest
Hemingway, whose novel A Farewell to Arms remembered
the man’s experiences on that very battlefield. The museum
is located in the old centre of Kobarid, and tours to the battlefield itself are also available by prior arrangement.
Kobarid Historical Trail Tel. +386 (0)5 380 04 90,
fax +386 (0)5 380 04 91, [email protected],
www.visit-soca.com. Something you can do yourself, or be
guided around (recommended), Kobarid’s historical trail takes
you on a magical historical tour through some of the area’s
important eras. Included in the places linked by the trail is
the Kozjak waterfall, a 5km stretch taking you into ancient
times, and a major historical period - World War One, in the
Kobarid Museum. Taste the renowned local cheese, Tolminc,
and learn about the pastures and cheese-making traditions
here, then buy some to take home of course. Set aside three
to five hours for the tour.
Kozjak Waterfalls Kozjak brook comprises six waterfalls,
originating at Mt Krnčica (2142m) and serving as a tributary to
the Soča river. Veliki Kozjak is the largest and most impressive
of the said waterfalls, representing one of the most picturesque in Slovenia. Another highlight is the vast underground
hall and pristine pool, the latter we presume is very cold (we
didn’t swim): both are 250m lower than Veliki Kozjak. To reach
the falls head towards Drežnica from Kobarid, there’s a turnoff
just after Napoleon bridge.
Soča Valley
Kolovrat Open Air Museum (Muzej na Prostem)
One of a couple of open air museums dedicated to the first
world war, Kolovrat was strategically important for the Italians,
forming its army’s third line of defence, or ‘linea d’armata’. Positioned on a ridge between Slovenia’s Upper Soča and Italy’s
Veneto regions, Kolovrat features a lookout and favourable
panoramic views. Reach the site by heading towards Tolmin
from Kobarid, turning to Livek village near Idrsko, then Livške
Ravne, or take the right turn approximately 2km before Tolmin.
Sports Agencies in Kobarid
Tandem Jump from Stol Of course you won’t be seated
for this attraction, notwithstanding the mountain’s name: Stol
(Chair). In fact you’ll be soaring through the air, sometimes for
a good while. Above the slopes of Julian Alps, your view will
include the Adriatic sea to the south and the prominant Central
Alps to the north. The tandem jump is the ideal first paragliding
experience, and there’s nowhere we’d rather take that plunge,
or rather flight (hopefully) in Slovenia than in this valley.
X Point Trg Svobode 6, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 388 53
08/+386 (0)5 388 53 08, [email protected], www.xpoint.
si. Being established over 15 years means that Kobarid’s
main outdoor activity agency are fully connected when it
comes to arranging your rafting, canyoning, hydrospeed,
canoe, miniraft, kayaking, tandem paragliding, mountain
biking, walking or climbing. Indeed, on your sporting trips
or teambuilding exercises (also possible) you can be accompanied by highly experienced guides. All of the above
are of course the agency’s summer activies, as are picnics
by the river, but in the winter they up sticks to Bovec for the
ski season, dealing primarily in ski renting, service and also
a ski/ snowboard school.
Where to Eat in Kobarid
Hiša Franko Staro Selo 1, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 389
EDEN Slovenia
the expensive side but for good reason; cod platter, shellfish
and lobster here are all memorable and exceptionally fresh.
