RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 156 Salt, dunes and monumental cities Route 15 From Orihuela to Elx 1 • Museum: Museo Miguel Hernández 2 • Palm Grove: Palmeral de San Antón 3 • Castle: Castillo de Orihuela 4 • Paraje las Norias 5 • Mount: Sierra de Orihuela 6 • Hurchillo 7 • Reservoir: Embalse de la Pedrera 8 • Mount: Sierra de Escalona 9 • Las Zahurdas 10 • Lagoon: Laguna Roja de las Salinas de Torrevieja 11 • Lagoon: Laguna Salada de La Mata 12 • Tower: Torre del Moro 13 • Paraje de la Zorra 14 • Mount: El Chaparral 15 • Canal de las Salinas 16 • Mount: El Moncayo 17 • Castle: Castillo de Guardamar 18 • Park: Dunas de Guardamar 19 • Canal Azarbe de la Reina 20 • Wetlands: Humedal Hondo Amorós 21 • 22 • 23 • 24 • 25 • 26 • 27 • 28 • 29 • El Oasis Santa Águeda Lagoon: Laguna del Fondo Mount: Sierra de Crevillent Centre: Centro Educativo Los Molinos Hermitage: Ermita de San Pascual Irrigation channel: 2nd Elevación de Riegos de Levante Tower: Torre Tamarit Castle: Castillo de Santa Pola 30 • Lighthouse: Faro de Santa Pola 31 • Mount: Serra de Santa Pola 32 • Hermitage: Santa Ana 33 • Hermitage: Ermita de San Vicent El Bassars 34 • Palm Grove: Palmeral Hort del Cura 35 • El Altet 36 • El Clot de Galvany 37 • Settlement: Yacimiento de l’Alcudia de Elx RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 157 156 - 157 On the last route of this guide, designed to explore the Region of Valencia in short trips, we will discover the regions of Vega Baja del Segura and the Baix Vinalopó, at the southernmost end of the province of Alicante, From the University City to Las Salinas ‘green way’ Our route sets out from the capital of the Vega Baja del with Orihuela and Elx (Elche) as their respective capitals, and watered by the Segura and Vinalopó rivers for which the respective regions are named. This is a flat, fertile coastal territory, dedicated to irrigated agriculture, although with a more diversified socioeconomic landscape nowadays, with services, industry, tourism and construction. And the coast, obviously, low and sandy, with fine sandy beaches and lovely dune formations in the area of La Mata, Guardamar del Segura and Santa Pola, with one of the most important Spanish fishing ports. A region where we can find everything: coast, beaches, good fish, an ancient fertile plain, mountains that break up the monotony of the plain, monumental cities like Orihuela and Elx, with endless attractions for visitor. Even an abandoned railway converted into a green way - “vía verde”, from Albatera to Torrevieja, an unbeatable climate and, above all, the sea. Maybe it is because the two regions as a whole can be likened to a paradise that so many people have decided to make their homes here, amongst the palms. The landscape of the Baix Vinalopó and Baix Segura, inherited from the Iberians, Romans, Arabs and then the Christians is a fertile plain, a vast orchard. Three wet zones attest to this: the lagoons of La Mata and Torrevieja; Fondo y Salinas de Santa Pola, which have been nature parks since the 90s; as well as ZEPA zones (Areas for Special Protection of Birds). These wetlands also included in Segura, Orihuela, whose old quarter has been declared of historic-artistic importance, its notable cultural heritage being inherited from the creation of the diocese of Orihuela. It is also known as the University City as, despite its reduced size, it is home to three universities. The cultural visit round the city should take us to the 16th century college of Santo Domingo, the old University of Orihuela; the Cathedral of San Salvador from the late 13th century, which houses the diocesan museum; the church of Saints Justa and Rufina, a Gothic building with Renaissance and baroque facades; the 18th century bishop’s palace; and the 15th century church of Santiago Apóstol. All of them are Places of Cultural Interest. However, we cannot miss visiting the palaces of: Rubalcava; the Marquis of Arneva, now the Town Hall; the Count of La Granja; or that of the Counts of Luna, now a hotel. We will also go to: the Theatre-Circus; the monastery of the Visitation, with its neoclassical church; and the museums: house of Miguel Hernandez; the San Juan de Dios archaeological museum; that of the Muralla [the city wall]; Semana Santa [Holy Week]; the Reconquista [when the Arabs were expelled]; and the ethnological museum, amongst others. In the surroundings, and within its spacious municipal boundary, it is worth pointing out the spots: las Norias [waterwheels], the San Antón palm grove (the second largest in Europe and one of the oldest), the Orihuela sierra, the Agudo-Cuerda de la Murada, the Soto del Molino, the Escalona sierra, and the spots that can be the RAMSAR agreement protecting wetlands and, viewed from the vantage points of El Túnel and the since 2002 they have been part of the Valencian Government’s Catalogue of Wetlands and of the proposal to be included in the European Natura 2000 diocesan seminary of San Miguel, from where we can look at the unique landscape of the market gardens and orchards of the fertile plain on the riverbanks of the network of Sites of Common Interest (SCIs) [known in Spain as “LIC” = Lugares de Interés Comunitario”]. And, as if that were not enough, the extremely beautiful Segura, in the environs of the city. A mention apart is deserved for the coastline of Orihuela with its beaches: Flamenca, Glea, Gato, Miramar and island of Tabarca, which we will also visit, at the end of the route. Sacanit, as well as the bays: Mosca, Estacas, Cerrada and el Bosque, as well as the protected posidonia [seagrass] RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 158 Route 15 From Orihuela to Elx meadows of cape Roig, an important marine habitat, lands. In its urban