Limosa Holidays Trip Report
Cuba
Caribbean Spring
Thu 25th February – Tue 8th March 2016
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Trip photos (clockwise, from top left): American Kestrel light morph • American Kestrel dark morph • Cuban
Trogon • Cuban Black Hawk • Blue-headed Quail-dove • Cuban Tody © tour leader Peter Kennerley/Limosa
Holidays
Report compiled by tour leader:
Peter Kennerley
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© Limosa Holidays, West End Farmhouse, Chapelfield, Stalham Norfolk NR12 9EJ
tel: +44 (0)1692 580623 • fax: +44 (0)1692 580624
email: [email protected] • website: www.limosaholidays.co.uk
Limosa Trip Report
Cuba 25 February-8 March 2016
Cuba | Caribbean Spring
Tour Leader: Peter Kennerley
with Tim Bohen & Tullia Limarzi, Brian Crowley & Joan Raven, Paul & Penny Cullington, Hazel
Cunningham, Elen Lewis, David & Juline Rickwood and Jeffrey Wigley
Lying just ninety miles south of the sun-drenched Florida Keys, Cuba has gained well-earned recognition
as a first-rate birding destination. Being the largest of the Caribbean islands, it has a wide range of
habitats, from lush forested mountains to palm-fringed, white sand beaches lapped by azure seas. Our
tour visited the island’s best birding spots at a time when many of the exciting endemics – 30 species are
found here and nowhere else – together with a host of more widespread Caribbean specialities were
already settling down to breed. We also encountered an abundance of North American wintering species
including numerous wood-warblers in their breeding plumage, as well as many wintering shorebirds and
some early passage migrants bound for their breeding grounds.
Beginning to the west of Havana, near Soroa and San Diego de los Baños in the heart of the lovely Sierra
del Rosario, La Guira National Park is an area of steep limestone hills clad in lush tropical forest. Here we
encountered our first endemics, the exquisite Cuban Todys, ornate Cuban Trogons and eye-catching
Yellow-headed Warblers, while the haunting song of Cuban Solitaires provided a superb introduction to
Cuba's rich and varied birdlife.
From here we travelled west to Playa Larga and the infamous Bay of Pigs on the Zapata Peninsula. This
is the richest and most important region for birds in Cuba and the wide range of habitats within easy
reach of our hotel ensured the three days spent here were packed with exciting birds. There are just too
many highlights to mention them all, but headline species included Blue-headed and Grey-fronted Quaildoves, secretive Fernandina’s Flickers and minuscule Bee Hummingbirds – the smallest bird in the world.
For owl fans, Stygian, Cuban Pygmy and Bare-legged Owls surely stole the show. After much hard work
deep within the swamp itself, we finally found the secretive Zapata Wren.
South of Camagüey we visited the beautiful rolling countryside surrounding La Belen where we stayed on
a working ranch and tucked into some superb meals. Here we enjoyed a most delightful wander through
savanna woodland in pleasant temperatures and found the very rare Cuban Palm Crow, along with Giant
Kingbird and Plain Pigeon, the latter being a widespread Caribbean speciality that maintains a tenuous
hold here in Cuba.
Our final destination was to the mangroves and lagoons of Cayo Coco, a low-lying barrier island just off
Cuba’s north coast where West Indian Whistling Duck, Thick-billed Vireo, Cuban Gnatcatcher and Zapata
Sparrow were among the key targets that we successfully tracked down. Cayo Coco was also
outstanding for wetland birds, with Brown Pelican, the white morph of Great Blue Heron, Tricoloured
Heron, American Flamingo and Roseate Spoonbills vying for our attention alongside wintering Nearctic
waders such as Black-necked Stilt, Piping Plovers, Western Sandpipers and Willet.
Returning full circle to Havana, we had time on our last afternoon for a short city tour and experienced
one final taste of Cuba's remarkable mix of culture, colonial architecture, street music and 1950s classic
American cars. Winter birding in tropical Cuba beneath the warm Caribbean sun proved to be a great
break from a gloomy British winter.
Daily itinerary
25 February
A long day for everyone, with the five-hour time difference between London and Havana adding to what
was already a long travel day. In the arrivals area we were met by Reidel, who would accompany our
group throughout our stay in Cuba, and our driver, Candido, as well as Hazel, Tim and Tullia who were
joining the group in Havana. Our 90-minute journey from the airport to our hotel at Soroa was in
darkness, so we had little idea of the hotel layout. We had arrived safely and were on the cusp of 11 days
of wonderful birding in what would prove to be a delightful country with warm and friendly people.
26 February
Having arrived in the dark the previous evening most of the group emerged from their cabins and began
to explore the hotel grounds, not really knowing where to go or what they were hearing or seeing. Such is
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the joy of birding on an island packed with endemics in an unfamiliar and new continent. As the light
improved we picked out a couple of White-crowned Pigeons, Red-legged Thrush, Northern Mockingbird
and Grey Catbird put in appearances along with North American wood-warblers including American
Redstart and Northern Parula. Following a hasty breakfast we met our guide, Johannes, who took us on a
walk around the hotel grounds then into the nearby woodland and on to the orchid gardens. A couple of
Louisiana Waterthrushes showed very well around the hotel, one even foraging for scraps with a Redlegged Thrush outside the hotel kitchen. The favoured tree of a Yellow-bellied Sapsucker was again
playing host to a wintering bird, perhaps the same individual that spent the previous winter here. In the
nearby forest we encountered our first Cuban Trogons and Todys, Yellow-headed Warblers, Red-legged
Honeycreepers – always nice to see these latter two species well as we may not see them again after
leaving the west. Best of all, however, was a singing Cuban Solitaire which, after a bit of manoeuvring, I
managed to get in the ‘scope giving everyone good looks at this rather nondescript endemic. Following a
presentation on orchids and the history of the orchid gardens we found several Red-legged
Honeycreepers feeding in a flowering Bottlebrush tree, and a female Cuban Grassquit proved elusive
before disappearing completely. Towards the top of the path we came across several warblers and an
unexpected Summer Tanager feeding in the canopy of a tree overhanging the path.
After lunch we left Soroa and moved to our next destination, San Diego de los Baños, a small town that
was badly hit by Hurricane Ike in 2008. Along the way, we made a short stop where the autopista passes
close to Embalse la Paila near San Cristobal. Here, a family party of Snail Kites showed well alongside
numerous Little Blue Herons and Snowy and Great Egrets on the fishponds. San Diego lies close to
Parque Nacional La Güira (La Guira National Park) that covers 22,000 ha and is home to a number of
species that are endemic to, or more readily found in, western Cuba than elsewhere on the island. With
the day rapidly shortening we spent the remaining time along the nearby river where we watched a
bobbing Spotted Sandpiper being shadowed by a Louisiana Waterthrush. As the day began to cool
Antillean Palm Swifts gathered overhead before roosting in the thatched palm roof to our dining room
where they twittered while we ate dinner.
27 February
Following breakfast, our guide, Cesar, was waiting for us and at 7.30 am we set off for La Guira National
Park and the Cuevas de los Portales, immortalised by Che Guevara, the Marxist revolutionary who took
refuge in the caves during the Cuban Missile Crisis. They are now a tourist attraction but before the
crowds arrive, they serve as a stake out for the endemic Cuban Solitaire. We heard a couple of males
singing almost as soon as we got off the minibus but pinning it down proved tricky as they remained
stationary in the canopy and we were being deafened by loud music blaring from speakers in the
neighbouring campsite. Unable to put up with this noise we moved on, seeing Cuban Bullfinches, Scalynaped Pigeons and our first Cuban Pygmy Owl in the roadside trees. Two more Cuban Solitaires were
singing near the caves from thick cover in the trees that hid them from view. Thankfully, birds were
numerous on the forest edge and we enjoyed nice views of Cuban Trogons and Todys.
Returning back the way we came towards the Hacienda Cortina we paused by a small group of pines
where Cesar was confident we would see Olive-capped Warbler, another major target for the morning.
This species is restricted to pines, where they are common, so find a stand of pines and you will see
Olive-capped Warblers. This we did and very shortly we were joined by at least six Olive-capped
Warblers, some of which showed extremely well. At the Hacienda we came across a fruiting tree hosting
an abundance of Red-legged Thrushes, a multitude of warblers including two female Cape May and a
couple of Tennessee, several Western Spindalis and a couple of Summer Tanagers.
After lunch we were treated to a most pleasant afternoon that began in fields some distance from the
hotel where Cesar had a staked-out flock of grassquits and buntings. We soon found the flock, which was
feeding in a weedy field, with birds regularly flying up into adjacent trees where they proved easy to check
through. Surprisingly, Indigo Buntings were the most numerous species and, with them, we soon found
30 or more Yellow-faced Grassquits and at least ten Cuban Grassquits. The latter species is becoming
increasingly scarce and now is most easily found in the west of the island. Equally exciting were the
grosbeaks, with both male and female Blue and Rose-breasted present and giving great looks through
the scope. From here we walked the mile or so back to the hotel which took us through small villages and
cultivated fields with a great range of birds. Here we found our first Cuban Vireo, a few Cuban Pewees,
both colour morphs of American Kestrel and a couple of immature Cuban Orioles.
