Information on traveling through the Kaliningrad region by bicycle Dear friends, during the last six years I’ve received hundreds of emails from people who were interested in crossing the Kaliningrad region by bicycle following R1 route. Below you may find some practical advice and useful information which can help you to plan and make your trip in a more comfortable way. I support this project on voluntary basis so I’m trying to give you a weighted and independent opinion. Of course this information could be more valuable if you send me your brief feedback reports on your journey so we can improve this document together! If after reading this some questions remain please do not hesitate to ask me. Despite I’m traveling a lot outside of Kaliningrad region sometimes it is possible to catch me there, in my second Motherland. So If you’d like to meet me personally and to ask your questions on routes, sightseeing etc. you are welcome! I put my photo here so it could be easy to recognize me. Every year I meet a number of cyclists crossing Kaliningrad region and information exchange really help me to support this project. Enjoy your adventure and welcome to Kaliningrad! Kind regards, Oleg Alferov, Kaliningrad, Russia [email protected] 1. For crossing Russian border you need to have valid Russian visa. You may apply for it in the nearest Russian consulate in your country. For Russian visa you need an invitation. You may have confirmation that you've booked an hotel in Russia (and visa will be issued for days indicated in confirmation letter) or if you have an invitation from private person who posses Russian citizenship or public organization registered in Russia and then you may get visa for period indicated in this invitation. Having second option in mind you may get visa with more open dates and surely it is much more preferable for cyclists due to uncertainty of their travel. I was told that it is not a big problem to receive invitation and visa itself because some tourism bureau or specialized companies are offering such services in most of EU countries. So you must explore Internet or ask other cyclists on this issue. I’ve heard that in Poland and Germany there are companies who even offered on-line services and sending ready visa to you by post at the end. In Kaliningrad I've found only one company who offer such services: FILAND LTD., Kaliningrad, Kalinina sq.9, +7 4012 587148, [email protected]. I don't know them personally so I’m just sharing information as is. During phone conversation they confirmed that they could assist to foreign travelers by issuing invitation. Please contact them directly and ask for details. They speak English. 2. If you plan to travel to St. Petersburg through the Kaliningrad region you shall apply for a double entry visa because in that case you will cross the Russian border twice. 3. Please note that at entrance to Russia for foreign citizen it is necessary to fill the migratory card confirming the right to temporary stay in the country. You must receive blank of such card at Russian border checkpoint. Migratory card must be filled in Russian but if you don’t speak Russian – don’t worry! You allowed filling it by using Latin letters in accordance with data indicated in your passport or other ID. You need to fill out both ‘A’ and ‘B’ parts of migratory card – see Annex 2 and 3 below. Then it must be stamped and the Board Guard Officer must take part ‘A’ and you will get part ‘B’. Please keep it in 1 safe place – you’ll be asked for it when leaving Russia. After arrival of the foreign citizen on a residence (in many cases – hotel) he/she should be registered in terms of 7 working days. Registration can be done by foreign citizen itself or by inviting/hosting counterpart (i.e. private individuals with Russian citizenship, hotels, public organizations invited person etc.). For more information on registration issue please follow this link: http://www.waytorussia.net/RussianVisa/Registration.html It is possible to register by sending proper documents to Migration Office through post office. Please read more info on it here: http://blogs.waytorussia.net/item/59 Some people ask me how to register if they plan to live several days in tent. It is a problem as your tent not posses exact post address and more important you stay not at Russian inviting/hosting person. Unfortunately campsites I mentioned in this document also have no addresses. So you need to find and later to indicate some existing address where you plan to stay in Russia. Despite this there is solution for this problem: when you sent your registration form to migration office by registered mail you must receive a stamped paper confirmed that your letter on the way. It is not formal registration itself but it confirm that you fulfill a requirement and your registration process on the way. In most of cases you leave Russia before officials answer you. But you followed formal procedures so you are clean and act in accordance with law. Important information: foreign citizens who have arrived to Russia for no more than three working days i.e. 72 hours (for instance: transit from Poland to Lithuania or opposite direction) are not a subject of registration! Holidays and weekends (Saturday and Sunday) are not counted! 