a TI M ATKI N MW S PEC IAL R E P O RT Argentina 2014 Special Report by Tim Atkin MW £12 ¤14 $20 © 2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Contents Pg 05Introduction 07 Winemakers of Argentina 12 The 10 things you need to know about Argentina 15 Top 25s 16 A personal selection of Argentina’s best wines 17 A short guide to Argentina’s growing regions 19 A note about scoring 46 Tasting Notes 68 Complete scores A-Z 79 Recommended restaurants 80 Further reading 81Acknowledgements Thank you for buying a copy of this report, which is the result of a lot tasting, travel and hard work, as well as no little pleasure. Please respect the laws of copyright and don’t share the PDF with other people. Instead, encourage them to pay for their own copy, so that my team of experts and I can continue to write and publish first-hand reports on the major wine regions of the world. Muchas gracias por comprar una copia de este reporte, el cuál es el resultado de muchas degustaciones, viajes y mucho esfuerzo, aunque no poco placentero. Por favor respete la ley de derechos de autor y no comprata este PDF con otras personas. En su lugar, invítelos a comprar su propia copia, de esta forma mi equipo de expertos y yo podemos seguir escribiendo y publicando reportes de primera mano sobre las mayores regiones del mundo. new breed of “ The Argentinean wines is less oaky and full-bodied than the norm, leaving the palate refreshed rather than fatigued. ” Page 02 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Introduction “We are survival experts,” my taxi driver, Ernesto Chervo, told me on my way to the airport at the end of my most recent trip to Argentina. And it’s true. Regular visitors learn not to take talk of impending financial and political meltdown too seriously. The country may be going through one of its periodic spells of macro-economic turmoil, but that’s nothing new. They seem to occur at the rate of one a decade and bust is always followed by boom, a trough by a peak. Through it all, the optimism of the Argentine people somehow remains intact, helped by the unofficial black market “dollar blue” and that instinct for survival. Argentina’s economy may be in the doldrums, that the wines were lighter and fresher in the but the national wine industry has cause for past, despite their manifest faults. International cautious optimism. Overseas companies are not consultants encouraged an understanding of investing at the rate they did between 2003 and the importance cleanliness in the winery, as 2007 (the biggest recent expansion) but new well as the use of new barrels and more fruit wineries are still opening and existing ones are forward wines. It wasn’t all about outsiders either. producing better wines than ever. To cite only Argentinean companies such as Catena Zapata, three outstanding bodegas that have emerged in Luigi Bosca, Trapiche and Zuccardi, to name but the last few years: Tres 14, Per Se and Casarena. a few, made advances of their own. This was also Change rarely moves at a uniform pace. a period that saw the planting of new and exciting Sometimes it’s sluggish, sometimes it has a spring vineyards in places such as the Uco Valley, as well in its toes. Argentina’s wine industry is currently as the rediscovery of old vines that were in danger exhibiting the latter tendency. In the space of two of neglect, or of being grubbed up. years, the improvement in quality of the country’s It would be a mistake to say that producers white wines, Pinot Noirs, Cabernet Francs, overlooked the importance of terroir. But it was red blends and, most excitingly of all given the arguably of secondary importance. Establishing variety’s iconic status in Argentina, its Malbecs, the name of Argentina on export markets, as well has been spectacular. In the twenty years that as that of Malbec, was a more important goal. I have been visiting the country I have never Argentina developed a very successful reputation witnessed such rapid development in such a short for producing soft, sweet, aromatic reds, often space of time. with quite a bit of oak and generally (for the It’s important to remember that, despite its Spanish roots in the 16th century, the modern Argentinean wine industry is little more than more expensive examples at least) packaged in a heavy bottle. That reputation still exists and has done thirty years old. In the early 1980s, the prevailing wonders for the country’s wine industry. But there wine styles were flat and oxidised, what one are welcome signs that Argentinean winemakers oenologist dismisses as “the Sherry approach are looking to the next stage. Argentina is a to winemaking”. What replaced it in the 1980s, famously hot, continental place to make wine (it’s 1990s and 2000s was a more international comparatively warm, even at altitude or southerly approach, influenced primarily by the United latitudes) and the styles generally reflect that. States, but also by France, Italy and the United But there is a perceptible shift towards fresher Kingdom. wines with lower alcohol levels, led by the Few would deny that such changes were for the good, although Gerardo Michelini argues Michelini brothers (of Passionate Wine and Zorzal and under their own eponymous label) Page 05 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report but increasingly followed by other wineries, too. our wines,” says Antonini. “Over-ripe fruit and The new breed of Argentinean wines is less oaky over-extraction don’t show terroir. In fact, quite and full-bodied than the norm, leaving the palate the opposite. Premium grapes release aromas refreshed rather than fatigued. and flavours more easily and don’t need lots of People are talking about vineyard sources far new oak to show at their best. Less is more when more than they did even two years ago. Certain you have great fruit. The same is true of the sub-regions in Argentina (Agrelo, La Consulta winemaker. Gianfranco Soldera of Case Basse and Las Compuertas, for example) have always in Montalcino says that ‘the winemaker is the had a reputation for growing very good grapes, screwdriver, not the Ferrari’. In recent years, but the focus on site has become much narrower we’ve focused too much on the Ferraris.” of late. The appreciation of terroir is at its most At the highest level of Argentinean wine, acute in Mendoza, especially in Luján de Cuyo the shift is from technique to terroir. “With and the Uco Valley. Some of these vines are more technique you can’t stand out from the crowd,” than 100 years old, but many (particularly in the adds Antonini, “with terroir you can.” I think Uco Valley’s Gualtallary and Altamira are not). he’s correct. The ripe, often slightly sweet As the vines in these two sub-regions mature, the “caramelo” styles that have served Argentina so improvement in the quality of the best wines will well for the last 25 years were an improvement be awesome. on what preceded them, but they often taste What is the best way to express differences formulaic, at least to me. Fresher, more balanced in terroir? Let’s hear from Alberto Antonini, wines with a true sense of place are an exciting the Italian who has masterminded the changes new development, helped by two excellent and at Altos Las Hormigas as well as consulting generally cooler vintages in 2013 and 2011 in most for Zuccardi, another winery at the crest of the parts of the country. Will the market appreciate new wave. “Our mission is to preserve purity in them? Fingers crossed. “ Argentina is a famously hot, continental place to make wine.” Page 06 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Winemakers of Argentina Clockwise from top left: Alejandro Vigil, Alejandro Sejanovich, Alejandro Pepa, Mariano di Paola, Edy del Popolo, José Spisso, Gustavo Bertagna, Gerardo Danitz, Leni Martínez. Page 07 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Clockwise from top left: David Bonomi, Angel Cordoba, Bastien Perrenoud, Thibault Delmotte, Piero Inchisa della Rochetta, Andrea Marchiori, Manuel González, Pepe Zuccardi, Javier Lo Forte. Page 08 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Clockwise from top left: Gustavo Soto, Alberto Antonini, Philippe Rolet, Daniel Pi, Juan Pablo Michelini, Lis Persico, Hans Vinding-Diers, Walter Bressia, Pepe Galante (centre). Page 09 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Clockwise from top left: Mariano Quiroga, Guijo Barsi, Pedro Parra, Edu Pulenta, Matías Riccitelli, Roberto Luka, Sebastián Zuccardi, Santiago Achaval. Page 10 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Clockwise from top left: Hervé and Diane Joyaux, Roberto de la Mota, Leonardo Erazu, José-Manuel Ortega Fournier, Nicolas Audebert, Marcelo Pelleriti (centre). Page 11 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Ten things you need to know about Argentina Argentina is the fifth most del Desierto, Bodega del Río Elorza, Bressia, significant wine-producing Catena Zapata, Casarena, Melipal, Per Se, country on the planet after Pulenta Estate, Riglos, Tres 14, Zaha and Zorzal. France, Italy, Spain and the United States. No less a winemaker than Alejandro Vigil of At the most recent count, it had 217, 750 hectares Catena Zapata thinks that Cabernet Franc has of vineyards and an annual production of around greater potential in Argentina than Cabernet 15 million hectolitres. But these bald statistics Sauvignon. Other “lesser” red varieties to look only tell part of the story. Wine, like tango, out for are Tannat (Colomé, Davalos, El Porvenir football and “parillas” (barbecues), is part of de Cafayate, Michel Torino and San Pedro Argentina’s national culture in a way that it is not de Yacochuya), Petit Verdot (Viña Vida) and in Chile, Brazil or Uruguay, the other three most Bonarda (Altos Las Hormigas, Nieto Senetiner, important wine-producing countries in South Passionate Wine and Zuccardi). America. Argentineans may not drink their national wines with the gusto they once did – per Argentina is making some of capita consumption has fallen from 90 litres in South America’s best Pinot Noirs. the 1970s to 28 litres today, most of it so-called As someone who was a signed up “vinos corrientes” (every day wines) and “finitos” member of the “Argentinean Pinot: why do they (between every day wines and fine wines) – but bother?” society, I was amazed by the quality they are still enthusiastic and patriotic drinkers. of the Pinots I tasted on my most recent trip. I’d always liked the Pinots from Chacra, Piero Red wines dominate production, Incisa della Rocchetta’s Patagonian outpost, but to the tune of 72.5% of the thought they were exceptions to a disappointing country’s total. This isn’t so rule. Argentina’s best Pinots – from Gualtallary, surprising when you consider the national San Pablo, Río Negro and Neuquén (especially predilection for beef (roughly twelve times Añelo) – are now a match for anything but the greater than it is in the UK) and the fact that very best of Chile. Apart from Chacra, other most of Argentina’s wines are produced in warm, impressive producers are Familia Schroeder, near-desert conditions. There are certainly Humberto Canale, Manos Negras, Passionate cooler climates in parts of Patagonia, Cafayate Wine, Salentein and Zorzal. and the higher Uco Valley, but this is a country that is better suited to red than white grapes. Malbec is still Argentina’s signature red grape and will be Cabernet Franc has a very for as long as grapes are grown exciting future. Statistically there. It is also the variety that has established speaking, it is comparatively the country on export markets, especially the unimportant (at least for now) but it is very United States. But Malbec has been something successful in parts of Argentina, either as a of a mixed blessing, as it tends to blind many blending component, or as a stand-alone wine. consumers to the other wine styles Argentina Producers doing exciting things with the grape produces. Grapes like Cabernet Franc, Pinot include Andeluna, Bodega Aleanna, Bodega Noir, Petit Verdot, Tannat and Syrah (as well as Page 12 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report the superb red blends) would surely enjoy greater of Chilean Sauvignon or Chardonnay on visits popularity on export markets if Malbec’s image to Mendoza. But the local whites are much were not so dominant. fresher and more varied than they were, partly A crucial next step – to avoid Malbec as a result of cooler vintages in 2013 and 2011. becoming something of a commodity, as much Torrontés is only the second most planted as anything else – is to emphasise regional and white variety in the country (if you combine its sub-regional differences. three main clones – Riojano, Sanjuanino and You only have to taste a range of Malbecs Mendocino – it has 24.2% of the white total, from different producers and parts of the behind the bulk wine grape, Pedro Giménez) but country to appreciate that this is a grape that it is Argentina’s USP. My good friend Fabricio “contains multitudes”, as the poet Walt Whitman Portelli, Argentina’s leading wine writer, thinks once put it in another context. Malbecs from that the grape is “original and different, but not Cafayate and Río Negro, to take two geographical great”. I take a slightly different view, based on extremes, can almost taste as if they are made my tasting of the wines from Dominio del Plata from different varieties. The same goes for the (Benmarco) and Alta Vista, both of whom make sub-regions of Mendoza. Just taste an Altamira very tasty examples. Malbec (especially one grown on limestone soils) The list of good whites doesn’t stop there. against one from, say, Luján de Cuyo. Malbec is There are also a growing number of impressive capable of a range of aromas and flavours and it’s Chardonnays (Bramare, Catena Zapata, Doña high time that Argentina emphasised this. Paula, Escorihuela Gascon, Rutini and Salentein) Part of the improvements in the quality of and Sauvignon Blancs (Bacán, Finca Sophenia, Argentina’s top Malbecs is down to the move O Fournier, Passionate Wine and Zorzal). Other away from what Sebastián Zuccardi calls “the wines that are worth tasting include Mendel’s Bordeaux formula”. He adds: “We used to think Semillon, Terrazas de los Andes’ sweet Petit that to make a good Malbec you had to treat it Manseng, Walter Bressia’s Lágrima Canella, a like Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, but it’s a very blend of mostly Chardonnay with 30% Semillon, different grape. It has more in common with and Amalaya’s cuvée of Torrontés and 15% Sangiovese or Garnacha. We need to rethink the Riesling. Argentina is also making steps, rather way we make Malbec.” than strides, forward with Riesling, Viognier and Pinot Gris. Red blends can be every bit as good as varietal wines. Malbec may The expression of individual steal most of the headlines (as well as terroirs is becoming increasingly the body copy) in Argentina, but consumers and important. Argentineans have always critics often overlook the quality of the Malbec- been adept at viticulture, largely rejecting the and increasingly Cabernet Franc-based blends. discredited New World line that “soil is dirt” Other varieties that work well in combination from an early stage, but there is now increasing include Syrah, Tannat, Petit Verdot, Merlot, focus on planting the right varieties in the right Bonarda, Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. places as well as at the right altitude. To take Outstanding exponents of red blends include only one example, Vistaflores in the Uco Valley Archival Ferrer, Alta Vista, Andeluna, Bodega has no fewer than nine different micro-terroirs. Aleanna, Bressia, Catena Zapata, Colomé, Fabre Not all of them are ideal for Malbec. Montmayou, Finca Decero, Luigi Bosca, Mendel, As Alberto Arizu of Luigi Bosca (as well as Michelini Brothers, Noemía, Norton, O Fournier, the outgoing president of Wines of Argentina) Passionate Wine, Per Se, Pulenta Estate, puts it: “The challenge for the next 10 years Trapiche, tres 14, Riglos, Rutini, Viña Alicia, is to focus on our terroirs – not the broader Zorzal and Zuccardi. geographical terroirs or the political terroirs, but the terroirs that give the vine and the Argentina’s white wines are improving by the vintage. Not so long ago, I used to long for a glass grapes character.” To this end, the digging of “calicatas” (pits) – to examine and understand what lies under Page 13 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report the surface of the vineyard rather than just its Pelleriti), Bodega Aleanna (Alejandro Vigil) and topsoil – is increasingly common, with Altos La Roberto de la Mota (La Revancha). All of them Hormigas, Catena Zapata, Doña Paula, Mendel, are worth buying. Passionate Wine, Salentein and Zuccardi leading This is not to overlook the ongoing the way. Two French-trained viticulturists, one contribution of outsiders, not just the famous Chilean (Pedro Parra) and one Argentinean quartet of international oenologists (Roberto (Martín Kaiser), have been particularly Cipresso, Michel Rolland, Alberto Antonini and influential, especially in identifying sites with a Paul Hobbs) who have invested their own money high percentage of limestone in the Uco Valley. in establishing high-end projects in Argentina This is a comparatively recent discovery and as well as working as consultants, but also the it is changing the face of Argentinean wine, likes of Hans Vinding-Diers (Noemía), Dieter producing more mineral reds and whites. Maier (Ojo de Vino), Giuseppe Franceschini Not so long ago, altitude was what producers (Franceschini Posenato), Piero Inchisa focused on above all. It’s an important factor, but de la Rocchetta (Chacra), François Lurton it’s far from the only one. A vineyard situated (Piedra Negra), Thibaut Delmotte (Colomé), at 1,000 metres in Mendoza is very different Nicolas Audebert (Terrazas de los Andes and from one at the same altitude in San Juan. Soil, Cheval des Andes), Philippe Rolet (Alta Vista), latitude, climate and the elusive human element Leonardo Erazu (Altos Las Hormigas) and are crucial too. Aurelio Montes (Kaikén). The current crop of Argentinean Argentina’s biggest problems winemakers is the best the are economic ones. Inflation at country has ever had. Nor is it 30%, high unemployment, a crime just a case of the younger generation bringing wave, an uncompetitive official exchange rate a new sense of dynamism to the industry. The and currency controls have all but put a stop to contribution of people like Sebastián Zuccardi outside investment, and not only in the wine (Familia Zuccardi), Juan Pablo Michelini industry. They have also made it difficult for (Zorzal), Mariano Quiroga (El Porvenir de los wineries to buy barrels and other imported Andes), Karim Mussi (Altocedro) and Matías goods. A substantial devaluation and quite Riccitelli (Fabre Montmayou and Domaine possibly a change of government in 2015 appear Vistalba) has certainly been significant, but to be on the cards. This may resolve the situation more established winemakers have upped their – Argentina is no stranger to wildly fluctuating game, too. The wines from Daniel Pi (Trapiche), economic cycles – but it may not. Matías Michelini (Passionate Wine), Alejandro Nicolás Catena, an economist as well as Sejanovich (Manos Negras and Tinto Negro), the owner of Catena Zapata and part owner of Roberto de la Mota (Mendel), Alejandro Vigil Escorihuela and Rutini, predicts that “we could (Catena Zapata), José Spisso (O Fournier), Juan be facing another 2002”, the year of the most Carlos Rodriguez Villa (Riglos), Marcelo Pelleriti serious recent economic crisis, but says that the (Monteviejo), Susana Balbo and Edy del Popolo wine industry is well placed to survive the storm (Dominio de Plata), Andrea Marchiori (Viña and ensuing wreckage, largely because it brings Cobos), Pepe Galante (Salentein), Alejandro badly needed dollars into the country. “The more Pepa (El Esteco), David Bonomi (Doña Paula), inefficient the government,” he adds, “the higher Santiago Archival (Archival Ferrer and The the importance of exports.” Vines of Mendoza), Jorge Riccitelli (Norton) and Walter Bressia (Bressia) are the best they have ever made. It is also significant that several of these winemakers have their own projects alongside their day jobs for larger companies: Per Se (Edy del Popolo), tres 14 (Daniel Pi), Mariano di Paola (Mariano di Paola), Marcelo Pelleriti (Marcelo Page 14 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Top 25s producers Top 25 Top 25 Top 25 PRODUCERS VALUE PRODUCERS WINERIES TO WATCH Achaval Ferrer Amalaya Belasco de Baquedano Altos Las Hormigas Bodega El Esteco/Michel Bodega Aleanna Bressia Torino Bodega del Río Elorza Casarena Broquel (Trapiche) El Porvenir de Cafayate Catena Zapata Catena Familia Schroeder Chacra Chakana Finca Decero Colomé Clos de los Siete Finca El Origen De Angeles Coquena Gauchezco Doña Paula Domaine Bousquet Lagarde Fabre Montmayou Dominio del Plata Lariviere Yturbe Mendel El Portillo (Salentein) La Giostra del Vino (Bácan) Noemía Etchart La Revancha Norton Felino (Viña Cobos) Manos Negras O Fournier Finca Flichman Mariano di Paola Passionate Wine Finca Las Moras Mater Vini Piedra Negra Graffigna Montechez Pulenta Estate Humberto Canale Mythic Estate Riglos Masi Ojo de Vino Rutini Mauricio Lorca Per Se Salentein Norton Recuerdo Trapiche Piedra Negra TintoNegro Viña Alicia Santa Julia Tres 14 Viña Cobos Terrazas de los Andes Valle de la Puerta Zorzal Trumpeter (Rutini) Viña Vida Zuccardi Urban Uco (O Fournier) Vinorum Viñalba Page 15 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report A Personal Selection of Argentina’s Best Wines Malbec Other Reds 2011 Achaval Ferrer Finca Bella Vista 2012 Altos Las Hormigas Appellation Vistaflores 2011 Casarena Lauren’s Vineyard 2010 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard 2011 Cobos 2011 De Angeles Viña 1924 Single Vineyard 2010 Doña Paula Los Indios Parcel 2011 Noemía 2010 Trapiche Terroir Series, Finca Ambrosia 2011 Zuccardi Aluvional, La Consulta 2009 Andeluna Pasionado Cabernet Franc 2010 Bressia Monteagrelo Cabernet Franc 2010 Bodega Aleanna Gran Enemigo Cabernet Franc 2011 Chacra Treinta y Dos Pinot Noir 2012 Passionate Wine Punta Negra Pinot Noir 2010 Pulenta Estate Gran Cabernet Franc 2011 Riglos Gran Cabernet Franc 2011 Salentein Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Plot No. 1 2007 Viña Alicia Nebbiolo 2012 Zuccardi Emma Zuccardi Bonarda Red Blends 2008 Andeluna Pasionado Cuatro Cepas 2008 Bressia Conjuro 2010 Fabre Montmayou Grand Vin 2011 Tres 14 Imperfecto 2011 Mendel Unus 2010 Nicolás Catena Zapata 2008 Norton Gernot Langes 2012 Per Se La Craie 2011 Riglos Gran Corte 2010 Rutini Encuentro Barrel Blend Whites 2011 Bacán Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2010 Bressia Lágrima Canela 2010 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay 2013 Doña Paula Chardonnay 2013 Mendel Semillon 2013 Dominio del Plata Benmarco Torrontés 2012 Rutini Chardonnay 2011 Salentein Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Plot No. 2 2010 Terrazas de los Andes Petit Manseng 2013 Zorzal Eggo Sauvignon Blanc Page 16 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report A short guide to Argentina’s Growing Regions Argentina’s vineyards stretch from 22° to 42° La Rioja latitude. Most are planted within sight of the Vineyard area: 7,067 hectares Andes, although altitudes vary considerably, Main varieties: Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, from 250m to just over 3,100m. Here are the Chardonnay, Malbec, Syrah, Torrontés most important details about each of the wine In a nutshell: The site of Argentina’s first regions. Grape varieties of particular interest are vineyards. Some good wines here – the Fairtrade highlighted in bold. and organic projects are particularly interesting – while the La Riojana co-operative is one of the Catamarca Vineyard area: 2,539 hectares country’s best. An area with as yet unrealised