Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text THE EXHIBITS “Nevada’s Basin and Range topography has created a magnificent wilderness. The people, plants, and animals have all dealt with the challenging and extreme Nevada environments in amazing ways. The character of all life in Nevada and the demands of the land are inextricably entwined.” 1. ENTRY PORTAL “ DUSK TO DAWN” 2. THE LAND THE LANDSCAPE Nevada: The Land Beyond the bright city lights that most visitors see lie the vast stretches of arid land that form Nevada. Desert valleys alternating with long, high mountain ranges define huge tracts of the nation’s seventh largest state. This repeating geography is characteristic of the geologic Basin and Range province that extends from Oregon through Arizona to Mexico. Nevada is also the heart of the Great Basin--an area of the West where rivers and streams do not drain to the sea. Except for two areas, the Snake River drainage in the north and the Colorado River area in the southeast, rivers and streams in Nevada either evaporate or sink into the desert. Nevada’s unique landscape of mountainous terrain and disappearing water has shaped both the biology of the land and the history of the people who settled it. Great Adaptations Animals and plants in the desert face extreme stress caused by lack of water, and their adaptations to high evaporation rates during dry seasons are seen in habitats throughout the state. Plants have developed a host of strategies to conserve water. Waxy or hairy leaves reduce evaporation. Fleshy leaves or stems provide storage. Extensive roots make the most of water that disappears as fast as it arrives. Animals often recycle water internally and have behaviors, such as burrowing, that keep them out of the worst conditions. At the other extreme are wet environments. Trees that live near springs, lakes, or washes can move enormous amounts of water through their leaves. Amphibians, insects, and fish often appear in large numbers where water is permanent, many of them restricted to specific places. John Steinbeck expressed well the challenges to life in Nevada: “The desert, the dry and sun-lashed desert, is a good school in which to observe the cleverness and the infinite variety of techniques of survival under pitiless opposition.” 1 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text Nevada’s Nightlife Beside a desert spring on a summer evening, the buzzing of cicadas is gradually replaced by calls of the red-spotted toad. A pipistrelle bat flutters low to feast on water-bred insects. We creatures of the day repel the desert heat and sun with air conditioners. Many desert dwellers find that living at night is a better answer. Higher humidity, calmer winds, and cooler temperatures make water stress lower at night. Good night vision, sharp hearing, or exceptional senses of smell help night dwellers navigate. Desert animals abroad during the day are usually active in the morning and evening. These animals often burrow or have body chemistry to help them survive hot desert days. The Mojave and Great Basin Deserts The word desert may bring images of vast Basin Deserts rolling sand dunes or cactus against the sky, but neither of these images apply to the two deserts that occupy the valleys of Nevada. The Mojave Desert, characterized by creosote bushes and Joshua Trees, covers the southern tip of Nevada and extends into California and Arizona. In this low, warm desert most of the precipitation is in the winter, but there are also monsoon rains in the summer— when temperatures consistently soar over 100 degrees from May until October. The Great Basin Desert, home of vast stretches of sagebrush, occupies central and northern Nevada and parts of Utah, California, Oregon, and Wyoming. This is a cold, high desert and most of the water falls in the form of snow. Low shrubs are the hallmark of this desert, the exact plants varying from place to place. Butterflies and Plants: Are They Connected? All plants depend on just the right soil, water, temperature, and altitude to thrive. Nevada’s landscape is a complex mosaic of these factors—and so is the distribution of the plants and the animals that depend on them. Butterflies rely on finding the plants they need to feed on or use as egg-laying sites. The caterpillar stage of every butterfly is adapted to live on a particular plant or group of plants, and often the adult requires nectar or egg-laying sites of a specific plant species as well. Some butterflies, such as Painted Ladies, feed on many plants and occur all over the world. Others, such as the Mount Charleston Shasta Blue, feed only on one particular plant. and are limited to small areas. SPECIES AND SURVIVAL Who Survives? Who Thrives? Every plant and animal is adapted to the specific environment it calls home. Kangaroo rats conserve water so well, they never drink, filling all of their needs from the plants and seeds they eat. Saltbushes exude excess salt they absorb from the soil. Joshua Trees rely on nightflying moths for pollination. This finely tuned web of life is easily disrupted. Natural events such as fires, drought, and floods can affect individual animals or plants, and changes in their frequency can have an impact on the entire habitat. Human disturbances can have a much broader effect by introducing foreign species. For example, tamarisk was brought in as an ornamental plant. Its deep roots absorb much of the available water and can dry up springs and seasonal streams—removing a resource vital to the survival of other plants and the animals that depend on them. 2 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text Endangered: What Does it Mean? An endangered plant or animal species is one that has become so scarce it is in danger of becoming extinct. A species can become endangered in several ways. The most common is the loss of habitat. As the number of people expands in the West, more and more animals and plants lose the areas in which they live. Changes in climate also cause extinctions, a factor that may be more notable in the future as the climate warms. Introduced species can also cause problems, either competing with or preying on species that already occur in one habitat. Many plant and animal species in Nevada are vulnerable because they occur in restricted areas. So Many Unique Species To eyes used to green forests, Nevada may seem a monotonous land, yet nearly 4,000 plant and animal species live here, 209 found nowhere else. Animals depend on plants, and the many soil, altitude, and rainfall variations in the state assure a wide variety of both. Plant zones change as elevation increases from valley floor to mountaintop. Pinyon-juniper woodlands replace deserts, then pine forests, fir forests and finally tundra on the highest peaks. Unusual communities, such as living crusts on bare soils, add to the interesting diversity of life in Nevada. The Story of Nevada’s Horses Although timelessly linked with Western lore, today’s horses are not native to North America and were introduced from Europe in the 16th century. The horse family, however, evolved in North America from dog-size forest dwellers that lived here 55 million years ago. Of the many different kinds of horses that developed and thrived, only those that specialized for living in grasslands survived until the present day. When the most recent ice age ended about 10,000 years ago, the last horses in North America became extinct, but their relative, reintroduced from Europe and Asia, thrives in Nevada as the wild mustang. CLIMATE OF EXTREMES Hot and Dry Walking from air conditioning into the stunning heat of a southern Nevada summer brings home one aspect of Nevada’s extreme climate—temperature. In addition to absolute high and low temperatures, the range from day to night is often very wide. Nevada is also the driest state: Average