Exploring the Amalfi Coast

Exploring the Amalfi Coast - 2017
Hotel Villa Franca
Table of Contents
. Welcome to Hotel Villa Franca
. How to Reach Us
. Shuttle Bus to and from Positano - Complimentary Service
3
3-4
5
. Private Chauffeur Services and Tours
6-7
. Private Boat Services and Tours
8-9
. Trekking Tours
10
. Amalfi Coast Scuba Diving
11
. Visiting Positano
12
. Visiting Amalfi
13
. Visiting Ravello
13-14
. Visiting Pompeii
14-15
. Visiting Capri
15-16
. Visiting Sorrento
17-18
. Visiting Naples
19-20
Other Experiences: . Wine Tourism on the Amalfi Coast
21
. Cooking Classes
22
. Drive a Vintage Car
22
. Nightlife Recommendations
23
. Restaurant Recommendations
23-26
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Welcome to Villa Franca
A Dream amid Sea and Sky
Villa Franca is a hilltop haven, set high on the craggy slopes of Positano, overlooking a
spectacular stretch of the Amalfi Coast. Our boutique resort encapsulates both sides of the
coast, both the old-world, classic Italian style, as evidenced in the centuries-old, snaking
streets of Positano, and the sense of seaside glamor, as reflected in Hotel Villa Franca’s
tasteful modern interiors.
Soak up the scene from the rooftop pool, where comfortable loungers and sun-shading
parasols beckon guests. As evening draws in, swap the poolside for the elegant surrounding
of Restaurant Li Galli, whose views across the hillside and the coast are unrivalled. For
something a little more low-key, dine al fresco at Li Galli Grill, where 360-degree views steal
the scene. If the moreish Mediterranean cuisine served up by our chefs has you smitten, you
may want to learn how to recreate the very same flavors for yourself at one of our hands-on
cooking classes, with the option of following it up with a cocktail-making workshop.
If the kitchen isn’t your happy place, leave it to the professionals and instead embark on a
boat trip to nearby beaches and difficult-to-access coves. Our in-the-know staff can offer
suggestions for guided day trip options to the likes of Pompeii, Naples or Sorrento. Or, you
may want to explore independently. Browse the steep, shop-lined streets of Positano or hit
the hilly hiking trails of the coast for coastal vistas that turn trekkers wide-eyed with wonder.
After exploring, return to Villa Franca for some R&R in the O SPA, where you can rejuvenate
tired legs or get a manicure and pedicure in preparation for the night head. When tiredness
hits, your airy, elegant room awaits. Bedrooms at Villa Franca feature clean, white interiors,
hand-crafted majolica tiles and private balconies perched perfectly for sunset views. Villa
Franca is a Small Luxury Hotels of the World property.
How to reach us
By Car:
From Naples (55 km), follow Highway A3 Salerno / Reggio Calabria. Exit at Castellammare di
Stabia, follow the SS145 to Sorrento, then the SS143 Amalfi Coast.
From Salerno (40 km), take the SS163 toward the Amalfi Coast.
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By Train:
From the central station of Naples (Napoli Centrale), take the Circumvesuviana railway to
Sorrento. From there, Sita buses run to Positano, Amalfi and Salerno.
By Plane:
The handiest airport for the Amalfi Coast is Naples Capodichino, which is connected to the
center of Naples by public buses. From there, you can take the train to Sorrento and
connecting buses to the Amalfi Coast.
By Boat:
Boats bound for Amalfi and Positano depart daily from Naples, Salerno, Capri and Sorrento.
Please note that the boat from Capri docks near the main beach, where you will find the
Positano Blue Porters, who can bring luggage to the hotel at the cost of €10 per piece.
Guests will have to walk through the pedestrian area toward Piazza dei Mulini, where you
will find a taxi rank stocked with drivers who can take you to the hotel. You can also reach
Villa Franca by taking our shuttle bus from the Positano bus terminal. The shuttle departs
every 30 minutes between 8:35am and 11:05am, and from 5:05pm to 8:05pm.
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Shuttle Bus to and from the Center of Positano
Hotel Villa Franca offers a complimentary shuttle bus service to and from the bus terminal in
Positano, which is approximately 10 minutes’ walk from the main shopping area. Please find
below our shuttle timetable:
From Hotel Villa Franca to the town center
(Drop off at the bus terminal)
Da Hotel Villa Franca al centro di Positano
(Fermata presso stazionamento bus)
8:30
9:30
10:30
17:00
18:00
19:00
20:00
22:30
23:30
9:00
10:00
11:00
17:30
18:30
19:30
22:00
23:00
00:00
From the bus station to Hotel Villa Franca
(Pick up at the bus terminal)
Dallo stazionamento dei bus a Hotel Villa Franca
(Fermata presso stazionamento bus)
8:35
9:35
10:35
17:05
18:05
19:05
20:05
22:35
23:35
9:05
10:05
11:05
17:35
18:35
19:35
22:05
23:05
00:05
To ensure you get a spot on the bus, we recommend you pre-book your seats in advance.
Either ask at our reception or dial ext. 9 from the phone in room to make the reservation.
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Private Chauffeur Services and Tours
Our Concierge Team can arrange transfers and excursions by private limo or minibus with
English-speaking drivers
Transfer to and from Hotel Villa Franca:
Naples
Sedan (1 – 3 pax)
Euro 150,00
S/Wagon (2 – 3 pax) Minivan (4 -8 pax)
Euro 170,00
Euro 220,00
S Class
Euro 270,00
Salerno
Euro 160,00
Euro 180,00
Euro 240,00
Euro 300,00
Roma
Euro 530,00
Euro 550,00
Euro 580,00
Euro 700,00
Civitavecchia
Euro 640,00
Euro 660,00
Euro 700,00
Euro 800,00
Firenze
Euro 860,00
Euro 910,00
Euro 1050,00
Euro 1260,00
The above rates are per way, per service and include tax. Fees can be added to the room bill.