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28 February
Before breakfast Jeffrey joined me on the balcony, more in hope than expectation that something of
interest would appear. But hope springs ever eternal and two small swifts appeared, initially quite distant
but they gradually worked their way closer until they were over the hotel. Here their entirely dark
appearance and short, square tails confirmed their identification as Chimney Swifts, and they were joined
by several longer-tailed, pale-rumped, Antillean Palm Swifts. At least four similar birds remained in the
distance but didn’t come sufficiently close to establish their identification. Before we departed, an adult
Cuban Oriole showed well outside the hotel. Having managed to see all the target species that are most
easily found in western Cuba we made an early start from San Diego de los Baños and quickly joined the
autopista. We were pleasantly surprised to find that this modern three-lane highway was almost entirely
free of traffic, perhaps just one vehicle every few hundred meters or more, so we were able to make
excellent progress towards Havana. As we neared Havana we pulled off to view a large reservoir that
appeared to be covered in ducks. Through ‘scopes we found large numbers of Ring-necked Ducks,
Lesser Scaups and Ruddy Ducks, along with rather fewer Pied-billed Grebes and American Coots, plus a
handful of Blue-winged Teals and Northern Shovelers. Little Blue Herons and Snowy and Great Egrets
fished in the shallows, while a Belted Kingfisher perched up nicely. Unfortunately, the ducks were
disturbed by a boat and disappeared to the far end of the lake where the viewing was into the sun so at
that point we opted to continue eastwards.
Some 200 km further east we stopped for lunch; toasted cheese and ham sandwiches delivered at a
speed that even MacDonalds would envy, and far more tasty then anything they could dish up. After
lunch we made a short detour into the northern part of the Zapata Swamp at Hato de Jicarita. But being
mid-afternoon the birds were keeping quiet and Yellow-throated Warbler and Cuban Oriole were the
highlights.
From here it wasn’t far to Australia, the town just off the autopista that we had to pass through en-route to
Playa Larga. Shortly afterwards we pulled off for a break at the crocodile centre/farm where Cuban and
American Crocodiles, and American Alligator entertain the tourists before becoming shoes and handbags
– although some from the captive breeding are released to replenish the dwindling native populations. At
10 CUCs a pop we opted to remain on the outside but still found plenty to look at, with a variety of
grackles and blackbirds coming to feed, as well as an array of wintering wood-warblers including a very
smart male Prairie Warbler. Suitably impressed, we continued on to our hotel at Playa Larga, a spacious
establishment with individual chalets dotted about the grounds, which we reached just before sunset.
29 February
With so many exciting birds awaiting us over the next three days it was difficult to know where to begin,
so we opted for the woodland at Soplillar, just a short distance from Playa Larga. This site provides a nice
introduction to Zapata’s birds including many of the endemic and resident species in a range of woodland
and open grassland interspersed with palms. The highlights included a couple of Crested Caracaras, a
Gundlach’s Hawk for Brian and Jo, fly-by Zenaida Dove and Fernandina’s Flicker, several Cuban Parrots,
a Bare-legged Owl that peered at us from its daytime roost, several Cuban Trogons and Todys, Cuban
Pewees, La Sagra’s Flycatchers, Cuban Vireos and a couple of Cuban Martins. Wintering migrants
included Blue-grey Gnatcatcher and a multitude of warblers including Worm-eating, Prairie, Ovenbird,
Northern Waterthrush and at least six Yellow-throated Warblers.
In the afternoon we visited La Salinas, a superb wetland situated on the western side of the Bay of Pigs
that abounds with waders and waterbirds. Viewing is best from a series of viewing towers along the road
that overlooked the mudflats and lagoons. Birds were everywhere and everyone was finding something of
interest, making it difficult to know where to look next; American Flamingos, Brown Pelicans, Roseate
Spoonbills, Wood Stork, numerous herons and egrets including Yellow-crowned Night Heron, both colour
morphs of Reddish Egret and several white morph Great Blue Herons that tower above the Great Egrets.
Royal and Caspian Terns were roosting on the islands, a Magnificent Frigatebird flew low overhead, and
a Northern Harrier, two Ospreys and several Cuban Black Hawks showed well, the latter even
scavenging along the track. A flock of Greater Yellowlegs held a single Stilt Sandpiper, a single Willet was
clearly a ‘Western’ bird with a long, slim bill and long tibia. Out on the mud a distant flock of small
shorebirds was nervously feeding and repeatedly flying, at one point landing sufficiently close to establish
that they were Western Sandpipers, with a couple of Semipalmated Plovers thrown in the mix. At one
point a stunningly bright male Yellow Warbler (or Golden or Mangrove, choose your taxonomy and pick
your species) worked its way through the roadside mangroves, surely the brightest of the wood-warblers.
We remained until sunset, watching the cormorants, herons and storks gathering in the mangroves to
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roost for the night. As a finale to a wonderful afternoon, two squadrons of American White Pelicans
totalling c. 110 birds flew past the coach just as we were departing – a fitting end to a marvellous day. We
looked for nightjars in the headlights as we drove back to the hotel, but none were seen.
1 March
Our focus this morning was on Zapata Wren, undoubtedly the most iconic species associated with the
Zapata marshes. This year a fire had destroyed some of the habitat at the easier site at La Turba, so we
opted for the village of Santo Tomás where we caught up with this species last year and where it was
originally described from. The drive to Santo Tomás took almost an hour, but here we were in the centre
of the vast Zapata swamp. Having reached Santo Tomás we transferred to a couple of punts and
continued along a canal for a further 800 m until we disembarked and assembled. Amidst a landscape of
saw-grass marshes and scattered bushes, Kiko played a recording of Zapata Wren song and we got an
almost immediate response. The bird circled around us for several minutes, stubbornly remaining out of
view apart from brief appearances when it flew between adjacent patches of reed and bushes. Eventually
it gave itself up and showed well for several seconds in the bare branches in the crown of a bush. Apart
from this pair of wrens, there was little else in this part of the swamp, and certainly nothing that was
singing. Our return to Santo Tomás was brought to a halt by a singing Zapata Sparrow. As we waited we
watched a Black-and-white Warbler and several Yellow-headed Warblers flitted through the trees but the
sparrow refused to give itself up. As we returned to our coach a calling parakeet lead us to a group of
Cuban Parakeets that immediately took flight and gave nice looks to some of the group.
After lunch, we went in search of a Stygian Owl that was nesting quite close to the hotel. We were told the
young bird had already left the nest but that all three birds were still in the vicinity so all we needed to do
was find them. Shortly after reaching the nest site we heard a bird call twice, very quietly and softly, but at
least we knew where to begin our search. Kiko and I left the group and wandered 30 m along a narrow
trail, looked up and there it was, sitting above our heads and unconcerned by our presence. That was
easy, and everyone enjoyed prolonged ‘scope views of this highly sought-after owl. From here we made a
return visit to the croc farm where a nice variety of warblers put on a fine show, then on into the nearby
marshes in the hope of a Red-shouldered Blackbird. But as the day began to fade we conceded defeat
with this one and returned to the hotel.
2 March
We still had one major site to visit, the protected forest at Bermejas that is home to 19 of Cuba’s endemic
species. We began the day just before 7 am at the feeding station where Orlando, probably Zapata’s
most famous guide, joined us. Orlando has almost single-handedly placed Bermejas on the birding map,
in part because of his intimate understanding of the birds around his home village, but also because of
the viewing screen he has built which overlooks a trail on which he regularly puts out food. Even as we
disembarked from the coach Orlando was urging us to come quickly – three superb Blue-headed Quaildoves were feeding on the trail almost immediately in front of the screen. As we slowly took them in we
realised there were several Zenaida Doves present, yet another lifer for most of the group. Next came a
Key West Quail-dove that wandered in and out of view farther down the trail, while one or two Ovenbirds
regularly popped into view. After soaking up the doves for 30 minutes Orlando ushered us back into our
coach and we set off. He was clearly a man on a mission and determined to ensure that we caught up
with every endemic on his patch. Some ten minutes later we drew to a halt by a roadside that crossed a
sawgrass swamp and Orlando began to make a series of the most extraordinary noises that a person can
make; some of us thought he was ill! But he assured us that these sounds would entice Red-shouldered
Blackbirds into view. And sure enough, just after he began, a male Red-shouldered Blackbird flew low
over the reeds towards him and dropped out of view. He continued with his repertoire of blackbird
imitations for a few more minutes, which drew the female and then the male into view. The male clearly
felt this interloper was outperforming him so he took flight, shortly followed by the female. Smiles all
around, this was the one endemic we missed last year so from my perspective this was a great moment.
