Birds & Beyond in the Republic of
Georgia
Photo: Vardzia Cave Town
April 26 - May 10, 2014
With Chris Leahy
The Republic of Georgia is a small jewel of a country that remains little known to most North Americans.
Squeezed into the isthmus between the Black and Caspian Seas, linking the Russian steppes and the
deserts of the Middle East and crowned by the mighty peaks of the Caucasus, Georgia contains a
wonderful assortment of landscapes and habitats from alpine meadows and moist mountain forests to
Mediterranean macchia steppe, arid grasslands, and a wealth of rivers, lakes, and wetlands. This variety of
habitats results in exceptionally high biodiversity in a small area, with, for example, 380 plant species that
occur nowhere else and 330 resident bird species. Apart from the long list, birding in Georgia offers the
opportunity to see rarely encountered Caucasian and Central Asian specialties such as Caucasian
Snowcock, Caucasian Black Grouse, Great Rosefinch, and Güldenstädt’s Redstart; 15 or more species of
raptors; a diversity of waterbirds from pelicans to shorebirds; a marvelous variety of Eurasian passerines;
and a sprinkling of very local species such as Red-fronted Serin and Crimson-winged Finch. In addition
to its fascinating natural history, Georgia boasts a rich cultural heritage including beautifully preserved
churches from the early Christian era and a complex of ancient cave monasteries, not to mention a
continuing tradition of great food and wine. We will spend two weeks exploring the less traveled (but
generally well-maintained) roads of Georgia, starting and ending in the charming capital, Tbilisi, and
branching out to all points of the compass.
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Georgia ~ April – May, 2014
DAY-TO-DAY ITINERARY
Day 1 – Saturday, April 26th: Depart USA
Depart USA on flights to Tbilisi, connecting via a
European gateway. Meals: In flight
Day 2 – Sunday, April 27th: Arrive Tbilisi
Most arrivals will be late tonight or early next morning.
Upon arrival in Tbilisi, we will transfer to the hotel for
immediate check-in. Meals: In flight
Betsy's Hotel: The beautifully decorated boutique inn,
Betsy’s Hotel stands between Mount Mtatsminda and
Rustaveli Avenue in Tbilisi's center. Rooms include floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the city, airconditioning or ceiling fans, cable TV, bar, and restaurant. (2 nights)
Day 3 – Monday, April 28th: Tbilisi
Today, we’ll get to know Tbilisi, Georgia’s gorgeous capital city, on a combination walking and driving
tour. Georgia’s geographical location and strip of central lowlands has long made it an important link
between East and West, and a popular flyway for migrating birds. Tbilisi is set at the mouth of this
passageway in the Kura (Mt’k’vari) River valley, and has changed hands many times. Arabs ruled the city
for 400 years before King David the Builder defeated them in 1121 and moved his capital here from
Kutaisi (now Georgia’s second largest city). This Georgian king fostered tolerance for Tbilisi’s Arab
population, and the city still has a multiethnic atmosphere.
In the morning, we will head to the area around Lisi Lake, set in a rocky landscape on the outskirts of
Tbilisi and surrounded by scrub vegetation and grassland. Wetland species such as Grey Heron, Little
Bittern, and grebes find the lake to their liking, and raptors such as Western Marsh Harrier and Lesser
Spotted Eagle may be seen overhead. In the arid surroundings, we may find Eurasian Hoopoe, Spanish
Sparrow, Black-headed Bunting, and several species of shrikes and wheatears.
This afternoon, we will explore the 4th century Narikala Fortress, which seems to grow from the rock
above the city of Tbilisi, keeping watch on the narrowest part of the Kura River. The 8th century Arab
occupiers of the city used the fortress’ strategic location to defend their position in Tbilisi, adding to the
original foundations. The citadel overlooks the Central Botanical Gardens and is a great place to watch for
resident and migrating birds such as European Honey Buzzard and Common and Alpine Swifts.