layout we discover the simplicity of the protected as a SCI. We will now leave Orihuela behind, taking the main roads CV-925 and CV-951 in the direction of San Miguel de 19th century parish church of Nuestra Señora del Pilar; the pleasant little tree-lined plaza of the Sagrado Corazón, with its Holm oak over a hundred years old; and within its Salinas, immersing ourselves in the fertile ‘Huerta’ with beautiful agricultural “mosaics”, the patchwork of fields, dominated by orange groves. We border the reservoir of La Pedrera and pass through the hamlets of Hurchillo and Torremundo, both belonging to the municipality of Orihuela. From Torremundo we go over to the Escalona sierra, which at 344 metres above sea level has become the “green lungs” of Orihuela, thanks to its magnificent forests of Aleppo pine, fan palm, strawberry tree, Kermes oak and mastic tree. Birds of prey are not lacking in the sierra and we sense the presence of the mountain cat or genet [a cat-like mammal related to civets]. A little further on we come to San Miguel de Salinas, a good example of the evolution experienced towards the end of the 20th century by this and many other municipalities in the region, thanks to the diversion of water from the Tajo river to the Segura, transforming this traditional unirrigated agricultural structure to one of irrigated crops, predominantly citrus fruit. Recent decades have seen the appearance of sun and beach tourism, experiencing an important population increase due to the influxes of immigrants and retired European residents; in fact, more than half the population has foreign nationality. In the urban centre we will visit the parish church of San Miguel Arcángel and the castle, while within the municipal boundary we will go over to the archaeological remains of La Zahurda, the waterspouts of Fuente del Sabinar and Fuente del Carranchalet and La Pedrera reservoir. From municipal boundary the hermitage of the Marquesa built in 1829. San Miguel de Salinas we now head for Los Montesinos along the CV-940, bordering the western shore of the curious Laguna Roja [red lagoon] of the Torrevieja salt flats, which is protected by the Lagunas de La Mata-Torrevieja nature park. The urban centre of Los Montesinos became a municipality in 1990, when it was separated from Almoradi. Its origins have to be traced back to the 13th century and the repopulation efforts of Cardinal Belluga. The name comes from a noble family, owner of these La Mata-Torrevieja nature park, Europe’s largest salt producer After the visit to Los Montesinos, we now head for one of the points of greatest interest on this route, La MataTorrevieja nature park, following the CV-945. Two kilometres from Los Montesinos we will discover a sign on our right announcing the green way, “vía verde de las Salinas”, a route of just three and half kilometres that take us into the waterside heart of the Torrevieja lagoon. This abandoned railway line, now converted into a green way, joined the station at Albatera to the port at Torrevieja and its salt exploitation, as a branch of the Murcia-Alicante mainline. The former steam train, which transported people as well as salt production in a profitable operation, stopped providing its passenger service in 1970, to be closed completely a few years later. Today this stretch of abandoned railway runs as a green way parallel to the Torrevieja, a sheet of water over 1,400 hectares in area within the Lagunas de La Mata-Torrevieja nature park. The largest production of salt in Spain is extracted from its interior, with the help of the salt from El Pinoso, the famous salt-bearing Salt ponds of Torrevieja 37º 59' 77'' N 0º 42' 2'' W RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 159 158 - 159 of coast, where the beach of the Náufragos [shipwrecks] La Mata nature park 38º 1' 48'' N 0º 39' 52'' W stands out, as well as that of El Cura, Los Locos, and La Mata, without forgetting charming bays like those we can find at the spots called La Zorra and Ferris. In the mountain, where it is extracted by water and piped to the lagoon as brine. According to historians, the Phoenicians and Romans already extracted salt from this incomparable spot. This Torrevieja lagoon is connected to the sea and to the neighbouring lagoon of La Mata, by means of old and historic channels that have ended up making a perfect circuit for extracting the salt. The best time of day to visit this peculiar environment is with the last light of day when we can enjoy a spectacular sunset decorated by the magic of the sheet of water of the lagoon and, as a backdrop, the impressive and emblematic Orihuela sierra. If we continue along the green way on this there and back stretch as a detour from our main itinerary, we will reach the urban centre of Torrevieja. Nowadays, Torrevieja is a city chiefly related to sun and beach tourism and residential tourism (half its inhabitants are foreign), but up until a few years ago the salt extraction and the sea conditioned its development before the arrival of the tourist phenomenon (building work is one of the main factors of economic growth). In the last 25 years, Torrevieja has passed from something over ten thousand inhabitants to over a hundred thousand at present. In fact, at the beginning of the 19th century, of the present urban centre of Torrevieja, all that existed was a former watchtower, the “torre vieja” that gives the town its name, and a few salt workers’ cottages. Its cultural sphere, it is worth pointing out the “habanera” groups. Since 1955 an international music festival has been held, based on the habanera, the Certamen Internacional de Habaneras y Polifonía de Torrevieja, declared of international tourist interest, along with various international choral gatherings run