Cover Page
The handle http://hdl.handle.net/1887/39627 holds various files of this Leiden University
dissertation.
Author: Brandenburgh, C.R.
Title: Clothes make the man : early medieval textiles from the Netherlands
Issue Date: 2016-05-10
8. Discussion
8.1
INTRODUCTION
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8.2.
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
OF THE TEXTILES FROM THE
CEMETERIES
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387. For an overview of the way gold thread has been used
in embroideries see Owen Crocker 2004, 308-315. The use of
gold thread in woven bands (gold-brocading) is discussed by
Walton Rogers 2007, 96-97. For a detailed description of the
gold thread in Maastricht see chapter 4 (section 4.5.2) and
Brandenburgh 2015, 42-45.
388. Personal comment J. Kempkens of Restaura restauratieatelier.
145
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
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389. Here traces of red and yellow were found but one could
not tell whether these were derived from dyes or from the
sediment in which the mitten had been excavated (analysis
Instituut Collectie Nederland, 09-01-2009/1219).
146
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twills
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147
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
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settlements. N=235. These textile remains will be
discussed in section 8.8.
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397. Brandenburgh 2015, 46 (chapter 4).
398. Brandenburgh 2013, 134.
399. Chapter 5, (section 5.4).
148
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400. Chapter 5, (section 5.4).
DISCUSSION
a
b
6
c
4
7
2
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1
24
1
6
10
2
1
3
1
5
4
16
1
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10
6
1
35
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6
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1
5
1
g
i
h
1
14
4
16
5
55
98
29
8
1
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2
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4
2
9
1
5
1
4
1
2
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1
9
3
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1
1
46
5
21
2
44
tabby z/s
tabby 2zS/2zS
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diamond twill spinpattern
3/1 twil z/z
tabby s/s
2/2 twill z/z
diamond twill z/s
2/1 twill z/s
3/3 twil z/z
diamond twill z/z
2/1 twill z/z
tablet weave
tabby spin-pattern
6
2/2 twill s/s
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J3RVWHUKROW1 K:LMFKHQ1 L5KHQHQ1 149
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
a
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6th century
1 1
6
5
1
1
21
8.3
6
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21
1
b
8.3.1
7th century
6
1
1 2
2
39
11
26
2
3
tabby z/s
2/2 twill z/s
diamond twill z/s
tabby z/z
2/2 twill z/z
diamond twill z/z
tabby s/s
2/2 twill s/s
2/1 twill z/s
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401. The graves from Rhenen have not been dated yet and
the pieces from this site can therefore not be used for this
purpose.
150
QUALITY OF THE TEXTILES FROM
THE CEMETERIES
Quality of textiles based on thread count
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DISCUSSION
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405. These characteristics have not been documented consistently in all cemeteries and the boundary between ‘regular’
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Nevertheless it is noteworthy that regular textiles have been
documented by the author far more often than irregular ones
in all cemeteries.
406. Wells 2008, 68.
151
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
b
35
35
30
30
Number of threads/cm Y
Number of threads/cm Y
a
25
20
15
10
5
25
20
15
10
5
0
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
0
35
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
30
35
Number of threads/cm X
Number of threads/cm X
d
35
35
30
30
Number of threads/cm Y
Number of threads/cm Y
c
25
20
15
10
5
25
20
15
10
5
0
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Number of threads/cm X
tabby
2/2 twill
2/2 diamond twill
0
5
10
15
20
25
Number of threads/cm X
2/1 twill
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women’s graves 50 and 89.
8.5b. Quality of textiles from Lent-Lentseveld, measured in threads/cm. The fragment of exceptionally high
thread count was found in women’s grave 23.
8.5c. Quality of textiles from Leusden, measured in threads/cm.
G4XDOLW\RIWH[WLOHVIURP0DDVWULFKW±9ULMWKRIPHDVXUHGLQWKUHDGVFP:RPHQ¶VJUDYHFRQWDLQHGWKH
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152
DISCUSSION
f
35
50
30
45
25
40
20
Number of threads/cm Y
Number of threads/cm Y
e
15
10
5
35
30
25
20
15
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
10
Number of threads/cm X
5
g
35
0
0
5
Number of threads/cm Y
30
10
15
20
25
30
35
Number of threads/cm X
25
20
15
10
tabby
2/2 diamond twill
2/2 twill
rippenköper
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Number of threads/cm X
H4XDOLW\RIWH[WLOHVIURP0DDVWULFKW±3DQGKRIPHDVXUHGLQWKUHDGVFP7KH¿QHVWWH[WLOHVZHUHIRXQGLQ
graves 11341 and 10128.