4. Important information: it is possible to obtain a short-term tourism visa (period of stay in Kaliningrad region not longer than 72 hours) for citizens of Schengen countries, Great Britain, Switzerland and Japan by applying directly to six tourism agencies in Kaliningrad: 1) ‘Anuta’ http://www.anuta.ru/; 2) ‘Baltma’ http://www.baltma.ru/; 3)‘Universalstroy’ http://www.uni-tour.ru/; 4) ‘Brizen’ http://www.brisen.koenig.ru/; 5) ‘Swena Tour’ http://www.swena.ru/; 6) ‘Nocturne’ http://www.nocturne.ru/. You may find emails and phones on a websites indicated above. Some of websites in Russian only and others have an English and/or German part. You may find more information on a website of Representation of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Russia in Kaliningrad region: http://www.kaliningrad.mid.ru/eng/acc_002.html Please note that “visa at border” doesn’t mean that you just arrive and ask for it. Prior to your journey you still need to contact one of seven agencies indicated above and ask them for details. In Annex 1 below you may find a document I received from ‘Baltma’ agency. Please feel free to ask them questions. In case of “visa at border” solution I recommend you to enter Kaliningrad region from Poland at Mamonovo checkpoint as an representative of Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs constantly available there. If you plan to enter region from Lithuania it is better to travel via Nida to Morskoye – there is no waiting line at border checkpoint and very 2 beautiful landscapes! As far as I know it’s not possible to obtain a “visa at border” there. 5. As many of websites in Russia in national language only it could be a good idea to use a free online translation services. It doesn’t give you a smooth translation but it surely will help you to understand content of a webpage. There is a good Russian translation website: http://www.online-translator.com/Default.aspx?prmtlang=en – you may choose from several languages here. 6. When you arrive at the Polish/Russian border or Lithuanian/Russian border please do not wait in a car line, just go to the Border checkpoint. Be confident and be polite. You have right to cross border and nothing can stop you! 7. There are no problems crossing the Lithuanian-Russian border at Nida-Morskoe checkpoint in both directions. If you go to Lithuania it’s better to cycle along the Curonian Spit as it is a National Park with exciting nature (sandy dunes, pine-tree woods and interesting sightseeing points) and asphalt road with moderate traffic. 8. Situation at the Polish/Russian border looks as follows: a. The Mamonovo-Grzechotki border checkpoint (54025’14.40’’N 20003’57.00’’E) was finally opened in late 2010 and fully operational. b. The Goldap-Gusev border checkpoint (54020’31.00’’N 22017’54.00’’E) is opened for cyclists and you may pass there freely, but it’s too far to east from the main road which goes alongside of the Baltic Sea. Form the other hand it’s famous Rominta! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rominten For centuries it was a hunting wood of rulers of East Preussen. It is really tiny place with low traffic but only problem is that area is closed for visitors so you have rights for transit only. Below please find more information on closed areas in Kaliningrad region. c. The Mamonovo-Gronowo border checkpoint (54026’20.00’’N 19054’05.00’’E) is for cars, buses and light trucks. There is no walking pass. Cyclists are eligible to pass there as bicycle is considered to be a vehicle. It is worth to note that majority of cyclists want to cross the Polish/Russian border exactly there because it’s a direct way to/from Gdansk (or Elblag, or Frombork), Poland. Since 2006 the Russian Border Guards do let European cyclists to pass this border freely. During last five years I’ve no written evidences from cyclists that any problems there with border crossing. Opposite people say to me that they cross border smooth and easily. d. The Bezledy-Bagrationovsk border checkpoint (54022’20.00’’N 20039’35.00’’E) is for cars, buses and heavy trucks. It is used mainly for lorries so if there is no special need for you to pass border there please try to avoid this checkpoint. 