PHYSICOCHEMICAL AND USAGE PROPERTIES
OF FACIAL CLEANING GELS WITH THE ADDITION
OF THE SELECTED ACTIVE COMPONENT
Zięba Małgorzata*, Klimaszewska Emilia, Małysa Anna,
Olga Jagiełło, Gruszczyńska Marlena, Gajowiak Maja
Kazimierz Pulaski University of Technology and Humanities in Radom
Department of Physical and Inorganic Chemistry, Chair of Chemistry
Faculty of Materials Science and Design
* Corresponding author: Chrobrego Str. 27, 26-600 Radom, [email protected]
Abstract: The article discusses the division of vitamins and the role of vitamin B3
in the human body and in cosmetic products. The objective of the article
was to develop facial cleaning gels containing vitamin B3 and to verify the impact
of the ingredient concentration on the selected physicochemical and usage properties
of the manufactured gels. The original gel formulas were developed based
on literature data and own experience. The influence of vitamin B3 concentration
on the selected physicochemical and functional properties of facial cleaning gels
was discussed: gel viscosity, foam-forming ability and foam stability index, emulsify
ability of fat and gel spreadability. Based on the obtained results it was found
that the preparations showed similar, and even more beneficial properties
in comparison with the commercial preparation. All the original gels were stable.
It has been shown that the viscosity of cosmetic products decreases with the increasing
vitamin concentration. On the basis of the conducted experiments it was found
that the volume of the created foam declines with the increasing concentration
of vitamin B3. The volume of the created foam decreases over time. Moreover,
the introduction of vitamin PP into the formula was found to result in the achievement
of even maximum values of the foam stability index. Furthermore, it was
demonstrated that the higher the content of vitamin in the formula, the lower
spreadability of the preparation and cleaning ability of the gel. Concluding
the conducted tests one may formulate a generalization that the objective of the paper
196
has been achieved. It was furthermore found that vitamin PP may be successfully
used in market facial gels.
Keywords: cleaning facial gels, physicochemical and usage properties, vitamin B3
1. INTRODUCTION
Vitamins have very important functions in the human body.
The substances have a positive effect on numerous processes occurring
in the human body. They are organic compounds. Vitamins may be divided
according to their solubility into: these soluble in water (vitamin C, B1, B2,
B3, B5, B6, B7, B9, B12, B13, B15, P) and these soluble in fats
(vitamin A, D, E, K) [Petsits and Kipper 2007, Kaczmarczyk 2009, Szczypka
and Gajewska 2002].
Water-soluble
vitamins
are
not
accumulated
in
the
system
and are expelled together with urine and sweat. Due to the constant removal
of these from the system, they need to be supplemented with food
or in the form of vitamin supplements. Fat-soluble vitamins, however,
may be accumulated in fats and stored in the liver and adipose tissue.
The system cannot produce vitamins itself, and the main source
of their supply is food. The compounds are not a building material nor do they
serve as a source of energy. They can, however, serve the following roles:
·
support and regulate metabolic processes (metabolism);
·
support fat and carbohydrate conversion into energy;
·
support correct enzyme activity;
·
cooperate in the process of regeneration of damaged tissues;
·
interact in the creation of blood cells, hormones and antibodies [Petsits
and Kipper 2007, Kaczmarczyk 2009, Szczypka and Gajewska 2002].
197
Some of the functions may be successfully used in cosmetic products.
1.1. The role of vitamin B3 in the human body and as a component
in cosmetic products
The following substances are known as vitamin B3: nicotinamide,
nicotinic acid and derivatives show biological activity of the nicotinamide.
The compounds show similar biological activity and one may easily transform
into one another. For instance, nicotinic acid is a crystalline substance,
dissolves well in hot water, much less so in cold water. It has a delicate aroma
and sour taste. The melting point of the acid is 236-237°C. Nicotinic acid
is well soluble in the presence of alkalis, methanol, glycerol and polypropylene
glycol and diluted acids. It does not dissolve in ether and chloroform
[Moszczyński and Pyć 1998, 1999].