The waiting staff are attentive, reflecting their pride at being
a member of the Kobarid Gastronomic Circle. A pleasant
terrace is perfect for the warm summer months, and the
Hotel Hvala is attached should you wish to prolong your
stay. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. AUB
Tolmin
41 20, fax +386 (0)5 389 41 29, [email protected],
www.hisafranko.com. Roundly regarded by gourmands,
amateur foodies, tourists and locals alike as one of best
restaurants in the country, it’s not uncommon for diners to
make the trip to Slovenia for the express purpose of eating
here - especially for neighbouring Italians, who can appreciate
top quality cuisine like few others. Run by a husband and wife
team, Ana is in charge of the kitchen, while Valter’s knowledge
of Slovenian wines and cheeses is unrivalled. Set in a rustic
villa outside the town of Kobarid in the far west of the country,
a meal here will not soon be forgotten. Rooms are also available. Q Open Wed-Sun 12:00-15:00 (last orders at 12:30)
and 19:00-23:00 (last orders at 22:00), and Tues evening in
the summer. Closed Mon and Tues. PALBW
The most famous time of year in Tolmin is festival season,
when for a couple of weeks in July and August the city, actually more like a town or village, is given up to thousands of
revellers. Metalcamp is held on the banks of the magnificent
turquoise Soča, a true (hedonistic) paradise at that time of
year. However, they are by no means the only reason people
come to Tolmin, the cultural and administrative centre of the
region. Lying in the awesome Soča Valley, it is a great place
to start your sports/adventure holiday as everything from
rafting, kayaking, mountain biking, hiking and paragliding is
all within easy reach. Tolmin is also culturally rich, and among
other events, every September an annual festival sees
teams compete to lovingly prepare the best ‘Frika’, a traditional dish of potatoes and locally-made Tolminc cheese.
Restavracija Kotlar Trg Svobode 11, Kobarid, tel.
+386 (0)5 389 11 10/+386 (0)51 397 978, kotlar.
[email protected], www.kotlar.si. A hint of the sea is
to be found in the Alps, specifically at Kotlar in the centre of
Kobarid. A restaurant in the conventional sense of the word,
there’s an elegant ambience that’s best enjoyed after dark.
For dinner, whether it be romantic or celebratory in essence,
the specialities include a mixed seafood entree, karst ham
with mushrooms, grilled crab and of course the local delicacy,
Kobarid ‘štruklji’. After dinner some immediate relaxation may
be in order; rooms with breakfast are available, as is a Turkish
sauna/solarium. One of Slovenia’s best restaurants. PJA
What to See in Tolmin
Restavracija Topli Val Trg Svobode 1, Kobarid, tel.
The so-called Bear’s Head of the Tolmin Gorges, photo by
Matevž Lenarčič
The Memorial Church of the Holy Spirit at Javorca, photo Janko Humar
+386 (0)5 389 93 00, [email protected], www.hotelhvala.si. Essential dining for those who love their fish, the Topli
Val is one of the finest seafood restaurants in the country. On
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Tolmin Gorges (Tolminska Korita) Tel. +386 (0)5
380 04 80, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 83, info@lto-sotocje.
si, www.visit-soca.com. The spleandour of a thermal spring
and confluence of two tourquoise rivers, not to mention much
more, have been arranged for your average non-hiking type
in the form of a ‘secured’ circular trail. Although the path also
takes you over the 60m Devil’s Bridge, we are assured the
attraction is ideal for families. Perhaps it is indeed especially
good for young boys with adventure in mind. Also watch out
for Dante’s Cave (shelter for the famous Italian poet Dante
Alighieri) and the rock in the shape of a bear’s head. Q The
starting point (parking area) can be reached from Tolmin via
Zatolmin by car or on foot (2 km). The gorge is open from
April-November. Admission is €4 for adults with discounts
for children, pensioners, students and groups.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Memorial Church of the Holy Spirit in Javorca A
wooden church and shrine the Austro-Hungarian soldiers
lost in the first world war on the Tolmin battlefield, Javorca
is perched above the Tolminka stream. It also happens to
be the finest WWI monument in all of Slovenia, having been
bequethed with the European Cultural Heritage sign in 2007.
There’s that ever present Slovene scene-scape to be admired
if nothing else, green hill plus church plus rocky mountain
backdrop; we personally can’t get enough.