9. If you are somehow stuck at the Russian-Polish border please do not give up and consider it as an adventure. Talking to Russian officials please be polite but insist on your intention to go to Kaliningrad. If things get worth and you became refused you still may stop a proper light truck or microbus and ask the driver to pick up you and your bike. It really works – you cross the border in a vehicle and then in 100 meters you may get out of the vehicle and drive by yourself. It is absolutely legal. Note: you may be asked by the driver to pay small money. 3 Advise: ask Russian border officer to help you catching the vehicle. In that case you may save your money and time. Practically there are no drivers at the border checkpoint who refuse to border officer if he/she asks. But once again: there was no complains on border crossing during last five years. If you have some facts please inform me on that. 10. There are some restricted areas in the Kaliningrad region so for avoidance of any problems you shall answer to Russian officers at the border that you are going to the Kaliningrad city directly (hotel “Baltica” camping for instance [email protected] (54042’26.00’’N 20037’02.00’’E) or another hotel which is booked for you). For your information: “Baltica” hotel poses camping field which is suitable for mobile houses and tents. Toilet is for free and available on the ground floor of the hotel. For shower and other facilities arrangements please ask administrator. Reception phone: +7 4012 353400. From the other hand “Baltica” is a bit far from city center so it is up to you to decide where you plan to stay. Below you may find more information about hotels. 11. In year 2008 and 2009 number of cyclists have tried new way sailing from Sassnitz to Baltijsk by ferry and then start cycling to Kaliningrad, Svetlogorsk, Zelenogradsk and to Nida. I’ve received very positive comments from them so it was an alternative way to Kaliningrad. But in 2010 this connection was stopped and unfortunately we don’t have any operational ferry line at the moment. 12. Please note that camping place is situated in Yantarny (artificial lake situated close to the Baltic Sea coastline – so called ‘Amber coast’) (54052’44.00’’N 19056’32.00’’E). Campsite belongs to the diving club ‘Demersus’: Phone: +7 (4012) 387811 [email protected] website: http://www.demersus.ru They have toilet and summer shower, place for open fire and barbeque, security, night light, sport tools, playground for kids and access to sandy beach. There are nice café and comfortable toilet 100 meters away from the campsite. Parking for cars is available. Lake is very clean and deep – it’s real pleasure to swim there. Because ‘Demersus’ is more diving club than campsite please ask them directly for possibility to stay as well as for prices. Аnother campsite was opened in 2009 and it is named ‘Tent Camp Robinson’ http://www.robin-camp.ru/ - it is possible to rent tent directly at place. They have security, parking, WC, water. Campsite is situated close to the sandy beaches of Baltic sea. 13. It also might be a good idea to spend your time in Yantarny (former Palmnicken) as it’s a place of the biggest open excavation of amber in the World (54051’50.00’’N 19058’00.00’’E). According to the statistics more than 90% of world’s amber deposit is situated there. There are the widest sandy beaches of the Kaliningrad region and they have a restaurant situated directly on the beach (54053’06.00’’N 19056’05.00’’E) – at this road cross (54052’47.10’’N 19056’06.86’’E) you shall take left road (if you are going from the South) and drive down the hill. 4 14. If you want to stay overnight in your tent I can recommend you a very nice place directly at the Baltic Sea – Vzmorye village (54056’50.00’’N 20001’20.00’’E). There is no official camping site there but in summer time a lot of people visit this place because the road allows you to drive your car or bicycle directly to the beach. (I can’t guarantee you that road still in good condition but you may try at least). Some people stay there overnight and sleep in cars or tents. This place is also considered as a sightseeing point (from the top of the hill). 15. Russians are very friendly and polite. There is no robbery on a road or in camping place but please do not leave your things apart from you. Hide your mobile phone, photo camera or GPS device in your bag or in your pocket when you don’t use it. These are just reasonable security measures suitable for any country in the world. 16. If you want to stay in Kaliningrad for a night I can suggest you to look at this hotel: http://villa-severin.ru/ (54043’59.60’’N 20031’24.00’’E). It's multilingual website of the very nice hotel situated in tiny park zone close to the city center. Owner of this hotel is very reliable person and his target group of customers are foreigners. Price range wide and starts from low-medium margin. It's up to you to choose small cheap room or apartment. They have storage facilities for bicycles. Staff speaks foreign languages. 