Downloaded free at www.inyourpocket.com instant poznań November 2009 - February 2010 Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps POZNAŃ “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times November 2009 - February 2010 Made of Stone Poznań’s Statue Trail Inner City Zamek Inside the Imperial Castle N°24 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) poznan.inyourpocket.com Introducing Poznań While Poznań is not the first city on the travellers itinerary, it does have a habit of surprising all who end here. Crowded with churches and cobbles and colourful burgher houses, the old town is a collage of architectural styles and stuffed with delicate looking churches and esoteric museums. A major cultural and economic centre, it’s during this period when the city earns its reputation as a city of trade fairs. Its success as a fair centre stems partly from its location on a road that starts in Paris, ends in Moscow, and hits all the major cities in between. If you’re arriving during a trade fair then we sincerely hope you’ve booked your hotel in advance, else start getting used to sleeping under park benches. But it’s not all business. Over 60,000 people, some 10% of the population, purport to study at some institute or another, lending a defiantly young and vibrant atmosphere to the streets. Whether you’re here for business or leisure, you’ll find everything you need to the enjoy this city whether it be bars, clubs, restaurants or museums. ISSN 1642-2902 This mini-guide is designed to highlight the very best Poznan has to offer, with map references included where applicable. This is by no means a definitive guide to the city, but a scaled down version of our print publication Poznan In Your Pocket - pick up a copy of our 84-page guidebook to the city from points from tourist information points listed overleaf. All map references used in our guidebook are the same as those used on this miniguide to give you the most complete package of information to Poznan. And for the most up-to-date and comprehensive listings of events and what’s on in Poznan please check www.inyourpocket.com, where you will also find full contents of all our guides. Restaurants Bars Clubs Sights Hotels Transport Map and a whole host of other useful information 2 arrival & transport As a trade centre, Poznań has always been well connected with the rest of the world - its airport was the first in Poland. Travel within the city using buses and trams is efficient, fast and cheap; driving a car through the Old Town’s maze of one-way streets can be an ordeal however. By bus PKS Poznań Bus Station is found on ul. Towarowa directly to the South West of the old town. There are no 24hr exchange bureaus (kantors) though one operates from between 09:00 and 18:00 - it’s just outside the main building. You’ll find a PKO ATM (bankomat) right next to here. A Tourist Info point is located next to the ticket booths and they provide information and maps alone. Left luggage can be found in the main building with lockers costing 4 and 8zł per day, depending on the size you opt for. If you don’t trust the electronic lockers then leave your bags with the porter close to the toilet. Phone booths are found outside and phone cards can be bought from the newsagents. They’ll also be able to sell you SIM cards and Pre-Paid cards for your mobile. A few taxis will usually stand outside the main hall and a trip to the centre will cost around 10zł. If none are waiting then give a reliable operator like MPT a call (061 19191). Trams 6, 11 and 12 also run to the centre, as does bus 71. A 15 minute ticket costing 2.00zł is all that is needed. Validate it on boarding. Tickets are available from all kiosks. Main Bus Station (Główny Dworzec Autobusowy) F-4, ul. Towarowa 17/19, tel. (+48) 61 664 25 25, www. pks.poznan.pl. Q Ticket office Open 05:30 - 19:30, Sat 06:30-19:30, Sun 06:30-19:30. By car Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Driving around Poznań’s one way streets can be trying and as the Market Square is closed to traffic you may have to drive half way around the city to get from one side to the other. Most parking spaces in Poznań are paid and use either chip cards or coins. Chip cards are sold in some shops, cafés and from the parking authority SOP, and price paid depends on which parking zone you find yourself in. A combination of traffic jams and car crime make it advisable to leave your car in one of the guarded car parks dotted around the city and use the local transport system to get around. Guarded Parking E-3, ul. Roosvelta (Hotel Mercure). Guarded Parking G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36. By plane Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań Ławica) is 7km west of central Poznan. On arrival there are two exchange bureaus (kantors) to swap cash up, find them on the left hand side of the exit. If you’ve got your card on you then there are two PKO and one WBK cash machines (bankomats) found on the ground floor. A Tourist Info point can be found on the ground floor to the left of the check-in desk, and aside from stocking Poznań’s best guidebook, you can also purchase SIM cards as well as the usual array of tourist services. As with all sensible airports there is absolutely no left luggage facility. Calling home is no problem; find phone booths on either side of passport control - chip cards to operate them are available from every newsagent. They’ll also be able to sell you SIM cards and pre-pay cards for your mobile phone. Instant Poznań arrival & transport Getting to town is a cinch. Taxis stand right outside the entrance, though if none should be waiting call a reputable operator like MPT (tel. 061 19191) or Radio Lux Taxi for something more flashy (tel. 061 19662). On the whole you’ll pay around 25zł to get to town. Do be on the look out for cowboy drivers though, and only use taxis that are clearly marked with their company name and a list of prices. Cut costs by getting a bus. There is a stop right outside the entrance with two buses running from it: Line 59 (Airport-Bałtyk) heads to Rondo Kaponiera with journey time taking 30 minutes. It leaves every half an hour from around 05:00, the last one departing at approximately half past ten in the evening. Alternatively catch the Express Line L (Airport - Central Station). Journey time takes 20 minutes though there’s only one bus per hour (from 05:00 to 21:45). At other times the airport is connected to the central train station by a night bus (line 242), with one an hour from 23:29 till 03:29. Journey time should take 30 minutes. Single tickets valid for the 30 minute journey can be bought for 3.60zł to any kiosk or from the driver. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding. sells guides, maps and organises apartment rental. GlobTour also exchanges currency. If you are only staying for a couple of hours leave your luggage in the left luggage room (przechowalnia bagażu). It costs 2zł per item per day plus 1.5% of value in your bag; Open 06:00 to 22:30, Sat/Sun 06:00 to 19:00. Tram and bus tickets can be bought from the MPK kiosk on the right when leaving the train station building, open 06:00 - 20:00. sonal lines for up to ten stops (4.20zł/2.10zł), and over ten stops (7.00zł/3.50zł). Tickets for domestic trains can be bought at windows N°2-14 in the main hall and while most are open 24hrs you will find queues. Do allow yourself time to get your ticket although it is now possible to purchase tickets on board the train for a small fee. International tickets are sold at windows N°1 and 7 (open 08:00 - 19:00). You can return tickets at all windows, but talk to the information office first. Long term visitors can also buy a KOMkarta, an electronic card that is valid for 30 days. These can be purchased from one of the eleven MPK ticket points in the city, and then topped up in the same place, or at one of the Ruch kiosks you see around the town. Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań Ławica) ul. Bukowska 285, tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, Taxis to the main square will cost around 10-15zł, and there’s always a constant line standing outside. Bus 51 also runs to the city centre with buses leaving every 15 minutes. The service runs from 04:51 to 23:16. Buy a 15 minute ticket for the journey. They’ll set you back 2.00zł and can be purchased from newsagents. www.airport-poznan.com.pl. Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań Ławica) is 7km west of central Poznan. There are two exchange bureaus (kantors) to swap cash up, find them on the left hand side of the exit. If you’ve got your card on you then there are two PKO and one WBK cash machines (bankomats) found on the ground floor. A Tourist Info point can be found on the ground floor to the left of the check-in desk, and aside from stocking Poznań’s best guidebook, you can also purchase SIM cards as well as the usual array of tourist services. As with all sensible airports there is absolutely no left luggage facility. Calling home is no problem; find phone booths on either side of passport control - chip cards to operate them are available from every newsagent. They’ll also be able to sell you SIM cards and pre-pay cards for your mobile phone. Getting to there from town is a cinch. On the whole you’ll pay around 25zł to get there from town by taxi. Only use taxis that are clearly marked with their company name and a list of prices. Cut costs by getting a bus. From Rondo Kaponiera catch the number 59, or from the train station catch the express line L. At other times the airport is connected from the central train station by a night bus (line 242). Single tickets valid for the 30 minute journey can be bought for 3.60zł from any newsagent. