Summer/Fall 2012
Basic Fishing Gear & Terminology
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Anatomy of a Rod
3
Rod Action/Reels
4
Anatomy of a Baitcasting Reel
5
Casting
6
7-9
Tackle and Bait
10
Fish Anatomy
Knots
11-12
Maritime Terminology
13-15
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Tip: The uppermost part of
the rod, the thinnest and
most flexible, ending at the
tip top.
Windings: Bind the guides
to the rod body; they are
wrapped with string and
then painted with enamel,
affixing them permanently.
Butt: This is the thick part
of your rod closest to the
handle.
Tip Top: The guide at the
very tip of your fishing rod
Guide(s): Perpendicular
rings that run the length of
the rod. Rods will have a
number of guides.
Butt Guide: The guide
closest to the handle end
of your rod.
Ferrule: If you have a rod
that breaks down into two
pieces or more, the ferrule
is the joint where sections
of the rod fit together.
Place your hook on the
Hook Keeper, and then reel
in the slack before storing or
moving your rod.
Handle: Referred to as a
grip as well. This is where
you hold the rod. It can be
made of foam or cork.
Butt Cap: This is at the
bottom of the handle;
sometimes made of
rubber, sometimes of cork.
The Reel Seat is where
your reel is attached to the
rod.
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Rod Action
Action: The action of a rod refers to the flexibility of the rod.
The action of a rod describes how much and where a rod
bends when it’s loaded (bent). There are three main actions:
Fast Action: This type of rod is generally stiff, and most of
the bend happens at the tip part of the rod.
Medium/Moderate Action: This rod bends a little deeper, so
it has flexibility in the tip and in the middle of the rod.
Slow Action: This rod is the most flexible; it bends well into
the butt end of the rod.
Which “Action” is desirable is dependent on location,
conditions and desired fish and size.
Reels
There are 3 types of common reels (shown above)
We will be using Baitcasting reels for CCFRP.
Baitcasting is the arguably the most difficult
reel to master, because incorrect casting can
easily lead to a tangled line in the reel (right).
This is referred to as backlash or a bird’s
nest.
How-to: Untangle a backlash
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Anatomy of a Baitcasting Reel
Baitcasting reels come in a variety of styles, shapes, and mechanical
setups, but the basics remain the same.
Spool Release: Pressing the spool release will allow the spool to turn freely without drag. This
button needs to be pressed before any type of casting, and this mode is disengaged by turning the
reel handle. (Above left) one style of a release lever on the right of the spool, and the second style (Above, right)
has a large button just below the spool.
Spool Tensioner: The spool tensioner is a knob which will almost always be on the same side of
the reel as the handle, star drag, and spool release. The spool tensioner adjusts how fast fishing
line will unspool when the spool is released. This is not to be mistaken with drag. When setting
the spool tensioner, tighten it all the way, engage the spool release, then loosen the tensioner
slowly until the reel starts slowly playing out line. (Above) Note that the spool tensioner is in the same
relative location on both styles of reels.
Drag: In picture above as “Star Drag”. Adjusting the drag changes
how quickly or easily fishing line will unspool when the spool
release is not engaged. Setting the drag high puts most of the
pressure from a fish on your line and tackle, potentially snapping
your line. Setting the drag too low will make it very difficult or
even impossible to bring a fish in. (Above and right) Note that while the
two reels look different, the star drag is in the same place on both .
Line Guide: Fishing line will be fed from the spool, through the
line guide, and then through the guides on the rod. The line guide
ensures the spool is reeled back in evenly.
Handle: Used to reel in line; turning the handle will also take a reel from the released, freewheel
state, to the drag controlled state.
Bait Clicker – Line Alarm: Button often found on the left side of the reel. It will make a
clicking sound when line is pulled from the reel when in the drag controlled state.
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Casting
Casting is where many will have problems with baitcasting reel/rod setups.
Luckily with the CCFRP, we won’t be long casting very much.
Drop Casting: This is the simplest version of casting, or putting a line out.
1. Place thumb firmly on spool
2. Depress “Spool Release” without removing
your thumb from spool.
3. Place the tip of your rod over the side of the
pier, rocks, boat you are on.
4. Release thumb pressure slightly as needed to
let fishing line out to depth.
