TRAVELLERS AND EXPATRIATES ALIKE. IT IS A BOOK FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THE REMARKABLE BUILDING HUNGARIANS ARE SO PROUD OF. EVEN A QUICK BROWSE THROUGH WILL REVEAL WHY HUNGARIANS LOVE AND ADMIRE IT SO MUCH. THE AUTHORS – AN URBAN HISTORIAN AND AN ARCHITECT – HOPE THAT READERS WILL COME TO FEEL THE SAME WAY. THIS BOOK ASPIRES TO SHARE THE OBVIOUS CHARMS AND HIDDEN SECRETS OF THE PARLIAMENT BUILDING ILLUSTRATING THEM WITH 65 ARCHIVE PHOTOS, FOUR SPECIAL EXPLANATORY DRAWINGS AND 111 ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHS. THE PEOPLE WHO RUN AND MAINTAIN WHAT IS ONE OF THE LARGEST PUBLIC BUILDINGS IN THE WORLD ARE ALSO REMEMBERED. DEFYING ITS AGE, THE PARLIAMENT BUILDING WAS BUILT BETWEEN 1885 AND 1904, DURING A PERIOD OF HUNGARY’S HISTORY WHEN, ALTHOUGH STILL PART OF THE AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN MONARCHY, THE COUNTRY HAD ALREADY EMBARKED UPON THE ROAD TO INDEPENDENCE. THE PARLIAMENT ENCAPSULATES HUNGARY’S PAST. THE INSIDE OF THE BUILDING WAS FITTED WITH STATE-OF-THE-ART TECHNOLOGY – THE BEST THAT WAS AVAILABLE AT THE TIME – MAKING IT INTO A CURIOUS BLEND OF TRADITION AND INNOVATION FROM THE LATE 1890S. FASCINATING THOUGH THIS BOOK IS, NOTHING CAN COMPARE WITH A VISIT TO THE BUILDING ITSELF. THE BOOK BRIEFLY TOUCHES ON THE INCREDIBLY TURBULENT STORY OF THE SQUARE IN FRONT OF THE BUILDING. STATUES HAVE COME AND GONE EVEN IF MOST OF THEM HAVE RETURNED. HOPEFULLY, THIS VOLUME WILL NOT HAVE TO BE RE-WRITTEN IN THE COMING DECADES. THE REMARKABLE HUNGARIAN PARLIAMENT BUILDING THIS IS AN UNCONVENTIONAL BOOK FOR TOURISTS, ANDRÁS TÖRÖK TAMÁS WACHSLER THE REMARKABLE HUNGARIAN PARLIAMENT BUILDING Parliament Guide Books Series Editor Margit Kerekes This book has been published by The Directorate of Cultural Affairs of the Office of the Hungarian National Assembly Director István Bellavics Publishing coordinator Csaba Németh All rights reserved. Evidence of the publisher’s express, written permission is required for any and all copying, reproduction, or recording on any storage device. Issued by the Office of the National Assembly, publisher: György Such Designed by Balázs Vargha András Török Tamás Wachsler THE REMARKABLE HUNGARIAN PARLIAMENT BUILDING The Office of the National Assembly Budapest 2016 Revised by: János Pótó The authors were assisted in searching for archive photos by: Éva Dúzsi Adaptation of the Hungarian manuscript of the text: Szilvia Széll Adaptation of the text of the original Hungarian edition: Tamás Eiler, Zsuzsa Macskássy Translated into english: EDIMART English version revised by: ADRIAN HART Graphic design: Balázs Vargha, Stalker Studio Font: Gotham, Olsen, Didot Printed and bound by Dürer Printing House Ltd., in Gyula, in 2016 Executive manager: Viktor Fekete, Managing Director ISBN 978–615–5674–00–6 ISSN 2498-7980 Dedicated to the memory of Ilona Zámborszky librarian and historian (1904–1991) and Ferenc Vadas architectural historian (1958–2010) 6 T H E R E M A R K A B L E H U N G A R I A N PA R L I A M E N T B U I L D I N G TA B LE O F CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS 10 Introduction 13 AT FIRST GLANCE 15 Dimensions 18 Function 21 Style 23 Ornamentation 26 Order 31 HOW IT WAS BUILT 32 The Plot 34 The Decision and the Tender 39 Imre Steindl, DESIGNER, and builder 45 The Construction 51 A traditional Building with Modern Technology 57 THE PART OPEN TO THE PUBLIC 59 A Main Entrance Rarely Used 63 Stairways, lifts and Corridors 67 The Dome Hall and the Holy Crown 69 The Holy Crown 71 The Two Lounges 72 Gallery of Crafts 75 The Two Chambers 83 IN THE TEMPEST OF HISTORY 85 The Birth and Tribulations of the painting of ‘The Hungarian Conquest of the Carpathian Basin’ 7 89 A Lesson in History in Twenty-Four Pictures 94 THE PARLIAMENT BUILDING’S RESIDENTS 96 During and after the Siege of Budapest 99 THE PARLIAMENT BUILDING after 1945 100 8 1956 by the PARLIAMENT BUILDING and the Square 105 BEHIND CLOSED DOORS 107 Endless Corridors Adorned by Miksa Róth’s Windows 110 Thék and Jungfer, the Two ‘Master Craftsmen’ Industrialists 113 The Hunter’s Hall and its Painters 115 The Crown Guards 117 The Parliament Guards 118 Caretakers of the PARLIAMENT BUILDING 121 TRADITION AND INNOVATION 122 Lipótváros, Parliament District 125 The Statues on the Square Before 1945 131 The square After 1945 139 The Parliamentary Library 143 Exhibition Spaces at the Museum of the National Assembly 147 Kossuth Square statue minipaedia 148 APPENDIX 150 Photo Credits by Page 152 FURTHER READING IN LANGUAGES OTHER THAN HUNGARIAN T H E R E M A R K A B L E H U N G A R I A N PA R L I A M E N T B U I L D I N G TA B LE O F CONTENTS 9 Introduction A nyone seeing the Hungarian Parliament building for the first time will undoubt- period of tranquillit y in Hungar y’s turbu- ed ly be a m a zed. C h i ld ren a re genera l ly lent history. The independence lost centuries attracted by the building’s ‘fairytale’ charac- before seemed to be within reach again. Under ter, while adults are fascinated by its sheer the umbrella of the Habsburg Empire, in the scale. This huge, unique, ornate building was shade of the authority of a long-reigning king, designed by Imre Steindl (1839-1902) as a wor- Franz Joseph I (1848-1916), Hungary underwent thy expression of Hungarian statehood. significant development. In 1867, the dynasty The capital city of Hungary was established 10 The last third of the 19th century was a unique reached a compromise with Hungary, which in 1873 with the unification of three settle- had resisted the Austrians until that time; as ments – Pest, Buda and Óbuda. The founding a result the Austro-Hungarian Empire was fathers’ aim was to build a new, modern capital established and lasted until 1918. One part of city for Hungary that would have few rivals. It the confederation was formed by the Austrian was in the interests of both the developing city Empire, and the other by the Kingdom of Hun- and the country to have a large-scale Parlia- gary. In 1892, Budapest gained the status of ment building constructed. capital city, alongside Vienna. T H E R E M A R K A B L E H U N G A R I A N PA R L I A M E N T B U I L D I N G Introduction The view of the Danube is dominated by the Parliament’s skyline There are several buildings in Budapest that The building was constructed for what was then look much older than their actual age. All of the bicameral Parliament of a much larger coun- these buildings – the Basilica, Matthias Church, try than modern-day Hungary. Its huge presence the Fisherman’s Bastion, the old Royal Pal- provided a comforting sight for the residents of ace, and Vajdahunyad Castle in the City Park Hungary, a nation that lost World War I, with the (Városliget) – were built in a unique golden country reduced to a third of its size following the era, when a city was built that filled even the Treaty of Trianon (1920). From 1945 the National poorest inhabitants of the city with pride. Hun- Assembly became unicameral, and as Parlia- gary’s capital city attempted to compensate for ment reduced in size, other high public offices the grand buildings destroyed or never built moved to the Parliament building. In 1950, dur- during its glorious and difficult history – if you ing the Communist dictatorship, an illuminated will, its own Notre-Dame, St. Peter’s Basilica red star was attached to the top of the dome. In and Hradčany. The Parliament building is an 1989, the Republic of Hungary was proclaimed esteemed ‘imprint’ of this effort. and the star was removed from the building. The change in the political system brought freedom and independence for the country, and the Parliament building was again used in accordance with its original purpose from then on. The love and admiration of Hungarians for the Hungarian Parliament building has remained undiminished over the years, free from the influence of historical feuds or daily politics. 11 12 T H E R E M A R K A B L E H U N G A R I A N PA R L I A M E N T B U I L D I N G AT F IRST GLANCE AT FIRST GLANCE 13 14 T H E R E M A R K A B L E H U N G A R I A N PA R L I A M E N T B U I L D I N G AT F I R S T G L A N C E Dimensions T he figures quoted by the guides regarding numerals), 29 staircases and originally 13 lifts. the sheer scale of the Parliament build- On the exterior of the building there are 90 ing are likely to astonish visitors who go on a statues, with a further 152 inside the build- tour of the building: it is 265 metres long, 123 ing. In addition, there are lots of gargoyles and metres wide, and a maximum of 96 metres other monstrous shapes visible on the roof. high measured from pavement level. The length of the red carpets placed in the hall- The floor area of the building (with a total ways and on the stairs is about 3.5 kilometres. of ten courtyards) is 17,745 square metres and it is 473,000 cubic metres in volume. It has 27 entrances (traditionally marked by Roman 15 The PARLIAMENT BUILDING from Castle Hill 16 T H E R E M A R K A B L E H U N G A R I A N PA R L I A M E N T B U I L D I N G AT F I R S T G L A N C E The Parliament building is so tall that from the top of the dome almost the whole city can be seen There were a number of reasons why the ‘home’ Representatives had 438 members, while the of Hungarian legislation was conceived to be Chamber of Peers had 290. There were also so monumental by its designer. On the one a large number of staff to support them and hand, the scale of the building was intended run the building. Originally, the building had a as a demonstration of wealth; and on the other total of 691 rooms. Since then, there have been hand, the Parliament building had to be every many changes, during which the number of bit as impressive as the Royal Palace on the rooms has increased quite significantly, how- Buda side, and with other Parliament build- ever the