We hope to have time for a brief stroll along Rustaveli Avenue, the city’s main street, with its elaborately
carved wooden balconies attached to the houses in the Old Town, a feature of the city's architectural
landscape that often appears in paintings. This evening, we will have our welcome dinner at one of the
city’s best restaurants, featuring special Georgian entertainment.
Day 4 – Tuesday, April 29th: Tbilisi • drive to Mtskheta, Ananuri, Gudauri, Kazbegi
Today, we will embark on an exploration of the Georgian Military Highway, completed by Czar
Alexander I in 1817. The czar’s engineers simply enlarged a track that had been used since at least 150
Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society
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Georgia ~ April – May, 2014
BC as the only north-south route through the Greater Caucasus from Russia to Georgia. It is also a worldrenowned birding route.
The highway climbs out of Tbilisi through
rolling green hills and heads into steep
arid mountains through gorges cut by
glaciers to the Krestovy Pass at almost
8,000 feet. Along the way, herds of sheep
may spill across the road and old fortresslike churches watch over the villages. At
lower elevations, we should see Steppe
Buzzards, European Bee-eaters, and Redbilled Choughs. A stop at the Krestovy
Pass area promises Twite, White-winged
Snowfinch, Shore Lark, and Alpine
Accentor – and with luck our first
Caucasian Black Grouse. On cliffs and
ledges, we’ll look for Eurasian Kestrel,
Eurasian Griffon Vulture, and Eurasian Crag Martin.
Caucasian Black Grouse
Along this historic route, we will stop and visit Mtskheta, the capital of the eastern Georgian kingdom of
Iberia from the 3rd century BC until the 5th century AD and one of the oldest continuously inhabited
cities in the world. Georgia’s conversion to Christianity took place here in 337 AD. The Eastern
Orthodox churches built during this period – including Svetitskhoveli Cathedral with its impressive
murals – are among the finest in the country.
Continuing our journey, we will head to the Ananuri fortress complex, built by the dukes of the Aragvi
Valley in the 17th century. Below the fortress at the foot of the green hills, gleams the blue expanse of
Zhinvali Reservoir, making this one of Georgia’s most beautiful places. Birds we may spot from this
perch include Golden Eagle, Water Pipit, and Caucasian Chiffchaff. By evening, we’ll arrive in Kazbegi,
prime high mountain habitat where small changes in elevation can mean significant changes in bird
species. Dinner will be at the hotel, and the rest of the evening we’ll be free to relax and explore.
Hotel Rooms Kazbegi - Located at the foot of Mt.
Kazbeg, the Rooms Kazbegi hotel features a restaurant
serving international cuisine, a lobby bar with a library,
and a terrace with a view of the mountain. Rooms include
air conditioning, cable TV, and complimentary WiFi. (3
nights)
Day 5 – Wednesday, April 30th: Kazbegi
(Stepantsminda)
At over 6,000 feet, Kazbegi is a small alpine village set in
a great bowl surrounded by mountain peaks, including the
Caucasus’ highest, Mt. Kazbek. We will spend the next
two days birding the various montane habitats of this
spectacular area. Among the specialties we hope to find
are: Twite, Lammergeier, Levant Sparrowhawk, and (a Holy Grail bird!) Caucasian Snowcock.
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Georgia ~ April – May, 2014
Wallcreepers may be seen on the sheer rock faces as well as the predictable Red-billed and Yellow-billed
Choughs wheeling noisily overhead. At the snowline, we can expect Black Redstart, Red-fronted Serin,
and, depending on snowmelt, Güldenstädt’s (White-winged) Redstart and Great Rosefinch. This area is
the only Western Palearctic locale for the latter two species.
Day 6 – Thursday, May 1st: Kazbegi
Following breakfast at the hotel, we will have a full day of birding, starting with a climb toward the 14th
century Tsminda Sameba (Holy Trinity) Church for another day in search of local Caucasian birds. In
particular, we’ll explore the high alpine meadows for the prized Caucasian Black Grouse. Rocky areas
promise further chances for Güldenstäd’s Redstart and Great Rosefinch. And in the scrub lining the valley
bottoms, we’ll seek out Mountain Chiffchaff, Green Warbler, Red-backed Shrike, Red-throated Pipit,
Yellow Wagtail, and Ortolan Bunting. Down lower in the more cultivated grassland habitat, there may be
Whinchat, Spotted Flycatcher, and Lesser Grey Shrike.