annual rainfall is only 9 inches. The Sierra Nevada mountains on the western edge of the state capture the Pacific storms and dry out the air before it reaches Nevada. Precipitation varies from 40 inches near Lake Tahoe to barely 3 inches on the southern border. Precipitation is strongly seasonal. Spring flushes of green and wildflowers in the deserts and mountains accent the brief availability of water before long, dry seasons. Some fun Nevada climate facts: Record high temperature: 125 at Laughlin 1994 Record Low temperature: -50 at San Jacinto 1937 Snowiest season in Reno: 1915–1916—82 feet Driest year in Reno: 2.04” in 2001 3 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text High Temp: 125 at Laughlin in 1994 Low Temp: -50 at San Jacinto in 1937 Record Snow in Reno: 82 feet in 1915-1916 Record Driest Year in Reno: 2.04 inches in 2001 Why Does it Grow Here? Soil Soil influences plant distribution through chemistry and texture, and plants are often very specific in their requirements. Desert soils, for example, are usually alkaline and can also be salty or contain gypsum. Soils can be rocky or full of fine clay. Junipers grow only in rocky soil, and the Las Vegas Bear Poppy grows only on soil high in gypsum. Temperature Plants have general adaptations to live in areas with high or low temperatures. For example, some plants go dormant in the winter so freezing temperatures don’t stress roots. Other plants have small waxy leaves to keep water from evaporating in hot, dry weather, Rainfall Precipitation—the total of rainfall and snow—is probably the most important influence on plants. Pinyon pines that normally live in a broad area above 7,000 feet will occur along streams to much lower elevations—they need at least 8 inches of water a year to survive. Elevation Generally, the higher the elevation, the lower the temperature. Rainfall usually also increases with elevation, as the cooler air causes rain or snow to form in humid air. Seasonality The timing of flowers and growth are usually tuned to occur during wet seasons. Throughout Nevada, temperature and rainfall are strongly seasonal, and water conservation is the rule. Unique Habitats While major habitats in the state cover wide bands of territory, some smaller, restricted habitats are common. Plants and animals living in these areas must meet special challenges. Salty, alkali soils of dry lake beds, shifting sand dune surfaces, inconstant desert streams, fragile desert crust communities, and isolated mountain tops each have animals and plants adapted to their unique conditions. The richness of the biology in the state is a reflection of the mosaic of conditions throughout Nevada. What do Tree Rings Tell Us? The climate over the past 100,000 years has been closely studied, in part because of interest in global warming. Scientists seek many clues about past climates and study sediment layers in lakes, ice cores, pollen samples, pack rat nests, and cave formations. The study of tree rings, or dendrochronology, is one method often used in the Southwest. The growth of a tree in any year depends on the rain that falls. Each year trees grow an area of dense winter wood and light summer wood. A wet year shows a wide ring and a narrow year a dry one. Living and dead Bristlecone Pine trees, which can live thousands of years, have been used to chronicle 10,000 years of wet and dry seasons. 4 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text THE GEOLOGIC STORY The Evidence Surprisingly, Nevada has been under water or oceanfront property throughout most of geologic time. About 650 million years ago, Australia and Antarctica, which had been off the coast of Nevada, rifted away, leaving a shallow sea. Sea levels rose and fell over the next 400 million years, creating shallow ocean limestones and deepwater shales. (These limestones can be easily seen in the mountains around Las Vegas.) Beginning about 350 million years ago, islands were repeatedly welded to the shore of Nevada and pulled away again by the movement of the Earth’s tectonic plates. Shallow seas developed around them-our state fossil, an ichthyosaur, swam in one of these seas. From 250 to 66 million years ago, the state slowly dried out from east to west and became higher land. Two hundred million years ago a huge desert formed in southern Nevada, leaving behind the colorful Aztec sandstone. Sixty-five million years ago, outpourings of volcanic ash covered much of the state. Tectonic forces welded California, Oregon and Washington to the West Coast. Then, about 30 million years ago, the processes began that created the basin and range geology of steep mountains and flat valleys. Geologic History Exposed Across Nevada, long, parallel mountain ranges march like caterpillars headed north. Flat basins between them fill with rock, gravel, and sand eroded from the mountains. Within the last 30 million years, the earth’s crust under Nevada has thinned and bulged upward, slowly stretching to become nearly twice its original length. As it thinned, large blocks broke and tilted, forming the mountains and valleys we see today. Although the exact mechanism is still uncertain, the tectonic forces producing the San Andreas fault and the Baja peninsula have also created this geology. Evidence All Around Us Scientists and students from all over the world come to study the complex geology of Nevada, which is not hidden by plants and soil as it is elsewhere. Many of the basic principles and processes of geology such as erosion and faulting can be easily seen here. Circular lakes and the moraines of glaciers dot the high mountains. Deposits of broken rock near Alamo in eastern Nevada give evidence of a major meteor strike in a shallow sea. Examples of sedimentary, igneous, and metamorphic rocks are all widespread in Nevada as well as a tremendous diversity of fossils. Geology and Mining the “Silver” State The nickname “Silver State” declares the importance of mining to the economy of Nevada. Frequent episodes of volcanism throughout geologic history have produced precious metal ores across the state. Gold production in Nevada is the third largest in the world behind Australia and South Africa. Sedimentary rocks, plentiful in eastern Nevada, have been 5 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text mined for gypsum, sand, and limestone. Metamorphic rocks such as marble have also been occasionally mined. PALEO LIFE What is a fossil? Fossils are remains or traces of animals or plants that lived in the past. Sometimes parts of the original organism are preserved, but more often bones and tissues are replaced by minerals that seep into the remains over time. Footprints of long-dead animals can be preserved as fossils as are impressions of leaves and twigs. Even animal poop has been fossilized! Because the remains must stay intact long enough to be replaced with rock, a fossil must be quickly buried in mud, dirt, or ash where it will not decay. Nevada: 10,000 Years Ago During the last ice age, which ended about 10,000 years ago, two large lakes, Lahonton in the west and Bonneville in the east, covered central Nevada. Lush forests grew down to the edge of the valleys. These valleys were mixtures of grasslands, marshes, springs, and wet meadows supporting herds of large animals. Columbian Mammoths, horses, camels, extinct bison, ground sloths, large cats, and many other animals roamed across the state. A similar environment can be found today in Yellowstone National Park. How Old Is It? In geology, rocks are dated in three different ways. Unless disturbed by later movement, the youngest layers of sedimentary rocks are on the top, the oldest on the bottom—this is called superposition. Younger bands of igneous rock often intrude into sedimentary rock, forced by heat and pressure into these layers. A second form of dating is fossil correlation. Fossils