makeup FEATURE
seven
THE
deadly
makeup
sins
By Terri Vinson BSc. DipEd.
DipFormChem. ASCC
H
aving been in this industry
for over 20 years as a
female cosmetic formulator,
I have seen some weird and
wonderful beauty trends
come and go. Makeup has
undergone its own massive
makeover over the years,
particularly with the advent of quality mineral
makeup. Everyday makeup is designed to enhance,
not alter your appearance. Too often I see young
women with fair skin and dark, over-bronzed
faces! Here are my top tips and tricks to avoid the
most common makeup blunders.
1. Caught in a time warp
Many of us in our forties and fifties have
been caught out still using the same makeup
techniques and colours we used in our twenties.
Times, trends and techniques have certainly
changed and as we age my top tip is the old
classic, ‘less is best’.
We cannot expect the makeup we used in our twenties to still be
appropriate today. As we age, our skin appears drier and those dreaded fine
lines begin to infiltrate, so subtle enhancement with a dewy complexion is
key. Heavily applied foundation, shimmery eyeshadows and bright colours
will instantly add years to your look. Opt for hydrating bases, natural
eyeshadows on the lid and crease, and choose subtle brown eyeliner instead
of harsh black tones.
2. Jaw ‘tidemarks’: using the wrong colour foundation
Foundation: bad match (left) and good match (right).
Choosing the correct shade for your skin tone creates the basis of your makeup.
That’s why it’s called ‘foundation’! Don’t get stuck in the rut of using one shade of
foundation all year round. Your skin will change with the seasons, even without
lying in the sun, so your foundation should also change. Choose a foundation in
your lightest tone for winter and a darker tone for summer. Mix the two between
seasons or use a matte bronzer to deepen your winter foundation. If you’re unsure,
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makeup FEATURE
I would suggest getting matched by a skincare and makeup professional. It’s fine
to go a little darker in summer as long as it blends with your natural neck and
jaw tones, but using a dark foundation will certainly not enhance your natural
skin tone or make your skin look any healthier.
Do not match foundation to the inside of your wrist; it’s simply not the
same tone as your face. For a perfect match, choose a shade that blends
directly into your neck or jawline. Also remember to use the correct brush:
a kabuki brush to blend loose minerals and a foundation brush to blend
creams and liquids. My best advice is blend, blend, blend… then check and
blend some more.
3. Getting carried away with concealer
Avoid overusing concealers. Your foundation should be able to conceal 90
percent of skin imperfections. Concealing is a necessary final step to creating
a flawless base, but it should never be obvious – always blend, blend, blend!
• Colour correction should be applied first (before foundation) to even out
skin tone. Apply sparingly with a small concealer brush and blend using
dabbing movements with your ring finger.
• After colour correction, apply skin tone concealers (one shade lighter
than your foundation) over the top of your base colour. Apricot-toned
concealers are perfect for hiding dark under eye circles and green-based
concealers are ideal for camouflaging redness.
• To cover minor blemishes, use a concealer that is slightly lighter than
your foundation.
• Apply concealer sparingly to the base of your eyelid to brighten the area
and make your eyes seem more awake.
• Don’t use concealer containing ingredients that may congest the skin.
Avoid comedogenic oils, petroleum based oils, and artificial colours.
Mineral concealers are ideal.
4. Over-drawn lips
and visible lip liner
If you wish to create
the illusion of fuller
lips, applying lip liner
and lipstick too far over
the lip line is not the
way to go. Here are my
Lip liner: overdrawn lips (left) and correctly drawn lips (right).
tips to enhance your
natural shape and create a perfectly defined pout:
• Preparation is the key – apply an overnight lip treatment and gently
exfoliate lips with a toothbrush and mild physical exfoliant.
• Apply loose minerals or setting powder sparingly to the lips as a primer to
create a blank canvas.
• Choose a lighter lip colour or gloss to give the illusion of larger lips.
• Line lips with a liner slightly darker than your lipstick using small,
feathery strokes. Avoid over-drawing more than 2mm from the natural lip
line and blend inwards to avoid a visible line.
• Apply a thin layer of lipstick with a brush and blot with a tissue.
• Follow with a light dusting of setting powder.
• Apply another thin layer of lipstick with a brush and blot again.
• Apply a dab of highlighter to the Cupid’s bow and blend.
• Clean up the edge of the lip line with a light tone of concealer and blend with
a small cotton tip or your ring finger.
5. Harsh blush and bronzer lines
A little blush or bronzer goes a long way! Start by very lightly sculpting
the cheekbones with your bronzer. Then subtly build up the tone of
your blush in light layers on the apples of your cheeks and temples.
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Brows: 1990s over-defined brows (left) and today’s
natural fuller looking brows (right)
Harsh, unblended streaks are not a good look.
Contouring takes practice and using the correct
blending brush is vital. Soft ‘bunny tail’ brushes
are excellent for applying blush while contouring
requires a slightly denser brush.
6. 1990s brows
Thin, over-defined brows are out. Today’s brows
are natural and fuller. If you don’t trust yourself to
create the ideal shape, consult a trusted eyebrow
therapist to give you the brow best suited to your
face. Once you have the brows in shape it’s time to
define with makeup:
• Apply a matte brow powder to fill and define.
Blondes and light brunettes look best with a
taupe tone. Dark hair looks best with a deep,
chocolate tone and should avoid any browns
with a reddish tone.
• Use a flat, slanted brush to define your brows.
• Apply using light, sweeping strokes in the
direction of the hair.
• Set with a small amount of hairspray on a dry
mascara wand.
7. Using cheap makeup
When it comes to makeup you really do get what
you pay for. Quality mineral makeup is the makeup
of choice today. Many companies have jumped
on the mineral bandwagon and created inferior
faux mineral products – products containing
cheap, cake-y fillers (talc), pore-clogging additives
(dimethicone) and artificial colours. Quality mineral
foundations should behave like a second skin and
produce a dewy glow with natural coverage that
can be gradually built up in layers. To get the best
results, it is best to choose makeup that does more
than just enhance; it should actually benefit the
skin. Ingredients like zinc oxide provide natural UV
protection and reduce redness and irritation.
The key to having a radiant glow is in using
products that enhance and benefit skin and
combining this with the correct techniques. Your
makeup should work in synergy with your skin
and support skin function throughout the day.
Makeup can be a huge confidence booster, so find
a range that suits your skin type and tone and,
most importantly, have fun with it! At the end of
the day, it is about making you feel truly great in
your skin. n