Day 7 – Friday, May 2nd: Kazbegi • drive to Tbilisi
This morning, we’ll travel back down the Georgian
Military Highway to Tbilisi, stopping to scan wherever the
habitat looks promising. Oak and beech woods may harbor
the Green Warbler, Red-breasted Flycatcher, and possibly
the Semi-collared Flycatcher. Lakes en route support
wetland birds including White-winged, Black, and Gullbilled Terns. Dinner this evening will be at a local
restaurant in Tbilisi.
Betsy's Hotel or similar (1 night)
Mountain Chiffchaff
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Georgia ~ April – May, 2014
rd
Day 8 – Saturday, May 3 : Tbilisi • drive to Chachuna Nature Reserve
Setting out east from Tbilisi, the foothills and broadleaf forests thin out and are replaced by a wide belt of
fertile land dotted with orchards and filled with the songs of Golden Orioles, Common Nightingales, and
several species of warblers among other songbirds. The farmland gradually becomes more arid and turns
to rolling grasslands, hosting such “new” bird species as Montagu’s Harrier, Calandra and Crested Larks,
and Isabelline, Pied, and Eastern Black-eared Wheatears as the road leads further east.
Chachuna has one of the largest communities of breeding birds in the Caucasus. The European Bee-eater,
European Roller, and Eurasian Hoopoe regularly raise their young on cliffs and steep banks and in tree
holes here.
The Chachuna Managed Nature Reserve covers almost 13,000 acres in the extreme southeast of Georgia
near the border with Azerbaijan. This semidesert plateau attracts a wide range of birds – including 10 that
are on Georgia’s endangered list. The reserve also encompasses 60-acre wetlands along the Iori River that
support reed and cane beds. The swiftly changing landscape presents a striking diversity of flora and
fauna.
Nature Reserve Cottages: Located in the Chachuna Nature Reserve in the Kakheti region of Georgia, the
Nature Reserve cottages offer modest and cozy, comfortable accommodations while exploring the reserve.
There are nine rooms total at the facility, two singles, and seven twin-bedded rooms, each with
WC/shower. (2 nights)
Day 9 – Sunday, May 4th: Chachuna
This will be a full birding day in this very distinctive habitat. Here we will look for characteristic species
such as Black Francolin, Cinereous Vulture, Eastern Imperial Eagle, Lesser Short-toed Lark, Rock
Nuthatch, Eastern Orphean and Menetries’s Warblers, Rufous Bush Robin, and Finsch’s Wheatear. We
might also encounter Short-toed and Booted Eagles, European Nightjar, Greater Short-toed Lark, and
Eurasian Penduline Tit.
Day 10 – Monday, May 5th: drive to Tbilisi via David Gareja
Today, on the way back to Tbilisi, we will drive through Mediterranean-type arid landscape of multicolored clay hills covered with shrubby steppe vegetation. This area hosts both historical and birding
attractions. Here we will visit breeding colonies of Eurasian Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, nesting
Imperial Eagle, Chukar, European Roller, Blue Rock Thrush, and possibly large aggregations of European
Bee-eaters and Rose-colored Starlings. Other
possibilities include Long-legged Buzzard,
Eurasian Kestrel, Cinereous Vulture, Eurasian
Sparrowhawk, and Saker Falcon. Passerines may
include Calandra Lark, Rufous Bush Robin
Isabelline Wheatear, Willow Warbler, Eastern
Orphean Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat, Rock
Nuthatch, Woodchat Shrike, and Black-headed
Bunting.
We may also visit a Cave Monastery founded by
David Gareja in the 6th century AD when he
made his home in a natural cave above the silent
desert. By the 12th century, over 2,000 monks
lived here. It was known for its distinctive school
Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society
208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773
800-289-9504
Georgia ~ April – May, 2014
of fresco painting and manuscript illumination. The monks would heat the sandstone, then pour water on
it to break it off the cave walls in chunks. In this fashion, they created cells, refectories, storerooms, and
chapels, which they decorated with their distinctive pastel frescoes.