Suggested Excursions:
Ravello and Amalfi:
Set off to explore the wonders of the Amalfi Coast in the company of an English-speaking
driver. Start in the enchantingly romantic town of Ravello, which is set high on a hilltop over
the sea. Seek out the town’s postcard-worthy Duomo, which dates back to the 12th century,
and the attractive built-for-aristocrats Villa Rufolo. The latter is famed for its attractive
gardens, which are said to have served as inspiration for classical mastermind Richard
Wagner back in the 19th century. Classical concerts are held every summer on the villa’s
terrace, Villa Rufolo Belvedere, as part of the annual Wagner Festival.
You might want to enjoy an al fresco lunch here in Ravello, before continuing on to Amalfi,
whose slender back streets are ideal for aimless wandering. Pause for a coffee break in the
town’s piazza, which overlooks the arabesque cathedral of Saint Andrea.
Naples Full-Day:
Swap the tranquility and natural splendor of the Amalfi Coast for a day spent exploring the
high-spirited and culture-crammed Southern Italian capital. Depart in the morning and spend
the day getting to know this characterful and colorful metropolis. Stop by the National
Archaeological Museum, which is packed to the rafters with dug-up ancient treasures; go
shopping in the grand, glass-roofed Galleria Umberto I; take a tour around the opulent
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interior of San Carlo Opera House, the oldest still-in-operation opera house in Italy; or simply
walk along the waterfront promenade. Don’t leave without sampling some of the famous
Neapolitan street food. Among the many delicious options on offer is the famous Neapolitan
pizza, which is cooked in a wood-fired oven and typically eaten on the go.
Shopping in Sorrento:
Just 45 minutes or so from Villa Franca sits the charming seaside town of Sorrento. During
the height of summer, it hums with activity, with both domestic and foreign tourists coming
to check out its colorful shop-lined streets. The main shopping roads are Corso Italia and Via
San Cesareo.
The town is a mecca for handcrafted goods, with everything from organic scented wax
candles, limoncello sweets and jams to embroidered handkerchiefs, jewelry and ceramics
available. You will also find various Nativity figurines, intricate and impeccably crafted by
deft-handed artisans.
Pompeii Half-Day:
During this history-themed tour, you will be driven from your hotel to Pompeii, one of the
most famous archaeological sites in the world. Wander the ancient streets of the old Roman
town of Pompeii, which was preserved by the ash that buried it, and admire the still-standing
baths, villas and forums built by prosperous Romans before the devastating eruption of
Vesuvius in AD 79.
Pompeii Full-Day:
Combine the half-day Pompeii itinerary (see above) with an afternoon trip to one of the
other top spots in the region. Spend the afternoon getting familiar with Ravello, Amalfi or
Sorrento; opt to climb up Vesuvius for a spot of crater-gazing; or continue your historical
discoveries at the nearby Herculaneum archaeological site – another victim of the AD 79
Vesuvius eruption.
Outlet Shopping
You will be picked up from Villa Franca and driven to the La Reggia outlet village, near the
town of Caserta. A bargain hunter’s dream, La Reggia is the biggest outlet shopping center in
Southern Italy, and is usually open from 9:00am to 22:00pm.
These are, of course, just suggested itineraries and they can all be altered to suit your
particular preferences. Our Concierge Team will be delighted to customize your itinerary.
Rates will be provided accordingly.
7
Private Boat Services and Tours
The rugged rocky coast around Positano is speckled with indented coves, quiet bays and
dramatic headland. And the best way to see it is undoubtedly by boat. At Villa Franca, our
guests have access to the hotel’s own fabulous vessel, which can be used for coastal
excursions, during which guests can enjoy drinks on board and drop anchor at some of the
prettiest swimming spots around.
Alternatively, our concierge team can arrange other tailor-made excursions on the water. To
give you some inspiration, we’ve put together a few different possible itineraries below that
may tempt you out to sea.
A Full-Day Boat Trip to Capri
Itinerary: At 9:00am, step aboard a traditional wooden boat with between 8 and 16 other
people at Positano’s pier and set sail for the legendary island of Capri. Once we touch down
on Capri, you will have around four or five hours free time to explore. Come afternoon, reboard once more as we cruise around Capri’s glorious coast, passing through the iconic
Faraglioni rocks, hopping from one glittering turquoise grotto to the next before continuing
on toward Li Galli islands – a trio of small, private isles facing Positano. Here, we will stop for
a swim before pulling up to Positano at around 6pm. During the cruise, passengers can sip
on crisp Prosecco and other drinks, as well as helping themselves to complimentary snacks
and fruits.
Alternatively, we can arrange for a private boat and captain to take you to Capri. Departure
times are flexible for private excursions, though it’s recommended you set off between
9:00am and 11:00am to make the most out of your day. En route, you can stop any time for
a refreshing dip in the brilliant blue waters; Baia di Ieranto is a particularly idyllic spot for a
swim. Once on the island, you are free to explore. You might take the cable car from the
harbor to reach the Piazzetta, and join the well-heeled crowds shopping on the boutiquebordered Via Camerelle. Or, you may want to skip over to Capri’s quieter neighbor, Anacapri,
for a fix of peace and tranquility. You can have lunch on the island in one of the dramatically
set restaurants on the rugged coast, some of which even overlook the postcard favorite
Faraglioni rocks. When you’re done, return to port, where your skipper will be waiting to
take you back to Villa Franca.
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Emerald Grotto and Amalfi
Spend a day touring the spectacular Amalfi Coast with this four-hour private cruise. With
your captain directing proceedings, you’ll be steered toward the fabulous fjord of Furore,
passing sheer headland, lemon-studded terraces and the charming village of Conca de
Marini along the way. Stop to see the famous Emerald Grotto, whose gem-toned waters look
like they’ve been Photoshopped, before pulling into port at the ancient maritime republic of
Amalfi. If you want, you can pause proceedings for a swim at the beaches of Duoglio or Santa
Croce, before returning to Positano.
