THE WILDLIFE AND CONSERVATION
EFFORTS AT PHU WUA
The major attraction for many tourists in Phu Wua is the
herd of wild elephants that live in the sanctuary. They
number 33 in total at the time of writing (2006). The
elephants have been sighted in many parts of the park, and
are most active in the evenings and at night-time.
There are many other rare and interesting animals who
live in the Wildlife Sanctuary. In addition to the wild
elephants, there are four other species also protected by
the Convention on International Trade in Endangered
Species (CITES).
These are: the Malayan
Sun Bear; the Leopard
Cat; the Golden Cat;
and the Golden
Birdwing (a large gold
and black butterfly with
a wingspan of between
12 and 19 cm).
Taad Mai Kan Waterfall
As part of Phu Wua’s long term conservation plans, there
are four specific survey projects being undertaken
between 2006 and 2010. Top priority is the Elephant
Survey and Management Project. There are also two
projects to increase the populations of Samba Deer and
Gaur (a kind of wild ox with big horns). Last but not least
there is a Survey and Monitoring Project of Population
and Habitat of the Phu Wua Lizard. This brown and
yellow lizard was first discovered as recently as 1992, and
sightings so far have been exclusively within Phu Wua
Wildlife Sanctuary.
Rangers in Phu Wua and local police are fighting a
constant battle against animal smuggling in this part of
Thailand. Several recent stories highlighted the plight of
the Pangolin (also called the Scaly Anteater), which is
found in many parts of Thailand, including Phu Wua.
Pangolins are sometimes hunted in Thailand and illegally
smuggled over the Mekong river to Laos. From there they
are transported to China, where they are used as
ingredients in Chinese medicines. In one case, in 2002,
police intercepted a lorry-load of live Pangolins in Nong
Khai province, and 124 of the animals were re-released
into Phu Wua Wildlife Sanctuary.
ELEPHANT WATCHING
THE VILLAGE OF KHAM PIA
The biggest attraction of Phu Wua must be the herd of wild
elephants that call the sanctuary their home and whose
foot-prints and other markings can often be seen whilst in
the Wildlife Sanctuary. If you are lucky and hear the
elephants nearby while trekking, then do not try and follow
or get close to them - these are wild elephants and can be
very dangerous.
Kham Pia is the nearest village to Phu Wua Wildlife
Sanctuary Headquarters. It has about 160 households and
a population of around 730. In the area surrounding the
village it is common to see local farmers
working in the rice
fields in the rainy
season, or water
buffalo cooling off in a
muddy pool on a hot
summer afternoon. In
fact, about 80% of the
population of Kham
Pia are farmers,
growing rice and fruit,
tending cattle and water buffalo, and working in the rubber
tree plantations in the area.
The safest way of seeing these amazing animals in their
natural environment is from the Tree-house**, close to
Klong Kwan Ranger Station. Elephants come here
regularly to eat vital minerals found in the soil and
consume the vegetation. They are mostly active in the
evenings and at night, so it is recommended that you stay
in the Tree-house overnight to have the best chance of
spotting them.
** The Tree-house is undergoing reconstruction in March 2006.
TREKKING
As well as wildlife, Phu Wua also offers a variety of
trekking opportunities from simple walks to longer treks.
The Nature Trail starting from Phu Wua Headquarters will
take you to the viewpoint above Tham Prai. From here you
can see views of the Mekong river and Snake Mountains
(Phu Ngou) in Laos to the north-east, and across Phu Wua to
the mountain of Phu Thok to the south-west.
Nearby is Lan America, an area
of flat rock which once served as
an emergency landing site for a
Thai army helicopter.
A trek to the many waterfalls of
the park is recommended all year
round. Tham Phra and Chet Si
are the two most famous in the
southern half of the Sanctuary,
while at the northern end the
most well known are Cha Nan
and Tham Foon.
Kham Pia means “Little Tamarind” and is so called because
of the number of Tamarind trees in the village. Visitors will
often be able to taste both the sweet and sour varieties of the
fruit, if they stay overnight in a Home-stay. The people in
this part of Thailand often dip the sour Tamarind in salt,
making it the perfect accompaniment to a glass of “white
whiskey” (a Thai spirit distilled from rice).
Home-stay accommodation is provided in clean and simple
rooms with a mattress, blankets and a mosquito net.