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found in graves 1, 26, 137 and 164 (sex unknown)
8.5g. Quality of textiles from Posterholt, measured in threads/cm.
153
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
h
35
Number of threads/cm Y
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Number of threads/cm X
i
j
40
35
35
30
Number of threads/cm Y
Number of threads/cm Y
30
25
20
15
10
25
20
15
10
5
5
0
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
0
5
Number of threads/cm X
tabby
2/2 twill
2/2 diamond twill
10
15
20
25
30
35
Number of threads/cm X
2/1 twill
3/1 twill
3/3 twill
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graves 73 (F), 413 (F), 433 (F), 460 (M), 476 (M) and 733 (?).
8.5i. Quality of the tabbies from Rhenen, measured in threads/cm
M4XDOLW\RIWH[WLOHV:LMFKHQPHDVXUHGLQWKUHDGVFP
154
DISCUSSION
40
35
30
Number of threads/cm Y
25
20
15
10
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Number of threads/cm X
tabby z/s
tabby spin-pattern
tabby z/z
tabby s/s
Fig. 8.6. Quality of the different types of tabby (from all cemeteries), measured in threads/cm.
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155
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
Number of threads/cm Y
30
Number of threads/cm Y
25
20
15
25
20
15
10
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
Number of threads/cm X
10
5
diamond twill z/s
diamond twill s/s
diamond twill z/z
diamond twill spin-pattern
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
Number of threads/cm X
tabby z/s wool
tabby z/z wool
tabby z/s plant?
tabby z/z plant?
8.4
Fig. 8.7. Quality of the tabbies (from all cemeteries)
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threads/cm.
Number of threads/cm Y
20
15
10
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
Number of threads/cm X
rippenköper
2/1 twill z/z
2/1 twill z/s
3/1 twill
3/3 twill
Fig. 8.9. Quality of the different types of broken
diamond twill (from all cemeteries), measured in
threads/cm.
156
Fig. 8.8. Quality of the different types of 2/2 twill (from
all cemeteries), measured in threads/cm.
RECONSTRUCTING BURIAL
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DISCUSSION
35
30
Number of threads/cm Y
25
20
15
10
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Number of threads/cm X
2/2 twill z/s
2/2 twill s/s
2/2 twill z/z
2/2 twill spin-pattern
Fig. 8.10. Quality of the different special fabrics, measured in threads/cm
157
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
a
6th century
Number of threads/cm
Number Y
of threads/cm Y
50
20
45
15
40
10
35
5
30
0
25 0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Number of threads/cm X
20
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15
10
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the shoulders, associated with the peplos gown, are charDFWHULVWLFIRUWKHSHULRG,QWKHPLGGOHRIWKH¿IWK
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sixth century the 9LHU¿EHOWUDFKt is dominant with two small
brooches at the chest and two large bow brooches at the
waist. From 555-585 the two brooches at the chest are slowly
reduced to one brooch. In this same period the two bow
brooches that were previously positioned at the waist are now
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this is a dress type with only two small brooches at the chest.
From the end of the sixth century the pair of bow brooches at
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brooch at the chest.
427. Undergarments are not visible on the images from this
period but are mentioned in several contemporary literary
sources and have frequently been found in the archaeological
record.
428. Owen-Crocker 2004, 162.
DISCUSSION
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WKH FRQWLQHQW ZHUH FURVVJDUWHUV ZUDSSHG DURXQG
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GHSLFWHGRIWHQRQ5RPDQVFXOSWXUHVDVZHOO7KHVH
FRXOGEHVKRUWRUORQJUHDFKLQJWRWKHKLSRUNQHHDQG
ZHUHPDGHRXWDUHFWDQJXODUSLHFHRIIDEULFIDVWHQHG
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(QJODQG ZUDSRYHU FRDWV KDYH EHHQ LGHQWL¿HG RQ
GHFRUDWHGEURQ]HSODTXHVDQGVKHHWVRIJROGZKLOH
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ZDV IRXQG LQ D JUDYH LQ &RORJQH DQG LQ VHYHUDO
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430. Mannering 2008, 62.