that occur across wide areas indicate the rocks they are found in were laid down at the same time. To give an absolute date for rocks, radioactive dating is used. The ratios of elements in radioactive rocks tell how long ago the rock was formed. This can only be used to date igneous rocks, so layers of ash deposited among sedimentary layers are often used for absolute time. SOLUTION CAVE What is a “Solution” Cave? Caves form when rain water, made acid by carbon dioxide in the soil, dissolves spaces in limestone as it moves through cracks in the rocks. These channels can eventually form large chambers. If the water table drops, the caves dry out and groundwater dripping slowly into these emptied caves may form beautiful decorations called speleothems. Caves can also be dissolved into gypsum or sandstone if these rocks are cemented by carbonates. Nearly 200 caves occur in central and eastern Nevada, dissolved into limestone or gypsum that was deposited in ancient seas. One example is Lehman Cave in Great Basin National Park, which is rich in limestone formations. Animal bones and artifacts of ancient peoples who found 6 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text shelter in caves give us important information about past environments. Who Lives Here? The bottom of the food chain in most caves is poop! Although people think of bats as the most important inhabitants of caves, they are just visitors, along with rodents and occasional larger animals. Their waste provides food for beetles, millipedes, amphipods, fungus gnats, and many other insects, which in turn are eaten by such carnivores as scorpions and spiders. Fish, crawfish, and salamanders often live in caves containing pools of water. New cave species with fascinating adaptations are frequently found as more caves are studied. Fluorescent Minerals A rock is fluorescent if it shows a visible color when lit with ultraviolet light, which has wavelengths that are normally too long for our eyes to see. More than 500 different minerals are known to fluoresce, many in several colors depending on impurities. Calcite, for example, is red or pink if it contains lead or green if it contains uranium. Some very dull rocks look spectacular under ultraviolet light. Cave Trivia What is the longest cave in Nevada? The Baker Creek Cave system in White Pine County is 1.7 miles long. Which grows from the ceiling—a stalactite or a stalagmite? Stalactites grow from the ceiling, stalagmites grow on the ground. What kinds of bats live by the millions in caves all over the west? Mexican Free-Tailed Bats. What do the bats in Nevada eat? All of the bats that live in Nevada eat insects. What cave is open to the public in Nevada? Lehman Cave in Great Basin National Park. In what kind of rocks does most caves form? Sedimentary rock—limestone, dolomite, gypsum, or sandstone. Mined Minerals You probably live in a house with walls made of sedimentary rock! Gypsum, a mineral formed in evaporating seas, is mined and used to make wallboard. Other sedimentary rocks mined in Nevada include sand, gravel, borax, limestone, and barite. Why So Precious? Most of the precious metal ores in Nevada were formed by hot fluids circulating through fissures in volcanic rocks. Changes in temperature, pressure, or chemistry caused minerals to be deposited along cracks forming veins of minerals, sometimes in beautiful crystal 7 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text deposits. This wall represents a section of ore-bearing volcanic rock. The specimens show an array of minerals from different areas of Nevada. Gold, silver, and copper have been the source of much of Nevada’s mining wealth and are used for everything from money and jewelry to dental products and electronics. These three metals are useful because they are easy to shape and conduct electricity. 3. THE PEOPLE FIRST PEOPLES Nevada’s First Peoples When European American explorers entered (focus on Northern present-day Nevada, Southern Paiute, Western Paiute + other Shoshone, and Northern Paiute Indians occupied tribal groups) most of the state. The Washoe tribe occupied a small territory centered on Lake Tahoe. These groups were hunters and gathers that traveled throughout their territories harvesting seasonally available plants and game. With the discovery of the Comstock Lode, European American settlement of western Nevada excluded Northern Paiutes from village sites and pinyon groves within their homeland. This clash between Native and European Americans threatened the very survival of Northern Paiute culture. White people will come like the sand in a whirlwind and drive you from your homes. (Numaga, Northern Paiute, 1860) Through persistence, Nevada’s Native American cultures survived wars, treaties, reservations, and boarding schools where native languages were banned. Today, Native Americans contribute to the state’s expanding economy as an integral part of Nevada’s diverse population. Native Dwellings Much of our information about prehistoric Native Americans comes from caves and rock shelters, which were used mainly for storage and only occasionally occupied. Prehistoric and historic Native Americans typically lived in single-family brush-, grass-, or tule-covered, pole-framed huts or within simple windbreaks. The first evidence of Native Americans in Nevada comes from Tule Springs and Smith Creek Cave, which were used about 12,000 years ago. Over the millennia, Indians hunted and gathered food, developing strategies to cope with Nevada’s extreme and variable climate. Secondary label if fits; delete if not: Ancestral Puebloans, formerly known as the Anasazi, occupied southern Nevada between about A.D. 500 and 1200. These semi-sedentary farmers occupied multiple room adobe structures in a series of settlements known as “Lost City” and cultivated corn, beans, and squash. Ancestral Puebloans probably abandoned Lost City’ because of cultural stresses brought about by climate change. Basket Makers Mobile groups such as the Washoe wove baskets from local plants, using these lightweight containers for food gathering, cooking, and other functions. Willow water bottles were sealed with red clay and pine pitch. Cradleboards sported sunshades shielding infants from the desert sun. Manufactured vessels replaced utilitarian baskets, but the Arts and Crafts Movement (ca. 1890–1930) encouraged a resurgence of Native American basket making. 8 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text These woven works evolved into decorative pieces that appealed to collectors. Renowned Washoe basketmaker Dat-So-La-Lee (ca. 1829–1925) achieved national recognition for her “ceremonial” degikup baskets. The degikup may be modeled after California Pomo Indian baskets, but Dat-So-La-Lee, experimented with this shape and placement of designs to create her distinctive works. EXPLORERS & TRAILBLAZERS - Early Arrivals: Trappers & Traders Fashion trends first brought other people to this and Traders (mountain men, part of the world. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Spanish friars, demand for beaver hats could barely be satisfied. trappers, traders) Rough fur trappers called “mountain men” came west well in advance of any American settlers. By 1826 they scoured the streams of what we now call Nevada. They pioneered routes through mountains and deserts and proved the Great Basin could be crossed. By the 1830s, fashions changed, and over-trapping had decimated the beaver population. The mountain men era faded away. One trapper wrote “Come, we are done with life in mountains, done with wading in beaver dams, freezing or starving, done with Indian trading and fighting….Let us go down and take farms.” Fremont The Map Maker Nevada was the last area of the lower 48 states to be mapped and understood. What is now Nevada was Mexican territory from 1821 until 1848, when it was ceded to the United States at the end of the U.S.