Earthquake Six Months Anniversary Giant Panda Habitat: Long road to recovery By Wang Ying very well as a large falling stone almost killed me in Dujiangyan at 10 am on October 16," he says. "I felt the ground suddenly jerking up and down, making it hard to stand. The falling stone, as large as a cooking pot, fell toward my head at great speed while I was measuring the size of a landslide near a mountain at Longchi Park." Nearly six months after the May 12 earthquake devastated southwest China’s Sichuan Province, local residents are making big strides as they rise above the rubble. However, it was still unknown how the catastrophe affected the local ecosystem and wildlife in the steep forest-covered mountains that are home to many endangered wildlife including the giant pandas. Few dared enter the mountains over the July to September rainy season due to fears of aftershocks and landslides. The massive earthquake mainly jolted the Minshan and Qionglai mountains in Sichuan and Gansu as well as the Qinling mountains in Shaanxi, the main habitat area of giant pandas and one of the world's key biodiversity areas. Jiang Zhongjuan (center) and his fellow rangers on a panda survey at Longxi-Hongkou nature reserve in Sichuan province. © Zhu Yundong To learn more about the postearthquake impact of the giant panda habitat in Sichuan, WWF launched a field survey in the Minshan Mountains in mid-October. Jiang's quick reflexes got him out of harm's way just in time for him to see the huge rock land several centimeters from his feet. There were two further aftershocks later that day, causing Jiang and his colleagues to rush out of their shelter, an abandoned, collapsed house at a village on their monitoring route. First Panda traces found in the first field survey Ranger Jiang Zhongjun, 36, is a calm person who has experienced hundreds of dangerous situations in his 12 years of patrolling the Minshan Mountains in northern Sichuan but the aftershocks of the May 12 earthquake still stet him shudder. "Three aftershocks a day! I still felt the ground was moving several days later," says Jiang. That day was the first day rangers had entered Longchi Park at the Longxi-Hongkou nature reserve in Sichuan since the earthquake jolted "I remember one of the latest ones 1 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary forest 2,000 m above sea level. He measured the size of the feces, recorded the detailed location and ground situation of the site and collected samples for further lab analysis. southwest China nearly six months earlier. Jiang was part of a field trip collecting first-hand material on how the earthquake affected wildlife and the habitat of giant pandas in the Minshan and Qionglai mountains in Sichuan, the main habitat of giant pandas and one of the world's 25 key biodiversity areas. "It was rare to find giant panda traces in the wild even before the earthquake because the animal tries hard to avoid human beings," he says. Organized by the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) and local forestry departments, the two-week field trip was the first survey on the impact of the quake on giant panda habitats in Sichuan. The giant panda's three basic living requirements are water, bamboo and flat areas, with slopes of less than 30-40 degrees. The group's chances of finding giant panda traces were quite rare as the panda meeting places were greatly reduced by the disaster, Jiang says. Aftershocks and mudflows caused by rain had kept people out of the mountains ever since the devastating quake, measuring 8.0 on the Richter scale, killed more than 80,000 people and destroyed tens of thousands of houses. Field survey for panda habitat restoration The pilot survey chose the Qianfoshan and Longxi-Hongkou nature reserves, two heavily damaged panda reserves in Sichuan, to get a general idea of the earthquake's damage on the local ecosystem. Despite the several aftershocks, Jiang had been longing for the field survey and experienced a moment of great, albeit brief, joy when he found evidence of giant pandas still More than 40 rangers and researchers took part, setting up 15 monitoring lines, each stretching 10 to 40 km. Their daily treks, often more than 30 km, made the days long and exhausting but all coped thanks to their years of field experience. Zhu Yundong, 31, a ranger from Xiaozhaizigou nature reserve in Beichuan county, whose 5-year-old twin boys were killed in the earthquake, went on the trip to help collect evidence of wildlife in the Panda’s feces found in Longxi-Hongkou survey. © Jiang Zhongjun living in the wild. At the Longxi-Hongkou nature reserve, Jiang found fresh giant panda feces in the dense bamboo 2 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary Bioscience Institute of Sichuan University, who also attended the survey. giant panda habitat. Zhu, whose wife is still in hospital with heavy injuries caused by the earthquake, has developed a sharp nose to distinguish wild animal traces. Wild pandas' innate survival instincts would have alerted them to flee quake-triggered landslides on high ground. "The earthquake might not have caused direct population loss to the pandas but it would have damaged their habitats and blocked their migration routes, which may affect the animal's breeding in the future." Ran says. Rangers and scientists had to cross dangerous trails. He discovered dozens of traces of wild animals like leopard cats, musk deer, tufted deer and pheasants. To compare the wildlife situation before and after the disaster, the survey covered all the former monitoring and patrolling routes in the two nature reserves before the earthquake. The field survey result will help to develop future restoration plans. “Final report of the pilot survey will be complete by the end of November and other nature reserves will also conduct such survey in the near future to present a detailed and