Nicotinamide, in turn, is a fine crystalline substance, colorless,
with bitter taste. Its melting point is 131-132°C. It is highly soluble in water
and ethanol, moderately soluble in glycerol, butanol, ethylene glycol, acetone
and chloroform, and sparingly soluble in ether and benzene.
The synonyms to vitamin B3 are: vitamin PP, nicotinamide, nicotinic
acid, niacin, nicotinic acid amide, niacinamide, pellagramin. The terms
will be used interchangeably in the paper.
Vitamin PP has very important functions in the human body.
It is responsible for: control of sugar and cholesterol in blood, oxidation
and reduction processes in the body. It interacts in the breakdown
of carbohydrates, fatty acids and amino acids. In addition, it has a positive
effect on the nervous system and human mental condition, facilitates sleep.
It has a significant role in maintaining the proper blood supply of the skin
and hair condition.
198
Vitamin B3 deficiency may result in adverse effects, such as: insomnia,
headaches, nervous system disorders. Moreover, a too low level of vitamin B3
has an impact on the development of skin diseases, e.g. pellagra (manifested
by skin inflammation and gastrointestinal disorders).
An excess of vitamin B3 results in: abnormal heart rates, increased blood
glucose level, headaches, tingling, reddening of skin, tinnitus, indigestion, liver
failure, heart arrhythmia.
Vitamin PP not only has significant functions in the human body but also
may be an important component of cosmetic products. Niacin removes toxic
substances from the system, affects the water balance of the skin, regulates
skin exfoliation and moisture, eliminates inflammation, reduces the intensity
of acne, regulates the functioning of skin blood vessels, and smooths wrinkles.
Its characteristic feature is the ease of penetration into the horny layer
of the skin, no irritations of the skin, protection of the skin against harmful
factors, e.g. detergents. To date, niacin has been already used in: revitalizing
creams and hair conditioners, skin discoloration preparations, anti-dandruff
cosmetic products [Petsits and Kipper 2007, Kaczmarczyk 2009, Szczypka
and Gajewska 2002, Moszczyński and Pyć 1998, Moszczyński and Pyć 1999].
1.2. Facial cleaning gels
Cosmetic cleaning gels are not gels from the physical perspective.
Usually, they are mixtures of surfactants capable of creating micelles,
which in appropriate conditions change their sizes and shapes and thus result
in increases of the preparation's viscosity. The composition of cleaning gels
(e.g. shower gels, facial cleaning gels) mainly consist of:
199
·
surfactants – the compounds have cleaning effect, demonstrate
the capability of lowering surface tension. For instance, sodium lauryl
sulfate, betaine derivatives;
·
fat derivatives, e.g. plant oils. The substances demonstrate
remoisturizing effect on the skin;
·
preservatives,
e.g.
sodium
benzoate,
DMDM
Hydantoin,
p-hydroxybenzoic acid derivatives (parabens). The substances
are aimed at protecting the cosmetic product against the development
of pathogenic microorganisms;
·
active substances, e.g. plant extracts, D-panthenol (characterized
by various properties, e.g.: moisturizing, soothing irritations,
skin nourishing);
·
compounds promoting the retention of moisture, e.g. glycerin,
polypropylene glycol, sorbitol. The substances are aimed at protecting
the gel against drying;
·
fragrance compositions and colorants, serving hedonistic functions;
·
viscosity regulators, e.g. sodium chloride, cellulose derivatives;
·
aqua, used mainly as a solvent for other components of the cosmetic
product [Petsits and Kipper 2007, Mrukot 2004, Brud and Glinka
2001].
2. FACIAL GEL MARKET ANALYSIS
An analysis was conducted for 50 facial washing gels available
at the Polish market in the period from January to June 2014. The market
analysis was performed in large-area shops, beauty supply shops, perfumeries
200
and pharmacies in Radom. The studies were carried out regarding: gel
functions, price, packaging capacity and vitamins present in the formula.