5. At depth, stop the spool with your thumb;
turn the handle to engage the drag.
Long Casting: For advanced/intermediate baitcasters.
1. Place thumb firmly on spool
2. Depress “Spool Release” without
removing your thumb from spool
3. Bring rod back, whip the rod
forward
4. At the peak of the whipping
motion, release thumb pressure
on the spool to almost none
(beginner) or none at all
(advanced)
5. Before your line hits the water,
stop the spool with your thumb.
6. Turn the handle until you feel a
click; the drag is engaged, and
your thumb can be released
completely.
How-to: Cast a Baitcasting reel
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Basic Tackle Anatomy
Terminal Tackle: Hook, weight, swivels, floats,
lures and other tackle that can be attached to the
end of your line.
Line: This is the length of thread that goes on your
reel in a spool. There are only a few basic types of
line available; these include braided nylon or
Dacron, and the standard monofilament. Line
comes in several strengths. The strength of a line is
listed on the spool as pound test.
Pound Test: (Above, circled) The strength of a line, measured in how much
weight a line can support before it breaks. The spool signifies this with the pound
mark “#”. For example, 4# test.
Sinkers: (Right) These are
weights that you attach to your
line. Traditionally made of lead;
tin, steel, bismuth and tungstennickel alloy versions are now
available at added cost for the
environmentally minded.
Hooks:(left) A curved object with a barbed pointed
end, and an eye at the other. For the purpose of the
CCFRP, all hook barbs will be bent flush (below)
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Ball-bearing barrel swivel: (right) This is used between
your line and your leader. It keeps your line from twisting
because it allows the leader to turn unencumbered. The
leader is a shorter piece of line on which the hook is tied.
Tree-way swivel: (left) These are special swivels that
are used in creating certain types of rigs. They allow
you to add two leaders to one line.
Snap swivel: (right) This is just swivel with a snap attached to
one end. The snap makes it easy to change out your lure, but
the extra hardware can scare off some fish.
Split ring: (left) These are attached some lures, many lures
come with them, but they can also be purchased an added on as
well. The line is tied to the ring, instead of directly on the lure.
Split rings, like snaps can impart movement to some of your
lures. Split rings are stronger than snaps.
Snap: (right) These are attached the same way as a
split ring, between the lure and the line. They add
movement to the lure, and make it much easier to
change out your lures.
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Bait
Live Bait/Frozen Bait: Live bait is irresistible to Rockfish,
Cabezon and Greenling. Simply bait a hook with anchovy or
squid.
Shrimp Flies: Flies are simply hooks enhanced with feathers or
other attractive features. Used for smaller fish, multiple flies can
be attached to a line. Number of flies is dependent on
regulations.
Jigs: Jigs come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and colors. These
heavy baits are designed to reach the bottom quickly and usually
sport treble hooks on the bottom of the jig.
Combos: (below) If you are fishing a jig with little success you can add a shrimp
fly on top of the jig, this is called a "teaser."
At CCFRP, we will have three different types of gear set-ups: (1) two shrimp flies with a single
strip of squid on each j-hook, (2) two shrimp flies without bait, and (3) 4-10 ounce jigs (or
“lingcod bars”) with shrimp fly teasers. Since this is an ongoing project, these three gear set ups
are pre-arranged on each trip so that we can more accurately compare catch data over months
and years. While you are more than welcome to bring your own gear, we respectfully request
that you adhere to the tackle and/or bait set up to which you are assigned. We guarantee that not
only will you still catch fish with our gear, we have even found that throughout the course of the
project, all three set ups catch an equal amount of fish.
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Fish Anatomy
Below are two diagrams showing the basic anatomy of a fish
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Knots
“Don’t know a knot, tie a lot”
This expression is the bane of sailors, dockhands, captains, and most
fishermen. There are specific uses for knots, and for good reason. Always
ask.
Control-Click any image on the following page for a youtube how-to video.
Fishing knots are not meant to be untied,
but that doesn’t mean they don’t have a
specific purpose. Knots themselves have
their own specific strength, and a proper
fishing knot will minimally weaken the
entire line. The most basic fishing knot,
for connecting a hook to fishing line is
the clinch knot. (right)
Sailing knots can be untied even after a
severe load has been placed on them. This makes them ideal for descending
devices, securing objects on deck, and every day life.
