April 2015
In this issue...
Sewing Room of the Month..............................1
Members in the Spotlight..................................2
Membership Matters.........................................4
Bird’s Eye View..................................................4
Vale - Ronda Braybrook.....................................5
in2Mode Winner...............................................5
Be Brave with Beading.......................................6
McCalls - Job Opportunity.................................8
Tips & Techniques..............................................9
Diary Dates........................................................9
Contacts.............................................................9
Sewing Room of the Month
Elizabeth Woods (Highlands to the Sea Region, NSW) says she is a minimalist
so does not have a large stash of fabric or stuff she doesn’t use. “Wow” is
all I have to say. Perhaps we need to commission Elizabeth to give lessons in
self-control.
Her sewing room is an area of 2 metres x 1.80 metres and is in a passage way
down to the garage. This same area also serves as an office. Elizabeth uses
an office chair on wheels to scoot between machine and ironing board.
Check out this incredibly tidy work
area and storage cupboard. My
room looks exactly like this - NOT!
Let’s not even try to compete with
Elizabeth. How about next month
we go for the messiest sewing
room. Send in those pictures
ladies. You know who you are.
Send photos to [email protected]
PO Box 553, Civic Square, ACT 2608
www.aussew.org.au
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Members in the Spotlight
Anyone who has belonged to the Australian Sewing Guild for more than 5 minutes knows there are many
talented people among our ranks. This month we shine the spotlight on three of them.
History Lesson
Elly Logmans from the Semaphore-Lakeside Group (SA) created this
WWII nurse’s uniform at the request of the Inman Valley Quilters
Group who are planning an Anzac display as part of their 2015 quilt
exhibition.
The uniform is made, as much as possible, using sewing techniques
from that period e.g. flat fell seams, edge stitched, bias binding
around armholes, (no overlocking) and metal buttons on the dress.
Design of the uniform is based on a pattern labeled “ The Tailor’s
Apprentice’s Miss Page PatternCollection AANS WWII Uniform
1914-1918”
At closure of the exhibition the uniform will be donated to the
Victor Harbor RSL.
Queen of Hearts
by Penny Jackson, Region Organiser
Perth Metropolitan, WA
I am studying the Certificate IV in Applied Fashion Design and Technology
course at Polytechnic West. Last year we were given a project brief to design
and make a garment based on a character from Alice in Wonderland. The brief
also specified that the garment had to be ‘sustainable’. We were encouraged
to go to op shops and use recycled / repurposed materials.
I chose to base my garment on the Queen of Hearts. I used an old polyester
bed sheet ($3) and a damask table cloth ($4) that
I dyed red (dye $13). The lacings are a pair of long
shoe laces, the silver foil ‘train’ is the outside of an
air-conditioning duct tube that I pin tucked. The foil is
surprisingly tough and easy to sew. The heart shapes
are bread tags that I cut and painted.
Front view
The ‘bustle’ has a base of a cut down washing basket,
with layers of the polyester wadding that is around the
air-conditioning tube.
It took a long time to produce, but the interest for
me was in the design process. The quality of the
sewing was not assessed; it was the creativity that
was the point of the exercise. I enjoyed researching
the character of the Queen of Hearts and tried to
incorporate medieval elements as well.
Back view
PO Box 553, Civic Square, ACT 2608
www.aussew.org.au
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Alison Carter (NSW) entered
PatternReview’s Travel Wardrobe Contest,
winning 2nd prize with this collection.
Cool Casual Cruising
I’m doing a 7 day cruise for my daughter’s
21st birthday. We’ll be travelling along
the east coast of Australia visiting Hobart
& Melbourne. The cruise is in the middle
of summer but the weather could be
anything from 30C (86F) down to 18C
(64F).
I never wear sleeveless tops in the real
world but life on a cruise ship is different.
My wardrobe is a set of mix & match
co-ordinates that are made from travelfriendly fabric and pack small, so I have
less to carry.
Alison made four items for her collection:
1. Christine Jonson’s Keyhole Top - made from 2 different knits and it is reversible thus extending my travel
wardrobe without packing (or making!) an extra item.
