INTERVIEW
MARTINE SITBON ON THE NEW COLLECTION
OF PULLMAN HOTELIER UNIFORMS
Tell us about five key events in your career
The first was in summer 1986, when I began my own collection, which was an unbelievable experience.
Then, in 1992, I launched a look that proved to be highly influential: an androgynous silhouette with a narrowshouldered short jacket worn over low-waisted flared trousers. This “dandy rock” style perfectly represented what I
stand for.
The highlight of 1997 was my “dévoré” velvet dresses, with a continuing rock influence in the long-line narrowshouldered jackets and contrasting romantic motifs.
At the same time, the opening of my store on Rue de Grenelle in Paris allowed me to showcase my work to the
general public.
Lastly, more recently in early 2007, was the creation of the Rue du Mail label with Jimmy Chan, my partner in this
venture.
Why did you choose fashion?
Actually, I was initially more interested in music. My sister, who knew my passion for drawing, encouraged me to
enrol at the Studio Berçot and as soon as I got there it was love at first sight. I instantly loved this world and
understood that it was the one for me - it was like a revelation. However, I was young and still far from imagining
that I would one day become a designer!
How would you define yourself?
If I had to define myself in five words, they would be: “vision”, “imagination”, “precision”, “passion” and “will”.
How would you define your work?
In addition to these five values, I try to bring to fashion a touch of chic and luxury that respects the spirit of the
person wearing my clothes. I want to break down this system of over-design and prowess in order to maintain a
“cooler” aura. My clothes are always complicated during the design stage and then I combine them with a very
simple style so that people can appropriate them in a way that suits them.
How would you define your style?
My style is androgynous, rock, poetic, often contradictory. I like androgynous silhouettes, and combine this with the
female universe and an almost childlike side, which I break down with a more rock, masculine angle. I have always
been inspired by the fun and dreamlike aspect of the 1970s. I like to give a very masculine side to the female
universe, as represented by my collection of trench coats and my work on military styles.
What characterises your designs? Is there a distinctive element of your collections?
There are many. I like contrasting materials. Soft fabrics like crêpe de chine and functional, harder fabrics like
heavy cottons or military materials. I also like ornamentation, which can be embroidery or a graphic aspect. I often
tell stories through these contrasting materials and my ornamental work.
Who are your idols/mentors? Why?
When I first started out, my biggest inspiration came from music: David Bowie, Velvet Underground, Lou Reed,
Edie Sedgwick. These were the people I worshiped as a teenager and made me want to go to London, in order to
live better and understand this world.
What is your favourite item/piece of clothing to work on? Why?
Right now, I like working on dresses as they give a complete silhouette. In the 1990s, I liked working on jackets.
What are your favourite colours and materials? Why?
I often wear black, but I enjoy working with colour in my collections: red, bright yellow… I create ranges for each
collection. In general, I use dark colours - off-blacks, aubergine, bottle green – but I also let my imagination run with
primary colours and white.
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Future projects?
I am writing a book that looks back at my work, which will be published in September 2016. I am also working on a
project that will be unveiled in October the same year, but can’t say anything about it for the time being!
Why did you choose to work for Pullman?
The artistic director of AccorHotels Group contacted me. He gave me a Pullman brochure which I found visually
very interesting and elegant. It had a great deal of taste and I liked that. It presented images and the brand’s
philosophy. I found the concept very interesting and wanted to be part of the project.
What inspired you in the brand universe?
I could feel their desire for change, to alter the rather cold side that business hotels can have and find a way out of
this impersonal atmosphere. I like the emphasis Pullman puts on conviviality, this desire to stand out by giving
more of a sense of design, dream, and art.
Which Pullman codes have you chosen to work/play with? Why?
I’ve worked in particular on the round collar of the dresses, which resonate with this aspect of conviviality.
What difference(s) do you see between high-end and luxury in the clothing industry?
For me, marketing is the main difference between luxury and high-end. High-end clothing is made using high
quality know-how, and targets connoisseurs.
Why this choice of material(s) and colour(s)?
For Pullman, I have drawn on the universe of Parisian chic with a slight couture aspect and the choice of materials.
There are many constraints to doing something like this, particularly in the choice of fabrics, which must not
crease, get dirty etc. I used a woven material and married very elegant dark colours with midnight blue and a
specific graphic on the collar. I also came up with cuts that are suitable for different body types.