Swimming between Li Galli islands and Nerano
Float away from Positano toward the gorgeous Li Galli islands, where, according to the
verses of Homer’s The Odyssey, Odysseus resisted the seductive song of the sirens. You will
venture to the cave of the Madonnina del Mare, where you can take the plunge off the side
of the boat into the translucent waters. Continue along the coast to Nerano, where if you so
wish, you can break for lunch. There are a number of restaurants to choose from, ranging
from Michelin-star establishments to more low-key trattorias.
If you want to dial up the romance, we can arrange for you to do this tour at night, when you
can dine in romantic bay-view restaurants such as La Conca del Sogno.
Pure Romance: Capri by Night
Soak up the glamor and glitz of mesmerizing Capri with a nighttime excursion to the island.
Depart in late afternoon, just in time to catch the sunset as you sail across to the idyllic
island. You may even want to squeeze in one last swim in the still-warm waters. After, you
can spruce up in the on-board bathroom and cabin so you are ready for your night out upon
pulling into port.
Once on the island, you can enjoy dinner – we can offer restaurant recommendations and
make reservations on your behalf – and post-meal drinks on the atmospheric Piazzetta,
where a chic crowd congregate and perhaps even stop by the famous live music club, Anema
e Core. Later, the captain will whisk you back to Positano, allowing for one last midnight
swim under the stars followed by a Champagne toast.
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Trekking Tours
Because sometimes, there is no better way to get acquainted with a new place than
exploring on foot.
Path of Gods:
The Path of Gods, or Sentiero degli Dei as it is known in Italian, offers wonderful panoramas
of the Amalfi Coast. It takes its name because of its lofty clifftop setting, which presents
remarkable views over the whole surrounding area – the kind of overarching, far-reaching
vistas typically enjoyed only by the “gods.”
Several access points are available. You can reach the Colle Serra (at 580 meters) either
from Praiano or from Bomerano. Bomerano is the official start point. From Praiano, you can
also choose to meet the Sentiero degli Dei about 500 meters downhill from Colle Serra, via
the Convent of San Domenico.
Leaving Colle Serra, you will be forced to choose between two routes: the upper path and
the lower path. Both are approximately 1.5 kilometers long. From this point on, on both
trails, the landscape changes. Gone are the once-cultivated grassy terraces where goats and
sheep graze. In their place are oak, chestnut and strawberry trees and bushes of heather
and fragrant rosemary.
The route continues to wind along, with several climbs and descents, and lots of cameraworthy viewpoints until you eventually reach the tiny village of Nocelle. From here, you can
tackle the 1,500 or so steps down to the Amalfi Drive at Arienzo or continue on to
Montepertuso, walking first along a concrete path and then along the asphalt road.
La Valle delle Ferriere:
This little-known natural woodland reserve, which is populated with chestnut trees and the
remains of old ironworks, is a walkers’ paradise. With the rearing slopes of Mount
Cervigliano providing shelter, it has its own unique microclimate and harbors several rare
plant species. Trails start from San Lazzaro (Agerola) and Atrani.
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Amalfi Coast Scuba Diving
While the Amalfi Coast above-sea scenery impresses, a whole other, equally spectacular
world awaits on the submerged seabed. The area is home to dozens of scuba diving sites,
suitable for all levels.
Isca Grotto and the Sapphire Grotto:
Some of the Amalfi Coast’s finest diving spots are to be found in its caves and grottos, which
are ripe for exploring. Don you gear and enter the rocky chamber of the Isca Grotto, known
for its stunning light reflections, then dive into the Sapphire Grotto, famous for its intensely
jewel-toned waters. The latter grotto, which is set at a depth of 12 meters below sea level,
can be accessed by an entrance set at 3 meters below sea level, and is bedecked with
sculpture-like stalagmites and stalactites.
Secchetella dei Galli:
This spectacular dive site is packed with fascinating scenes and creatures. Found between
the town of Cetara and the Li Galli islands, this underwater mountain is difficult to spot
despite the clearness of the waters. There are several descent options for divers, all
promising exciting surprises, including brightly colored corals and fish.
Ischitella:
This site near Praiano can be tackled by divers of all skill levels. More cautious novice divers
can see various sea whips, sponges and sea organisms not far from the surface, while those
more comfortable in their fins can venture down to more extreme depths, where they will
encounter a grotto, a red gorgonian forest and all kinds of colorful coral. The crevices in the
rocky walls here often hide various marine species, including groupers, lobsters and moray
eels.
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Visiting Positano
With its sunny, warm climate and staggering hillside setting, it’s little wonder that the coastal
village of Positano has been a vacation hotspot since Roman times. Legend has it the city was
founded by the sea god Poseidon in an attempt to woo a nymph he had taken a liking too.
The town really came into its own in the 12th century, with the arrival of the famous
Byzantine Black Madonna, which is now displayed above the altar in the town’s Santa Maria
Assunta church. The story goes that a ship carrying a Byzantine painting of the Holy Mary
was sailing past Positano when the crew found themselves unable to continue. After
reportedly hearing the words “posa, posa,” (literally, “rest, rest”), they came to a stop at
Positano. The icon was installed in the town’s church, which was later rededicated to the
Virgin Mary. The townspeople would later build a new church in her honor and chose the
Virgin Mary as their new patron. Every year on the August 15, the people of Positano
celebrate their patron saint during the feast of the Assumption of Mary into Heaven.
The church, together with the town’s Spiaggia Grande and Fornillo beaches – both of which
are accessible via the town’s famous steps – are among the biggest attractions.
Medieval Crypt and Roman Villa of Positano
Hidden away under the apse of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta is a medieval crypt. It was
during restorations of this crypt that the remains of a Roman villa were uncovered back in
2004. The villa, which dates back to 2nd century BC, had lain hidden for centuries following
the AD 79 Vesuvius eruption – the very same eruption that saw Pompeii buried in ash.
Though only parts of the villa have been excavated so far, it is thought to be very vast and to
extend beneath much of Positano’s historic center. Among the many treasures unearthed
are various frescos as well as household objects such as bronze vases.