in parallel. Also very important is the Premio de Novela Ciudad de Torrevieja, the second in Spain, after the Planeta award, in the amount awarded. Having resumed our main route, at the roundabout of the CV-905, we will find a path only for hiking and cycle-tourism, which leads to the park’s information centre, bordering the waters of La Mata lagoon. It is a solitary stretch with friendly landscapes between a dense pinewood that opens onto clearings to allow the cultivation of a local grape variety greatly appreciated in the area. This stretch of the route is the most suitable to mention that we find ourselves in a protected area extending over a total of 4,154 hectares. The park includes two main lagoons: La Mata, some seven hundred hectares, and that of Torrevieja, with 1,400 hectares. This last is the second largest in Valencian lands after the Albufera of Valencia. The rest, some 2,054 hectares, corresponds to the areas around the edges, reed beds, areas of salt marshes, a mountainous area called El Chaparral, and the pinewoods on the south of La Mata lagoon, where we start our visit. Given the heavy urbanisation in the surroundings of the lagoons of La Mata and Torrevieja, subsequent growth was due to its port, through which these have today become an indispensable oasis for the salt and horticultural and fruit produce from the region were exported, not only to the rest of Spain but also to some European countries. A stroll around the wild life , true “lungs” for the whole region. The lagoons of La Mata and Torrevieja, into which flow a network of gullies and watercourses from the nearby San Miguel urban centre will lead us to the modernist casino and the parish church of the Inmaculada Concepción, and also of interest, in the surroundings, the Torre del Moro, de Salinas sierra, form an ecosystem that shows its most visual image in the vegetation. The salt marshes dominate the landscape, with the best-known of salt- the Eras de la Sal or a visit to the salt-works. For those who prefer the beach, Torrevieja has twenty kilometres tolerant plant species, salicornia, known in English as glasswort, pickleweed or marsh samphire, and RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 160 Route 15 From Orihuela to Elx limonium species, along with reed beds and rushes. In the environs of the lagoons we also find scrubland vegetation, as well as the only wooded area of the entire park as a whole, the pinewood which, with species like the Aleppo pine and stone pine, provide the landscape as a whole with an element that breaks the monotony of the wetland horizon. But the real protagonist of the landscape is the animal wildlife, especially the birdlife. Most recent bird censuses talk of around a hundred different species in the vicinity of the two lagoons, the flamingo and black-necked grebe standing out, with thousands of specimens during the breeding season, as well as the black-winged Stilt, red crested Pochard, mallard, Eurasian widgeon, common tern and the Kentish plover [which despite its name no longer breeds in Kent or even in UK]. Finally, it is worth mentioning the existence of the brine shrimp, a crustacean not commonly found, as it needs high levels of salt in the water to survive. From the nature park’s information centre we can walk around the edge of La Mata lagoon, discovering the specially set up observation points for looking not only at the surrounding landscape but its rich and abundant birdlife. In this sense the birdwatching hides stand out, a tower that gives an aerial view over the whole lagoon, as well as a cabin standing on the ground on the bank of the lake itself. A little further on we will visit the Acequión, the channel connecting La Mata with the sea; the Altillo vantage point, which enables us to enjoy splendid panoramic views of the fields of vineyards planted between the pinewoods around the lagoon, and the nature park’s information centre. There it is Guardamar dunes 38º 6' 78'' N 0º 38' 52'' W Guardamar del Segura dunes After the visit to the Lagunas de La Mata-Torrevieja nature park, we head for Guardamar del Segura along the N-332, to the south of the river Segura, where the river mouth is found, beside this town. Those who have chosen to cycle or walk the route will be able to reach Guardamar del Segura, the southernmost municipality where Valencian is spoken, along rural roads like the Camí Vell de Guardamar and Camí de Dos, which run around the western side of the Cerro Moncayo, easily recognisable for the radio mast on its summit. The actual site of the urban centre of Guardamar del Segura is relatively recent, as the original network of streets was found within the defensive walls, with the castle as the centre of the town, situated on the hill that dominates the city from its 64 metres of height. The hill was abandoned in 1829 for a location nearer the coast, using, moreover, advanced anti-seismic techniques in the construction, since an earthquake had devastated the old Guardamar. But by the end of the 19th century the new location was starting to suffer the invasion of the coastal sand masses and, to prevent the advancing dunes from covering the town, the reforestation of the dunes was undertaken to anchor them, which gave rise to the famous pinewoods of the Guardamar dunes, its best- possible to enjoy all kinds of educational installations, known and appreciated image. These days the whole notable amongst them being the view from a camera which transmits images, in real time, from the interior of the most sensitive area of the park, the nesting areas, Guardamar coastal front is a beautiful forest park declared a Site of Natural Interest [Spanish equivalent to the UK SSSI scheme], which covers more than eight hundred hectares where the most