complete view of the earthquake impact to the ecosystem.” says Wang Tao, deputy director of the Qianfoshan nature reserve. The survey result will help conservationists to develop future "Wild animal traces including giant pandas' have obviously decreased, compared with before the earthquake," he says. It is unknown how many wild pandas were killed or injured in the earthquake as no panda corpses have been found in the wild so far, says Prof Ran Jianghong, from the 3 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary plans to restore panda habitat. At the Longxi-Hongkou nature reserve, 34 percent of vegetation was lost due to the earthquake, according to remote sensing results. Panda habitat and migration routes damaged Xu Weihua, a researcher at the Research Center for EcoEnvironmental Sciences under the Chinese Academy of Sciences, joined the field survey in Sichuan to see if the situation in the nature reserves tallied with the remote sensing results. There are around 1,600 pandas in the wild, according to figures from the State Forestry Administration. The pandas live in 67 nature reserves in western China's Sichuan, Shaanxi and Gansu provinces 1,200 in Sichuan, 300 in Shaanxi and 100 in Gansu. "We found that the ground situation of the vegetation damage was basically in accordance with the remote sensing results we obtained months ago," Xu says. The administration estimated in June that the panda habitat area affected by the earthquake reached 1.96 million hectares, or 83 percent of the country's total giant panda habitat areas, according to remote sensing surveys. "When giant panda’s population in a habitat is less than 60, the giant pandas are easy to fall inbreeding which leads to gene degradation," Professor Ran Jianghong says. The latest national giant panda survey found only 35 pandas in the habitat of southern section of Minshan mountains where located four nature reserves. Twenty-seven out of the 40 giant panda nature reserves in Sichuan and eight out of the 20 nature reserves in Shaanxi, as well as all the seven nature reserves in Gansu In that case, the Tudiling corridor in Maoxian county, the important channel linking the giant panda group in southern and northern Minshan Mountains will be critical for the panda’s migration. However, the newly-formed Tangjiashan quake lake inundated roads connecting Beichuan to the outside world,forcing local people take the road of the corridor. The construction plans of a road connecting Jiuzhaigou and Chengdu in Sichuan and a railway connecting Lanzhou in Gansu and Chongqing have been suspended due to the earthquake. The two large were Large damaged. area of landslide at Qianfoshan NR. 4 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary cannot quickly recover, the food chain of the giant panda will break and the panda group in the Qinling mountains will be completely separated from that in Sichuan," Li says. construction projects will pass the panda preserves. Professor Ran hopes that the post-disaster reconstruction work will take into account of the protection of giant panda's habitat and migrant routes to prevent artificial blockage and fragmentation. Panda Protection destroyed system The earthquake also caused severe damage to the panda protection system. The Sichuan Forestry Bureau Eighty panda protection stations were affected, while others, such as Gaochuan station in the Qianfoshan Reserve, were reduced to rubble. In nearby Shaanxi province, local forestry departments are considering restoring some bamboo forests after recently monitoring and patrolling in Qinling Mountains, the main giant panda habitat in Shaanxi. No trace of any panda life was found during the week-long monitoring and patrolling in the nature reserve but rangers found extensive damage to large areas of bamboo forests, the giant panda's only food. Many protection stations located above 2,000 meters were the hardest hit, bureau officials say. Structures were severely damaged as were computer systems and years of archived information. At Wolong, the quake also ruined a large number of specimens used in panda research. Wang Ge, a researcher from the International Network for Bamboo and Rattan, says one reason for the demise of the bamboo forests is the change in ground conditions and local climate caused by the quake. The snowstorms earlier this year also destroyed a large area of bamboo trees, leading to a plague of rats and further damage in Shaanxi, he says. To make things worse, the most badly affected bamboo forest areas, more than 300 hectares, bordered Sichuan, Shaanxi and Gansu provinces and were on the giant panda's migration route, says Li Qingbao, director of the reserve's administrative bureau. Gaochuan protection station at Qianfoshan NR destroyed by earthquake. “The greatest difficulty is that our protection was almost totally wiped out overnight after over 30 years of growth. It will take a long time to recover,” says Fan Zhiyong, director of the WWF species programme. "If a large area of bamboo forests died on this migration route and 5 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary to help us conduct biodiversity surveys in the disaster areas in the future,” Yan said. “We hope our influence will help speed up the restoration process.” WWF's post-earthquake work has focused on getting protection stations up and running as quickly as possible. GPS systems, computers, cameras, trucks as well as technical and financial support have been provided to start new panda habitat monitoring and patrolling. Two temporary protect stations were also set up at the Baishuihe Reserve and Anzihe Reserve with support from WWF. A double-edged sword "For conservation, the earthquake was a double-edged sword," says Xu Weihua from the Chinese Academy of Sciences. "When landslides block roads, destroy houses and bury farmland, humans have to move out, leaving their former