Much like the villa, the medieval crypt had also remained concealed for much of recent
history, following the edict of Saint Cloud. The edict, which came into force in Italy in 1806,
stated that burials were forbidden inside city walls. The crypt only reopened in 2009
following a restoration project.
Li Galli Isles:
The Li Galli islands, three rocky mounds visible from Positano, are traditionally said to be the
home of the Sirens, the mythical Greek nymphs who lured sailors from the ships and
attempted to enchant Odysseus in Homer’s famous epic, The Odyssey. The largest island
houses a private residence, while the other two are undeveloped and uninhabited. You can
rent a boat from the hotel pier and head out to sail around the rocky, cave-pocked islands,
stopping to swim in the warm waters.
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Visiting Amalfi
Amalfi was once an important seafaring center and reached peak splendor in the 11th
century. Unfortunately, however, the good times did not last and the port’s influence and
power slowly began to wane. In 1343, an earthquake hit Amalfi, destroying much of the city.
In the following centuries, the sun-soaked town remained small and modest, never again
reaching its pre-earthquake size or level of clout.
Today, Amalfi is a charming, small town with ample charm, where tourism is the main
business. Among its most noteworthy sights is the striking Arabic-Sicilian style Cathedral,
which is dedicated to Sant’Andrea (St. Andrew), the patron saint of the city. The cathedral is
a mishmash of styles, the result of various reconstructions and rebuilds from different
periods. In the past, the town was also known as a paper-producing center. You can find out
more about the city’s paper industry in Amalfi’s Paper Museum, which is housed inside an
old mill.
Duomo di Amalfi:
Amalfi’s magnificent cathedral stands proud on the town’s main square as it has done since
it was first built back in the 10th century. That’s not to say its appearance hasn’t changed
over the years; quite the opposite in fact. It has been reconstructed and redesigned many
times. The façade features Gothic columns and a bronze door, while a green and yellow-tiled
bell tower dating from the 12th century rises up behind it. Adjoining the cathedral is the
Moorish-style Cloister of Paradise, which was added during the 13th century. The impressive
staircase, which provides access to the cathedral, was constructed in 1728.
The black and white tiled façade of the cathedral is the result of a 19th-century renovation,
which replaced an earlier Baroque-style design. The interior, however, remains mostly
Baroque in style. Be on the lookout for several attractive mosaics and statues inside.
Visiting Ravello
As the nearby Maritime Republic of Amalfi grew in wealth, so too did the little town of
Ravello, prospering thanks to its trading links. In 1086, the town went against its allies in
Amalfi, and were rewarded by the then-Pope Vittore III, who made Ravello a bishop’s see.
After the earthquake in 1137, Ravello began to suffer economically, and lost a big part of its
population to Naples. In the past century or so, the small town has seen a rebirth, with
artists, intellectuals and tourists coming to Ravello in their droves to soak up its elegant
splendor.
Duomo di Ravello:
The Cathedral of Ravello – once dedicated to the Virgin Mary and later to Saint Pantaleone –
stand in prime position in Piazza Vescovado, the highest point in town. The building dates
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from the 11th century, but has been tweaked and tinkered with several times, and
underwent more major modifications in the 17th century.
Enter through the eye-catching bronze doors and explore the cathedral’s attractive interior,
which features two striking marble pulpits. Look around for the rather unusual relic of Saint
Pantaleone: a jar of his blood. The relic has resided in the cathedral since 1112. Though it is
usually clotted, it is said to liquefy once a year during the feast of the saint.
Villa Rufolo:
This 14th-century villa is located in the historical center of Ravello, not far from Piazza
Vescovado and the cathedral. Though the historic buildings are worth seeing, the real stars
of the show at Villa Rufolo are the photogenic gardens, which are planted with all kinds of
colorful blooms and exotic plants. The views from the gardens, which are set high above the
coastline and the sparkling Gulf of Salerno, are mind-blowing.
Villa Cimbrone:
Another vestige from Ravello’s glory days, this elegant 11th-century villa, which now houses
a hotel, is another popular spot for a saunter. It’s located on a rocky peak on the coast,
accessible on foot from the historical center of Ravello, and features vast gardens that
visitors are free to wander around. Bring your camera as the views are superb, particularly
when admired from the vantage point of the statue-dotted Terrazza dell’Infinito (The
Terrace of Infinity).
Visiting Pompeii
Pompeii is one of Southern Italy’s leading tourist attractions, drawing in curious visitors
hoping to glimpse the perfectly preserved remnants of an ancient Roman settlement. The
city was, famously, a victim of the AD 79 Mount Vesuvius eruption, but what fewer people
know is that when it was struck by the falling ash, it was already a city in recovery mode. In
fact, it had suffered a catastrophic earthquake just 17 years prior and was still in the process
of rebuilding when Mount Vesuvius spluttered to life, kick-starting one of the worst known
tragedies of ancient history.
Pompeii was buried under mounds of ash and pumice and stayed concealed for many
centuries, before archaeologists finally began to bring it to light in 1748, slowly digging out
the fabulous fresco-covered villas that lay beneath. In 1997, it was given World Heritage Site
status by UNESCO and is now among the most-visited archaeological sites in the world,
attracting in excess of 2 million tourists every year.
Excavations on the site are still ongoing, though what can be seen provides a truly
astonishing glimpse into what life was like for the people of Pompeii back in the first century.
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Visiting Capri
Capri’s reputation precedes it. This idyllic Mediterranean island is famous for being a favorite
haunt among celebrities, artists and businesspeople through the ages, from the Roman
Emperor Tiberius right up to Jackie Kennedy. And it’s not hard to see why those who have
the means to go anywhere they want choose to go to this small, little island. There is lots to
see and do here. You can view the ruins of Emperor Tiberius’ villa, wander the atmospheric
and colorful port of Marina Grande and sip a spritz on the famous Piazzetta. You can take the
chair lift to the top of Monte Solaro, marvel at the intense blue waters of the Grotta Azzurra,
and hike along scenic paths that lead to lookouts over rock formations such as the Natural
Arch and the Faraglioni. And, like many visitors before you, you may just find yourself falling
for this beguiling little island.
