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thebacklabel
Eastern
Bloc Party
w i n e a w e s o m e n e s s . c o m
Communism’s
Best Kept
Secret
From the WA crew
O n N ove m b e r 9, 1 9 89 t h e Berl i n Wal l was
h a c ke d to p ie ce s, o f f ic i al l y d estroyi ng the
b o rd e r b etwe e n Co m m uni st East G erm any
a n d A lly- b a c ke d We st Germ any. But
t h e m a u e r fa l l n o t o n ly pul l ed down the
B e r lin Wa ll, it a lso m a r ked the co l l apse
o f t h e U SS R it se lf. A ll t ho se co untri es
t h at b e c a m e S ov iet S o ci al i st Rep ub l i c s
o r ‘sate llite st ate s’ to Russi a af ter WWII
wo u ld so o n g a in t h e ir ind ependence
a n d c a r ve o u t n ew n at io nal i d enti ti es.
S love n ia a n d Cro at ia e merged o ut o f
w h at wa s o n ce Yu g o slavi a, whi l e nati o ns
like H u n g a r y a n d G e o rgi a d i tc hed thei r
S o c ia list Re p u b lic g overnments to o.
One could study the collapse of Communism for
years and still not know what the hell happened.
In order to fully appreciate the ways in which the
melting of the Cold War impacted global politics
we’d have to devote a hefty part of our lives to the
topic. We’re not going to pretend that we’ve done
that. But, we have focused in on a tiny piece of the
puzzle. What is it? Wine? Good guess.
When the so-called Iron Curtain fell, people started
to realize that some damn good wines had been
hiding behind it. When we say people, we don’t
just mean people in the United States and Western
Europe, we mean like... everyone. Suddenly- or so
it seemed -delicious wines were being made in
surprising places like Slovenia, Croatia, Hungary
and Georgia.
But here’s the thing, wine isn’t new to Eastern
Europe at all... people were making wine in modern
day Georgia 8,000 years ago. The WTF-worthy
tastiness of these wines is appreciated by so few
because hardly anyone had access to them for
such a long time.
In communist economies like those of Yugoslavia
and Hungary, wine production happened
through large cooperatives. Private ownership
of vineyards was highly discouraged, and very
rare. Government officials would contact the
cooperatives and tell them how much to make
based on their facts and figures. Needless to say,
this made the life of winemakers tricky.
The myth is that because these winemakers
were forced to produce such large quantities
of wine for their comrades in the republic,
they stopped making wines of any real quality.
True, the quality of the wines produced for
the republic was often poor. But winemakers
in the Eastern Bloc didn’t stop making great
wine by any means... they just kept it all for
themselves! Only now (about 25 years after the
fall of the Iron Curtain) are these delectable and
historically significant wines stepping out of
small villages and winemaker’s cellars onto the
world’s stage.
We here at Wine Awesomeness are not
historians, economists, philosophers or
politicians, but we are very very happy that
the cookie of history has crumbled in such a
way that these wines have finally made their
way West, where we can drink them all night
and day!
What the ‘Fošk?
2013 Santomas Refošk
Csersze gi Fü szeres . S ap eravi . L aš k i R i zl in g . Plava c Ma li.
Csabagyöng ye. M us kat O tto nel . Grün er Ve lt lin e r. Rave n e c . Re fo šk.
No, the se aren ’t t he n am es o f myt hi cal w iz a rd s. Th e se a re t h e
name s of t he g rap es you ’re ab o ut to t aste fo r t h e f ir st t im e.
Refošk
Štajerska, Slovenia
Daydreaming of meat
BY PETER EASTLAKE
Balsamic Feta Polenta Toasts
A winding vinous rail passes through Slovenia, Hungary, Croatia, Georgia, and
Austria. It brings with it liter bottles (someone say 40’s!) full of amazing small batch
juice you can’t even pronounce the name of. Raise your hand if you’ve tasted or even
heard of these grapes before. Come on, out of Saperavi again?! No Plavac Mali with
your Be Bim Bop? What the ‘fošk, man!