8%
cleansing
8%
40%
mattifying
9%
refreshing
anti-bacterial
15%
moisturizing
exces sebum reduction
20%
Figure 1. Functions of facial cleaning gels. Source: Authors’ own work
Facial washing gels with the skin cleansing function are predominant
on the Polish market (40%) (Fig. 1). 1/5th of the products has a mattifying
function and 15% a skin refreshing function. Also present on the market
are gels with anti-bacterial (9%), moisturizing (8%) and excess sebum
eliminating (8%) effects.
An analysis of commercial facial gels prices was performed per 100 ml
of the product (Fig. 2). A vast majority of the analyzed cosmetic products
(39%) are these in the lowest price bracket, the price of 100 ml of which does
not exceed PLN 10. The second largest group are gels, whose prices range
between PLN 10.01 and 20.00. The analysis indicates that a relatively large
group are preparations that cost over PLN 40 per 100 ml. These account
for 14% of the total. The niche products (4% and 6%) are gels, whose price
oscillates in the following ranges: PLN 30.01-40.00 and 20.01-30.00
per 100 ml, respectively.
201
14%
4%
39%
up to 10 PLN
10,01-20,00 PLN
6%
20,01-30,00 PLN
30,01-40,00 PLN
above 40 PLN
37%
Figure 2. Prices of facial cleaning gels per 100 ml. Source: Authors’ own work
The market analysis included also the packaging capacity of the offered
facial cleaning gels (Fig. 3).
6%
11%
32%
200 ml
150 ml
13%
125 ml
100 ml
75 ml
38%
Figure 3. Capacity of commercial packaging of facial cleaning gels. Source: Authors’
own work
202
Nearly 40% of the analyzed product containers had the capacity
of 150 ml. Face cleaning gels are also sold in containers of 200 ml. 125 ml
containers account for 13% of the products and 100 ml - 11% of the total. A
small group are cosmetic products in 75 ml bottles (6%).
Based upon the review of gel formulas, a listing of vitamins used in facial
gels was prepared (Fig. 4).
10%
10%
vitamin B5
vitamin E
vitamin A
20%
vitamin H
60%
Figure. 4. Vitamins used in market facial cleaning gels. Source: Authors’ own work
A vast majority of the formulations (60%) contain vitamin B5.
1/5th of the formulas contains vitamin E. On the other hand vitamins A and H
were present in 10% of the compositions. Based on the market analysis
no vitamin B3 usage was identified in the composition of facial gels.
The objective of the paper is to develop facial cleaning gels containing
vitamin B3 and to verify the impact of the ingredient concentration
on the selected physicochemical and functional properties of the manufactured
gels. The verification of physicochemical and functional properties of original
cosmetic products will be performed through the evaluation of: viscosity,
foam-forming properties, emulsify ability and spreadability. The properties
203
of original gels with vitamin PP will be compared regarding the properties
of the base gel (without added vitamin) and the commercial product.
3. MATERIAL AND METHODS
3.1. Research material
The composition of facial cleaning gels was developed based
on the literature data [Mrukot 2004, Brud and Glinka 2001, Zieliński 2009,
Williams and Schmitt 1992] and own research [Sułek et al. 2006, Wasilewski
and Klimaszewska 2007]. The ingredient names were provided according to
the INCI terminology. 6 original gel formulas were developed (Table 1).
As the first one the base gel without vitamin B3 was developed (formula O).
Subsequently, 5 gels with vitamin B3 in concentrations from 0.25% to 2%
(formulas A-E) were made. In the paper they will be referred to as original
formulas.
In order to compare the functional properties of the obtained test
samples, a commercial gel in the medium price bracket was used (indicated
in the paper as H), whose INCI composition was the following:
Aqua, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castrol Oil, Glycerin,
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Tocopheryl
Aceate, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate
Crossopolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Mannitol, Cellouse,
Hydroksypropropyl Methylcellulose, Isostearyl Isostearate, Parfum, AlphaIsomethyllonone, Citronellol, Limonene, Methylparaben, Methylisothiazolinone, CI 42090, CI 16255, CI 77007.
