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Bookbinding - Single-Page Bindings
Japanese Stab Binding
Introduction
Japanese Stab Binding is a single-page binding technique that
has an elegant and contemporary look and is relatively easy to
achieve. Made from a bookblock consisting of a stack of single
sheets rather than signatures and requiring no gluing allows you
to make books that are not possible with other bindings.
You can use scraps of different weights, textures and colours of
paper as long as they are the same size, or can be cut to the
same size, and it is also possible to incorporate different
materials such as textiles. The advantage of stab binding is the
binding can be untied to allow additional pages to be added, or
for the sequence to be changed. The front and back covers can
be either soft or hard (covered board) and are attached to the
bookblock by the decorative stitching.
There are four basic variations of the Japanese stab bind: Kikko
Toji (Tortoise Shell Binding), Asa-No-Ha Toji (Hemp Leaf Binding),
Koki Toji (Noble Binding) and Yotsume Toji (Four Eye Binding).
A selection of Stab Bindings with a
variety of stitches based on the four
basic variations.
This guide will cover the Yotsume Toji (Four Eye Binding) as it
serves as a good introduction to the fundamental techniques
required for the more advanced stitching patterns.
Yotsume Toji (Four Eye Binding)
You will need
• A selection of paper
• 2x heavy weight papers for the covers
• A scrap of greyboard
• 2x wooden boards
• 2x clamps
• Drill with 2mm drill bit
• Bodkin (optional)
• Binding needle & thread
Winchester School of Art Printmaking Workshop 2016
Printmaking Technician: Andy Reaney
01. Prepare a sewing station template for drilling or punching the
holes by cutting a greyboard off-cut to the same height as
your pages ensuring it is square.
02. Measure at least 10mm in from the spine edge and draw a
line from the head to the tail.
03. Make two marks at least 10mm from the head and tail,
these will be the first and last sewing stations, then mark
the two middle sewing stations equally between these.
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04. Assemble the bookblock along with the front and back
covers. Pay attention to the grain of the paper ensuring it
runs from the head to tail.
05. Knock the bookblock, first on its tail and then on its spine to
ensure all the pages are in line
Securing the sewing station template
along the spine edge with binding
clips.
06. Carefully line up the edge of the sewing station template to
the spine of the bookblock and use binding clips to hold the
pages and template in place, along the spine edge. Be
careful not to obscure the marks for the sewing stations on
the template.
07. Place the bookblock onto a piece of wooden board so the
spine and binding clips are hanging over the edge and place
another piece of wooden board on top leaving the sewing
station template holes visible.
08. Clamp the boards and bookblock to the edge of a table so it
is securely held in place.
09. Carefully drill through all of the sewing stations being sure
not to twist the drill as it may cause the bit to break off in
your book block.
Use a drill bit of an appropriate size to the thread you will be
using. A 2mm bit is usually the best size for standard binding
thread, but you could bind your book with ribbon or even rope!
The bookblock and template, secure
between two wooden boards, ready for
drilling. Note how the sewing stations
are visible and easily accessible.
If using a bodkin to punch the holes, begin by punching through
the greyboard and top few pages. Carefully remove the binding
clips and remove the top few pages you have punched. Place the
sewing station template back on the rest of the bookblock and
repeat, piercing a few sheets at a time until all the pages have
been punched.
10. Unclamp the bookblock and move the binding clips towards
the fore-edge of the bookblock being careful to keep the
pages aligned. Discard the sewing station template.
Sewing the Bookblock
After drilling, the binding clips moved
along to the fore-edge of the book.
Tip
Use some paper scraps between the
bookblock and binding clips to
prevent the covers being damaged.
Winchester School of Art Printmaking Workshop 2016
Printmaking Technician: Andy Reaney
The complexity of the stitching you will use for your book will
determine how much thread you will require. For this 4 hole
binding you will require a length of thread 4 times the height of
the book while the Tortoiseshell binding will require a great deal
more.
01. Thread the needle and tie a knot at the end. Ensure the
length of thread is at least 4 times the height of the book.
02. Open your bookblock halfway through from the spine edge.
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03. Begin at Station B in the middle of the bookblock. Push your
needle through Station B towards the front of the bookblock
leaving at least 5cm hanging loose.
04. Tuck the loose end of the thread down in between the pages
towards the fore-edge.
05. Wrap your needle around the spine and thread back up
through Station B from the rear cover, pulling the thread taut.
On the front cover side, go across and down through Station
C. Wrap the needle around spine and back through Station C
again.
Sewing up through the cover from the
middle of the bookblock.
06. Continue to station D on back of the bookblock, come up
through the hole, around the spine and back up through
station D, around the footer and back through Station D one
last time.
07. Work your way back along the spine towards Station A,
catching any gaps along the way. Go down through Station A,
around the spine and back through.
08. Wrap around the head of the bookblock and go back down
through Station A. Remove the binding clips and open the
bookblock to the loose end of thread where you began
sewing..
09. From the back of the book, go up through Station B, bringing
the needle out between the pages where the loose thread is.
Bringing the needle back out through
the middle of the bookblock to meet
the other end of the thread.
Winchester School of Art Printmaking Workshop 2016
Printmaking Technician: Andy Reaney
10. Pull the two end threads taught to take up any slack in the
binding and tie a square knot. Trim the loose ends leaving
10mm of thread.
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Making a Hardcover
You will need
• 2x Greyboard pieces
(the same size as your pages)
(50mm larger than your page size)
• 2x Decorative papers
• 2x Coloured end papers
Follow the below directions for creating an alternative hardcover
for your stab bound book. Once the covers are prepared
continue to make your book as shown in the above directions.
01. Measure twice the distance from the spine edge to the
sewing stations and cut a 3-4mm strip out of one of the
greyboard pieces. This will be your front cover.
(5mm smaller than the page size)
• PVA glue + brush
• Bone folder
• Stanley Knife
• Cutting Matt
• Scrap paper
02. Apply glue to one sheet of the decorative cover paper. Place
the two pieces of the front cover board in the middle of the
glued paper, maintaining the 3-4mm gap.
Note
03. Cut off the corners of the cover paper, about 3-4mm from the
board. Fold the head and tail edges of the glued cover paper
over the board.
Using bookcloth on the covers will
create a stronger hinge. Either a full
cloth or quarter cloth style will work
Bookblock width
3-4mm gap
Inside front cover
04. Tuck in the corners of the paper with a bone folder or similar
tool, then fold the side edges of the paper over the board.
Rub down both sides well, using a sheet of paper to protect
the cover.
05. Repeat the above steps for the back cover.
06. Glue the smaller colour end papers to the inside of each
cover.
07. Put the covers between wax paper under a weight until dry.
Inside cover
Pinch in the corners with a bone folder
before turning in the fore-edge
Winchester School of Art Printmaking Workshop 2016
Printmaking Technician: Andy Reaney
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