Beirut- Mount Wroclai (Idle Days)
Listen, I’ve been tasting wine daily for twenty years and this selection fires me
up. It reminds me just how exciting a time it is to be a wine drinker. Imagine a
chilled red with a mouthful of paprika sausage (in its homeland) or fried anchovies
straight from the sea. Now picture big bubbly and harp-plucking angels from the
wine heavens floating on clouds of a sugary Muskat. Think Hungarian fizz and salty
Adriatic air. These textures and tastes will teach your tongue a lil’ something new.
But these grapes didn’t come out of nowhere, they’re as old and wise as they
are new and exciting to western winos. The reds of the Georgian monks are opaque,
flavorful and ancient... like, pre-Roman Empire. When you’re tasting Plavac Mali,
you’re tasting the kissing cousins of grapes like Zinfandel and Primitivo. We’ll take
the cradle of vinification over the cradle of civilization any day.
She’s light on the eye, but this luscious liter of Slovenian Refošk wins
first place for big satisfaction at the dinner table. A little something
savory meets white pepper and smoked paprika to add a delicious
third dimension. It’s a flavor combination that's hard to capture in
words, and even harder to stop drinking. Hint: drink it cool to let the
fresh red fruits soar.
Meaty and smoky, but surprisingly
and seriously refreshing
A delightfully complex coupling
of pepper and tart red fruit
Balsamic Feta Polenta Toasts
It’s simple, Eastern Europe is a patchwork of the coolest and wackiest sounding
grapes you need to try right now. Throw away all your preconceived notions of what
makes a grape great, because it’s Eastern Bloc Party time. These juicy treasures will
treat you right so long as you bring a corkscrew (and a bottle opener), a big ‘ole
appetite and your coolest discovery hat. Believe you me, history has never been
so damn new tasting.
Without further ado... get to know the grapes!
Saperavi
Grüner Veltliner
There’s a reason Saperavi is Georgian
for "paint” or “dye." This juice is inky,
opaque, and intense. Plus, it’s one of the
oldest red wine grapes in the world.
“Grü-vee” as it is affectionately called,
is the most important grape varietal in
Austria. It makes bracing white wines
with signature lime, mint, and white
pepper flavors.
Plavac Mali
The “little blue” grape is Italian Primitivo
and California Zinfandel’s favorite
cousin. It’s nothing if not easy to love,
with fresh red-fruited charms and a
food-friendly balance.
Muskat Ottonel
There is no better smelling grape than
those in the Muscat /Muskat / Moscato
family. Those exotic whiffs of gardenia,
ruby grapefruit, and nectarines are
virtually irresistible. Add bubbles to that
hedonistic party (ahem.. Törley Bubbly)
and it's unstoppable.
Refošk
Known as Refosco by the Italians, this
ancient Istrian red grape has a real gulpy
red fruit character and smoky, paprika
inflections. Refošk grapes have been
helping people blissfully wash down
anchovies and meat since the 1500's.
INGREDIENTS
3 cups water • 3/4 teaspoon salt • 1 cup dry polenta • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 2 tablespoons
butter • Cooking spray • 1 teaspoon minced garlic • 2 cups vertically sliced onion • 1 thyme sprig
• 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar • 1/4 cup chopped bottled roasted red bell peppers • 2 ounces
fetacheese, crumbled • 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
DIRECTIONS
Bring 3 cups water and 1/2 teaspoon salt to a boil in a medium saucepan. Gradually add polenta,
stirring constantly with a whisk. Reduce heat to low, and cook 20 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon oil
and 1 tablespoon butter. Spoon polenta into a ceramic baking dish coated with cooking spray. Press
plastic wrap onto surface of polenta; chill 2 hours or until firm. Heat a large skillet over medium-high
heat. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining 1 tablespoon butter; swirl to coat. Add garlic;
sauté 15 seconds. Add remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, onion, and thyme sprig; sauté 3 minutes or until
onion begins to soften. Reduce heat to low; cook 30 minutes or until onion is very tender, stirring
frequently. Add vinegar; cook 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Discard thyme sprig. Cut chilled polenta
into 16 squares. Cut each square in half diagonally. Heat a skillet over medium heat. Lightly coat
polenta triangles with cooking spray. Add 16 triangles to pan; cook 5 minutes on each side or until
lightly browned. Divide onion mixture, bell pepper, and feta evenly among triangles. Garnish with
thyme leaves.