Where to Eat in Tolmin
Gostilna Skrt Most na Soči 62, Most na Soči, tel. +386
(0)5 388 70 25/+386 (0)41 520 989, rajko.skrt@gmail.
com, www.facebook.com/gostilna.Skrt. Something of a
pillar of the community, Skrt (the surname of the proprietor)
sits above the Soča/Idrijca confluence in the lovely village of
Most Na Soči. In summer you may well find a throng of locals
enjoying a drink on the terrace, but in all seasons good old
Slovene hospitality can be enjoyed here. The interior is simple
and rustic, maintianed with care. Serving breakfast through
dinner, a standard array of Slovene and European dishes
(including vegetarian options, and pancakes!) are prepared
with love and accompanied by Brda wines. Located in the
heart of the village, by the hand-painted sign and street
map. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. JAB
Italian Charnel House near Kobarid, photo by Željko Cimprič,
Archive Fundacija Poti Miru
2012/13
47
48
Soča Valley
Where to Sleep Bovec
Hotels
Hotel Alp Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 48, tel. +386 (0)5 388
40 00, [email protected], www.alp-hotel.si.Q 218 beds.
PJHAULBKDC hhh
Hotel Sanje ob Soči Mala Vas 105a, tel. +386 (0)5 389
60 00/+386 (0)31 303 131, valentina@sanjeobsoci.
com, www.sanjeobsoci.com. Q 55 beds.
Guest House
Martinov Hram Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 27, tel. +386
(0)5 388 62 14, fax +386 (0)5 389 63 69, sara.berginc@
gmail.com, www.martinov-hram.si. Q 28 beds.
Apartments
Alpha center Dvor 41a, tel./fax +386 (0)5 389 60 16,
Soča Valley
Apartma Rozi Brdo 40, tel. +386 (0)41 21 93 45, rozi.
[email protected]. Q 15 beds.
Počitniška Hišica Na Biru Gabrje 10, tel. +386 (0)51
310 365, [email protected], www.nabiru.
si. Q 6 beds.
Domačija Škvor Robidišče 10, Breginj, tel. +386 (0)31
345 958, [email protected], robidisce.blogspot.
com. Q 21 beds.
D-D Čezsoča 63, tel. +386 (0)41 74 78 40, darinkavs@
gmail.com, www.apartma-dd.si. Q 3 beds.
Počitniška Hiška Tinca Most na Soči 62, Most na
Soči, tel. +386 (0)5 388 70 25/+386 (0)41 520 989,
[email protected], www.facebook.com/tinca.
mostnasoci. Q 6 beds.
Počitniška Hiša Ivančič Drežniške Ravne 30b, tel.
+386 (0)5 384 86 40/+386 (0)41 337 403, apartmaji.
[email protected], www.apartmaji-ivancic.si. Q 10 beds.
Ktrenč Mala Vas 53, tel. +386 (0)5 388 66 88/+386
Privatne Sobe Černilogar Brunov Drevored 34, tel.
Apartment Dana Kot 33, tel. +386 (0)41 23 43 87,[email protected], www.apartmadana.com. Q 15 beds.
(0)41 57 93 56, [email protected], www.bovec.
net/apartmajiktrenc. Q 10 beds.
Stari Kovač Rupa 3, tel. +386 (0)5 388 66 99/+386
(0)41 64 64 27, [email protected], www.starikovac.
com. Q 24 beds.
Camping
Kamp Polovnik Ledina 8, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)5 389
+386 (0)5 388 14 03/+386 (0)31 607 234, [email protected]. Q 6 beds.
Camps
Camp Gabrje Volarje 57, tel. +386 (0)40 153 490,
Tourist Farms
Jelenov Breg Pod Matajurjem Avsa 22, tel. +386
Turistična Kmetija Pri Kafolu Prapetno 15, tel. +386
Apartmaji Bovška Hiša Kot 2, tel. +386 (0)5 388 60
32/+386 (0)31 263 632, [email protected], www.
bovec-sc.si. Q 6+2 beds. JW
Kamp Soča Soča 8, tel. +386 (0)5 388 93 18/+386
(0)31 82 44 86, [email protected]. Q Camping €6 per
Where to Sleep Kobarid
person, apartments €50. TLBDW
Hotels
Apartmaji JOJO Rupa 7a, tel. +386 (0)5 389 64
Pension and Camp Klin Lepena 1, Soča, tel. +386 (0)5
388 95 13, [email protected]. ABKD
Hotel Hvala Trg Svobode 1, tel. +386 (0)5 389 93
00, [email protected], www.hotelhvala.si. Q 61 beds.