characteristic species of the park carry on their daily lives. and is known by the name of Dunas de Guardamar. Of interest in the urban centre and environs are the remains of the 10th century Arab mosques, the ruins of the castle from the 12th and 13th centuries, the archaeological and ethnological museum, the Reina Sofia park, the Cabeza RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 161 160 - 161 Lucero archaeological deposits from the Iberian era, where recently built residential areas, which have created a new the ‘Dama de Guardamar’ was found [Lady of Guardamar or Lady of Cabeza Lucero, an Iberian era bust similar to the more famous Lady of Elx (or Elche) discovered in 1987), landscape of construction and urban development. A quiet stroll around its streets will lead us to the parish church, which dates from the 18th century; to the and the Arab site of La Rábita in the area of dunes. The solitary virgin beaches at Guardamar, sheltered at the foot of the dunes, attract the attention of the relatively few visitors to this peaceful town, especially the Moncaya and Tusales beaches, enjoyed by nudists, situated on the edge of the mouth of the river Segura and enclosed by dense vegetation and natural dunes which make them even more attractive and suitable for nudism. We will leave Guardamar del Segura behind taking the major road N332, crossing the river Segura and a few kilometres further on we take the CV-859 in the direction of San Fulgencio, running alongside a wide channel known as the Azarbe de la Reina, always surrounded by fields of vegetable crops, citrus groves and other fruit orchards that shape an eminently agrarian landscape. The town of San Fulgencio was founded in 1740 by Cardinal Belluga, who set up a project to drain a series of marshy lands, turning them into fertile soil suitable for agricultural use. More than 75% of its inhabitants are of foreign nationality, which represents the highest percentage of foreign residents in the whole of Spain and one of the highest in the European Union (the only Spanish municipality where English is the most-spoken language). Obviously, nowadays it has stopped being an agricultural town and depends more on tourism and the archaeological museum and, in the surroundings, to the archaeological deposits from the Iberian Age of El Oral and La Escuera. In addition, within the same municipal boundary, we can visit the wetland area of El Hondo de Amorós and the nature spot known as El Oasis, a recreational and leisure area three kilometres from the urban centre. From there we will be able to look at extraordinary views of the Vega Baja del Segura and the spots El Hondo de Elx and Hondo de Amorós. From San Fulgencio we now head for Dolores, bordering the channel or Azarbe de la Reina again. Nowadays the municipality of Dolores, sharing its origins with neighbouring towns under the protection of the drainage and transformation works carried out by Cardinal Belluga, is devoted fundamentally to horticultural and fruit production (globe artichokes and other vegetables) and the rearing of livestock. In its urban centre the simple parish church stands out, while on the outskirts we can walk through the roads and paths of the market gardens and orchards. On the CV9218, after our visit to Dolores, we reach Catral, whose closest proximities display a landscape of fields and crops, thanks, as with the neighbouring towns, to Cardinal Belluga’s project for draining the marshy lands. Its present urban layout has its origin in the 13th Orihuela 38º 5' 38'' N 0º 56' 39'' W RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 162 Route 15 From Orihuela to Elx century, with the Christian repopulation, at the time when it was ceded by Jaime I to his son-in-law Alfonso X, the Wise. The 15th century parish church stands out, while in the surroundings we should visit the hermitage of Santa Agueda - where local pilgrimages and religious processions have been held since the 17th century - and an archaeological site with a “castrum” or fortified camp, possibly of Iberian or Roman origin. Our next stop will be the information centre of El Fondo nature park, a wetlands ecosystem of great natural and cultural value. El Fondo nature park extends through the municipal areas of Elx and Creveillent over a total of 2,387 hectares and its role is both ecological and agricultural, as the water from its reservoirs serve for irrigation. From Catral, on the CV-8630 and the old Elx road, we reach the small, peaceful town of San Felipe Neri, belonging to the municipality of Crevillent, and a sign on our right indicates the direction to reach the information centre, a recent building with the latest technology and well provided with descriptive and educational panels, as well as cameras that show the bird life in the park. El Fondo, a nature park since 1994 is, along with the Santa pratincole, northern shoveler and the osprey, as well as the park’s most relevant species: the white-headed duck and the marbled duck, which find here their safest nesting spot in the whole of Europe. El Fondo nature park is included in the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands of International Importance, and is a Special Protection Area [SPA - ZEPA in Spanish] under the EU directive on the Conservation of Wild Birds, and is surprising for its lagoons or ponds, the two largest known as the Levante reservoir and the Poniente reservoir, and for extensive areas of salt marshes, which afford a landscape of calm waters occupying the last remnants of what was the former Elx albufera. From El Fondo natural park we can make our way, on a there and back stretch, to Crevillente, an industrial and commercial city, whose famous carpets gave it the nickname of ‘carpet city’, situated