2012 Dingač Vinarija Plavac
2012 Teliani Valley Saperavi
Plavac Mali
Saperavi
Pelješac Peninsula, Croatia
Teliani Valley, Georgia
Collecting seashells by the seashore
binge Watching the History channel
Oysters on the Half Shell
Beer Braised Beef Stew
Django Reinhardt- Minor Swing
The Beatles- Back in the U.S.S.R
Plavac Mali (the best thing to come out of Dalmatia since spotted
puppies) is Zinfandel’s close cousin. But don't let that fool you... this
ain’t a lusty fruit bomb. On the contrary, Plavac hangs more with its
other cousin Primitivo who lives in Italy, just a quick sail across the
Adriatic away. Think crushed red fruits with a bit of salami on the nose,
and in your mouth.
Saperavi is one of the only red grapes that literally has red juice. To
use wine-geek speak, she’s a bona fide teinturier, baby... and she’s
as inky as she is tasty. You may have to brush twice after a Saperavi
session, but you’ll do so knowing that Georgian monks have been
rocking this juice for millennia. Who cares about Syrah from Santa
Barbara when there's pre-historic stuff on the table as good as this?
Vick’s menthol rub meets a handful
of freshly picked herbs
Crushed rose petals, plums and
wild berries galore
Gulpably light bodied with
grains of salty beach air
Elegant in that luscious
and juicy kind of way
Oysters on the Half Shell
INGREDIENTS
Stop by your local fish market and pick up 2 dozen of the freshest oysters in stock. This red wine is
one of the few that perfectly pairs with oysters. Deck out the deliciousness on a platter and serve
with these 3 dipping sauces.
DIRECTIONS
Mignonette Sauce: 2/3 cup champagne vinegar or white-wine vinegar • 2 tablespoons finely diced
shallot • 2 teaspoons freshly ground pepper, or more to taste.
Cocktail Sauce: 1 cup ketchup • 2 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish • Dash of hot pepper sauce •
Dash of Worcestershire sauce • 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice.
Spicy Ginger Lime Relish: 2 cups fresh lime juice • 3/4 cup fresh orange juice • 2 tablespoons minced
ginger • 1 tablespoon minced garlic • 1 tablespoon honey • 1/2 cup minced shallots • 2 tablespoons
coarsely chopped cilantro • 3 limes, segmented • 1 tablespoon lime zest • Salt and freshly
ground pepper.
Beer Braised Beef Stew
INGREDIENTS
3 Tablespoons Olive Oil • 1 Tablespoon Butter • 2 pounds Stew Meat • 1 whole Medium Onion, Diced
• 3 cloves Garlic, Minced • 1 can (12 Oz. Size) Beer • 4 cups Beef Stock (or 4 Cups Water + 4 Beef
Bouillon Cubes) • 2 cups Water (additional, If Needed) • 1 Tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce • 2
Tablespoons Tomato Paste • 1/2 teaspoon Paprika • 1/2 teaspoon Kosher Salt • Freshly Ground Black
Pepper • 1-1/2 teaspoon Sugar • 4 whole Carrots, Washed, Unpeeled, And Roughly Sliced • 4 whole •
New Potatoes, Quartered • Minced Parsley (optional)
DIRECTIONS
Heat oil and butter in a large pot over medium-high heat. Brown meat in two batches. Set aside.