land to wildlife," he says. With road access extremely limited in some quake-affected areas, human impact has been reduced to a minimum. Reports suggest that wildlife populations in Sichuan’s Longxi-Hongkou and Baishuihe reserves have thrived as a result. The temporary protection station supported by WWF at Baishuihe NR. Preliminary survey and patrolling in Sichuan and Shaanxi provinces has finished, which means more research projects in disaster-affected areas will start. But even with more research underway, gathering funds to rebuild nature reserves has proven challenging. With most government money has been earmarked to resolve local people’s housing problems, which puts Sichuan’s 27 badly damaged nature reserves on the back burner. Quake lake inundates a hydropower station in Qianfoshan NR "Traces of musk deer, leopard cat, tufted deer and sambar deer can now easily be found in areas that previously saw few wild animals," Xu says. Yan Yongbi, a Forestry Department official from Anxian country near the epicenter of the earthquake, says dozens of houses at Sichuan’s 80 protection stations collapsed and major infrastructure was damaged. In nearby Shaanxi, earthquake damage has forced out many longterm residence out of another giant panda habitat, the Qingmuchuan Reserve. Reports say the area’s environment is also benefiting as a “We are trying to find more support 6 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary New roads, power stations, mines and massive tourist projects have caused irreparable damage to some of China’s richest wildlife depositories, the Minshan and Qionglai mountains among them. result. China’s large population means that land resources are limited. This is a cause for alarm, notes WWF China’s Fan Zhiyong: "Human beings entered the heart of natural forests and mountains for mining, logging, poaching and farming, which has greatly damaged the sanctuary wildlife once had," he said. “The top concern during reconstruction should be reducing human disturbance on the environment.” Fan Zhiyong says. One look at the decline of the giant panda population says as much. There were roughly 2,500 wild pandas in the 1970s, but the number now stands at fewer than 1,600, according to WWF and Chinese government survey from 1999-2003. Balancing human needs with the policies and actions necessary to ensure panda habitats are restored to optimal health is a formidable challenge. If funds are available for relocation of local residents, reserve staff may have an easier time ensuring the precious habitat is naturally restored. But if funding simply isn’t available, the challenges will be greater. The situation does indeed present a razor sharp doubleedged sword. The establishment of new nature reserves has helped keep the panda population in balance. So has a 1998 ban on logging in natural forests. But progress has been blighted by large-scale infrastructure construction, leaving many groups in fragmented and isolated locations. Community matters WWF has launched surveys to learn how the May 12th earthquake impacted communities located on or near nature reserves. Using a new study tool called Rapid Environmental Impact Assessment in Disasters (REIAD), survey teams have discovered that running water, electricity and building material shortages need to be urgently addressed. Prof Ran Jianghong lights incense to mourn the dead by an earthquake lake in Qianfoshan NR, at a hyrdopowder station buried more than 100 people Through questionnaire sampling covering 30% of a residential community, group discussions, and village assembly, investigators looked into strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats villages faced in their future development. 7 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary blocked up rivers in high altitude areas effectively choking off all of the village’s water resources. The destruction of hydropower stations in reserves, for example, means many local residences have been forced to rely on firewood to supply their cooking and heating needs. This comes at considerable cost to the environment. To help solve the drinking water problem, WWF is planning to build a water pipe. Liu Fangxiang at the public kitchen, worries about the future life. A temporary boarding house at Lianghe village. 38-year-old villager Liu Fanxiang, a mother of two teenage boys, is concerned about her family's future life as most of their kiwi and officinal magnolia trees were damaged in the disaster. To remedy this, WWF plans to launch a project later this year that will provide 45 biomass gasifier stoves to three residential communities in the Wolong Nature Reserve. Surveys determined that the move would help reduce local people’s reliance on firewood. "Without enough water, we cannot resume farming. We won’t be able to make any money this year," Liu says. Most village families earn an average of 2,000-3,000 RMB per year, lower than other villages near the reserve, she says. Lianhe village was devastated in the earthquake, with 5 dead and 99% of its houses destroyed. Of its 428 people, most relied on farming and livestock for survival, but few can now support themselves. "Many people visited us after the earthquake," she says. "We hope they will bring more development projects to help us improve our lives." Lianhe entire village was relocated to a temporary residential site 20 kilometers from its original location. Power lines, roads, farmland and the forest that surrounded the village were all destroyed, cutting off major sources of income. Lianhe’s population is now completely reliant on meager government subsidies. The total destruction of their homes, possessions and livelihoods often leaves earthquake victims feeling empty and lost. "WWF drama Making matters worse, landslides 8 has organized painting, workshops and other Earthquake Six Months Anniversary mushrooms. activities