-Mexican War (1846-1848). Early explorers had no maps; they followed ancient animal trails and Native American paths. The routes followed such water sources as the Humboldt and Colorado rivers. John C. Frémont explored throughout the West and was the first to map the Great Basin. He was the first to realize the Great Basin drains internally, with no outlet to the sea. On one 1844 trip Frémont camped at the Las Vegas Springs, and his report of that day is the first published record of Las Vegas. Las Vegas was now “on the map.” Trail Blazers In 1776, while American colonists declared their independence from England, two Spanish expeditions searched for routes between New Mexico and California. Father Francisco Garces (1738–1781) traveled along the Colorado River; another expedition mapped parts of Utah. Fifty years later a bold New Yorker, Jedediah Smith (1799–1831), came west in search of furs. He linked the two Spanish explorations, and the “Old Spanish Trail” was born. Soon, Mexican traders led pack trains from Santa Fe to California. An offshoot came through the Las Vegas Valley, following artesian springs In the north, Peter Skene Ogden of the Hudson’s Bay Company discovered the Humboldt River while looking for beaver pelts in the 1820s. He could not have dreamt that the river would soon become an important pathway for thousands heading west. Surviving Nevada’s Trails Getting through the Great Basin was the most (Humboldt; Old dangerous part of the journey west. Pioneers Spanish Trail and often faced little water, no grass for their animals, 9 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text hardships, water, difficulties with natives, the blazing heat of the etc.) desert, and the frigid snows of the mountains. The Bartleson-Bidwell party of 1841 showed that emigrants could get to California via the Great Basin. The famous and tragic Donner Party of 1846– 47 suffered from bad luck and poor choices along the way, culminating with reports of cannibalism among the group. Their experiences dampened emigration for a while. Exciting news of California gold discoveries overcame the bad publicity about traveling and soon thousands of Americans packed up and headed west, mostly along the Humboldt River route. An epic moment for America had begun. “The road was white with bones of oxen and horse, the desert was one prodigious graveyard.” (Mark Twain) SETTLERS & MINERS Nevada Settlers Nevada was the last part of the country that (first miners, Americans settled. Travelers passed through as traders, prospectors quickly as they could. Members of the Church and homesteaders, of the Latter-day Saints (Mormon Church) built etc.) settlements and trading posts to serve emigrants headed to California gold fields. When vast silver deposits were found at the Comstock Lode in 1859, thousands of prospectors, ranchers, investors, and laborers came to the area to try their luck. The rich silver deposits shortly led to territorial status for Nevada and separation from the Utah Territory in 1861. Overland Wagons Secondary The famous Conestoga wagon was too big and heavy for the trails west, killing even the sturdiest oxen. Smaller wagons worked better, used on trails using four to six oxen or six to ten mules. Mules were faster, but oxen had more stamina. Early emigrants packed too heavily. Tools, books, and stoves littered the land, thrown away to save the animals. Items filling the wagons included flour, dried fruit, beans, sugar, coffee, bacon, toys, dishes, and washtubs. What would you have taken? Who Came to Stay? Although it was the immensely rich silver (support industries deposits that brought miners to Nevada, they that followed mining rarely grew wealthy. Others prospered by settlers (agriculture, providing services for the miners. Ranchers, service industries) lawyers, saloon keepers, freighters, cooks, barbers, and blacksmiths were among those who were the backbone of new communities in the state, with Virginia City at the heart of the activity. Though far outnumbered by men, women made valuable contributions in many roles, including teachers, laborers, and business owners. The riches of the Comstock gave Virginia City an international flair. The dream of wealth brought Irish, Cornish, Germans, Italians, Chinese, Mexicans, and other world populations to this area, along with their customs, skills, and languages. This diversity made Virginia City a remarkable place to live. MORMONS Genoa (aka Mormon Station, 1851) and Las Vegas (1855) Escaping religious persecution in the east, Mormons founded Salt Lake City in 1847. Looking to spread its influence, the church sent men to Carson Valley in 1851. Their trading station 10 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text was the area’s first permanent settlement, feeding many hungry and tired Americans on their way to the California gold rush. Mormon (Reese’s) Station is now the town of Genoa. Further south, the church sought to settle along the Old Spanish Trail and to convert Indians. To accomplish this, an adobe fort was built at Las Vegas in 1855, the first nonIndian settlement in Las Vegas failed within two years, defeated by harsh weather, uncooperative natives, and conflicts among the missionaries. WATER TOWER The invention of steam-powered locomotives was critical in settling the American West in the 1860s. Railroad lines built water towers along importance tracks as a speedy and efficient way to renew locomotives’ water reserves. From a height above the train, men could funnel water directly into the train in just a few minutes. Water towers became a familiar sight, but with the coming of powerful diesel engines, they slowly disappeared from the Nevada landscape. 4. EARLY DAYS THE COMSTOCK LODE / MINING The Comstock: Largest Silver Strike in the World None of the early miners suspected the extent Silver Mine in the World of the Comstock silver lodes. They found gold on the surface, but had been throwing away a fortune in silver. Once the blue-grey mud was assayed at thousands of dollars a ton, the news spread worldwide. The Comstock changed everything. Only after the 1859 silver discoveries did large numbers of people come to Nevada to live. Men came back over the mountains from California, building new places such as Virginia City and Gold Hill. From the Comstock, miners fanned out to explore the remotest regions of what is now Nevada. Others followed, along with the pony express, the telegraph, and the railroad. Soon Nevada would be a new territory, then a new state. “To make money and make it fast was as easy as it was to eat your dinner.”(Mark Twain) Road to Statehood Comstock riches brought people to Nevada, but it was politics, not mineral wealth, that brought an early statehood. Born during the Civil War, Nevada Territory was carved out of Utah Territory in 1861. As a territory, taxes on mining already helped the Union, not the Confederacy. President Abraham faced reelection in 1864 and needed Nevada’s electoral votes to ensure victory. Lincoln also wanted another state to support the 13th amendment abolishing slavery. A week before the election, on October 31, 1864, Nevada became a state. Nevada Mining Impacts the World 11 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text The Comstock silver rush was a world event. Lured by promises of wealth, skilled miners came from Ireland, England (Cornwall), Germany, Mexico, Bolivia, Peru, and elsewhere. The Comstock boom set a pattern for outside ownership of Nevada’s economic assets. Underground or “lode” mining requires financing beyond the reach of individuals. Most funding came from out of state and most profit followed it out, first to Bank of California investors and later to the famed “Bonanza Firm” in the 1870s. Financial speculation ran wild in San Francisco, where