But, no time to savour the moment. Back on the coach again and five minutes later we were watching our
first Fernandina’s Flickers feeding by the roadside, followed shortly after by another three or four more in
what appeared to be a colony of them in the scattered palms. Another great bird. From here we enjoyed a
very birdy walk in the forest that culminated in a visit to a water hole where a pair of Grey-fronted Quaildoves, yet another endemic, showed briefly before taking flight. Sadly, we hadn’t realised we were going
here and hadn’t been sufficiently stealthy in our approach. But over the next 15 minutes a great selection
of birds, mostly wood-warblers, dropped in to drink and bathe. Much as we would have liked to linger, the
pressure was still on us and it was soon time to go. Next came good, perched views of a flock of Cuban
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Parakeets, a bonus for those who missed them yesterday. Then, the moment we had all been
anticipating, the visit to Orlando’s flowering trees that are the regular haunt of the world’s smallest bird,
the Bee Hummingbird. We need not have worried. As we got there a female was on view slipping her bill
into the flowers, then perched and preening. After savouring her we went in search of the male, altogether
more challenging as there seem to be fewer of them and they appear to prefer to perch out of view inside
the bushes. But eventually the male duly appeared and displayed his full facial regalia in the bright sun to
reveal the shocking pink mask that is characteristic of this species. And with that little gem our morning
drew to a close.
After taking stock of what we had seen that morning, what still remained to be seen, and what our options
were, there was a general consensus that we should spend our last afternoon at Zapata in the forest at
Bermejas. The icing on the cake being that Orlando recommended we stand by another water hole and
see what came in to drink. This proved to be an excellent move which everyone really enjoyed. There
was a continuous coming and going of birds to drink and bathe, Black-throated Blue Warblers were the
most numerous but they were really nervous of the large wasps that were also drinking from the pool. A
couple of Black-throated Green Warblers appeared including a really smart male. Worm-eating Warbler
was a bird many wanted, especially after missing one a few days earlier and, very soon, one appeared,
then two, then three, drinking and bathing together and giving simply wonderful views. But the warbler we
all wanted to savour the most proved to be the most reluctant, like any celebrity it was saving itself until
the end. But our persistence paid off and finally the elusive Swainson’s popped into view, posed, bathed
drank then retreated, but repeated this a further two times, talk about curtain calls. And before I finish this
afternoon’s account I should mention the Grey-fronted Quail-dove. Yes one came to the pool, remained
oblivious to our presence and drank for a few minutes. It too wasn’t happy with the wasps and quickly
moved to the far side of the pool where there were fewer of the pesky insects. A superb afternoon.
Shortly after reaching the coach, the heavens, which had been darkening, opened and torrential rain
pounded the windscreen. Thankfully we hadn’t been caught out in this storm, but it had thwarted any
ideas we may have had for a Cuban Nightjar search that evening. When we reached our hotel in Playa
Larga the roads were several inches deep in storm water; not a night to be out in.
3 March
To see all of Cuba’s endemic birds requires some effort and visits to at least five locations, often
separated by several hundred kilometres of largely empty roads. Today was going to be a long travel day
with limited opportunities for birding en-route. Following breakfast at Playa Larga we were on the road by
8 am, initially heading north towards Australia, the township, not the country, where Castro’s forces coordinated their defence during the failed Bay of Pigs invasion. From here we continued to the east along
the autopista where we made good time. As last year we were able to make a prolonged stop to view a
reservoir 264 km east of Havana near Santa Clara. It is worth mentioning that the Cuban autopista
network isn’t quite like the M25. Firstly, although these are three lane highways and are generally in
excellent condition, they are almost completely devoid of traffic. Secondly, you can stop anywhere and
get out, which is exactly what we did here. Although birds were a bit distant, we soon found Double
Crested Cormorants, Anhingas, Black-necked Stilts, a solitary Ring-necked Duck, a couple of Brown
Pelicans and two Ospreys. This year the water levels were much higher but this hadn’t deterred the Cave
Swallows from nesting below the bridges that carried the autopista over the deep ravines. By looking
down onto them as they swept below us we enjoyed some great looks at what can be a difficult hirundine
to see well and in good light conditions. Over the distant hills a Red-tailed Hawk soared with the everpresent Turkey Vultures.
We continued east until we ran out of autopista near Jatibonico. From here we were onto two lane roads
with tractors, horse-drawn carts, overloaded bicycles, cheese sellers in the road flogging their wares –
yes really, large circular cheeses out in the heat, very tasty so I’m told although we didn’t get to sample
their wares, plus an assortment of travellers flashing notes in the hope of getting a lift – apparently it does
work. After a short stop for lunch we continued east to Camagüey where Rei offered us a city tour,
something we politely declined as we hoped to reach the Ranch before darkness set in. From Camagüey
it was a further 90 minutes along gradually slower and disintegrating roads to Najasa and our
accommodation beyond at Rancho la Belen. As we neared Najasa we made a couple of stops, one to
check some corvids coming in to roost, all of which proved to be Cuban Crows, and secondly to enjoy a
pair of Eastern Meadowlarks of the small Cuban race, a bird that is regularly spoken of as a potential split
from its continental counterpart. These stops had delayed us so by the time we neared the ranch the light
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had all but gone. After several stops to ask directions, Candido finally found the correct track and we
arrived at the ranch where we were greeted with a refreshing welcome drink.
Having previously briefed the group about what to expect here (it’s not quite your normal hotel service)
we went for dinner – soft drinks were included in our package but after such a tiring journey many opted
to go for the obligatory Bucaneros. With little birding today we were all looking forward to a great day
tomorrow.
4 March
With breakfast scheduled for 7 am there was just enough time beforehand for a spot of pre-breakfast
birding. I wandered along the approach track and was joined by a few of our group. Noisy Cuban Crows
were a distraction but among the racket we quickly heard and then found a Giant Kingbird calling from the
bare trees. All too soon it flew to an adjacent tree and was joined by a second bird. At breakfast we
discovered that the remainder of the group had stayed by the ranch and seen Giant Kingbird and Palm
Crow, ably pointed out by our guide for the day, Camilo.
Following breakfast, Camilo took us on a most enjoyable gentle hike though open savanna woodland and
cattle pasture and, with few leaves on the trees, getting views of birds proved to be quite easy – just
about everyone saw just about everything this morning. We began with a masterclass on corvid
identification; Cuban Crows have a varied, even outstanding vocabulary and stay high in the trees, Palm
Crows on the other hand sound like Rooks and often feed on the ground and walk rather like Jackdaws.
Despite this, Palm Crows often join the Cuban Crows in the palms, and their separation really comes
down to vocalisations. Our third target, Plain Pigeon, proved to be rather elusive but our search for them
brought us to a fruiting tree that was alive with birds, in particular wintering wood-warblers including
American Redstarts, Northern Parula, and Prairie, Black-throated Blue and Cape May Warblers, now in
their dashing breeding finery. By this point in the tour we had seen many of the endemics on numerous
occasions and today’s trogons, todys, parrots and parakeets barely warranted a second glance, such was
their abundance. Of greater interest was a pair of American Kestrels making their home in the top of a
dead palm, nice looks at a Cuban Pygmy Owl and an adult Yellow-crowned Night Heron superbly found
in a dead tree that had appeared to be devoid of birds. Regular scanning of the skies produced a single
Crested Caracara but not the hoped-for Gundlach’s Hawk.
Calling Pale Pigeons brought our attention back to the program, but as we approached the sound all we
glimpsed was two shapes disappearing among the palms. An hour later, they were still calling but we still
couldn’t locate them, they had presumably buried themselves in deep cover. Having given up we walked
away only for Camilo to spot one in the top of a distant tree, good man. Scope views were enjoyed by all
and another restricted range species, endemic to the Caribbean region, was seen by everyone.
Following lunch we drove the few kms to Los Chinos Laguna (the Chinese Lake) near Najasa, which had
proved very attractive last year. Along the way we saw a couple of Palm Crows walking among the
horses (not bouncing as Cuban Crows do) and six or more Plain Pigeons that provided far better views
than the morning birds had done. I was very surprised to see the water levels were way down on last year
but even so several fishermen were at work, wading chest-deep in the water. Despite this, there were
plenty of shorebirds scurrying along the lake edge and they were quite tolerant of the nearby fishermen.
The first Calidris flock all proved to be Least Sandpipers, in fact every Calidris we found that afternoon
was a Least - around 200 of them. Also here were Black-necked Stilts, Greater Yellowlegs and Spotted
Sandpipers. But the bird we really wanted was Northern Jacana, which had been quite numerous here
last year. Without the floating vegetation, it seemed they had moved on, but Brian found a young bird on
the far side of the lake. As we got closer to the water’s edge we found a flock of around 15 birds feeding
on open mud in a secluded bay not too far from where we were standing and they were quite unperturbed
by our presence. A pair of Ospreys flew low overhead, a couple of Limpkins perched in a tree and a small
flock of Yellow-rumped (Myrtle) Warblers flitted through the lakeside scrub.
To round off the day a few of us jumped off the coach as we reached La Belen and walked the last few
hundred meters back to the Rancho. A couple of huge bulls with magnificent horns distracted us for a few
minutes before we noticed several warblers flitting among the leafless trees and a pair of Loggerhead
Kingbirds bathed by a leaking pipe. We visited the small reservoir where a pair of Jacanas was showing
well at close range, an American Moorhen fed in the distance and 350 or more Cattle Egrets came into
roost, accompanied by 12 or more Little Blue Herons.