204
Table 1. Original facial gel formulas. Source: Authors’ own work
Formula
INCI name for
ingredient
Functionality
O
A
B
C
D
E
1.50
2.00
Content [wt %]
Aqua
solvent
up to 100
Sodium Lureth
Sulfate
cleaning
6.5
Cocamide DEA
foam-forming
2.5
Cocoamidopropyl
Betaine
foam-forming
2.5
Niacinamide
demulcent
Lactid Acid
pH regulator
up to pH 5.5-6.0
Sodium Chloride
viscosity
adjuster
2.5
Perfume
provides
fragrance
q.s.
Preservative
protection
against bacteria
q.s.
0.00
0.25
0.50
1.00
where: q.s.- the sufficient quality of the given ingredient.
3.2. Viscosity
The measurements of viscosity of the produced gels were performed
using a Brookfield DV-I+ viscometer, under the rotational speed of 50 rpm,
at the temperature of 220°C. Each measurement is an arithmetic mean
from three independent measurements.
3.3. Foam-forming properties
Based on the Polish Standard [PN-74/C-04801, 1974] methodology,
an evaluation of foam-forming properties (foam-forming ability, foam stability
index) for original facial cleaning gels was conducted. The measurements
205
were performed 3 times. The results of the measurements are presented
in the figures.
3.4. Fat emulsify ability
The testing of emulsify ability of fat by the obtained facial cleaning
gels was made based on the methodology described in the literature
[Wasilewski 2005].
3.5. Spreadability
The evaluation of spreadability consists in the measurement
of dissolution time of the tested cosmetic product sample in distilled water.
The precise measurement procedure was described in the literature
[Sułek et al. 2006].
4. TEST RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
4.1. Facial gel viscosity
One of the discriminants of washing preparations is their viscosity (η).
Its optimal value ensures proper application and distribution on the surface
of the skin. The η results of original preparations and the commercial product
(H) are demonstrated in Fig. 5.
Based on the results of the viscosity testing, it was concluded
that the introduction of vitamin PP in the formula results in decreasing
the η value. The highest value of the measured parameter was observed
for the base gel (1800 mPa·s). Already the smallest concentration of the active
ingredient (c = 0.25%) caused a threefold decrease in η. The maximum
addition of vitamin B3 resulted in the decrease of the gel viscosity to the value
206
of 180 mPa·s, which accounted for a tenfold reduction of the measured value
compared to the base gel. The market facial cleaning gel was characterized
by viscosity at the level of 14000 mPa·s.
14000
Viscisity [mPa . s]
12000
10000
8000
6000
4000
2000
0
H
O
A
B
C
D
Facial cleaning gel formula
E
Figure 5. Viscosity of original facial cleaning gels. Source: Authors’ own work
4.2. Foam-forming properties
Heavy and lasting foam intensifies the aesthetic sensations during
washing. The results of the measurements are presented in Fig. 6 and Fig. 7.
The foam-forming ability of facial cleaning gels (Fig. 6) declines
as the content of vitamin B3 in the preparation increases. The maximum value
V was recorded after 10s from the creation of the gel without the vitamin
content (V = 160 cm3), and the lowest value for the gel containing an addition
of concentration c = 2% (V=100 cm3). In the case of gels produced using own
formulas, a higher volume of foam was observed (V = 100÷160 cm3)
in comparison to V reported for the market gel (V = 100 cm3).
The volume of the created foam decreases over time. The differences
of the measured values after the period of 10 s and 1 min are even up to 30%.
207
Foam-forming ability [cm3]
200
150
after 10 s
100
after 1 min.
after 10 min.
50
0
H
O
A
B
C
D
E
Facial cleaning gel formula
Figure 6. Foam-forming ability of original facial cleaning gels. Source: Authors’
own work
The second standard criterion for the evaluation of washing preparations
is foam stability index (FSI). In Fig. 7 the dependence of FSI on the type
of formula was illustrated.
Foam stability index [%]
100
80
60
40
20
0
H
O
A
B
C
D
E
Facial cleaning gel formula
Figure 7. Foam stability index of original facial cleaning gels. Source: Authors’
own work
208
The data analysis (Fig. 7) indicates that the lowest foam stability index
(FSI) was obtained for the commercial facial gel (FSI=83%). In the case
of the formulas marked with the symbols A÷C the values of the measured
parameter were within the range of FSI=90÷96%. Whereas for the formulas O,
D and E, the maximum possible FSI values of 100% were recorded.