a stock exchange opened, attracting capital for western mining, especially for the Comstock. Spreading news of the Comstock worldwide were journalists Dan de Quille, and Mark Twain, whose colorful stories often had some truth to them. Mining Technologies By solving two difficult problems, the Comstock became a school for miners worldwide. Experts open pit, long shaft, arrived in 1860 providing answers for both Adolph Sutro’s problems. The soft, crumbly rocks containing the silver ore collapsed on miners as they worked. German engineer Philipp Deidesheimer studied the cave-in problem and suggested a brilliantly simple solution: “square set timbering.” Heavy timbers that looked like hollow building blocks could be hooked together beside and on top of one another; this allowed more levels to be built safely. Separating the silver from the ore was more complicated. Almarin Paul’s “Washoe Pan Process” took crushed ore, added chemicals, heat, and churned the mixture in something like a modern washing machine. This improvement created large savings in time and money for mining worldwide. Chinese Workers Support the Mines As the mining and railroad towns grew, labor contractors hired more than 10,000 Chinese workers, some from other sites in the West and the rest directly from China. Although many Chinese immigrants labored on the railroads, others found work in the service industries supporting mining operations. They ran laundries and restaurants and worked as household servants. Western medicine was not as sophisticated as the centuries-old Chinese medicine, so Chinese physicians could be found in any town with a significant Chinese population and many of them served the non-Chinese population as well. Many European Americans enthusiastically endorsed the treatments that they had received and in mining communities such as Island Mountain (Elko County) all of the dwellings had evidence of Chinese medicine bottles. Geology at Work Yields Riches The amazingly rich Comstock Lode developed in a large fault between lava flows on a volcano in western Nevada. These deposits were formed near the surface during a time of active volcanism across Nevada. Hot fluids and gasses, rich in minerals, circulated through cracks in the old volcano. Changes in chemistry, pressure, and temperature near the earth’s surface caused gold and silver to be deposited in veins. The silver was discovered in bluegray sand that initially got in the way of the gold prospectors. This silver was the true wealth of the Comstock Lode. 12 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text RAILWAYS Flurry of Railroad Building After Nevada achieved statehood in 1864, railroad construction began in earnest. In 1869 the first transcontinental line was completed, linking the Central Pacific (later Southern Pacific) and Union Pacific. Other lines quickly followed: the Virginia and Truckee (1869), Eureka and Palisades (1874), Carson and Colorado (1880), San Pedro-Los Angeles-Salt Lake (1901), and more than thirty others. The railroads brought settlers and encouraged the development of permanent communities such as Reno, Winnemucca, Elko, Las Vegas, and Tonopah. These communities gave Nevada stability, unlike the boom and bust mining towns. The railroads also opened the state to trade and commerce domestically and internationally. The “Crookedest” Railroad The Comstock mine owners began construction of the Virginia and Truckee Railroad in 1869 to bring the ore from the mines to the stamp mills on the Carson River. Called the “crookedest railroad in the world,” it wrapped around the mountain and brought wood to shore the mines and other products to Carson City, Virginia City, Gold Hill, and Silver City. At the southern end of the state, another transcontinental railroad line fostered the growth and development of Las Vegas beginning in 1905. Towns along railroad lines were more permanent than most mining towns. Chinese Railroad Workers Once the transcontinental railroad was completed, many Chinese laborers worked on labor, demise of the other railroad lines through the early Chinese towns/ twentieth century. One worker, Chin Gee Hee temples, primarily (1844–1930), who was trained in Winnemucca, men) eventually went on to head China’s new national railway system. In the 1870s the Chinese settled in the railroad towns, often in segregated communities called Chinatowns. There they recreated some of the sights and sounds of their homeland, including association headquarters and temples, popularly called joss houses. Because of the 1875 Page Law that essentially prohibited Chinese women from immigrating, a maledominated society was created in these Chinatowns that lasted until the 1943 repeal of the Chinese Exclusion Act. Racial antagonism and the rise of labor unions fighting against “cheap Chinese labor” led to the passage of the 1882 Chinese Exclusion Act prohibiting the immigration of Chinese laborers. Railroads Build Communities Reno was one example of a town that developed as a major train station in1868. It became a commercial center and had the largest population in the state until it was surpassed in the 1950s by another railroad town, Las Vegas (established in 1905). Trains brought necessities and luxuries to remote places. Ice, taken on board at stations like Carlin, helped preserve fruits, vegetables, and meats. Lumber, tea, sugar, and other products from outside of the state were now readily available in many communities. Trains also brought new jobs and ways to connect the far-flung state, and railroad employees were important parts of the economic and social life of Nevada’s towns and cities. 13 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text Railroad Handcart A handcar is a railway car powered by people. When the tracks or ties needed repair a handcar was loaded with supplies and pumped out to the location. Workers would push down and pull up on the handles to activate the cart. Some handcars even had seats for passengers. BOOM TOWN / BUST TOWN Gold and Silver Towns: Boom Time The Comstock Lode brought thousands of people to Nevada, and by 1861 Virginia City, located at the mouth of the mines, had a population of 2,704. The wild and cosmopolitan mining town grew rapidly in the 1870s and 1880s until it had a population of around 20,000. The mines made millionaires, who took most of their money out of state. Miners, who were predominantly male, frequented the numerous saloons that were characteristic of all frontier towns. Virginia City declined as the mines were depleted and the price of silver dropped in the late nineteenth century. This pattern repeated itself throughout the state. As mines played out, towns were abandoned, and miners moved on to the next “big strike.” Riches to Rags: Mining Towns Go Bust Like bubbles frothing on a fast-moving stream, Nevada boom towns sprang up, grew quickly, and then vanished. With an eye to a quick buck, speculators and merchants established lavish hotels, opera houses, and saloons that rapidly deprived miners and other workers of their gains. Goldfield, for example, experienced one of the most dramatic rises and subsequent crashes of all the mining towns of the Old West. Gold was discovered in 1902. By 1906 the town’s population reached 30,000, making Goldfield the state’s biggest town. By 1908 the mine had played out, and the population dropped to 5,000 by 1910. This pattern repeated over and over again in such towns as Tonopah, Austin, Eureka, and Virginia City. While this attitude encouraged risk-taking, it also fostered an environment that did not plan for the future or the long-term good of its citizens. RANCHES AND TOWNS Why Settle Here? Starting in the1850s, Mormons settled near overland trails in western Nevada to feed California-bound emigrants. They later colonized southeastern Nevada, founding the gricultural town of Panaca