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding.QOpen 24hrs. Airlines Trains are reached by heading into the tunnel under the Relay newsagents where you will see signs for the different platforms (peron). Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. (+48) 61 633 39 92, www.pkp.pl. Buy domestic tickets at windows N°2-14 in the main hall, most are open 24hrs. International tickets are sold at windows N°1 and 7 (open 08:00 - 19:00). You can return tickets at all windows, but talk to the information office first. Public transport Poznań is crisscrossed by 20 tram routes (of which one runs at night), and 56 bus lines (21 at night). During the day these run from around 05:00 to 23:00 with trams running approximately every ten minutes, and buses every twelve. When buying a ticket travellers are presented with a galaxy of options. Fares are as follows: Airlines Service ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 21 64, www.airlinesservice.pl. A business airline, connecting Poznan with Warsaw, Kraków and Szczecin as well as acting as agents for a number of internation routes. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. LOT ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 22 61, www.lot.com. QOpen 05:00 - 19:00, Sat 05:00 - 18:00, Sun 06:00 - 19:00. SAS Scandinavian Airlines ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 847 50 36, www.flysas.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tram/bus tickets: Journeys of up to fifteen minutes: 2.00zł (concessions 1.00zł) Up to 30 minutes: 3.60zł (1.80zł) Up to 60 minutes: 5.80zł (2.90zł) There are also express lines which run to the airport amongst other places and whose numbers are prefixed with either ‘A’, ‘P’ or ‘L’. Express lines for up to 15 minutes: 4.00zł (2.00zł) Express lines for up to 30 minutes: 7.20zł (3.60zł) Express lines for up to 60 minutes: 11.60zł (5.80zł) By train Tickets valid for 24 hours are also available (13.20zł/6.60zł), as are weekly passes (32zł/16zł). The main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is opposite the fairgrounds and about 10 minutes by taxi from the Market Square. There is a Poznań City Information (Informacja Miejska Poznan) counter in the station, however your best bet is Glob-Tour, a private tourist office-cum-bookshop that If you thought it couldn’t get anymore complicated you’d be wrong. Those using the bus (and bus only), can also choose from one ride tickets for up to ten stops (2.20zł/1.10zł), for over ten stops (3.60zł/1.80zł), as well as express and sea- Children under four and adults over 70 travel for free, and discounts are available for students aged under 26 and youths in possession of an ISIC card. Tickets can be purchased from the newsagent kiosks around town and the Polish word for ticket is ‘bilet’. Our advice if you are here for a few days is to pick up the Poznan City Card which gives you free unlimited use of the public transport system as part of the price. It’ll save an awful lot of headaches. I t i s ex t rem el y imp or tan t t h a t you rem em b er to validate your ticket by punchin g i t in th e ‘kasowniks’ found by th e bus/tram exi t as soon as you b oard. I f you don’t have a valid ticket and find yoursel f nicked by a plain cloth es inspector you’ll b e fined 100zł on the spot. Many don’t look ver y official so you are wi thin your rights to ask for their ID. You can opt to pay wi thin seven days (in which case th e fine rises to 140zł), or wi thin 14 days (200zł). Foreigners thinking they can slip out of the country without paying up are in for a nasty surprise. You’re passport details will have been noted, and border guards will gleefully place you in custody - it’s not worth the trouble, trust us. Finally, although crime is rare be on guard against pickpockets, par ticularly if making the journey to and from the airport. Taxis Most taxis these days are reliable and use their metres but be aware of rogue taxis which hang around train stations and certain hotels. Make sure that your cab as a sign on the roof marked with the name of the company rather than just a simple ‘taxi’ sign. Once inside make sure the driver turns on the metre and you should be fine. Under Polish law the driver should now have a cash register in the cab and is obliged to give you a printed receipt for your fare. You should expect to pay 5zl for entering the taxi followed by 2zl per kilometre. Prices rise at weekends and late at night and for travel outside of the city limits. Taxis are obliged to display their prices in the windows of the cab so you can compare and check prices. Note that many firms offer a discount to their published prices if you phone and book one in advance. Express Taxi, tel. (+48) 61 196 24, www.taxiexpress. pl. Also vans and microbuses. Hallo Taxi, tel. (+48) 61 196 23. M1 taxi, tel. (+48) 61 196 69/(+48) 061 822 22 22. MPT Taxi, tel. (+48) 61 191 91. Radio Lux Taxi, tel. (+48) 61 196 62, www.luxtaxi. com.pl. Poznan’s most reliable taxi firm. All taxis are Mercedes and drivers wear a collar and tie. Ordering a taxi in Poland can still be a lottery as there are no apparent standards for how the taxi should look so if you want to make sure that you or your guest is picked up by something that doesn’t look like it has a dog sleeping in the back you should really give these guys a call. They also accept credit cards. Radio Taxi Poznań, tel. (+48) 61 196 22, www.taxi. com.pl. November 2009 - February 2010 3 4 basics The facts Territory Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km). Longest River The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Poznań sits on the Warta river which reaches the Baltic via the Odra at Szczecin. Highest Point The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra Mountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and the city lies 219m above sea level. Population (2007) Poland 38,126,000 Warsaw 1,702,139 Kraków 756,267 Łódź 755,251 Wrocław 634,630 Poznań 564,951 Gdańsk 456,658 Katowice 314,500 Sopot 40,666 Local time Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October. Twin Towns Assen, Brno, Hannover, Jyväskylä, Kharkiv, Nablus, Nottinghamshire, Pozuelo de Alarcón, Rennes, Shenzhen, Toledo. City Card The Poznan local government offer a city card for visitors which allows you to visit the city’s attractions while enjoying either free admission or discounted prices. Incorporating free travel on the city’s public transport system as part of the price, you will be given a guide along with the card explaining how to use it and informing you of which places offer free admission (most museums) and which offer discounts (a selection of restaurants, theatres, cinemas and other attractions such as the zoos). The card can also be used in selected places outside of the city such as Kornik Castle and you can enjoy the additional benefit of using the card there for an extra day in addition to the number of days that the card is valid in the city. Cards cost 30zl for 1-day, 40zl for 2-days and 45zl for 3-days and can be purchased from: City Information Centre on ul. Ratajczaka 44, Tourist Information Centre on the Market Square, and the Glob-Tour office in Poznan railway station as well as at selected hotels. Every venue in our guide which accepts the Poznan City Card has been marked with a Y symbol. Instant Poznań basics Market values Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of 3rd November 2009 based on €1 = 4.29zł Product Price (zł) Price (€) McDonald's Big Mac 7.70 zł € 1.79 Snickers 1.49 zł € 0.35 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.00 zł € 5.13 0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.84 zł € 0.66 0.5ltr beer (bar) 7.00 zł € 1.63 Loaf of white bread 3.20 zł € 0.75 20 Marlboros 10.00 zł € 2.33 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 4.21 zł € 0.98 Local transport ticket (1 journey) 2.50 zł € 0.58 Climate Poland has a temperate climate with hot summers and cold winters. Seasons tend to be more pronounced than in the west and temperatures can get down as low as -20 C in winter and as high as +30 C in summer. The coldest weather tends to hit around February although the last couple of winters have been fairly mild. Below is a graphic showing average temperatures and rainfall. Electricity Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If they don't have one the best place to pick one up is at one of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in the airport as you leave. Money Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar, will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins. Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. The Polish currency has been exceedingly strong in recent years and the value of the dollar has nearly halved while you will be getting 25-40% less złoty for your euros and sterling than a couple of years back. Having said that prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparatively cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than 20zł while admission to most museums costs around 5-10zł. www.inyourpocket.com Religion For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easygoing habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass. Smoking Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will be delighted to know that few countries can boast such a fierce commitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number of male smokers has plunged from 70% of the population down to 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco friendly country. Poland is fast becoming the major European production centre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip Morris, Imperial Tobacco and British American Tobacco all being major investors in the economy. Those gunning for a lung-busting taste of a traditional local brand should keep their eyes peeled for brands like Sobieski, Extra Mocne and Meski. Bear in mind that it is taken as bad luck to light your snout off a candle, especially if you are close to the coast; an action which apparently guarantees the death of a sailor. Non-smokers are in for a tough time, and the tobacco free sections (dla niepalących) of restaurants are often in the nether-regions of the venue. Quick currency convertor PLN 1 zł 2 zł 3 zł 4 zł 5 zł 6 zł 7 zł 8 zł 9 zł 10 zł 20 zł 50 zł 100 zł 150 zł 200 zł 250 zł 1 000 zł US$ 2.92zł = $1 $0.34 $0.68 $1.03 $1.37 $1.71 $2.05 $2.40 $2.74 $3.08 $3.42 $6.85 $17.12 $34.25 $51.37 $68.49 $85.62 $342.47 Euro 4.29zł = €1 € 0.23 € 0.47 € 0.70 € 0.93 € 1.17 € 1.40 € 1.63 € 1.86 € 2.10 € 2.33 € 4.66 € 11.66 € 23.31 € 34.97 € 46.62 € 58.28 € 233.10 Pound 4.76zł = £1 £0.21 £0.42 £0.63 £0.84 £1.05 £1.26 £1.47 £1.68 £1.89 £2.10 £4.20 £10.50 £21.01 £31.51 £42.02 £52.52 £210.08 Language smarts Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy command of the English language. Many will also be adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding. Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers. On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish. Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ Basic pronunciation of consonants ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but one syllable. Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get you started. Civilities cześć dzień dobry dobry wieczór dobranoc tak nie proszę na zdrowie dziękuje przepraszam kocham cię Mam na imię Jestem z Anglii (cheshch) (jen do-bri) hi/bye good morning/ afternoon (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening (dobrah-nots) good night (tahk) yes (nyeh) no (prosheh) please (nah zdrovyeh) cheers (jen-koo-yeh) thank you (psheh-prasham) sorry (koham tshe) I love you (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is (yehstem zanglee) I am from England Necessities Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee po angielsku? pan/panee po angyelskoo?) Nie mówię po (nyeh moovyeh po polsku polskoo) Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh napeesatch) Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too paleech?) Jedno piwo (yedno peevo pohpoproszę prosheh) Numbers 1 2 3 10 jeden dwa trzy dziesięć General Airport Train station Bus station Right/left One ticket to First/second class lotnisko dworzec pkp dworzec pks prawo/lewo jeden bilet do pierwsza/druga klasa Where are the toilets? Do you (male/female) speak English? I don’t speak Polish Please write it down Can I smoke here? One beer please yehden dva tshi jayshench November 2009 - February 2010 5 6 where to stay Cream of the crop Blow Up Hall G-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 80, www.blowuphall5050.com. If you want wow factor then look no further, the Blow Up Hall is the most exciting hotel development Poznan, maybe even Poland, has ever seen. Attached to the Stary Browar building this is little less than a work of art. Designed by Tadao Ando, and based on a project by Rafael Lozano-Hemmer, the aim of this hotel is to allow guests to ‘experience and participate in the creation of art’. Pretentious? You bet. But who cares, if there’s one place you should scrimp and save to stay in, it’s this one. Perks include in house spa, butler service, Bang & Olufsen equipment, DVDs on request and iphones for guests. There’s little point in describing the individually designed rooms, suffice to say they make use of the latest fads, trends and techno gimmickery; you really have to see it to believe it. Q22 rooms (22 singles €256 - 374, 22 doubles €256 - 374). Breakfast 80zł. PALGW Upmarket Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. The lower floors are home to one of Poland’s only micro-breweries, and if that doesn’t convince you to stay, then a quick look around the rooms will. Furnished with taste rooms bridge the gap between contemporary styles and the classic touches their old town location deserves. Cream coloured accommodation includes cable TV, dataports and complicated flower arrangements, and some have views overlooking the main square. Q21 rooms (3 singles 250 - 430zł, 17 doubles 290 490zł, 1 apartment 430 - 600zł). PTJHARKW hhh City Park Residence ul. Wyspiańskiego 26 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 221 84 00, www.cityparkresidence.com.pl. An oasis of opulence and class the Notus offers luxury accommodation in a low-level fin de siècle building, whose exterior makes use of sandblasted brickwork and plenty of glass. Rooms are nothing less than the final word in designer living and sport 32 inch flatscreen TVs, king size beds, safe and work desk, while the bathrooms come dripping with generous bathtubs. But there is bad news - there’s no mini-bar, bar or restaurant, while the skylights desperately need the addition of curtains. Still, kitchenettes and a nearby sushi restaurant and wine bar paper over these cracks, while the swimming pool - set under a curvy glass roof - is one of the seven wonders of Poznań. Q88 rooms (88 apartments 285 - 800zł). PTHARLGDC Don Prestige C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. (+48) 61 859 05 90. Luxury serviced apartments packed with designer trappings and hi-tech gadgets. Top class lodgings feature sound system, lounge and kitchen areas as well as some great views overlooking Poznań. Q40 rooms (40 apartments €69 - 99). PTHRW Hotel Twardowski ul. Głogowska 358a, tel. (+48) 61 83 99 800, www.hoteltwardowski.pl. Opening in November details on the Twardowski are thin on the ground, though we’re promised an upmarket four star effort inside a low-lying three storey building. Full review next issue. Q62 rooms (58 singles 330 - 590zł, 58 doubles 280 - 540zł, 3 suites 360 - 640zł, 1 apartment 480 - 740zł). PTHARUFDCW HP Park K-4, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. (+48) 61 874 11 00, fax (+48) 061 874 12 00, [email protected], www. hotelepark.pl. Tidy rooms a stone’s throw from Lake Malta. Pastel coloured rooms come with uniform three star accessories: telephone, cable TV and minibar, with all accommodation bearing the benefit of a recent refurb. Q98 rooms (97 singles 240 - 420zł, 97 doubles 300 - 480zł, 1 apartment 600 - 800zł). PTHAUKW hhh Instant Poznań where to stay IBB Andersia Hotel G-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 80 00, fax (+48) 061 667 80 01, rezerwacja@ andersiahotel.pl, www.andersiahotel.pl. The location is unbeatable, with the Stary Browar shopping centre next door and the old town a shot away. Included in the deal are an indoor pool, air-conditioning throughout, and top-band conference facilities. Fitted with plasma screens and heated bathroom floors this is a choice pampering experience, with window side sofas proving a great spot to enjoy your complimentary morning paper. Long term guests have the choice of three luxury apartments located on the upper floors. Q171 rooms (105 singles 460 - 820zł, 42 doubles 525 - 885zł, 24 apartments 545 - 2700zł). PTHA� RUFLKDCW hhhh Mat’s ul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 868 78 31, fax (+48) 061 861 41 78, [email protected], www.hotelmats.pl. An engaging combination of classic and modern; antique clocks and rococo-style armchairs next to shining glass and tennis courts. This is not your standard three star venture, and as such is well worth the taxi ride from the city centre. Rooms have had a thorough refit in the last few months, cementing the status of Mat’s as one of Poznań’s premier choices. Q35 rooms (3 singles 219 - 449zł, 21 doubles 269 - 549zł, 9 suites 309 - 599zł, 2 apartments 369 - 629zł). PTHAR� ULKDW hhh NH Poznań A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. (+48) 61 624 88 00, www.nh-hotels.com. The NH wins our favour for the fully restored art nouveau frontage, behind which guests will find an upscale four star endeavour