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Another excellent meal followed and a quiet night was enjoyed by all – until the Limpkins began to call.
5 March
A long drive lay ahead of us today as we hoped to reach our hotel on the tropical island of Cayo Coco in
time for lunch. Sadly, this meant there wasn’t time for much pre-breakfast birding before we said farewell
to Rancho la Belen, which proved to be the best place we’d stayed at so far (if you discount the buckets
of hot water and the Limpkins that called throughout the night). Great food, excellent service, and a
superb pool if you found the time to use it.
The road from Najasa to Camagüey was badly rutted, full of potholes and plagued with slow vehicles
including numerous horse-drawn carts, so it wasn’t until almost 10 am that we finally cleared Camagüey
and the roads improved. From here we pressed on to Cayo Coco, surprisingly without the expected
passport checks at the causeway. From the causeway, Laughing Gulls and Red-breasted Mergansers
were noted, but with lunch beckoning we pressed on.
We immediately hit the huge buffet at our all-inclusive resort hotel, a change from rice and beans, then
sorted out the rooms. By 15.30 we were ready to explore these delightful islands. We began by the
lagoon adjacent to the Melia hotel where a flock of 32 West Indian Whistling Ducks were perched on the
roofs of the condos there. Just then the heavens opened and we retreated to the coach. From here we
drove to the feeding station at Cueva del Jabali on Cayo Coco, just a few km distant but which the rain
hadn’t affected. As we approached a Zenaida Dove was already in view and flitted off the path, while an
Ovenbird stalked through the leaf litter. As we manoeuvred into the best positions the first Key West
Quail-dove walked into view, shortly followed by two more, but they were dominated by the Zenaida
Dove, which chased them into thick cover each time they appeared. The bathing pool proved really
popular with at least four Black-throated Blue Warblers (including two females), Red-legged Thrushes
and Grey Catbirds. As we were leaving we were shown a female Cuban Emerald on its nest. At this point
one of our party took an unexpected tumble, so we made an earlier than scheduled return to the hotel,
where some explored the beach where a flock of Turnstones were in residence, and a nearby lagoon held
eight Killdeer.
With free Mojitos, buffet and hot showers on the menu this evening, everyone did their own thing at their
own pace, but eventually we met up for a bird list and hoped for a bit more luck in the morning.
6 March
We set off from the hotel at 6.30 am heading for Cayo Paredón Grande, one of the smaller islands
connected to Coco by a road and series of bridges. Along the way we made a short stop on Cayo Coca at
a stake out for Zapata Sparrows and almost immediately a pair put in an appearance by the roadside.
The Zapata Sparrows on Cayo Coca are of the brighter race T. i. varonai, which has richer yellow
underparts and a brighter chestnut cap than the birds in Zapata. Here we also saw our first Oriente
Warblers. The road to the lighthouse on Cayo Paredón Grande is a stake-out for three very special birds,
Cuban Gnatcatcher, Bahama Mockingbird and Thick-billed Vireo. The vireo is clearly a common bird in
the coastal scrub and mangrove and we could hear three singing birds in the 500 m to the end of the
road. Initially elusive, eventually everyone was enjoying this very special bird that occurs nowhere else in
Cuba. Cuban Gnatcatchers also showed well but the Bahama Mockingbird proved to be far more elusive.
Northern Mockingbirds are numerous here and appear to be driving the Bahamans out. Despite
searching in several regular haunts for a couple of hours we failed to see or even hear one. That was until
Brian wandered back along the road and came across one before it was chased off by a pair of
Northerns. For the rest of us it was to remain a phantom.
We made several short stops on the drive back to Cayo Coca, where a large flock of American Coots
held small numbers of Northern Shoveler and Blue-winged Teal. A couple of distant Cuban Black Hawks
and a Peregrine Falcon added to the highlights, but there wasn’t a single shorebird to be found. We
checked many pools and mudflats that looked interesting but there wasn’t even a Greater Yellowlegs to
be seen. Eventually we returned to the hotel and met with Tim and Tullia for lunch.
Leaving the hotel again at 3 pm, we returned to the lagoon by the Melia hotel to search for Mangrove
Cuckoo. Here we found 12 West Indian Whistling Ducks cruising close to the mangroves but the cuckoo
remained silent. From here we made the short drive to the beach at Los Colonades in the hope of finding
Piping Plover, a species that just about everyone wanted to see. Initially we could only find Turnstone,
Sanderling and a Grey Plover that were feeding on the tide edge. With a bit of effort we eventually found
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a couple of distant plovers that transformed into Piping as we got closer. Even better, one had a green
flag on the left tibia with the letters H0J, and an orange ring on the right tibia. This bird was banded by
researchers from Virginia Tech as an adult at Fire Island National Seashore on Long Island, New York,
on 7th June 2015, and probably not too far from where Tim and Tullia had protected them in previous
years. We found this bird on exactly the same beach where we found a flagged bird, White E2, on our
February 2015 tour. That bird had been ringed as a chick in Nova Scotia, Canada. These birds are being
ringed as part of a study program designed to investigate the movements of this endangered plover that
shares its breeding beaches with much of North America’s humanity. It was great to see these ghostly
waifs so well and provide data that will be of real value to researchers and conservationists. Just offshore
we watched several Royal Terns and Brown Pelicans plunging into the sea. With the day drawing to a
close we opted to look for Clapper Rail. Our first try drew a blank, but the second attempt, at the lagoon
by our hotel, succeeded spectacularly when Yadier played a recording of its call. It didn’t appear from the
mangroves as expected, instead it emerged right below us just a meter or two away and too close for
some to see, while others didn’t know where to look, birds usually don’t behave like this. It remained in
view for over ten minutes, then slowly walked off into the mangroves. A White-crowned Pigeon sat in the
crown of a nearby tree and five Killdeer scuttled across the mud. A great finale to our last full day of
birding.
And so our final day of birding in Cuba came to a close. With a long drive ahead of us the next day we
had to get ourselves packed up and ready for check-in. We enjoyed yet another belly-busting buffet
before settling down to a good night’s rest.
7 March
A 500+ km journey to Havana lay ahead of us so we made an early start from the hotel, taking with us the
breakfasts that we had put together from the previous evening’s buffet. These proved to be vastly
superior to the departing fare offered by the hotel, not something to dwell on. By 6.15 am we were on our
way, heading south along the causeway to the mainland, accompanied by Laughing Gulls, Red-breasted
Mergansers, Brown Pelicans, Double Crested Cormorants and a party of American Flamingos. We
reached the township of Morón in just over 30 minutes. For the locals who work on Cayo Coco and who
aren’t allowed to remain here, they must hitch or take a bus back to Morón once their shift finishes –
which can take anything up to two hours. For the next hour or so the roads were fairly slow as we were
held back by ageing tractors, overloaded motorcycles and horse-drawn carts. But once we reached the
start of the autopista at Jatibonico there was no holding us back. Once again, the autopista was devoid of
traffic and we made rapid progress towards Havana. We stopped for ham and cheese sandwiches at the
service area 104 km east of Havana, so it was approaching 2.30 pm when we entered the city limits. After
dropping Hazel, Tim and Tullia at their respective hotels, Rei took us on a brief walking tour of the city –
sadly the Cuban Martins hadn’t returned yet. This was followed by a short excursion to Revolution Square
where, for a small fee you could take a selfie in a 1950s Cadillac. From here it was on to the airport where
we arrived just after 5.30 pm. Just as last year, the competent airport staff processed passengers quickly
and efficiently and we were checked in and through immigration and security within 30 minutes. That
said, the queue to convert CUCs back to foreign exchange was painfully slow, and woe betide you if you
wanted to change more than CUC 40 – here they clearly don’t want to relinquish hard currency.
And so our tour to the delightful country of Cuba came to a close. Everyone had enjoyed this tranquil
country and we were sad to be leaving. In 11 days we had, between us, seen all but two of the country’s
31 species of endemic bird; Zapata Rail remains incredibly elusive, the last reported sighting being in
November 2014. Therefore only Cuban Nightjar had eluded us, a combination of bad luck and bad
weather thwarted us. And apart from a couple of chilly days at the start, we had enjoyed warm and mostly
sunny weather throughout. The torrential rain we experienced at Playa Larga and Cayo Coca proved to
be quite localised, while the persistent rain as we drove to La Belen had all but stopped when we got
there. Our local guide, Reidel, from Havanatur worked extremely hard throughout to ensure things ran
smoothly and we are all extremely grateful to him for putting up with us when things didn’t quite go as
expected. Our driver, Candido, had to put in some long hours and covered long distances, which he did
safely and competently. Our birding guides, Johannes at Soroa, Cesar at La Guila, Yoandys (Kiko) and
Orlando at Playa Larga/Bermejas, Camilo at La Belen and Yadier at Cayo Coco, worked extremely hard
to ensure that everyone in the group saw all the important species, and saw them well. Without their help
we would have missed so many of the exciting birds we enjoyed. And finally I would like to thank each of
you for making this such a fun tour to lead, your humour and tolerance made this a most memorable
experience. Thank you all and I look forward to returning very soon.