at the foot of the sierra of the same name, with its summit of La Vella Pola salt marshes, the only wetlands area left today of what was the Gulf of Elx, which first became a great inland peak and that of La Madera. However, historically it was esparto grass and matting made of it exported abroad salt lake cut off from the sea by a sand bank, and then filled by natural sedimentation. Throughout this process the present lagoons or ponds of El Fondo and Santa Pola (called “tapis d’Espagne” in France) that were the basis of Crevillente’s industry. In its urban centre, the monumental 18th century parish church of Nuestra Señora de Belén formed a single sheet of water that gradually transformed or disappeared, also by silting, to drain the wetland and stands out, safeguarding in its crypt the Pasos de la Semana Santa [tableaux for the Holy Week procession] turn it into cultivated land. Today the wetland area of El Fondo is like an oasis with waters of incalculable value for birdlife, being one of the most relevant on the Valencian designed by Mariano Benlliure; the town’s Council House, from 1901; the bell tower of the old church; the Calvary [special route with the Stations of the Cross, for the Holy coast, not only for migratory species, but also as a nesting spot, reasons that have led to its declaration as a nature Week procession]; the Barrio Morería (Arab quarter); and the old castle and the city walls declared of Cultural park. An excellent protection made the most of by birds like herons, the black-crowned night heron, squacco heron, common pochard, black-winged stilt, collared Interest. Its festivals of Moors and Christians and Holy Week have been declared Fiestas of National Tourist Interest. A leisurely look around should take us to the El Fondo nature park RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 163 162 - 163 for Santa Pola along the CV-851 to visit another nature park, the Salinas de Santa Pola. Elx 38º 15' 87'' N 0º 41' 39'' W A watchtower amongst salt marshes dwellings in caves dug out of the sides of the nearby ravines. On the outskirts of the urban centre it is possible to visit the archaeological sites of: Ratlla del Bubo (upper Palaeolithic), Les Moreres (Copper Age - just before the Bronze Age) and Peña Negra (Iberian). We look around the San Cayetano park, Los Molinos Centre for environmental education and the hermitages of San Isidro and San Pascual. After the visit to Crevillent, we return to El Fondo nature park from the northern end, at a place known as Segunda Elevación de Riegos de Levante, undoubtedly the best way to enjoy the heart of the park. A perfectly signposted, there and back route, which gives access to three hides, strategically placed and concealed on the Levante and Poniente reservoirs. A paradise for ornithologists, and for anyone else who enjoys seeing wildlife in its natural habitat, especially birdlife in freedom. There is no better time than in the early morning in spring or autumn with a cloudless sky to enjoy the life, light and colour of this natural environment. Ochre colouring everywhere, under the deep turquoise-blue of the sky, and on the ground and against the light, the colourful glasswort contributing its deep autumnal red to the beautiful shades of El Fondo, while a cloud of anatids [family including ducks, geese and swans] breaks the silence and covers for a few moments the entire horizon At the entrance to Santa Pola on the CV-865 to our right we will see the information centre of the Salt museum, our entrance to the nature park. The information centre will show us the culture and work of salt extraction. Around it there is a signposted salt itinerary which leads to a privileged birdwatching spot, probably the best corner in the park for observing the flamingo. The Salinas de Santa Pola nature park, given its location and wetland characteristics, climate and scarce rainfall, it is an invaluable refuge for wildlife, especially for birdlife, being one of the most relevant places on our coast, not only for migratory species, but also for nesting sites, given also the salt exploitation and nearby coastline. In this park we will discover open horizons, broad sheets of water of changing colours with their vast ponds for the salt exploitations in the area, pools used as fish farms, exuberant vegetation and the presence of unusual wild life, like the flamingos, responsible for a large part of the functioning of the salt marsh ecosystem. The salt ponds for extracting salt are where the biological cycle occurs that supports the salt industry. The flamingos are key players, as, amongst other food, they feed on the tiny crustacean called the brine shrimp, a species proper to hypersaline environments. The faeces of the flamingos supply the of the park. A whole visual and aesthetic miracle beyond nutrients and minerals necessary for the development that of its biological values. We will also discover that it is the ornithologists who best monitor the rhythm of life in the park, their discreet, silent and patient work catching of the halophile bacteria species - “halo”, a Greek word meaning salt - which live on the bottom of the ponds of the saltworks and favour the formation of an our attention, as they study the birdlife, binoculars in hand, from the lookouts. With their work of scientific contemplation from the hides they dignify the area and impermeable coating to the beds of the ponds and protect the lower layer from excessive exposure to the sun. These bacteria are also responsible for the peculiar thus become the best possible guide for the visitor in these wetlands. After this gratifying experience we head rosy pink colour of the water in the park. On the dunes of the sand bank separating the wetland from the