in 1864. It supported the non-Mormon mining town of Pioche, a major silver producer of the 1870s. As Nevada grew, other groups settled throughout 14 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text the state. The three most important necessities for permanent settlement were, water, lumber, and transportation. Water was important for farming and ranching, as well as basic human survival, so if there were no springs or streams, settlers built irrigation ditches and dams. Roads were needed to transport products out and bring needed supplies in, and settlements were located along trails and railroad lines. The rich forests of the Sierra Nevada and its spur, the Carson Range, provided the wood for the Comstock mine and buildings throughout Nevada. Early Ranching Ranches are unique to the American West. Across the state, cattle and sheep grazed and foraged on large acreages. The heyday of Nevada ranching was in the 1870s and 1880s; as mining declined, ranching was an option to some. Two subcultures emerged: the phenomenon of the cowboy and Basque shepherds. John Sparks (1843–1908), a two-term governor of Nevada, was an example of Nevada rancher who prospered on the heels of mining. In 1881 he bought a ranch near Elko, then in 1883 purchased the famous Jasper Harrell ranches to create Rancho Grande, which covered northern Nevada and southern Idaho. He had between 80,000 and 90,000 cattle on the range. In 1885 he built Alamo Ranch, just south of Reno, and bred pure-blood Hereford cattle. Harsh winters and losses in mining speculation contributed to his financial decline, and he died in office in 1908 with huge debts. The Basques & Other Immigrant Ranchers Among the numerous immigrant ranchers were the Basque, who came from an area in northern Spain. Early Basque immigrants, like other immigrant ranchers, arrived in California around 1850, then worked as ranchers in Nevada and Idaho. Around 1900 the Basques took over sheepherding from the Scots and Chinese in Nevada and became noted for this lonely occupation. Today, descendants of the Basque settlers hold the National Basque Festival in Elko on July 4 to preserve their culture, traditions, and language. A Center for Basque Studies was established at the University of Nevada, Reno. Two famous Basque Americans were Robert Laxalt (1924-2001), who wrote more than a dozen books on life in the West , and his brother Paul Dominique Laxalt (1922-2004), a Nevada governor and U.S. Senator. The Reno Story The Central Pacific Railroad, racing west established Reno on May 9, “peculiar industries” 1868. As the state’s new transportation hub, –gambling, divorce, Reno did not have to depend on mining to prostitution, boxing) survive. Early national attention focused on Reno in 1910 during the “Fight of the Century” between Jack Johnson, the first African American 15 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text heavyweight champion, and white fighter Jim Jeffries After amassing wealth in Tonopah and Goldfield, powerful banker George Wingfield (1876-1959) moved to Reno in 1908. Wingfield encouraged Reno to be a “wide open” town where any business activity could flourish. Reno was laying the groundwork for a tourist economy. Nevada’s Peculiar Industries Why are Nevada’s laws and customs so Industries label different from other states? Faced with the Depression, resource-poor Nevada had to legislate to stimulate the conomy. Nevada already had a negative reputation from hosting prizefights and for having easier marriage and divorce laws than other states. Prostitution, prevalent in mining camps, could be regulated and taxed. Gambling was legal earlier in the state, so it was natural to re-legalize it in 1931. Gambling, boxing, legalized prostitution, and the marriage/ divorce business became part of Nevada’s identity. After decades of scorning Nevada, many other states have now adopted parts of Nevada’s approach. HARNESSING WATER Water and the Land Most Nevada waters don’t travel to the sea. They remain in the Great Basin, forming lakes, sinks, or simply evaporate. Nevada’s rivers were essential in moving Americans westward, though often they were just trickles. Mark Twain wrote: “One of the pleasantest exercises …is to run and jump across the Humboldt River till one is overheated and then drink it dry.”Bitter quarrels over water started early. Ranchers fought with Comstock mill owners over the Carson River. Fights over the Truckee River consumed ranchers, Lake Tahoe planners, and Pyramid Lake Paiutes, who saw their ancestral fishing grounds deteriorating. Stillwater Wildlife Refuge, northeast of Fallon, is an important stop for migratory birds. Diminished water from the Truckee-Carson river complex has damaged habitat for pelicans, geese, and other birds. Colossal Water Projects The federal government provided water for Nevada’s residents with two massive projects. Congressman Francis Newlands’ 1902 legislation allowed public land to be acquired, irrigated and made useful. The Newlands Reclamation Act, first of its kind in the nation, acquired public land to build dams, reservoirs, and irrigation canals for Nevada. As a result, the area from Fernley to Fallon to Stillwater has produced millions of dollars worth of hay, livestock, melons, poultry, and dairy products. Damming the Colorado River and creating Lake Mead in the 1930s provided tourism, recreation, and a potential reservoir for southern Nevada. But getting the water uphill to Las Vegas had to wait until the 1960s, when Senator Alan Bible produced legislation to deliver Lake Mead water to Las Vegas. Now the city could truly grow. Generating Power: The Hoover Dam The building of Hoover Dam in the 1930s was the “big bonanza” for Las Vegas. It brought in 16 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text thousands of workers in the midst of massive unemployment elsewhere. Despite dangerous, hot working conditions, the dam was finished in fewer than five years, ahead of schedule and under budget. As well as taming the Colorado River, and providing water and power for the Southwest, Hoover Dam transformed the small town of Las Vegas into a major city. When President Roosevelt dedicated it on September 30, 1935, Hoover Dam became a powerful, positive symbol for the nation. During the terrible economic conditions of the Great Depression, it stood out as a brilliant accomplishment. FEDERAL GOVERNMENT - Nevada Strikes a Deal More than four-fifths of Nevada is owned by the federal government. Upon statehood in 1864, Congress required Nevada’s constitution to “forever disclaim all right to unappropriated public lands…” Agreeing to give up land outside the mining areas was easy for citizens to do in 1864. Today, the Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management lease vast acreages for grazing and timber. Much land is used for military purposes, including the Nevada Test Site, where atomic bombs were detonated in the 1950s and 1960s. What does federal ownership of Nevada land mean for wild horses, Native Americans, and the cost of housing in the Las Vegas valley? The Military in Nevada The U.S. military has played an enormous role in Nevada. The Nevada Test Site, established in 1951 to study nuclear explosions, was a key part of the Cold War with the Soviet Union. Testing brought national attention to Las Vegas and a large payroll to its economy. The Las Vegas Army Gunnery School opened in 1941. The primary mission trained machine gunners to shoot down enemy fighter planes. Training more than 25,000 men, the base swelled the Las Vegas population. Lighter than aluminum, magnesium was critical for World War II airplanes. Thousands of workers at the Basic Magnesium plant produced 166 million tons of magnesium. Southern Nevada emerged from the war with a new industrial base and a new city, Henderson. Little-known Wendover was one of