Trusting Paws Dog Training, LLC
Collars and Harnesses for Walking
The most common complaint I hear from owners is pulling on the leash. My orthopedic doctor says he
repairs many torn tendons due to this problem, and I even had a client who broke his shoulder as a
result of being pulled down by his very large dog. A huge amount of force can be exerted by your dog
hitting the end of a leash. The longer the leash attached to the dog, the higher the impact on your arm
and shoulder.
A few years ago I received a painful rope burn on my hand that took over a month to heal when a
client’s Labrador Retriever bolted toward another dog that suddenly appeared while I was training her
on a 15 foot line. And this lab was wearing a no-pull harness. I prefer using soft leather leashes over the
nylon ones which are more abrasive on the hands. A retractable leash like a Flexi ™ actually teaches a
dog to pull because he gets to go where he wants up to a 15 foot radius by putting tension on the leash.
And have you ever had a dog wrap the skinny line of a Flexi around your legs while wearing shorts?
Ouch!
My most memorable pulling incident happened years ago when I was training service dogs. Yes, those
well-behaved working dogs you see in malls and restaurants are just like any other high energy sporting
dog when they are young. A group of us trainers went on a field trip to Boyd’s Big Tree Preserve in the
mountains north of Harrisburg. During a peaceful walk in the woods, we came upon a pond. I was
doing some hands-free training with a clicker and treats so I had the leash attached to my waist. As
soon as my dog saw the other dogs playing by the water’s edge, he took off. Down the muddy hill to
the pond he ran, dragging me face down laughing and screaming. It would have made a good YouTube
video! Luckily he spared me a dunking and stopped when he reached the pond. The moral of the story?
Use the proper equipment and be ready for the unexpected.
So, what is the best equipment to keep a dog from pulling and possibly embarrassing or injuring you?
Well, it depends on several things, like the size of the dog, its temperament, your patience, and your
willingness to take the time to learn how to use it correctly. I’ve tested numerous dog-walking products
in the form of collars and harnesses. Collars I’ve tested include: the plain buckle type, head collar,
choke chain, nylon choke, martingale style (aka greyhound collar), prong collar (metal and plastic) and
electric shock collar. Harnesses I’ve tried include: the standard style with the leash attachment on top of
the dog’s back, no-pull types with the leash attachment in front of the chest, and a harness with straps
that tighten under the dog’s armpits. I have even resorted to the emergency half hitch around the dog’s
belly with a 6 foot leash (works well in a pinch but I don’t recommend it for a long term solution).
A few decades ago, the choke collar was the tool of choice. It is what many obedience instructors and
training books recommended. With the collar place high on the dog’s neck, “corrections” (quick leash
jerks) were delivered when the dog pulled or went beyond a pre-determined radius from the handler’s
leg. The dog learned how to avoid this unpleasant consequence by sticking close to the handler. This
technique is still popular today despite the current trend toward less aversive training methods.
Pain avoidance can stop a dog from doing something you don’t like, but there is potential for
undesirable side effects. I have seen dogs whose necks have been injured by the improper use of choke
collars. I recently saw a dog that would lose consciousness when lunging at other dogs while wearing a
choke collar. The owner had expected the choking effect of the collar to be an adequate deterrent to
pulling, but this dog was of a breed that typically has a high tolerance to pain. For this dog, the benefits
of pulling far outweighed any discomfort, especially in a highly aroused state.
A dog can develop unintended associations with things in the environment when punishment is used in
training. For example, the sight of another dog can come to predict a painful leash correction, causing
the dog to become more agitated. The sight of the collar itself can cause a dog to shy away if it has
been paired with pain. A high level of skill is required when using equipment that relies on corrections.
Even so, unforeseen fallout can occur despite a person’s best efforts.
So what do I recommend? For most dogs, I like using a harness that allows the leash to be clipped in
front of the chest. When the dog forges ahead and hits the end of the leash, there is nothing into which
the dog can push (if you stand still). He will just spin around and end up facing you. It’s physics working
FOR you! I call it “power steering”. In contrast, a leash clipped onto the back just makes pulling more
comfortable for the dog (think sled dogs). My favorite brand of front clip harness is the Freedom No-Pull
Harness™ by Wiggles Wags and Whiskers. There are actually 2 rings for leash attachment, one in the
front and one on top of the back for additional options. A double ended leash can be used to clip onto
both rings for more control if desired. The belly strap is made of velvety material for comfort. A similar
harness called the Easy Walk Harness™ by Premier is more readily available in pet stores, but I prefer
the fit and comfort of the Freedom Harness over the other brands I’ve tried. A big advantage of these
harnesses is that most dogs readily accept wearing them.
I do not recommend harnesses with straps that tighten under the dog’s armpits to discourage pulling. I
have found that many dogs easily become accustomed to the restrictive feeling and end up pulling
anyway. There is also a greater chance of chafing due to excessive rubbing even with padding that
covers the straps.
A head collar is the most effective tool for difficult dogs or dogs that display threatening behaviors on
leash. There is a reason why horses are maneuvered at the head and not at the neck or back.
Controlling the head allows you to easily control the rest of the body. Gradual acclimation is required
when first introducing this type of equipment to an animal. I see many clients who have given up on
head collars because their dogs protested when this strange contraption was put on their faces. It is
unrealistic to put it on and expect the dog to instantly accept it and walk nicely. Horses need to be
gradually introduced to a halter, and so do dogs. Proper fit is crucial and assistance from a professional
trainer may be helpful for the acclimation process. My favorite brands are the Comfort Trainer™ and
Snoot Loop™ because of excellent fit and control, especially with dogs that bite. The Gentle Leader™
and Halti™ are 2 other brands readily available in pet stores, but I prefer the other 2 brands for the
reasons I mentioned.
Pulling on leash is a learned behavior, and your dog can quickly figure out that pulling works for him if
you allow it. You can inadvertently teach your dog to pull using any piece of equipment so teach him to
move in closer to you the instant he feels the leash tightening. This means you have to teach yourself
not to let your dog pull you even a single step toward where he wants to go!
Copyright 2012, Naomi Heck, all rights reserved.