to add a little color to peoples’ lives. In one case, we’re going to encourage people to paint the walls of their make-shift houses," says Chen Can from WWF’s Chengdu office. But the disaster forced all 727 people living near the reserve to move elsewhere. Government will help local people build new homes, which will also push them deep into debt. Few will be able to find new opportunities to earn a living. "If local people cannot obtain other sources of income, they might start using mountain resources," says Li Qingbao, director of the administrative bureau of the nature reserve. children play at a make-shift primary school of Longxi-Hongkou NR "WWF will help us carry out community development projects like beekeeping and tea planting in the future. This will help prevent locals from relying on the forest as a source of income," Li says. Tang Lu, a 6-year-old girl, was very excited that her school library received a number of new books donated by WWF: "I love painting and I like the new picture books in our library," Tang says. A "Green reconstruction" concept has also been introduced to conserve resources in earthquakestricken areas. To consume fewer resources, WWF has been calling for the use of environmentally-friendly construction material when rebuilding houses. Officinal magnolia farms destroyed in the quake. In nearby Shaanxi province, the earthquake destroyed most of the houses in residential communities around the Qingmuchuan Reserve, pushing many deep into the grip of poverty. Before the earthquake, villages around the nature reserve were very poor and young people went out to work, leaving only the elderly and children at home. Most made a living raising pigs and cultivating Kiwi fruit is the main income source of local villagers after earthquake at Longxi-hongkou NR. Dubbed the “Green Heart of China," 9 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary the quake-stricken area is located in the upper reaches of the Yangtze River, which is also home to the Qinling, Minshan and Qionglai mountains. The area is a biodiversity hotspot and habitat for the giant panda and other rare species. landscapes." "Restoration of this “’Green Heart,’” says Ling Lin, director of WWF’s Chengdu office, “plays a key role in China's sustainable ecological development. Proper treatment will ensure China holds on to own one of the world’s most valuable natural "Reconstruction is long-term work. Be we will work with partners from home and abroad to make sure our contributions count," Ling says. Ling reveals that WWF is considering a five-year "Green Reconstruction" framework to include recommendations and ideas from experts around the world. (All the photos except credited are taken by WangYing.) 10 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary Mountain in recovery Qingmuchuan’s first monitoring patrol since the May 12th earthquake Text / Photo By Chen Xu picture. But only a few hundred meters away sat a group of ramshackle tents, other small structures, and the ruins of mud houses that reminded me of the horrible effects of the earthquake. It’s far from over. People are still trying to recover from the damage. The Yuquanba Protection Station office, for example, collapsed in the quake and staff has since worked out of small makeshift offices. They say it’s better than working in tents. Six months have passed since the th devastating May 12 earthquake struck western China’s Sichuan Province. Though there are still aftershocks, locals are trying to break away from horrible memories and stagger back into a normal daily life. And so, it seems, is the wildlife. The Qingmuchuan Nature Reserve is the only corridor for giant pandas between the Qinling and Minshan mountains, but Qinling Mountain also hit hard by the quake. How is the reconstruction work going? And how much has been restored naturally? We are keeping our eyes on how this area of rich biodiversity—for both humans and wildlife like the giant panda— recovers from this catastrophe. With support from WWF, I visited Qingmuchuan Nature Reserve at Ningqiang County of Shaanxi Province in October 2008 in hope of finding answers. Most houses collapsed Qingmuchuan Nature Reserve is surrounded by a few small settlements. On the morning of Oct. 11th, I traveled to the town of Qingmuchuan with staff from the nature reserve. Making good time, we stopped at a bridge to take in the surroundings. Rising all around us were rough green-ridged mountains with the grey tips of small houses peaking out of the foliage at their base—a perfectly hushed, pastoral Most of the house at Changshaba village collapsed in the earthquake and the after raining season. Tents donated by WWF helped villagers a lot in the past five months. We started out again. It didn’t take us long to reach Qingmuchuan, and one of the first things I noticed were the spider webs of cracks crawling 11 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary and couch grass. over the remaining buildings. For safety, all houses have tents out front. And for those without houses, earthquake shelter tents are the only choice. I watched as Shen Zuorui did her homework on a stone slab. She is nine, and lives in Village Two at Changshaba with her four family members. When asked where her home is, she pointed to a shed and the tilted house behind; tears welled up in her eyes. Her father told me she was in Grade Three at Qingmuchuan Primary School, about 10km from her home. And with the last mushroom harvest just around the corner, the government-led relocation plan would go into full swing. At the foot of the mountain, the government offered 70 square meter temporary prefab housing to each family. “We have to manage living in such a space while we wait for a chance to build a new house. The winter is coming, and we will freeze to death if we continue to live in a shed. Anyway, it’s not safe to live here