Bowline (boe-lin) – Arguably the best knot to know bar none. This knot can be
used for nearly any task, and can handle any load the line is rated for. (below)
Note: In step 2 (above), the loop must be in this orientation; the tail end (left side)of the loop above
the standing end (right side of the loop). Most improperly tied Bowlines suffer from this.
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Two Half Hitches (right)
Commonly used to fasten
fenders, tackle, gear, etc. to
the railing of a vessel. This
knot is easy, and requires far
less precision than a
bowline. However, this knot
is not for towing or similarly
extreme forces.
Note: Adding another turn on the railing before tying the half hitches makes the knot stronger and easier to
physically tie. Shown in video as “Round Turn Two Half Hitches”
Double Overhand – (left) this is a stopping knot, and
incredibly easy to tie. Stopping knots are put at the end of
lines after they’ve been thread through a small opening
like a pulley or the center of a secchi disk. The knot can
be used to either hoist and hold an object, or in the case of
a pulley prevent the line from being pulled out and lost.
Square Knot – (right) this knot is used
to join two pieces of line that are the
same thickness. More advanced knots
are required to join two dissimilar
pieces of line. The square knot is
simple, but if you end the knot wrong,
it could be difficult to get out later.
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Maritime Terminology
Aboard: On or within the boat.
Adrift: Loose, not on moorings or towline.
Aft: Toward the stern (back) of the boat.
Astern: In back of the boat, opposite of ahead.
Batten Down: Secure hatches and loose objects both within the hull and on deck.
Beam: The greatest width of the boat.
Below: Beneath the deck.
Bow: The forward part of a boat.
Bulkhead: A vertical partition separating compartments.
Bridge: The location from which a vessel is steered and its speed controlled.
Control Station or Helm is really a more appropriate term for small craft
Cabin: A compartment for passengers or crew.
Cleat: A fitting to which lines are made fast. The classic cleat to which lines are
belayed is approximately anvil-shaped.
Coil: To lay a line down in circular turns.
Course: The direction in which a boat is steered.
Current: The force and direction of water typically on a horizontal plane.
Dead Ahead: Directly ahead.
Dead Astern: Directly aft.
Deck: A permanent covering over a compartment, hull or any part thereof.
Fathom: Six feet.
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Fore-and-Aft: In a line parallel to the keel.
F/V: Fishing vessel
Galley: The kitchen area of a boat
Gangway: The area of a ship's side where people board and disembark.
Hatch: An opening in a boat's deck fitted with a watertight cover.
Head: A marine toilet.
Heading: A direction, given by compass degrees, of a ships current course.
Headway: The forward motion of a boat. Opposite of sternway.
Helm: The wheel or tiller controlling the rudder.
Hold: A compartment below deck in a large vessel, used solely for carrying cargo.
Hull: The main body of a vessel.
Latitude: The distance north or south of the equator measured and expressed in
degrees.
Line: Rope and cordage used aboard a vessel. “There are no ropes on boats.”
Log: A record of courses or operation. Also, a device to measure speed.
Longitude: The distance in degrees east or west of the meridian at Greenwich,
England.
Nautical Mile: One minute of latitude; 1 Nm = 1.151 Miles. The expression for
speed is a Knot. I am 20 Nautical Miles out at a speed of 15 Knots.
Navigation: The art and science of conducting a boat safely from one point to
another.
Overboard: Over the side or out of the boat.
Pier: A loading platform extending at an angle from the shore.
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Pile: A wood, metal or concrete pole driven into the bottom. Craft may be made
fast to a pile; it may be used to support a pier (see ‘Piling’) or a float.
Piling: Support, protection for wharves, piers etc.; constructed of piles (see ‘Pile’)
Port: The left side of a boat looking forward. Or a harbor.
Rudder: A vertical plate or board for steering a boat.
Slack: Not fastened; loose. Also, to loosen.
Starboard: The right side of a boat when looking forward.
Stern: The aft part of the boat.
Stow: To put an item in its proper place.
Tide: The periodic rise and fall of water level in the oceans.
Underway: Vessel in motion, i.e., when not moored, at anchor, or aground.
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