*HLMHU
432. Hägg 1983, 334.
0|OOHU:LHULQJ)RU*HUPDQ\VHH
6FKODERZ)DUNH)RU6ZHGHQVHH1RFNHUW
&GDWHVE\9DQGHU3OLFKWDQG9DQGHU6DQGHQ
1996, 192.
9HGHOHU%HQGHU-¡UJHQVHQ
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76-80.
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6FKODERZ
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onwards
0DQQHULQJ2ZHQ&URFNHU
439. Historical sources state that fur was a sign of wealth/
luxury (Owen Crocker 2004, 182)
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8.4.1.2 Men’s clothing
163
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8.4.1.3 Headwear for men and women
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440. Crowfoot 1983, 415.
6HHIRUDVXPPDU\RIWKHKLVWRU\RIUHOHYDQWKHDGFRYHUings Brandenburgh 2012c, 36-45 (chapter 7).
442. Walton Rogers 2007, 162-63.
2ZHQ&URFNHU¿J
164
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445. Brandenburgh 2012, 32-36.
446. Owen-Crocker 2004, 157-159.
447. Brandenburgh 2012c (chapter 7).
448. Owen-Crocker 2004, 159.
DISCUSSION
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449. Magoula 2008, 99-100.
450. Magoula 2008, 136-137.
451. Brandenburgh 2010, 63.
452. Walton Rogers 2007, 68.
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see Hägg 1991, 164-165.
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8.4.2.1 Textiles associated with the lower body (of
both men and women)456
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established the paragraphs below give a generalised overview
RIWKHWH[WLOHVDVVRFLDWHGZLWKVSHFL¿FSDUWVRIWKHERG\RI
both men and women. Where possible individual cases of men
or women are mentioned.s
457. Findnumber 29-03-07, dated to the period 460/80-725
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459. The twill has been removed during restoration, no details
regarding the twill were documented.
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670/80.
165
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a
25
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20
15
10
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
Number of threads/cm X
Wijchen 2/2 twill z/s
Bergeijk 2/2 twill z/z
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Rhenen tabby z/z
St.Servaas church tabby z/z
Rhenen tabby z/s
Bergeijk 2/2 twill z/s
Posterholt tabby spin-pattern
b
25
Number of threads/cm Y
20
15
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8.4.2.2 Textiles associated with the belt
10
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
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tabby z/z
2/2 twill z/s
Fig. 8.17a. The quality of the different types of textiles
associated with strap ends, measured in threads/cm.
Fig. 8.17b. Quality of the fabrics found on the back of
the strap ends, measured in threads/cm.
166
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461. Brandenburgh 2015 (chapter 4, section 4.5.5.2).
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Banck-Burgess summarises the use and distribution of ripSHQN|SHULQEXULDOVLQ6ZLW]HUODQGDQGVRXWKHUQ*HUPDQ\
6KHVKRZVWKDWLQPHQ¶VJUDYHVWKHIDEULFLVRIWHQSUHVHQWRQ
the outside of belt parts and (based on the many folds in the
surviving textiles) concludes that these fabrics represent wide
mantles (Banck-Burgess 2003).
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465. Findnumber 556.1, grave 10332, sex unknown, 565$',WLVSRVVLEOHWKDWWKH¿UVWWH[WLOHZDVZRUQXQGHU
the belt and partly folded over it.
466. Findnumber 60.1, grave 10042, sex unknown, 565$'7KHRXWHUIDEULFZDVUDWKHURSHQPDGHRXWRI
0.2mm thin threads,16x12 threads/cm. The sex of the person
LQWKLVJUDYHFRXOGQRWEHLGHQWL¿HG
467. Findnumber 1473, grave 105, sex unknown, 610/20$'
167
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
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a
Number of threads/cm weft
20
15
10
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
Number of threads/cm warp
30
b
Number of threads/cm weft
20
15
10
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
Number of threads/cm warp
tabby
2/2 twill
diamond twill
3/3 twill
2/1 twill
Fig.8.18a. Textiles present on the back of belt parts
(worn under the belt) from the cemetery of Rhenen.