the most Atomic Bombs on Japan Military important airfields of World War II. Flight crews trained there for a secret mission, to drop an atomic bomb on Japan. Its remote location enhanced security. Postwar controversy about the use of atomic bombs does not include Wendover. Its job was simply to prepare the crew for the Pacific. Stead Air Force Base in Reno, the Fallon Naval Air Station, and the Hawthorne Army Depot are among other sites in Nevada where the military has played a significant role in the community. Choosing Isolation: Nevada’s Nuclear Test Sites Just 65 miles north of Las Vegas lay one of the Nevada’s Nuclear most controversial landmarks to American Test Sites scientific ingenuity and Cold War politics. In 1950, president Harry Truman established the Nevada Proving Grounds, which later became the Nevada Test Site, on 1,350 square miles of dry lakes and rugged mountains. Larger than the state of Rhode Island, the Test Site quickly became the keystone of America’s nuclear complex during the Cold War. Between 1951 and 1962 above-ground nuclear tests were conducted, until an international treaty moved the tests underground. In Las Vegas, residents and tourists watched the spectacle of atmospheric tests light up the sky, and the 17 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text mushroom cloud became the icon of the nuclear age. Area 51 On the Northern border of the Test Site, the Air Force established Area 51, the legendary research and development facility, to take advantage of its almost total seclusion. African Americans: Segregation in Early Las Vegas In 1940 there were around 200 African Segregation in Early BMI and influx of Americans living in Las Vegas. By 1942, more Las Vegas black workers than 2,000 moved to southern Nevada to work at the Basic Magnesium plant, many from Loui- siana and Arkansas. The first housing at Basic was for whites only; most of the new arrivals lived in the longneglected Westside, where conditions were appalling. In 1943 Carver Park opened at Basic to house African Americans, but most continued to live on the Westside, near churches and family. In a war-time atmosphere, Las Vegas became an increasingly segregated community, where African Americans, even world-renowned entertainers, could not stay or dine at Strip hotels. This changed in 1960 when black community leaders threatened a demonstration on the Strip. The resort owners, fearing bad publicity, desegregated the hotels. VIVA LAS VEGAS LAS VEGAS STORY Las Vegas: From Railroad Town to Today After the Mormons abandoned their mission, Las Vegas was reborn as a railroad town in 1905. The San Pedro, Salt Lake, and Los Angeles Railroad bought land and water rights and controlled the city for years. That downtown streets parallel the railroad tracks, and do not run in a north-south direction, is a reminder of its early dominance. Hoover Dam, built from 1931 to 1935, provided tourists, payrolls, and Lake Mead. Combined with 1931 state laws legalizing gambling and liberalizing divorce rules, Las Vegas became a tourist town. World War II brought an air base and a magnesium plant, tripling the population. Changing from Old West imagery to more exotic themes in the 1950s, the brilliantly lit Las Vegas became a world destination. The Gaming Life Like most frontier mining areas, gambling was part of Nevada’s culture from the start. State gambling to major legislation passed in 1931 allowed wide-open industry) gambling. Replacing the railroad as the state’s dominant industry, well-known casinos such as Harrah’s and Harold’s Club in Reno led the way. Gamblers, often criminals, came to Nevada as legitimate businessmen, bringing a new level of expertise. Las Vegas, sparked by the 1946 opening of the Flamingo Hotel , soon became well-known in American culture. Billionaire Howard Hughes brought legitimacy to the industry in the 1960s. Financing evolved from mob accounts to pension funds to major Wall street firms as Las Vegas became acceptable to mainstream America. 18 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text Las Vegas “The Early Years” 1905 The railroad auctions lots in downtown Las Vegas, creating a new city by the tracks. 1922 Railroad workers protest Union Pacific policies and strike. The economic slowdown of Las Vegas that followed was a good indicator of how dependent the city was on the railroad. 1931 Construction of Hoover Dam begins, bringing payrolls, tourists, and a building boom to Las Vegas. 1935 Helldorado begins as a way to attract attention and tourists after Hoover Dam construction ends. The rodeo and parades remained community events into the 1990s. 1941 The first major resort-casino opens on the Strip, the El Rancho Vegas. It continues the western theme of earlier downtown casinos. 1941 The first major resort-casino opens on the Strip, the El Rancho Vegas. It continues the western theme of earlier downtown casinos. The Aerial Gunnery School (later Nellis Air Force Base) also opens. 1942 The first magnesium ingots roll out of the Basic Magnesium plant for use in World War II aircraft. The site becomes the city of Henderson. 1946 The Flamingo Hotel opens on the Strip. Although mobster Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel is often credited for the hotel, Hollywood publisher Billy Wilkerson was the creative force. The Flamingo moves Las Vegas away from a western theme. 1951 The first atomic bomb explodes at the Nevada Test Site. The Test Site brought a large payroll and much publicity for Las Vegas. 1955 The Moulin Rouge opens as the city’s first racially integrated hotel. 1966 Howard Hughes arrives and buys several Las Vegas hotels. His presence helped pave the way for corporations to own casinos. 1989 The Mirage opens as the first “mega-resort” in Las Vegas. Famous Nevadans Pat McCarran A powerful U. S. senator for twenty years, Pat McCarran (1876–1954) is often remembered for his strong anti-Communist policies. A supporter of air and defense industries in Nevada, millions recognize his name from McCarran Airport. Rex Bell 19 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text Popular cowboy movie star Rex Bell (1903–1962) left Hollywood in the 1930s for the Searchlight ranch he shared with his actress wife Clara Bow. Elected in 1954, Bell served two terms as lieutenant governor. Anne Martin Anne Martin (1875–1951) worked tirelessly so that Nevada women could vote. Her suffragette activities succeeded. Nevada granted that right in 1914, well before the U.S. constitution was amended in 1920. Andre Agassi The most recognizable international athlete from Las Vegas, Andre Agassi (b. 1970) is one of five players in tennis history to win all four Grand Slam events, including a 1992 title at Wimbledon. His unmatched philanthropic work for Las Vegas children improves a great number of lives in his home town. Behind the Scenes: Labor and the Culinary Union Often overlooked for flashier stories about and the Culinary Union hotels, gangsters, and entertainers, the Culinary Union’s cooperation was crucial to Las Vegas’s success. Founded in the 1930s, Culinary Union Local 226 represents hotel and restaurant employees, but not casino workers. It successfully negotiated wage, health, and pension benefits for decades. The first major strike did not occur until 1976, followed by a more serious walkout in 1984. More than 18,000 workers, seeking better benefits, left work for 67 days. All sides in the conflict saw the negative impact on tourism and the local economy. That settlement paved the way for today’s long labor peace. Although union membership in America is declining, in Las Vegas it remains a success story. Howard Hughes in Las Vegas The individual who brought Las Vegas its Las Vegas strangest publicity was billionaire Howard Hughes (1905–1976). Famous for building aircraft and producing movies, Hughes bought Las Vegas land as early as the 1940s, areas now called Green Valley and Summerlin. Facing eviction from the Desert Inn in 1966, Hughes bought the hotel. He then acquired the Sands, Frontier, Landmark, Castaways, Silver Slipper, and Harold’s Club. Isolating himself in the Desert Inn penthouse for four years, Hughes made it difficult for gambling control agents to deal with his empire. Because Hughes was so reclusive, rumors about his bizarre life ran wild. Leaving secretly in 1970, Hughes never returned. A buyer, not a builder, his greatest contribution was legitimizing Las Vegas to the world and paving the way for corporations to own casinos. 