Add diced onions. Stir and cook for two or three minutes. Add garlic. Pour in beer and beef stock.
Add Worcestershire, tomato paste, paprika, salt, pepper, and sugar. Add beef back into the pot. Stir
to combine. Cover and simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
Add carrots and potatoes, then cover and cook for an additional 30 minutes.
Serve with your favorite crusty bread.
All things eastern.
We h a d a c hance to c atc h up wi th Stetso n Ro b b i ns:
q u a lity d ude, fo nt o f k nowl ed g e and S al es M anager
ove r at B lue D anube Wine Co.’s east co ast center
o f o p e rati o ns.
Blue Danube Wine Co. is the importer that championed Central and
Eastern European wines long before they were cool. Bearing that
in mind, we think it’s safe to say Stetson is as close to an Eastern
European wine connoisseur as it gets. (He also recommended a great
jerk chicken place in Brooklyn to us, so we know he’s trustworthy!)
Q+A
with blue danube wine co's
\ Stetson Robbins \
We asked Stetson some questions about Eastern Europe, the
incredible wine growing regions thereabouts and some random stuff
having to do with optimism and Batman. Here’s what he had to say:
Do winemakers and drinkers in Eastern Europe
view wine differently? In general, Europeans view wine as
less precious. It’s just part of the table, like bread. I think in Central and
Eastern Europe this quality is even stronger. The wines reflect this,
they tend to be extremely food friendly, often as savory as they are
fruity and perhaps even salty or lightly bitter.
Why has it taken so long for these wines to
reach the American market? It hasn't really. They’ve been
here, but mainly in ethnic shops and restaurants. What has changed
in the last 25 years is economic. The re-introduction of the private
market [overseas] has allowed private producers to re-establish
themselves. Wine evolves similarly to fashion, but slower. These areas
are just hitting their stride. Given more time it will keep getting better.
Who wins in a fight: Batman or Spiderman? I can't
say, but I would rather drink wine with Bruce Wayne.
What is your favorite Eastern European phrase?
The wines of the Dalmatian coast literally taste like an Adriatic shore.
"Friškina" is what I use to describe that briny note that defines my
favorite Dalmatian wines. It was told to me by a Croatian, but in
trying to use it I have discovered it's not commonly used. It may not
be totally real, but it represents the essence of place that permeates
Dalmatian wine. I wish there were more words like this.
Is the wine world really as pretentious as
people seem to think? No, the wine world has never been so
open. This is probably the best time in all of human history to drink
wine. Quality and access are at an all time high. What makes a wine
exceptional is changing. The wine world is becoming more and more
like the art or music world. It's not enough for wine to be good, it has
to be original.
Is the glass half full, or half empty? Who cares?
Drink up!
Törley Fortuna NV
Mukcat
Etyek-Buda, Hungary
The sunniest afternoon ever
Breakfast Apple Granola Crisp
D'Angelo- Sugah Daddy
Nobody got nothin’ on this blingy gold sparkler from Hungary. Its
orange blossomy bubbles carry a fragrance so alluring that resistance
is futile. Despite the big fruit blast, bubbles and citrus keep this party
from getting busted. Sweet toothers will get their fix no doubt, but
this is a wine that puts deliciousness over sweetness. Folks, it’s a
morning, noon, and night wine- with emphasis on morning.
Spice, blossom and tropical fruit
Double the bubbles! Enjoy your
stay in Effervescence City
Breakfast Apple Granola Crisp
WA’s Emergency
Phrasebook:
How to Say "Cheers" in
Eastern Europe
Croatian: Živjeli (“Zhee-ve-lee”)
Slovenian: Na zdravje (“Naz-drah-vee”)
Georgian : გაუმარჯოს - (“Gaumarjos”)
Hungarian: Egészségedre - (“Egg-esh ay-ged-reh”)
INGREDIENTS
3 pounds* of whatever apples, or mix of apples, you like to bake with, peeled, cored and cut into
medium chunks • 2 tablespoons lemon juice • 3 tablespoons sugar • 2 tablespoons cornstarch • 1
teaspoon cinnamon • Salt • 1 stick (8 tablespoons or 4 ounces) unsalted butter • 1/4 cup honey • 1/2
cup flour • 2 cups oats • 1/2 cup sliced almonds
DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 400°F.