La Piazzetta:
Capri’s bustling central square is officially known as Piazza Umberto I, but almost everyone
knows it simply as the Piazzetta. It’s the beating heart of the island and a fantastic peoplewatching spot, attracting a glamorous and eminently watchable crowd. The square is
bordered by the town hall, a tourist information office and a small shop, though it’s the
corner-set pavement cafés that really dominate the scene. Here is where you’ll see everyone
from average vacationers to high-profile figures sipping coffees, or as night draws in,
cocktails.
Even before the Piazzetta garnered global fame, it played an integral role in life on the island,
having served as a central marketplace where vendors came to sell fresh produce including
fish, fruit and vegetables. It wasn’t until 1938, when one particularly entrepreneurial young
bar owner decided to set up some tables outside his bar on the Piazzetta. The move was a
success, with other bar owners following suit. Today, spending some time on the Piazzetta is
an integral part of the Capri experience. While here, don’t forget to keep your eyes peeled
for famous faces – many a celebrity, from sports stars to Hollywood hotshots – have been
spotted here in the past.
Grotta Azzurra:
Though you may not recognize its original Italian name, chances are you will be familiar with
its English title: the Blue Grotto. The Blue Grotto is probably the island’s most popular tourist
attraction and oar-toting locals can be seen in little wooden rowing boats in the nearby
waters, waiting to transport visitors to the cave, which measures around 60 meters in length
and 25 meters in width. After passing through the narrow entrance passageway, sightseers
will emerge into the blue waters of the cavern, which have appeared on countless Capri
postcards. Though you may have seen images of the brilliant blue waters online or in books,
nothing quite compares to seeing this sight first-hand.
Faraglioni:
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This trio of rock formations, which emerge from the azure waters just a short distance from
the southern coast of the island, are an icon of Capri. So well recognized are they that each
individual rock has its own name. The first, which connects with the main island landmass, is
known as Stella. The second, completely cut off from land is Faraglione di Mezzo, and is
easily identifiable as it has a central opening under which small boats can sail. The third and
final rock is known as Faraglione di Fuori or Scopolo. It is the furthest away of the rocks – the
Faraglione di Fuori – that serves as home to the rare blue lizard, whose electric blue coloring
seems to mirror the shade of the sky and the sea. This eye-catching amphibian can only be
found here on Capri.
The Charterhouse of San Giacomo:
This 14th-century religious complex is one of the oldest buildings on the island of Capri. It
was constructed in 1371 to serve as a convent, and the complex includes three distinct
sections: one hosting a pharmacy and women’s church; another serving as living quarters for
the monks and visitors, with adjacent stables, storehouses and workshops; the final block
features cloisters around which a series of cells are set, and would have been used for
reflection and prayer.
The Chiostro Grande, or Great Cloister, follows a Renaissance-style plan and features cross
vaults and stone columns. The central space has a geometric design. Also worth checking out
is the smaller Chiostro Piccolo, which has Roman marble columns. No longer a functioning
convent, the Charterhouse is now used as a high school for Capri locals and also houses the
Diefenbach Museum, which is devoted to German symbolist painter Karl Wilhelm
Diefenbach. Diefenbach, who was born in 1851, was not only an artist but also took a strong
interest in social reform, advocating for pacifism, vegetarianism and the harmony of man
and nature. Upon the dissolution of his commune in Germany – and fearing persecution for
his subversive ideas – he fled to Capri, where he lived until his death in 1913. His works are
now on show here at the Charterhouse.
During summer, the Charterhouse of San Giacomo, is also used to host concerts and various
cultural events. Check to see if anything is happening there during your stay.
.
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Visiting Sorrento
Set amid an extraordinary landscape, where sea and mountains meet and deep valleys,
citrus groves and plateaus alternate like patchwork, Sorrento is truly spectacular. It is a
destination that wears many masks. Some know it as the hometown of 16th-century Italian
poet Torquato Tasso. Others know it as the “city of mermaids”; according to Greek legends,
mermaids use to live in the seas around Sorrento. Others associate the town with the smell
of citrus (orange and lemon groves can be found all around it), while for others again, the
city is synonymous with the fabulous inlaid wood furniture and decorative items produced
and sold by its artisans. Since the 18th century, skilled Sorrento artisans have been inlaying
wood. While you will see lots of inlaid wood products for sale in the town’s shops, you will
also find precious examples on show at the Museo-Bottega della Tarsia Lignea, which is set
inside an 18th-century palace in the historical center.
Visitors to Sorrento will find ample attractions and activities to keep them occupied. Get
close to nature by following the hiking paths that branch out from the town along the coast
before soothing tired legs in thermal springs. For a culture fix, head to the Museo Correale di
Terranova, where you’ll find Greek and Roman artifacts as well as an eclectic selection of
artworks ranging from old-master paintings to majolica tiles. The museum, which is housed
inside an 18th-century village also has a gorgeous garden that overlooks the coast. After,
browse the town’s excellent stores, which sell all kinds of designer goods as well as various
high-quality handmade items such as ceramics and lacework, before enjoying a seafood
lunch while admiring the views over the water and across to the towering Mount Vesuvius.
The vistas are particularly spectacular at sunset, when the sinking sun projects softly-lit
colors onto the surrounds. Find a vantage point that looks out to sea and you should be able
to spot the shadowy mounds of nearby islands such as Ischia.
Shopping in Sorrento:
Sorrento is, without a doubt, one of the best shopping spots in the Amalfi Coast. Not only
can you enjoy browsing the stores in the supremely attractive streets of the historic center,
but you’ll also find lots of unique, high-quality one-of-a-kind souvenirs for sale here. Among
the common items on offer are hand-stitched tablecloths, colorful leather sandals (again
handmade) and all kinds of edible and drinkable delights, from limoncello to sfogliatelle to
gelato. In fact, the food is one of Sorrento’s strongest suits and myriad delicacies are
available, from tasty almond and lemon cakes to mouthwatering orange pastries, moreish
biscuits to deliciously sweet jams.
