A short guide to growing Cane Fruit
Introduction
Although raspberries, with their stiff upright growing shoots (canes), are the most commonly known
type of cane fruit, the term also includes blackberries, loganberries, and tayberries, as well as other
hybrid berries. They are distinguished from the bush fruit in that their shoots, either upright or
trailing, arise from a basal 'stool' and and die off after fruiting.
Raspberries
Raspberries, like most types of fruit, prefer a rich moisture retentive, but free-draining soil, in a
sunny or semi-shaded site sheltered from strong winds and late frosts. They have a fibrous rooting
system which is close to the soil surface, and they cannot tolerate heavy wet soil. They are the
second most popular soft fruit after strawberries and are widely grown, mainly for jams and
flavourings. They are less popular than strawberries as retail fresh fruit owing to a short shelf-life
which makes distribution difficult.
There are two main classes of raspberry, summer fruiting and autumn fruiting.
The summer fruiting varieties can be further grouped into early, mid season, and late fruiting,
and the whole season spans from the second half of June until mid August. The summer fruiting
varieties bear their fruit on shoots (canes) that grew during the previous summer. The
autumn fruiting varieties bear their fruit on canes that have grown in the current year, and can
commence fruiting as early as late July, though their main fruiting period, as their name suggests,
occurs in the autumn, extending until the first frosts. As they grow and fruit within the same year
they are termed 'primocanes'
All the canes arise as shoots growing from a basal stool just below ground level. The root system
can also give rise to suckering shoots some distance away from the parent stool and it is by this
means that the raspberry vegetatively reproduces, though this has also led to the reputation,
unfairly, for being invasive. After fruiting the crop-bearing canes die, and it is this need for constant
annual renewal of shoots that causes the plant to become hungry for nutrients, particularly
nitrogen. It also partially explains the tendency to throw up suckers as the plant seeks out fresh
sources of nutrients some distance away from the parent plant, particularly if the parent is
undernourished by lack of, or irregular application of fertiliser. Deep soil disturbance can also
damage the roots and encourage suckering.
In the UK much of the breeding of varieties has been carried out at Malling Horticultural Research
Station and the Scottish Crop Research Institute (SCRI). The summer fruiting varieties raised at
Malling almost always are prefixed with 'Malling' in the variety name, whereas those raised by the
SCRI are prefixed with 'Glen' in their variety name.
Cultivation of summer-fruiting raspberries is almost always carried out by planting one-year old
stools 18” apart, in rows at a minimum of 6ft apart, during the dormant season, usually in early
November. Planting can be extended through until the following March if weather and soil
conditions permit. The soil should have been previously prepared by removal of all weeds,
especially persistent perennial weeds, and deeply dug with the incorporation of well-rotted manure
or garden compost. If the soil is on the heavy side, a generous quantity of grit should be worked in
and if drainage is a problem the planting position may be earthed-up to form a ridge or raised bed.
The pH should be adjusted upwards, as necessary, by the addition of lime, to give pH6.5.
A support structure for the slender brittle canes should then be erected, consisting of a post at
each end of the row, with straining wires between, one at 2½ -3ft above ground level and one at
5½ft above ground level. The posts need to be 8ft long with 2ft driven below ground. To keep them
vertical under the tension of the straining wires, a 'godfather' or supporting strut should be
positioned inwards of the posts. The canes are tied to the straining wires, as they grow, by looping
twine at 15-18” intervals. The support is mainly required for the tall brittle canes against strong
winter winds, and any canes that extend much above the topmost wire can be looped back down
and tied to the wire. The tips of these shoots may be trimmed down, if desired, to 6” above the top
wire in February-March as they will bear little fruit.
Alternatively a cross-piece should be fixed to each post 4ft above ground level and two parallel
wires 12” apart stretched between. The canes are trained to grow inside the wires.
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A short guide to growing Cane Fruit
There are other methods of supporting the canes used commercially, though rarely used by the
amateur grower..
The stools are positioned in a shallow trench about 3-4'' deep and 7-9'' wide, so that their roots can
spread out horizontally. The trench is then back-filled and the canes firmed in. Immediatley after
planting, the canes, which are usually about 2ft. long, as supplied, are cut back to above a good
bud about 6-9'' above ground level. If it isn't cut down, the cane, which was produced during the
year, would shoot and try and bear fruit the following spring and summer, weakening the young
stool and hindering establishment. Following a top-dressing of fertiliser in spring, the stools should
be mulched with well-rotted manure or garden compost.
Weeds should be kept down by shallow hoeing or hand weeding, deep disturbance of the soil may
damage the surface roots and encourage suckering. In England it is usual to allow the canes from
each stool to merge within the row to form a matted hedgerow, whereas in Scotland the preferred
method is to keep each stool separate and rogue out any young suckers between stools. Although
this might slightly reduce the quantity of crop, it encourages deeper rooting and allows better
airflow, and the quality of the fruit is higher when using the Scottish method.
Shoots which arise from suckering roots (spawn) should be pulled or hoed out regularly before it
becomes taller than 6'', to encourage canes to arise from the base of the stool. This is particularly
important in the early years, otherwise suckering will increase and the plant will run wild. After a
while of regular removal of spawn, the plant will 'get the message' and canes will mainly grow
where you want them to thereafter.