Fig.8.18b. Textiles present on the front of belt parts
(worn over or under the belt) from the cemetery of
Rhenen.
RU HGJH RI WKH EXFNOH WKH RWKHU EXFNOHV ZHUH
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:RPDQ¶VJUDYH$'JUDYHVH[XQknown, 610- >640) and woman’s grave 235 ((450)500-555).
168
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469. Findnumber 30-03-06.2, sex unknown, dated in the
SHULRG$'
DISCUSSION
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8.4.2.3 Textiles associated with brooches
7H[WLOH UHPQDQWV KDYH DOVR EHHQ IRXQG DWWDFKHG WR
WKHEDFNRUVSULQJRIEURRFKHV6LQFHEURRFKHVDUH
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DYHLORUVKDZORQWRDQRWKHUJDUPHQW8VLQJVHYHUDO
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footnotes has only in the case of Lent-Lentseveld been based
on human remains. In all other cases we are dealing with
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dress accessories. In a small amount of burials the type and
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LQWKHGH¿QLWLRQµVH[XQNQRZQ¶
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471. For a detailed description of the textiles associated with
WKHEURRFKHVIURP/HQW/HQWVHYHOGDQG:LMFKHQVHHFKDSWHU
(section 5.5.3.3).
169
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
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472. Findnumber 466.7 from grave 11342 (woman, 510/25$'¿QGQXPEHUIURPJUDYHZRPDQ
$'DQG¿QGQXPEHUIURPJUDYH
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473. The brooch from grave 11220 is one of a pair of bowbrooches, found in the area of the hip. The brooch from grave
11321 is one of a pair of small round brooches worn on the
chest. Brooch 466 is a single brooch in grave 11342 whose
location in the grave is not clear.
6FKOHLHUJHZHEHLVIRXQGLQWKHWHUSVHWWOHPHQWRI/HHQV
GDWLQJLQWKHSHULRG$'7KHVHDUHZRYHQZLWK
equally thin threads but even fewer threads/cm (Brandenburgh 2010a, 63).
475. Hägg 1991, 272.
)LQGQXPEHUIURPJUDYHZRPDQ
640/50. This fabric is woven out of 0.2mm thick threads with
25x13 threads/cm.
DISCUSSION
Fig. 8.19 Reconstructions of veils decorated with a golden band (left) or in combination with a gold-braided YLWWD
ULJKW'UDZLQJV&YDQ+HHV
8.4.2.4 Textiles associated with women’s headwear
6HYHUDO JUDYHV KDYH \LHOGHG WH[WLOHV WKDW DUH
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477. Findnumber 418-6 in grave 11321, sex unknown,
510/20-580/90, documented in Magoula 2008, appendix 1,
12.
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171
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
Fig. 8.20 Women’s dress with or without neck aperture (middle) alternative reconstruction of women’s dress with
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8.5
COVERING OBJECTS IN THE
GRAVES
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478. Only the cemetery of Rhenen yielded two pieces of
tablet woven band. One of these was attached to a leather
strap while the other was attached to chain links that were
probably hanging from the belt. The tablet woven border may
represent a reinforced hem of a cloak.
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479. Banck-Burgess 1999, 18-23.
480. Banck-Burgess 1999, 24-25.
:LMFKHQ¿QGQXPEHUD¿QHZRROOHQGLDPRQGWZLOO
z/z (12-14x10-12 threads/cm).
482. Möller-Wiering 2011, 127-128.
&URZIRRW(YDQV
484. Bartel 2003.
%DQFN%XUJHVV:HOOV
:HOOV
487. Williams 2005, 209.
173
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
Site
Tabby z/s or
other
Tabby
z/z
2/2
twill
z/s
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twill
z/z
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spinpattern
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twill
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z/s
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twill
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indet
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1
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1
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11
1
Table 8.1 Textiles types associated with weapons.