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ANNOTATED LIST OF BIRD SPECIES RECORDED
A total of 153 species was recorded by the group.
West Indian Whistling-duck Dendrocygna arborea
At least 32 on the lagoon and later on the roof of the hotel condo blocks in at the Melia Hotel, Cayo
Coco, on 5/3, and 12 there on 2/3.
Blue-winged Teal Anas discors
Two males and a female on a reservoir southwest of Havana on 28/2, and at least one pair with
American Coots on Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3.
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Eleven on a reservoir southwest of Havana on 28/2, and at least six Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3.
Ring-necked Duck Aythya collaris
At least 120 on a reservoir southwest of Havana on 28/2, and a male at the reservoir at km 264 near
Santa Clara on 3/3.
Lesser Scaup Aythya affinis
At least 400 on a reservoir southwest of Havana on 28/2.
Red-breasted Merganser Mergus serrator
At least 40 from the causeway to Cayo Coca on 5/3, and 20 or more there on 7/3.
Ruddy Duck Oxyura jamaicensis
At least 180 on a reservoir southwest of Havana on 28/2.
Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
Three in fields near San Diego on 27/2. At least 16 in the La Belen region on 4/3. Originally introduced
from Africa as a source of food, these birds are understandably wary.
Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps
At least 40 on a reservoir southwest of Havana on 28/2 was the only sighting this year.
American Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber
At least 100 at La Salinas on 29/2, one on the causeway to Cayo Coca on 5/3 and 30+ there on 7/3.
Wood Stork Mycteria americana
At least four gathering in mangroves to roost in the late afternoon at La Salinas on 29/2.
White Ibis Eudocimus albus
Common in and near wetlands in the Zapata region, and also on Cayo Coco and Cayo Paredón
Grande. Noted on six days between 29/2 and 6/3, with a maximum of 120+ at La Salinas on 29/2.
Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja
Four at La Salinas on 29/2, and six on Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3.
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
An adult by the roadside near Najasa on 3/3, and an adult at a reservoir near Rancho la Belen on 5/3.
Yellow-crowned Night Heron Nyctanassa violacea
Single adults at La Salinas on 29/2 and during the walk at La Belen on 4/3.
Green Heron Butorides virescens
Single birds were occasionally encountered in wetlands in the San Diego and Zapata regions, La
Belen and the northern Cayos, with sightings on six dates between 26/2 and 5/3.
Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
An abundant species, seen on ten dates in large numbers, often 1,000 or more daily, and typically
associated with cattle farming and rice fields. Not seen on the northern Cayos.
Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias
Between one and 10+ daily from 28/2 to 6/3. Usually seen singly although ten or more scattered
individuals were seen on La Salinas on 29/2, which included at least six of the localised white morph,
which resembles a huge Great Egret, and at least one on Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3. These white
birds belong with the race A. h. occidentalis that occurs from southern Florida to the West Indies.
Great Egret Ardea alba
Noted in wetlands throughout the country on ten dates from 26/2 to 6/3. Most numerous at La Salinas
where 20+ noted on 24/2, and 10+ on Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3. Birds throughout the Americas
are of the race A. a. egretta, which ranges from southern Canada to southern Chile and may be a
distinct species from European birds.
Reddish Egret Egretta rufescens
At least eight at La Salinas on 29/2 included both dark and white morph birds, the white morph being
the more numerous. Restricted to saline wetlands.
Tricoloured Heron Egretta tricolor
At least 15 at La Salinas on 29/2, and 30+ on Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3. Restricted to saline
wetlands.
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Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
Noted on nine days from 26/2 to 6/3 at wetlands throughout the island. Single birds often noted but
notable concentrations included 12+ at La Salinas on 29/2, 16+ on the small reservoir at La Belen on
5/3 and 20+ on Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3.
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Noted on eight dates between 26/2 and 6/3, with high totals of 40+ on fishponds near Embalse la Paila
near San Cristobal on 26/2 and at La Salinas on 29/2, and 30+ at Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3.
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
Noted on four days. At least six at La Salinas on 29/2, one over the hotel at Playa Larga on 2/3, two
over the Tryp Cayo Coca hotel on Cayo Coco on 5/3, at least ten at Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3,
and another at Los Colonades Beach on Cayo Coco later the same day.
American White Pelican Pelecanus erythrorhynchos
Watching two squadrons of these huge birds, totalling 110 individuals, gliding into La Salinas to roost
just after sunset on 29/2 forms one of the lasting memories of the tour.
Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis
Fairly common at most wetland sites visited and noted on five dates between 28/2 and 6/3, particularly
favoured coastal sites. Most numerous at La Salinas with 20+ birds present on 29/2, and at Cayo
Paredón Grande with 10+ there on 6/3.
Double-crested Cormorant Phalacrocorax auritus
All the flocks of cormorants we checked proved to be this species, which winters here in large
numbers. Noted on six days with the highest totals being 150+ at La Salinas on 29/2, and 25+ from
the Cayo Coca causeway on 5/3.
Anhinga Anhinga anhinga
Six at the reservoir at km 264 near Santa Clara on 3/3.
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
It was rarely possible to be out of sight of this species. In excess of 100 seen most days and on some
days we probably saw in excess of 500 birds. What they all feed on is something of a mystery,
although the lack of corvids and other large raptors suggests they are dominant and skilful at
snatching food from other species. Some watched feeding on road kills.
Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Widespread and noted on eight dates between 26/2 and 6/3 with a total of 14 birds. On three
occasions two birds were associating closely together, such as the two at Los Chinos Laguna on 4/3.
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis
Five birds, including adult male and female and three juveniles, showed very nicely at the fishponds
adjacent to Embalse la Paila near San Cristobal on 26/2.
Northern Harrier Circus hudsonius
One or possibly two juveniles in flight over the mangroves at La Salinas on 29/2, and a juvenile seen
from the coach on 5/3 between La Belen and Cayo Coca. This species is now split from Hen Harrier
C. cyaneus of Eurasia, and its closest relative is Cinereous Harrier C. cinereus of South America.
Gundlach's Hawk Accipiter gundlachi ENDEMIC
A large and bulky Accipiter with a barred tail, seen by Brian and Jo at Soplillar on 29/2, was identified
as this species.
Cuban Black Hawk Buteogallus gundlachii ENDEMIC
At least three at La Salinas on 29/2, and two at Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3. Now split from Common
Black Hawk B. anthracinus of Central and South America.
Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus
A calling bird was pointed out to some of the group at Bermejas by Orlando on 2/3.
Red-tailed Hawk Buteo jamaicensis
Just five birds noted this year, with singles at Soroa on 26/2, en-route to San Diego de los Baños on
27/2, en-route to La Belen on 3/3, and two singles en-route on 7/3. As well as being widespread
throughout North America, this species also breeds in Cuba.
Clapper Rail Rallus crepitans
Outrageous views of one that responded to playback at the lagoon by our hotel at Cayo Coca on 6/3.
A second bird was heard calling nearby but did not show.
American Moorhen Gallinula galeata
One on a reservoir southwest of Havana on 28/2, three at the croc centre near Playa Larga later the
same day, and probably two of these same birds there again on 1/3. One by the roadside east of
Bermejas on 2/3, two on the reservoir at km 264 near Santa Clara on 3/3, one on the small reservoir
at Rancho la Belen on 4/3 and three there the following morning. Recently split from Common
Moorhen G. chloropus of Eurasia.
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American Coot Fulica americana
At least 30 on a reservoir southwest of Havana on 28/2, and 400+ at Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3.
Limpkin Aramus guarauna
Two by the small reservoir at Rancho la Belen on 4/3 and four at Los Chinos Laguna later the same
day. In the early hours of the following morning, at least three birds were calling loudly from trees near
Rancho la Belen.
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
Two on a drained fish pond en route from San Diego towards Havana on 28/2, two at La Salinas on
29/2, a pair at the reservoir at km 264 near Santa Clara on 3/3 and six at Los Chinos Laguna on 4/3.
Black-necked Stilt is treated as a distinct species from Black-winged Stilt H. himantopus.
Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
A group of 13 at La Salinas on 29/2, and one at Los Colonades Beach on Cayo Coco on 6/3.
Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus
Two at La Salinas on 29/2 in the Western Sandpiper flock.
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus
Noted widely in small numbers on six dates. The highest counts were of eight birds at Los Chinos
Laguna on 4/3, eight on the lagoon by the Tryp Cayo Coca on 5/3 and five there the following day.
Piping Plover Charadrius melodus
Two on Los Colonades Beach on Cayo Coco on 6/3 was one of the highlights of the tour. Piping
Plover is endangered in North America due to disturbance of its nesting beaches, many of which are
partially closed during the breeding season. On-going studies to better understand what can be done
to prevent nest and chick losses, and locate important sites utilised outside the breeding season are
underway throughout its breeding and non-breeding ranges. Many are ringed (banded) as chicks to
establish where they go outside the breeding season, and one of the birds we saw was fitted with a
green leg flag with the code H0J on the left tibia, and an orange ring on the right tibia. This bird was
banded by researchers from Virginia Tech as an adult on Fire Island National Seashore, New York, on
7th June 2015.
Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa
At least 15 at Los Chinos Laguna near Najasa on 4/3 which included adults and two or more juveniles,
and a pair on the small reservoir near Rancho la Belen on 4/3 and 5/3.
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca
At least 12 at La Salinas on 29/2, and two at Los Chinos Laguna near Najasa on 4/3.
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes
One at La Salinas on 29/2 was the only sighting.
Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius
Two on fishponds adjacent to Embalse la Paila near San Cristobal on 26/2, singles on the river
by the hotel at San Diego de los Baños on 26/2 and 27/2, singles en-route to Havana on 28/2 and at
the reservoir at km 264 near Santa Clara on 3/3, and two at Los Chinos Laguna near Najasa on 4/3.
Willet Tringa semipalmata
Two at La Salinas on 29/2 appeared to be ‘Western Willets’ T. s. inornata. Western Willet differs from
its eastern counterpart by its longer and proportionately thinner bill, and by its longer tibia. All were still
in non-breeding plumage.
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Eight on the beach by the Tryp Cayo Coca on 5/3, and 12 or more at Los Colonades Beach on Cayo
Coco on 6/3.
Sanderling Calidris alba
At least 20 at Los Colonades Beach on Cayo Coco on 6/3.
Stilt Sandpiper Calidris himantopus
One in a flock of Greater Yellowlegs at La Salinas on 29/2 was the only sighting. Rather pleased we
took the time to get good views of it.
Western Sandpiper Calidris mauri
A flock of c. 50 birds at La Salinas on 29/2. All were still in non-breeding plumage.
Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla
At least 200 at Los Chinos Laguna near Najasa on 4/3.
Laughing Gull Leucophaeus atricilla
Up to ten seen at the Cayo Coco causeway on 5/3 and 7/3, and four at Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3.
Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia
At least 50 at La Salinas on 29/2.
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Royal Tern Thalasseus maxima
Four at La Salinas on 29/2. More numerous on the northern Cayos, with one at the Tryp Cayo Coco
on 5/3, at least 30 at Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3, and ten or more on Los Colonades Beach on
Cayo Coco, also on 6/3.
Forster’s Tern Sterna forsteri
A bird in non-breeding plumage over the reservoir southwest of Havana on 28/2.
Rock Dove Columba livia
Noted on five days, usually while driving through or near towns and villages.
White-crowned Pigeon Patagioenas leucocephala
Four birds showed well in the early morning at Soroa on 26/2. In Zapata, at least 200 flew overhead in
the early morning as we were driving from Playa Larga to Bermejas, these presumably having just left
their overnight roost, and ten or more there later in the afternoon. Finally, one perched in the
mangroves by the Tryp Cayo Coca on 6/3.
Scaly-naped Pigeon Patagioenas squamosa
One at Soroa on 26/2 and at least six at La Guira National Park close to Cuevas de los Portales on
27/2, some of which showed their ‘scaly napes’ nicely as they gave prolonged perched views.
Plain Pigeon Patagioenas inornata
Although initially elusive, at least two were eventually seen distantly at La Belen on 26/2. Later that
day, en route to Los Chinos Laguna, six or more birds showed very nicely from the roadside, then one
was found in a tree close to the small reservoir near Rancho la Belen in the evening.
Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
Common on the northern cays, particularly around the hotels on Cayo Coco. Originally introduced into
the New World on New Providence, Bahamas, in the 1970s, it has since spread quickly across the
North American continent, including Cuba.
American Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura
Common, widespread and recorded on nine days.
Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita
Two at Soplillar on 29/2, then eight at the Bermejas dove feeding station and three at the drinking pool
later on 2/3. Two at the feeding station at Cueva del Jabali on Cayo Coco on 5/3.
White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica
One at Bermejas on 2/3 was the only sighting.
Common Ground Dove Columbina passerina
Widespread in small numbers with up to ten birds noted on eight days between 26/2 and 6/3.
Grey-fronted Quail-dove Geotrygon caniceps ENDEMIC
Two showed briefly by a drinking pool in forest at Bermejas on 2/3. We returned to a nearby pool in
the forest later that same afternoon where one bird showed extremely well for several minutes.
Key West Quail-dove Geotrygon chrysia
One at the dove feeding station at Bermejas on 2/3, and at least three at the feeding station at Cueva
del Jabali on Cayo Coco on 5/3.
Blue-headed Quail-dove Starnoenas cyanocephala ENDEMIC
Three birds showed superbly at the dove feeding station at Bermejas on 2/3.
Great Lizard Cuckoo Saurothera merlini
Widespread with up to seven birds seen on six dates. All were of the browner form S. m. merlini that is
endemic to Cuba. Size and behaviour of this species resembles that of the smaller Asian malkohas.
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
A common and widespread species, noted on nine days from 26/2 to 5/3. Usually goes around in
small groups and roosts communally.
Bare-legged Owl Margarobyas lawrencii ENDEMIC
One was peering from a hole in a palm stump at Soplillar on 29/2 but retreated inside when a West
Indian Woodpecker landed on the same trunk and began climbing towards the hole. Formerly known
as Cuban Screech Owl.
Cuban Pygmy Owl Glaucidium siju ENDEMIC
Singles seen in woodland areas at La Guira National Park close to Cuevas de los Portales on 27/2, at
Bermejas on 2/3 and at La Belen on 4/3. Others heard on fours dates.
Stygian Owl Asio stygius
One showed superbly at its daytime roost near Pálpite on 1/3. Race A.s.siguapa is endemic to Cuba.
Chimney Swift Chaetura pelagica
At least two and possibly up to six in flight over San Diego de los Baños just after sunrise on 28/2.
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Antillean Palm Swift Tachornis phoenicobia
Common around Soroa, San Diego de los Baños and in the Zapata region, with up to 30 daily on 26/2
and 27/2. Birds were roosting and possibly nesting in the thatch roof of the restaurant in our hotel at
San Diego. Between two and ten daily from 29/2 to 2/3 in the Zapata region, typically in feeding
parties that quickly moved on. The only other sighting was of c. 20 birds nesting in the thatched roof of
a roadside rest area c. 170 km east of Havana on 7/3.
Cuban Emerald Chlorostilbon ricordii
Common and widespread, being noted on ten days from 26/2 to 6/3 with up to eight birds seen daily.
Bee Hummingbird Mellisuga helenae ENDEMIC
This diminutive hummer, the world’s smallest bird, ranked highly on everyone’s most-wanted list.
Although localised and apparently in decline we thankfully saw three birds, a male and two females,
really well at their preferred flowering trees at Bermejas on 2/3.
Cuban Trogon Priotelus temnurus ENDEMIC
Common and widespread in most woodlands visited with sightings on six days from 26/2 at Soroa to
La Belen on 5/3. Numerous at Soroa, Bermejas and during our hike at La Belen where at least six
birds were seen at each location and others heard. This is Cuba’s national bird, its colours also being
those of the national flag.
Belted Kingfisher Megaceryle alcyon
A total of 11 singles noted over lakes and wetlands throughout the island on seven dates.
Cuban Tody Todus multicolor ENDEMIC
Fairly common and widespread in woodland areas at Soroa, La Guira National Park, the Zapata
region at Soplillar and Bermejas, and at La Belen. The highest day count was four at Bermejas on 2/3.
West Indian Woodpecker Melanerpes superciliaris
Common, widespread and recorded daily from 26/2 to 6/3.
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker Sphyrapicus varius
Seen on five days, including what was presumably the same female at Soroa on 26/2 that we watched
here in 2015, in exactly the same tree. Others were seen in the Zapata region at the crocodile
breeding centre on 28/2 and around the hotel at Playa Larga on 1/3, along the entrance track at
Rancho la Belen on 4/3 and 5/3, and also on Cayo Coca on 5/3.
Cuban Green Woodpecker Xiphidiopicus percussus ENDEMIC
This very smart woodpecker was seen on eight days from 26/2 to 6/3 at most woodland locations
visited. Typically sightings were of single birds but occasionally noted in pairs.
Northern Flicker Colaptes auratus
Two singles on Cayo Coca on 6/3. The race C. a. chrysocaulosus is endemic to Cuba. One of the
yellow-shafted forms, which differs from eastern North American birds by its cheeks and throat being
pale tan and contrasting with the grey crown, the mantle is olive-green, the rump is spotted and the tail
is heavily barred and longer than northern birds, the ventral markings appear barred rather than
spotted, and the wings are long and rounded. The male shows a black malar and red nape crescent.
Fernandina's Flicker Colaptes fernandinae ENDEMIC
One flew past our group at Soplillar on 29/2, giving rather unsatisfactory views for some, while for
others it had vanished before they got onto it. Fortunately we encountered six or more birds in
roadside palms east of Bermejas on 2/3 which showed very nicely. In this area they appeared to be
colonial breeders with three females attending nests in neighbouring trees within 20 m of each other.
Northern Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Regularly seen this year, with two at Soplillar on 29/2, one at Santo Tomás on 1/3, three in the
Bermejas region on 2/3, singles at Playa Larga on 3/3 and La Belen on 4/3, at least four at Cayo
Paredón Grande on 6/3, and further singles at Cayo Coco on 6/3 and 7/3.