that fully warrants the slightly steep prices. Check-in is conducted in a sleek room walled with dark woods, while sleeping is reserved for stylishly simple bedrooms, kitted out with puffy beds, rich colours, hardwood floors and a chic ‘less is more’ fashion. Little details count, and here you’ll find a book of short stories next to the bed, gummy bears in the mini-bar and proper blackout curtains that guarantee a peaceful rest. This is where Radiohead lodged during their recent Poznań visit, and if it’s good enough for them, it’s certainly good enough for you. Q93 rooms (93 singles €79 - 249, 93 doubles €79 - 249). Breakfast €17. PTHARU� FLGKDW hhhh Royal A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. (+48) 61 858 23 00, www.hotel-royal.com.pl. Plenty of character and history inside this courtyard hotel. Having served as army HQ during the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising, Royal is decorated with wood panelling, floral-patterned duvets and plum colour schemes. The Mr Fix-It staff can organize everything from car rentals to sightseeing tours, while guests can also enjoy a 24hr bar. Q31 rooms (9 singles 224 - 465zł, 14 doubles 294 - 545zł, 7 suites 315 - 575zł, 1 apartment 350 - 750zł). HALGW hhh Symbol key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino H Conference facilities T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled R Internet L Guarded parking F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant C Swimming pool D Sauna W Wi-Fi Sheraton Poznań Hotel E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/. Just steps away from the Trade Fair, though this is more than the business travellers choice. The Sheraton Poznan is the number one hotel in town, with a chic modern style that covers every inch of the hotel. Accommodation comes with flat screen TVs, walk-in showers, top-notch sound proofing and the most comfortable beds in the country. Head to the upper floors to enjoy facilities like the swimming pool and fitness room, or check out the executive lounge for video games, magazines and beverages. It’s very impressive, but what really stands out here are the staff; experts in hospitality. Q 180 rooms (167 singles 300 - 1000zł, 167 doubles 300 - 1000zł, 13 apartments 615 - 4220zł). Breakfast 90zł. Tax 7%. PTHARU� FLKDCW hhhhh Stare Miasto (The Old Town) C-3, ul. Rybaki 36, tel. (+48) 61 659 00 43, www.hotelstaremiasto.pl. Prim rooms fully deserving the three stars they have been granted. All come with ensuite bathrooms and internet access, and given the old town location are surprisingly large. The studio and apartment are also open for business and are fully air-conditioned.A conference room is available for up to 40 people, air-conditioned with a screen, projector and sound system. Note that not all rooms have air conditioning. Q23 rooms (3 singles 195 - 345zł, 18 doubles 255 - 475zł, 1 suite 275 - 530zł, 1 apartment 350 - 690zł). PTJHARGW hhh Mid-range Campanile E-2, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. (+48) 61 845 66 00, www.campanile.com.pl. The Poznań Campanile is everything we’ve come to expect from such a good value chain; high standard modern rooms furnished with a colourful flourish. Bathtubs, net connection and cable TV come as standard. Q80 rooms (76 singles 179 - 279zł, 76 doubles 179 - 279zł, 4 apartments 240 - 339zł). Breakfast 32zł. PTHAULKXW hh Lech A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 74, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 51, www.hotel-lech.poznan.pl. Lech presents large, spotless rooms complete with satellite TV, dataports and bathrooms. Planted in the middle of Poznań, so no need for taxis. Q79 rooms (34 singles 142 - 310zł, 44 doubles 234 - 430zł, 4 triples 346 - 530zł, 1 apartment 254 - 580zł). JAKW hh Polonez G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36, tel. (+48) 61 864 71 00, fax (+48) 061 852 37 62, rez.polonez@ orbis.pl, www.accorhotels.com. Brownish rooms in an enormous block on the northern edges of the centre. While the unimaginative accommodation does little to feed the creative spirit, all rooms have telephone, satellite TV and dataports. There’s a surprisingly good gift shop on the ground floor. Q369 rooms (167 singles 120 - 480zł, 191 doubles 120 - 480zł, 11 apartments 190 - 480zł). Breakfast 39zł. OTYHAULKDW hhh Rezydencja Solei D-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 61 855 73 51, www.hotel-solei.pl. Squirreled away just beyond Old Town Square Solei present compact rooms decorated with floral patterns, IKEA water colours and wood furniture. It’s on a quiet street, but close to all the action, though prices sky-rocket during trade fairs. A sister hotel, Rezydencja Solei (ul. Wałecka 2, tel. 061 847 58 38) offers much the same though is usually fully booked with groups using the conference facilities. Note that not all rooms have air conditioning. Q11 rooms (7 singles 179 - 369zł, 2 doubles 249 - 489zł, 2 apartments 330 - 589zł). PAGW Rzymski C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. (+48) 61 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. Right in the city centre, so do ask for a room facing away from the street if you don’t wish to be woken by a dawn chorus of trams and refuse trucks. A decent three star standard with rooms pleasantly decorated in neutral looking brownish colours. Q87 rooms (28 singles 200 - 330zł, 53 doubles 250 - 470zł, 1 suite 375 - 660zł, 5 apartments 330 - 570zł). TJHARUKW hhh Budget Gold E-4, ul. Bukowska 127a, tel. (+48) 61 842 07 74, www.goldhotel.pl. A small suburban hotel with boxy modern rooms complete with sliding bathroom doors and a vase of sweets on the reception desk. A very decent, budget option. Close to the airport, so expect to be travelling to and from town by chariot. Q11 rooms (11 singles 150 - 170zł, 11 doubles 190 - 210zł). TAXW hh Apartments Fancy House E-4, ul. Śniadeckich 18/4, tel. (+48) 660 750 916, www.fancyhouse.pl. So it's the Blow Up Hall that's been grabbing the headlines, but that's not to say it's the only design hotel in town. Fancy House is a star in its own right, with a selection of accommodation that's both fun and stylish. Choose the Pop room for pics of Marilyn and wedding white colours, or go for Orient for svelte wood finishes and eastern flavour. Think you can do better than the local chefs? Prove so by cooking up in the fully-equipped kitchen. Q3 rooms (3 singles 195 - 270zł, 3 doubles 220 - 295zł, 1 apartment 660 - 885zł). TALGW Hostels Cinnamon A-2, ul. Gwarna 10/2, tel. (+48) 61 851 57 57, www.cinnamonhostel.com. Enter via a shabby-looking barred gateway to find a rather spiffy choice of budget lodgings. The common room is right out of studentsville, what with all the band and movie posters, while the rooms are neat and simple and themed on colours. Everything from beds to kitchens to bathrooms are fresh, clean and pleasant, while those hoping for a little more privacy can now rent a separate apartment named Spice. Q9 rooms (4 singles 100zł, 4 doubles 135zł, 2 quads 240zł, 2 Eight-person rooms 400zł, 1 Nine-person rooms 405zł). 43 dorm beds 45-60zł per person. TAGW Frolic Goats Hostel C-2, ul. Wrocławska 16/6 (entrance from ul. Jaskółcza), tel. (+48) 61 852 44 11, www.frolicgoatshostel.com. Accommodation ranges from private rooms to 12 man dorms with beds being of the sturdy pine type. Everything smells and feels brand new here, which is exactly what it is, and details include a kitchen with a preserved stone chimney as well as bicycle hire and the promise of round-the-clock hot water. If mingling with backpackers washing their socks is beneath you then ask about their private apartments on ul. Krysiewicza 6. Q8 rooms (3 doubles 170 - 200zł, 2 quads 240 - 260zł, 2 Eight-person rooms 440 - 464zł, 1 Twelve-person rooms 600zł). 45 dorm beds 50-65zł per person. ARGW Fusion Hostel F-3, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. (+48) 61 852 12 30, www.fusionhostel.pl. We've seen many hostels, but few to rival Fusion. Could this be the best in Poland? The design here is positively futuristic, with an excellent common room decked out with low-slung sofas and a separate area holding a bank of flatscreen computers. Everything shines and sparkles here, while a maximum of six to a room minimizes the risk of being woken by a snoring Ozzie. Q 88 dorm beds 55-120zł per person. AGW November 2009 - February 2010 7 8 restaurants Poznań might have a reputation as an international centre of commerce but its restaurant scene is still very much in its infancy. You will find a scattering of world-class restaurants, but you're ethnic options are limited in both number and quality. The opening hours we list are flexible, and most will stay open past their closing times if customers are still lingering. The prices we list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and dearest dish on the menu. As with most of the city's bars and clubs, restaurants tend to remain open past their official closing times if customers are lingering. American Rodeo Drive C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 853 72 48, www.rodeodrive.pl. Aspiring rednecks could do a lot worse than showing up to Rodeo Drive, a spacey venue which combines bare bricks, steel pipes and sk ylights wi th saloon-style touches like cacti, cattle horns and hussies in cowgal hats. The menu includes wings and ribs, but most people are here for the steaks - among the best in town. There's a few to choose from, with the filet mignon winning our vote ever y time; pair it up with bacon branded beans and some loaded jacket potatoes. Q Open 11:00 - 22:00. (20-80zł). PTAXSW Cafes Cafe Bordo D-1, ul. Żydowska 28/3, tel. (+48) 61 851 00 81, www.cafebordo.com. The garden is one of the best in town; stuffed with flower pots, vines and a fountain. Alternatively head indoors where the aroma of herbal tea hangs thick in the air, and a middle-aged crowd whisper amid flickering candles and bottles of wine. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. TAX French Le Palais du Jardin C-2, Stary Rynek 37, tel. (+48) 61 665 85 85, www.lepalais.poznan.pl. Nouvelle cuisine in a modern, cream coloured setting. The menu is considered one of the best in the city, and comes comprised of dishes like monk fish and lamb. There's also an impressive wine list to gargle through, and it's clearly a favourite with suit and ties on expense count fiddles. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (29-99zł). PTAXSW L' Heroine C-2, ul. Wrocławska 10, tel. (+48) 61 853 43 92, www.lheroine.pl. So here's the newbie of the issue, a fabulous French spot which a design conscious interior featuring pieces of paper dangling from light fittings, and gleaming cutlery sat amid clean vanilla colours. The settings perfect, the food even more so, with dishes like rabbit in red wine sauce cooked by a clearly confident chef. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (19-81zł). TAUXW Symbol key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted E Live music S Take away T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled J Old Town location 6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi Instant Poznań restaurants Fusion Fusion Restaurant E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.sheraton. pl/poznan. Top class dining in the Sheraton's showpiece restaurant. Chic and sexy this is designer dining the way it's meant to be with inventive dishes like chicken marinated in coconut milk appearing from out of the open kitchen. Floor to ceiling windows allow for plenty of light, as well as views of the proletariat scurrying to work. Check out their Mediterranean menu each Thursday. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 17:00. (58-86zł). PTAUXSW Indian Buddha Bar C-2, ul. Sieroca 10, tel. (+48) 61 852 33 99, www.buddhabar-poznan.pl. At last, Poznan gets the Indian restaurant it deserves. Accessed by a red carpet this place looks like it cost a fortune, with every inch covered with wood-carved panels, gold braided drapes and intricate ironwork. Presiding over it all, a smarmy looking giant Buddha. But while the food is decent (as opposed to excellent like it was but a few months back) it's with a token of concern you may notice the revamped menu - gone are the list of Indian staples, replaced instead by a cut-down, ‘best of India' selection. Even more disturbing is the addition of sides like nuggets and fries. Worse still the owners appear keen to promote this place as a club first, restaurant second, so don't be surprised to find your dining interrupted by ditzy twenty something's twirling to REALLY LOUD Bollywood tunes. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (25-50zł). PTAS Indonesian Warung Bali C-1, ul. Żydowska 1, tel. (+48) 61 853 23 11, www.warungbali.pl. Poznań's best Indonesian restaurant. So it's Poznań's only Indonesian restaurant, but even if there was competition this place would still draw the punters. Set around Balinese icons and carvings Warung impresses with authentic dishes like spicy beef coconut soup and shrimps with black pepper sauce. A real highlight in a city still largely suspicious of ethnic cuisine. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00, Mon 15:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (18-49zł). PAGS International Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. You might be here with the lads, in which case point your nose to the left, order some beer snacks and get stuck into their range of microbrews. Alternately, sophisticates are going to be picking the right door, through which they'll find a cream dining room where dapper business types dine alongside gushing personal assistants dressed like Lois Lane. The menu is a bit of a juggling act, with influences from the Mediterranean, Germany and Poland, but the results hit double six every time. Save space for dessert - the choccy buns are a death by chocolate affair, and feel pleasingly sinful. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (16-54zł). PTJASW Dom Vikingów C-2, Stary Rynek 62, tel. (+48) 61 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. The Viking's House isn't half as primitive as it sounds. On the contrary, this Danish owned spot has a crisp urban look and a client base that at times feels overwhelmingly cashed-up and foreign. And yes, while there are Danish dishes on show, there's plenty of alternative options for the non-Scandic visitor. There's a few places claiming Poznan's best steak, and the one in DV is certainly up there on the leader board. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. (3986zł). PTAXSW Mosaica G-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 80 00, www.mosaica.pl. This has emerged as one of the top eateries in town, with a modern international menu which includes Spanish tapas and pan Asian offerings. Of note is the sorbet, which comes prepared in front of your eyes. As the name suggests, mosaics are the central decorative theme here, and the interior comes topped off with a 1925 piano imported from Berlin - hearing it in action is worth the trip in itself. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (29-99zł). PTAEXSW Panorama K-4, ul. Baraniaka 77 (HP Park Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 874 11 56, www.hotelepark.pl. Views of Lake Malta are the main selling point here, and come sunset it really does get quite romantic. An inoffensive, play-it-safe interior reflects the hotel location, but the chefs do well in creating good value dinners that really do merit the taxi trek out here. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (38-61zł). PTAUXSW Restaurant de Rome C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22 (Rzymski Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. Don't let the name fool you, the menu here is Polish and European with standards like zurek and pierogi alongside a few game dishes. It's right at the back of a three star hotel, with no windows and a tame interior that proves instantly forgettable. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00. (23-48zł). PTAUGSW Rzymianka C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22 (Rzymski Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. This bright, informal, cafeteria-style restaurant in the Hotel Rzymski is a popular breakfast spot. The continental breakfast is a fair deal and they also do omelettes and sausages from dawn. Lunch and dinner options include gyros, cutlets, fried salmon, grilled pork, ribs, pasta and salads. The menu has crystal-clear colour photos of the dishes so you know exactly what you`re getting. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (23-48zł). PTAUGSW U Mnie Czy u Ciebie A-2, ul. Gwarna 3, tel. (+48) 61 852 58 82, www.umnieczyuciebie.pl. Lots of bare brick, clever lighting and sepia photos give this place a lifestyle mag look, and its already done a fair job on roping the customers in. The menu - comprising of salads and good mains like chicken fillet - isn't the most adventurous you'll find, but that's by no means a handicap; what they do, they do well. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 11:00 - 21:30. (12-50zł). PTASW Italian Bernardino Ristorante B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 40, tel. (+48) 61 855 12 17, www.bernardino.pl. A light and bright modern venue with a clean and crisp design that could have fallen from the pages of a design mag. Street-level views of Sw. Marcin allow for plenty of pedestrian watching, while the kitchen gives plenty of reason to return. Find the full gamut of Italian offerings on display, including a superior choice of pizza that knocks most of the competition out of the water. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (20-70zł). PTGSW La Scala C-1, ul. Zamkowa 7, tel. (+48) 61 853 04 89, www.lascala.com.pl. One of the priciest meals in Poznań, served inside a fantasia of shimmery fabrics, stucco mouldings and murals depicting Venice in its full glory. Furnished with a flourish not a single inch has been left undecorated, with the overall effect leaving your eyes spinning in their sockets. In exchange for a peel of banknotes expect to be treated to outstanding renditions of Italian dishes from the updated menu. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Fri 14:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (19-130zł). PTAUEXSW Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall),, tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Attached to the side of the Stary Browar Shopping Mall Piano Bar rates as one of the top options in Poz. The background aesthetics are fantastic, with cream shades paired with moody lighting and striking art exhibitions. Although you'll find all the expected pasta and meat meals it's the fish that tends to steal the show here, which is something of a result in landlocked Poznań. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30-110zł). PTAUEXW Valpolicella C-2, ul. Wrocławska 7, tel. (+48) 61 855 71 91, www.valpolicella.poznan.pl. This place hasn't changed since our debut issue; find 21 types of antipasti, the usual meat and pasta dishes and wines from Veneto inside a crazily asymmetrical decor painted in cartoon colours. Certainly reliable if nothing else. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (2267zł). PTJAXS Japanese Hanami Sushi C-2, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 855 13 09. Decorated with sails and canvases the rather plain looking Hanami doesn't look too special, but this place is catching on big style - the sushi here is fantastic, made using the freshest ingredients you'd wish for. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (9-45zł). PTAUGSW Kyokai Sushi Bar ul. Wojskowa 4 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 519 37 61 82, www.kyokai.pl. Poznan's appetite for sushi keeps growing, and Kyokai is the latest contender in the battle of the chopsticks. Sushi sets revolve around a circular bar, Tokyo-style, while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. The surroundings, set in a series of converted red brick buildings, look chic and industrial, while the location - amid a high class shopping centre and hotel - mean no shortage of well heeled fans of the Rising Sun. Definitely one to check out. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-55zł). PTAUGSW Sakana Sushi Bar D-2, ul. Wodna 7/1, tel. (+48) 61 853 16 39, www.sakana.pl. Five star sushi served inside a pale vanilla coloured interior equipped with all the necessary rice paper panels and bamboo extras. Raw fish circles the bar in small wooden boats, ready to be snapped up by wasp-waisted fashionista revelling in the chance to showoff deftly executed chopstick moves. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (50-80zł). PTJAGSW Sushi 77 D-2, ul. Woźna 10, tel. (+48) 61 853 33 86, www.sushi77.com. A narrow restaurant serving fresh cuts of sushi to Poznan's growing band of Japanistas. Complimenting the fine raw fish are import beer and sake, as well as an international wine card to go with your choice. You could visit in daytime, and indeed many people do, but our suggestion is to wait till dusk when the lights dim and the atmosphere steps up a notch. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (29-54zł). PTAGSW Polish Bamberka C-2, Stary Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 99 17. A long-standing restaurant squirreled away in the complex of buildings at the centre of the town square. Tiffany lamps, stained glass panels and other classic touches add an awkwardly formal feel to the restaurant, though that does nothing to detract from a strong European menu that includes several local dishes. The pierogi are excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-50zł). PTJAXS November 2009 - February 2010 9 10 restaurants Markowa Knajpka C-1, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 78. The village meets the city in Makowa Knajpka, a whitewashed room featuring dark timber fittings and some valium grooves. Excellent value local dishes are presented to a thirty something crowd by a team of friendly bargirls whose looks make the heart go ‘ping'. We've always settled for the ‘classic steak', and have yet to be disappointed. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (24-58zł). PAEXS Pod Koziołkami C-2, Stary Rynek 95, tel. (+48) 61 851 78 68, www.podkoziolkami.pl. A long standing restaurant that has been delighting both carnivores and vegetarians for years. Upstairs you'll find a huge pantry with the daily salads and pierogi on the menu. Head downstairs to the grill cellar for your daily protein quota. The interiors in this section are authentically shadowy with a medieval flavour, while the menu is a good range of meaty choices like sirloin steak. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (18-87zł). PTYJAXSW Pod Złotą Jabłonią (Under The Gold Appletree) D-1, ul. Garbary 48, tel. (+48) 61 852 91 70, www.podzlotajablonia. com.pl. There's something a little covert about dining here; lavish fittings and expensive looking artwork lend something of a private club atmosphere to this place. The menu is Polish influenced, though that does nothing to stop the chefs from letting their imaginations caper free - check out the duck in aniseed and honey. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (44-118zł). PTAEXSW Ratuszova C-2, Stary Rynek 55, tel. (+48) 61 851 05 13, www. ratuszova.eu. Either dine on the ground floor or descend the stairs and into a sprawling cellar complete with vaulted ceilings and knightly murals. Ribs, steak, duck and other meaty meals come served by an efficient staff, and serious meat eaters can satisfy their bloodlust by ordering the Ratuszova plate; it includes three types of meat and feeds a tiger. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-69zł). PTJAXSW nightlife Quick Eats Bars & Pubs Sphinx A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. (+48) 61 852 Blow Up Hall G-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 07 02, www.sphinx.poznan.pl. The Sphinx chain have cornered the quick and simple, budget dinner market, with fans of all ages squishing between coloured lamps and plastic trees to dine on burgers, kebabs and pizzas. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (14-46zł). PTAUXSW Spanish Tapas Bar D-2, Stary Rynek 60, tel. (+48) 61 852 85 32, www.tapas.pl. Right on the corner of the Rynek this Spanish spot has long been popular with a cashed up local crowd. Service is stone faced but everything else wins gold stars; from a warm interior littered with wrought iron and Hispanic paintings to the steaks, which we rate as some of the best we've tried. The kitchen is right at the entrance, allowing diners the opportunity to hear their food sizzle and chefs clattering around cursing less competent colleagues. Always a good night, and sometimes excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (15-67zł). PJAS Taste Barcelona C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar II floor), tel. (+48) 61 278 76 86. Stary Browar keeps surprising us. Every shopping centre now claims to be ‘more than a mall', but here's one that actually justifies the hyperbole. Part of the reason is the endless stream of top notch eateries, and Taste Barcelona is one of the latest. The open plan design leaves diners open to peering eyes, but there's no faulting the aesthetics; clean, blond woods and coloured bottles set behind an illuminated bar. On the menu good quickie tapas bites cooked with confidence and presented with flair. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (15-30zł). PAXSW CAR HIRE & TRANSPORT SERVICES IN POZNAŃ We can help you to arrange all kinds of transport in Poznań and within the whole of Poland and Europe, starting with a wide range of 42 car models. Flexibility, competitive prices and simple rental conditions are combined with professional and helpful assistance to guarantee that we fully fulfill your needs. Our vast car rental database in Poznań enables you to hire the perfect car for your stay in Poland. We are able to offer a number of different cars at optimal rates. Even if your chosen model is unavailable, we will find you a similar option at a comparable price. What’s more, the offer covers both automatic and manual transmission models. Your car can be delivered to the airport, your hotel or to any other place in Poznań which is extremely convenient, especially if you are visiting the city for the first time. We are also flexible with regards to the drop-off point once you are finished with the vehicle. To ensure peace of mind we, we provide you with transparent rental conditions and co-operate only with trustworthy car rental suppliers in Poznań and other Polish towns. TYPICAL CAR RENTAL PRICES/ DAY: Chevrolet Spark: 30 – 36 EUR Citroen C5: 53 – 98 EUR Land Rover Freelander: 78 – 98 EUR Pick-up/drop-off fee in Poznań: 10 EUR (office hours) 20 EUR (after hours) If you do not wish to be a driver of your rented car, you could consider the offer of transfers and chauffeured limousines at a range of prices. These offer particular comfort and convenience Instant Poznań if you need transportation to and from the airport to the hotel or any other destination in Poznań, Poland or abroad. Among the models offered are economy and business options as well as beautiful, classic cars. Englishspeaking drivers are available to add to the comfort of service and we also can accommodate special requests. Cars are a convenient form of transport, but we know that sometimes other forms are more appropriate. If you need to travel with a larger group, you can take coaches and mini-buses into consideration. We provide luxury, airconditioned models and safe budget options if you want to find the lowest possible cost. If you need really fast travel in Poland or Europe, we have a very special offer where we can organise private air taxi flights tailored to your needs. Feel free to contact us and we will be happy to help you with any of your transportation arrangements in Poznań or throughout Poland. Don’t hesitate to ask about particular details and requirements – we are here to find the best offer for you. To contact us email us at [email protected] or call our reservation centre on +48 - 22 351 22 35. 