4.3. Fat emulsify ability
Fat emulsify ability is one of the most important distinguishing features
of modern cleaning preparations. Washing the skin is an indispensable
hygienic procedure and one of the stages of cleaning is the emulsification
of fat. An assessment was made of the capacity to emulsify fat by the gel
prototypes, and the results are presented in Fig. 8.
Fat emulsify abality [piont]
5
4
3
2
1
0
H
O
A
B
C
D
Facial cleaning gel formula
E
Figure 8. Fat emulsify ability by original facial cleaning gels. Source: Authors’
own work
The results of the test indicate that the addition of vitamin PP
in concentrations within the range of 0.25-1.00 % results in the effectiveness
of fat removal at the level of 3 points. The efficiency is also similar for the base
209
(O) and commercial (H) preparations. An increase in the vitamin concentration
(formulas: D and E) results in decreased emulsify ability of fat rated 2
and 1 points.
4.4. Gel spreadability
It is crucial that cleaning preparations are characterized by a short
spreadability time. On the one hand, it makes the gels easy to rinse with water.
On the other hand, it proves good spreadability of the ingredients
and the creation of effective cleaning bath. The test results are presented
in Fig. 9.
40
Spreadability [s]
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
H
O
A
B
C
D
Facial cleaning gel formula
E
Figure 9. Spreadability of original facial cleaning gels. Source: Authors’ own work
The spreadability interval for the original preparations was t = 7÷16 s.
The gel without the active substance (O) spreadability was the slowest
to dissolve (t = 16 s). By contrast, the spreadability of the cosmetic product
with a 2% content of vitamin B3 was higher (t = 7 s). The cosmetic product
marked H showed the longest spreadability time of 30 s. The evaluated
210
parameter is related to gel viscosity. In the case of preparations with high
viscosity, an increased time of spreadability was observed, whereas the
products with lowered viscosity show quick spreadability.
5. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS
The objective of the paper was to develop a composition of facial
cleaning gels containing an active supplement in the form of vitamin B3
and to verify the impact of the ingredient on the selected physicochemical
and usage properties of the manufactured cosmetic products. The obtained test
results were compared regarding the market facial gel. Based on the conducted
tests, the following was observed:
·
The presence of vitamin B3 in the formula significantly affects
the viscosity of the gel. The higher the content in the preparation,
the lower the product's viscosity. The value of the measured parameter
for original gels is substantially lower than the viscosity
of the commercial preparation;
·
The content of the ingredient selected for testing results in a reduction
of the volume of the created foam. The value V of the commercial
preparation is comparable to the volume of foam formed
by the cosmetic products in which the concentration of vitamin PP
was at the level of c ≥ 1.5%. The maximum FSI values were obtained
for the base gel and gels containing 1.5% and 2% of the vitamin
in the formula;
·
The emulsify ability of the produced preparations oscillates between
3 to 1 points. The results are favorable because the produced gels
will not cause excessive removal of lipid layer of the face, resulting
in its dryness;
211
·
the spreadability of original facial cleaning gels is more effective
than
the
measured
parameter
of
the
commercial
product.
A short spreadability time is the indicator of the effectiveness
of cosmetic product flushing from the surface of the skin.
The conducted studies indicated that the objective of the paper
was achieved. Prototypes of facial cleaning gels with the addition of vitamin
B3 were developed. Also, the effect of the ingredient concentration
on the selected physicochemical and usage properties of the prepared gels
was evaluated. It was found that the properties of original gels with vitamin PP
are comparable and even more beneficial than the properties of the commercial
product.
6. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This paper has been financed from the funds of the project entitled:
Chemical engineer for new chemical technologies co-financed from the funds
of the European Union as part of the European Social Fund. Paper
no. POKL.04.01.02-00-192/12.
REFERENCES
Brud W.S., Glinka R. 2001, Technology of cosmetic products, MA Printing House,
Łódź.