Delectable as all that may sound, Sorrento is, perhaps even more famous for its inlaid
wooden marquetry, which is patiently crafted by deft-handed artisans who create intricate
patterns and pretty colors. You will find their workshops scattered around town and you will
often see their pieces drying outside in the open air.
If you aren’t sure where to begin browsing, we suggest you start on the main street, Corso
Italia, where lots of shops sell locally made objects and Italian brands.
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Correale di Terranova Museum:
The Correale di Terranova Museum is housed in an elegant 18th-century villa with superb
views over the bay. It takes its name from the Correale family, who not only own the villa but
also own the collection of works displayed within. It opened in 1924 and has since attracted
rave reviews, with some fans describing it as “the most beautiful provincial museum of Italy.”
The collection includes plenty of precious porcelain from famous European producers such
as Meissen, Sevres, Bow, Wien and Capodimonte, as well as fabulous glass pieces from
Murano Bohemia. Sumptuous furniture and household items, including rare clocks and
consoles, are also on show here. The standout part of the collection, however, is the 17th
and 18th-century paintings, which include works from the likes of Van Dyck, Kassel, Gigante
and Gentileschi among others.
The Wooden Marquetry Shop-Museum – Museo Bottega della Tarsia Lignea:
Located in the historical center of Sorrento in an 18th-century patrician palace, this
interesting museums provides a glimpse into a local craft that has been practiced in Sorrento
for centuries. The museum focuses on the art of marquetry, or wood inlay, and showcases
many exquisite examples produced by skilled local masters. The exhibits are showcased in
beautiful surrounds, with frescoed vaults and hand-painted wallpaper on the roof. In
addition to marquetry, the museum also displays 19th-century paintings by both Italian and
foreign artists as well as photos and prints that paint a picture of life in the region during the
19th century.
Sorrento Cathedral:
Few sights in Sorrento can conjure up the past quite as vividly as Sorrento’s magnificent
cathedral. Originally built in the early 15th century in Romanesque style, the building has
been reconstructed on several occasions during its lifespan, with the most recent overhaul
taking place in 1924, when the entire façade was redone. During the course of its existence,
the cathedral has played a central role in Sorrento life, having been the site where the most
prominent citizens and figures in town were baptized and worshiped, as well as having been
used to host public meetings.
Among the standout features of the exterior is the bell tower, whose Romanesque-style base
dates back to the 1100s. The upper part of the tower is much newer, with experts guessing it
was either rebuilt or significantly altered at some point around the 15th century.
Inside, more treasures await. There is a 1474-built side door inside the cathedral, which
follows a typical Renaissance style, as well as several 18th-century paintings and an ornate
marble throne. Not everything inside the cathedral is old, however; there are also several
much more modern examples of marquetry produced by skilled local craftspeople.
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Visiting Naples
This vibrant, sun-splashed metropolis rewards those who sightsee on foot with a seemingly
never-ending roster of sights, a cacophony of sounds and a tempting mélange of smells.
While we could write a book on Naples’ many delights, chances are you won’t have time to
see them all, so instead we’ve put together a list of the highlights.
Napoli Sotteranea - Naples Underground:
Naples is a city with – literally – layers of history. Beneath the bustling, people-packed streets
is a quieter, subterranean world where evidence of older eras remains perfectly intact. Set at
a depth of around 40 meters, the Naples Underground features remnants from many
different ages, ranging from vestiges of the ancient city of Neapolis right up to World War II
air-raid shelters. Visit this concealed underground world and trace the evolution of this
fascinating metropolis.
Cappella San Severo - San Severo Chapel:
Small though it may be, this diminutive church-museum more than makes up for its modest
size with its unique collection of offbeat items. Housed in what was once the Sansevero
family’s private place of worship, the museum contains the eccentric Prince Raimondo of
Sansevero’s personal collection of artworks and objects, which reflect his interest in science
and alchemy. Fascinating pieces, such as the unusual marble Veiled Christ sculpture, noted
for its incredible textural appearance, and “anatomical models,” which contrary to popular
belief, are not real human figures but are made from other materials such as beeswax, iron
wire and silk.
Cristo Velato - Veiled Christ:
Held inside the aforementioned San Severo Chapel, this magnificent sculpture is considered
to be one of the finest in the collection. It depicts the dead Christ, his lifeless body shrouded
by what appears to be a transparent sheet. The level of nuance and detail, most notably the
creasing and the folds of the shroud; so delicate and intricate are they that it’s almost
impossible to believe they are made from marble.
Piazza del Gesù Nuovo:
This busy, central square is spliced in two by the Spaccanapoli, a straight narrow east-west
road that has existed since ancient times. The square is also home to some of the city’s most
important monuments, including the historic Palazzo Pignatelli and the Guglia
dell'Immacolata, a towering 18th-century obelisk topped with a sculpture of the Virgin Mary.
Every year in December, during the annual Immacolata feast, fireman come and place
flowers at the Virgin’s feet. Then there is the Church of Gesù Nuovo and the Monastery of
Santa Chiara, which – though the convent has stood on this site since the 14th century – is
not the original. After being severely damaged during World War II, it was rebuilt in its
original Provencal Gothic style.
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Duomo di San Gennaro:
Otherwise known as Naples Cathedral, the Duomo di San Gennaro is one of the city’s
undoubted highlights. Originally built in the late 12th century, it has been tweaked, changed
and added to on several occasions over the years, whether to repair earthquake damage or
to enhance its appearance. Among the more interesting objects hidden away in the church is
San Gennaro’s skull and two vials of his blood, which is held behind the altar. Twice a year,
the so-called Miracle of San Gennaro takes place, during with the martyr’s blood liquefies; it
is thought to be a good omen, signifying that Naples will not face disaster that year.