sea, RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 164 Route 15 From Orihuela to Elx the beautiful forest masses of stone pine and Aleppo pine stand out, planted to fix the dunes and now forming a very eye-catching landscape group and contrasting with the salt ponds and the blue of the Mediterranean. Regarding the birdlife we discover all types of species: permanent residents, migratory, summer visitors, winter visitors and nesting visitors, as a consequence of the constant circulation of sea water: black-winged stilt, Kentish plover, little tern and the marsh harrier. Special attention is given to the flamingos, which have turned the Santa Pola saltworks into one of their sanctuaries, with thousands of specimens during the breeding season. The pyramids of salt, their whiteness breaking the monotony of the skyline on the flat horizon of the park, give visual and aesthetic strength to the salt industry, and the Tamarit tower, declared a Place of Cultural Interest, stands at the very centre of the park and, surrounded by a mirror-like sheet of water, is undoubtedly the emblem of the park. The protected area, declared a nature park in 1994, stretches out over a total of 2,496 hectares and nowadays game shooting is still permitted between October and January and eel fishing is allowed using traditional methods. After this visit to two of the most unusual and unforgettable parks in the Region of Valencia, we visit the nearby municipality of Santa Pola, which has its origin in an early Iberian settlement, over which the Romans built Portus Ilicitanus in the 1st century AD, as the port of the Roman colony of Ilici [now Elche or Elx, its people still known as Ilicitanos] as well as the important salting industry, of the archaeological site of Elx 38º 16' 03'' N 0º 41' 77'' W multicoloured mosaics and murals; the ruins of the Roman port; the 18th century mill, Molino de la Calera; the fishing museum and the maritime museum. In the environs, and within the municipal boundary, the beautiful beaches are noteworthy, and the 16th century watchtowers, all declared Places of Cultural Interest: Atalayola, its structure being used since 1858 for the location of the present lighthouse, Escaletes and Tamarit, already mentioned within the Salinas de Santa Pola nature park. . From the island of Tabarca to Elx One of the most emblematic places in the area and a destination not to be missed is Tabarca island, the largest in the Region of Valencia and the only one permanently inhabited. Although it can be visited by boat from various different points along the Alicante coast, Santa Pola is, undoubtedly, the best place to depart for a visit to Tabarca island, due to its proximity. Although it belongs to the municipality of Alicante (it is twenty kilometres from Alicante, but only eight from Santa Pola and four from the cape of Santa Pola). Nueva Tabarca is a tiny island, light and flat, little known until relatively recently, in the Region of Valencia group. Picola, from the 1st to the 3rd centuries. Today at Santa Tabarca must not be visited in a hurry, given the quality of life, environmental value and seclusion offered by Pola we find a city with a dual dedication between tourism and fishing, with the port and the castle at the centre and flanked by two natural areas, the Salinas de this simple and welcoming flat island, known by the Greeks and Romans as “Plana” = flat. Tourists arrive at Tabarca for its climate, in summer its Santa Pola nature park and the sierra, forested by a pinewood, and the cape of Santa Pola. On our wander round the urban centre we find the simple parish beaches are greatly valued; for shopping; to enjoy a good meal in its restaurants or to have a getaway break church; the 14th century, declared of a Place of Cultural Interest; the Roman house of the Palmeral, with from the coastal apartments. But the island has other values, especially since it has started to have adequate infrastructure and rigorous protectionist regulations. RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 165 164 - 165 Today the island enables visitors who enjoy peaceful an intense historical time: the 1877 lighthouse, the 18th friendly places - Tabarca is one of the few Mediterranean islands without a single motor vehicle to discover fresh values that have little to do with the century Sant Josep tower, the loneliest and quietest of all the Valencian coastal cemeteries. But it is on the seabed that Tabarca surprises the most however, traditional “sun and beach” tourism. In the first place, the island has been a Marine Reserve since 1986, but even before that it had recognition with the declaration in 1964 as a place of Artistic–Historic Importance, updated more recently with the protective character of a Place of Cultural Interest. Notable on Tabarca is the restored Governor’s House, an 18th century building converted into a hotel, which has to a great extent respected the original structure of the old building, like the semicircular arches of the ground floor salon with ashlar stones. The Governor’s House is situated in the island’s unique urban enclosure, known by the name of Sant Pau or Nueva Tabarca, a walled enclosure from the 18th century with some magnificent access gates: on the west that of Sant Gabriel, on the east that of Sant Rafael, and a third allows it to be caressed by the north winds, that of Sant Miquel. When the sun sets, the Sant Gabriel gateway offers a beautiful sight, since the Ashlar stones from the nearby quarry rare bathed in a deep red and the landscape looks unreal, all surrounded by unbelievably clean waters. The eastern part of the island is a plain beautifully drawn by a vegetation of prickly pears, a cactus that rises to more than two metres tall, and botanical species