2. White lace cardigan - Kwik Sew 2759
This cardi will go over both of my tops giving me a little extra coverage in the ship’s air conditioning. It
can also double as an evening outfit with a cami.
3. Colour blocked top - New Look 6735
4. I couldn’t find a suitable print for my second top so I decided to combine all the fabrics I’d already used.
This is a great use of scraps and also ensures this top goes with everything.
5. Mesh overshirt - Butterick 4989
6. This versatile piece can tie in various ways or be left open. It can also be used as a swimsuit coverup or
over my other tops as an evening option.
To complete the collection:
• White linen cropped pants which are very roomy and comfy. Perfect for any weight gain that may happen
on my cruise. Contrary to popular belief, linen travels well and just needs hanging & a spritz of water for
the creases to drop out.
• Red jeans go perfectly with my other items and are great for shore excursions or lounging around the
ship sipping cocktails.
PO Box 553, Civic Square, ACT 2608
www.aussew.org.au
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Membership Matters - from the Board
Amendments to the ASG Inc. Constitution
All members have received notification of proposed amendments to four (4) clauses in the ASG
Constitution and have been given the opportunity to comment. A handful of members had questions
and each one has received a reply. The closing date for comments is 15th April.
Every member will be sent a ballot paper either by email or postal mail, with instructions on how to
submit your vote. All votes must be received by midnight 23rd April 2015. Results of this vote will be
posted in the May newsletter.
Calling all talented sewers,
willing to share their expertise.
We would like to compile a library of sewing resources and the first
place to look is amongst our members. Have you written tutorials, given presentations, made
videos? Are you willing to share some of this knowledge with fellow Guild members? A simple
tutorial can be turned into an eBook; a PowerPoint presentation can become a video. You don’t need
to know how to do this yourself - just supply the raw material.
Join the ICT Team
Once we have a collection of sewing literature and resources, a team is required to turn these
into a format that can be shared online, via our website. Members of the ICT (Information &
Communication Technology) team will have experience in desktop publishing and/or using video
editing software.
If you would like to contribute in any way, please contact Louise Sparrow for more information.
[email protected]
Bird’s Eye View
Smaller stitches
please
Marrion Elliott (Foothills Sew n Sews NG, WA) has
found an interesting assistant. Labour is cheap but
she (he?) has a critical eye.
PO Box 553, Civic Square, ACT 2608
www.aussew.org.au
OK, looking better
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Vale - Ronda Braybrook (VIC)
Rhonda and husband Ian
Ronda Braybrook died peacefully on 11th March, 2015, after her battle with
cancer.
Ronda – a lady of many talents. She was visual, thought outside the square
and was open and honest. Could turn her hand to anything – if she didn’t
know it she would find out.
Ronda joined the Guild in 2003 in time to come on the committee for the
Geelong Convention. She took a great interest in the Guild right up until the
end, wanting to know what was happening and joining in when she was
well enough. She attended Conventions (tutored at some), ran workshops
for many Neighbourhood Groups, joined in shopping and overseas tours
and Industry Days. The last project Ronda organised for the Geelong NG in February was the flower made from a
zipper. Unable to attend herself, she taught one of the members the process and I was able to report back to her how
successful it had been.
Ronda also held several sewing classes and a pattern making class where we not only learned the finer art of sewing
and pattern making but also enjoyed a social get together with plenty of chat and laughter. These classes finished up
just before Christmas as Ronda was unable to continue.
Two of Ronda’s many sayings will ring in the ears of sewing students and local Neighbourhood Group members.
“There is no such thing as a DUMB question”
“Don’t sweat the small stuff”
Never one to have idle hands, in the last few months she taught herself to make beaded jewelry, then passed on the
craft to some of her students.
Ronda showed great courage in the face of adversity and never displayed self pity, instead thinking of others and
embarking on a project of making cot quilts for the “Geelong Mums” Group out of her stash – 14 in all. We knew she
was having a good day if another quilt was in the making.
Ronda will be missed immensely by her family but her fun-loving spirit, character and determination will live on in
all of them. Her passions for design, drafting, sewing and creativity have been inherited by some of her children and
grandchildren. What a wonderful legacy to have left.
