Adventure in Arcadia Graham Wood spends an adrenaline-raising Sunday hurtling down icy rapids in a floating ‘hot-dog’ with a Cretan named Frank With Frank flapping rather than paddling and my steering somewhat rudderless we – well, I – fell at the first hurdle, spinning around a rock with yours truly ending up in the river With its stunning landscapes, ancient ruins and sprawling olive groves, the Arcadia region of the Peloponnese showcases some of Greece’s most spectacular natural beauty. It is also home to the Loussios river, or ‘The Wash’, where Zeus himself was said to have bathed, a body of water which boasts some of Greece’s best opportunities for an increasingly popular outdoor sport – rafting. Rafting activities operate in Arcadia all year round, but the ideal time to experience the unique thrill of hurtling down the crisp, cool waters of the Loussios is from November to June, when water levels are at their highest. Rivers are rated on a points system from 1 to 6, the latter being the most difficult. The Loussios is rated between 2 and 3, which makes it perfect for novices. Several companies offer rafting and other activities in the area, but I chose the aptly named Peripeteia (‘adventure’ in Greek). The company provide all the necessary clothing and equipment, including wetsuits, spray jackets, paddles, helmets and life jackets, and facilities at the base camp include changing rooms, showers and a roaring fireplace, so all you need to bring is your swimsuit, a towel and a pair of old trainers – and your sense of adventure. On a gloriously sunny Sunday afternoon, Frankgiskos (my good friend from Crete) and I arrived at Peripeteia’s headquarters in Karytainia – a charming mountain village 50km from Arcadia’s capital Tripoli – ready to crank up our adrenaline levels. After clambering into the back of a Land Rover with two other pairs of rafting novices, we embarked on a bumpy but enjoyable ride down to the ‘put-in’ point. A quick but precise lesson on the riverbank and then in the water followed, briefing us on the directions and virtues of paddling and navigating the boat, as well as the commands to listen out for. Typically, rafts hold six people plus a ‘paddle captain’ – a trained rafting instructor – so it is perfect if you want to enjoy the experience with a group of friends. But if there are just two of you, as in our case, the inflatable two-seater dubbed a ‘hot-dog’ is the ideal option. For those who want to go it alone, meanwhile, there is the lonely mono-raft. With my vast experience of one day on a standard raft, I plonked myself at the back of our hot-dog, nominating myself as the brains/steering expert while giving Frank the hard work up-front with most of the paddling. What a mistake that turned out to be! If the gentle cruise down the slower-moving current in the early stages gave us the opportunity to take in some breathtaking scenery, then the first set of rapids brought the first taste of excitement – and considerable mouthfuls of fresh water. With Frank flapping rather than paddling and my steering somewhat rudderless we – well, I – fell at the first hurdle, spinning around a rock with yours truly ending up in the river. The Loussios is renowned for its cold temperatures, but my dip was more refreshing than intimidating, and with the help of our guide I was soon back in the boat. Success breeds confidence and we began to thrive on each set of approaching rapids as we passed though without incident. One of the most exciting parts involves a drop over a huge rock and after negotiating it with the aplomb of seasoned professionals amid jubilant, masculine screams it was time for a quick jump into the river from a perfectly placed 4-metre rock followed by a break for coffee and biscuits. With caffeine and energy levels restored, it was back into the raft for the final stretch. Now it was Frank’s turn to enjoy a dip, after a challenging series of rapids saw him tossed overboard just before we reached the ‘take-out’ point, where our adventure came to an end after an immensely enjoyable experience. The day rounded off with hot chocolate in front of the Peripeteia fireplace while we poured over the photographs of our day’s exploits. Not a bad way to spend a winter afternoon. Rafting Hotspots Loussios River (Karytainia), Arcadia, Peloponnese – Between grades 2 and 3, the river runs through a densely vegetated gorge, flowing into the Alfeios River and taking in the spectacular Koukos bridge. Araxthos River (Ioannina), Sterea Ellada – Offering arguably the best rafting in the country, Arachtos has varying degrees of difficulty amid a backdrop of stunning scenery. Tavropos River (Evritania), Sterea Ellada – One of three rivers that run across the region of Evritania and empty into the artificial lake of Kremasta. With a difficulty level of grade 2 it is ideal for beginners. The descent also features the impressive arched stone bridge of Viniani. For more information on rafting trips see www.peripeteia.gr or www.outdoorsgreece.com
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