of flora that decorate architectural works that have remained as a display of meadows of posidonia sea grass, sea horses, turtles, lobsters, as well as the cliffs and bays. After the visit to one of the most quiet and serene places on the Valencian coast we will return to Santa Pola ready to subsequently head for the destination that will close this itinerary, Elx (Elche). If we go by car we will take the CV- 865, and those who choose to walk or cycle, may choose an asphalted road running parallel to the main road, enabling places as agreeable as the hermitages of Santa Anna and Sant Vicent els Bassars to be reached, all of that through a beautiful rural landscape. Having reached Elx we find that this city has the third largest population in the Region of Valencia, as well as being the capital of the Baix Vinalopó region. The icons of Elx are various and diverse: its footwear industry; the previously mentioned and well-known Lady of Elx; the Elx Mystery Play, declared by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity; and above all, its over 200,000 palm trees that embrace the city and have given it part of its fame, amongst which the emblematic palm grove of the Hort del Cura is Salt ponds of Santa Pola 38º 11' 48'' N 0º 35' 63'' W RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 166 Route 15 From Orihuela to Elx Orihuela 38º 5' 15'' N 0º 56' 73'' W Salt lagoon in La Mata 38º 1' 21'' N 0º 40' 15'' W outstanding. The whole group of palm groves constitutes the southernmost and most extensive forestation of this species in Europe, for which reason it was declared a World Heritage in 2000. Inside the grove we find two mediaeval watchtowers, that of Los Vaïllos de Llanos and that of Ressemblanc. In the the urban centre and surroundings of Elx the sights not to be missed are: the Altamira palace (or Alcàsser de Senyoria), which hosts the Alejandro Ramos Folques municipal archaeological museum; the 17th century baroque basilica of Santa María; the Arab fort of Calahorra; the Town Hall; the Arab baths at the convent de la Mercé; or the numerous defensive towers. All this, without forgetting the visits to the city’s remaining seven museums: that of the Arab baths; the Escolar de Pusol; the Visitors’ Centre; that of Modern Art; that of La Festa, dedicated to the Elx Mystery Play; that of the Palmeral (palms); Palaeontology of the Mediterranean; and Cidaris. On the outskirts of the city we can pass through natural spots full of culture. As well as the already mentioned and visited El Fondo nature park, in the first place we head for the Alcudia de Elx archaeological site and visit its associated museum, with Neolithic remains, passing through Iberian Age, Roman and Arab, and the place where the famous Lady of Elx was found. All that without leaving out the patchwork of fertile market gardens and orchards; its reservoir built in 1632; the natural spot of Clot de Galvany; the beach zones centred around l’Altet and La Marina. At La Marina the beaches of El Pinet, La Marina, Les Pesqueres and El Rebollo are surrounded by charming dunes and stands of pines. And for those seeking more seclusion there are the naturist beaches of Tussales and El Carabassi. Practical information Fiestas, food and Crafts The cuisine of this area offers abundant fish, rice and meat dishes. Among the great variety of rice dishes, those that stand out are: arroz huertana [vegetables]; arroz con costra [literally “with a crust”, rice with pieces of different kinds of Spanish sausage and cooked with egg]; arroz con conejo y caracoles [rabbit and snails]; arroz con guisantes y boquerones [peas and anchovies]; arroz caldoso [thin broth]; arroz a banda [seafood]; arroz y mondongo [tripe]; arroz negro [squid] or arroz i gatet [carp]. Dishes made with meat are stews such as: guisados de pavo [turkey stew]; gazpacho de perdiz y liebre [hare and partridge]; cocido con pelotas [stew and dumplings]; conejo frito con tomate y pimientos [fried rabbit with tomato and peppers] or caldero [stew with rice]. There are also local specialities such as gachamigas [a stiff “porridge” of flour, olive oil and water flavoured with garlic and cooked until it separates into crumbs] accompanied with seasonal fruit especially grapes; summer charcoal roast vegetables like the asado de patatas y alcochofas [roast potatoes and artichoke hearts]; hervido verde [boiled green vegetables]; olla viuda [meatless stew]; langostinos [prawns]; angulas al ajillo [eels in garlic sauce]; potaje [of pulses like lentils or chick peas]; coca de boquerones [anchovy tart); pa torrat i RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 167 166 - 167 bacallá [bread and cod]; mujol de la laguna de Honda special celebrations are: the Elx Mystery Plays, con allioli [local fish from the Honda lagoon with garlic sauce]. The display of cakes and pastries is spectacular; pasteles performance of a medieval religious lyric drama at the Basilica of Santa María, recently declared by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of de gloria [marzipan pastry]; toñas [sweet buns]; almojábenas [Arab pastries]; buñuelos de calabaza [fried dough balls filled with pumpkin] in San José; mantecados de Navidad [Christmas biscuits]; boniatos y calabazas asadas [roast sweet potato and pumpkin]; Torta de Elx [almond tart]; pamfigol [fig bread] or dátiles [dates], with which a tasty liqueur is made. Look out, too, for the cantueso, a liqueur made since 1867, with its own official specific denomination [like the French appellation controlée for wine] as a traditional Alicante spirit drink. A reference not to miss on the festival calendar are the San Antón celebrations in January; countless romerías [local pilgrimages and religious processions] to the sanctuaries and