Galleria Umberto I:
This 19th-century glass-roofed shopping arcade is not your average mall. As many visitors
come simply to gawk at its gorgeous design, which features four iron and glass wings with a
vast dome at the center, as they do to spend money in its shops. Many compare it to the
similarly lavish Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan.
Posillipo Hill:
This hill, which separates the Gulf of Naples from Pozzuoli dalla Grotta Romana, offers some
of the best views in the city. Since ancient times, it has served as a kind of residential refuge
where city dwellers could come build houses and escape the hubbub and noise of the city
center. This function is reflected in its name, which is derived from the Greek term
Pausilypon, meaning "a respite from pain.” You’ll see many stunning villas here, some of
which are a couple of centuries old, and most of which provide their owners with
uninterrupted views of the Gulf of Naples.
National Archaeological Museum:
Not only is this esteemed collection counted among the best of its kind in Italy, but it’s also
among the best archaeological collections in the world. Its collections consists of items
amassed by the family of Bourbon king Charles VII, as well as a series of precious objects
unearthed from the ash-covered depths of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Well-known works
abound though there are a few standout sections, including the sculpture-packed Galleria
dei Grandi Maestri (Great Masters Gallery) and Tirannicidi, a Roman-era copy of an earlier
Athenian sculpture depicting two lovers who helped pave the path for Athenian democracy.
Museo di Capodimonte:
This Museum, which originally opened in 1950, displays artworks ranging from the 13th
century up to the 18th century. The collection originated from the influential Farnese family
before being passed on to the royal House of Bourbon. World-famous masters, such as
Michelangelo, Titian, El Greco and Botticelli are all represented.
Città della Scienza
If you’re looking for an experience that is interactive and hands-on, it’s hard to top the Città
della Scienza science center. The center, which is set in an old steel work plant, is particularly
well-suited for children, with lots of opportunities for them to learn and experiment with
science and technology. Though it’s not just for children; adults too will find plenty of
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opportunity to get engaged and to better understand the technology they rely on, as well as
to have fun. The center features exhibits covering such topics as the human body and the
sea, as well as a 3D planetarium.
The Città della Scienza science center is set to expand too, and by 2020, is expected to have
10,000 square meters of space filled with interactive exhibits, exhibitions, scientific labs,
making it the biggest scientific and interactive museum in Italy.
Other Experiences
If you are into wine, you’ve come to the right place. While the Amalfi Coast’s appellations
may not have garnered quite as much international attention as say Tuscany’s, for instance,
there are still plenty of delicious local bottles to be sampled. Not only that, but the vineyards
here enjoy a particularly scenic setting, stretching out in rows on steep slopes that drop
dramatically into the water of the bay. Arrange a guided tour of a local winery through our
concierge and we will take you to a local estate’s cellar, where you can tour the grounds,
learn about production and sample some of their finest vintages together with a few local
gastronomic specialties.
Wine Tourism on the Amalfi Coast
Set among the stunning bays and coves of the coast are the vineyards of Azienda Agricola
Biologica Raffaele Palma. Their vines dominate the slope of Mount Avvocata above the town
of Maiori and overlook the sparkling Gulf of Salerno. It’s hard to imagine a prettier setting for
a vineyard.
Because of the farm’s steep, mountainside setting, the owners have had to apply special
techniques, many of them costly and time-consuming – often mechanical methods have to
be eschewed because of the irregularity of the terrain. You’ll find the vines planted along
“terraces”, which are embedded into the hills that soar up from the sea.
This is not just a vineyard, but a working farm that has been producing certified Amalfi
lemons and DOP-protected Salerno extra virgin olive oil. In 2011, their grape harvest yielded
their first certified DOC Amalfi Coast wine. Tours of their facilities can be arrange via the
concierge team at Hotel Villa Franca.
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Cooking Classes
As famous as it is for its good looks, the Amalfi Coast is probably equally well known for its
fabulous cuisine, which is built around its abundance of fresh produce that grows its fertile,
volcanic soils. Thanks to its proximity to fish-rich waters, seafood is also big here as are
homemade pastas and artisanal cheeses.
Li Galli Cookery Classes
If you want to learn the secrets of Southern Italian cooking, there are few better teachers
than our Executive Chef at Li Galli Restaurant. During these cooking classes, you’ll be
schooled in Neapolitan classics, learning how to make dishes that are synonymous with the
regions of Southern Italy.
Drive a Vintage Car
Driving in the Amalfi Coast is a one-off experience. Though the twisting and turning roads
may not be for the faint of heart, the views will soon make you forget any tight corners. And
if you want to ride around in style, consider renting a vintage vehicle and cruising around the
coast in an Alfa Romeo Spider, a Fiat 500 Spider or a convertible Volkswagen Beetle. With
the top down, you can enjoy not only the sights but also the smells, with citrus and
frangipanis perfuming the air. If you want to reserve a vintage car for the day, inquire at
reception and we’ll arrange it on your behalf.
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Nightlife Suggestions:
The Amalfi Coast is synonymous with glamor and romance. After drinks on a terrace and
dining under the stars, let the night continue by heading on to one of the region’s nightclubs.
Music on the Rocks, Positano:
Positano’s only nightclub is situated on the rocky shoreline, carved into the cliffs by the
coast. In its darkened interior, which resembles a cave, patrons toast over drinks and dance
to pop and techno beats.
Africana, Praiano:
After a period of closure for restorations, Africana Famous Club – a longstanding staple of
the Amalfi Coast nightlife scene – reopened in 2011. This famous nightlife venue was
frequented by many famous faces back in the 1960s and 1970s and still proves popular
among the Amalfi Coast’s chicest visitors. As with Music on the Rocks, it is built into the cliff
by the water and features a raw rock interior.
Restaurant Suggestions:
Positano
Li Galli Restaurant:
Li Galli Restaurant offers sublime food in an equally sublime setting high up on the steep
slopes of Positano. Sit down to dine here and you will be treated to soul-stirring sea and sky
views as well as impeccably crafted dishes inspired by local Campanian culinary traditions.