Sacked and looted by the Mongols in the 13th century, the monastery was just beginning to revive itself
when Tamerlane’s armies overran it in the 14th century. Some of the worst destruction in several of the
monasteries was caused in recent years by the Soviet army, which used the area as an artillery range
because of its physical similarities to Afghanistan. Return to Tbilisi. Dinner and lodging in Tbilisi, at the
now familiar, Betsy’s Hotel (1 night)
Day 11 – Tuesday, May 6th: Tbilisi drive to Akhaltsikhe via Gori, Uplistsikhe
We will head to Akhaltsikhe after breakfast. As we travel, the terrain will change from open meadow to
steeper mountains. En route, we’ll explore the town of Gori and the nearby cave town of Uplistsikhe,
stopping to scan for birdlife as the climate and terrain transition. Depending on time, we may stop at
Nadarbazevi Lake in the Gori district to look for waterbirds.
Gori is best known for its connection with Joseph Stalin, who was born here in December 1879 and lived
here until 1883. Stalin's father
was a local shoemaker named
Vissarion Dzhugashvili. The
family’s original wooden hut
on Stalin Prospekt is today the
Stalin House Museum. On the
grounds of the museum is
Stalin's private railway car,
used to carry him in style
throughout the Soviet Union.
After lunch, we’ll stop along
the banks of the Kura River at
the cave town of Uplistsikhe,
meaning “Lord's Castle,”
which was once one of the
most important towns along
the trade route linking
Byzantium with India and China, and was primarily inhabited by artisans and merchants. People may
have populated the naturally-occurring caves here before 1000 BC.
The volcanic terrain where the caves are located, called the Kvernaki Ridge, has been (and may still be!) a
nesting site of the Imperial Eagle, listed on the IUCN Red List.We will arrive in Akhaltsikhe, located on
both banks of the small Potskhovi River and surrounded with rolling pastureland and semi-arid hills, for
dinner and overnight.
Hotel Bonadea (4 nights). Built in 2009, the 20-room Hotel Bonadea features a restaurant serving
traditional Georgian food and wine. All rooms have TVs, air conditioners, and free WiFi.
Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society
208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773
800-289-9504
Georgia ~ April – May, 2014
Day 12 – Wednesday, May 7th: day trip to Vardzia, Rabati
In the morning, we’ll head to Vardzia in search of the imposing Lammergeier as well as Short-toed
Snake-eagle, Blue Rock Thrush, Eurasian Crag Martin, and other species characteristic of this semiarid
Mediterranean-type environment. European Bee-eaters and Hoopoes are common.
Twelfth century King Giorgi III began digging the caves at Vardzia as a stronghold against the Turks.
Giorgi’s daughter, Queen Tamara, completed the complex and transformed it into a monastic center. Over
time, earthquakes have altered the layout of the 3,000 caves and corridors that existed in Tamara’s time.
Frescoes in the caves that remain represent the pinnacle of the Golden Age of Georgian painting; among
them are portraits of King Giorgi and Queen Tamara.
In the afternoon, we may explore the Old Town of Akhaltsikhe, called Rabati. The newly renovated
Rabati sits on a hill with great views above the town, surrounded by ramparts and towers. Originally built
in the 9th century, the complex includes examples of the many civilizations that have passed through this
region. We will admire the medieval and early modern Christian, Jewish, and Islamic buildings as well as
some old darbazebi, traditional Georgian houses.
Day 13 – Thursday, May 8th: Akhaltsikhe • The Javakheti Plain
The Javakheti Plateau is a mountain grassland area in southern Georgia, along the border with Armenia
and Turkey. The lakes and their surroundings
support breeding populations of many waterbird
and grassland species, including such global
rarities as Dalmatian Pelican, White-headed Duck,
and Sociable Plover.