potential, although the wines from Valle de la Puerta are worth looking out for. Main varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Syrah, Torrontés In a nutshell: Isolated, mountainous and Mendoza generally less well developed, wine-wise than Vineyard area: 154,215 hectares neighbouring Salta. The centre of the wine Main varieties: Bonarda, Cabernet Franc, industry is the Fiambala Valley, but this is one Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin, Argentina’s least well-visited regions. Recent Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon plantings in the Santa Maria district by Michel Blanc, Syrah, Tempranillo, Tocai Friulano, Torino are promising. Torrontés, Semillon, Viognier In a nutshell: The hub of the Argentinean wine industry. A large and varied area that produces most of the country’s best wines. Maipú, East Mendoza and San Rafael tend to produce cheaper styles than the best sub-regions: traditional Luján de Cuyo (which includes Agrelo, Perdriel, Lunlunta, Ugarteche and Vistalba) and the cooler, higher altitude Uco Valley (see separate entry). La Pampa Vineyard area: 211 hectares Main varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Viognier Mostly known for the production of a single winery (Bodega del Desierto), this is a new, isolated vineyard area that has been making wine since 2004. The initial results are promising, made with help from American guru, Paul Hobbs. Page 17 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Neuquén San Juan Vineyard area: 1,656 hectares Vineyard area: 47,227 hectares Main varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Main varieties: Bonarda, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, , Chardonnay, Malbec, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon. Merlot, Moscatel, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, In a nutshell: Comparatively new, low-lying Torrontés, Ugni Blanc, Viognier (for Argentina) area created thanks to a large In a nutshell: A large, mostly hot area that is irrigation dam less than a decade ago. Quality second only to Mendoza in size. Produces a is good rather than spectacular, as this is quite lot of basic, quaffing wine, much of destined a warm area. But the wines are improving with for domestic consumption, but more recent every year, as the vines get older. The red, iron- plantings in the higher, cooler Pedernal and rich soils of Añelo are very promising. Calingasta Valleys are promising. Makes some of Argentina’s best Syrahs. Tucumán Vineyard area: 89 hectares Main varieties: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Tannat, Torrontés, Syrah In a nutshell: Best known for its share of the Calchaquí Valley (with neighbouring Catamarca and Salta). Plantings are comparatively small and are mostly located in the sparsely populated Tafí del Valle department. High altitude viticulture (starting at 1,800m) is the theme here Río Negro in a region that has real promise. Vineyard area: 1,733 hectares Main varieties: Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Uco Valley Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Vineyard area: 25,000 hectares Ugni Blanc Main varieties: Cabernet Franc, In a nutshell: The oldest vine-growing region Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, in Patagonia and the source of most of its best Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon wines, with greater freshness and longevity than Blanc, Syrah, Tempranillo those of Neuquén to the west. Marked diurnal In a nutshell: Currently the most exciting temperature swings and old vines make this an region in Argentina, thanks to a combination area to watch for everything from Pinot Noir to of foreign investment, high altitudes, the Malbec, via Merlot and Riesling. proximity of the Andes, old vines (especially in La Consulta) and new plantings in Gualtallary. Salta The potential of Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Malbec (especially if it’s grown on limestone) Vineyard area: 2,552 hectares is enormous, especially as some of the new Main varieties: Bonarda, Cabernet vineyards mature. Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin, Malbec, Merlot, Tannat, Syrah, Torrontés In a nutshell: Contains the highest vineyards in the world (at 3,111), framed by a dry, cactusstrewn desert. Some increasingly good red blends here, but only a handful of really good producers. Still best known for its Torrontés Riojano, but plantings are now shared equally between reds and white. Page 18 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report A note about scoring The wines for this report were tasted in Talking to winemakers and viticulturists is Argentina and London over a period of two the best way to understand local conditions, months in November and December 2013. Some vintage variations and stylistic nuances. I am a were tasted at individual wineries, but many sufficiently experienced taster to judge a wine for were assessed at bespoke blind and sighted what it is, warts, beauty spots and all. tastings organised by Winifera and Wines of This report runs to more than 25,000 words. Argentina in Mendoza and Buenos Aires. I tasted Rather than provide a tasting note for every one many of these wines on more than one occasion. of the 500+ wines I sampled, I have concentrated If significant discrepancies occurred in my on those that scored 90 points or more. It is a scores, I tried another sample back in London. measure of the improvements in Argentinean wine that there were 161 of these in my 2012 Almost all of the wines I assessed were report and more than twice that number here. bottled, but there were a few wines that I I’ve suggested a drinking window for each wine tasted as (nearly) finished samples from tank and, where appropriate, provided its varietal or barrel. It would be a shame to deprive you of make up. the outstanding wines from Per Se or the new, terroir-based Malbecs from Altos Las Hormigas by being too prescriptive. Have a look at the example below to see how I’ve organised the information for each wine When I taste at a winery, I am more than happy to discuss the wines (but not my final score or tasting note) with the person who made them. Some critics would argue that this exerts an influence on the taster, but I see it differently. Wine name score Alcohol level, Region A short tasting Drinking window Page 19 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Tasting notes Recommended wines Reds 97 97 96 96 2010 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Ambrosía 15.5%, Gualtallary These are the youngest vines of the three Terroir Series Malbecs from 2010, but this amazing wine is my favourite of the trio, partly because I love the freshness and minerality that the Gualtallary region confers. This is like a cross between a Malbec and a northern Rhône Syrah, with white pepper and clove spice mingling with sweet raspberry, plum and red cherry fruit. Long and very satisfying, it has lovely, clean acidity and wonderfully transparent flavours. The best Terroir Series Malbec Daniel Pi has ever made, this is a remarkable wine, which will only improve with age. Drink: 2015-25 2011 Zuccardi Aluvional 15%, La Consulta The 2010 La Consulta Aluvional was impressive, but this wine is in another league entirely and deserves to take its place among the Southern Hemisphere’s best red wines. The grapes are sourced from a vineyard planted in 1974 (not as old as some in La Consulta) and has immense power and density of fruit. Densely coloured, plush and intense, it shows a seamless integration between oak and blackberry and raspberry fruit, fine acidity and a long, tapering finish. Sublime winemaking from Sebastián Zuccardi, whose wines just get better and better. Drink: 2015-25 2011 Achaval Ferrer Finca Bella Vista Malbec 14%, Perdriel Bella Vista in Perdriel makes Malbecs that are equally delicious young as they are with five to ten years’ bottle age. This is a stunning wine: mineral and fresh, with rose petal and violet perfume, slinky tannins, subtle oak and a finish that lingers on the palate. Winemaking of the highest order from Santiago Achaval. Drink: 2014-20 2012 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Appellation Altamira 14%, Altamira The single vineyard releases from Altos won’t hit the market for another year or so, but they are so good that I can’t resist writing about them now. This is hauntingly perfumed and fresh with violets and spices on the nose, deftly integrated oak, flavours of liquorice, damson and blackberry and a zesty, chalk-infused tang. Drink: 2015-22 Page 20 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 96 2012 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Appellation Gualtallary 13.9%, Gualtallary Wilder and more herbal than the Altamira bottling from Altos, this has a garrigue-like perfume of wild herbs that wouldn’t look out of place in the south of France. Extreme and almost austere on the palate, this has acidity, minerality and palate length in abundance. Drink: 2015-22 2012 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Appellation Vistaflores 14%, Vistaflores The richest and most powerful of the three terroir bottlings from Altos (as you’d expect from Vistaflores), this has added weight and sweetness as well as limestone-derived freshness from the Arroyo Grande. It’s a Vistaflores wine, but with elements of Gualtallary, too. These are still comparatively young vines. Imagine how good this wine will be in 20 years’ time... Drink: 2015-22 2010 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard Malbec 13.9%, Tupungato My favourite of the Catena Malbecs, this is a classic high altitude style, showing intense colour and wonderfully vibrant aromas and flavours that are so typical of the variety. Supple tannins, deft use of oak and freshness and minerality balances the depth and power of the fruit, with 30% whole bunch adding an appealingly spicy twist. Drink: 2014-20 2011 De Angeles Viña 1924 Single Vineyard Gran Malbec 14.9%, Vistalba This famous vineyard has been in the same family since 1924. The fruit used to be sold to Terrazas but now goes to De Angeles among others. It’s a venerable parcel that yields incredible grapes. Showing effortless concentration, it’s remarkably floral and perfumed, with sweetness, texture and old vine concentration on the palate, fine tannins and subtle oak. The essence of modern Malbec from an old source. Drink: 2014-20 2010 Doña Paula Los Indios Parcel Malbec 14%, Altamira It’s surprising how young are the vines for this top end Malbec (they were planted in 2006) given the quality of what’s in the bottle. It’s very perfumed, with aromas of rosemary and violets, backed up by understated oak (none of it new) and subtle blackberry and plum fruit. Fresh and mineral, the wine lingers teasingly on the palate. And the vines were only four years old. Drink: 2014-20 2010 Nicolás Catena Zapata 13.7%, Mendoza The blend of Catena’s top red wine has changed a bit since the first vintage in 2001, with a move away from Malbec towards Bordeaux varieties. The impressive 2010 combines 75% Cabernet with 25% Malbec and is a wine that, based on its predecessors, will keep and develop for a decade or more. Savoury, aromatic and complex, this still-youthful wine has remarkable weight and intensity of flavour, combining notes of violet, rose petal, sweet Asian spices and a core of red and black fruits. Tuck a bottle away for a decade. Drink: 2016-22 Page 21 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 96 96 96 96 95 95 2011 Trapiche Terroir Series Malbec Cristina y Bibiana Coletto 15%, Tupungato This exceptional terroir series Malbec comes from one of the cooler areas in the Uco Valley, with a marked influence from the Andes. Old vines and minerality are a winning combination, and that is the case here: dense, aromatic, sweet and structured with remarkable focus and length. The alcohol is integral to the wine here, which is not always so in Argentina. Drink: 2014-22 2011 Tres 14 Imperfecto 14.7%, Gualtallary Daniel Pi’s top wine is a blend of mostly Malbec with (guess what?) 3% Cabernet Franc, all from high altitude Gualtallary. Pepper spice, minerality and freshness combine beautifully with new French oak here to produce a wine that is as complex as it is exciting. There’s not much of it, but this is a modern style, terroir-focused Malbec that belongs among the finest examples in the country. A brilliant effort. Drink: 2014-20 2011 Viña Cobos Malbec 14.9%, Perdriel Cobos has come from the same vineyard block in Perdriel since 1999 and the old vine concentration is a large part of its appeal. It’s built for the long haul, with lashings of oak, plush tannins and a tightly-wound core of sweet black fruits embellished by Asian spices. Dense, yet somehow vibrant and refreshing at the same time, it’s a stunning wine. Drink: 2016-20 2011 Zuccardi Aluvional 14%, Altamira Made from a blend of grapes from a grower in Altamira and the Zuccardis’ own vineyards, this is an abundantly perfumed wine, with hints of ginger and Asian spices as well as violets. On the palate it’s textured, polished and very smooth, with abundant red fruits, bright acidity and a long, chalky aftertaste. An exceptional Malbec. Drink: 2015-25 2011 Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley This excellent La Consulta Malbec has focused attention on the brilliance of this Uco Valley sub-region, such is its fame and reputation. It’s generally more ethereal than Bella Vista, at least in its youth, and that’s the case here. It’s perfumed, mineral and refined with red fruits’ flavours that nod towards red Burgundy. Subtle and elegant with a long, tapering finish. Drink: 2014-18 2008 Bressia Conjuro 14.5%, Uco Valley Released late with some bottle age to allow the wine to express its nuances, this blend of mostly Malbec with 30% Cabernet and 20% Merlot comes from purchased Uco Valley grapes. It’s riper than the 2006, but equally refined, with filigree tannins, red fruits’ sweetness, some clove spice and a bright, tapering finish. A wine that ages effortlessly. Drink: 2014-20 Page 22 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 95 2008 Bressia Profundo 14%, Luján de Cuyo The two bottles of the 2009 Profundo that I tasted in Argentina showed a little cork taint, so I sampled the 2008 back in London. This profound blend of Malbec with 30% Cabernet and 10% each of Merlot and Syrah does what it says on the label. It’s still quite young, with lots of oak and structure, but it will develop in bottle. Pure, silky and well balanced, with a volatile lift, sweet plum, cherry and raspberry fruit, a touch of spice and a fresh, lingering finish. The 2009 will have to wait for my next visit. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Casarena Lauren’s Vineyard Malbec 14.9%, Agrelo The sort of wine that you could sniff for hours on end, this Agrelo Malbec smells of ginger, vanilla and baking spices. On the palate, it’s silky and well balanced with oak adding a delicious backdrop. Bramble fruit, silky tannins and a savoury tang all give this wine complexity. I look forward to future releases from this very impressive winery. Drink: 2014-19 2012 Mariano di Paola Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza One of four wines that appear under Mariano di Paola’s own label. I haven’t tasted the others, but if they are as good as this, I suggest you rush to get hold of them. Focused and perfumed, this is a classic Altamira style with notes of rose petal and violet, orange zest and plush red and black fruits. Long and satisfying, it’s a delicious Malbec. Drink: 2015-20 2010 Mater Vini Alteza Malbec 14%, Argentina Santiago Achaval, who makes this wine with the Italian oenologist, Roberto Cipresso, calls this a “mad wine”, as it’s an equal blend of Malbecs from Salta and La Consulta, with the former portion fermenting in a refrigerated truck as it head south to Mendoza. The result combines the wildness of Salta with the freshness of La Consulta and it’s delicious. Complex and mineral with attractive oak and polished tannins. An auspicious first release. Drink: 2014-20 2011 Mendel Unus 14.5%, Mendoza This is slightly superior to the 2010 Unus in my view, both of which are on the market at the moment, and so reviewed here. A blend of Malbec with 25% Cabernet and 10% Petit Verdot, it’s a dense, focused wines that needs time in bottle. Sweet oak, good structure, ginger spice, fresh acidity and a peppery flourish from the cooler climate Malbec make this an outstanding red blend. Drink: 2016-22 2011 Noemía Malbec 14%, Río Negro The top wine from this outstanding Río Negro winery comes from a gnarled, ungrafted 1.5 hectare vineyard planted in 1932. It’s still youthful, but already a very impressive wine that numbers among the best the winery has released. The combination of subtle oak, fine tannins, partial whole bunch fermentation and old vine concentration is very appealing, as are the flavours of orange peel, red and black fruits and subtle cinnamon spice. Drink: 2015-20 Page 23 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 95 2008 Norton Gernot Langes 15.2%, Mendoza The icon red wine from Norton is produced in fairly small quantitites (5,000 bottles) and only in certain years: 2003, 2005, 2006 and 2008 to date. It’s a blend of Malbec with 20% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. And pretty impressive it is, too: ripe, smooth, plummy, chocolatey and sweetly oaked with fine-grained tannins and a fresh finish from the Cabernet Franc. Drink: 2015-22 2012 Per Se La Craie 14%, Gualtallary La Craie - French for chalk - gives you some clues about the dominant soil type in this part of Gualtallary. Cabernet Franc adds 30% to the blend here, producing a wine that is almost Cheval Blanc-like in its intensity and poise. Very fine and mineral, this combines notes of green pepper and graphite with a chalky, refreshing finish. In time, I think this producer will be regarded as one of the very best in Argentina. Drink: 2015-20 2011 Riglos Gran Corte 15%, Tupungato Riglos’ top wine combines Malbec with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc to impressive effect. It’s certainly more than the sum of its parts, although the Malbec comes from a different vineyard to the Gran Malbec. Textured, fine and well balanced, this has polished tannins, layers of complexity and the potential to age. Drink: 2015-20 2009 Trapiche Iscay 14.5%, Mendoza Iscay is Trapiche’s icon blend, made from a combination (this year) of Malbec with 30% Cabernet Franc, mixing fruit from Gualtallary and Maipú. Made with native yeasts and whole bunches for the Malbec, it’s poised and well balanced with plenty of colour, well integrated oak, some Asian spices and a seam of pepper freshness. Complex, concentrated and long, it’s another winner from Daniel Pi. Drink: 2015-22 2010 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Orellana de Escobar 15.5%, La Consulta One of three single-grower Malbecs released each year by Trapiche, this comes entirely from 60-year-old vines in La Consulta. Orellana de Escobar has been selected three times since the project began in 2003 and this is another very impressive bottling. Sweet, elegant and balanced with effortless old vines concentration and savoury tannins, it’s a brilliant wine that will age well for at least a decade. Drink: 2015-25 2010 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Suarez Lastra 15.5%, Altamira Made from younger vines than the Orellana de Escobar bottling (as you’d expect from a vineyard in Altamira) but this is no less exciting, if different in style. Floral and violetperfumed, this is a much more mineral wine with chalky acidity cleaning the palate. Fresh and nuanced with fine tannins and a brightness that belies its 15.5% alcohol, this is the latest in a series of very successful Trapiche releases. Drink: 2015-25 Page 24 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 95 94 2009 Viña Alicia Brote Negro Malbec 14%, Mendoza The vineyard that supplies the grapes for this wine is approximately 150 years old, producing some of the most venerable Malbecs in Mendoza. Made by Mauricio Lorca (who also has his own range of wines) it’s a stunning red. Serious, with lots of backbone, well integrated oak and flavours of plum and Asian spices. Drink: 2015-22 2010 Achaval Ferrer Temporis 14%, Mendoza Temporis is a blend of each of the three Achaval Ferrer fincas and is priced slightly above them for some reason. The three certainly work well together, although I don’t think this will make old bones, possibly because of the Finca Mirador component. Spicy, subtle aromas and flavours with an undertone of dill and a volatile lift. Complex stuff. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Reserve 14.5%, Uco Valley The 2012 release of this wine is bottled, but not yet on the market. It’s still a little closed, but it takes the minerality in the Reserve bottling to another level of intensity. Tangerine and Asian spices on the nose and palate, with well-integrated oak and a very chalky finish. Drink: 2015-19 2011 Altos Las Hormigas Single Vineyard Malbec 14.5%, Vistaflores This may not have the complexity of the 2012 (and you’ll have to wait for that to be released) but it’s not far behind and is an interesting case of a work in progress. Floral, red fruits, bright acidity and well integrated oak combine with firm, ageworthy tannins here, showing the power and structure of Vistaflores. Drink: 2014-20 2008 Andeluna Pasionado Cuatro Cepas 15%, Tupungato The four “cepas” in question are Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and they work very well together. This is green and herbal with marked pyrazine notes, but the freshness, drive and structure of the wine are impressive, as is the mid-palate sweetnees from Malbec. On past performance, this is a wine that ages well. Drink: 2014-19 2010 Bodega Aleanna El Gran Enemigo Cabernet Franc 13.2%, Gualtallary A wine that demonstrates the remarkable potential of Cabernet Franc in the upper reaches of the Uco Valley, picked at seven different harvest dates for varying levels of ripeness and flavour. Chalky, stony and very fine, this is like a mini Cheval Blanc with subtle, filigree tannins, some whole bunch spiciness and understated oak. Drink: 2014-20 2010 Bodega Aleanna El Gran Enemigo Single Vineyard 13%, Agrelo The wines that Alejandro Vigil makes under his own label are very different from those he makes at Catena Zapata: drier and more mineral in style. This varietal Cabernet Franc is spicy and very perfumed, with aromas of incense and black plums. The palate is fine and refreshing, the oak suitably restrained. Plusher than the Gualtallary release. Drink: 2014-20 Page 25 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 94 2010 Bressia Monteagrelo Cabernet Franc 14%, Vistaflores A varietal Cabernet Franc that demonstrates (yet again) the grape’s remarkable potential in Argentina. Sourced entirely from Vistaflores, it’s fresh, nuanced and grassy with impressive underlying concentration, sweet tannins, appealing use of oak and a chalky, minerally finish. 2014-20 2011 Bressia Monteagrelo Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza Walter Bressia uses fruit both from Agrelo and the Uco Valley here to give the wine more complexity and nuance. The result is a subtle, understated Malbec that seduces rather than confronts you. Balanced, spicy and marked by the presence of limestone, this is a wine that will age in bottle but is delicious to drink now, too. Drink: 2014-20 2010 Casarena Jamilla’s Vineyard Malbec 14.9%, Perdriel One of the big discoveries of my trip, Casarena’s single vineyard wines taste as good as they look. This has notes of orange peel and liquorice on the nose, which segue into leafy, refreshing flavours of spice, fruitcake and red fruits. Supple and subtle winemaking of the highest order from Bernardo Bossi. Drink: 2014-19 2011 Chacra Pinot Treinta y Dos Pinot Noir 13.7%, Río Negro The oldest vines at Chacra produce - surprise, surprise - the most profound of the trio of Pinot Noirs, with more depth, concentration and complexity. This spends 24 months in French oak, but it’s not obvious on the nose and palate. Sweet, nuanced and compelling with savoury, supple tannins, a herbal undertone and silky red fruits. One of South America’s best Pinot Noirs. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Colomé Auténtico Malbec 14.5%, Colomé Made for the first time in 2011, this is only produced with old vine fruit, grown at 2,300 metres, picked late and showing plenty of ripeness. It’s unoaked, as the wines were historically at Colomé, with flavours of plum and spice, a green herbal undertone and plenty of concentration. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Colomé Estate Malbec 14.5%, Colomé Winemaker Thibaut Delmotte blends Malbecs from different altitudes up to 2,600 metres for his estate Malbec. The new oak component is small at 10%, which allows the distinctive, high altitude fruit to express itself. Spicy, textured and aromatic, with a peppery bite, minerally acidity and sweet, savoury blackberry flavours, it has an element of Syrah about it. Drink: 2014-19 2012 Doña Paula 1100 14.1%, Altamira Another wine that’s new to the range at Doña Paula, this is an Altamira blend of Malbec with 30% Syrah and 10% Cabernet. It’s another high quality red, with Syrah adding acidity and a spicy note to the cassis and blackberry fruit of the other two varieties. Balanced, complex and underpinned by minerality, this is a very modern style. Drink: 2015-20 Page 26 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 94 2012 El Porvenir de Cafayate Laborum Malbec, Finca Río Seco 14.5%, Cafayate Winemaker Mariano Quiroga has really improved the quality of this estate’s reds since he joined in 2011, picking earlier to keep more freshness in the wines. This has flavours of black cherry, Asian spices and tangerine, with plenty of oak but more than enough weight for balance. An estate to watch in Cafayate. Drink: 2014-19 2010 Fabre Montmayou Grand Vin 14.5%, Vistalba A wine that is consistently among the best blends in Argentina, this is based on a vineyard that was planted in 1908. The old vine Malbec is blended with 10% Cabernet and 5% Merlot and it’s a delicious assemblage. Polished, structured and built to last, it’s fresh and well defined with sweetness supported by a backbone of tannin and acidity. Drink: 2015-20 2009 Luigi Bosca Icono 14%, Mendoza An ambitiously-priced blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon that delivers in the bottle. It’s less alcoholic than many icon wines, but it’s certainly not short of flavour. Balanced and poised, with a subtle interplay between the two varieties, nuanced tannins and a long, satisfying finish, this is a classy red. Drink: 2014-20 2011 Mendel Finca Remota Malbec 14.4%, Altamira The grapes for this impressive Malbec all come from a 65-year-od parcel in Altamira. The result is suitably fresh, aromatic and vibrant, with a delicious interplay between fruit, oak and acidity, a very mineral finish and effortless balance. The 2010 and 2012 releases are equally good. Drink: 2014-20 2010 Mendel Unus 14.5%, Mendoza The Malbec in this vintage of Unus is combined with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. Another wine that needs time, it’s a little lighter than the 2011 with more acidity and floral perfume. That’s not to say that it lacks intensity, however, as this is minerally, fresh and well balanced with oak woven into the wine and a long, satisfying finish. Drink: 2015-20 2012 Noemía J Alberto Malbec 13.5%, Río Negro Hans Vinding-Diers blend of Malbec with 5% Merlot comes from ungrafted vines planted in 1955. Unfined and unfiltered, it’s a scented, sensuous, appealing wine with clove and violets on the nose. The palate is elegant and refined, with subtle oak (only second fill used here, along with 15% concrete eggs) and a lift of refreshing acidity. The restrained alcohol contributes to the success of the wine. Drink: 2014-20 2009 Norton Lote A109 Malbec 14.9%, Agrelo A is for Agrelo in this instance. This comes from the oldest vines among the three “lote” wines and it’s also the most exciting. Very perfumed and attractive with notes of wild herbs, medium weight tannins, deftly handled oak and a pure, elegant finish. Drink: 2014-19 Page 27 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 94 2007 O Fournier A Crux Blend 15%, Uco Valley The 2006 A Crux Blend is also on the market, but this is a much better wine, blending Tempranillo with 35% Malbec and 15% Cabernet. Fresher and better balanced than its richer predecessors, it’s got a touch of whole bunch spiciness, bright acidity and a mix of cherry, raspberry and blackberry fruit, alongside notes of dried herbs and sweet vanilla oak. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Per Se Iubileus Malbec 14.5%, Gualtallary Per Se is a new, personal project from Edy del Popolo (of Dominio del Plata) and what a debut it is. This high altitude Malbec has 5% Cabernet Franc for added perfume and freshness. It’s a very fine wine indeed: mineral and sappy with a chalky undertone and beautifully delineated fruit flavours. The oak is stylishy integrated, the wine long on the palate. Drink: 2014-19 2008 Piedra Negra Chacayes 15.1%, Uco Valley François Lurton’s top red wine is built to age and does so with considerable grace and charm. It combines Malbec with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, showcasing all that is best about the Uco Valley, filtered through French know how and flair. Finely balanced, complex and nuanced with savoury tannins, subtle oak, hints of fresh tobacco and red fruits and a long, tapering finish. Impressively judged. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Pulenta Estate Gran Cabernet Franc 14.5%, Agrelo One of my favourite South American reds (and one that ages well, too) this is essence of Cabernet Franc, showing flavours of green pepper, graphite and sweet fruit backed up by supple, grassy tannins and a touch of spice. As ever, the oak is deftly handled at Pulenta. Drink: 2014-18 2009 Pulenta Estate Gran Corte 14.5%, Mendoza There’s no Cabernet Franc in this blend, unlike the 2008 Gran Corte. Instead, it’s made up of mostly Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with a little Petit Verdot and Tannat for good measure. Showing aromas of rosemary and thyme, it’s almost Mediterranean in style. Ripe and sweet, with good structure and acidity, this always ages well. Drink: 2014-20 2011 Recuerdo Gran Corte 14.7%, Uco Valley This winery is part of the Vines of Mendoza project, where the wines are made at a central winery with the consultancy of Santiago Achaval. It’s a Malbec-based blend with lesser amounts of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. It’s very much a Vistaflores style, combining perfume with fruit weight and concentration, but there’s spiciness, freshness and appealing oak adding to the layers of flavours, too. Drink: 2014-19 Page 28 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 94 2010 Rutini Apartado Gran Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley A Gran Malbec it is indeed, using fruit from Tupungato, La Consulta and Altamira to impressive effect. As ever with Mariano di Paola’s top reds, there’s a lovely interplay between texture, sweetness, oak and acidity. Complex and spicy with fine tannins and crunchy black fruit. Drink: 2014-19 2010 Rutini Encuentro Barrel Blend 14.5%, Mendoza This stylish, 100% new oak-aged blend of mostly Cabernet and Malbec with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in supporting roles is built to last. It’s a little oak-dominated at the moment, but the underlying fruit is superb, with the freshness and graphite-like notes of Cabernet Sauvignon to the fore. Balanced, minerally and poised, this is a blend that is greater than the sum of its parts. Drink: 2016-22 2011 Salentein Numina Gran Corte, Spirit Vineyard 14.5%, Uco Valley The blend from this atmospherically-named vineyard is Malbec with 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc and it’s a winner. Dense, deeply coloured, yet nuanced on the nose and palate, it’s smooth and silky, with notes of mint, green pepper, violets and sweet vanilla oak. Savoury and very long. Drink: 2015-22 2011 Salentein Primus Pinot Noir 14%, Uco Valley The grapes for Salentein’s top Pinot Noir come from a variety of sources and altitudes between 1,300 and 1,500m. There’s greater clonal diversity too, with 667, 777, 103, 115 and R4 all contributing to the blend. The result is very classy indeed, all velvet and red fruits, with deftly handled oak and a minerality that is rare in Argentinean Pinot. Drink: 2014-19 2011 Salentein Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Plot No. 1 14%, Uco Valley Pinot Noir does best in cooler climates, and this is among the freshest in the Uco Valley, situated at 1,400 metres. Made with the R4 clone and benefiting from 15 days of cold maceration, it’s aromatic and pure, with notes of wild strawberry and pomegranate and good texture and weight. The oak is subtle, the finish crisp and refreshing. Drink: 2014-19 2013 Zorzal Eggo Pinot Noir 14.5%, Tupungato No oak, 100% carbonic maceration and (as the name suggests) fermentation in concrete eggs, this is one of the top Pinots in the country. Perfumed, fresh and nuanced with hints of pomegranate and red cherry, it’s driven by acidity and minerality, not oak or over-ripeness. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Zuccardi Tito 14%, Uco Valley This blend of 70% Malbec with smaller amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Caladoc and Ancelotta is a step up from the excellent 2011. Intense and appealingly herbal (from 30% whole bunch fermentation), it’s vibrant and aromatic with chalky minerality and a long, tapering finish. Drink: 2015-25 Page 29 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 93 2011 Alta Vista Alizarine Single Vineyard Malbec 15%, Luján de Cuyo The best of Alta Vista’s single vineyard wines comes from a well-drained vineyard planted in Las Compuertas in 1929. It’s much fresher than its stablemates, with sappy fruit flavours, tangy acidity, subtle oak and a core of sweetness. This is often the base of Alto, the winery’s icon wine, and you can see why. Drink: 2014-20 2011 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Reserve 14.5%, Uco Valley There was no Reserve Malbec in 2010, but this release more than makes up for the absence, as the wine is back with a bang, with toned down oak and the same fruit definition. It’s yet another outstanding Malbec from this Chilean/Italian team. Classy winemaking. Drink: 2014-19 2009 Andeluna Pasionado Cabernet Franc 15.2%, Tupungato This is not a shy and retiring Cabernet Franc (and it undergoes reverse osmosis to get it down from 16% alcohol) but it’s a fantastic expression of the grape, with plush chocolate and green pepper flavours, fine tannins and a fresh, minerally burst of acidity on the finish. The 2009 and 2010 (tasted at the winery, but not released yet) are great, too. Drink: 2014-19 2009 Bodega Aleanna El Gran Enemigo 14.5%, Gualtallary Another impressive, Argentina-meets-Bordeaux-style blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 10% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot from cool climate Gualtallary. Deeply coloured, very aromatic and silky with subtle oak, fresh acidity and classic green pepper Cabernet Franc notes. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Catena Zapata Argentino Malbec 14%, Uco Valley Combining fruit from two of the best Uco Valley sub-regions (Altamira and Gualtallary) this is a rich, ripe, even heady style of Malbec with lots of new French oak but plenty of fruit to soak it up. Spicy and soft with rich, liquorice and blackberry flavours and smooth tannins. Drink: 2014-18 2012 Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard Malbec 14%, La Consulta This single vineyard Malbec hails entirely from Altamira and it’s typical of the Catena style, albeit with the addition of 3% Viognier for extra perfume. Vibrant, juicy and plush with lots of sweet new oak, but showing enough acidity and freshness for balance, it has the structure and tannins to develop further in bottle. Drink: 2014-20 2012 Chacra Cincuenta y Cinco Pinot Noir 12.9%, Río Negro The name of the wine refers to the year the vines were planted (1955, for non Spanish speakers). There’s also 2% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, which adds a green pepper undertone. But it’s the quality of the Pinot that shines through, along with the restrained alcohol and refined, herbal flavours. A wine that grows and develops in the glass. Drink: 2014-18 Page 30 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 93 2008 Cheval des Andes 14%, Mendoza 2008 was a cooler vintage than 2009, which may be why I prefer the Cheval des Andes from the former year. It’s a blend of mostly Malbec with 35% Cabernet and a touch of Merlot and Petit Verdot. It’s intense and typically compact and well structured, showing more freshness than the chewier, more extracted 2009. Cheval typically needs time, so be prepared to wait for this to develop in bottle. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Cuvelier de Los Andes Colección 14.5%, Uco Valley I often find the Cuvelier de los Andes wines to be the most European of those produced at Clos de los Siete. This blend of Malbec with Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot is supple and spicy, with savoury, dried herbs notes, elegant oak integration and a mineral finish. No one seems to be trying too hard to make a statement wine here. Drink: 2014-19 2009 DiamAndes de Uco Gran Reserva 14.5%, Uco Valley Made by Fecundo Pereira before he left in 2010, this blend of Malbec with 30% Cabernet is still very much alive, which is not something that can be said of some Argentinean reds of this age. It’s a big, bold, oaky wine, but the tannins are velvety and fine, the fruit ripe rather than pruney, the acidity fresh and bright. Impressive winemaking. Drink: 2014-17 2010 Dominio del Plata Nosotros Malbec 14.5%, Agrelo A wine that has improved (at least to my taste) since 2010, showing much defter use of oak and less extraction and over-ripeness, this is appealingly aromatic and stylish with lovely use of oak, plush flavours of chocolate and fig and a tangy, refreshing finish. Drink: 2015-19 2011 Fabre Montmayou Grande Réserve Cabernet Sauvignon 14.8%, Mendoza Hervé Joyaux’s Bordeaux background is apparent in this wine because it’s one of the best Cabernet Sauvignons in Argentina. Sourced from Perdriel and Agrelo, it’s a classy, polished Cab, with fine-grained tannins, ripe cassis fruit and bright, tangy acidity. It ages well, too. Drink: 2014-19 2009 Finca El Origen Phi Single Vineyard 15%, Vistaflores Produced in Argentina by Chilean winery, Santa Carolina, this is the first release of a high quality Uco Valley blend of mostly Malbec with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in supporting roles. It’s a very impressive, densely concentrated wine with stylish vanilla and mocha oak, ripe, textured tannins and powerful, aromatic black fruits. Drink: 2015-20 2008 Kaikén Mai Malbec 15%, Mendoza This is the third vintage of Chilean winemaker Aurelio Montes’ icon Malbec and it’s the best yet. Sourced from a range of sites in Agrelo, Vistalba and the Uco Valley this is an impressive red, offering the concentration of vineyards close to Mendoza with the freshness and perfume of higher altitude fruit. Richy oaked, but with more than enough black fruits and savoury tannins for balance, it should age well, too. Drink: 2014-19 Page 31 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 93 2009 Lagarde Henry Gran Guarda No. 1 14%, Mendoza An impressive blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Syrah from a winery that is in an impressive run of form at the moment. It’s a ripe, oaky, but well-balanced style, trading fruit concentration and acidity. There’s enough weight and backbone here to see the wine through at least another five years in bottle. Drink: 2014-20 2011 Lagarde Primeras Viñas Malbec 14%, Luján de Cuyo Based for the most part on a parcel that was planted in 1906, this has remarkable finesse and fruit purity, especially given the low yields in the vineyard. Deeply coloured, textured and sweet with quite a bit of oak, but plenty of tannin, concentration and acidity for support. Another wine that will reward cellaring. Drink: 2014-19 2010 Lariviere Yturbe Partida Limitada Malbec 14.7 %, Luján de Cuyo Lariviere Yturbe is a Franco-Argentinean winery based in Luján de Cuyo. It’s tempting to see a French influence in the winemaking, too. This is certainly very floral and harmonious with violets and red fruits on the nose and palate. Complete and well balanced with a fresh finish. Drink: 2014-19 2011 Mariflor Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley Made for the first time in 2009, the third vintage of Michel Rolland’s own wine at Clos de los Siete is very impressive. It’s dense, rich and profoundly perfumed with masses of concentration and compact flavours. But the thickness of the wine is balanced by well-judged oak and refreshing acidity. Ripe, but not over-ripe, this should age well. Drink: 2015-20 2011 Michelini Brothers Super Uco 14.3%, Gualtallary There are four Michelini Brothers in all and they all seem to be involved in making this wine. In the future, they will make one wine from each of the three sub-regions of the Uco Valley, but this is from Gualtallary alone. A co-fermented Malbec and Cabernet Franc, made in a chalky, refreshing style with medium weight tannins, black fruits and much more oak than one is used to from the Michelinis. But it works! Drink: 2015-20 2011 Montechez Edición Limitada Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza This the top Malbec from this comparatively new bodega, established in 2005. It’s a very serious, compact Malbec that is made to age in bottle, rather than for immediate pleasure. The tannins are present, but harmonious, balanced by dense, plummy fruit and a lift of minerality on the finish. Another winery to keep an eye on. Drink: 2014-19 Page 32 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 93 2010 Noemía 2 12.5%, Río Negro Produced for the first time in 2007, and not made again until 2010, this is Hans VindingDiers’ homage to Bordeaux, where he grew up, with mostly Cabernet Sauvignon supported by 8% Merlot, 2% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot. The vines are old (from the 1940s and 1955) and the wine is suitably ageworthy. It’s a classy, polished, Médoc-meets-Patagonia style with flavours of mint, cassis and dried herbs and fine, graphite-infused tannins. Its finish is long and refreshing. Drink: 2014-20 2010 Norton Privada Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza Blended across Mendoza, but focusing on vineyards in the various sub-regions of Luján de Cuyo, this is the third release of a Privada Malbec. It’s rich, sweet and ambitiously oaked with ageworthy tannins and plush underlying fruit. This needs time to settle into itself. Drink: 2015-19 2011 Ojo de Vino Malo 15.3%, Agrelo How can you fail to respond to a wine with such an evocative name? But there’s nothing bad about Swiss artist Dieter Meier’s red blend, made with the help of star oenologist, Marcelo Pelleriti. It’s a rich aromatic blast of a wine with notes of liquorice and Asian spices, velvety tannins, stylish oak integration and a ripe, palate-warming finish. Drink: 2014-18 2008 Piedra Negra Malbec Reserva 13.9%, Mendoza François Lurton isn’t as flamboyant as some of his colleagues, but this focused Frenchman makes exceptional wines in Argentina. This is a blend of grapes from mostly Vistaflores with 10% from Santa Rosa in the east. Very mineral, with good structure, succulent red and black fruits, some violets and a long finish. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Pulenta Estate Gran Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza Combining fruit from Agrelo (60%) and the Uco Valley (40%) this is serious stuff, with effortless concentration supported by 100% new oak. Sweet and brambly with subtle oak integration and a fresh, sappy, lively finish from the higher altitude grapes. Very drinkable. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Riglos Gran Cabernet Franc 15%, Tupungato Often my favourite of the single varietal wines from Riglos (as opposed to the Gran Corte) this is only the second release of Cabernet Franc. It’s as good as ever here, with very deep colour, ripe, balanced, green pepper, liquorice and fresh tea flavours, bright acidity and succulent tannins. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Riglos Gran Cabernet Sauvignon 15%, Tupungato This is both a good expression of the variety and of the place in which it is grown. It’s sappy and medium weight, despite the 15% alcohol, with cassis and dried herb flavours, attractive oak and a fine, nuanced finish. Drink: 2015-19 Page 33 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 93 2010 Rutini Antología Pinot Noir XXXVI 14.3%, Mendoza This is the top Pinot from Rutini, released for the first time in 2010 and given the full, 100% new oak treatment. It’s a definite step up from the bodega’s more commercial release with more concentration, some subtle spice from whole bunch fermentation and refreshing acidity. Among the best Pinots in the country - and at the first attempt. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Salentein Numina Cabernet Franc 14.5%, Uco Valley Put the higher reaches of the Uco Valley together with Cabernet Franc and you have a winning formula. This is typically leafy and fine with tangy acidity and notes of fresh green herbs. Texture and subtle oak integration are a hallmark of Pepe Galante’s wines. Drink: 2014-19 2011 San Pedro de Yacochuya 15.4%, Cafayate The second wine from this famous estate is made with “younger” vines than the grand vin (they are 50 years old). It’s released earlier and has less oak as a rule, expressing the flavours of Malbec and the 15% Cabernet that completes the blend. It’s pretty ripe, but balanced with notes of Asian spices and green herbs. Drink: 2014-18 2009 Terrazas de los Andes Single Parcel Los Castaños Malbec 14.5%, Altamira Terrazas’ vineyard source is located in Altamira, next to Achaval Ferrer. Planted in 1945, it’s another impressive vineyard, with stony soils and some limestone. Firm and even a little austere, this is a dense, aromatic, ambitiously oaked red with the concentration and structure to age. Drink: 2015-20 2009 Terrazas de los Andes Single Parcel Los Cerezos Malbec 15%, Las Compuertas You can’t accuse the team at Terrazas of not focusing on the long term in their winemaking. This Single Parcel release from 80-year-old vines is oaky and quite firm at the moment, but has the underlying texture and fruit concentration to reward patience. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Terrazas de los Andes Single Vineyard Los Aromos Cabernet Sauvignon 14.5%, Perdriel Another example of top notch, French-influenced winemaking from Terrazas’ Nicolas Audebert. It’s a Bordeaux-meets-Argentina style with appealing fruit sweetness supported by firm tannins, deftly handled oak integration and fresh acidity. Drink: 2014-18 2007 Viña Alicia Cuarzo 14%, Lunlunta An unusual blend of mostly Petit Verdot with 2.5% each of Grenache and Carignan, all grown in Lunlunta, this Bordeaux meets the Rhône Valley style is intriguing. It’s very floral and perfumed, but dense and ageworthy on the palate with sweet oak and blueberry and raspberry fruit. The wine glides across the palate. Drink: 2014-20 Page 34 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 93 2007 Viña Alicia Morena 13.8%, Luján de Cuyo Combining Cabernet Sauvignon with 12% Cabernet Franc, this wouldn’t look out of place in the Médoc. Subtle oak, some dried herbs and fresh mint on the nose, elegant tannins, dark plum and damson fruit and a long, tapering finish. Drink: 2014-20 2007 Viña Alicia Nebbiolo 15%, Luján de Cuyo The best Nebbiolo in Argentina (and by some distance), Viña Alicia’s red is a blend of three different clones. It’s very true to the variety, with rose petal aromas, flavours of wild herbs and spices and firmish, tealeafy tannins offset by sweet French oak. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Viña Cobos Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Malbec 14.7%, Perdriel Sourced from the Marchiori family’s own vineyards close to the winery in Perdriel, this is like a mini Cobos in many ways. It’s a profound, super-concentrated Malbec, with plenty of oak and intense, chocolatey tannins and plummy fruit sweetness. Slightly pruney, but still very impressive. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Viña Cobos Bramare Rebon Vineyard Malbec 14.9%, La Consulta Thick, rich and flavoursome, this Uco Valley Malbec from 20-year-old vines in La Consulta wears its heart and flavours on its sleeve. The oak is subtly integrated here, adding a sheen of vanilla to the notes of violet and bramble. It’s high-octane stuff, but with good balancing acidity. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Viña Cobos Volturno Marchiori Vineyard 14.9%, Mendoza A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with 19% Malbec, this has changed its varietal make up (and name) over the years. It’s a very ripe, almost Amarone style, showing a little bit of residual sugar and marked alcohol on the nose and palate. Thick and super ripe, it’s the sort of wine that’s impressive rather than a pleasure to drink. Drink: 2014-16 2011 Viña Vida Malbec Gran Reserva 15%, Uco Valley From a comparatively new operation in the heart of the Uco Valley, with an unusual approach to growing grapes in a circular vineyard layout, this is a rich yet well balanced style of Malbec. Deeply coloured, supple and stylishly oaked, this has enough acidity to balance the 15% alcohol. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Viña Vida Petit Verdot Gran Reserva 14.4%, Uco Valley Varietal Petit Verdots are still comparatively rare in Argentina, but the best of them (and this is one) are very promising indeed. It’s herbal and aromatic, with notes of Asian spices and blackberry, good freshness, subtle oak and filigree tannins. A winery to keep an eye on. Drink: 2014-19 Page 35 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 93 2011 Vinorum Victorio Altieri Gran Reserva Malbec 14%, Luján de Cuyo There’s actually 14% Cabernet in this Luján de Cuyo Malbec from a boutique winery that deserves to be better known. Herbal, savoury and refreshing, this is a wine with subtlety, line and length. Refined oak, polished tannins and a finish that lingers on the palate. I’m very keen to taste more wines from this bodega. Drink: 2014-19 2012 Zorzal Gran Terroir Pinot Noir 14%, Tupungato Made by Jaun Pablo Michelini, this sticks to the brothers’ “less is more” philosophy, despite being aged in 30% new oak. It speaks of its place (the high Uco Valley), showing freshness and balance. Subtle and light, it’s an Argentinean homage to Volnay or Chambolle-Musigny. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Zorzal Piantao 14.5%, Tupungato I can’t see what crazy (“piantao”) about this blend of mostly Cabernet Franc with Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, but who cares? It’s a fresh, minerally wine with marked chalkiness, supple tannins, understated oak and effortless balance. Drink: 2014-18 2012 Zuccardi Emma Zuccardi Bonarda 13.5%, Mendoza Bonarda is rarely treated as a serious, high quality grape in Argentina, but this one, combining the richness of Santa Rosa and the cool, aromatic elegance of the Uco Valley, is an ambitious wine. Focused, minerally and rich, with notes of plum and dried herbs and sweet oak. Drink: 2014-20 2011 Zuccardi Finca Los Membrillos 14.5%, La Consulta Sourced from four different soil types in La Consulta (each vinified separately), this varietal Cabernet is one of the best in Argentina. Aromatic, structured and appealingly ripe, this has fine-grained tannins and plush flavours of black fruits underpinned by acidity. Drink: 2014-22 2011 Zuccardi Tito 14%, Uco Valley The blend of Tito changes every year. In 2011, it was a co-fermentation of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a little Anchelotta for added interest. Pepper spice, a hint of chalky minerality and flavours of blackcurrant and blueberry, with a sappy undertone from whole bunches. Drink: 2014-22 92 2011 Achaval Ferrer Finca Mirador Malbec 14%, Medrano On paper, this is the least distinguished of Achaval Ferrer’s three single vineyard sites (being based in warmer Medrano). It doesn’t always age as well as the other two, but is still very appealing in its youth. Subtle and almost Burgundian, with sweet and savoury flavours, understated oak and a soft, fruitcake-like undertone. Drink: 2014-17 Page 36 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 92 2012 Achaval Ferrer Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza Achaval’s “entry point” Malbec is never that far behind the single vineyards in quality, which is not to take anything away from Fincas Altamira and Bella Vista. Combining fruit from all over Mendoza, it’s all about fruit, rather than oak. Beautifully aromatic, youthful and intense, it’s one of the best value Malbecs in Argentina. Drink: 2014-17 2010 Alta Vista Alto 15%, Mendoza The 2010 Alto is a blend of 75% Malbec and 25% Cabernet and it’s an improvement on the slightly heavier-boned 2009. It’s an ambitious wine, picked late and given the full oak treatment. The result is impressive enough but that lacks a little freshness and joie de vivre. But give it time for its tannins to soften in bottle. Drink: 2015-19 2011 Alta Vista Serenade Single Vineyard Malbec 15%, Luján de Cuyo The fruit for this Malbec comes from Luján (the vineyard is next to Cobos, no less) and is suitably plush and textured. Plums, violet, sweet oak and some strawberry syrup are all appealingly blended here. The alcohol is high but works in the context of the wine. Drink: 2014-19 2011 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Terroir 14.5%, Uco Valley A big step up from the “classic” Malbec, this represents a quantum leap in quality from 2011, with evident freshness and finer fruit flavours. Very aromatic yet winningly understated at the same time, it’s one of the best commercial Malbecs on the market, made in a new and welcome style. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Amalaya Gran Corte 14%, Cafayate The Gran Corte is picked almost three weeks later than the same winery’s Tinto de Corte, with the grapes drawn from higher altitudes, too. The blend here is Malbec with 7.5% each of Tannat and Cabernet Franc. Made with natural acidity and aged in 30% new oak, it’s spicy and herbal with good extract, concentration and length. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Belasco de Baquedano Swinto Malbec 15.5%, Luján de Cuyo Yes, this is a bold, strapping Malbec that flirts with over-ripeness (at least for me) but it’s still in balance. Aromatic, plush and palate warming, this is complex, rich and flavoursome with plenty of black fruits surrounded and supported by oak sweetness. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Bodega El Esteco Altimus 15%, Cafayate The top wine from this impressive Cafayate operation is a Malbec-based blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and the local speciality, Tannat, for support. It’s an ambitious, structured, ageworthy wine with lots of colour and oak, a touch of leafiness from the Cabernets, a herbal undertone and a long, refreshing finish. Drink: 2014-20 Page 37 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 92 2012 Bodega El Esteco Don David Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 14%, Cafayate I’m not normally a fan of American oak on Cabernet (although it’s combined with 50% French oak) but the winemaking and the age of the barrels have resulted in a delicious wine here. There are notes of chocolate, cassis and green pepper, with a touch of spice and a fresh, tangy finish. One of my favourite Cafayate reds. 2011 Casarena Lauren’s Vineyard Cabernet Franc 14.7%, Agrelo Another wine to add to the list of delicious Argentinean Cabernet Francs, this is very true to the varietal: green pepper, some graphite and smooth tannins, with refreshing acidity on the back palate. Like all Casarena’s top wines, this is supremely drinkable and appealing. Drink: 2014-17 2010 Cavas La Capilla Templum Gran Reserva Malbec 14%, Altamira Floral, elegant and appealing, this Uco Valley Malbec is very much part of the new wave, with well-integrated oak, ripe (rather than over-ripe) fruit, fresh minerality and a balanced, defined finish. A green, herbal undertone adds complexity on the palate. Drink: 2014-18 2012 Chacra Barda Pinot Noir 13.3%, Patagonia The cheapest wine from this vaunted Río Negro property is often the best value of the three releases. And that’s the case here. Very pale and hauntingly aromatic, with balsamic, red fruits aromas and flavours, a dab of oak, filigree tannins and a subtle, faintly gamey finish. Drink: 2014-16 2012 Chakana Estate Ayni Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley Selected from the bodega’s best Malbec vineyards, this is a relatively restrained style from Chakana. Smooth and polished with good black-fruited concentration, fine tannins and a fresh, elegant finish. The sort of wine that’s easy to drink by the bottle, not just the glass. Drink: 2014-18 2012 Chakana Estate Selection Red Blend 14.5%, Mendoza Too often in Argentina, a heavy bottle signifies an over-oaked, overblown wine, but that’s not the case with this blend of Malbec with 20% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Plum, bramble and damson fruit are nicely intertwined here, with smooth tannins and deftly handled oak. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Clos de los Siete 14.5%, Uco Valley Clos de los Siete has done an enormous amount to promote the Uco Valley on overseas markets. Michel Rolland’s good value blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah and Petit Verdot is one of the best he’s made. Sweet and perfumed with well integrated oak, bright acidity and subtle interplay between the five grape varieties. Drink: 2014-17 Page 38 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 92 2011 DiamAndes Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley Deeply coloured, super concentrated Malbec at the plusher end of the spectrum. The wine flirts with over-ripeness, but it’s got good energy and acidity beneath the slightly jammy flavours. A thick, dense, powerful red with lots of oak, substantial tannins and bags of flavour to match. I slightly prefer this to the 2011, which is also on the market. Drink: 2014-19 2011 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Grande Reserve 15.7%, Tupungato A bold, sumptuously-oaked Malbec with bags of ripe plum, blackberry and bramble fruit, sweet, succulent tannins and quite a bit of alcohol. What elevates the wine above many similarly concentrated styles of Malbec is its minerality, which gives the wine length and balance. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Brioso 14.3%, Mendoza A Bordeaux style blend dominated by Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec, this has welcome freshness and brightness of flavour underpinning the sweet fruit. Co-fermentation with a little Viognier adds another dimension to the wine. Mint and fresh herbs on the palate with bright acidity. Drink: 2014-18 2012 Doña Paula Estate Black Edition 14.1%, Luján de Cuyo Black Edition is the first release of a new blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot from Luján de Cuyo. It’s a very attractive trio, favouring elegance and freshness on the nose and palate, with red as well as black fruits, filigree tannins and sensitively used oak. Drink: 2014-19 2012 Doña Paula Estate Malbec 14%, Uco Valley The team at Doña Paula blends Malbecs from two Uco Valley sources - Gualtallary and Altamira - to make this reliable estate red. It’s aromatic and well balanced, with very subtle oak handling, flavours of blackberry and blackcurrant, fine tannins and fresh, chalky finish. Drink: 2014-18 2012 El Porvenir de Cafayate Amauta 14.5%, Cafayate A blend of Malbec with 30% Cabernet and 10% Syrah, this is less oaky than it has been in the past and much more balanced as a result. Aromatic and savoury, with a spiciness that’s typical of Cafayate, bright acidity and polished, fine-grained tannins. Drink: 2014-19 2011 Fabre Montmayou Grande Réserve Malbec 15%, Mendoza Sourced from Luján de Cuyo (the vineyard is close to the Mendoza River) and partly made with vines that were planted between 1908 and 1915, this is a classic Malbec from the warmer zone near Mendoza. Floral, sweet and concentrated with ripe, figgy fruit flavours and real intensity. Drink: 2014-19 Page 39 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 92 2011 Fabre Montmayou Grande Réserve Merlot 15%, Río Negro The source of this Merlot is Patagonia rather than Mendoza and it shows the freshness of its southerly latitude, despite the high alcohol. Subtle and nuanced, it’s silky and smooth with good length, some mint and dried herbs and a core of fruit sweetness. Drink: 2014-16 2011 Finca Decero A Mano Remolinos Vineyard 14.5%, Agrelo A stylish blend of mostly Malbec with 30% Cabernet, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Tannat, this is a very harmonious red, showing aromatic red fruits, silky tannins and deftly integrated oak. The comparatively high altitude of the vineyards (for Agrelo) confers welcome freshness here. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Finca Decero Malbec Remolinos Vineyard 14.5%, Agrelo The name Decero (from scratch) gives you some idea of how young this estate in Agrelo is, having made its first wines in 2006. This wine is typical of the house style: floral, yet restrained with understated oak, supple tannins and fine raspberry fruit, finishing with a fresh flourish. Drink: 2014-19 2010 Finca La Luz Callejón del Crimen Gran Reserva 14%, Uco Valley A stylish Uco Valley blend of Malbec with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot, this has the perfume, high altitude aromas and flavours that distinguish the region at its best. Fresh and perfumed, with well-integrated oak, good minerality and an appealing, volatile lift. Balanced and long on the palate. Drink: 2014-18 2009 Gauchezco Oro Malbec 14.2%, Mendoza This is the flagship wine from this Barrancas-based operation. It’s a bold statement of a red, with plenty of oak and concentration and flavours of vanilla, plum and prune balanced by good freshness and zip. Complex, smoky and long, this is a wine to enjoy now. Drink: 2014-17 2010 Hand of God, Sobremesa Vineyard 14.5%, Uco Valley Made at Achaval Ferrer for owner Jon Steinberg, this is a wine that’s more likely to sell well in Scotland than England, given its name. It’s a blend of Malbec with 35% Syrah and 10% Petit Verdot. It’s grainy and compact with sweet oak, refreshing acidity and impressive complexity. Drink: 2014-18 2011 La Giostra del Vino Bacán Malbec Reserva 14.5%, Agrelo Giuseppe Franceschini only released his first wines in 2007, but his reds and whites are among my most exciting new discoveries this year. This is a very expressive wine, showing excellent oak integration, floral aromas, plenty of weight on the palate, plush tannins and a chalky freshness that lingers on the palate. Nuanced winemaking. Drink: 2014-19 Page 40 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 92 2011 La Revancha, La Gran Revancha 14.5%, Mendoza The third release of a joint venture between Roberto de la Mota of Mendel and his son, Rodrigo. This is a blend of Malbec, Cabernet, Petit Verdot and a little Cabernet Franc (although the idea is to increase that proportion in future). This shows appealing spice and orange peel aromas with focused tannins and a refreshing finish. Drink: 2014-19 2009 Lindaflor Malbec 16%, Uco Valley The alcohol may seem a little high to some (above most Fino Sherry) and there’s no denying that this is a very, very ripe style. But given that, it’s a well made wine with sweet tannins, plush, slightly figgy fruit and good concentration. I just wish it had a little more lift and minerality. Drink: 2014-16 2010 Luigi Bosca Finca Los Nobles Malbec 13%, Mendoza Sourced from a single vineyard in Las Compuertas (one of the best sub-zones of Luján de Cuyo), this is made from 80-year-old vines and it shows in the concentration and intensity of the fruit. The oak is a little heavy handed perhaps, but this is made to age: dense and compact. Drink: 2015-20 2011 Luigi Bosca Malbec 13%, Uco Valley A new wine from the Los Miradores Vineyard in Tupungato, this is made with Malbec from a single massal selection. It’s an intense wine with ambitious tannins and a corresponding amount of oak, but there’s plenty of ripe plum and blackberry fruit and a violet fragrance, too. Drink: 2014-19 2010 Manos Negras Red Soil Select Pinot Noir 13.9%, Neuquén The name tells you what you need to know about the iron-rich soils, but not about the corresponding structure of the wine. Dense and concentrated, this is like a mini-Pommard in some respects, with muscular tannins, a touch of reduction and rich, flavoursome fruit. A label to watch if you’re a Pinotphile. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Marcelo Pelleriti Malbec Reserva 14.5%, Uco Valley Marcelo Pelleriti makes wines under his own label as well as being in charge of Monteviejo. This blend of Malbec and 20% Cabernet Franc is fresher and better balanced than what he tends to produce at the latter winery. Aromatic and dense with old vine fruit providing concentration as well as balance, this has fine tannins and a long, tapering finish. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Masi Corbec 14.5%, Uco Valley Corbec, like the same winery’s Passo Doble, combines Malbec with much rarer Corvina, imported from northern Italy and planted by Masi. There are some dried grapes included here, Amarone style, giving the wine figgy concentration, but not too much alcohol. Supple, long and floral, it’s a well-balanced and appealingly unusual wine. Drink: 2014-18 Page 41 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 92 2010 Mendel Cabernet Sauvignon 14.5%, Mendoza Made using the French 337 clone from youngish vineyards in Perdriel, this demonstrates Roberto de la Mota’s skill with Cabernet, honed in France and at Terrazas de los Andes. Fine, elegant and well balanced, it’s fragrant and silky with notes of mint and blackcurrant leaf. The 2012 is worth waiting for, too. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Nieto Senetiner Cadus Single Vineyard Finca Las Tortugas Malbec 14.9%, Luján de Cuyo Nieto is one of the few wineries that takes Bonarda seriously as a grape with the potential to make high-end wines. But its best reds are, understandably, made from Malbec. This Agrelo example is rich, deeply coloured and concentrated. It’s a serious, ageworthy wine with lots of tannin and profound black fruits supported by acidity and oak. Drink: 2014-20 2009 Norton Lote L109 Malbec 14.8%, Mendoza The name isn’t the sexiest thing about this new series of “lote” wines from Norton. This one comes from old vines in Lunlunta and has bags of bramble fruit underpinned by oak, structure and some minerality. There’s an appealing core of fruit sweetness, too. Drink: 2015-20 2009 Norton Lote LC109 Malbec 14.9%, Luján de Cuyo This release comes from La Colonia in Alto Agrelo, from a vineyard planted in 1997. It’s more aromatic than the L109, but also showed a little reduction when I tasted it. Liquorice, sweet plums, good acidity and textured tannins are appealingly intermingled here. Drink: 2015-20 2011 Passionate Wine Demente 13.9%, Gualtallary Co-fermented Malbec and Cabernet Franc are the two varieties given the Michelini treatment here. There’s a green, almost grassy undertone to the wine, with no obvious oak, fine tannins and beautiful balance and length on the palate. Understated winemaking. Drink: 2014-18 2013 Passionate Wine Inéditos Bonarda 11%, Uco Valley A wine that dares to be different, this is Argentina’s answer to a good Beaujolais. Drink it well chilled on a summer evening in Buenos Aires or Mendoza and revel in its juicy, refreshing exuberance and modest alcohol levels. Bonarda as you’ve never tasted it before. Drink: 2014-16 2012 Passionate Wine Montesco Parral 14%, Tupungato As the label suggests, this comes from traditional, pergola-trained vineyards in Tupungato. It’s a blend of Malbec with 30% each of Cabernet and Bonarda, with deep colour, subtle oak, plum and damson fruit, appealing sweetness and a tang of mineral acidity. Drink: 2014-18 Page 42 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 92 2012 Passionate Wine Montesco Punta Negra Pinot Noir 12.8%, Tupungato Light on alcohol and colour, but not on flavour (or passion for that matter), the Michelinis’ Tupungato Pinot is all about subtlety and freshness not oak or power. Elegant and refined with subtle cherry and pomegranate fruit, attractive reduction and a mineral bite. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Pulenta Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 14.5%, Agrelo Of the basic red varieties at Pulenta Estate, this one (somewhat surprisingly perhaps) stands out. It’s a very pure expression of the grape: leafy and elegant with an undertone of dried herbs, sweet cassis fruit and very subtle, even-handed use of oak. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Riglos Gran Malbec 15%, Tupungato Sourced from the Las Divas Vineyard, this is typical of the Riglos style, combining ripe, textured fruit with underlying elegance and appealing use of oak. You don’t taste the alcohol here, such is the minerality beneath it. The tannins are particularly fine. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Rutini Malbec 13.9%, Mendoza Blended across two Uco Valley sub-regions (La Consulta and Tupungato), this is a very dense, concentrated Malbec with alluring aromas of orange peel and Asian spices, soft tannins, well- integrated oak and a fresh, palate-cleansing finish. My kind of Malbec. Drink: 2014-17 2010 Salentein Single Vineyard Malbec, Plot No. 21 14.5%, Uco Valley Sourced from Salentein’s Finca La Pampa vineyards at 1,300 metres, this is the highest Malbec on the estate. The oak is a little prominent at the moment, but should fold into the wine over time. There’s a nice tension here between ripe, juicy fruit and underlying minerality. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Terrazas de los Andes Single Vineyard Malbec 15%, Las Compuertas This low-yielding parcel is ungrafted and was planted in 1929. The resulting wine is rich and concentrated with good backbone and structure. There’s a lift of fresh acidity and dense, almost chewy black fruit fruit. Serious stuff that’s made to age. Drink: 2014-18 2011 TintoNegro 1955 Vineyard Malbec 14%, La Consulta TintoNegro is one of several brands that combine the marketing skills of Jeff Mausbach and the winemaking talents of Alejandro Sejanovich and is focused exclusively on old vine Mendoza Malbec. This one comes from La Consulta and is less oaky and structured than some of their wines, favouring finesse, perfume and balance over extraction. Floral, refreshing and long on the palate, with a chalky bite. Drink: 2014-18 Page 43 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 92 2011 TintoNegro Finca La Escuela Malbec 14%, Altamira There’s a slight departure from the “Malbec only” rule at TintoNegro for this wine, which was co-fermented with 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Aged in older barrels (and all the better for it) it’s a limestone-influenced blend that combines fresh minerality with fine tannins and sweet red fruits. Drink: 2014-19 2011 Trapiche Gran Medalla Cabernet Sauvignon 14.5%, Uco Valley Every bit as good as the Gran Medalla Malbec, but sourced from La Consulta, this is among the best expressions of the grape in Argentina, especially at this price. Minerally, fresh and limestone-etched, it’s sappy and mouth-watering with complex, leafy, blackcurrant fruit. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Trapiche Gran Medalla Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley The grapes for this Uco Valley Malbec all come from vineyards in Los Arboles at 1,380 metres, hence the marked freshness and minerality in the wine: peppery, savoury and bright, this carries its 14.5% alcohol with ease. Great value at under £20. Drink: 2014-18 2009 Trapiche Iscay Syrah/Viognier 14.5%, Mendoza A high altitude Syrah/Viognier blend from Los Arboles, with just enough of the latter grape (3%) for complexity rather than intrusion. Savoury, sweet, dense and aromatic, with notes of iodine and woodsmoke, this is a very classy addition to the Iscay range, showing Daniel Pi’s understanding of the Côte Rôtie formula. Drink: 2014-19 2011 Tres 14 Tinto de Garage 14.5%, Lunlunta Tres 14 is the personal project of Daniel Pi, the long-time winemaker at Trapiche and the man behind some of Argentina’s best reds. This garage Malbec from Lunlunta is made from very old vines and shows plenty of ripe, textured fruit, supported by acidity and subtle oak. Drink: 2014-18 2009 Viña Alicia Paso de Piedra Malbec 14.5%, Luján de Cuyo Made from 150-year-old Malbec vines, this is a lighter style than the same winery’s Brote Negro, with 50% of the ageing done in stainless steel for more freshness. Pepper and liquorice notes combine attractively with the plummy fruit and supple tannins. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Viña Cobos Bramare Malbec 14.8%, Uco Valley Dense, rich and aromatic, with plenty of chocolatey oak, saturated colour and masses of sweet plummy fruit. This flirts with over-ripeness, but has serious ageworthy tannins, hints of pepper spice and a lift of acidity, arriving like the Seventh Cavalry in the nick of time. Drink: 2014-18 Page 44 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 92 92 92 92 91 91 2011 Zorzal Climax Malbec 14.3%, Gualtallary The oak is a little prominent on this red, especially for a wine made by one of the Michelini brothers (Juan Pablo), but this is still a very faithful to its cool, high altitude terroir. Pure violets on the nose, with orange peel and plum and blackberry sweetness on the palate. The oak just dries the fruit a little on the finish. Drink: 2014-19 2012 Zorzal Eggo Malbec 14.5%, Gualtallary Eggo is a blend of 90% Malbec with a little Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon for good measure, aged in concrete eggs and reflecting the “ego of the oenologist”, according to Gerardo Michelini. Typically fine and well balanced with fresh flavours of blackcurrant and black cherry and vibrant acidity. A wine to drink by the bottle. Drink: 2014-18 2009 Zorzal Field Blend Reserve 14.1%, Gualtallary You’ve got to be bold to make a wine with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon (and 30% Malbec) in cool climate Gualtallary, just in case the tannins don’t ripen, but this field blend is very classy indeed. Fresh, chalky and refined, it’s minty and fresh with lovely balance and length. Drink: 2014-19 2012 Zuccardi Q Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza A densely coloured blend of grapes from Vistaflores and La Consulta, both in the Uco Valley, this is the Zuccardis’ mid-priced Malbec. It’s a big step up on the 2011, showing brighter flavours and aromas and appealing blackberry fruit supported by acidity. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Achaval Ferrer Quimera 13.9%, Mendoza Quimera is generally the least exciting wine from this outstanding winery, but it’s still an impressive blend of the five red Bordeaux varieties. Soft, sweet and supple with a green undertone from Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon, it’s fresher and more mineral than the Malbecs. Drink: 2014-18 2012 Alta Vista Atemporal Malbec/Touriga Nacional Limited Edition 13.5%, Uco Valley One of a growing number of wines with a little Touriga Nacional in their blends, this shows why the grape is an ideal foil for Malbec, so aromatic are the two varieties. Ginger and Asian spices on the nose, with understated oak, good acidity and succulent fruit flavours. Drink: 2014-17 91 2011 Alta Vista Temis Single Vineyard Malbec 15%, El Cepillo From the southern end of the Uco Valley, this is a deeply coloured Malbec that’s at the riper extreme of the flavour spectrum. Structured and quite firm, it’s got good underlying plum and blackberry fruit and an upper cut of acidity that slightly takes you by surprise. Drink: 2015-19 Page 45 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 91 2011 Altos La Hormigas Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda Reserve 14.3%, Medrano This wine is one of only two exceptions to the almost fanatical focus on Malbec here. (The other is the straight Bonarda.) It’s worth paying more for the Reserve bottling, aged in foudres for a year, because it’s got more structure and tannin, with black fruits supported by acidity, too. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Amalaya Tinto de Corte 14%, Cafayate Winemaker Francisco Puga makes his supple, well balanced red from Malbec blended with 20% Cabernet and 10% Syrah. It’s a soft, aromatic style with lots of red fruits, a touch of new oak and a refreshing, sappy finish. It also sells surprisingly well in France. Drink: 2014-16 2011 Andeluna Altitud Cabernet Sauvignon 14%, Tupungato The vines for this varietal Cabernet were planted in 1993, so they’ve got some age to them. It’s quite a green, herbal style (as you’d expect from this part of the Uco Valley) but it’s well done, with some mint, well-integrated oak, refreshing acidity and a mineral tang. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Bodega Aleanna El Enemigo Malbec 14%, Mendoza A high altitude blend of mostly Malbec with 11% Cabernet Franc, this is the mid-priced wine from Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena’s exciting Mendoza winery. Sweet and ripe, yet refreshing at the same time, with haunting perfume and a spicy note from whole bunch fermentation. Drink: 2014-16 2011 Bodega del Desierto Cabernet Franc 14%, La Pampa This is the best of the recent vintages of Cabernet Franc (a grape variety that’s something of a speciality in the wilds of La Pampa). It’s floral, leafy and well balanced with fine-grained tannins, subtle oak and an undertone of green pepper. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Bodega del Río Elorza Verum Cabernet Franc 14%, Río Negro Made at a promising new boutique winery in Río Negro, which released its first wines as recently as 2007, this is a Cabernet Franc that wouldn’t look out of place in the Loire Valley. Balanced and grassy with appealing freshness and subtle oak intergration. A winery to watch. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Bodega El Esetco Chañar Punco Malbec 15%, Cafayate This is a big wine, especially for Cafayate, which doesn’t always achieve the depth and power that Mendoza does in its Malbecs. There’s also the herbal, green tea notes that are typical of the region, but it’s the concentration of the fruit and the amount of oak that dominate the wine. Drink: 2015-19 Page 46 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 91 2012 Bodega El Esteco Don David Malbec Reserve 14%, Cafayate Showing the green, herbal note that’s often a feature of wines from Cafayate, Alejandro Pepa’s Malbec is savoury and spicy with well-integrated oak, velvety tannins and a fresh, lingering finish. Very different from the sort of wines you find in Mendoza. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Bodega Iaccarini Cavas Don Nicasio Bonarda 14%, San Rafael This old San Rafael winery was modernised in 2009 and the results are worth keeping an eye on. Very much at the ambitious end of the Bonarda market, this densely oaked example shows flavours of black plum and black cherry, with a waft of dried herbs, a touch of violet and rose petal, medium weight tannins and mineral freshness on the finish. Drink: 2014-18 2005 Carmelo Patti Cabernet Sauvignon 13.8%, Luján de Cuyo Carmelo Patti’s wines are spoken of with awe by some Argentineans. They are very much of the old school - released late and made in a traditional style - but they have a certain appeal. His Cabernet is the one I like most, partly because it has more freshness, but also because it’s less dry and feral. This is leafy and sweet, with supple tannins, nice texture and a savoury, supple finish. Drink up. Drink: 2014-15 2010 Catena Alta Historic Rows Malbec 14%, Mendoza The grapes for this well-made Malbec come from six different Mendoza sources, ranging in altitude from 920m to 1,450m. It’s quite a commercial style, showing sweet, soft ripe fruit flavours, aromatic oak and fine tannins. To my palate, it could do with a little more acidity. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Chakana Estate Selection Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza A very modern style of Malbec that’s aimed fairly and squarely at the mass market. Vibrant, juicy and appealing this has smooth tannins, understated oak, classic violet aromas, a touch of aniseed and tangy, refreshing finish. Drink: 2014-16 2009 Cheval des Andes 14.5%, Luján de Cuyo I have to admit to finding this a little disappointing in 2009. It’s almost as if it’s trying too hard to be serious and forgetting to express the fruit exuberance that characterises Argentinean reds. It’s firm, compact and bold, with a lot of structure and power, plenty of ambition but not quite enough charm. Maybe it just needs time in bottle. Drink: 2014-18 2012 Domaine Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 14.5%, Tupungato A Cabernet that declares its cool climate origins on the nose and palate, this has the chalky minerality that is so typical of wines from Gualtallary. It’s youthful, fresh and aromatic, with subtle oak, cassis and blackcurrant leaf flavours and a long, mineral finish. Drink: 2014-18 Page 47 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 91 2012 Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Signature Cabernet 14.3%, Mendoza Susana Balbo’s signature Cabernet contains 5% Malbec for added complexity, blending sources across Mendoza, too. It’s true to the variety, with flavours of mint and cassis, smooth tannins and appealing use of oak. The move away from US barrels is welcome here. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Familia Schroeder Alto Limay Pinot Noir Select 14%, Neuquén A blend of clones 777 and R4 (reflecting the improved plant material available in Argentina), this is a fruit-dominated style of Pinot with the faintest hint of oak. Bramble jelly and red fruits are supported by tangy acidity and a hint of tannin. Very drinkable. Drink: 2014-16 2012 Familia Schroeder Saurus Malbec Barrel Fermented 14.5%, Neuquén Familia Schroeder is emerging as one of the best wineries in Neuquén. This barrel-fermented Malbec is less oaky than it sounds (thank goodness). It’s smoky and sweet with medium weight tannins and palate-caressing black fruits. Long and refreshing, too. Drink: 2014-17 2010 Finca Decero Cabernet Sauvignon Remolinos Vineyard 14.3%, Agrelo This isn’t quite as fine as the Malbec from the same vineyard, close to the Ruta 7 highway, but it’s still impressive. Subtle, restrained and sensitively oaked, with classic blackcurrant flavours, medium weight tannins and very good balance, especially for young vines. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Finca Decero Petit Verdot Remolinos Vineyard 14%, Agrelo There aren’t enough varietal Petit Verdots in Argentina, given how well the grape performs. As the vines mature, this example is getting better and better. Floral, savoury and dense, with impressive structure and restrained power, it’s what you expect from Petit Verdot. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Finca La Celia Heritage 15%, Uco Valley A single vineyard Malbec from La Consulta, this isn’t short of oak or flavour, but it’s not an overpowering wine. Rose petal aromas combine with the oak-derived vanilla notes, supple red fruits, softish tannins and a fresh finish. The wine looks impressive, too. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Finca Las Moras Gran Syrah 15%, San Juan A blend of 70% fruit from the high altitude Pedernal Valley with 30% from the Zonda and Tulum Valleys, this is often among the best value Syrahs in Argentina, with a touch of Viognier for Côte Rôtie-like authenticity. Spice, texture and appealing oak all add to the mix here. Drink: 2014-16 Page 48 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 91 2011 Gimenez Riili Gran Familia Syrah Limited Edition 14.5%, Uco Valley Made under the umbrella of the Vines of Mendoza operation, this is the first Syrah from the Gimenez Riili family. It’s very dense, oaky and concentrated, but that’s partly a reflection of the wine’s youth. Muscular and structured, it has a core of sweet plum and blackberry fruit, well judged oak and good acidity. A wine (and winery) to watch. Drink: 2015-19 2010 Hand of God Old Vine Malbec, Stolen Horse Vineyard 14.5%, Maipú Clearly a name to keep an eye on, given the winemaker behind it, this is quite a ripe, forward style of Malbec from old vines in Maipú. The alcohol is a little too marked, but there’s plenty of oak, structure and fruit weight here. Not one to keep, but a very commercial style. Drink: 2014-16 2011 Lagarde Malbec 14.4%, Mendoza This isn’t as expensive as the Primeras Viñas bottling from the same winery, but you can see the hand of oenologist Juan Roby (and the expression of the grape) in both wines. The oak is quite prominent, but this has density and fruit concentration underpinned by acidity. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Luigi Bosca De Sangre 13.5%, Mendoza Made for the first time in 2008, this wine combines Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% each of Merlot and Syrah, all from Lunlunta. It’s made in a restrained style, showing subtle oak, leafy, berry fruit, a touch of mint and refreshing acidity on the finish. Drink: 2014-18 2012 Melipal Cabernet Franc 14%, Mendoza One of a growing number of good Cabernet Francs in Mendoza, this is a very serious red. Grassy, sweet and intense, it’s good the tannic structure to develop in bottle, with minty, earthy notes and palate-cleansing acidity. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Mendel Malbec 14.3%, Mendoza I’m more of a fan of the two vintages on other side of this one (the 2012 Malbec, which is still in barrel, is superb) but this is still a good wine: muscular, dense and quite firm with tannins that are a little chewy and rustic. There’s plenty of ripe, figgy fruit, too, but make sure you decant this before you serve it. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Mythic Estate Icono Malbec 14.7%, Luján de Cuyo There’s a spicy, herbal note to this wine that’s a little Syrah like. On the palate, it’s got something of the same flavours, too, with supple, textured fruit, hints of liquorice and bramble, well-integrated oak and an elegant refreshing finish. A wine that wears its alcohol lightly. Drink: 2014-18 Page 49 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 91 2011 Norton Privada 14.5%, Mendoza Privada is a blend of Malbec with 30% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a very ambitious wine, which ages well too. Dense, oaky and plush, with smoky, bacon fat, liquorice and blackberry flavours, it needs another year or two in bottle to approach its best. Drink: 2015-20 2009 O Fournier B Crux Blend 15%, Uco Valley B Crux always combines Tempranillo and Merlot, but the other elements have changed over the years and include Touriga Nacional for the first time in 2009. This is a little developed on the nose, but is fresher on the palate, with Touriga adding extra perfume and a savoury note. Plum, liquorice and ripe tannins add to the appeal of the wine. Drink: 2014-16 2010 Pascal Toso Magdalena Toso 14.5%, Mendoza The icon red wine from Pascal Toso is a blend of mostly Malbec with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon that’s just getting into its stride. Showing restraint and ageing potential, with firmish tannins and ripe, figgy fruit, it’s a serious wine that will reward further ageing. Drink: 2014-19 2012 Passionate Wine Diverso Syrah 11%, Gualtallary Fermented in concrete eggs, this is a daringly light and elegant Syrah from the high Uco Valley, with freshness and focus, rather than power to the fore. Red fruits, some clove spice and elegant tannins make this a very welcome and drinkable red. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Riccitelli República del Malbec 15%, Vistalba This is the most ambitious wine from Matías Riccitelli, made in a bold, strapping style from ripe Perdriel fruit. The tannins are a little firm at the moment, and there’s plenty of oak, too, but the fruit should integrate over the next year or two. Drink: 2014-17 2009 Rutini Antología Merlot XXIX 14.5%, Mendoza Mariano di Paola rates Merlot, not Malbec, as his favourite grape, supported in this example by 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. It’s certainly an ambitious wine with plenty of backbone and structure, bright, tangy acidity and plush, ripe, fruitcake flavours. The tannins need time to soften in bottle. Drink: 2015-18 2011 Rutini Cabernet Sauvignon 14%, Tupungato The Cabernet grapes for this wine come from close to the winery in Tupungato and show some of the freshness of the site. It’s a rich, compact style with appealing vanilla oak, firmish tannins and grassy, yet full-flavoured fruit. Has the structure to age further. Drink: 2015-18 Page 50 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 91 2011 Rutini Pinot Noir 14%, Mendoza Made with Pinot Noir grapes from Altamira (an area that is better suited to Malbec in my view) this is still a more than credible stab at this trickiest of varieties. It’s sweet and quite forward, with raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, understated oak and a thrust of acidity. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Salentein Numina Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley The higher altitudes of Salentein’s vineyards is apparent in all of its wines, not just Pinot and Chardonnay. This refreshing Malbec is a case in point, showing bright acidity, fine tannins and floral, almost leafy notes. Deeply coloured and intense, but still refreshing. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Salentein Primus Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley This Malbec comes from a range of plots at Salentein, most of them on very poor, stony soils. It’s on the oaky side, showing fruit that is at the riper end of the spectrum as well as notes of wild herbs. Good enough, but doesn’t have quite the drive and expression of the other Primus releases. The 2013 (tasted from barrel) is a big improvement. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Terrazas de los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon 14%, Mendoza The sources this time are Perdriel (close to the winery) and La Consulta. You’d expect a French-owned company to be good at making Cabernet Sauvignon, and you’d be right. This has a serious tannic backbone, with fresh acidity and green, leafy, minty flavours. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Terrazas de los Andes Malbec 14%, Mendoza Using fruit from Las Compuertas, La Consulta and Altamira, this is an appealing Malbec aimed at the commercial end of the market without pandering to excessive sweetness in the wine. It’s certainly got plenty of fruit, but there’s good support from oak and welljudged tannins. Drink: 2014-16 2012 Trapiche Broquel Petit Verdot 14%, Mendoza This is the best of the Broquel reds as well as a promising Petit Verdot in its own right, showing that the grape (planted in Maipú on an old river bed) has real promise, retaining acidity in warm conditions. Peppery and sweet, with good concentration and a savoury tang. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Trumpeter Reserve Malbec 14%, Mendoza There was a slight bit of reduction on this when I tasted it in November 2013, but it blew off in the glass. Juicy, sweet and appealing, this has plenty of aromatic lift, seductive black fruits and attractive oak. Definitely a step-up on the regular release. Drink: 2014-17 Page 51 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 91 2007 Val de Flores 15%, Uco Valley If you like the styles of wine that Michel Rolland makes in Argentina (and often elsewhere), you’ll enjoy this wine. If you prefer your Malbec with a little more acidity and freshness you may find it heavy going. I tend towards the latter view. It’s got nice sweetness and oak integration, but the alcohol dominates the finish. Drink: 2014-16 2007 Viña Alicia Paso de Piedra Cabernet Sauvignon 14%, Luján de Cuyo For an entry level Cabernet (albeit at a retail price of £17.95), this is a European style, with fine-grained tannins, fresh acidity and savoury, food-friendly flavours. The fruit is low key rather than explosive, but none the worse for it. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Viña Cobos Bramare Malbec 14.7%, Luján de Cuyo Made with fruit from older vines than the Uco Valley (La Consulta) bottling, this is showing a little more oak at the moment, but is richer and more concentrated, too, with plenty of texture, dark black fruits and the structure to age further in bottle. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Viña Cobos Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 14.7%, Mendoza The soils in this part of the vineyard are slightly rockier and well suited to Cabernet, according to Andrea Marchiori. Dense and oaky, with structured tannins, big bold flavours, good texture and body and a sweet plum and blackcurrant core. Just a little too ripe for me. Drink: 2014-19 2012 Viñalba Reservado Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley If you want to taste a Malbec that delivers authentic Gualtallary fruit at an affordable price, this is it. Aromatic, refreshing and floral, this is lightly oaked, allowing the fruit to express itself in the glass. Textured, long and wonderfully commercial. Drink: 2014-16 2012 Viñalba Reserve 50/50 14.5%, Uco Valley The 50/50 refers to the blend of grapes (a Bordeaux-influenced combination of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon), all of it from the high altitude Uco Valley. Fresh, balanced and poised, it’s a very drinkable red, with the oak integration that’s a hallmark of the winery. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Zorzal Gran Terroir Malbec 14%, Gualtallary Unlike the Terroir Unico Malbec, this is aged in oak (none of it new, of course). It’s deeper in colour, but also more developed than the unoaked version. Less vibrant perhaps, but still showing the acidity and brightness that’s a feature of the Zorzal style. Drink: 2014-16 Page 52 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 91 91 90 2010 Zorzal Porfiado Pinot Noir 13%, Gualtallary This doesn’t have the subtlety or complexity of the Gran Terroir Pinot from the same winery, but it’s still an enjoyable expression of the variety, showing sweet red fruits, bright acidity and lots of perfume, with some toasty oak on the finish. Drink: 2014-16 2013 Zorzal Terroir Unico Malbec 14%, Gualtallary The unique terroir is Gualtallary, where the Michelini brothers have made their home. There’s no oak here, just gentle fruit expression and the stamp of the high Uco Valley. Mineral and fresh, with a hint of reduction, supple red fruits and lovely persistence. Drink: 2014-18 2012 Alta Vista Atemporal Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc Limited Edition 14%, Mendoza Philippe Rolet’s French origins show through in some of his winemaking, as he favours longevity and structure in his reds over easy-drinking fruit. This has quite a bit of oak and tannin at the moment, but the underlying fruit - grassy and refreshing with a graphite-like note - is promising. Drink: 2015-18 2010 Alta Vista Malbec Terroir Selection 15.5%, Mendoza There are several vineyard sources for this wine, two of them in Luján de Cuyo and two in the Uco Valley. It’s a rich, even flamboyant style that’s a little marked by high alcohol, but has underlying mineral freshness. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Anko Flor de Cardon Malbec 13.5%, Cafayate Anko is the name given to the wines that Jeff Mausbach and Alejandro Sekanovich produce in Salta. This structured, assertively oaked Malbec comes from grapes grown in Tolombón on very stony, Châteauneuf-like soils. It’s a big, brooding wine, but has good underlying freshness. Drink: 2014-18 2009 Bodega del Desierto Pampa Malbec 15.2%, La Pampa From an isolated vineyard surrounded by 160 kilometres of desert, this carries its alcohol lightly. The vines are still young here, but this is a focused, textured Malbec with ripe, plummy fruit and refreshing acidity. The oak is a little intrusive, but should integrate in bottle. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Caro 15%, Mendoza I’d give this wine a higher mark if it weren’t undermined by gamey, brettanomyces-like aromas and flavours. It’s a big, ripe, lavishly oaked blend, combining the winemaking knowhow of both Catena Zapata and Château Lafite, but it ought to be more exciting than it is. Drink: 2014-18 Page 53 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 90 2010 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon 14%, Mendoza Blended and part co-fermented with 12% Cabernet Franc (one of winemaker Alejandro Vigil’s favourite varieties), this is more of a dry red than a Cabernet Sauvignon in style. It’s soft, ripe and appealingly oaked with supple plum and blackberry fruit. Drink: 2014-16 2012 Chakana Estate Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza Floral, soft and perfumed, with the emphasis on fruit rather than oak flavours, this is juicy and appealing, with enough acidity on the finish to keep the wine bright and breezy. Appealing stuff. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Chakana Estate Syrah 14.5%, Mendoza No one has really cracked Syrah yet in Argentina, but this one comes closer than a lot of wineries. The oak is skilfully handled (as ever), the tannins smooth and supple, the fruit sweet and juicy with an appealing fruit salad of red plum and strawberry and a meaty undertone. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Coquena Malbec 14.5%, Calchaqui Valley Marcos Etchart’s unoaked Malbec is youthful and packed with fruit. It’s a highly drinkable style, with some pepper spice, sweet raspberry fruit and a touch of clove. Malbec meets Syrah or Pinot Noir? The absence of oak is most welcome, allowing the flavours to express themselves. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Domaine Bousquet Ameri 15.5%, Tupungato The top red at this organic winery is a blend of Malbec with 30% Cabernet and 20% Syrah. It’s richer and more alcoholic than most of the Bousquet wines, with a corresponding increase in the percentage of new oak. Sweet and brambly with smoky, vanilla overtones. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Domaine Bousquet Gaia 15.5%, Tupungato An equal blend of Syrah and Malbec named after the Greek goddess of the earth. It’s more of a masculine than feminine wine with bags of flavour, oak and concentration, but enough underlying minerality and freshness for balance. The tannins are just a little dry. Drink: 2014-18 2012 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Reserve 14.5%, Tupungato A charming Malbec from the largest organic producer in Argentina, this is very perfumed indeed. It’s well balanced and judiciously oaked with forward fruit flavours, tangy acidity and a refreshing finish. A wine that converses rather than shouts at you. Drink: 2014-17 Page 54 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 90 2011 Dominio del Plata Benmarco Expresivo 14.5%, Mendoza An Uco Valley meets Luján assemblage of six varieties (Malbec, Cabernet, Syrah, Tannat, Petit Verdot and Bonarda) this is slightly less than the sum of its parts. There’s plenty of flavour on offer but the oak is a little too marked at present. It should integrate in bottle, however. Drink: 2015-19 2012 Dominio del Plata Benmarco Malbec 14%, Mendoza There’s 5% Bonarda in the blend here, with most of the fruit coming from Agrelo. The fruit is juicy and sweet, with good concentration and silky tannins, but I still find the oak a little too intrusive on the palate, drying out the fruit on the finish. Nearly there... Drink: 2014-19 2012 Dominio del Plata Vaglio 14.4%, Argentina A cross-regional blend that combines Tannat from Salta with Petit Verdot from Agrelo and Malbec from the Uco Valley, this is the first release of this wine. It’s dense and plummy with sweet vanilla oak, a hint of liquorice and structured, if slightly firm tannins. Drink: 2015-18 2011 El Porvenir de Cafayate Icon 14.7%, Cafayate The blend here is based on Malbec with Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat and Syrah providing the supporting cast. The sample I tasted was showing a little reduction, but the underlying fruit is herbal and sweet, with fine tannins and bright acidity. The alcohol is on the high side. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Familia Schroeder Alto Limay Pinot Noir Joven 14%, Neuquén The percentage of new clones is smaller on this wine than on Schroeder’s Select Pinot, but it’s still a very good drink, with attractive summer pudding flavours and gentle use of oak. Winemaker Leonardo Puppato’s recent vintage experience working with Paul Hobbs in California is bearing fruit. Drink: 2014-16 2010 Finca Las Moras Mora Negra 14.5%, Pedernal The Malbec and (15%) Bonarda grapes that make up this San Juan cuvée all come from the Pedernal Valley. It’s got some appealing mineral freshness on the finish, despite the marked alcohol, and oodles of supple, brambly fruit. One of San Juan’s more interesting reds. Drink: 2014-16 2011 Humberto Canale Old Vineyard Pinot Noir 13.5%, Río Negro There’s quite a bit of oak on this Río Negro Pinot Noir, but it’s backed up by fruit weight and acidity. There’s almost a bloody, meaty note to this wine, giving it an extra dimension of complexity. The oak should soak into the wine over the next six months or so. Drink: 2014-16 Page 55 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 90 2001 La Revancha, La Primera Revancha 14.3%, Mendoza A Malbec-dominated red with just a splash of Cabernet Franc, this has more obvious oak than the Gran Revancha from the de la Motas. It’s firmer and chewier but still has attractive blackberry and bramble fruit and tangy acidity on the finish. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Lagarde Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc 14.1%, Mendoza This isn’t the freshest or most aromatic of Mendoza Cabernet Francs, partly because it’s intended to be a riper expression of the grape, but it’s still true to the variety, showing good acidity, medium tannins and a hint of graphite and green pepper. The fruit is sweet and concentrated. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Manos Negras Pinot Noir 14%, Neuquén Manos Negras is one of three projects run by Jeff Musbach and Alejandro Sejanovich, producing two Pinots from Añelo in Neuquén. There’s no shortage of colour here, but the wine has delicacy too, with gentle oak, juicy red fruit flavours and cool climate acidity. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Manos Negras Zaha Cabernet Franc 14%, Altamira Intensely coloured Cabernet Franc that conforms to what is something of a house style at Manos Negras. It’s pretty oak and concentrated, but there’s plenty of rich, slightly jammy fruit for balance. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Masi Passo Doble 13.5%, Tupungato Passo Doble has two meanings here. It’s made with the ripassimento technique that’s so popular in Masi’s native Veneto and it’s a two step between a pair of grapes: Malbec and Corvina. It’s quite Italian in style, with a combination of red fruits (cherry and raspberry), medium tannins and bright acidity. The slight reduction disappears in the glass. Drink: 2014-17 2010 Monteviejo Petite Fleur 14.5%, Uco Valley Priced slightly above Clos de los Siete (which comes from the same set of vineyards) this is a blend of mostly Malbec with Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s rich and ripe, but the fruit is a little pruney. Picking earlier would confer much-needed freshness here. Drink: 2014-15 2012 Nieto Senetiner Cadus Single Vineyard Bonarda 14.3%, Alto Agrelo This is the vintage of Cadus that is on the market at the moment, but the arrival of winemaker Santiago Mayorga from Mendel has had a very beneficial impact on the 2013, so I’d wait for that instead. This is dark and brooding - almost monolithic - with notes of iodine and incense and lashings of oak. The 2013 is better balanced. Drink: 2014-18 Page 56 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 90 2011 Norton Winemaker’s Reserve Malbec 14.4%, Mendoza Always very drinkable, especially given the volumes in which it’s produced, Norton’s midmarket Malbec mostly hails from Agrelo. Rose petal and violet aromas segue into a balanced, supple, easy drinking style with well-judged oak. Drink: 2014-16 2011 Passionate Wine Malbon 13.5%, Tupungato There are surprisingly few blends of Malbec and Bonarda (the two most planted red grapes in Argentina) especially at the top end. Matías Michelini has made an ambitious and, for him, quite oaky blend that’s serious, dense and full of flavour, with notes of mint and black fruits. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Passionate Wine Diverso Merlot 11%, Tupungato Typically fresh and appealing, with the emphasis on acidity and drinkability, this is a leafy, sappy Merlot from the northern Uco Valley. There’s a touch of smoky reduction at first, but it dissipates in the glass. Balanced and nuanced with minerality and crunchy acidity. Drink: 2014-17 2010 Pulenta Estate Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza A blend of two vineyard sources in Agrelo, the Pulentas’ Malbec always delivers a lot of flavour and complexity at an affordable price. Appealingly aromatic, with notes of black cherry and sweet raspberry, a touch of oak and succulent tannins. Drink: 2014-17 2008 Pulenta Estate Merlot 14.5%, Agrelo A wine that is true to its variety (not always the case with Merlot in Argentina) this is appealingly smooth, with notes of green pepper and fruitcake, supple tannins, wellintegrated oak and enough acidity and freshness to balance the ripe fruit flavours. Drink: 2014-16 Renacer Malbec 15.2%, Luján de Cuyo The top Malbec from this Perdriel-based winery combines fruit from Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley. Consultant Alberto Antonini has made the most of the old vine material to produce a super ripe, concentrated Malbec that is ageing gracefully. Dense and serious, with flavours of black figs, sweet oak, liquorice and blackberry. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Riccitelli The Apple Doesn’t Fall Far From The Tree Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza The cryptic label is a reference to Matías Riccitelli’s father, Jorge, who is the winemaker at Norton. This is his entry point Malbec and it’s supremely drinkable, as well as less oaky than his higher end reds. The emphasis is on juicy, supple, aromatic fruit here, with freshness and medium-weight tannins. Drink: 2014-16 Page 57 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 90 2012 Riccitelli Vineyard Selection Malbec 14.5%, Mendoza As well as making the wines at Fabre Montmayou, the youthful Matías Riccitelli makes his own reds. This is typical of the style: picked late, given the full oak treatment and packed with flavour. This isn’t the most elegant Malbec in the world, but it has enough acidity for balance. Drink: 2014-17 2009 Rutini Antología Malbec XXVIII 14.3%, Mendoza I like this blend of mostly Malbec with 15% Petit Verdot and 5% Syrah less than I do the Apartado Gran Malbec, partly because it’s made in a riper, almost pruney style with a volatile lift. Oaky and ripe, but lacks the freshness of the best Rutini reds. Drink: 2014-16 2011 Rutini Syrah 13.4%, Mendoza A profoundly coloured Syrah from Altamira, showing perfume and smoky flavours. The tannins are a little dry here perhaps, but there’s plenty of black fruits and the acidity lifts the wine on the finish. I feel this might be better as part of a blend. Drink: 2014-18 2013 Trapiche Broquel Pinot Noir 14.5%, Agrelo Daniel Pi seems to be able to turn his hand to any variety, including temperamental Pinot Noir, and make very tasty mid-market wines out of them. This has some spice from 25% whole bunch fermentation, juicy, red berry fruit and palate-cleansing acidity. Drink: 2014-16 2011 Trapiche Finca la Palmas Malbec Gran Reserva 14.5%, Uco Valley A Malbec sourced entirely from Altamira in the Uco Valley, this is another example of the value for money provided under the Finca Las Palmas label. Deeply coloured and intensely aromatic, it’s bursting with plummy fruit, but corseted by restraining acidity. Essence of Uco Malbec. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Trumpeter Malbec 13.6%, Mendoza Rutini’s lower priced wines deliver a lot of flavour for your pesos, pounds and dollars. This one has plenty of sweet fruit, some smoky oak and notes of pepper spice and chocolate. The tannins, as ever, are supple and fine-grained, praiseworthy in such a big production wine. Drink: 2014-16 2013 Urban Uco Tempranillo/Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley The Urban Uco range from O Fournier is commendably reliable and well priced. This is the pick of the line up for me, combining Malbec with Tempranillo (a house speciality) in equal proportions. It’s sappy, sweet and sensitively oaked with black and red fruit flavours in harmony. Drink: 2014-16 Page 58 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 90 2011 Valle de la Puerta La Puerta Malbec Reserva 14%, Famatina Valley In a region that’s dominated by co-operatives and doesn’t always shine against the competition, this shows good potential. Grown at 1,000 metres, the Malbec grapes have produced a wine with red rather than black fruits, supple tannins and well-integrated oak. Drink: 2014-16 2012 Viña Cobos Felino Cabernet Sauvignon 14.3%, Mendoza Felino is the cheaper line from Viña Cobos, but it’s still a very good range at the price. This Cabernet is aged with some inner staves, but the oak is well integrated. Textured and smooth with soft tannins and flavours of blueberry and blackcurrant, with an appealing herbal backnote. Drink: 2014-16 2011 Viñalba Diane 15%, Luján de Cuyo Named after Diane Joyaux, co-owner of the winery, and released for the first time in 2009, this is a blend of Malbec and 15% Cabernet Franc. It’s riper than the normal Fabre Montmayou style, quite marked by oak, and destined to age in bottle. It needs time, but it’s still a little on the extracted side. Drink: 2015-19 2012 Viñalba Reservado Cuvée Couture 14.5%, Uco Valley A comparatively unusual blend of Malbec with 20% Touriga Nacional (Portuguese oenologist Rui Reguinga consults) with appealing pepper spice, highly aromatic fruit and deftly integrated French oak. A blend to watch. Drink 2014-18 2011 Zuccardi Q Cabernet Sauvignon 14.5%, Uco Valley It’s not easy to find good Cabernets from the Uco Valley, especially at approachable prices. This has some of the backbone you’d expect from the variety, as well as the green notes from high altitude Gualtallary grapes, but has an appealing mid palate of cassis and plum. Drink: 2014-18 2011 Zuccardi Q Tempranillo 14%, Mendoza Tempranillo hasn’t achieved the success some thought it would in Argentina, but the Zuccardis have a better handle on this early ripening grape than most other producers. Sourced from Santa Rosa, this is soft and juicy with a hint of fresh tobacco. Less oaky than in the past. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Zuccardi Serie A Malbec 14.5%, Uco Valley A blend of Malbecs from six different sources in the Uco Valley and Eastern Mendoza, this includes purchased grapes as well as some from the Zuccardis’ vineyards. It’s a commercial, but well made red, showing violets and red fruits underpinned by pepper spice and attractive oak. Drink: 2014-17 Page 59 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 90 2010 Zuccardi Zeta 15%, Uco Valley Zeta is a blend of 87% Malbec with 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, entirely from the Uco Valley. This is a little over-ripe for me, with some jammy, cooked fruit notes but is balanced by fresh acidity and a twist of the pepper grinder. It would taste better picked earlier, in my view. Drink: 2014-16 Whites 94 90 94 94 93 93 2010 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay 13%, Uco Valley The soils in this part of the Adrianna Vineyard have a far higher percentage of limestone than in the White Stones site. But otherwise, the vinification and grape handling are very similar. This is crisper and more focused with subtle oak, and bright, chalky fruit flavours. Argentina’s answer to Puligny-Montrachet. Drink: 2014-18 2012 Rutini Chardonnay 13.6%, Mendoza Mariano di Paola has a special touch with Chardonnay, making delicious wines at every price level. This cool climate, top end example is one of Argentina’s best: minerally, subtly-oaked and refined with 50% malolactic adding just enough texture and weight to the citrus, peach and oatmeal flavous. Long, nuanced and very well balanced. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Salentein Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Plot No. 2 13.5%, Uco Valley This unirrigated single vineyard Chardonnay comes from one of the highest spots in the Uco Valley (a vey chilly 1,605 metres) and is planted with a quasi-Burgundian density. It’s very mineral and taut, despite its 100% malolactic fermentation. Long and savoury, with understated oak and a complex, refreshing finish. Drink: 2014-18 2010 Bressia Lágrima Canela 14.1%, Uco Valley A wine that ages impressively well (I know, I’ve done the vertical), this blend of Chardonnay with 30% Semillon is among Argentina’s most complex whites. Creamy and refreshing, it can seem backward in its youth, but this has enticing herb and honeysuckle notes, citrus fruit acidity and well integrated vanilla oak. Drink: 2014-20 2010 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Stones Chardonnay 13%, Uco Valley As its name suggests, this high altitude Gualtallary Chardonnay comes from poor soils covered with white gravel. It’s a cool site, and the freshness shows in the wine: citrus allied to notes of honey and a touch of grapeskin-like texture. The oak is very subtle here, adding an extra dimension to the flavours of oatmeal and lemon rind. Drink: 2014-18 Page 60 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 93 2013 Dominio del Plata Benmarco Torrontés 14%, Uco Valley An ambitious take on Torrontés, giving it 50% new oak fermenation and some time on lees. First made in 2012, the wine is even better in 2013. It’s a little white Graves-like in style, with notes of grapefruit and struck flint, good minerality and subtly-oaked usage. Drink: 2014-17 2013 Doña Paula Estate Chardonnay 14.3%, Uco Valley The best Chardonnay David Bonomi has made yet and that’s high praise. Pale in colour and produced without malolactic fermentation to retain freshness, it’s a mealy, subtly-oaked white with appealing stone and citrus fruit flavours and a touch of minerally, struck match. Drink: 2014-18 2012 Escorihuela Gascón Pequeñas Produccíones Chardonnay 13.9%, Mendoza Winemaker Gustavo Marín has clearly been influenced by Alejandro Vigil of Catena Zapata (part of the same group) when it comes to making tasty Chardonnay. This is fresh and minerally with oak folded into the wine and delicious flavours of pear, citrus fruit and baking spices. Drink: 2014-17 2011 La Giostra del Vino Bacán Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 13%, Mendoza One of two vintages of Sauvignon Blanc that are currently on the market from Giuseppe Franceschini, this wouldn’t look out of place in Pessac-Léognan. Toast from ageing in 600 litre barrels combines with a creamy mid palate, subtle, gunflint and grapefruit flavours and a pithy, refeshing finish. One of Argentina’s very best Sauvignons. Drink: 2014-17 2013 Mendel Semillon 13.3%, Mendoza Why don’t more people make varietal Semillons in Argentina? This wine should surely be an inspiration to them, as it’s the best release yet from Mendel. Fresh and almost saline on the palate, with some waxy, leesy notes, a hint of gunflint and delicate oak integration. Drink: 2014-17 2011 Salentein Primus Chardonnay 14%, Uco Valley Priced above the single vineyard Chardonnay and fatter and broader in style, this comes from two different vineyard sites within the Salentein estate. Cream, oatmeal and honey are complemented by toasty, well-seasoned oak. Meursault to the Plot 2’s Puligny perhaps? Drink: 2014-17 2013 Zorzal Eggo Sauvignon Blanc 12%, Tupungato Unfiltered and aged on its lees for extra weight and concentration, this is one of the best Sauvignon Blancs in South America. It’s got some skin tannins too, as well as struck match aromas, crunchy acidity and layers of flavours. Mineral and smoky, it’s a wine that lingers on the palate. Drink: 2014-17 Page 61 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 92 2013 Alta Vista Premium Torrontés 14%, Salta Alta Vista consistently makes one of the best Torrontés in Argentina and that’s the case again in the very good 2013 vintage. Unoaked, but picked on three different dates for flavour complexity, it’s perfumed but not coarse in any way, with tangy acidity and no botrytis this year. Drink: 2014-16 2013 Colomé Torrontés 13.5%, Salta The style of this wine changed in 2011 towards a fresher expression of Torrontés, with the grapes chosen from three different altitudes for added complexity. It’s still got good texture, however, wth bright acidity to balance the glycerol sweetness and flavours of lime and orange zest. Drink: 2014-15 2013 Doña Paula Sauvignon Blanc 13%, Tupungato David Bonomi has always been good at making Sauvignon Blanc and this conforms to his usual high standards. It has no press wine, but undergoes ten hours of skin contact at low temperatures. Fresh, leafy and grapefruity, it’s a crunchy delight of a wine. Drink: 2014-16 2013 El Porvenir de Cafayate Oak-Fermented Torrontés 13.5%, Cafayate This expression of Torrontés gets four hours of skin contact as well as 50% barrel fermentation and the result is appealingly complex: vanilla spice, some marmalade and orange zest and a subtle interplay between oak, fruit and acidity. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Finca Sophenia Synthesis Sauvignon Blanc 12%, Tupungato Made from selected parcels picked over a period of six weeks to achieve different levels of ripeness and flavour, this lees-aged Sauvignon Blanc is one of Argentina’s best. Natural yeasts add to the complexity here. Tangy, focused and very mineral, with notes of oyster shell and elderflower. Drink: 2014-16 2012 La Giostra del Vino Bacán Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 13%, Mendoza Italians aren’t best known for making really good Sauvignon Blancs, but Giuseppe Franceschini seems to have a fine touch with this variety. This is more closed (and younger) than the 2011, showing more oak at this stage, but has lovely flavours of clove and cinnamon spice that marry beautifully with the subtle citrus and oyster shell notes. Drink: 2014-17 2011 O Fournier A Crux Sauvignon Blanc 13%, Uco Valley O Fournier tends to be thought of as a red wine producer, but this barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc shows that winemaker José Spisso can turn his hand to whites as well. Smoky, Graves-like and complex this shows appealing vanilla spice and notes of grapefruit and gunflint. Drink: 2014-17 Page 62 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 92 92 92 91 91 91 91 2013 Passionate Wine Montesco Agua de Roca Sauvignon Blanc 9.5%, Tupungato The lowest alcohol wine in Argentina, but none the worse for it, this is an exciting expression of Sauvignon from Matías Michelini, who knows the variety better than anyone. Salty, crunchy and high in acidity, it’s a mouthwatering wine with notes of oyster shell and green fig. Drink: 2014-16 2010 Passionate Wine Paso del Sapo Vino de Lejos Chardonnay 12.5%, Chubut Matías Michelini’s Chardonnay (made with sommelier Paz Levinson) pushes boundaries in a number of ways. First, it’s from Chubut, the most southerly region in Patagonia, and second it’s fermented with skins and bottled unfiltered. Honey, spice and some phenolics add to the interest of the wine. Drink: 2014-16 2012 Viña Cobos Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Chardonnay 14.4%, Mendoza Deliberately aimed at the US market with lots of colour, wild yeasts and 100% malolactic, this shows sweet oak, supported by toffee fudge, some spice and plenty of stone fruit richness. There’s enough acidity on the finish for balance, however, giving the wine a long, stylish finish. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Andeluna Altitud Chardonnay 14.5%, Tupungato Made with a combination of barrel and stainless steel fermentation (with malolactic fermentation on the 70% that is oaked) this is a very drinkable Chardonnay with some toast and oatmeal supported by citrus fruit freshness and a touch of cream. Drink: 2014-16 2013 Bodega El Esteco Ciclos Torrontés 14%, Cafayate Always among the best and most refreshing Torrontés in Cafayate, this comes from old vine, pergola-trained vines. It’s floral and citrus-tinged with good balance and none of the oiliness that can marr the variety at times. A very tasty aperitif. Drink: 2014-15 2011 Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay 14%, Mendoza The rows in question are to be found in the Catenas’ Adrianna and Domingo Vineyards, both of which have some limestone deposits. The peachy, melony ripeness is nicely integrated with toasty vanilla oak and refreshing acidity. Unfined and unfiltered. Drink: 2014-16 2012 DiamAndes de Uco Chardonnay 14.5%, Uco Valley Reflecting a shift to fresher styles at this Uco Valley bodega, this is pale and even a little closed at the moment, showing subtle barrel-fermented characters, flavours of pear and oatmeal, good focus and refreshing acidity. The alcohol is in balance, too. Drink: 2014-16 Page 63 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 91 2012 DiamAndes de Uco Viognier 13.5%, Uco Valley One of the better Viogniers in Argentina, there’s no mistaking the variety on the nose or palate here. Mixing stainless steel and barrel fermentation, it’s soft and apricotty, with appealing vanilla oak, a creamy mid-palate and a fresh, well balanced finish. Drink: 2014-15 2013 El Porvenir de Cafayate Laborum Single Vineyard Torrontés 13.2%, Cafayate Picked in three phases to achieve more complexity, this single vineyard white comes from 50-year-old pergola-trellised vines. It’s racy and refreshing, with subtle lemon and orange peel notes, a dry finish and a touch of grapeskin tannin. Drink: 2014-15 2012 Finca Agostino Agostino Familia 13.7%, Mendoza An all too rare (in Argentina) blend of mostly Semillon with 20% Sauvignon Blanc, this oakfermented white ought to encourage more people to follow suit. It’s a little soft perhaps, but with attractive herbal notes, some vanilla spice and a smoky finish. Drink: 2014-16 2013 Norton Perdriel Colección Sauvignon Blanc 12.7%, Perdriel Using 10% barrel fermentation to add an extra dimension, Jorge Riccitelli and his team have made a Sauvignon that’s more interesting than many Argentinean examples. Smoky and pithy with tangy acidity and a touch of struck match-like complexity. Drink: 2014-16 2013 Passionate Wine Montesco Verdes Cobardes 11%, Tupungato There’s nothing cowardly about this wine, but it’s certainly on the green side, with only 11% alcohol. Combining Sauvignon, Semillon, Chardonnay and a splash of Viognier, it’s subtle and bright with complex flavours of grapefruit, green herbs and honeysuckle. Drink: 2014-16 2013 Trapiche Broquel Torrontés 13.5%, Cafayate Containing 5% of Sauvignon Blanc and showing a little bit of gunflint-like aromas on the nose this is a very drinkable Torrontés from Cafayate. Bright and aromatic, with flavours of grapefruit and fresh grapes. Unusual and none the worse for that. Drink: 2014-15 2012 Trapiche Finca Las Palmas Grand Reserve Chardonnay 14%, Uco Valley The fruit for this well-priced Chardonnay comes from Los Arboles in the Uco Valley and has more weight, oak and lees influence than the Broquel release. Toasty oak, some stone fruit, a touch of crème fraîche and a focused, refreshing finish. Drink: 2014-16 2013 Trumpeter Chardonnay 13.7%, Tupungato Made in a style that combines elements of both New and Old World approaches, this Tupungato Chardonnay from Rutini is lead by tropical fruit but supported by acidity, a touch of oak and some malolactic for mid-palate weight. Very drinkable at the price. Drink: 2014-16 Page 64 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 91 90 2013 Zorzal Terroir Unico Sauvignon Blanc 11.8%, Tupungato Like the Passionate Wine Agua de Roca, this is a daring, pared back version of Sauvignon Blanc made in a deliberately restrained, almost chiselled style. Gunflint aromas and notes of grapefruit and mangetout, with tangy, mouthwatering acidity. Drink: 2014-17 2013 Amalaya White Blend 13.5%, Cafayate An unoaked blend of Torrontés and 15% Riesling, made in Cafayate but overseen by the winemaking team from Colomé. It’s a refreshing, grapey blend with appealing lemon and lime fruit and tangy, green apple acidity. Always a welcome drink in the heat of Cafayate desert. Drink: 2014-15 2013 Bodega El Esteco Don David Torrontés Reserve 13.9%, Cafayate I slightly prefer the unoaked Torrontés from this winery. There’s only 10% barrel fermentation, but it’s surprising how much it marks the wine. The fruit is crisp and aromatic, with fresh limes and some boiled sweets, fresh acidity and some baking spices from the oak barrels. Drink: 2014-16 2011 Bressia Monteagrelo Chardonnay 13.5%, Mendoza Walter Bressia’s blend of Chardonnay and Semillon is better than his straight Chardonnay, but this is still an attractive wine. Typically restrained, it’s subtly oaked, savoury and refreshing with 50% malolactic adding a creamy note to the mid palate. Drink: 2014-17 2012 Chakana Estate Selection Chardonnay 14%, Mendoza Made in a fairly rich, lees-influence style with sweet peach and apricot flavours, subtle oak and good texture this is a Chardonnay with lots of commercial appeal. Concentrated, yet also bright and refreshing, it’s an appealing modern Chardonnay. Drink: 2014-16 2012 Coquena Torrontés 13.3%, Calchaqui Valle A wine that comes from Tolombón, this is the cheaper line from San Pedro de Yacochuya. It’s a perfumed yet balanced style with crisp, lime and apple flavours that hint at Riesling and Albariño as much as Torrontés. Eminently drinkable. Drink: 2014-15 2013 Dominio del Plata Crios Torrontés 13.9%, Argentina Susana Balbo’s tasty Torrontés comes from the Uco Valley as well as Salta (hence its Argentina appellation) and it’s always a very good example of the variety with flavours of lychee, citrus fruit and orange zest and and tangy, refreshing finish. Drink: 2014-15 Page 65 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 90 2013 Doña Paula Riesling 12.5%, Gualtallary Rieslings are few and far between in the near-desert conditions of Argentina, but Doña Paula’s interpretation of the grape, made from two clones and grown at 1,300 metres, is the best by far. Fresh, floral and zesty with the acidity and the breed you expect from Riesling. Drink: 2014-17 2013 Finca Sophenia Altosur Sauvignon Blanc 12%, Tupungato Priced at a point where it competes with mass market New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, this is always a very reliable expression of the variety. Crunchy and fresh, with a hint of gunflint and pink grapefruit and a long, tangy finish. Just the thing on a hot Mendoza afternoon. Drink: 2014-16 2012 Lindaflor Chardonnay 15%, Uco Valley This is an ambitious, flavoursome Chardonnay from Marcelo Pelleriti, with classic, Burgundian-style notes of struck match, sweet caramel and toffee flavours and enough acidity and brightness to balance the high alcohol. Likely to appeal to the American market in particular. Drink: 2014-16 2013 O Fournier B Crux Sauvignon Blanc 12%, Uco Valley Unlike the A Crux release, there’s no oak on this Sauvignon Blanc from the Uco Valley sub-regions of El Cepillo and Vistaflores. It’s herbal and refreshing with tangy acidity and flavours of dill and gooseberry. Crunchy and well made. Drink: 2014-16 2013 Zuccardi Serie A Torrontés 14%, Salta The only Zuccardi wine that is sourced from outside Mendoza, this is vinified in Tolombón, close to Salta. It’s couched in quite a restrained style for Torrontés with zesty acidity and notes of fresh grapes and citrus fruit. Serie A stands for Argentina, by the way. Drink: 2014-16 Sweet 94 92 2010 Terrazas de los Andes Single Vineyard El Yaima Petit Manseng 14%, Mendoza Petit Manseng in Argentina? You bet. This is my favourite sweet wine in the country. It’s not overly sticky (with only 80 grams of residual sugar) but it’s perfectly balanced. Entirely barrel-fermented, it blends exotic fruit flavours of pineapple and guava with grapefruity acidity. Drink: 2014-17 2010 Dominio del Plata Late Harvest Torrontés 12.5%, Altamira A small percentage of this wine receives three months in new French oak. Otherwise, it’s the fruit that does the talking. Complex and sweet, with grapey, jasmine-like flavours, a touch of honey and spice, some tropical fruit succulence and refreshing acidity. Drink: 2014-15 Page 66 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report 91 90 2012 Salentein Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Plot No. 24 12.5%, Uco Valley Made for the first time in 2010, this is a botrytis-affected Sauvignon Blanc with 25% barrel fermentation and 120 grams of residual sugar. It’s exotic and suitably sweet with flavours of apricot and grapefruit and a hint of quince-like acidity. A tasty sticky. Drink: 2014-16 2013 Bodega del Desierto Late Harvest Viognier 10.7%, La Pampa French oak fermented and showing 120 grams of sugar, this pear and quince-scented dessert wine has elements of Riesling as much as Viognier, although the peachy fruit builds on the palate. The oak is well integrated here, the finish citrus peel fresh. Drink: 2014-16 Sparkling 91 90 2011 Zuccardi Alma 4 Pinot Rosé 12%, Uco Valley The Zuccardi sparkling wines (which is where Sebastián Zuccardi made his name) tend to get overlooked at the moment, but they are still very tasty. This pale, strawberry-like rosé shows appealing red fruits, fine bubbles and a dry, lingering finish. Drink: 2014-16 2011 Domaine Bousquet Brut 11.8%, Tupungato A blend of Chardonnay with 25% Pinot Noir, this is one of Argentina’s better sparkling wines. It has small bubbles, subtle red fruits, a taut mineral core from the Chardonnay and some creamy notes from lees ageing. Tangy and refreshing. Drink: 2014-16 Page 67 ©2014 Tim Atkin tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report ABV SCORE COLOUR VINTAGE Wine name Producer Complete scores A-Z Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec Uco Valley 2011 Red 95 14.5 Achaval Ferrer Finca Bella Vista Malbec Perdriel 2011 Red 96 14 Achaval Ferrer Finca Mirador Malbec Mendoza 2011 Red 92 14 Achaval Ferrer Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 92 14.5 Achaval Ferrer Quimera Mendoza 2011 Red 91 13.9 Achaval Ferrer Temporis Mendoza 2010 Red 94 14 Algodón Malbec/Bonarda Mendoza 2009 Red 86 14.6 Alpasión Malbec Crianza Mendoza 2012 Red 86 15.4 Alpasión Private Selection Mendoza 2011 Red 83 16.3 Alta Vista Alizarine Single Vineyard Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2011 Red 93 15 Alta Vista Alto Mendoza 2010 Red 92 15 Alta Vista Atemporal Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc Limited Edition Mendoza 2012 Red 90 14 Alta Vista Atemporal Malbec/Touriga Nacional Limited Edition Uco Valley 2012 Red 91 13.5 Alta Vista Malbec Terroir Selection Mendoza 2010 Red 90 15.5 Alta Vista Premium Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2012 Red 87 14.5 Alta Vista Premium Chardonnay Mendoza 2012 White 86 14 Alta Vista Premium Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 87 14.5 Alta Vista Premium Torrontés Salta 2013 White 92 14 Alta Vista Serenade Single Vineyard Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2011 Red 92 15 Alta Vista Temis Single Vineyard Malbec El Cepillo 2011 Red 91 15 Altocedro Malbec La Consulta 2012 Red 87 14.5 Altocedro Select La Consulta 2012 Red 86 14.8 Altos La Hormigas Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda Medrano 2012 Red 89 13.7 Altos La Hormigas Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda Reserve Medrano 2011 Red 91 14.3 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Appellation Altamira Altamira 2012 Red 96 14 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Appellation Gualtallary Gualtallary 2012 Red 96 13.9 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Appellation Vistaflores Vistaflores 2012 Red 96 14 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Clásico Luján de Cuyo 2012 Red 89 14.2 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Reserve Uco Valley 2012 Red 94 14.5 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Reserve Uco Valley 2011 Red 93 14.5 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Terroir Mendoza 2011 Red 92 14.5 Altos Las Hormigas Single Vineyard Malbec Vistaflores 2011 Red 94 14.5 Amalaya Gran Corte Cafayate 2012 Red 92 14 Amalaya Tinto de Corte Cafayate 2012 Red 91 14 Amalaya White Blend Cafayate 2013 White 90 13.5 Andeluna Altitud Cabernet Sauvignon Tupungato 2011 Red 91 14 Andeluna Altitud Chardonnay Tupungato 2012 White 91 14.5 Andeluna Altitud Malbec Tupungato 2011 Red 88 14.5 Andeluna Cabernet Sauvignon Tupungato 2011 Red 87 13 Andeluna Malbec Tupungato 2012 Red 87 14 ©2014 Tim Atkin Page 68 ABV SCORE COLOUR VINTAGE Wine name Producer tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Andeluna Malbec Rosé Tupungato 2013 Rosé 86 13.5 Andeluna Pasionado Cabernet Franc Tupungato 2009 Red 93 15.2 Andeluna Pasionado Cuatro Cepas Tupungato 2008 Red 94 15 Andeluna Pasionado Malbec Mendoza 2008 Red 88 14.8 Andeluna Torrontés Uco Valley 2013 White 86 13.5 Anko Flor de Cardon Malbec Cafayate 2011 Red 90 13.5 Anko Torrontés Cafayate 2012 White 89 12.5 Argenceres Vertical XXI Mendoza 2013 Red 87 14.5 Atamisque Assemblage Mendoza 2009 Red 89 14.7 Belasco de Baquedano Swinto Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2011 Red 92 15.5 Benegas Lynch Meritage Mendoza 2007 Red 87 14.5 Benegas Sangiovese Mendoza 2008 Red 86 14.5 Benvenuto de la Serna Trisagio Uco Valley 2009 Red 87 14.5 Bodega Aleanna El Enemigo Malbec Mendoza 2010 Red 91 14 Bodega Aleanna Gran Enemigo Gualtallary 2009 Red 93 14.5 Bodega Aleanna Gran Enemigo Cabernet Franc Gualtallary 2010 Red 94 13.2 Bodega Aleanna Gran Enemigo Single Vineyard Agrelo 2010 Red 94 13 Bodega Atamisque Catalpa Chardonnay Uco Valley 2011 White 87 14.5 Bodega del Desierto 25 Chardonnay La Pampa 2012 White 87 14 Bodega del Desierto Cabernet Franc La Pampa 2011 Red 91 14 Bodega del Desierto Late Harvest Viognier La Pampa 2013 Sweet 90 10.7 Bodega del Desierto Pampa Blend La Pampa 2009 Red 88 14.8 Bodega del Desierto Pampa Malbec La Pampa 2009 Red 90 15.2 Bodega del Río Elorza Verum Cabernet Franc Río Negro 2011 Red 91 14 Bodega del Río Elorza Verum Chardonnay Río Negro 2012 White 87 14 Bodega del Río Elorza Verum Pinot Noir Río Negro 2012 Red 88 14 Bodega El Esteco Altimus Cafayate 2010 Red 92 15 Bodega El Esteco Chañar Punco Malbec Cafayate 2011 Red 91 15 Bodega El Esteco Ciclos Malbec Cafayate 2011 Red 89 14 Bodega El Esteco Ciclos Torrontés Cafayate 2013 White 91 14 Bodega El Esteco Don David Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Cafayate 2012 Red 92 14 Bodega El Esteco Don David Malbec Reserve Cafayate 2012 Red 91 14 Bodega El Esteco Don David Torrontés Reserve Cafayate 2013 White 90 13.9 Bodega Iaccarini Cavas Don Nicasio Bonarda San Rafael 2011 Red 91 14 Bressia Conjuro Mendoza 2008 Red 95 14.5 Bressia Lágrima Canela Uco Valley 2010 White 93 14.1 Bressia Monteagrelo Cabernet Franc Agrelo 2010 Red 94 14 Bressia Monteagrelo Cabernet Sauvignon Agrelo 2010 Red 89 14.5 Bressia Monteagrelo Chardonnay Mendoza 2011 White 90 13.5 Bressia Monteagrelo Malbec Agrelo 2011 Red 94 14.5 Bressia Monteagrelo Syrah Agrelo 2010 Red 89 14 Bressia Piel Negra Pinot Noir Uco Valley 2010 Red 88 14 Bressia Profundo Luján de Cuyo 2008 Red 95 14 Bressia Royale Brut Nature Mendoza 2012 Sparkling 87 12.5 Bressia Sylvestra Malbec Mendoza 2013 Red 88 14.5 Bressia Sylvestra Pinot Noir Rosé Mendoza 2013 Rosé 89 14 Bressia Sylvestra Sauvignon Blanc Mendoza 2013 White 86 13 Bressia Sylvestra Torrontés Cafayate 2013 White 88 13.5 Carinae Mendoza 2008 Red 86 15 ©2014 Tim Atkin Page 69 ABV SCORE COLOUR VINTAGE Wine name Producer tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Carmelo Patti Cabernet Sauvignon Luján de Cuyo 2005 Red 91 13.8 Carmelo Patti Gran Assemblage Luján de Cuyo 2004 Red 89 14 Carmelo Patti Malbec Mendoza 2008 Red 87 13.8 Caro Mendoza 2010 Red 90 15 Caro Amancaya Gran Reserva Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2011 Red 87 15 Caro Aruma Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 87 14 Casarena Jamilla's Vineyard Malbec Perdriel 2010 Red 94 14.9 Casarena Lauren's Vineyard Cabernet Franc Agrelo 2011 Red 92 14.7 Casarena Lauren's Vineyard Malbec Agrelo 2011 Red 95 14.9 Casarena Malbec Winemaker Selection Luján de Cuyo 2012 Red 88 14.5 Casarena Roble Mendoza 2012 Red 87 14.5 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2010 Red 90 14 Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay Mendoza 2012 White 91 14 Catena Alta Malbec Mendoza 2010 Red 91 14 Catena Chardonnay Tupungato 2012 White 89 13.5 Catena Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 88 13.5 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard Malbec Uco Valley 2010 Red 96 14 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay Uco Valley 2010 White 94 13 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Stones Chardonnay Uco Valley 2010 White 93 13 Catena Zapata Argentino Malbec Uco Valley 2010 Red 93 14 Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard Malbec La Consulta 2012 Red 93 14 Cavas del 23 Beviam Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Uco Valley 2012 Red 83 14.1 Cavas La Capilla Templum Gran Reserva Malbec Altamira 2010 Red 92 14 Chacra Barda Pinot Noir Patagonia 2012 Red 92 13.3 Chacra Cincuenta y Cinco Pinot Noir Río Negro 2012 Red 93 12.9 Chacra Pinot Treinta y Dos Pinot Noir Río Negro 2011 Red 94 13.7 Chakana Estate Ayni Malbec Uco Valley 2012 Red 92 14.5 Chakana Estate Bonarda Mendoza 2012 Red 89 14.5 Chakana Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2012 Red 89 14.5 Chakana Estate Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 90 14.5 Chakana Estate Selection Chardonnay Mendoza 2012 White 90 14 Chakana Estate Selection Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 91 14.5 Chakana Estate Selection Red Blend Mendoza 2012 Red 92 14.5 Chakana Estate Syrah Mendoza 2012 Red 90 14.5 Chakana Estate White Blend Mendoza 2012 White 89 14 Chaman La Consulta 2011 Red 89 13.9 Cheval des Andes Mendoza 2008 Red 93 14 Cheval des Andes Luján de Cuyo 2009 Red 91 14.5 Clos de Chacras Gran Estirpe Malbec Mendoza 2010 Red 88 14.5 Clos de los Siete Uco Valley 2011 Red 92 14.5 Colomé Auténtico Malbec Colomé 2010 Red 94 14.5 Colomé Estate Malbec Colomé 2011 Red 94 14.5 Colomé Torrontés Salta 2013 White 92 13.5 Coquena Malbec Calchaqui Valley 2012 Red 90 14.5 Coquena Torrontés Calchaqui Valley 2012 White 90 13.3 Cuarto Dominio Chento Vineyard Selection Uco Valley 2012 Red 84 13.9 Cuvelier de Los Andes Colección Uco Valley 2010 Red 93 14.5 Cuvelier de Los Andes Grand Vin Uco Valley 2008 Red 89 15 De Angeles Viña 1924 Single Vineyard Gran Malbec Vistalba 2011 Red 96 14.9 ©2014 Tim Atkin Page 70 ABV SCORE COLOUR VINTAGE Wine name Producer tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report DiamAndes de Uco Chardonnay Uco Valley 2012 White 91 14.5 DiamAndes de Uco Gran Reserva Uco Valley 2009 Red 90 14.5 DiamAndes Malbec Uco Valley 2011 Red 92 14.5 DiamAndes Viognier Uco Valley 2012 White 91 13.5 Domaine Bousquet Ameri Malbec Tupungato 2011 Red 90 15.5 Domaine Bousquet Brut Tupungato 2011 Sparkling 90 11.8 Domaine Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon Tupungato 2013 Red 88 14 Domaine Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Tupungato 2012 Red 91 14.5 Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay Grande Reserve Tupungato 2010 White 89 13.5 Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay Tupungato 2013 White 86 14 Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay Reserve Tupungato 2012 White 88 14 Domaine Bousquet Gaia Tupungato 2012 Red 90 15.5 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Tupungato 2013 Red 89 14.5 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Grande Reserve Tupungato 2011 Red 92 15.7 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Reserve Tupungato 2012 Red 90 14.5 Dominio del Plata Benmarco Expresivo Mendoza 2011 Red 90 14.5 Dominio del Plata Benmarco Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 90 14 Dominio del Plata Benmarco Torrontés Uco Valley 2013 White 93 14 Dominio del Plata Crios Limited Edition Red Blend Mendoza 2012 Red 89 13.9 Dominio del Plata Crios Malbec Mendoza 2013 Red 88 13.9 Dominio del Plata Crios Torrontés Argentina 2013 White 90 13.9 Dominio del Plata Late Harvest Torrontés Altamira 2010 Sweet 92 12.5 Dominio del Plata Nosotros Malbec Agrelo 2010 Red 93 14.5 Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Brioso Mendoza 2010 Red 92 14.3 Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Signature Cabernet Mendoza 2012 Red 91 14.3 Dominio del Plata Vaglio Argentina 2012 Red 90 14.4 Don Cristobal Triana Luján de Cuyo 2010 Red 87 14.5 Doña Paula 1100 San Carlos 2012 Red 94 14.1 Doña Paula Estate Black Edition Luján de Cuyo 2012 Red 92 14.1 Doña Paula Estate Chardonnay Uco Valley 2013 White 93 14.3 Doña Paula Estate Malbec Uco Valley 2012 Red 92 14 Doña Paula Los Indios Parcel Malbec Altamira 2010 Red 96 14 Doña Paula Riesling Gualtallary 2013 White 90 12.5 Doña Paula Sauvignon Blanc Tupungato 2013 White 92 13 El Porvenir de Cafayate Oak-Fermented Torrontés Cafayate 2013 White 92 13.5 El Porvenir de Cafayate Amauta Cafayate 2012 Red 92 14.5 El Porvenir de Cafayate Icon Cafayate 2011 Red 90 14.7 El Porvenir de Cafayate Laborum Malbec, Finca Río Seco Cafayate 2012 Red 94 14.5 El Porvenir de Cafayate Laborum Single Vineyard Torrontés Cafayate 2013 White 91 13.2 El Porvenir de Cafayate Single Vineyard Tannat Cafayate 2012 Red 87 14.5 Escorihuela 1884 Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Production Mendoza 2009 Red 87 15 Escorihuela 1884 Malbec Limited Production Mendoza 2009 Red 87 15 Escorihuela Don Miguel Malbec Mendoza 2008 Red 86 15 Escorihuela Gascón Pequeñas Producciones Barbera Mendoza 2009 Red 88 15 Escorihuela Gascón Pequeñas Produccíones Cabernet Franc Mendoza 2010 Red 85 15 Escorihuela Gascón Pequeñas Produccíones Chardonnay Mendoza 2012 White 93 13.9 Etchart Arnaldo B Cafayate 2010 Red 89 14.5 Etchart Cabernet Sauvignon