Steering things in the kitchen is Executive Chef Vincenzo Esposito, who worked with multistarred Michelin Chef Gennaro Esposito to draw up the delicious menu.
Il San Pietro:
Dress to impress for a night out at this sophisticated one-Michelin star venue, which is
situated within a historical hotel. Service is charmingly old school, while the dishes – which
often feature ingredients grown in the restaurant’s own vegetable garden – deliver
traditional flavors in a refined and elegant manner.
La Sponda:
Another proud Michelin-star recipient, La Sponda – which is managed by the Le Sirenuse
hotel – is another restaurant with a killer view. The service here is exemplary and the candlelit dining room is fabulously romantic. There is a dress code in place, making it perfect for
anyone who wants to get spruced up for a romantic night out.
Taverna del Leone:
This traditional restaurant majors in Neapolitan cuisine, serving up regional classics as well as
a selection of pizzas in the evening in an intimate dining room.
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Chez Black:
This casual restaurant, conveniently located on the beachfront beneath Positano’s main
square, has a spacious outdoor area and serves up plenty of freshly caught seafood,
including spaghetti with sea urchin and a traditional fish soup that would have typically been
fed to hungry local fishermen, as well as pasta and meat dishes.
La Terra:
Set high up in the hills above Positano, about 15 minutes’ drive from Villa Franca, this rustic
trattoria promises spectacular views and delicious menu items, with an emphasis on locally
caught seafood.
Da Adolfo:
Ideal for daytime dining, this beachside restaurant features a canopy-covered terrace where
you can tuck into the likes of squid, mussels or pasta while sipping a crisp white wine.
3 Ville Beach Club:
Part of the boutique hotel Villa Tre Ville, this relaxed beach club promises privacy, tranquility
and a handy snack and bar service for when hunger hits.
Nerano
La Conca del Sogno: Set within a stone’s throw of the water on a secluded bay lit by small
lanterns, this fabulous restaurant can only be accessed by boat. The journey from Positano
takes around 30 minutes, but it is well worth the effort, as diners get to experience the
magical atmosphere.
Lo Scoglio: Set in the scenic bay of Nerano with a dining room looking out to the sea, Lo
Scoglio is another restaurant accessible by boat. The menu is Mediterranean in style,
spotlighting the various flavors and culinary traditions of the region.
Ai Quattro Passi: This much-lauded restaurant has been honored with not just one but two
Michelin stars and is set in a romantic bay surrounded by verdant vegetation. Though the
ingredients may sound simple, the dishes are given creative twists, resulting in a truly
memorable meal.
Massa Lubrense
Don Alfonso: This family-owned restaurant has a reputation for greatness, having been
awarded two Michelin stars. Its fabulous food is matched by its superb cellar, which is
housed inside a cave. Reservations are a must.
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Capri
L’Olivo: This two Michelin-star spot inside the Capri Palace Hotel cooks up innovative
interpretations of classic regional flavors.
La Fontelina: For lunch with an unforgettable view of Capri’s famous Faraglioni rock
formations, this beach club is the spot for you. Private boats carry diners to the waterside
dining room, where patrons tuck into the likes of octopus and swordfish under a strawroofed pergola, while admiring the views.
Il Riccio: This decadent, Michelin-starred restaurant and beach club is part of the cliff-set
Capri Palace Hotel. Decked out with blue wooden tables and affording drop-dead gorgeous
views over the rocky coast of Capri, it’s got a modern Mediterranean vibe that is hard to
resist.
Da Paolino “Lemon Trees”: Crowds flock to this popular and often-packed trattoria, which is
just five minutes’ from the harbor in Capri. Guests dine outdoors under a canopy of lemon
trees and there is often a celebrity or two to be spotted there.
Praiano
Un Piano nel Cielo: Occupying the top floor of a hotel and featuring a fabulous terrace, this
elegant restaurant presents diners with seemingly never-ending views out to sea and along
the Amalfi Coast. Large windows ensure diners can soak up the vistas no matter what the
weather.
Il Pirata: Sample the fresh and punchy flavors of typical regional dishes while watching the
lapping waves in this stunningly set bar and restaurant, which is carved into the rocky coast.
Cetara
Acqua Pazza: Located just steps from the sea, this charming restaurant is particularly wellknown for its delicious house-cured anchovies.
Amalfi
La Caravella: This Michelin-starred establishment in the center of Amalfi offers incredibly
tasty and imaginative dishes. The restaurant has a dress code so dress to impress.
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Lido Azzurro: Not far from the historical center, this casual eatery overlooks the port, where
boats come and go. Dishes are traditional and local in style; think seafood pastas, catch of
the day and fresh salads.
Ravello
Rossellini’s: This Michelin-starred, fine-dining restaurant, part of Hotel Palazzo Avino, offers a
quintessentially elegant Italian environment together with inventive and refined takes on
Neapolitan culinary staples.
Flauto di Pan: Set in a garden-encircled villa and boasting front-row views over the dramatic
Amalfi hills and coastline, this Michelin-approved restaurant (which has one star) offers
diners Mediterranean-inspired dishes that place the emphasis on fresh, flavorful ingredients
and skilled preparation.
Vico Equense
Torre del Saracino: This elegant two Michelin-star restaurant, which is partnered with our
very own Li Galli restaurant, sits in the characterful and history-steeped village of Vico
Equense. It’s managed by the multi-starred Chef Gennaro Esposito, and has a menu that
emphasizes local produce and blends traditional and modern elements.
Nonna Rosa: Holder of one Michelin star, Nonna Rosa exudes traditional Italian style. The
restaurant occupies a 17th-century mansion featuring rustic stone walls and frescoes.
Sorrento
Il Buco: This Michelin-starred venue is found in a historic corner of Sorrento, along the street
leading down to the port. Simple yet impeccably crafted gourmet fare is served in a friendly,
informal environment.
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