In your opinion, what do travellers expect when it comes to hotel staff’s clothing in the high-end industry?
I think that travellers expect two things: for Pullman staff to be elegant, with contemporary silhouettes and
something that makes them stand out. They want to hotel staff to be visually recognisable.
And what are the expectations of the hotel staff who wear the clothes?
Numerous meetings with staff have enabled me to adapt my style to France, Australia and Japan in terms of the
silhouette and the universe embodied. Staff want clothes that make them feel comfortable and valued. This is what
interested me, working with these constraints while still maintaining the original spirit and my ideas.
How would you define the “urban line” collection?
The collection reflects a contemporary, comfortable, couture spirit, with a light and casual touch. I have always
been very inspired by films, in particular “Diary of a Chambermaid” and by David Lynch film. I took on this project
as if I was working on film costumes. I wanted to add something a bit fun.
What did you enjoy the most in this project?
The research and adapting to the constraints, which I focused on working on the collar. Deciding that this would be
the emblematic part was the most enjoyable part in terms of research.
What is your vision of travel?
The ideal for me is traveling to a country with a rich culture in order to make discoveries. One country that I love, for
example, is Japan and the extremes of this secular country of eye-watering modernity. I am a very visual person
and think that a trip has been a success if I leave with strong images. I need to feed my soul somehow! My vision
of travel is that of an enriching experience.
Do you travel a lot?
I travelled a huge amount during my early years as a designer. I learnt my trade by practicing it in different
countries: India, then New York…
What do you look for in hotels?
I always choose a hotel for its aesthetics, whether it is a luxury hotel or a boutique hotel. I like it to make me feel at
home. The objects on display, the furniture used, the choice of materials need to speak to me. I don’t like things
that are impersonal. There needs to be soul in the aesthetics and a level of comfort. Service is also very important
and I look for personal, human contact.
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What do you think will be the hotel of the future? And the clothes that go with it?
For me, the hotels of the future will be more and more personalised, with similar decor to a home, where you can
feel at ease. In India, for example, many Maharajas’ homes have been transformed into hotels, with lots of small
sitting rooms and gardens that make you feel at home. It’s nice to have a cosy room. Whether the hotel is large or
small, it must have a soul. Hotels also need to work on service and create different spaces where you can find a bit
of intimacy.
Could you live in a hotel?
I could live in a hotel if I did the decor myself. I need my things, my books, my records: the things that keep me
going.
What destinations inspire you?
I love Asia and have travelled a lot to Bali. Japan has also been a great source of inspiration and I am a great fan
of Japanese fashion. India has greatly inspired my taste for colour that I use in my collections. But in general, I’m
quite urban.
Are your designs linked to the cultures or places you visit?
My designs can be linked to my travels but this is not necessarily instantaneous. As time goes by, I store up
images that I sometimes use years later.
A hotel and a destination that stand out for you? Why?
I was particularly struck by the homes of Maharajas transformed into hotels in India, with their 1930s art deco
aspect. The “minkas”, these ancient traditional Japanese homes transformed into a place for living and tourism. I
like places that have a soul and are authentic.
Do you come up with clothes that offer travellers both comfort and style?
My work is not based on traveller comfort but in each of my collections I have clothes that take this into account.
Design and fashion: similar visions for the hotel industry?
In the overall concept, we take the same factors into account but the attention to detail is very different, as the
characteristics are something else entirely.
About
Pullman is the upscale international hotel brand of AccorHotels, the world’s leading hotel operator, present in 94 countries with 3,800 hotels and
180,000 employees. Located in the main regional and international cities and in prime tourist destinations, Pullman Hotels & Resorts is
principally designed to cater for the requirements of cosmopolitan, seasoned travelers, whether they are travelling alone, with their clans or with
colleagues. The brand’s establishments offer a new approach to upscale hospitality. The Pullman network has more than 93 hotels & resorts in
Europe, Africa, the Middle East, Asia-Pacific and Latin America where ideas, histories and cultures meet. Our objective is to have 150 hotels
around the world by 2015-2020. Pullman, like most of AccorHotels’ brands, is proud to offer the Le Club Accorhotels loyalty program.
Further information concerning the Pullman hotels is available on www.pullmanhotels.com
Press Contacts
Marine Todesco
Accor - Media Relations, Luxury & Upscale brands
[email protected]
Line Crieloue
ELAN EDELMAN
[email protected]
+33 1.86.21.51.01
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