Ribbed crochet head hugging hat
Using alternating front post and back post double crochet creates a very
stretchy fabric that is also quite thick even when made with finer yarns and
hooks. These properties makes for a great hat that will fit snugly and sit close
to the head, and if you choose to use pure wool, as I did, it will definitely keep
you warm. The elasticity of the fabric makes it possible to achieve a nice
domed shape by just increasing until the slightly cone shaped top is wide
enough and then work the straight sides without increases.
I have used American names for stitches, so British fellow crocheters will have
to convert them. I use Swedish yarns but I try to supply as much useful
information as possible in order to make it easier for you to use my pattern
with the yarns you have available.
This is my first published pattern, and English is my second language. If you
have suggestions for improvements do not hesitate to contact me, through
Ravelry (http://www.ravelry.com/people/jadler) or the contact service of my Google profile (http://wz.se/r).
Abbreviations
ch: chain, dc: double crochet, sc: single crochet, ss: slip stitch, sts: stitches
Post stitches: FP before stitch abbreviation means front post, BP means back post, so FPdc is front post dc, BPsc is
back post sc.
Post stitch increases: make two post dc around the same post, BP-BP-inc means two BPdc around the same post,
FP-BP-inc means FPdc and BPdc around the same post. (I found no standard abbreviations for these, so I made
them up.)
Notes
The side that is towards you while working is the inside, and the vertical ribs created by BPdc are on the outside.
I intentionally put the initial chains of each row in the ridge between two raised ribs in order to make them less
visible.
The BP-BP-inc on the third row connect all ribs at top center.
On increasing rows (after second row) the general idea is to put FPdc into FPdc in previous row, and BPdc into
BPdc, and to alternate FPdc and BPdc. All increases are made on top of the second stitch of the increase in the
previous row. The first part of the increase will be a continuation of the alternating pattern, the second part is
always BPdc (in the base pattern).
I make these hats long enough to be able to cover my ears almost completely, to keep me warm when it gets really
cold. In a warmer climate you may want to reduce the length of the sides.
The way I work I hardly ever care about gauge. I keep working, if it ends up too small or big I rip it up as far as I
need and try again. To help those of you who want to know what gauge to expect I have documented the actual
gauge of the finished product.
http://nyfiken.org/
Johan Adler
Nov 23, 2010
Ribbed crochet head hugging hat
Järbo Ullgarn
Yarn: Järbo Ullgarn, 150 g = 3 skeins, about 300 m. (100 % wool, 4-ply,
Worsted, recommended needle size 3.5 – 4 mm [US 4 – 6, UK 9 – 8])
Hook: 4 mm (US G/6, UK 8)
Gauge: On straight sides of finished hat, 24 sts, 15 rows per 10 cm (4 inches).
Fabric will be about 1.25 cm ½ inch) thick.
Size: Adult, head circumference about 60 ±5 cm. (Yes, it is very stretchy.)
1. Start with a double adjustable ring, ch 2 (counts as dc), 7 dc in ring, ss
to top ch. (8 sts)
2. ch 2, * BP-BP-inc *, BPdc around initial chains of first row, ss to top ch. (16 sts)
3. ch 2 (counts as FPdc from here on), BP-BP-inc, * FPdc, BP-BP-inc *, ss. (24 sts)
4. ch 2, BPdc, FP-BP-inc, * FPdc, BPdc, FP-BP-inc *, ss. (32 sts)
5. ch 2, BPdc, FPdc, BP-BP-inc, * FPdc, BPdc, FPdc, BP-BP-inc *, ss. (40 sts)
6. ch 2, BPdc, FPdc, BPdc, FP-BP-inc, * 2 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc *, ss. (48 sts)
7. ch 2, 2 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc, * FPdc, 2 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc *, ss. (56 sts)
8. ch 2, BPdc, 2 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc, * 3 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc *, ss. (64 sts)
9. ch 2, 3 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc, * FPdc, 3 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc* , ss. (72 sts)
10. ch 2, BPdc, 3 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc, * 4 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc *, ss. (80 sts)
11. ch 2, 4 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc, * FPdc, 4 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc* , ss. (88 sts)
12. ch 2, BPdc, 4 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc, * 5 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc *, ss. (96 sts)
13. ch 2, 5 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc, * FPdc, 5 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc* , ss. (104 sts)
14. ch 2, BPdc, 5 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc, * 6 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc *, ss. (112 sts)
15. ch 2, 6 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc, * FPdc, 6 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc* , ss. (120 sts)
16. ch 2, BPdc, 6 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc, * 7 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc *, ss. (128 sts)
Rows 17 to 32: ch 2, BPdc, * FPdc, BPdc *, ss. (128 sts)
Row 33: ch 1, BPsc, * ch, skip 1, BPsc *, ss.