Mix apple chunks with lemon juice, sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon and pinch of salt in a 9×13-inch
baking dish until apples are evenly coated.
In a medium saucepan, melt the butter with the honey. Stir in the flour, oats, almonds, coconut and
another pinch of salt until clumps form. Sprinkle evenly over the apple mixture and bake in the oven
for about 45 to 55 minutes, or until the apples are softened and bubbly.
2013 Črnko Jaerninčan
2013 Bernreiter Grüner Veltliner
Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Yellow Muscat
Grüner Veltliner
Štajerska, Slovenia
Vienna, Austria
Mowing the lawn for fun
Getting all dressed up
Spicy Drunken Noodles
Austrian Fried Chicken
Gogol Bordello- Alcohol
Franz Schubert- Symphony No. 3 in D Major
Don’t let the pop-top and super-sized format trigger your gimmick
alarm. This Slovenian small village juice is hand harvested by the
family that puts vino on the tables of all the neighborhood joints. A
“kitchen sink” blend of local grapes (plus celebs like Sauvignon Blanc)
it's a perfect aperitif, refresher, or all night long sipper. They drink it
like water in Maribor, Slovenia... oh and in Brooklyn and Oakland too.
It’s no coincidence that Vienna literally means ‘wine.’ This white peach,
citrus, and spearmint studded juice (grown on hills overlooking the
city) gives new meaning to the term urban wine. It’s less austere and
more adventurous than most versions of Grüner... even fermented
with wild yeast for that something extra. But like its more conventional
compatriots it still offers food-friendliness, serious drinkability, and
stays classy until the last drop.
A breezy garden full of
aromatic flowers
Fresh peach cut with citrus
Crisp, clean and thirst quenching
A medium body balanced with acid,
liquid sweet tarts!
Spicy Drunken Noodles
INGREDIENTS
Sauce: 1/4 cup oyster sauce • 1/4 cup fish sauce • 2 Tb. fresh lime juice • 2 Tb. Maggi Sauce (or
Golden Mountain) • 2 Tb. brown sugar
Noodles: 1 lb. DeLallo Egg Noodles (or rice noodles) • 1 lb. chicken breast, sliced into thin bite-size
pieces • 3 eggs, beaten • 1 small onion, peeled and chopped • 4 cloves garlic, minced • 1 - 3 thai
chiles (or 1 - 2 jalapeños) • 1 cup shredded carrots • 1 cup red bell pepper, seeded and sliced thin (I
used multi-colored baby bells) • 1 cup grape tomatoes, halved • 1 cup, loose thai basil leaves • 1 cup
green onion tops, cut into 1 inch pieces • Coconut oil for cooking • Lime wedges for garnish
DIRECTIONS
Mix the sauce together in a small bowl. Use 3 tablespoons of sauce to marinade chicken in separate
bowl. Set aside. Boil a large pot of water and cook the noodles according to the package instructions.
Heat the wok (or a large skillet) to high heat. Add a teaspoon of oil and quickly scramble eggs. Push
the eggs up the side of the wok and add the chopped onions, thai chiles, and garlic. Stir fry for 2
minutes, then add the chicken. Stir fry until just barely cooked through (3-5 minutes) and push the
mixture up the side of the wok. *If using a skillet, transfer the cooked items to a separate dish. Add
the bell peppers and carrots and cook for 2 minutes. Mix all the ingredients and pour the drained
noodles over the top. Add the remaining sauce, thai basil, tomatoes, and green onions. Toss and stir
fry another minute. Then remove from heat and serve warm with lime wedges.