anymore,” said a local man. We arrived at our destination. I saw another small temporary structure functioning as the Qingmuchuan Protection Station. Around the area were a group of tents that differed from the others—chance had it that they were donated by WWF. Villagers say the tents have helped a lot over the past few months. Village One at Changshaba is in the core area of the nature reserve. It is also in total disrepair. There are around 50 families living there, but most able-bodied youth have left to find work after much of their farmland was returned to forestry. Other villagers are working hard on the limited remaining land, raising pigs and planting mushrooms to supplement their incomes. Even this meager amount of farming hasn’t been easy: the earthquake tore a 1km long cleft in the mountain. If a strong aftershock where to hit the area, it’s likely the entire mountain would collapse and the village reduced to rubble. The government is pushing to relocate the village: many local residents will leave their mountain homes soon. Five members of the nine year-old girl's family live in the shed behind her. Although many wood and mud houses survived, their roofs simply weren’t strong enough to handle the torrential rainstorms that came later. With their houses destroyed, villagers moved to tents at the foot of the mountain and waited for relief housing to arrive. Most of their possessions were lost and their homes reduced to little more than small sheds covered in branches But not all of the materials needed to complete the prefab housing were available. They could do nothing but wait. Fenlinba Village is in the core area of the Qingmuchuan Reserve. Few houses are left standing and no single family was lucky enough to escape the damage the earthquake 12 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary Such rough methods of keeping bees are somehow incredible--but these are the living conditions of the communities on the nature reserve. caused. Those unwilling to leave stayed in the tents provided by WWF, while many of the area’s youth moved out of the mountain. Many elderly residents say that in November, the whole village will be relocated, leaving their land to the nature reserve. Only Fenlinba Protection Station will stay. The area is mired in poverty, with the damage forcing some 727 villagers to move. Though given some government allowance, each new house on the Qingmuchuan Reserve would take on a huge debt load. But relocating will increase overall community living standards and help restore the area’s natural balance. Protection and management on the nature reserve, however, will fall entirely on the shoulders of its staff. The villagers from Changshanba and Fenlinba have been helping with protection and volunteer work over the past few years. The quake has pushed most villagers into poverty, which means locals might be forced to use protected mountain resources to make ends meet. WWF Xian Office and Qingmuchuan Nature Reserve have adjusted work plans to deal with potential threats. I asked them how they would make a living in the future: “maybe the young men can go out as migrant workers, and the elderly and children just stay behind,” one resident suggested. Fenlinba Protection Station didn’t survive. The earthquake shook the structure to the ground, with one large rock smashing though the upper portion of Wei Shunqiang’s bunk. “I was so lucky!” he noted. “If I had been taking a nap or if the earthquake happened at night, I would have been killed by that rock.” With much of their routine work shaken to pieces, the staff at Fenlinba moved into tents while waiting for construction to finish. WWF has plans to launch community development projects on the reserve. The earthquake damaged many homes, and the aftershocks stopped beekeeping as well as tea planting and some local tourism. The change from protection to development at Qingmuchuan has pushed reserve staff to move projects to new areas within the reserve. Using government policies as guidance and assistance from WWF, local residents will be able to start over again in new settlements. With new guarantees being made for their livelihoods, the reserve’s residents will find the mountains a less attractive source of income. Rough ways of beekeeping. The area also has a large number of beehives. Many were made of logs and covered by huge pieces of slate to stop rainwater from leaking in. 13 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary Xiaojiawan and on to Fenlinba would take about 5 or 6 hours. We planned to stay there for the night and cover the remaining 2 routes over the next few days. Signs of Wildlife Monitoring and patrolling of the panda’s habitat at Qingmuchuan started again in October. Conducted by WWF and its partners, patrols are slowly but surely getting back to normal after the earthquake. We left Changshaba, and after 2 hours of walking we reached our first stop on the monitoring route: a patch of farmland that has been returned to forest. I noticed some newly planted saplings and several horses wandering around the area. Horses are the only transportation villagers’ have in the mountains. WWF-supported giant panda monitoring and patrolling on Qinling Mountain, including the Qingmuchuan Nature reserve started in 2005. Through regular field data collection, special monitoring and protection regulations were established to protect giant pandas and their habitats. The restart of monitoring is an important foothold in future plans for reconstruction. There was a clear boundary between the forest and what used to be farmland, and I heard the gentle trickle of a stream. Dang Xiaowei told me that we’d reached the beginning of the monitoring route. Sitting on a rock, Dang and Mo Chenqing took out their GPS units and began to write a journal entry. The recommencement of monitoring is a monumental event for the reserve. It means, in