We will spend the day birding the lakes of
Khanchali, Madatapa, and Gogasheni. In this area,
we can find an abundance of aquatic and wetlands
birds such as Corncrake, Western Marsh and
Montagu’s Harriers, Common Crane, Dalmatian
and Great White Pelicans, Terek and Marsh
Sandpipers, Great Black-headed Gull (aka Pallas’s
Gull), Eurasian Spoonbill, and many other species
of waterfowl, wading birds, and shorebirds. If time and energies allow, an optional climb up the volcanic
mountains of Javakheti may be rewarded with views of Crimson-winged Finch and (if very lucky)
Radde’s Accentor. The villages in the area are the most important nesting sites of White Storks in the
Caucasus.
Day 14 – Friday, May 9th:
We will continue exploring the fantastic Javakheti Plain this morning. Then, reluctantly, return to Tbilisi
in the afternoon, stopping along the way at some of the different lakes to survey the landscape for birds.
Our farewell dinner this evening will be a traditional Georgian feast at a local restaurant. A Georgian
Table experience can last quite a while, with lots of dishes and countless toasts. The table will be covered
with plates of delicacies balanced on top of each other – chicken in crushed walnut sauce, hatchapuri (a
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Georgia ~ April – May, 2014
savory cheese pie), puff pastries, little meat dumplings called khinkali, salads, and marinated vegetables,
just to name a few. Good food and wine are the center of Georgian hospitality.
Betsy’s Hotel
Day 15 – Saturday, May 10th: Depart Tbilisi
Following breakfast, the tour will conclude with transfers to the airport.
Meals: B
PRICE: $5775 - based on double occupancy, Single supplement is $600
(Cost based on a minimum of 10 people)
A $500 per person deposit is required along with the reservation form.
Price Includes:
Does Not Include:
All accommodations
All meals as noted in itinerary
Group airport transfers
Entrance fees
Services of local naturalist guide and driver
All tips and gratuities
Special Cultural performances
Bottles/purified water
•
•
•
•
•
International airfare
Items of a personal nature
Porterage, laundry, phone calls, or gift items
Airport departure taxes
Beverages from the bar
Travel Arrangements: You, the traveler, are responsible for booking and paying for your own international
flights. Once you reserve your space, we will provide you with suggested flights and tell you which flights our
leaders will be on. You may book flights directly with the airline, online, or with a travel agent.
About Your Guide:
Christopher Leahy currently holds the Gerard A. Bertrand Chair of Natural History and Field
Ornithology at Mass Audubon. He has been a professional conservationist for more than thirty
years and served as Director of Mass Audubon’s Center for Biological Conservation. His
published works include Birdwatcher's Companion to North American Birdlife, The First Guide to
Insects, Introduction to New England Birds, An Introduction to Massachusetts Insects, and The
Nature of Massachusetts. He is also the editor of a series of authoritative books on the flora and
fauna of New England. Chris has designed and led natural history explorations to over 70 countries
on all of the continents. He is especially fascinated with the world's great remaining wilderness
areas and biodiversity hot spots such as Gabon, Madagascar, and Mongolia. He grew up in Marblehead and has
lived in Gloucester with his family since the 1970s.
Our thanks for all photos by Rudy Esschliman, Giorgi Darchiashvili, Giorgi Rajebashvili, MIR Corporation
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Georgia ~ April – May, 2014
TERMS & CONDITIONS
APPLICATIONS, RESERVATIONS, DEPOSITS: Early applications are strongly encouraged. Trip rosters usually must
be finalized 4 months before departure! All applications must be accompanied by a completed reservation form and a $500
per person deposit. Deposits can be by check or credit card (Visa or MasterCard). We reserve the right to decline your
application. In the case of questionable health, we reserve the right to require a physician’s certification to affirm you are
capable of the activities. Final payment is due 90 days before the departure date. Final payment must be by check or money
order.