Austrian Fried Chicken
INGREDIENTS
2 butchered chickens • 3 cups flour • 3 cups bread crumbs • 5 eggs (whisked) • Peanut oil • 1 bunch
parsley • Salt
DIRECTIONS
Salt the chicken pieces well, and dredge first in flour then in the whisked eggs and then
the breadcrumbs.
Heat enough oil for deep frying in a pan and wait until it gets to 320F. Put the chicken deep enough
into the hot oil so the chicken swims. Fry for 20–30 minutes. Turn over once so it fries evenly.
About 15 minutes into frying the chicken, salt and bread the liver and add to the frying pan.
Remove the chicken and drain well on kitchen paper. Sprinkle optionally with salt. Briefly fry the
parsley and use to garnish the chicken.
DIY Supra :
Toast Like a Georgian
by HAYES PEEBLES
We’ re ve ry grate ful fo r t h e fact t h at m ost c ul t ures h ave a set o f d r in kin g
a nd eati ng r i tual s. Am eri c an s have b eer p o ng an d b a r b e c u e s, G e r m a n s h ave
O ktober fest and gi ant m aß g l ass es an d t h e l i st g o es o n . A ll t ra d it io n s h ave
t heir merits, but we’ve recent l y d i s covered a Geo rg ia n d r in kin g r it u a l t h at
t rumps the m al l .
The ‘supra’ is the cornerstone of Georgian social gatherings and is undoubtedly the mother of
all wine-fueled traditions. We could spend hours writing about how badly we want to spend
two weeks at supras in Georgia. After all, you can find “bierhalles” and solo cups anywhere...
but where else can you devote hours to toasting and drinking wine out of extravagantly
decorated ram horns? Just follow these steps to throw your own supra and turn toasting into
the art it deserves to be!
1 Acquire a khantsi or ceremonial drinking horn. Khantsi have played a role in the culture
forever. It’s impossible (and rude) to put down a drinking horn without drinking what’s inside,
which is the point. You could use regular glasses, but hey... grab life by the horns.
2 Gather ‘round a tablecloth. So you know, supra means “tablecloth.” Aside from ritual
toasting and drinking, it’s pretty much the only requirement, especially if you’re skimping on
the khantsi.
3 Elect a tamada or toastmaster. Since the tamada’s role is to introduce the subject of each
toast, you’ll want someone who is insightful, rhetorically skilled and can make their mouth
work after drinking four horns worth of wine.
4 Have the tamada and guests fill their khantsi with wine. Wine only! It’s considered a grave
offense to toast with beer,o joke.
5 The tamada will propose a toast, the theme of which is totally up to him or her. A top notch
tamada will be able to tailor toasts to the occasion, but topics can be just about anything.
6 Once the tamada has toasted- usually at length -guests raise their khantsi while the
toastmaster drinks the contents of his/her horn. Guests should keep their khantsi elevated, but
can't drink... yet.
7 Moving counter-clockwise, each guest will add their own thoughts and insight to the topic
that the toastmaster raised. This ain’t a conversation though, it’s a series of toasts on the same
theme. Talking out of turn is a big no no. Don’t incite the tamada’s wrath... those khantsi can
be sharp.
8 Once each guest finishes their toast, they drink their khantsi. Phew. No guest has to speak,
but they must at least finish their khantsi when somebody says something they dig.
9 Toast baby, toast! Following the same delicious format, the tamada will keep coming up with
topics, and you’ll all keep draining your khantsi.
10 Keep in mind, toasting like this can take you places you wouldn’t imagine. Supra have
historically been used to resolve conflicts, find answers to life’s big questions and generally
get everybody feelin’ real celebratory. Common topics at traditional Georgian supras include
God, the motherland, philosophy, ancestors and the saints. Buuuuutttt, if you want
to drink some horns and wax poetic over Breaking Bad, nachos and indie music we
won’t tell.
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