part, that the reserve has overcome some of the difficulties that go along with post-earthquake conservation work. It also shows that they’ve gained an opportunity to start the field surveys necessary to monitor the changes affecting habitats and the surrounding communities. There are 5 routes for monitoring and patrolling on the Qingmuchuan Reserve. I was sent out with a group patrolling 3 of them, while others took on the remaining 2. I left in the early afternoon on Oct.11th with reserve staffers Dang Xiaowei and Mo Chenqing for Fenlinba. Starting at Changshaba Village at the core of the reserve, passing Xietaishan village, and then down a ridge to the village of Rolling stones destroyed the monitoring route. Monitoring notes and position recorded, we stepped into the forest and covered a leaf-covered and 14 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary torn down and made into a shelter by one of the animals--chestnut shells were scattered all over the ground. The tree above was completely bare, and in another area nearby we found more chestnut shells. The sharp squeak of a rock squirrel flashed out, protesting the noise we made. Somewhere nearby a black bear could have been vigilantly watching us moving in its territory. weedy path. Here we saw more signs of the quake: a deep groove was stamped in the earth where a massive boulder had fallen. Piles of smashed stones sharply contrasted to the luxuriant green that infused the area. I tried to find more evidence of the earthquake, but Mo Chenqing said mud and weeds had covered a lot of damage after the rainy season and that the vegetation hid most of the danger. Because of rain a few days before, the forest air was humid. Mushrooms were craning in the grass near the path, where we could see hoof prints. Mo Chenqing said it was a wild boar. We also found some prints made by the boar’s nose. Almost out of nowhere, we heard the angry squeal of an adult boar. Probably frightened by our approach, the squealing, snorting boar was protecting its food. It was harvest season. There were ripe wild nuts and grains all over the mountain. Acorns and chestnuts are the favorite of both boars and black bears. We stopped again to listen and heard the distinct sound of another boar grunting angrily around 20 meters away. Mo Chenqing suddenly leaped for a tree, shouting: “Come up, quickly! The boar is coming!” Safe in the tree, we quickly lost track of the boar even though we kept a close watch on the underbrush. We descended and the forest fell into silence: We could hear nothing but the crunch of leaves under our feet. Rangers resorted to the narrow meandering footpath that's been created in the forests by takins. At 1,692 meters we saw more telltale signs of the earthquake. Broken rocks lay under a cliff, but above we found traces and fresh takin droppings. Later we heard takins braying in the distance: they might have been calling their companions to spend the night together. The woods were too dense to see any of them, however. At the very least, the animals were alive and will continue to survive in the recovering landscape. Later, at around 1,389 meters, we found traces of a black bear. The braches of a chestnut tree had been 15 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary The route we took on the morning of October 12th was first of the five designated paths. It started at Fenlinba Protection Station and continued to Majiashan, looping around after reaching an altitude of 1,800 meters. The other group would also reach Fenlinba in the evening and we would spend the night together. The next morning we would again start out on two different routes and finally meet at Qingmuchuan when we completed the circuit. evidence of vegetation, especially arbor. Both groups started out from Fenlinba on the morning of the 13th, taking two different routes. I followed Wei Shuqiang and Dang Xiaowei on the second route, walking along the old path between Shaanxi and Gansu Provinces until we reached the boarder, then took the ridge and followed a stream back to Fenlinba. After that we hurried to Qingmuchuan to meet the other group and wrap up the monitoring. Mo Chenqing and Wei Shuqiang left at dawn, taking a machete with them to hack a path through the bush. There were no villages along the way where Mo and Wei could pick up supplies, so they had to return to Fenlinba before dark. Dang Xiaowei accompanied me on a visit to a community in the area. There used to be a lot of people living along the route; all that remains now are basic dwellings and pear trees. We were trudging through the autumn sunshine, but found it was too late when we finally got to the pear trees. The pears on the first tree were small. They didn’t taste bad, don’t get me wrong, but there wasn’t much fruit on them. Some boar droppings were under the tree. Wei Shuqiang said there might still be trees with big juicy sweet pears out front. Disappointment struck as soon as we got there: the pear tree was too big to climb. There were a few deep scratches left by black bears on the trunk, with a pile of discarded branches at the base. As we searched for more evidence of the bear, we noticed the situation was even worse than we had originally anticipated: Boars had eaten up every pear on the ground. We moved on in hope of finding more, but quickly discovered that Golden monkeys, macaque and black bears had already eaten almost all of the fruit. We could do nothing with the pears on the tree but watch and sigh. Staring at what was left of the fruit under the trees, Wei Shuqiang Mo and Wei returned safely from their trek. I glanced at their journals: “found a living sambar at 1,224 meters; trace of takin at 1,238 meters; trace of boar at 1,252 meters; found traces of hog badger at 1,397 meters; traces of black bears at 1,488 meters; golden monkeys at 1,801 meters, with shoots and bark under trees; found