plan is to convert spaces back to their ings in Europe. During the design phase, Buda original state. Castle was much smaller than it is today, and The Hungarian Parliament building is con- the decision to extend it to its current size was sidered one of the world’s largest public build- only taken when the Parliament building was ings and has four levels, which are traditionally already well under construction. called the basement, ground floor, mezzanine T he impressive size of t he Parliament and main floor. During the tour, visitors can building was also necessary because of the only view certain parts of the main floor, but large number of representatives. Until 1944, this book allows the reader a glimpse of the the National Assembly had t wo chambers, other levels as well. namely the Chamber of Representatives and the Chamber of Peers. During the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Chamber of 17 Function decoration Function Today’s architecture can no longer afford such extravagance: functional elements now take precedence over decorative details In addition to wanting to impress the world Since 1 January 2000, the Hungarian corona- with its splendour and ornaments, the tion regalia (the Holy Crown, the sceptre, the Parliament building was, after all, built to orb and the coronation sword) have also been perform a specific function. Three of its most kept in the Dome Hall. important sections can be clearly seen, even from a distance, between its turrets and but ber) Parliament since December 1944. For three tresses. years after the end of World War II, parliamen- The northern wing was designed for the tary life was vigorous, but the Chamber of Peers Chamber of Peers and the southern wing for the was not revived. This marked the beginning of Chamber of Representatives. Both sections con- the ‘expropriation’ of the Parliament building for sist of chambers, lounges, and numerous other other than legislative purposes, both the Office facilities, all connected to one another by long of the Prime Minister and the Head of State were corridors. severly damaged by the siege of Budapest. Dur- The ornate room located beneath the dome ing the Communist regime between 1949 and rising high in the middle serves as the main 1990 – which represented a fundamental belief venue for celebrations and events even now, in the power of unity, rather than in the principle but in the past, when the National Assembly of separation of powers – the National Assembly functioned with two separate chambers, the met for only a few days a year. joint sessions of the two Chambers were also held there. The very first session took place at the time of the 1896 millennium – when Hungary celebrated its 1,000th anniversary – in the then half-finished building. 18 Hungary has had a unicameral (single-cham- T H E R E M A R K A B L E H U N G A R I A N PA R L I A M E N T B U I L D I N G AT F I R S T G L A N C E Tourism was part of the life of the Parliament sentatives; later, in 1952, it was made publicly building to varying degrees, but never entirely available and since then it has been functioning went away. Even a museum was established as an open library, with anyone over 18 entitled there in 1929, although it closed down in 1949. to register as a member. The museum was reopened in 2014 (with new The building also functions as a venue for exhibits); the permanent exhibition, present- state functions, independent from parliamen- ing the history of the National Assemblies, can tary sessions. Traditionally, the most important be viewed in the northern part of Kossuth Lajos Hungarian state awards are bestowed in the Square, below the surface of the square. The Parliament building, and it is also where foreign museum also hosts an exhibition explaining heads of state and government are received as the history of the building, as well as the lapi- guests. darium and the 1956 memorial, opened in the former ventilation tunnels. The establishment of the Parliamentary Library in the Parliament building was included Every year there is a program called Christmas for Children in the Parliament building, at which disadvantaged primary school children are hosted by the Speaker for an entire day. in the initial plans. The establishment of the Of course, the basic function of the Parlia- library, to assist with legislative work, was ment building is to serve as a home for the leg- decided by the Chamber of Representatives at islature, and this concept heavily dominates the the end of the 1860s. Initially, it was hosted in building’s external appearance. the Hungarian National Museum. From 1873, it was maintained in the temporary building of the old Chamber of Representatives, and was only moved to its final location, the new Parliament building, in 1902. Originally it was a closed collection and research unit serving the repre- 19
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