Farewell to our sewing friend who will be sadly missed.
- Mary Armstrong, Geelong NG
Editor’s Note: Generous to the last, Ronda submitted an article for the newsletter before her passing.
We share “Be Brave with Beading” (page 6) as a tribute to a wonderful lady who will not be forgotten.
Thanks also to Sue Neall for forwarding this article.
...to Lyn Molloy who won the in2Mode tailoring
course. Eleven weeks with bespoke tailor Joshua Ton!
Well done Lyn. We look forward to seeing some fabulous garments.
Sydney’s leading fashion design institute
7/859 Pacific Highway, Pymble NSW 2073
www.in2mode.com.au
PO Box 553, Civic Square, ACT 2608
www.aussew.org.au
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Be Brave with Beading by Ronda Braybrook
Be Brave! So you have a big occasion coming up! Don’t sit back. Be the one up
front with the ‘wow’ factor. Wear a beaded outfit, and if not the whole shebang, at
least a top. So you’re apprehensive about sewing beaded fabrics - terrified might be
an even better description of what you really feel. Well, don’t be. With just a little bit
of knowledge and the ability to sew you will be the fashion sensation of the night.
So were do you start?
1. Design/Pattern - Select something you know really suits you. The design should
not be complicated because the beautiful fabric will be the main feature. Toile the
design to check that the fit and ‘sit’ of the garment is correct and what you want.
Any alterations should be marked back onto your pattern because you won’t get too
many second chances working with your beaded fabric. Check on the amount you
need or, better still, take the pattern with you and let the staff help. At the price you
are going to pay you won’t want to buy more than you need.
2. To the Store - And here is where you need to be brave because these fabrics will range from $100 to $500
per metre. Think about it though. It will be a special occasion and this garment from a designer store would set
you back considerably more than the cost of the fabic. This way you get exactly what you want. Make sure your
design will suit both a border or all-over design. Beaded fabrics are based on a backing fabric such as netting,
silk organza, silk georgette, tulle or often lace with the design highlighted with beads.
A big consideration is the weight of the beads. The heavier the beads, the more you will have to allow for
the drop of the fabric. This factor is not as critical for a top as it is for a skirt or all-through gown. Another
consideration is the fabric and the colour you put under your beaded fabric. Try lots of different colours and
finishes - shiny or matte will give different looks.
If the fabric has a border you will need enough to
go around the hips plus about 5 cm ease or use the
adjusted pattern as your guide. More will be required
if you want the border on the sleeves as well. It is best
to cut the sleeves from the other side of the fabric and
put some of your discarded beads around the edge of
the sleeve yourself. It’s a cheaper option. Remember
laces are ususally cut across the fabric rather than
along its length.
3. Taking to all that money with the scissors!
You know it is going to work. You have already trialled
your garment and made alterations to the pattern.
Lay-out is important. If there is a border you will need
to match up the pattern pieces to eliminate as many
seams as possible.
If it is a top, the seam will go down the left side to
take the zipper, if required. If it is a skirt or dress the
seam will go down the centre back. All other shaping
will be treated as darts to ensure the continuity of the
beading pattern.
Use very fine lace pins or glass heads and be careful
when handling, as the base fabric is very delicate.
Don’t cut through beads if you value your good
scissors. Pull beads out of the way where possible.
Sequins are usually plastic and will cut quite easily.
PO Box 553, Civic Square, ACT 2608
www.aussew.org.au
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4. Preparing your seams - All beads must be carefully removed from the seam allowances and the
‘internal’ part of any dart. Yes, it’s tedious but absolutely essential for a good finish, and you end up with a
nice stash of beads for future projects. Slide beads off the thread, being careful not to pull too roughly.
Some beading is applied using a hook rather than a needle and this method forms a chain stitch which will
unravel just by pulling the thread - very quick if you know when to stop pulling. If this is the method used for
your fabric, secure the stitch by passing the unravelled thread through the last loop and securing gently - or
use a needle.
Use a spot of ‘Fraycheck’ on the thread well inside the seam or dart allowance and allow to dry. Once your
pieces are cut they need to be well supported on your work surface and when they are carried from table to
machine to ironing board.