Apartmaji Komac Klanc 10, tel. +386 (0)5 388 62
Where to Sleep Tolmin
Guesthouses
Apartments
Hiša Franko Staro Selo 1, tel. +386 (0)5 389 41 20,
[email protected], www.hisafranko.com. Q 26 beds.
07/+386 (0)41 91 02 80, [email protected], www.
apartmaji.komac.si. Q10 beds.
Apartmaji Makuc Klanc 15, tel. +386 (0)5 388 67
80/+386 (0)41 66 32 73, [email protected], www.
apartmaji-makuc.si. Q 5 + 2 beds.
Apartmaji Mavrič Majda Dvor 61, tel. +386 (0)5 303
52 25/+386 (0)40 55 98 82, [email protected],
www.apartments-mavric.com. Q 8 beds.
Apartmaji Mrakič Dvor 53, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)41
Apartmaji Mengore Volče 140b, tel. +386 (0)41 427
386, [email protected], mengore.com. Q 16 beds.
Apartmajska Hiša Blazar Volarje 48a, tel. +386 (0)31
529 946, [email protected], www.blazar.si. Q 14 beds.
Apartma Kavčič Poljubinj 24m, tel. +386 (0)5 381
17 33/+386 (0)41 692 299, [email protected],
www.apartma-kavcic.si. Q 12 beds.
32 91 74, [email protected], www.mrakic.net.
3 nights. PJALW
Apartmaji Skok Mala Vas 111, tel. +386 (0)5 389 63
00/+386 (0)41 32 86 29, fax +386 (0)5 389 63 01,
[email protected], www.apartmajiskok.com.
Q 22 beds.
06/+386 (0)31 70 61 11, fax +386 (0)5 896 20 7,
[email protected]. Q 18 beds.
Conference Centres
Stergulc House Tel. +386 (0)5 389 64 44, info@
EDEN Slovenia
Picerija Fedrig Volaričeva 11, tel. +386 (0)5 389 01
15/+386 (0)31 249 147, [email protected]. Q 15 beds.
Restavracija Kotlar Trg Svobode 11, tel. +386 (0)5
389 11 10/+386 (0)51 397 978, kotlar.restavracija@
siol.net, www.kotlar.si. Q 15 beds.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Turistična Kmetija Kranjc Koseč 7, tel. +386 (0)5
384 85 62/+386 (0)41 946 088, info@turizem-kranjc.
si, www.turizem-kranjc.si. Q 20 beds.
Turistična Kmetija Robidišče Robidišče 3, Breginj,
tel. +386 (0)5 384 85 8/+386 (0)41 332 668, kmetija@
robidisce.si, www.robidisce.si. Q 7 beds.
Directory
Društvo za prosto letenje POSOČJE Dijaška
12c, Tolmin, tel. (+386) 41 966 367, kobala.info@
gmail.com, www.kobala.si.
Ustanova “Fundacija Poti miru v Posočju”
Gregorčečeva ulica 8, Kobarid, tel. (+386) 53 89 01 67/
(+386) 31 586 296, [email protected], www.potmiru.si.
Casino
Igralniško-Zabaviščni Center Aurora Staro Selo
60a, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 388 45 00, info.aurora@
hit.si, www.aurora-hitstars.si.
Sports Agencies
Apartments
641 899, info@a2rafting, www.a2rafting.eu.
Apartma Berginc Drežniške Ravne 42, tel. +386 (0)5
Agencija Metulj Cankarjeva 8, Tolmin, tel. +386
Apartma pri Koptanhu Drežnica 45, tel. +386 (0)5
384 85 05/+386 (0)31 599 480, apartma.koptanh@
gmail.com, www.apartmaji-dreznica.com. Q 4 beds.