a large area of arrow bamboo that had grown to 2 or 3 meters; no trace of giant pandas.” A pity they didn’t find any evidence of giant pandas, especially since we are in the only corridor between Qinling and Minshan. Where were the pandas? The other monitoring group was made up of three members: Liu Tao, Su Ning and Pang Shihua. They also made it to Fenlinba before nightfall on the 12th. I checked their monitoring journals, finding few records of living animals but rich 16 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary with me. The dense woods of Qingmuchuan still appear to be full of wildlife. sighed: “Poor humans! We can only pick pears like boars do.” Endangered bamboo The monitoring routes that start at Fenlinba border Sichuan, Shaanxi and Gansu provinces. Walking along an old path between Shaanxi and Gansu, the scenery is beautiful and offers few hints that a devastating earthquake recently shook the area. The golden-hued woods above 1,600 meters shone vibrantly against a blue sky; streams lapped against lichen covered rocks and plump wild gooseberry hung for one last moment before falling off the branch. But if you looked a little closer, traces of the destruction that scarred the area only six months ago weren’t hard to spot. A black bear was spotted during the patrolling. When reaching 1,790 meters on the second route, we saw some oak braches shaking wildly. Taking it as golden monkeys, we rushed there excitedly. To our astonishment we didn’t see any monkey, but instead the fresh paw prints of a black bear on the trunk. We were totally shocked! We could be in a lot of danger if the bear were nearby. The first major threat to Qingmuchuan Nature Reserve was damaged bamboo, the giant pandas’ main source of food. Later we saw a path made by takin at 1,800 meters above sea level. It was zigzagging along the mountain ridge, sometimes going though the bamboo and sometimes the bush below the arbor. We had to crouch and endure branches whipping every part of our bodies. The smell of fresh takin urine was in the air. Then we saw takin hoof prints in mud, both big and small, walking together. They could be watching us somewhere in the deep forest, but we could not see anything. The reserve’ management bureau says 4 strong aftershocks hit Qingmuchuan after May 12th, happening on May 25, May 27, August 1 and September 12 Mudrock flows and rock falls soon began to seriously damage the reserve’s bamboo groves, with large areas of the woody perennial evergreen dying. Giant pandas were then left with little to eat. As we started back I saw a porcupine quill. It was thrust deeply into the mud, probably after being shot at a predator. I picked it up and wiped off the dust. Judging from its length and strength, I could tell it was from a healthy adult, so I kept the quill and brought it back home On the second monitoring route, we saw a huge area of bamboo blooming, while other tracks had already flowered and died. More still has dried up, with only stems left as a reminder. Walking along the mountain ridge we could see a 17 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary prominent border between old and new bamboo growths. Dang Xiaowei told me the area represented only a small part of the endangered bamboo in the nature reserve. Natural disasters have harmed 1500 hectares of bamboo at Qingmuchuan, of which 300 hectares have died, mainly on the borders between Sichuan and Gansu Provinces. This area is a key part of the giant panda corridor in Shaanxi, Gansu and Sichuan and the Qingmuchuan Reserve plays an irreplaceable role in the mix and transaction of the giant panda population. If the bamboo groves continue to die, the lack of available food means the giant panda corridor between Qinglin and Minshan will cease to exist. Given that giant pandas cannot migrate without a reliable food supply, this would be an absolute disaster. Bamboo bloomed in Qingmuchuan NR. Large area of bamboo died. Why was the bamboo in Qingmuchuan blooming and dying? Was the earthquake totally to blame? A report from the International Network for Bamboo and Rattan (INBAR) says many factors could cause the death of bamboo at Qingmuchuan: the earthquake and changes in climate and soil; Rhizomys sinensis, the Chinese bamboo rat, had devoured the root systems and pushed the plant down from 1,300 meters to 1,000 meters; 30% of the bamboo groves on the shady slopes had been frozen by the heavy snow in 2008; and large areas of bamboo died unexplained deaths in Yindongzi and Maojialiang. 18 But Qingmuchuan is making a backup plan. According to Li Baoqing, head of the reserve’s management bureau, a thorough survey will be conducted and then new groves will be planted in affected areas. They also want to raise public awareness on the situation and request outside assistance to plant bamboo above 900 meters. This, they hope, will help maintain the only corridor between Qinling and Minshan. Urgent reconstruction Qingmuchuan’s monitoring trails were badly damaged by the earthquake. Few dared risking a trip into the mountains, so many of the trails we were trying to follow had been reclaimed by the mountains. On the third monitoring route, the woods above 1,400 meters grew increasingly dense. Thick masses of fern flanked both sides of the trail, while weeds had clamored over what once provided direction underfoot. Earthquake Six Months Anniversary sensing map--experience was no longer enough to guide us. Mo Dengqing was familiar with the area and leading us forward. The ridge stands at 1,733 meters above sea level. Though the altitude didn’t climb much higher, the dense vegetation made it difficult to move forward. Since about 1,500 meters we had to make our way directly over, on and through the foliage: we fought against vines underfoot and branches and thorns overhead. When reaching 1,600 meters we walked though bamboo and arbor, making