17. Another good guest house with reasonable prices is ‘Paraiso’, situated on Turgeneva str., 32A, phone +7 (4012) 216969, http://hotelparaiso.ru/rus/ [email protected] (54044’01.00’’N 20031’04.50’’E). 18. In this hotel in Kaliningrad city foreign cycling tourists stays: http://www.goldenbay.ru (54041’50.14’’N 20030’30.70’’E). 19. In Kaliningrad city you may rent some apartments. Contact person: Mr. Vitaly Gut [email protected] phone: +7 4012 766101 mobile: +7 921 6164962 http://www.kaliningrad.myline24.com/index.php 20. Of course I’ve indicated only few hotels and we have hundreds of them. On R1 website you may find separate list of hotels of Kaliningrad region аnd even this list is not complete. So it’s up to you to explore Internet and to choose where you prefer to live. But if you’ve used hotel service in Kaliningrad already please send me your comments as we need a feedback. Then I’ll be able to update this info letter and you may help to other cyclists! 21. There are websites which could help you to plan your trip are: http://www.v-kaliningrade.ru/ - hotels and general info on Kaliningrad city; http://v-svetlogorsk.ru/ - same but it cover Svetlogorsk area; http://v-zelenogradsk.ru/ - Zelenogradsk and close territories; http://na-kosu.ru/ - helpful info on Kuronian Spit; http://www.park-kosa.ru/ - general info on Kuronian Spit. 22. In the Kaliningrad region we have some agritourism guest houses (or so called Manor Houses) which in many cases are cheaper than hotels and often it is possible to stay in your tent just using farm facilities. Here you may find some helpful information: http://www.agrotourism.narod.ru/ - in Russian, English and German language 5 If you are going from Mamonovo through Kaliningrad to Nida you are crossing mainly Zelenogradsky district so please search for accommodation directly there: http://www.agrotourism.narod.ru/zelenogradsky.htm http://www.kldtur.ru/rest/rural/ - another site on agrotourism in Kaliningrad region. 23. In general you may sleep in your tent almost everywhere except for seven-kilometer border zone, towns and villages. You may stay at lakes, in a wood or in a wild field. 24. Please note that the Curonian Spit (your way to/from Lithuania) is the National Park under protection of UNESCO so it’s not allowed to set up your tent there and to use campfire. But there are hotels and guest houses on this wonderful peninsula. 25. At the entrance to the National Park (54058’33.00’’N 20031’15.00’’E) there is a checkpoint where small ecological fee is charged from cars and motorcycles. Bicycles may pass there freely and with no charge because it is ecology friendly transport. If some questions would be addressed to you just say that you are on your transit way to Lithuania. But normally there are no questions to cyclists and it is public area. For small money you may get a booklet with most interesting places worth to visit. The Efa dune near Morskoe (55013’19.70’’N 20053’31.35’’E – entrance road to Efa; 54013’16.00’’N 20054’25.00’’E – Efa dune itself) is a great sightseeing point where you may watch the Curonian Gulf and the Baltic Sea at the same time. Please believe me that its true pleasure to cycle alongside of the Curonian Spit as it is flat and the traffic is low. Please note, that there are two camping on Curonian Spit: ‘Lesnoye’ (55001’00.50’’N 20036’49.00’’E) http://camprus.ru/ ‘Dunes’ (55002’44.00’’N 20040’34.00’’E) – I’m not sure is it possible to put your tent there, but they offering some camp trailers. 26. Svetlogorsk and Zelenogradsk are resort areas so there are plenty of hotels there but in summer time it’s difficult to book a hotel because too many visitors come from Russia and abroad. In Svetlogorsk it worth to visit promenade (54056’47.30’’N 20009’15.85’’E) and look at the Baltic Sea from the top of Elevator Tower (54056’45.00’’N 20009’00.00’’E). Try to find old Water Supply Tower (54056’35.35’’N 20009’15.50’’E) – the symbol of Svetlogorsk. If you want to buy some food especially when you leave Svetlogorsk going toward the Curonian Spit you may find good grocery shop at the town limits (54055’53.00’’N 20009’57.00’’E). On the road from Svetlogorsk to Zelenogradsk you may ride through Romanovo village where there are ruins of a very old Teutonic Order church (54053’46.00’’N 20016’31.00’’E) and beautiful landscapes with green hills and a lake. 27. There are no special roads for bikes in the Kaliningrad region so you must use the road for cycling. Please keep eyes on vehicles going in your direction. Bright visible clothes and flash lights on your bicycle may be a good idea. 28. I’ve got strange rumors that Kaliningrad is a hell for cyclists and neither by road nor by sidewalk it’s allowed to cycle. It’s bullshit! In Russia we have rules similar to EU countries. Bicycle is a transportation vehicle and it is allowed to use a standard road. It is not allowed to use highways (autobahns). Cycling by roads is allowed for persons who at least 14 years old. If you use a standard road you need to keep as right as possible. 