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DISCUSSION
a
b
35
Number of threads/cm weft
15
Number of threads/cm weft
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
0
5
10
10
15
20
25
30
Number of threads/cm warp
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
Bergeijk
Maastricht
Lent
Posterholt
Wijchen
30
Number of threads/cm warp
c
35
30
Number of threads/cm weft
25
20
15
10
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
Number of threads/cm warp
tabby z/s & other
2/2 twill z/s
2/2 twill spinpattern
2/1 twill z/s
3/1 twill
tabby z/z
2/2 twill z/z
2/2 diamond twill
2/1 twill z/z
indeterminable
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made regarding fabric type.
Fig. 8.21c. The quality of the different fabric types associated with weapons from the cemetery of Rhenen, measured
in threads/cm.
175
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
8.6
MATTRESSES, PILLOWS AND
OTHER MATERIALS ON THE
BOTTOM OF THE GRAVE
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490. Ingstad 2006, 208.
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493. Hägg 1991, 191-195, 271.
6LHJPOOHU
495. Walton Rogers 2007, 225-226.
7KHSUHVHQFHRIVWUDZDQGIHDWKHUVRQREMHFWVKDVRQO\
been documented where textiles were present. The author did
QRWPHWKRGLFDOO\DQDO\VHDOOFHPHWHU\¿QGVLQRUGHUWRGRFXment straw. The results presented here are therefore to be
considered anecdotal.
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498. Brandenburgh 2013, 136.
/HHQV,9,9
500. Brandenburgh 2010a, 72.
DISCUSSION
8.7
GENDER AND AGE
DIFFERENTIATION IN BURIAL
TEXTILES501
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501. This paragraph is based on the different sections
discussed in several articles: Brandenburgh 2012a, 131%UDQGHQEXUJKLQSUHVV%UDQGHQEXUJK
%UDQGHQEXUJK6HHDOVRWKHGLIIHUHQWFDVHVWXGLHVLQ
WKLVYROXPH'LIIHUHQWLDWLRQZLWKLQFHPHWHULHVEDVHGRQTXDOity could not be discerned within this dataset. Because of the
fact that only a small percentage of the textiles has survived
and most graves contained only one or two fragments of
textiles it proved futile to attempt to search for high status
burials within the cemetery by looking for graves that stand
out by the high quality of their textiles. In the cemetery of
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only conclude that graves with rich grave goods do not always
have rich textiles, and vice versa: there are many graves with
rich textiles that do not have rich grave goods (Brandenburgh
2010b, 127).
502. Hägg 1993, 86-89.
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503. Hägg 1993, 86-89.
177
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
100
90
80
Number of textiles
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
Women
Men
Juvenile
tabby
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of women, men and children in Rhenen.
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178
DISCUSSION
a
Women
35
Number of threads/cm Y
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
35
40
45
Number of threads/cm X
b
Men
35
Number of threads Y
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
Number of threads X
tabby
2/2 twill
3/1 twill
diamond twill
2/1 twill
3/3 twill
Fig. 8.23a. Quality of the textiles associated with women in the cemetery of Rhenen, measured in threads/cm.
Fig. 8.23b. Quality of the textiles associated with men in the cemetery of Rhenen, measured in threads/cm.
179
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505. Brandenburgh 2013, 136.
506. Brandenburgh 2010a, 72-74.
507. In settlements textiles are generally coarser than 12
threads/cm. Brandenburgh 2010a, 62-63.
508. Bender Jørgensen 1992, 49.
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8.9
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511. In general we can consider the people buried in these
cemeteries as the members of a rural population whose social
and cultural horizon may have extended beyond the region.
Theuws 2014, 6.
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513. Walton Rogers pointed out that in Britain there is a
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ending with an increase of tabbies (linen, z/z) in the seventh
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later phase (50%) whereas twills (z/s in this phase) constituted only 37%. Walton Rogers 2007, 104-105.
514.Walton Rogers explains the detailed chronology in Britain
as a result of three separate phenomena: a disappearance of
twill z/s at the end of the Roman period and a reintroduction
of this fabric at the end of the sixth century, an increase in
the use of linen fabrics (that tend to have been made in tabby
z/z) and a trend towards using wool predominantly in z/s
twills. These are all aspects of textile production that are not
easily explained in terms of one textile tradition.
515. Bender Jørgensen 1991, 23.
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