Bathrooms are mostly Thai style. Meals consist of traditional
Thai dishes, and vegetarian options can be provided upon
request.
PRICES per person
Phu Wua guide for trekking**
Phu Wua guide for elephant watching**
Home-stay (accommodation only)
Food at home-stay (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
Tuk-tuk from bus-stop to Kham Pia
Tuk-tuk from Kham Pia to Phu Wua
B300
B800
B100
B40 per meal
B20
B20
Near Cha Nan Waterfall
All four are a short walk from various different park
entrances, and Cha Nan and Tham Foon can be reached by a
one day trek with a guide from Phu Wua Headquarters.
** trekking in Phu Wua is only allowed with a guide
WHAT TO BRING
Drinking water
Food (can be purchased in Kham Pia)
Insect repellent
Toilet paper
Sun-hat
Suntan cream
Camera
Binoculars
Shoes for trekking on rocky terrain
Waterproof jacket (June – November)
BOOKING
Cha Nan waterfall
Tham Foon waterfall
Viewpoint above Tham Prai
Mekong river
Highway 212
As a sensitive wildlife area, Phu Wua
can only be visited on pre-arranged
trips.
Please call us on 057410950 or
092799475 at least one day in advance
to book your visit.
LAOS
Tham Foon ranger station
WILD ELEPHANT WATCHING
AND
TREKKING IN PHU WUA
HOW TO GET THERE
By car:
From Bangkok take the Mittaparp
Road via Udon Thani to Nong Khai.
Kham Pia
At Nong Khai take highway 212 going
east.
Phu Wua Headquarters
The turning for Phu Wua (and Kham
Pia) is well signposted, it is on the
right close to the km 179 milestone.
Cha Nan ranger station
Kham Pia village is about 3 km from
the junction.
PHU WUA WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
Klong Kwan ranger station
To get to the Phu Wua headquarters,
go straight through the village and
follow the road for another 3 km.
Asian elephant
By public transport:
From Bangkok take the train or bus to
Nong Khai (approx. 10 hours).
Don Sead ranger station
From Nong Khai bus station take a bus
from stand 12 or 13 in the direction of
Ban Paeng, a one-way ticket is B95.
There are buses every 40 minutes from
6:40am to 3:10pm every day.
Klang Phu ranger station
Phu Thok
Chet Si waterfall
Tham Phra waterfall
Sang Yai ranger station
Elephant watching tree-house
OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN THE AREA
In October many people visit Nong Khai Province to witness the rare phenomenon of
the ‘Naga Fireballs’, which are often described as red or pink balls of fire that emerge
from the Mekong river just after dusk and float into the air, sometimes to as high as
300m. Thai folklore has it that the fireballs are sent by the King of the Nagas, a serpentlike creature who lives beneath the Mekong, to celebrate the last day of Buddhist Lent
(Awk Phansaa). Another attraction in the area is Phu Thok, a massive sandstone
outcrop close to the west side of Phu Wua, with a series of walkways leading up to a
cave temple and viewpoints. Wat Pa Ahong Silawat, is a temple set amongst giant
boulders alongside the Mekong river, this is Thailand’s smallest and most intriguing
wat, and can be found near the km 115 milestone on highway 212.
Ask the conductor to let you off at the
bus stop for Ban Don Jig, which is
close to the km 179 milestone (approx.
duration of journey is 3 hours and 40
minutes).
Kham Pia village is a 3km walk up the
road on the right.
There will usually be a tuk-tuk waiting
to take you to Kham Pia or Phu Wua.
If not you can call Mr. Loed
(078610601) from the village, who
will arrange for one to pick you up.
© 2006 Written by Andy and Barbora Mayer in conjunction with OpenmindProjects.org
Pangolin
Pitcher plant
Phu Wua Wildlife Sanctuary covers 186 sq km in the
northernmost part of North-east Thailand, near the border
with Laos. It is situated in Nong Khai province, and is
approximately 170km east of Nong Khai city.
The Sanctuary was created in 1975, and ever since then, has
protected the forests, rocks and animals of one of the most
beautiful areas of Thailand.
Phu Wua is an ideal destination for one and two days
trekking trips into the wilderness, and visitors also have a
chance to see wild elephants in their natural environment.
There is limited accommodation in Phu Wua itself, but
there is a Home-stay project in the nearby village of Kham
Pia. Here, tourists can stay overnight with a local family
and gain an insight into the lives of Thai villagers.