99 91, www.blowuphall5050.com. Woah, if there's one place that's left an impact this issue it's the Blow Up. The bar is the final word in industrial chic, with metal floors, exposed brickwork and ceilings that stretch to the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes with your head, as do the cocktails, truly the work of a scientific hand. As for the bar itself, that's a multi-angled, zinc plated masterpiece that has no rival. It's not often we attach the words unmissable to a venue, so take note and visit. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEW Brogans Irish Pub D-1, ul. Szewska 20a, tel. (+48) 61 852 50 73, w w w.brogans.pl. Loud, smok y and slightly murky, Brogan's is everything you expect from an Irish pub, with a cracking atmosphere that brings to mind the hazy air of your neighborhood local. Visual diversions come courtesy of tankards, chess boards and street signs, while a regular rotation of international guest beers keep the crowd clinking glasses way into the night. Q Open 14:00 - 05:00. AE SomePlace Else E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan. The quintessential expat bar and a lifeline to your parallel life abroad. The layout here is simple, diner décor featuring all the Route 66 extras and rock'n'roll pics. Setting it aside are Sky Sports, Poznań's best burger and a line up of live music acts that lead the party to its inevitably blurry conclusion. Blame your amnesia on the bar staff, some of the best in the business, and while SPE is not a cheap night a trip here is just the medicine if you've had one of those days where you're tempted to book the next ticket out of Poland. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEXW Sports Bar C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów), tel. (+48) 61 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. A subterranean tunnel shaped space is home to the new look Dom Vikingów Sports Bar. If you thought DV was already an expat magnet, then just watch it go come Champions League night. Just reopened at press time, so we'll be back next issue for a full snoop. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. PAXW Clubs (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Drink Poznań's best beer alongside business travelers talking contracts and native high-fliers courting the attentions of the local sex sirens. Out in the back a large room crammed with copper vats and dials produces the three house beers, while in the front find a modern design that combines steel and glass in tasteful style. Never a quiet night, and definitely a nominee for bar of the year. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAW Bee D-2, ul. Wielka 18, tel. (+48) 507 06 80 84, www. beeclub.pl. A great looking bar which morphs into a club the moment the calendar flicks to Friday. Honey colours and rounded circular shapes lend a mildly retro tone, and the seats are among the most comfortable in town; enjoy them while you can, it's odds on they'll be scarred with lager stains and cigarette burns by the time the year is out. House, funk and lounge sounds fit into the background, while an over 21 door policy does the job of freezing the riff raff out. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAW Celtic C-2, ul. Murna 3, tel. (+48) 505 613 719, www. celticirishpub.com. Two types of Guinness here; the first sort comes tipped from tins before being zapped into shape under some sort of space age laser. Granted, it's a process that cuts out human error, but it's not exactly a method that would win approval back in Eire. So instead put faith into the patient bar girl and check out their newly added draft Guinness - ten out of ten. Touting a couple of Irish flags and Celtic posters it's a pleasant experience, and while not exactly your signature expat pub it's emerged as a very decent addition to local nightlife. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PAW Cuba Libre C-2, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 852 31 57, www.cuba-libre.pl. Set down a shadowy courtyard basement the newly expanded Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls, pics of Che and wall space dedicated to an assortment of Cuban goodies. This place goes for detail, so much so drinkers can even take a seat in one of those clapped out vintage bangers you see pootling round the streets of Havana. The disco Latino nights on Friday and Saturday prove seriously popular, though if you've got two left feet then consider brushing up on your dance jiggles at one of their salsa and samba classes held earlier in the week. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri 20:00 - 05:00, Sat 20:00 - 06:00. P Post Dali B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 40, tel. (+48) 61 852 40 00, www.postdali.pl. Open till late, very late, Post Dali is the final word in Poznań by night, and frequently the undoing of those who visit; our notes are little more than scribbles, a suggestion that a belting good time was had. There's a few points to set it aside from the competition, the first being it's sky high location - find it occupying a chunk of the tenth and eleventh floors of a Poznań office block, with views that stretch across the city. Typical clubby sounds keep the party going till memory fades, with a committed crowd lapping up the shenanigans. QOpen , Wed 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00, Sun 20:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PUEW Cute H-3, ul. Wielka 27/29, tel. (+48) 61 851 91 37, www. Post Dali Plaża F-3, ul. Skośna 1, tel. (+48) 512 04 29 09, www.postdali.pl. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. UEBX Qube Vodka Bar and Cafe E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www. sheraton.pl/poznan. Qube is the lobby bar of the Sheraton, and the perfect primer for pre-restaurant cocktails or while counting down the minutes before Someplace Else opens. The staff are top drawer, proved by the creation of the best mojito we've found in town, while the low bar side seats refuse to let you leave until you've tried one too many of their lethal vodkas. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PAUXW SQ C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 61 859 65 78, www.sqklub.pl. Poznan's most famous club, and packed with enough pin-up girls to have your head spinning like a periscope. An expensive wardrobe and silly haircut are essential, and while the design is nothing special the nights here most certainly are. DJs arrive from across Poland to play here, sometimes even further, and it's certainly the premier place in town to puff the chest out and strut about like a big time Bertie. Find it in the basement of the Stary Browar shopping centre. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAE Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. cuteklub.pl. Found inside the guts of an old town cellar Cute plays the best nu-house sounds in Poznań, which to the rank and prole translates as dance tracks that are way too cool to chart. Watch the hourglass figures take to the dance floor while reclining inside a white, post industrialist interior. Strange shapes and sounds aplenty, adding to the feeling that the pills are about to hit. QOpen 20:00 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. PJAEW November 2009 - February 2010 11 12 what to see A city of churches and cobbles par t of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly wondering the network of streets and alleyways, making chance discoveries of from one turn to the next. That said there are a number of must-see sights that s h ou l d n ot b e l e f t to chance. As a visitor your natural start point should by the main square, the glorious Rynek. Taking centre stage is the Old Town Hall (C-2, Star y Rynek 1). First built at the beginning of the 14th century, the seat of Poznań’s municipal authorities was rebuilt following the great fire of 1536. Italian architect, Giovanni Quadro of Lugano, was commissioned to oversee the reconstruction, and a renaissance loggia and attic were added, offset by a classical tower. Once revered as the most beautiful building north of the Alps, the town hall has been beset by a catalogue of disasters. A fire in 1675, a hurricane in 1725 and then bomb damage during WWII mean that little of the original structure remains. The oldest