6 You not allowed to turn left if road have more than 1 pass in each direction. In that case you need to walk through a road on opposite side of it. It is allowed to use side of the road if it is not disturbing pedestrians. It is not allowed to cycle by sidewalk. But in reality it is not a big problem and I’m pretty sure police should be lenient to you (especially in zones with a high traffic). So in every case you may take decision what is more safe – to take a road or a sidewalk. 29. On R1 website I placed maps with route which goes from Kaliningrad to Zelenogradsk through Shatrovo lakes and Svetlogorsk. This route has really low traffic. Personally I think that it worth to visit Yantarny as it is really great place on Baltic coast. But you can use other route - а new highway which is partly built. It starts from Kaliningrad city and goes directly to Zelenogradsk (Kranz). In case if transit cyclists are limited in time and want to go from Kaliningrad to Curonian spit directly the fastest and more safe way is to use this highway. It's have 2,5 meters wide hard shoulder pass from both sides of the road which are not allowed to be use by cars but it can be freely use by cyclists. It sound strange but cycling to Zelenogradsk by this highway is safer than cycling by two other old roads. Please note that normally it is not allowed to cycle by a highways in Russia, but as I told before the only part of our coastal highway was opened (Kaliningrad-Zelenogradsk) and until they build whole road (Zelenogradsk-Svetlogorsk-Baltijsk-Kaliningrad) for 2-3 years cyclists may freely use it as it doesn't have official status of a highway yet. 30. Not too many Russians speak foreign languages. Please take it into account. Try to learn a few common Russian words. If you have any questions related to the tourism in the Kaliningrad region try to visiting official website website of the Regional Tourism Info Center: http://www.visit-kaliningrad.ru/ This website is available in Russian and English. Another good multilingual resource for you is a If you need some information about Kaliningrad you may easily find it on this website which is available also in English and German: http://www.baltma.ru 31. The Tourism Information Center in Svetlogorsk (54056’26.12’’N 20008’58.30’’E) also can be helpful to you (RU, DE, ENG): http://www.svetlogorsk-tourism.ru/ru/ : +7 (40153) 22098 Fax: +7 (40153) 21763 Address: Svetlogorsk, K.Marx str., 7a 32. The Tourism Information Center in Yantarny: Sovetskaya str., 70 Phone: +79114627959 [email protected] And last but not least: you may contact your colleagues – cyclists from the Kaliningrad region – ‘Koenig Bicycle Team’. I’m pretty sure that those active people can recommend you good routes show you good camp sites and give you good advices: 7 http://www.koenigbicycle.ru/en/main.php?cp=none I recommend you to visit this website as it contain some articles in English, GPS tracks of cycling routes supported by lots of pictures. So you may get impression what you can expect deep inside of Kaliningrad region. (!) please note that some of GoogleEarth satellite photos are very old (3-4 years) and do not reflect the current situation as the Kaliningrad region is developing rapidly. Wish you a good road, many impressions, positive thinking and strong health my dear friends! Let the wind always blow in direction you are going and never against! Updated: 01/07/2012, Kaliningrad 8 Annex 1. Visa at border. BALTMA Dear Partner, Please, be informed about the formalities for visa on arrival for 72 hours. Maximum staying is 4 days 3 nights. Our company provides this type of visa only with our hotel booking. The citizens of the following countries can get these visas: All Shengen countries Switzerland United Kingdom Japan Visa cost is 75 eur per pax. You need to provide the following to get this type of visa: 1) clear scanned passport copy 2) working address, name of the company, position, phone number 3) home address, phone number ON ARRIVAL THE COLOURED PICTURE SIZE 3*4 IS REQUIRED. Additional details: 1) The Ministry of Foreign affairs provides such visas at Kaliningrad airport of you arrive by plane or if you use another kind of transport at 2 borders: Bagrationovsk and Mamonovo. You should arrive on weekdays during working time 09.00.-22.00. (latest) 2) The transport for the officier of the Ministry to/from the airport/border should be paid by the client. The cost is 35 eur. BALTMA pr-t Mira, 94 Kaliningrad, Russia, 236000 (0112) 931-931 (0112) 951-893 (0112) 211-840 e-mail: [email protected] www.baltma.ru/ 9 Annex 2. Migration card – original view 10 Annex 3. Migration card – filled example. 11 Annex 4. Customs declaration - example (if you travelled by car). 12
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