hermitages in the area; the Moors and Christians parades; carnivals in February [to mark the start of Lent]; the feast days of the patron saints days in every town and city; and the bonfires of Sant Joan [St. John’s Day, also midsummer] in June. But of all the towns and cities through which the route passes, Humanity; the Holy Week procession of the burial in Orihuela; and in San Fulgencio our attention is caught by the groups of ‘Auroros’ who parade through the streets at dawn singing the “rosary of the aurora” and popular chants of ancient tradition. They also present plays about working the hemp in the fields; in Santa Pola on the 16th of July, day of the Virgen del Carmen, there is a maritime procession of boats round the harbour while a choir sings the Salve Marinera. With regard to craft work in the area of the route, bags and shopping baskets are made of dried palm leaves, as well as rope soled shoes made from esparto or needlegrass, blankets, saddlebags, boxes of cardboard and glass, crochet shawls and hair adornments, hemp products, farming implements, carpets, white palm braids, footwear and ceramics. Salt ponds of Santa Pola 38º 9' 26'' N 0º 37' 74'' W RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 168 Route 15 From Orihuela to Elx Recommended time of year a mountain bike is best, or as a minimum, the hybrid Any time is good, although preferably spring and autumn. In summer the hours around midday must be avoided. Watch out for the autumnal colours in the reed type. We do not come across many public waterspouts to quench thirst and refresh oneself away from the urban centres, so we should fill up with water whenever beds of the protected wetlands. we get the chance. Both the early hours of the day and at dusk are the times of day with the best light and most agreeable temperature. If anyone wants to make use of the car, on the tracks where it is possible to drive motor vehicles, the main track should never be left, as it is much better and more respectful to the environment. In order to get to know each area of nature we propose in greater detail, it is recommended that you leave the car parked somewhere safe and secure and undertake trips on foot. Public transport Orihuela, Elx and Alicante can be reached by local, regional and national train services. Bicycles are transported free of charge on the trains. There are public bus services from Murcia and Alicante to Orihuela and Elx. Recommendations In the case of wishing to travel the route just as it is set out in the guide, by bike or on foot, a word of warning: Orihuela 38º 5' 22'' N 0º 57' 03'' W Salt ponds of Santa Pola 38º 11' 07'' N 0º 36' 85'' W RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:20 Página 169 168 - 169 RECOMMENDED MAPS TO FOLLOW THE ROUTE CORRECTLY: National Geographic Institute Scale 1:25,000, sheet numbers: 913-IV, 934-II, 935-I, 935-II, 914-III, 914-I, 893-III, 893-IV, 893-I, 893-II, 894-I, 872-III. Further information: www.comunitatvalenciana.com Information on regional and local trains: Renfe 902 24 02 02. www.renfe.es TOURIST INFO OFFICES FOR THE ROUTE: Tourist Info Dolores Pl. General Llopis, 1 03150 Dolores Tel. 966 71 03 63 Fax 966 71 11 09 [email protected] Tourist Info La Marina d’Elx Av. de la Alegría, 72 La Marina d’Elx 03194 Elx Tel. 965 41 97 10 [email protected] Tourist Info Santa Pola Pl. Diputación, s/n 03130 Santa Pola Tel. 966 69 22 76 Fax 966 69 60 39 [email protected] Tourist Info Torrevieja Pl. Ruiz Capdepont, s/n 03181 Torrevieja Tel. 965 70 57 82 Fax 965 71 59 36 [email protected] Tourist Info Elx Pl. del Parc, 3 03202 Elx Tel. 966 65 81 96 Fax 966 65 81 97 [email protected] Tourist Info Orihuela Pl. de la Salud, 2 03300 Orihuela Tel. 965 30 27 47 Fax 965 30 62 94 [email protected] Tourist Info Elx - Aeroport Aeropuerto de Alicante Terminal Llegadas T1. El Altet 03195 Elx Tel. 966 91 93 67 Fax 966 91 93 67 [email protected] Tourist Info Orihuela - Andenes Av. de la Estación (Estación Intermodal) 03300 Orihuela Tel. 966 73 60 89 Tourist Info Santa Pola - Centro C/ Astilleros, 4 (Junto al Ayuntamiento) 03130 Santa Pola Tel. 966 69 60 52 Fax 966 69 60 39 [email protected] Tourist Info Torrevieja Alto Castilla Av. Cortes Valencianas, s/n Mirador Alto Castilla 03183 Torrevieja Tel. 666 57 99 49 Fax 966 11 14 22 [email protected] Tourist Info Santa Pola - Gran Alacant Av. Escandinavia, 31 03130 Santa Pola Tel. 966 69 97 62 Fax 966 69 60 39 [email protected] Tourist Info Torrevieja Centro C/ Caballero de Rodas, 27 03181 Torrevieja Tel. 965 70 90 23 Fax 966 70 33 57 [email protected] Tourist Info San Fulgencio C/ Amsterdam, s/n Urbanización la Marina 03177 San Fulgencio Tel. 966 79 00 21 Fax 966 79 00 21 [email protected] Tourist Info Torrevieja-La Mata Pl. Encarnación Puchol, s/n Torrelamata 03188 Torrevieja Tel. 966 92 52 42 Fax 966 92 60 44 [email protected] Tourist Info San Miguel de Salinas Pl. Juan Carlos I, 1 03193 San Miguel De Salinas Tel. 966 72 34 66 [email protected] Tourist Info Torrevieja Paseo Marítimo Paseo Marítimo, Playa del Cura 03182 Torrevieja Tel. 966 70 22 84 Tourist Info Elx Els Arenals del Sol Av. San Bartolomé de Tirajana, 42. Arenales del Sol 03195 Elx Tel. 966 91 01 11 [email protected] Tourist Info Guardamar del Segura Pl. de la Constitución, 7 03140 Guardamar Del Segura Tel. 965 72 44 88 Fax 965 72 72 92 [email protected] Tourist Info Orihuela-Centro Pl. Marqués de Rafal, 5 03300 Orihuela Tel. 965 30 46 45 Fax 965 30 62 94 [email protected] Tourist Info Orihuela-Playa Pl. del Oriol (Urb. Playa Flamenca) 1 03189 Orihuela Tel. 966 76 00 00 Fax 966 76 12 50 [email protected] Tourist Info Rojales Malecón de la Encantada, 1 03170 Rojales Tel. 966 71 50 01 Fax 966 71 47 42 [email protected]
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