surviving parts are the cellars with their early-Gothic crossvaulted ceilings. Today it houses the Historical Museum of Poznań, whose collection encompasses exhibits from the 10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elaborately decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and figures from mythology. The crowds you’ll see gathering outside the building at noon are waiting for the two mechanical billy goats to emerge. Directly outside the town hall is a whipping post, dating from 1535. It was here that miscreants were whipped, executed or led to the city boundaries before being banished from Poznań. The figure standing on top depicts the executioner of Poznań, and funds for the statue were raised from fines levied on maids who would dress above their station. The Old Town Square was the centre of old Poznań, and to this day is rich in historic architecture, museums and restaurants. Around 60 per cent of the old town was flattened during WWII, though most of the houses were meticulously rebuilt in the 1950s following Baroque and Renaissance styles. Aside from the two concrete carbuncles planted needlessly in the middle, the town square remains one of the most picturesque in Central Europe. Behind the town hall lies the City Scales building that once housed the hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to the market. Museums you’ll find in the square include the Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz (D-2, Stary Rynek 84), which honours one of Poland’s best known authors, the Musical Instruments Museum (D-2, Stary Rynek 45-47), the Military Museum (D-2, Stary Rynek 9), stocked with a collection of weaponry from scythes and halberds, to the uniforms of winged hussars, and the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (C-2, Stary Rynek 3) which chronicles the 1918 Uprising which culminated in Poznań switching from German to Polish hands. Other museums of note in the city include the excellent Archeological Museum (D-2, ul. Wodna 27) whose collection includes Egyptian mummies and obelisks and charts life in Ancient Egypt and prehistoric Poland. Art fans should head to the National Museum (C-2, al. Marcinkowskiego 9), an excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting impressionistic works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch and Flemish Instant Poznań street register paintings in the connected old building. The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland. Also, don’t miss a visit to the Poznań Model (C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2), a huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s picture sketched in 1618. Constructed over a period of six years the model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and you can expect lots of kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up the school seats around it as they wait for the show to begin. To avoid churches in Poznań would take a serious case of river blindness. They’re everywhere, no more so than on Ostrów Tumski. The island is dominated by the Cathedral (Ostrów Tumski 17) with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. The oldest remains are in the cathedral crypt, where you can see sections of excavated walls that date back to the founding of Poland. Trek back to the old town though to find Poznań’s most impressive church: that of St Stanislaus (C/D-2, ul. Gołębia 1). Created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century it boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists as well as a beautiful pink exterior. Poznań was also affected deeply by the war, and a visit to the former Gestapo penal camp (Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum, Al. Polska) is a disturbing daytrip. Hardly more uplifting is the Poznań Army Museum (G-1, Poznań Citadel), which aside from boasting displays of modern military hardware documents the defence of Poznań in 1939. You’ll find more about Poznań’s sights, fully up to date prices and opening hours in the print edition of Poznań I n Yo u r P o c k e t , a s well as information on stacks of things we’ve left out here: including castles, meteors, The Great Escape and more. Guides can be picked up by asking your concierge or by visiting one of the outlets listed within the pages of this mini-guide. Tourist information City Information Centre (Centrum Informacji Miejskiej) B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 851 96 45, www.cim.poznan.pl. Tourist office with detailed tourist and business information. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Glob-Tour E-4, Dworzec Główny (Main Train Station), tel. (+48) 61 866 06 67. This round-the-clock office in the train station offers a large selection of maps, guidebooks and videos. They also arrange tours and accommodation. Open 24hrs. Tourist Information Centre C-2, Stary Rynek 59/60, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 56. Maps and guides in Polish and English. German, French and some English spoken. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Closed Sun. 23 Lutego 27 Grudnia 3 Maja Al. Marcinkowskiego Al. Niepodległości Długa Dominikańska Działyńskich Franciszkańska Fredry Garbary Garncarska Gołębia Góra Przemysła Grobla Gwarna Jaskółcza Kantaka Klasztorna Kościuszki Kozia Kramarska Krysiewicza Kurza Noga Libelta B/C-1 B-2 B-1/2 C-1/2 A-1/3 C/D-3 D-1 B-1 C-2 A-1/2 D-1/2 A-2 C/D-2 C-1/2 D-2 A-2 C-2 B-2 D-2 A/B-1/2/3 C/D-2 C/D-1 C-3 C-2 A/B-1 Ludgardy C-2 Małe Garbary D-1 Masztalarska C-1 Mielżyńskiego B-1 Młyńska B-1 Mokra D-1 Mostowa D-2 Murna C-2 Muśnickiego D-3 Nowowiejskiego B-1/2 Ogrodowa C-3 Paderewskiego C-2 Piekary B-3 Pl. Wolności B/C-2 Podgórna C/D-2/3 Półwiejska C-3 Powstańców Wielkopolskich A-3 Ratajczaka B-2/3 Ratuszowa C-2 Rybaki C-3 Rynkowa C-1/2 Sieroca C-2 Składowa A-3 Ślusarska D-2 Stary Rynek C/D-2 Stawna Strzałowa Strzelecka św. Marcin św. Marii Magdaleny Świętosławska Szewska Szkolna Szymańskiego Taczaka Taylora Wielka Wieniawskiego Wodna Wolnica Woźna Wrocławska Wroniecka Wszystkich Świętych Wysoka Za Bramką Zamkowa Zielona Żydowska D-1 C-3 C-3 A/B-2/3 D-3 D-2 D-1 C-2 C-3 A/B-3 A-2/3 D-2 A-1 D-2 C-1 D-2 C-2 D-1 D-3 B/C-3 D-3 C-1 D-3 D-1 City Tours A city with a dramatic history and full of striking contrasts, Warsaw leaves its mark on all who visit it. Guided tours prove very helpful in discovering the hidden attractions and with 15 tours within or starting in the capital, you will easily find the programme that suits you best. Warsaw City Walk is a perfect introduction to explore the Old Town area with prices starting from €8 per person, alternatively a wider programme is available with the Coach City Tour, which takes 3 hours, costs €34-36 and which visits the Old Town with its Royal Castle, St John’s Cathedral and Barbican, areas of former Jewish Ghetto, the Royal Route, Łazienki Royal Park and other highlights of Warsaw. Warsaw Fairy Tales Tour is designed especially for children who will love to hear tales and legends of this historic city. Tours start from €8 per person. Fans of music can try Chopin Piano Concerts (prices from €28) while those who are interested in history should consider Jewish Heritage Tour (prices from €22). A great alternative to traditional sightseeing is EnigmaWarsaw, an original outdoor game for groups and companies, revealing the Warsaw that has been lost during its stormy history. Warsaw offers several nearby attractions. Our Chopin Tour is a trip to the home town of the famous Polish composer in Żelazowa Wola. Prices, including transport and guide, start from €46. Alternatively, you can visit the region’s most beautiful and romantic palaces and parks during the Romantic Masovia tour (prices from €49). Gems of the East is a fascinating trip to the more distant areas of Lu- blin, including a visit to the charming Kazimierz Dolny, unforget table Majdanek and the unique museum in Kozłówka. The one-day tour costs from €43 per person. During th e Treblinka & Tykocin tour you will explore beautiful towns and countryside and visit the site of the Nazi concentration camp in Treblinka. Prices start at €36. The Land of Wilderness is a longer, two-day trip to Białowieża Primeval Forest, one of the last oases of wild nature in Europe. Prices start from €210 per person. Warsaw is the city where 3 of our all-inclusive escorted tours start. Consider our most popular tour, Poland in One Go which covers the major highlights of Poland. During the 7-day tour you will visit Warsaw, Krakow, Wieliczka, Auschwitz and Zakopane. If you feel like spending more time here, we recommend our Grand Tour of Poland, a 12-day excursion. If you are interested in Jewish culture, you shouldn’t miss our Jewish Heritage Tour. All these tours start in Warsaw. If you have any individual enquiries or specific interests concerning your visit please ask our staff which is experienced in creating customised travel arrangements in Warsaw and other Polish cities. Contact us at [email protected]. November 2009 - February 2010 13 NH Poznań Fusion Cinnamon Don Prestige Brovaria Stare Miasto Frolic Goats Cameleon
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