our way up to the ridge along the animal path. Large trees prevented us from getting a view of the ridge, with the sky appearing in cracks between massive branches. We planed to spend 5 hours reaching our destination, but we only able to cover half that distance. The path to the foot of the mountain was even more difficult to walk on. Broken rocks caused chaos around the ridge and we could not even find a trail made by animals. On top of that, it was getting dark. We took out torches, but our lights could only cover one or two meters ahead in such dense. We were staggering, trying to hold on to branches or vines. Still, we tried to ignore the difficultly of our journey and move faster. GPS helped rangers to find ways when lost With the help of the GPS and satellite-sensing map, Dang Xiaowei found out where we were. Checking old monitoring journals, he said we were 200 meters away from the monitoring route. And if all went well, we would soon arrive at Xiaojiawan. Relaxing slightly after finding the way, the pale moonlight enabled us to see the mountain opposite, where we found a huge white plate. It was a gash made by the earthquake, but now functioned as a trail marker. Around 40 minutes later we arrived at Fenlinba Protection Station, our We were lost. One moment, while walking on a 10-meter wide belt of ground, I felt my feet sinking. I quickly jumped on to a dry trunk on and informed the rest of the group of the danger. Looking around with torches, we found ourselves walking on an endless crest of a valley. The earthquake dislodged mud and stone, and all the plants were pushed in to a massive pile in the distant darkness. Dang Xiaowei took out a GPS and satellite remote 19 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary destination. We could feel the warmth from the lights that surrounded us. I checked the time: 21:34. We spent 8 hours in the forest on route 3. clear the way. Wei Shuqiang mentioned that people coming from Gansu no longer come this way when going to Qingmuchuan Town’s market because of all of the nearby villages were empty. The thick thorns and weeds certainly don’t help matters much either. Fenlinba Protection Station is special because of its location. Three paths from Sichuan and Gansu provinces unite directly in front of the gate to Fenlinba Protection Station, and extend to Qingmuchuan Town. The station’s location also helped prevent unwanted and potentially harmful access to nature reserve. According to Qingmuchuan Nature Reserve staff, the earthquake was a double-edged sword for nature conservation. If following former plans, it might have taken over a decade to move Changshaba Village out of the core area. But the earthquake forced the government to move the village out immediately, thereby reducing human interference while the reserve healed. Waking up in the tent on the morning of the 12th, I was cold. I could not imagine how the reserve staff could survive through the winter in this weather. Outside I saw some lacelike clouds covering the mountains along the opposite riverbank. Wei Shuqiang told me I had been walking down from the very mountains I was looking at last night. I looked for a while but could not see any trace of a path--maybe we just flew down on the clouds. Patrolling on the second route was also hard work. It used to take only 6 six hours round trip, but this time we spent 9 hours from start to finish. With no monitoring for 5 months, the path was hidden under a thick tangle of weeds. We were lucky that the weather was cool and no poisonous Qinling vipers lay in wait as we struggled along. This may not be the case in the coming spring and summer. Rangers need to traverse frozen rivers many times. But there are also many disadvantages. In the future, rangers will face dangerous areas alone. And without the surrounding villages, Fenlinba Protection Station will find it hard to manage its electric bills. They will thus have to convert to new alternative energies like solar--but that would also cost a lot. Road maintenance could also be a problem. After the earthquake, huge boulders blocked off the road to large vehicles. Reserve residents also had to traverse frozen—and sometimes flooded--rivers around 9 On the return journey, we went over a hillside that was farmland being returned to forest. The old path was covered by weeds higher than a human being and further defended by thorns; we had to use a scythe to 20 Earthquake Six Months Anniversary times before destinations. reaching quake victims is key. Building temporary houses for villagers from Changshaba Village means, however, that Ningqiang County will not be able to afford reconstruction costs due to limited reconstruction funds. their Most of Qingmuchuan’s 20km of monitoring trails were damaged by the collapse of the mountain, falling rocks and weeds. Rebuilding a safe monitoring path remains a problem. The Qingmuchuan Nature Reserve is in dire need of outside support to rebuild the giant panda corridor. With luck, this biodiversity hotspot will regain its balance. Basic structures on the nature reserve were severely damaged as well. Three protection stations collapsed, and three other protection and education centers were rendered useless hulks. A great deal of equipment was also destroyed, which stopped routine office work as well as field protection and management. Qingmuchuan’s direct losses stand at around RMB4,980,000. The costs of recovering monitoring abilities to prequake levels are staggering. Where are the funds for this? With the arrival of winter, providing shelter for (Thanks Chris Chaplin for his great effort on polishing the two articles.) For further information, please contact: Zeng Ming, Communication Manager Yangtze Programme WWF China Programme Tel: +86 10 65227100 ext. 3298 Fax: +86 10 65227300 Email:[email protected] 21
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