20 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text Helldorado As Hoover Dam construction wound down, community leaders worried about replacing the economic benefits. One answer began in 1935, when the Elks Club sponsored the Helldorado celebration. Helldorado featured parades, rodeos, beauty contests, and beardgrowing contests. This “Wild West” celebration was one of the first special events aimed at attracting tourists. Popularized in the 1946 Roy Rogers film Heldorado, censors insisted on only one “L” in the title. For Las Vegans, Helldorado was an annual rite of spring. Generations of school children joined the parades. Ending in the 1990s, Helldorado was the longest-running civic celebration in Las Vegas. CASINOS + ENTERTAINMENT - Life is a Stage Nothing represents Las Vegas more than the showgirl. The glamour, feathers, and bright colors were unlike anything tourists saw back home. Chorus lines were common in hotel revues in the 1940s and 1950s. The first topless revue was Minsky’s Follies in 1957 at the Dunes. Soon, new showgirl spectaculars appeared, as two shows were imported from France. The Stardust opened Lido de Paris in 1958, featuring six stages, a swimming pool, and an ice rink. In 1959 the long-running Folies Bergere opened at the Tropicana. Early showgirls were not expected to do much singing and dancing, just glide across the stage in spectacular outfits. Modern showgirls often have backgrounds in classical dance. They are also community representatives and stars of advertising campaigns—the classic icons of Las Vegas. Movies and Myths Las Vegas, one of the few American cities that looks like a movie set, attracts many filmmakers. Some tell an accurate story; most add to false perceptions. Fascination with crime is a recurring theme of movies set in Las Vegas. Casino (1995) was based on real events, the decline of the mob. Bugsy (1991) is full of inaccuracies, painting Bugsy Siegel as a visionary. The notion of Las Vegas as a national playground was bolstered by the Rat Pack’s Oceans 11 (1960). Movies preserve the past even if Las Vegas doesn’t. Viva Las Vegas (1964) provides a scenic tour. Mars Attacks (1996) records the implosion of the Landmark Hotel. The allure of Las Vegas remains powerful. As Dustin Hoffman’s character in Rain Man says, “Very sparkly, very twinkly.” African Americans at the Moulin Rouge As the city’s first multiracial casino, the Moulin Rouge made a lasting impact on Las Vegas, although it was open only from May to October of 1955. A source of immense pride to the African American community, the Moulin Rouge was integrated when other resorts in Las Vegas excluded black patrons. Even such stars as Sammy Davis, Jr., Lena Horne, and Nat “King” Cole could not stay where they performed. For five months large, inter-racial audiences enjoyed the lively Moulin Rouge atmosphere. Its closing has never been fully explained, but the Moulin Rouge had left its mark. Las Vegas hotels began allowing its black entertainers more freedom. The public had seen integration and enjoyed it. Racial conditions could never return to what they were before the Moulin Rouge opened. 21 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text Organized Crime and a Man Named “Bugsy” Between 1920 and 1933, the 18th amendment to the U.S. Constitution prohibited the purchase and sale of alcohol. When Prohibition ended, illegal bootleggers sought new revenue. Prominent among them were New Yorkers Meyer Lansky (1902–1983) and Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel (1906–1947). Siegel came west to control horse race betting. He and Lansky bought hidden interests in downtown Las Vegas clubs. After publisher Billy Wilkerson ran out of money building the Flamingo Hotel, Siegel muscled in on the project and opened it in 1946. Because of perceived cost overruns, Lansky had Siegel killed. His gangland-style execution sparked widespread publicity about Las Vegas and began the myth of “Bugsy” Siegel and Las Vegas. Siegel didn’t build the Flamingo or invent the Strip. He wasn’t a visionary but a cold-blooded murderer. His death, however, made Las Vegas famous. SOUTHERN NEVADA TODAY Casino Moguls and Mega Resorts The Flamingo’s 1946 opening departed from earlier Western styles, beginning a progression to more exotic themes (Dunes, Riviera Sahara). When Jay Sarno’s Roman-themed Caesars Palace opened in 1966, it set a glamorous new standard. Kirk Kerkorian (b. 1917) enlarged the scale of Las Vegas hotels far beyond what pioneer operators could have imagined. He built the three largest hotels in the world in their time: the 1969 International (now Las Vegas Hilton), the 1973 MGM (now Bally’s), and the1993 MGM Grand. Modern Las Vegas came of age in 1989 when Steve Wynn built the Mirage. Overcoming financiers’ doubts about such a huge investment, the size, opulence, and entertainment set a new pattern for modern Las Vegas. Today’s billion-dollar mega-resort industry began with the Mirage. “Wasteland” to World Class “Wonderland” In the late twentieth century new understandings of ecology contributed to a realization that deserts are complex places that need to be protected and preserved. In the 19th century Americans moved into the desert lands of the southwest and discovered an arid, unfamiliar, and often frightening landscape. By the mid-20th century the massive Hoover Dam project made the desert environment of Las Vegas less foreboding. World War II brought thousands to the valley and many stayed. By the 1950s, Las Vegas was an international tourist destination, and deserts became exotic playgrounds. Still, the willing embrace of nuclear testing and unplanned sprawl of Las Vegas as it grew through the 1960s 22 Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas Permanent Exhibit Text and 1970s demonstrated the persistence of the perception of the desert as a wasteland. The challenge of the twenty-first century is to learn how to live lightly on a fragile desert land. Looking Ahead High on the western slopes of Mt. Wheeler in Central Nevada, a remarkable group of technological innovators is building an underground chamber to house a 10,000-year clock and library. The Long Now Foundation’s unusual clock encourages planning for a sustainable future. Nowhere is the need for thoughtful planning more clear than in Las Vegas. Once considered unique in both environment and economy, by the end of the 20th century Las Vegas was a mirror of critical national economic and demographic trends. As one of the fastest-growing cities in America, Las Vegas faces many challenges and offers a laboratory for a nation working to reconcile a century of technologically driven progress with a growing concern about the unintended consequences of perpetual growth. CLOSING STATEMENT What does it mean to be a Nevadan? What does it mean to live in a state where the resources are so fragile? What are the costs? What are the stories every Nevadan should know? How long do you have to live here before you’re truly a Nevadan? What sounds or smells remind you of Nevada? How about Las Vegas? If you had to create a postcard of Nevada to send to a friend, what would you draw? 23
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