Cafayate 2013 Red 86 14.5 Etchart Torrontés Cafayate 2012 White 88 13.5 ©2014 Tim Atkin Page 71 ABV SCORE COLOUR VINTAGE Wine name Producer tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Fabre Montmayou Chardonnay Reserva Mendoza 2013 White 86 14.5 Fabre Montmayou Grand Vin Vistalba 2010 Red 94 14.5 Fabre Montmayou Grande Réserve Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2011 Red 93 14.8 Fabre Montmayou Grande Réserve Malbec Mendoza 2011 Red 92 15 Fabre Montmayou Grande Réserve Merlot Río Negro 2011 Red 92 15 Familia Schroeder Alpataco Pinot Noir Neuquén 2012 Red 88 14 Familia Schroeder Alto Limay Pinot Noir Joven Neuquén 2011 Red 90 14 Familia Schroeder Alto Limay Pinot Noir Select Neuquén 2012 Red 91 14 Familia Schroeder Saurus Barrel Fermented Pinot Noir Neuquén 2012 Red 87 14.5 Familia Schroeder Saurus Barrel Fermented Malbec Neuquén 2012 Red 91 14.5 Fin del Mundo Malbec Neuquén 2010 Red 87 14.1 Fin del Mundo Pinot Noir Reserva Neuquén 2011 Red 86 14.3 Fin del Mundo Special Blend Neuquén 2008 Red 89 14 Finca 8 Reserva Malbec La Consulta 2009 Red 87 14 Finca Agostino Agostino Familia Mendoza 2012 White 91 13.7 Finca Decero A Mano Remolinos Vineyard Agrelo 2011 Red 92 14.5 Finca Decero Cabernet Sauvignon Remolinos Vineyard Agrelo 2010 Red 91 14.3 Finca Decero Malbec Remolinos Vineyard Agrelo 2011 Red 92 14.5 Finca Decero Petit Verdot Agrelo 2011 Red 91 14 Finca El Origen Phi Single Vineyard Vistaflores 2009 Red 93 15 Finca Flichman Dedicado Uco Valley 2011 Red 89 14.5 Finca La Celia Heritage Uco Valley 2011 Red 91 15 Finca La Luz Callejón del Crimen Gran Reserva Uco Valley 2010 Red 92 14 Finca Las Moras Finca Pedernal Malbec Pedernal 2011 Red 89 14.5 Finca Las Moras Gran Syrah San Juan 2010 Red 91 15 Finca Las Moras Mora Negra Pedernal 2010 Red 90 14.5 Finca Las Moras Paz San Juan 2011 Red 86 14 Finca Sophenia Altosur Cabernet Sauvignon Tupungato 2013 Red 85 14 Finca Sophenia Altosur Malbec Tupungato 2013 Red 86 14 Finca Sophenia Altosur Sauvignon Blanc Tupungato 2013 White 90 12 Finca Sophenia Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Tupungato 2012 Red 86 14 Finca Sophenia Reserve Malbec Tupungato 2012 Red 84 14.5 Finca Sophenia Sophenia 2 Tupungato 2012 White 88 13 Finca Sophenia Synthesis Malbec Tupungato 2011 Red 86 14.5 Finca Sophenia Synthesis Sauvignon Blanc Tupungato 2012 White 92 12 Finca Sophenia Synthesis The Blend Tupungato 2010 Red 88 14.5 Finca Sophenia Viognier Tupungato 2012 White 86 14.5 Fincas de la Juanita Juana del Sol Gran Reserva Malbec Mendoza 2010 Red 78 14 Flechas de los Andes Gran Corte Uco Valley 2010 Red 89 14.5 Gauchezco Oro Malbec Mendoza 2009 Red 92 14.2 Gimenez Riili Gran Familia Malbec Altamira 2010 Red 89 14.8 Gimenez Riili Gran Familia Syrah Limited Edition Uco Valley 2011 Red 91 14.5 Gimenez Riili Padres Dedicados Cabernet Franc Uco Valley 2012 Red 87 14.6 Graffigna Centenario Malbec Reserva San Juan 2010 Red 86 14.5 Graffigna Elevation Red Blend Reserve San Juan 2011 Red 86 14 Graffigna Torrontés Cafayate 2012 White 85 13.5 Hand of God Old Vine Malbec, Stolen Horse Vineyard Maipú 2010 Red 91 14.5 Hand of God, Sobremesa Vineyard Uco Valley 2010 Red 92 14.5 Humberto Canale Cabernet Franc Selección de Familia Río Negro 2010 Red 88 13.7 ©2014 Tim Atkin Page 72 ABV SCORE COLOUR VINTAGE Wine name Producer tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Humberto Canale Merlot Selección de Familia Río Negro 2011 Red 89 14 Humberto Canale Old Vineyard Pinot Noir Río Negro 2011 Red 90 13.5 Humberto Canale Old Vineyard Riesling Río Negro 2012 White 87 13.5 Kaikén Mai Malbec Mendoza 2008 Red 93 15 La Fracción Malbec Mendoza 2011 Red 87 14 La Giostra del Vino Bacán Malbec Mendoza 2010 Red 86 13.5 La Giostra del Vino Bacán Malbec Reserva Agrelo 2011 Red 92 14.5 La Giostra del Vino Bacán Sauvignon Blanc Reserva Mendoza 2011 White 93 13 La Giostra del Vino Bacán Sauvignon Blanc Reserva Vistaflores 2012 White 92 13 La Giostra del Vino Bacán White Blend Mendoza 2012 White 89 14 La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2011 Red 88 14 La Mascota Malbec Mendoza 2011 Red 87 14.5 La Mascota Unanime Mendoza 2009 Red 86 14.5 La Revancha, La Gran Revancha Mendoza 2011 Red 92 14.5 La Revancha, La Primera Revancha Mendoza 2001 Red 90 14.3 Lagarde Blanc de Noir Mendoza 2013 Rosé 88 13 Lagarde Chardonnay Mendoza 2013 White 86 14.3 Lagarde Henry Gran Guarda No. 1 Mendoza 2009 Red 93 14 Lagarde Malbec Mendoza 2011 Red 92 14.4 Lagarde Primeras Viñas Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2011 Red 93 14 Lagarde Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc Mendoza 2011 Red 90 14.1 Lagarde Viognier Mendoza 2013 White 87 14.3 Lariviere Yturbe Partida Limitada Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2010 Red 93 14.7 Lindaflor Chardonnay Uco Valley 2012 White 90 15 Lindaflor Malbec Uco Valley 2009 Red 93 16 Luigi Bosca De Sangre Mendoza 2010 Red 91 13.5 Luigi Bosca Finca Los Nobles Malbec Mendoza 2010 Red 92 13 Luigi Bosca Grand Pinot Noir La Consulta 2012 Red 88 13.5 Luigi Bosca Icono Mendoza 2009 Red 94 14 Luigi Bosca Malbec Uco Valley 2011 Red 92 13 Luigi Bosca Malbec/Petit Verdot/Tannat Mendoza 2011 Red 88 14.5 Luigi Bosca Riesling Las Compuertas 2012 White 87 13 Manos Negras Atrevida Malbec Mendoza 2010 Red 89 14 Manos Negras Pinot Noir Neuquén 2011 Red 90 14 Manos Negras Quimay Malbec Neuquén 2011 Red 89 14 Manos Negras Red Soil Select Pinot Noir Neuquén 2010 Red 92 13.9 Manos Negras Zaha Cabernet Franc Altamira 2011 Red 90 14 Marcelo Pelleriti Cuvée Especial Uco Valley 2011 Red 89 15 Marcelo Pelleriti Malbec Reserva Uco Valley 2011 Red 92 14.5 Marcelo Pelleriti Selection Grand Reserve Malbec Uco Valley 2011 Red 89 14.5 Mariano di Paola Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 95 14.5 Mariflor Malbec Uco Valley 2011 Red 93 14.5 Masi Corbec Uco Valley 2010 Red 92 14.5 Masi Passo Doble Tupungato 2011 Red 90 13.5 Mater Vini Alteza Malbec Argentina 2010 Red 95 14 Mauricio Lorca Gran Lorca Poético Uco Valley 2008 Red 89 14.5 Mauricio Lorca Gran Lorca Poético Cabernet Franc Uco Valley 2009 Red 88 14.5 Mauricio Lorca Opalo Malbec Uco Valley 2010 Red 88 14.5 Mauricio Lorca Poético Syrah Uco Valley 2008 Red 87 14.5 ©2014 Tim Atkin Page 73 ABV SCORE COLOUR VINTAGE Wine name Producer tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Mauricio Lorca Sin Madera Blend Uco Valley 2009 Red 87 14.5 Mauricio Lorca Viognier Uco Valley 2012 White 84 14 Melipal Cabernet Franc Mendoza 2012 Red 91 14 Melipal Family Signature Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2010 Red 86 16 Mendel Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2010 Red 92 14.5 Mendel Finca Remota Malbec Altamira 2011 Red 94 14.4 Mendel Malbec Mendoza 2011 Red 91 14.3 Mendel Semillon Mendoza 2013 White 93 13.3 Mendel Unus Mendoza 2011 Red 95 14.5 Mendel Unus Mendoza 2010 Red 94 14.5 Mendoza Vineyards Gran Reserva Malbec Mendoza 2010 Red 88 14 Michelini Brothers Super Uco Uco valley 2011 Red 93 14.3 Montechez Edición Limitada Malbec Mendoza 2011 Red 93 14.5 Monteviejo Petite Fleur Uco Valley 2010 Red 90 14.5 Mythic Estate Blanc de Blancs Gran Reserva Mendoza 2012 White 88 14.5 Mythic Estate Icono Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2011 Red 91 14.7 Nicolás Catena Zapata Mendoza 2010 Red 96 13.7 Nieto Senetiner Cadus Single Vineyard Bonarda Alto Agrelo 2012 Red 89 14.3 Nieto Senetiner Cadus Single Vineyard Finca Las Tortugas Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2010 Red 92 14.9 Noemía 2 Río Negro 2010 Red 93 12.5 Noemía A Lisa Malbec Río Negro 2012 Red 89 13.5 Noemía J Alberto Malbec Río Negro 2012 Red 94 13.5 Noemía Malbec Río Negro 2011 Red 95 14 Norton Cosecha Especial Brut Mendoza 2010 Sparkling 87 12.9 Norton Gernot Langes Mendoza 2008 Red 95 15.2 Norton Lote A109 Malbec Agrelo 2009 Red 94 14.9 Norton Lote L109 Malbec Mendoza 2009 Red 92 14.8 Norton Lote LC109 Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2009 Red 92 14.9 Norton Perdriel Colección Cabernet Sauvignon Perdriel 2010 Red 89 14.5 Norton Perdriel Colección Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2010 Red 88 14.5 Norton Perdriel Colección Sauvignon Blanc Perdriel 2013 White 91 12.7 Norton Perdriel Extra Brut Mendoza NV Sparkling 87 12.7 Norton Perdriel Vineyard Selection Perdriel 2007 Red 89 14.8 Norton Privada Mendoza 2011 Red 91 14.5 Norton Privada Malbec Mendoza 2010 Red 93 14.5 Norton Winemaker's Reserve Malbec Mendoza 2011 Red 90 14.4 NQN Malma Universo Blend Neuquén 2009 Red 87 14.5 NQN Malma Universo Malbec Neuquén 2009 Red 85 14.3 NQN Pinot Noir Reserva de la Familia Neuquén 2011 Red 83 14.3 O Fournier Uco Valley 2006 Red 87 14.5 O Fournier A Crux Blend Uco Valley 2007 Red 94 15 O Fournier A Crux Malbec Uco Valley 2009 Red 89 15 O Fournier A Crux Sauvignon Blanc Uco Valley 2011 White 92 13 O Fournier B Crux Blend Uco Valley 2009 Red 91 15 O Fournier B Crux Sauvignon Blanc Uco Valley 2013 White 90 12 O Fournier Malbec Uco Valley 2007 Red 88 15 O Fournier Urban Uco Chardonnay Uco Valley 2013 White 87 13.5 O Fournier Urban Uco Malbec Uco Valley 2013 Red 87 14.5 O Fournier Urban Uco Sauvignon Blanc Uco Valley 2011 White 86 12 ©2014 Tim Atkin Page 74 ABV SCORE COLOUR VINTAGE Wine name Producer tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report O Fournier Urban Uco Tempranillo Uco Valley 2013 Red 87 14.5 O Fournier Urban Uco Tempranillo/Malbec Uco Valley 2013 Red 90 14.5 O Fournier Urban Uco Torrontés Salta 2013 White 89 13.5 Ojo de Vino Malo Agrelo 2011 Red 93 15.3 Pascal Toso Magdalena Toso Mendoza 2010 Red 91 14.5 Passionate Wine Demente Gualtallary 2011 Red 92 13.9 Passionate Wine Diverso Merlot Tupungato 2012 Red 90 11 Passionate Wine Diverso Syrah Gualtallary 2012 Red 91 11 Passionate Wine Eterno Retorno Bonarda Tupungato 2012 Red 87 13.7 Passionate Wine Inéditos Bonarda Uco Valley 2013 Red 92 11 Passionate Wine Malbon Tupungato 2011 Red 90 13.5 Passionate Wine Montesco Agua de Roca Sauvignon Blanc Tupungato 2013 White 92 9.5 Passionate Wine Montesco Bonarda Tupungato 2012 Red 86 14 Passionate Wine Montesco Parral Tupungato 2012 Red 92 14 Passionate Wine Montesco Punta Negra Pinot Noir Tupungato 2012 Red 92 12.8 Passionate Wine Montesco Verdes Cobardes Tupungato 2013 White 91 11 Passionate Wine Paso del Sapo Vino de Lejos Chardonnay Chubut 2010 White 92 12.5 Patritti Primogénito Blend Neuquén 2009 Red 87 13.9 Patritti Primogénito Cabernet Sauvignon Neuquén 2008 Red 86 14 Patritti Primogénito Chardonnay Neuquén 2013 White 86 13.5 Patritti Primogénito Malbec Neuquén 2008 Red 85 14.1 Patritti Primogénito Merlot Neuquén 2011 Red 87 14.3 Patritti Primogénito Pinot Noir Neuquén 2009 Red 86 13.5 Per Se Iubileus Malbec Gualtallary 2012 Red 94 14.5 Per Se La Craie Gualtallary 2012 Red 95 14 Piedra Negra Chacayes Uco Valley 2008 Red 94 15.1 Piedra Negra Malbec Reserva Mendoza 2008 Red 93 13.9 Proemio Wines Icon Mendoza 2009 Red 88 14.6 Pulenta Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Agrelo 2011 Red 92 14.5 Pulenta Estate Chardonnay Agrelo 2012 White 87 13.5 Pulenta Estate Gran Cabernet Franc Agrelo 2010 Red 94 14.5 Pulenta Estate Gran Corte Mendoza 2009 Red 94 14.5 Pulenta Estate Gran Malbec Mendoza 2010 Red 93 14.5 Pulenta Estate La Flor Malbec Rosé Mendoza 2013 Rosé 86 13 Pulenta Estate La Flor Sauvignon Blanc Uco Valley 2013 White 86 13 Pulenta Estate Malbec Mendoza 2010 Red 90 14.5 Pulenta Estate Merlot Agrelo 2008 Red 90 14.5 Pulenta Estate Pinot Gris Agrelo 2013 White 87 13.5 Raffy Grande Réserve Luján de Cuyo 2010 Red 82 15 Rebelión Malbec Uco Valley 2012 Red 87 14 Recuerdo Gran Corte Uco Valley 2011 Red 94 14.7 Recuerdo Gran Corte Uco Valley 2012 Red 88 15 Recuerdo Malbec Uco Valley 2012 Red 87 14.2 Recuerdo Malbec Aliado Reserva Malbec Uco Valley 2012 Red 87 14.5 Renacer Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2008 Red 90 15.2 Riccitelli República del Malbec Vistalba 2011 Red 91 15 Riccitelli The Apple Doesn't Fall Far From The Tree Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 90 14.5 Riccitelli Vineyard Selection Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 90 14.5 Riglos Gran Cabernet Franc Tupungato 2011 Red 93 15 ©2014 Tim Atkin Page 75 ABV SCORE COLOUR VINTAGE Wine name Producer tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Riglos Gran Cabernet Sauvignon Tupungato 2011 Red 93 15 Riglos Gran Corte Tupungato 2011 Red 95 15 Riglos Gran Malbec Tupungato 2011 Red 92 15 RJ Viñedos Distinto Mendoza 2005 Red 75 14.5 Ruca Malen Kinien Cabernet Sauvignon Uco Valley 2008 Red 88 14.3 Ruca Malen Kinien Malbec Uco Valley 2009 Red 89 14.5 Ruca Malen Petit Verdot Mendoza 2011 Red 89 14.3 Rutini Antología Malbec XXVIII Mendoza 2009 Red 90 14.3 Rutini Antología Merlot XXIX Mendoza 2009 Red 91 14.5 Rutini Antología Pinot Noir XXXVI Mendoza 2010 Red 93 14.3 Rutini Apartado Gran Malbec Uco Valley 2010 Red 94 14.5 Rutini Cabernet Sauvignon Tupungato 2011 Red 91 14 Rutini Chardonnay Mendoza 2012 White 94 13.6 Rutini Encuentro Barrel Blend Mendoza 2010 Red 94 14.5 Rutini Malbec Mendoza 2011 Red 92 13.9 Rutini Pinot Noir Mendoza 2011 Red 91 14 Rutini Syrah Mendoza 2011 Red 90 13.4 Salentein Brut Nature NV Uco Valley NV Sparkling 88 12.5 Salentein Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Selection Uco Valley 2012 Red 87 14 Salentein Chardonay Reserve Barrel Selection Uco Valley 2012 White 89 13.5 Salentein Malbec Barrel Selection Uco Valley 2010 Red 89 14 Salentein Merlot Reserve Uco Valley 2011 Red 89 14 Salentein Numina Cabernet Franc Uco Valley 2011 Red 93 14.5 Salentein Numina Gran Corte, Spirit Vineyard Uco Valley 2011 Red 94 14.5 Salentein Numina Malbec Uco Valley 2011 Red 91 14.5 Salentein Numina Syrah Uco Valley 2011 Red 89 14.5 Salentein Pinot Noir Reserve Uco Valley 2011 Red 89 14.5 Salentein Portillo Malbec Uco Valley 2012 Red 87 14 Salentein Portillo Sauvignon Blanc Uco Valley 2013 White 84 13.5 Salentein Primus Chardonnay Uco Valley 2011 White 93 14 Salentein Primus Malbec Uco Valley 2010 Red 91 14.5 Salentein Primus Pinot Noir Uco Valley 2011 Red 94 14 Salentein Sauvignon Blanc Reserve Uco Valley 2013 White 89 13.5 Salentein Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Plot No. 2 Uco Valley 2011 White 94 13.5 Salentein Single Vineyard Malbec, Plot No. 21 Uco Valley 2010 Red 92 14.5 Salentein Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Plot No. 1 Uco Valley 2011 Red 94 14 Salentein Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Plot No. 24 Uco Valley 2012 Sweet 91 12.5 San Pedro de Yacochuya Cafayate 2011 Red 93 15.4 Santa Faustina Malbec Mendoza 2010 Red 85 13.5 Santa Faustina Tardío Noble Mendoza 2008 Sweet 85 12 Santa Faustina Tempranillo Mendoza 2012 Red 86 14 Septima Gran Reserva Mendoza 2010 Red 87 14.5 Sottano Judas Malbec Perdriel 2011 Red 88 15.3 Sottano Reserva de Familia Malbec Lujan de Cuyo 2010 Red 88 14.9 Structura Ultra Uco Valley 2009 Red 85 15 Tapiz Black Tears Malbec Uco Valley 2009 Red 89 14.5 Terrazas de los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2011 Red 91 14 Terrazas de los Andes Chardonnay Reserva Mendoza 2012 White 89 13.5 Terrazas de los Andes Malbec Mendoza 2011 Red 91 14 ©2014 Tim Atkin Page 76 ABV SCORE COLOUR VINTAGE Wine name Producer tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Terrazas de los Andes Petit Manseng Mendoza 2010 Sweet 94 14 Terrazas de los Andes Single Parcel Los Castaños Malbec Altamira 2009 Red 93 14.5 Terrazas de los Andes Single Parcel Los Cerezos Malbec Las Compuertas 2009 Red 91 15 Terrazas de los Andes Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Perdriel 2010 Red 93 14.5 Terrazas de los Andes Single Vineyard Malbec Las Compuertas 2010 Red 93 15 Terrazas de los Andes Torrontés Salta 2013 White 89 13.5 TintoNegro 1955 Vineyard Malbec La Consulta 2011 Red 92 14 TintoNegro Finca La Escuela Malbec Altamira 2011 Red 92 14 Trapiche Broquel Bonarda Mendoza 2012 Red 89 14 Trapiche Broquel Cabernet Franc Mendoza 2012 Red 86 14 Trapiche Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2012 Red 88 14 Trapiche Broquel Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 89 14.5 Trapiche Broquel Petit Verdot Mendoza 2012 Red 91 14 Trapiche Broquel Pinot Noir Agrelo 2013 Red 90 14.5 Trapiche Broquel Torrontés Cafayate 2013 White 91 13.5 Trapiche Extravaganza Blend Mendoza 2013 White 86 13.5 Trapiche Extravaganza Red Blend Mendoza 2013 Red 82 13.5 Trapiche Finca la Palmas Malbec Gran Reserva Mendoza 2011 Red 90 14.5 Trapiche Finca Las Palmas Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva Mendoza 2011 Red 88 14.5 Trapiche Finca Las Palmas Grand Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley 2012 White 91 14 Trapiche Gran Medalla Cabernet Sauvignon Uco Valley 2011 Red 92 14.5 Trapiche Gran Medalla Malbec Uco Valley 2011 Red 92 14.5 Trapiche Iscay Mendoza 2009 Red 95 14.5 Trapiche Iscay Syrah/Viognier Mendoza 2009 Red 92 14.5 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Ambrosia Gualtallary 2010 Red 97 15.5 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Orellana de Escobar La Consulta 2010 Red 95 15.5 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Suarez Lastra Altamira 2010 Red 95 15.5 Trapiche Pure Malbec Uco Valley 2013 Red 88 14.5 Trapiche Terroir Series Malbec Cristina y Bibiana Colettto Tupungato 2011 Red 96 15 Tres 14 Imperfecto Gualtallary 2011 Red 96 14.7 Tres 14 Tinto de Garage Lunlunta 2011 Red 92 14.5 Trivento Eolo Malbec Uco Valley 2010 Red 87 14 Trumpeter Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2012 Red 88 13.6 Trumpeter Chardonnay Tupungato 2013 White 91 13.7 Trumpeter Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 90 13.6 Trumpeter Reserve Malbec Mendoza 2011 Red 91 14 Val de Flores Uco Valley 2007 Red 91 15 Valle de la Puerta La Puerta Malbec Reserva Famatina Valley 2011 Red 90 14 Viña Alicia Brote Negro Malbec Mendoza 2009 Red 95 14 Viña Alicia Cuarzo Lunlunta 2007 Red 93 14 Viña Alicia Morena Luján de Cuyo 2007 Red 93 13.8 Viña Alicia Nebbiolo Luján de Cuyo 2007 Red 93 15 Viña Alicia Paso de Piedra Cabernet Sauvignon Luján de Cuyo 2007 Red 91 14 Viña Alicia Paso de Piedra Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2009 Red 92 14.5 Viña Cobos Bramare Cabernet Sauvignon Luján de Cuyo 2011 Red 89 14.8 Viña Cobos Bramare Malbec Uco Valley 2011 Red 92 14.8 Viña Cobos Bramare Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2011 Red 91 14.7 Viña Cobos Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2011 Red 91 14.7 Viña Cobos Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Chardonnay Mendoza 2012 White 92 14.4 ©2014 Tim Atkin Page 77 ABV SCORE COLOUR VINTAGE Wine name Producer tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Viña Cobos Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Malbec Perdriel 2011 Red 93 14.7 Viña Cobos Bramare Rebon Vineyard Malbec La Consulta 2011 Red 93 14.9 Viña Cobos Felino Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2012 Red 90 14.3 Viña Cobos Felino Chardonnay Mendoza 2013 White 86 14 Viña Cobos Felino Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 89 14.3 Viña Cobos Felino Merlot Mendoza 2012 Red 87 14.3 Viña Cobos Malbec Perdriel 2011 Red 96 14.9 Viña Cobos Volturno Marchiori Vineyard Mendoza 2011 Red 93 14.9 Viña Vida Malbec Gran Reserva Uco Valley 2011 Red 93 15 Viña Vida Petit Verdot Gran Reserva Uco Valley 2011 Red 93 14.4 Viñalba Diane Luján de Cuyo 2011 Red 90 15 Viñalba Malbec/Syrah Río Negro 2012 Red 89 14.5 Viñalba Reservado Cuvée Couture Uco Valley 2012 Red 90 14.5 Viñalba Reservado Malbec Uco Valley 2012 Red 91 14.5 Viñalba Reserve 50/50 Uco Valley 2012 Red 91 14.5 Viñalba Rosé Mendoza 2013 Rosé 87 13 Viñalba Torrontés Selección Uco Valley 2013 White 89 13.5 Vines of Mendoza Michael Evans Malbec/Cabernet Franc Uco Valley 2012 Red 89 14.9 Vinorum Victorio Altieri Gran Reserva Malbec Mendoza 2011 Red 93 14 Yacochuya Malbec Salta 2010 Red 87 16 Zemlia Himno Malbec Uco Valley 2010 Red 87 13.7 Zorzal Climax Malbec Gualtallary 2011 Red 92 14.3 Zorzal Climax Owner's Blend Tupungato 2010 Red 89 14.5 Zorzal Eggo Malbec Gualtallary 2012 Red 92 14.5 Zorzal Eggo Pinot Noir Tupungato 2013 Red 94 14.5 Zorzal Eggo Sauvignon Blanc Tupungato 2013 White 93 12 Zorzal Field Blend Uco Valley 2011 Red 89 14.5 Zorzal Field Blend Reserve Gualtallary 2009 Red 92 14.1 Zorzal Gran Terroir Malbec Gualtallary 2011 Red 91 14 Zorzal Gran Terroir Pinot Noir Tupungato 2012 Red 93 14 Zorzal Piantao Tupungato 2011 Red 93 14.5 Zorzal Porfiado Pinot Noir Gualtallary 2010 Red 91 13 Zorzal Terroir Unico Malbec Gualtallary 2013 Red 92 14 Zorzal Terroir Unico Pinot Noir Tupungato 2013 Red 89 14 Zorzal Terroir Unico Sauvignon Blanc Tupungato 2013 White 91 11.8 Zuccardi Alma 4 Pinot Rosé Uco Valley 2011 Sparkling 91 12 Zuccardi Aluvional La Consulta 2011 Red 97 15 Zuccardi Aluvional Altamira 2011 Red 96 14 Zuccardi Emma Zuccardi Bonarda Mendoza 2012 Red 93 13.5 Zuccardi Finca Los Membrillos La Consulta 2011 Red 93 14.5 Zuccardi Q Cabernet Sauvignon Uco Valley 2011 Red 90 14.5 Zuccardi Q Malbec Mendoza 2012 Red 92 14.5 Zuccardi Q Tempranillo Mendoza 2011 Red 90 14 Zuccardi Serie A Malbec Uco Valley 2012 Red 90 14.5 Zuccardi Serie A Torrontés Salta 2013 White 90 14 Zuccardi Tito Uco Valley 2012 Red 94 14 Zuccardi Tito Uco Valley 2011 Red 93 14 Zuccardi Zeta Malbec Uco Valley 2010 Red 90 15 Zuccardi Zeta Malbec Uco Valley 2010 Red 90 15 ©2014 Tim Atkin Page 78 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Recommended restaurants Buenos Aires Aldo’s Vinoteca Francis Mallmann (1884) aldosvinoteca.com www.1884restaurante.com.ar Aramburu María Antonieta www.arambururesto.com.ar www.mariaantonietaresto.com.ar Casa Umare Nadia O.F. www.casaumare.com www.nadiaof.com Don Julio Siete Cocinas + 54 11 4832 6058 www.sietecocinas.com.ar El Obrero www.bodegonelobrero.com.ar Fierro Hotel Neuquén www.fierrohotel.com Familia Schroeder Four Seasons (Elena Restaurant) www.saurus.com.ar www.fourseasons.com/buenosaires La Toscana La Brigada www.latoscanarestaurante.com www.parrillalabrigada.com.ar La Cabrera www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar Salta (Cafayate) Oviedo Terruño www.oviedoresto.com.ar www.terruno.todowebsalta.com.ar Sucre www.sucrerestaurant.com.ar Uco Valley Tegui www.tegui.com.ar Andeluna Unik www.andeluna.com.ar www.unik.pro El Cielo + 54 (0) 2622 470814 Mendoza Ilo Azafrán La Juntada www.azafranresto.com www.almacendeuco.com Bodega Ruca Malen La Posada del Jamón www.bodegarucamalen.com www.laposadadeljamon.com.ar Casa del Visitante (Familia Zuccardi) Posada Salentein www.casadelvisitante.com www.bodegassalentein.com Osadía de Crear (Dominio del Plata) The Vines of Mendoza www.dominiodelplata.com.ar www.vinesofmendoza.com Florentino Bistro Urban (O Fournier) +54 0261 4649077 www.ofournier.com + 54 (0) 2622 488323 Page 79 tim atkin argentina 2014 Special Report Further reading These are all books about Argentina that I have found both interesting and useful on my travels. Andes by Michael Jacobs (Granta) Buenos Aires: A Cultural and Literary History by Jason Wilson (Signal Books) Descorchados 2013: Guía de Vinos de Argentina by Patricio Tapia (Simposium) In Patagonia by Bruce Chatwin (Picador) The Penguin History of Latin America by Edwin Williamson (Penguin) The Vineyard at the End of the World by Ian Mount (WW Norton) Vino Argentino by Laura Catena (Chronicle Books) I would also recommend the website of Wines of Argentina (www.winesofargentina.org) for information on wineries, vintages, vineyard plantings and other news Page 80 For tasting notes, articles, music and wine matches & more special reports, go to www.timatkin.com. Sign up to receive my newsletter. You can also follow me on twitter @timatkin All images and written content 2014 © Tim Atkin Sub-editing by Sue Wixley Layout by Jonathan McKay I would like to acknowledge the help and support of Wines of Argentina in funding a trip to Argentina in November 2013. I would also like to think María Laura Ortiz of Winifera for organising my tastings in Mendoza: a friendly, no nonsense professional as well as a connoisseur of Argentinean wines.
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