RATES: All tour prices are based on double occupancy. If you would like us to find you a roommate, we will do our best,
but cannot guarantee a share. If we cannot find a share, you will need to pay the single supplement. All forms and fares are
accurate at the time of publication, July 2013, but are subject to change at any time prior to departure. It is our policy to only
pass on the actual amount of any increases in airfares or land costs such as those increases due to the devaluation of the
dollar. Rarely, a price increase may be called for if the group falls below the minimum, as listed in the itinerary.
FLIGHTS: You, the traveler, are responsible for booking and paying for your own international flights. We will
provide you with suggested flights and tell you which flights our leaders will take. You may book flights directly with the
airline or with a travel agent. Please be aware that most tickets are non-refundable, therefore you should not book your flight
arrangements until you have checked with us to be sure the tour has the minimum number of participants for the trip to go.
We ask that you provide us with your flight details so we can be sure to meet you at the airport upon your arrival.
PHOTOS: Mass Audubon reserves the right to make use of any photograph taken on the tour. We guarantee that no photos
of a comprising nature will be used. If you have questions or concerns, please contact us.
TRIP INSURANCE: A brochure and application for optional trip cancellation, illness and baggage insurance will be sent to
you upon registrations. We strongly recommend that you purchase trip cancellation insurance to protect yourself. Mass
Audubon does provide Medical Evacuation Coverage as part of the tour price.
CANCELLATION Policy: If you need to change your booking, you must inform us immediately in writing. All
cancellations must be done in writing and are effective upon receipt in the Massachusetts Audubon Travel Office.
Cancellations received up to 121 days prior to departure will be refunded deposits less a $300 per person fee. For
cancellations between 120 and 90 days prior to departure, all deposits will not be refunded. There are no refunds for
cancellations 90 days or less from departure. We strongly urge all travelers to purchase trip cancellation insurance. You will
be sent information from the Massachusetts Audubon Society upon receipt of your deposit.
Your Responsibility: Although every precaution is taken to safeguard you and your belongings, group travel trips by their
nature involve a certain amount of risk. Trip participants should understand that the domestic and international trips
sponsored/operated by Massachusetts Audubon Society (Mass Audubon Tours) - hereafter collectively “M.A.S.” - involve
known and unknown risks. M.A.S. assumes no responsibility for injuries, death, financial losses or damage to clients’
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in place adequate insurance to cover any injury, damage or emergency transportation costs related to their travel and/or
participation in trip activities and/or to bear the costs of such injury, damage or emergency transportation costs. Because of
the risks associated with the travel trips sponsored by M.A.S. we urge all trip participants to supplement their own insurance
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assume these risks by reading and signing an M.A.S. Release and Waiver and Assumption of Risk contract prior to departure.
CONDITIONS OF TRAVEL: Travelers will be provided with an itinerary and trip preparation information. It is expected
that travelers will read this information prior to trip departure. Travelers will be responsible for completing an application
reservation form, including the personal information and a release of liability. Travelers will be expected to abide by the terms
set for in the invoice. During the tour, travelers are asked to respect and follow the directions of their guide and leader.
Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society
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Georgia ~ April – May, 2014
Reservation Form: Georgia April 26 – May 10, 2014
Passenger 1 Name as shown on passport:
Nickname for Name tag: _________________________________ Date of Birth: _________________________
Passenger 2 Name as shown on passport:
Nickname for Name tag: _________________________________ Date of Birth: _________________________
Address: _________________________________________________________________________________
City: _________________________________________ State:________ Zip:________________________
Daytime Phone:__________________________________Evening: ____________________________
Email address:_______________________________________________________________________________
Room Preferences:
_____I request single accommodations where available and will pay the single supplement.
_____I would like to be assigned a roommate. If one is not available, I will pay the single supplement.
Personal Information:
___I/We are non-smokers. (If you are a smoker(s), please check here___ and note that smoking is limited to
outdoors in non-group spaces)
___Is there anything Mass Audubon should know about your health that might impact your ability to participate
comfortably on this trip? Please describe: __________________________________________________________
Deposit:
____ Please find my enclosed check deposit of $500 per person: Checks should be made payable to “Massachusetts
Audubon Society”
____ Please charge my credit card:
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________________________________________________________________________________________
Signature
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