Alpin Action Trnovo ob Soči 26a, Kobarid, tel. +386
(0)5 384 55 04/+386 (0)41 708 132, alpin.action@
siol.net, www.sloveniarafting.si.
Apartma-Ra Gregorčičeva 6c, tel. +386 (0)41 641 899,
[email protected], www.a2rafting.eu. Q21 beds.
Transport
Apartma Šavli Magozd 5a, tel. +386 (0)5 389 37
[email protected], www.jojo-prevozi.com.
07/+386 (0)41 421 007, [email protected], www.
apartmasavli.com. Q6 beds.
Rafting on the Soča river, photo by Andraž Krpič, Archive
LTO Bovec
(0)41 494 560, [email protected], www.
jelenov-breg-pod-matajurjem.si. Q 6 beds.
36/+386 (0)41 494 565, [email protected],
users.volja.net/lowriz. Q 11 beds.
389 37 08/+386 (0)31 370 133, berginc.bogdan@
yahoo.com, www.apartma-berginc.si. Q 10 beds.
Apartmaji Tajčr Brdo 44, tel. +386 (0)5 389 62
bovec.si, www.bovec.si. Run by the Bovec tourist
board, this antiquated bourgeois residence is a good
alternative option for conferences, seminars or weddings. Whilst there are modern additions to ensure one’s
comfort, specifically a lift, bar and two conference rooms
(70 or 100 delegates), the house is packed with old
stories which you can pour over in the museum.
Nebesa Turistične Hiše Livek 39, tel. +386 (0)5 384
46 20, [email protected], www.nebesa.si. Q 8 beds.
Sobe pri Lovrižu Drežnica 22, tel. +386 (0)5 384 86
Q 6 apartments €50-130, 30% more for stays of less than
Kamp Koren Drežniške Ravne 33, tel. +386 (0)5 389
13 11, [email protected], www.kamp-koren.si.
Tourist Farms
(0)41 618 698, [email protected], www.prikafolu.
com. Q 20 beds.
70/+386 (0)41 88 09 06, fax +386 (0)5 389 64 71,
[email protected], www.joffitours.com. Q 12 beds.
Camps
[email protected], www.camp-gabrje.com.
60 07/+386 (0)31 34 44 17, [email protected],
www.kamp-polovnik.com. Q €5.25-8/person, tents €1-2,
or caravans €3. A
tel. +386 (0)31 33 52 35, [email protected], www.
apartmaji-alpha.si. Q 4 + 4 beds.
Žonir Staro Selo 57, tel. +386 (0)5 389 30 20/+386 (0)41
686 997, [email protected], users.volja.net/zonir57. Q6 beds.
Chalet Kamp Koren Kobarid Drežniške Ravne 33,
tel. +386 (0)5 389 13 11/+386 (0)41 371 229, info@
kamp-koren.si, www.kamp-koren.si. Q 36 beds.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
A2rafting Volaričeva 15, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)41
(0)5 381 00 10/+386 (0)51 411 944, metulj@siol.
net, www.agencija-metulj.com.
Jojo Prevozi Dvor 5, tel. +386 (0)41 880 906,
Tourist Agencies
Ta Tmin Tours Trg 1. Maja 8, Tolmin, tel. +386 (0)5
381 19 93, [email protected], www.tmintours.si.
2012/13
49
EDEN 2008: The Soča Valley
TIC Bovec
Tel.: +386 (0)5 38 96 444
E-mail: [email protected]
www.dolina-soce.si
EDEN 2009: The Solčavsko region
The Rinka Centre – the Solčava Tourist
Information Centre
Tel.: +386 (0)3 83 90 710
E-mail: [email protected]
www.solcavsko.info
Bovec
EDEN 2010: The Kolpa River
RIC Bela krajina
Tel.: +386 (0)7 30 56 530
E-mail: [email protected]
www.kolpariver.eu
EDEN 2011: Idrija
TIC Idrija
Tel.: +386 (0)5 37 43 916
E-mail: [email protected]
www.idrija-turizem.si
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