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
A common and widespread species that we saw daily in small numbers every day. The race F. s.
sparverioides is endemic to Cuba and the Bahamas and it occurs in both pale and dark colour
morphs. The pale morph is almost entirely white below, lacking the faint buff wash shown by North
American breeders, while the dark morph is warm dark chocolate brown below. These colour morphs
frequently breed with each other.
Peregrine Falco peregrinus
A juvenile on the ground by the small reservoir at La Belen on 5/3 and a distant adult on Cayo
Paredón Grande on 6/3. Birds which winter this far south are likely to be tundra breeding birds from
eastern Canada, of the race F. p. tundrius.
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Cuban Parakeet Aratinga euops ENDEMIC
Six birds flew overhead at Santo Tomás on 1/3, several parties totalling 50 or more birds noted at
Bermejas on 2/3, at least 15 seen during our hike at La Belen on 4/3, and six along the approach track
to Rancho la Belen on 5/3.
Cuban Parrot Amazona leucocephala ENDEMIC
Regularly seen and heard in the Zapata region from 29/2 to 3/3, including around the hotel at Playa
Larga. Elsewhere, at least ten during our hike at La Belen on 4/3 and two along the approach track to
La Belen on 5/3.
Cuban Pewee Contopus caribaeus
Widespread and seen on nine dates from 26/2 to 6/3. Noted at Soroa, San Diego de los Baños, La
Guira National Park, all sites visited in the Zapata region, La Belen and Cayo Paredón Grande.
Giant Kingbird Tyrannus cubensis ENDEMIC
This bulky kingbird was only seen in the La Belen region, with two on the access track to Rancho la
Belen in the early mornings of 4/3 and 5/3, and at least six seen during our hike around the reserve at
La Belen on 4/3.
Loggerhead Kingbird Tyrannus caudifasciatus
Recorded from widespread locations throughout Cuba and seen on eight days from 26/2 to 6/3, with
up to six birds daily.
La Sagra's Flycatcher Myiarchus sagrae
In the west, singles noted at Soroa on 26/2 and at Cuevas de los Portales in La Guira National Park
on 27/2. In Zapata, three were at Soplillar on 29/2, one at Santo Tomás on 1/3 and two at Bermejas
on 2/3. Also two at Rancho la Belen on 5/3 and one on Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3.
White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus
One at Soroa on 26/2 was a leader only bird.
Thick-billed Vireo Vireo crassirostris
After a prolonged wait for a singing bird to put in an appearance, three birds eventually showed well to
everyone on Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3. The coastal mangroves on this small island are the only
regular site for this attractive species in Cuba.
Cuban Vireo Vireo gundlachii ENDEMIC
A total of six birds seen or heard on three dates. Singles at Cuevas de los Portales in La Guira
National Park on 27/2, and in woodland near San Diego de los Baños later the same day, and in the
Zapata region at Soplillar on 29/2 and Bermejas on 2/3.
Yellow-throated Vireo Vireo flavifrons
One showed well at Soroa on 26/2.
Cuban Palm Crow Corvus minutus ENDEMIC
Noted a La Belen, with at least 12 seen on the reserve during our hike on the morning of 4/3, followed
by a couple walking around the horses near the approach road to Rancho la Belen later the same day.
Often feeds on the ground and walks, rather than adopting the bounding gait of Cuban Crow.
Cuban Crow Corvus nasicus ENDEMIC
Regularly seen in the Zapata region, the first being at the crocodile farm on 28/2. Thereafter, noted
daily until 5/3 including up to four around the hotel at Playa Larga. Abundant at La Belen where it was
a noisy and conspicuous species around the ranch, particularly at dawn. At least 60 birds seen on 4/3
and ten or more near the ranch on 5/3. Rarely seen on the ground, instead preferring to feed in the
crowns of palms and the tree canopy.
Tree Swallow Tachycineta bicolor
At least ten over Hato de Jicarita on 28/2, 12 or more over the road and marsh north of the crocodile
farm towards dusk on 1/3, and two or more at Santo Tomás on 2/3.
Cuban Martin Progne cryptoleuca ENDEMIC
Four near San Diego de los Baños on 27/2, two at Soplillar on 29/2 and two east of Bermejas on 2/3.
Cuban Martin is a summer visitor to Cuba, arriving from early February onwards but large numbers
had yet to arrive and it was still too early for them to have returned to their breeding colonies. Although
these birds could not be separated from Purple Martin P. subis at the distances we watched them,
Purple Martin is an early spring migrant through Cuba, arriving in the southern USA from mid-February
onwards, and sightings there are already widespread north to Kentucky and Virginia by early March.
Our birds were most likely wandering Cuban Martins.
Cave Swallow Pterochelidon fulva
Cave Swallow is a summer visitor to Cuba and appeared to be present in good numbers at the time of
our visit. The first were 20 or more at the Cuevas de los Portales in La Guira National Park on 27/2.
The breeding colony under the road bridges by the reservoir at km 264 near Santa Clara which we
discovered last year was again occupied this year. In fact, birds appeared to be nesting under many of
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the bridges under the A1 Autopista and we estimated 300+ birds along the road from Santa Clara as
far as Taguasco on 2/3. Other sightings included 100 or more en-route from La Belen to Cayo Coca
on 5/3, and one over Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3. Nest building had only just begun so it seems
likely that these birds had only recently returned to their breeding sites.
Zapata Wren Ferminia cerverai ENDEMIC
Zapata Wren is confined to the marshes of the Zapata National Park where it is localised and scarce,
making it one of Cuba’s more difficult endemics to see. On 2/3 we made the long drive out to the
village of Santo Tomás which lies in the centre of the marsh and was the location where this species
was originally discovered in 1926. After an 800 m ride in a punt, we reached a study site where we
were treated to brief views of this ultra-skulking wren that behaves more like a Locustella.
Blue-grey Gnatcatcher Polioptila caerulea
One at Soplillar on 29/2 was the only sighting. A winter visitor from eastern North America.
Cuban Gnatcatcher Polioptila lembeyei ENDEMIC
An immature on Cayo Coca on 5/3 and two or more on Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3.
Grey Catbird Dumetella carolinensis
Fairly common and widespread in the Zapata region, where it was noted daily between 28/2 and 2/3.
The highest day count was eight on 2/3 in woodland near Bermejas on 2/3.
Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos
Common, widespread and up to 22 seen daily throughout the tour. Now common on the northern cays
where it is impacting on the localised Bahama Mockingbird.
Bahama Mockingbird Mimus gundlachii
In Cuba this species is confined to the northern cays and becoming increasingly difficult to find. This
year Brian was the only person to see one, on Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3, when it appeared briefly
before being chased off by two Northern Mockingbirds.
Cuban Solitaire Myadestes elisabeth ENDEMIC
A singing male showed well at Soroa on 26/2. At least four singing birds heard near Cuevas de los
Portales on 27/2 but all remained out of view. This localised endemic is best found in the western hills
of the Sierra del Rosario and La Guira National Park.
Red-legged Thrush Turdus plumbeus
Common, fairly widespread and seen seven days between 26/2 and 6/3. Most numerous in La Guira
National Park with 30+ on 27/2. Less common in forested areas in the Zapata region and La Belen.
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Widespread but restricted to human habitation and seen on nine days. Introduced from Europe.
Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata
One with grassquits in fields near our hotel at San Diego de los Baños on 27/2 may have been a
leader only bird. There were just too many good birds happening here at the time and it may have
been overlooked by most. Introduced to Cuba from southeast Asia.
Tennessee Warbler Leiothlypis peregrina
Two feeding in a fruiting tree at Hacienda de Cortina on 27/2.
Northern Parula Setophaga americana
One of the commoner and most widespread of the wintering wood-warblers, found throughout the
island, with birds seen on nine days between 26/2 and 6/3.
Mangrove Warbler Setophaga petechia
A singing male showed well in mangroves at La Salinas on 29/2 and a pair on Cayo Paredón Grande
on 6/3. Breeding birds in Cuba are of the race S. p. gundlachi, which is restricted to Cuba and
southernmost Florida. Males resemble the North American breeding Yellow Warbler but the yellow
tones are deeper and more intense and the red streaking on the breast and flanks is more prominent.
Although treated by IOC as a distinct species, the Mangrove Warbler, this is not followed by the
Clements list, which still maintains all taxa in the Yellow Warbler complex as Yellow Warblers S.
petechia, and the Cuba birds fall into the ‘Golden Warbler’ group of races that are confined to the
Caribbean region. Our bird on 29/2 responded vigorously to playback of the song of a North American
Yellow Warbler, to which the song was virtually identical.
Cape May Warbler Setophaga tigrina
Widespread in small numbers and seen on four days. Two females at Hacienda de Cortina on 27/2, a
male at the crocodile farm near Pálpite on 1/3, a male and female during our hike at La Belen on 4/3,
and a male and female in mangroves on Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3. At the time of our visit the
males had moulted into their very smart breeding plumage.