5. Sewing - I like to sew under-fabric and beaded fabric as one in darts and side seams to hip level. Below
that the layers should hang free.
However, BEFORE you get to sewing and hand basting darts, etc. you must allow for the hang and weight of
the beads. Remember, the longer the garment, the more weight and therefore the greater the drop. Pin/
baste your garment together at the hemline, allowing whatever overhang you desire for your lace/beads.
Carefully secure this on skirt hangers, making sure you have padded between the clip and the beading with
folded fabric or tissue. I use a wire coat hanger and lots of ordinary pegs to avoid any ‘sag’ in the fabric. Hang
the garment upside down and pin/baste where the layers should be. This may mean that when you sew, the
upper layer appears too short, but all will be well when you eventually turn it the right way up and the weight
will bring it back to the correct level.
Hand baste along the centre line of darts and side seams to ensure that both layers sit correctly. Sew darts
and side seams to hip level using a zipper foot and needle position on the left so your line of stitching is close
to the remaining beading. Clip upper layer to end of stitching and complete
seam below separately in both layers. Neaten, using whichever method
you prefer.
In the lace/organza/tulle layer use either French Seams or a double stitched
seam. Heavy overlocking is quite ugly in this type of garment and the less
stitching to be seen the better.
Set sleeves as per any other garment, again using a zipper foot and the
same neatening method as before.
6. Closures - I use an invisible zipper in a seam where the backing
fabric and outer are sewn as one. Complete the seam with all the layers
together for a few centimetres below the end of the zipper and then sew
the remaining seam as separate layers. Where there is no backing fabric, as
in the upper part of a bodice over a slip, turn back and press only to avoid
lines of sewing, or sew right on the edge of the fold.
7. Lining - Line as you would for any other garment.
8. Pressing - Use the base fabric as your guide when pressing.
Now go and wow them all at our next special function.
PO Box 553, Civic Square, ACT 2608
www.aussew.org.au
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McCalls - Job Opportunity
McCalls Pattern Service Pty Ltd
Position Description
Title: Sales and Marketing Associate, Australia
Reports To: Managing Director
Summary
The position has responsibility for all sales and marketing activities in Australia and New Zealand. Manage
the company’s relationships with all large customers. Develop, plan, and execute strategies for consumer
related programs including attendance of conferences, scheduling events, research, e-commerce, and social
media. The position also plays a key role working closely with the Managing Director and the marketing
team in the United States.
Background and Skills Required
1. Sales and marketing experience in consumer products and a home sewing enthusiast
2. Strong interpersonal skills to develop relationships and earn trust within the organization, with retail
customers, and home sewing consumers.
3. Exceptional written and oral communication and presentation skills
4. Good social media skills and experience in e-commerce
5. A passion for the home sewing and craft business
Specific Duties and Responsibilities
1. Primary point of contact with pattern buyers/merchandising teams at Spotlight and Lincraft
2. Review and approve all price promotion schedules for sewing patterns
3. Analyze the sales performance of customers, including price promotions results
4. Prepare all presentation materials for customer meetings and attend meetings
5. Manage and approve all marketing programs for special POS displays, in-store visual images, and all
other retail marketing programs
6. Develop and execute e-commerce, social media, and other consumer related marketing strategies
7. Plan and attend consumer conferences and other events throughout Australia
Apply to:
Cher Shang
Managing Director
McCalls Pattern Service Pty Ltd
P: +61 2 8713 1700
M: +61 403 253 980
E: [email protected]
PO Box 553, Civic Square, ACT 2608
www.aussew.org.au
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Tips & Techniques
Boning - Not Just for Corsets
When you think of boning in a garment what usually springs to mind is a
strapless gown or bustier. Mostly everyday garments don’t need to be boned
because they hang from the shoulders or waist and depend on gravity to keep
them looking right. However, there are times when a few bones in a daywear
garment are handy, e.g. helping a seam, skirt yoke, oversized waistband,
square neckline, or decorative fold stay put. Turn to page 10 to learn more.