http://nyfiken.org/
Johan Adler
Nov 23, 2010
Ribbed crochet head hugging hat
Garnstudio Drops Eskimo
Yarn: Garnstudio Drops Eskimo, 250 g = 5 skeins, about 250 m. (100 %
wool, round spun, Super Bulky, recommended needle size 9 mm [US 13,
UK 00])
Hook: 5.5 mm (US I/9, UK 5)
Gauge: On straight sides of finished hat, 15 sts, 10 rows per 10 cm (4 inches).
Fabric will be about 1.75 cm (5/8 inch) thick.
Size: Adult, head circumference about 60 ±5 cm.
1. Start with a double adjustable ring, ch 2 (counts as dc), 7 dc in ring, ss
to top ch. (8 sts)
2. ch 2, * BP-BP-inc *, BPdc around initial chains of first row, ss to top
ch. (16 sts)
3. ch 2 (counts as FPdc from here on), BP-BP-inc, * FPdc, BP-BP-inc *, ss.
(24 sts)
4. ch 2, BPdc, FP-BP-inc, * FPdc, BPdc, FP-BP-inc *, ss. (32 sts)
5. ch 2, BPdc, FPdc, BP-BP-inc, * FPdc, BPdc, FPdc, BP-BP-inc *, ss.
(40 sts)
6. ch 2, BPdc, FPdc, BPdc, FP-BP-inc, * 2 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc *, ss. (48 sts)
7. ch 2, 2 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc, * FPdc, 2 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc *, ss. (56 sts)
8. ch 2, BPdc, 2 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc, * 3 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc *, ss. (64 sts)
9. ch 2, 3 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc, * FPdc, 3 (BPdc, FPdc), BP-BP-inc* , ss. (72 sts)
10. ch 2, BPdc, 3 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc, * 4 (FPdc, BPdc), FP-BP-inc *, ss. (80 sts)
Rows 11 to 24: ch 2, BPdc, * FPdc, BPdc *, ss. (80 sts)
Row 25: ch 1, BPsc, * ch, skip 1, BPsc *, ss.
http://nyfiken.org/
Johan Adler
Nov 23, 2010
Ribbed crochet head hugging hat
Variations
Adapting to other yarns, hooks and gauges
In order to get even ribbing on the vertical sides of the hat you should keep
increasing an even number of rows, since the even rows use the FP-BP-inc and
hence give you alternating FPdc and BPdc all the way.
For an adult size hat I keep increasing until the diameter (with the work pressed
flat, e.g. against a table) is about 18.5 cm (and I have an even number of rows).
The target circumference in my case is about 60 cm, the corresponding
diameter is 60 / π or about 19 cm.
So my advice would be to keep increasing until you have an even number of rows (alternating BPdc and FPdc all
the way) and the diameter of the flattened work is about the same as the desired diameter of the finished hat.
Alternate beginning
The choice of stitches on the second row makes interesting differences. Using FPdc all the way will give you a nice
raised ring on the outside. (I have also tried “ch 2, * BP-FP-inc *, BPdc around initial chains of first row” but I find
it to be too flat and out of style with the rest of the hat.)
Alternate finishing
Work front posts instead for a more subtle edge: ch 2, * FPsc, ch, skip 1 *, ss.
Make two finishing rows, one in front posts and one in back posts, for a really wide flat edge.
For a nice looking zig-zag edge: ch 2, BPsc, ch, * FPsc, ch, BPsc, ch *, ss. (Alas this version will result in a wider row,
so the edge will not be as close to the head. Thus I do not really recommend it, and if you do use it, try a smaller hook.)
Other ideas
Rows with alternating color will emphasize the structure and it looks good too.
Use crossed BPdc (beginning at row 6) to get braided cables. This might make the fabric less stretchy, though.
Licence
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.
To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/ or send a letter to
Creative Commons, 171 Second Street, Suite 300, San Francisco, California, 94105, USA.
http://nyfiken.org/
Johan Adler
Nov 23, 2010