Black-throated Blue Warbler Setophaga caerulescens
Another of the commoner and more widespread of the wintering wood-warblers, seen on eight days
between 26/2 and 5/3. Throughout the island males greatly outnumbered females, we only saw about
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six females throughout the tour. This species was particularly wary of the numerous large bees that
were drinking by the water’s edge of the pool in Bermejas on 2/3 and several attempts to reach the
water were aborted.
Yellow-rumped Warbler Setophaga coronata
One briefly at a service area along the Autopista on 28/2, at least eight in low scrub near the lake edge
at Los Chinos Laguna on 4/3, and one on Cayo Coca on 6/3. All were of the nominate, eastern race,
formerly known as the Myrtle Warbler. Hopefully this split will be resurrected in the near future and we
can all enjoy Myrtle Warbler once again.
Black-throated Green Warbler Setophaga virens
Seen on just three days, with three at Soroa on 26/2, one near the hotel at San Diego de los Baños on
27/2, and a male and female coming to drink at the pool at Bermejas on 2/3. Males in breeding
plumage are just stunning!
Yellow-throated Warbler Setophaga dominica
Another really smart wood-warbler which we regularly encountered. Seen on seven days at many
locations including Soroa, Hacienda de Cortina, several sites in Zapata and La Belen. Mostly singles
but six or more at Soplillar on 29/2.
Prairie Warbler Setophaga discolor
Singles at the crocodile centre north of Pálpite on 28/2, Soplillar on 29/2, Playa Larga on 1/3,
Bermejas on 2/3, two at La Belen on 4/3 and one at Cayo Coca on 5/3.
Olive-capped Warbler Setophaga pityophila
At least six in pines above Hacienda de Cortina in La Guira National Park on 27/2. This species is a
common breeder in pine forests in the hills of western Cuba, and also occurs in the Bahamas.
Currently treated as a monotypic species.
Palm Warbler Setophaga palmarum
The most numerous and widespread of the wintering North American wood-warblers. Seen daily from
26/2 to 6/3 with up to 30 birds noted each day. This species appears to moult somewhat later than
other species, and we found very few in breeding plumage. Of those in which moult had commenced,
it had not progressed to a point that would allow us to identify individuals to either of the two races; all
birds we saw resembled ‘Western Palm Warbler’ but ‘Eastern Palm Warbler’ S. p. hypochrysea
migrates along the Atlantic coast of North America and winters across southeast USA, so should
occur in Cuba.
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
Ones and twos regularly encountered, and recorded on six dates from 26/2 to 6/3.
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla
Another commonly encountered wood-warbler, seen daily from 26/2 to 6/3, with up to five birds seen
each day.
Worm-eating Warbler Helmitheros vermivorum
Two mobile and elusive birds at Soplillar on 29/2, and three or four which showed superbly when they
came to drink and bathe at a pool on the forest floor at Bermejas in the late afternoon on 2/3.
Swainson’s Warbler Limnothlypis swainsonii
One appeared three times and joined the Worm-eating Warblers to drink and bathe at the pool in the
forest at Bermejas on 2/3. Outstanding views of this forest floor skulker.
Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapilla
In the Zapata region, at least four at Soplillar on 29/2 and four at Bermejas on 2/3. Elsewhere, one at
the feeding station at Cueva del Jabali on Cayo Coco on 5/3.
Northern Waterthrush Parkesia noveboracensis
Singles seen at Soplillar on 29/2 and Santo Tomás on 1/3. Others heard at both these locations.
Louisiana Waterthrush Parkesia motacilla
At least five at Soroa on 26/2, including one feeding in the open behind the hotel kitchen, and two
almost running around our feet during lunch by the river. The others were in more typical shady,
streamside habitats. Singles noted at San Diego de los Baños on 27/2 and Hato de Jicarita on 28/2.
Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas
More frequently heard than seen, and recorded on five dates, including Soroa on 26/2, Soplillar and
La Salinas on 29/2, Santo Tomás on 1/3, and east of Bermejas on 2/3.
Yellow-headed Warbler Teretistris fernandinae ENDEMIC
Two at Soroa on 26/2, two at Hacienda de Cortina on 27/2, and at least three at Santo Tomás on 1/3.
This species is endemic to western Cuba.
Oriente Warbler Teretistris fornsi ENDEMIC
At least four at Cayo Coco and Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3. Endemic to eastern Cuba.
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Cuban Oriole Icterus melanopsis ENDEMIC
Two immatures at San Diego de los Baños on 27/2 and two adults there in the early morning of the
following day. These were followed by singles at Hato de Jicarita on 28/2, Bermejas on 2/3 and La
Belen on 4/3. Now treated as a full species.
Cuban Blackbird Dives atroviolaceus ENDEMIC
Widespread and recorded daily from 26/2 to 6/3.
Red-shouldered Blackbird Agelaius assimilis ENDEMIC
After so many near-misses last year, all of which turned out to be Tawny-shouldered, it was satisfying
to finally secure crunching views of a pair of these endemic icterids, to the east of Bermejas on 2/3.
That said, the male looks and sounds just like Red-winged Blackbird of North America. The female,
however, is entirely black, lacking the red wing-coverts of the male, and quite different from the brown
streaked female Red-winged Blackbird.
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird Agelaius humeralis
Seen in small numbers on seven days between 28/2 and 6/3, usually as singles or small flocks. Noted
on three occasions in the Zapata region, including a flock of six or more at the hotel at Playa Larga
just after sunrise on 3/3. Most numerous at La Belen with 30+ there on 4/3. On some birds the pale
shoulder patch can be exceeding difficult to see, on others it can appear deceptively reddish when the
birds aren’t flying. But in flight it appears pale orange rather than vermillion red of Red-shouldered.
Greater Antillean Grackle Quiscalus niger
Widespread and recorded daily from 26/2 to 6/3.
Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna
At least three in fields as we approached Najasa on 3/3, two of which showed well, allowing ‘scope
views. Also, two briefly in the same area from the coach as we left La Belen on 5/3. The race S. m.
hippocrepis is endemic to Cuba and has been mooted as a possible split from Eastern Meadowlark.
Zapata Sparrow Torreornis inexpectata ENDEMIC
A singing male was heard in trees by the channel at Santo Tomás on 1/3 but stubbornly refused to
show. Thankfully, a pair showed very well on Cayo Coca in the early morning on 6/3. This rare and
localised endemic is restricted to three discrete regions of Cuba. The nominate race is restricted to the
marshes of Zapata, another race, T. i. varonai is numerous within its very restricted range on Cayo
Coco. A third race, T. i. sigmani, is restricted to a small stretch of the southeast coast in Guantánamo.
Cuban Bullfinch Melopyrrha nigra
At least six at La Guira National Park near the Cuevas de los Portales on 27/2, singles at Santo
Tomás on 1/3 and Bermejas on 2/3, three at Cueva del Jabali on Cayo Coco on 5/3, and one the
following day on Cayo Paredón Grande while waiting for the Thick-billed Vireos to show.
Cuban Grassquit Tiaris canorus ENDEMIC
A female in the orchid garden at Soroa on 26/2, and ten or more with Yellow-faced Grassquits in fields
near our hotel at San Diego de los Baños on 27/2.
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivaceus
Common in the west with 10+ at Soroa on 26/2, at least eight at Cuevas de los Portales in La Guira
National Park on 27/2, and 30+ with Cuban Grassquits in fields near our hotel at San Diego de los
Baños later the same day. No further sightings until 2/3 when two were seen near Bermejas, followed
by two at Los Chinos Laguna near Najasa on 4/3, and at least four at the feeding station at Cueva del
Jabali on Cayo Coco on 5/3.
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus
Surprisingly, only seen at Soroa on 26/2, where two males and a female were seen along the forest
track and later, a male and one or two females were feeding on the flowering Bottlebrush trees in the
Orchid Gardens. Males are rather smart, females resemble female sunbirds.
Summer Tanager Piranga rubra
Five sightings on four days included an immature male at the Orchid Gardens at Soroa on 26/2, at
least two at Hacienda de Cortina on 27/2, a female above the drinking pool in the woodland at
Bermejas on 2/3, and another female at La Belen on 4/3.
Western Spindalis Spindalis zena
Noted on three dates, with one at the Orchid Gardens at Soroa on 26/2, six or more at La Guira
National Park and the Hacienda de Cortina on 27/2, and two on Cayo Paredón Grande on 6/3. Only
one female, the remainder being males.
Rose-breasted Grosbeak Pheucticus ludovicianus
At least six including at least two males with Indigo Buntings near San Diego de los Baños on 26/2.
Blue Grosbeak Passerina caerulea
At least four males and one female with Indigo Buntings near San Diego de los Baños on 26/2.
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Indigo Bunting Passerina cyanea
At least 30 feeding in overgrown fields with grassquits and frequently flying up into nearby scrub near
San Diego de los Baños on 26/2.
Mammals
The only mammals recorded on this tour were two species of bat at their daytime roost at Cuevas de los
Portales in La Guira National Park on 27/2. Based on the scientific names provided by our guide, Cesar,
these are:
Jamaican Fruit Bat Artibeus jamaicensis
Mexican Free-tailed Bat Tadarida brasiliensis
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