Kaczmarczyk D. 2009, The Significance of Group B Vitamins in Cosmetology,
Polish Journal of Cosmetology, vol. 3; pp. 156 - 167.
Moszczyński P., Pyć R. 1998, Vitamin Biochemistry, part I, Group B Vitamins
and Co-enzymes, PWN Scientific Publishers, Warszawa.
Moszczyński P., Pyć R. 1999, Vitamin Biochemistry, part II, Lipophilic Vitamins
and Ascorbic Acid, PWN Scientific Publishers, Warszawa.
Mrukot S., 2004, Cosmetic Formulary, MWSZ Publishing Agency, Kraków.
212
Petsits X., Kipper K. 2007, Decorative Cosmetology and Face Care. Knowledge
of Cosmetic Products and Their Correct Application, MedPharm Polska,
Wrocław.
PN-74/C-04801 1974, Surfactants. Determination of Foam-forming Properties,
Warszawa.
Sułek M.W., Zięba M., Żyła A. 2006, Quality Estimation of Foam Baths Containing
Silicone Glycols, Polish Journal of Commodity Science, vol. 3, issue 8, pp. 81-89.
Szczypka M., Gajewska J. 2002, Vitamins and Minerals 101, Ergos Publishing
Agency, Warszawa.
Wasilewski T., Klimaszewska E. 2007, Role of Moisturing Agents in Quality
Improvement of Shower Gels, Polish Journal of Commodity Science, vol. 1, issue
10, pp. 62-63.
Wasilewski T. 2005, Quality Improvement of Hand Dishwashing Liquids Selection
of Concentration of Nonionic Surfactants, Polish Journal of Commodity Science,
vol. 4, issue 5, pp. 28-37.
Williams D.F, Schmitt W.H. 1992, Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics
and Toiletries Industry, Blackie Academic & Professional, Glasgow.
Zieliński R. 2009, Surfactants. Structure, Properties, Applications, Publishing House
of University of Economics in Poznan, Poznań.
STRESZCZENIE
W artykule przeprowadzono dyskusję nad podziałem witamin oraz rolą witaminy B3
w organizmie człowieka i w kosmetykach. Celem artykułu było opracowanie
myjących żeli do twarzy zawierających witaminę B3 oraz weryfikacja wpływu
stężenia tego składnika na wybrane właściwości fizykochemiczne i użytkowe
wytworzonych żeli. Oryginalne receptury żeli zaprojektowano w oparciu o dane
literaturowe i doświadczenie własne. Dyskutowano wpływ koncentracji witaminy B3
na wybrane właściwości fizykochemiczne i użytkowe myjących żeli do twarzy:
lepkość żeli, zdolność pianotwórczą i wskaźnik trwałości piany, zdolność
emulgowania zabrudzeń tłuszczowych i roztwarzalność żeli. Na podstawie
213
uzyskanych rezultatów stwierdzono, że preparaty wykazywały właściwości zbliżone,
a
nawet
korzystniejsze,
w
porównaniu
z
preparatem
handlowym.
Wszystkie oryginalne żele były stabilne. Wykazano, że lepkość kosmetyków maleje
wraz
ze
stężeniem dodatku
witaminy.
Na
podstawie
przeprowadzonych
eksperymentów stwierdzono, że objętość wytworzonej piany maleje w funkcji
rosnącego stężenia witaminy B3. Objętość powstałej piany maleje także w funkcji
czasu. Dodatkowo stwierdzono, że wprowadzenie witaminy PP do formulacji
skutkuje uzyskaniem nawet maksymalnej wartości wskaźnika trwałości piany.
Dowiedziono również, że im większa zawartość witaminy w składzie tym mniejsza
rozpuszczalność
preparatu
oraz
zdolność
myjąca
żelu.
Podsumowując
przeprowadzone badania można sformułować uogólnienie, że cel pracy został
osiągnięty. Wykazano również, że witamina PP z powodzeniem może być użyta
w rynkowych żelach do twarzy.
Słowa kluczowe: myjące żele do twarzy, właściwości fizykochemiczne, witamina B3
214