Diary Dates
Contacts
15 April Dior and I - Exclusive viewing for ASG members
see website for details
President: Toni Stuart
[email protected]
12 - 14 June Bribie Island Retreat (QLD)
Vice President: Louise Sparrow
[email protected]
13 - 14 June Board meeting (Sydney)
2 May Brisbane North (Qld) Industry Day
Treasurer: Shirley Wood
[email protected]
9 May Sunshine Coast (Qld) Region Day
Exploring Image and Embellishment
Secretary: Judith Turner
[email protected]
20 June Sewaholics Expo
Gold Coast & Hinterland Region (Qld)
Membership Secretary: Evelyn Ross
[email protected]
8 August Perth Metro Inspirational Day
5 - 6 September Board meeting (Sydney)
NSW / ACT SLO: Wendy McKinnon
[email protected]
28 Septemer - 3 October ASG Convention
Churchies Grammar School, Brisbane
QLD SLO: Deb Evans
[email protected]
SA SLO: Di Hill
[email protected]
3 October Annual General Meetig (Brisbane)
16 October SA Industry Day
TAS SLO: Ros Grant
[email protected]
23 - 31 October Tasmania Tour - TOUR FULL
Sew Inspirational Events
VIC SLO: Janice McDonnell
[email protected]
20 - 22 November Bribie Island Retreat (QLD)
21 - 22 November Board meeting (Sydney)
WA SLO: Jude Ewen
[email protected]
NZ Liaison: Carol Mill
[email protected]
Tell us what you have been doing
Please send information, articles and pictures to
[email protected]. Need help with taking a good photo?
A guide to better photos is available on the
ASG website under Documents and Resources. Feedback is
also welcome.
Marketing: Sarah Johannson
[email protected]
AUSSEW News: Louise Sparrow
[email protected]
* All feedback will remain in strictest confidence.
PO Box 553, Civic Square, ACT 2608
www.aussew.org.au
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Boning - Not Just for Corsets
When you think of boning in a garment what usually springs to mind is a strapless gown or bustier. Mostly
everyday garments don’t need to be boned because they hang from the shoulders or waist and depend on
gravity to keep them looking right. However, there are times when a few bones in a daywear garment are
handy, e.g. helping a seam, skirt yoke, oversized waistband, square neckline, or decorative fold stay put.
A well-fitting garment should not ride up or slip down
when worn. For example, the fabric of a fitted skirt with
a high-yoked waistband tends to ride up at the hips,
choosing the path of least resistance, and moving toward
the smaller waist circumference and away from the
hips. At the same time, the section of waistband above
the waist wants to collapse or slip down. Boning the
waistband solves both problems.
Other garment areas that benefit from boning include
necklines, side seams, and midriffs. Square necklines are
notorious for gaping, especially when they span much of
the chest. A length of boning, placed horizontally along
the base of the square, keeps the edge straight and close
to the body. Necklines that form a wide V often sprout
Boning keeps necklines from gaping,
drag lines along the edge, and if the garment has sleeves,
bodices from sagging, waistbands in
place, and sculpted folds from rising up. arm movement intensifies the problem. But all these
problems are easily fixed with small vertical sections of boning.
Boning can also be used to straighten side seams on a bodice, even if the garment isn’t strapless. The bones
serve to counteract gravity, and keep a bodice made with a soft, drapey fabric from sagging. And if the
garment happens to be a one-shoulder dress, side-seam bones will even out the tension produced by one
side being supported and the other left to fend for itself.
It’s a simple process to install boning, since it only needs a fabric channel to hold it. Sew channels from
silk organza, which is lightweight and easy to hand-stitch, though you can use the heavier premade cotton
boning casing (remember to wash it first to pre-shrink it). Take care to not make the channels too loose or
too narrow -- 3/8 in. wide for 1/4-in. boning is about right. Sew the machine-stitched channels by hand over
seam allowances or by hand or machine onto an underlining.
Boning can often be added after the garment is complete and you notice something sagging or puckering.
Just stitch on a casing, and slip in the appropriate-sized bone. In this case you will have to sew the casing on
by hand.
PO Box 553, Civic Square, ACT 2608
www.aussew.org.au
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