Pruning of Summer Fruiting Raspberries
Pruning consists of cutting out at, or as close as possible to, ground level, all the canes that have
borne fruit. This can be done immediately after fruiting but usually carried out after leaf fall. The
pruned canes should be removed and burned or got rid off-site. Of the remaining canes, that have
grown that season, select about 8 per stool of the strongest growing canes and thin out the weaker
canes by cutting down to ground level. Pull out any suckers. Tie the selected canes to the top wire
about a hand's width apart, either tying individually, or trapping between the wire and loops of rotproof string (polypropylene) and securing firmly at 18'' intervals. The lower part of the canes may
be just trapped between the bottom wire and the string. Any thin straggly bits of the canes that
stand well proud of the top wire can be bent over and tucked in along the top wire. Then in
February snip them off about 6” above the wire. This will encourage the lower side buds to break
and send out the fruiting lateral shoots.
Varieties
Summer Fruiting Raspberries
Early
th
Mid-Season
20 June-midJuly
Early-Late July
Glen Clova
Glen Moy
Glen Lyon
Malling Jewel
Malling Delight
Glen Prosen
Malling Orion
Tulameen
Glen Ample
Glen Rosa
Late
th
10 July-10thAug
Malling Admiral
Malling Leo
Gaia
Glen Magna
Note: Malling Jewel is a classic older variety and a favourite for suppliers to offer. However it is a
bit of a 'primadonna', and unless presented with perfect a growing position and conditions, it tends
to 'sulk' and fails to give of its best.
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A short guide to growing Cane Fruit
Autumn Fruiting Raspberries (Primocanes)
Autumn fruiting types grow and fruit in the same year, so do not need hefty supporting structures
for overwintering canes as they are 'over' by then. All that is needed is a couple of parallel wires 3ft
high and 3ft apart. This is just to give them some support at the sides of the row from any strong
summer/autumn breezes or gusts of wind. They are not usually tied-in to the wires.
All other growing conditions are the same as for summer fruiting varieties, except for pruning which
consists of cutting down and disposing of all the canes (even those that arose later on and haven't
fruited), in December/January. They are vigorous growers with an appetite to match, so a good top
dressing of fertiliser each year is necessary to maintain vigour, but otherwise they are 'dead easy'!
This makes autumn fruiting raspberries the choice for those with limited space and lack of time.
Note: If you fail to cut down the late growing 'non-fruited' shoots at pruning time, they will
overwinter and continue to grow in the spring, giving a small crop earlier in the summer. Because
energy was diverted into this fruiting, less is available to send out the new spring canes, so you still
end up with an autumn crop, but of reduced yield. You get ripe raspberries, but fewer and spread
over a longer period. Remember though, that the later fruiting crop can easily be spoiled by cooler,
wetter conditions from September onwards.
Varieties
Autumn Fruiting Raspberries
Autumn Bliss
(The number one most popular variety)
Zeva
Heritage
September
Joan Squire
Polka
Fallgold (syn. Allgold)
Golden Everest
(these golden-coloured raspberries introduce a novel colour but in my experience are a big
disappointment in flavour, being very sweet with only a weak raspberry taste. To get round this, mix
them with Autumn Bliss or other red variety. This gives an attractive combination of colours to the
eye, while the red variety masks the disappointing flavour of the golden)
Pests & Diseases
Principal pests are Raspberry Beetle which only appears when the fruit is ripe or ripening, the
larva tunnels into the fruit. Spray with suitable short persistence insecticide while the fruit is green
or just turning a pink blush stage.
Aphids, usually at shoot tips during spring. Spray before or after flowering with suitable insecticide.
Don't spray when in flower as there may be a risk of blossom damage and risk to pollinating
insects. Aphids may act as a vector for virus diseases
Two-spotted mites (red spider mite) are rarely a problem but may become present on hot dry
summers or autumn raspberries grown in tunnels. Causes yellow speckling of undersides of
leaves. If it becomes a serious problem, prune early and burn old canes, then spray newly grown
canes with Bifenthrin base insecticide (Bug Clear).
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A short guide to growing Cane Fruit
Diseases are mainly of fungal origin and include
Greymould (Botrytis cinerea) attacks ripening fruit covering them with 'greymould', leaves not
normally affected. Can also attack the canes producing black resting bodies which overwinter.
Treat young shoots (spawn) with appropriate fungicide to afford protection and spray open flowers
3-4 times to protect fruit from infection.
Spur Blight shows up as grey areas around leaf/bud joints with pin-prick sized black dots. Grey
areas can spread and merge between leaf joints in severe cases. Kills dormant fruiting spur buds.
Spray young spawn with fungicide to protect it.
Cane Spot – Large black spots on canes forming open lesions – Spray new cane growth.
Root Rot – (Phytophthora Root Rot) – mainly arises when the soil is too wet and heavy – kills
plant. Re-stock elsewhere on better drained soil.
Arabis Mosaic Virus, causes stunted growth with leaves having blotchy yellowish patches, No
cure, dig up and burn – replant elsewhere in soil free from eelworm infestation which acts as a
vector for this virus.
Other Problems – may include:
Grey areas on fruit caused by wind rub, misshapen fruit caused by poor pollination or damage to
flowers by thrips, or frost damage.
Poor growth and vigour giving weak spindly canes, if not caused by virus, maybe caused by the
crop getting old (over 10 years), or poor, thin, fast-draining soils allowing leaching of nutrients. Poor
crop nutrition by underfeeding with fertiliser (raspberries are a hungry crop!), or inability of nutrients
to dissolve in the soil water because of too acid soil (below pH6.0)
Note: The above list may seem pretty daunting, but don't be put-off, you probably won't ever see
many of these problems. The main thing is to choose clean soil that hasn't grown cane fruit before
and pay attention to good husbandry and crop hygiene by raking up leaf litter and old canes and
burning. Allow a good airflow and plenty of sunlight to reach the crop as this will minimise most
fungal problems. If you are growing on an allotment, keep an eye on your neighbours' crops too,
they may be less fastidious than you and any problems they are experiencing may jump to your
crop!
When your cane plants are old and past their best (>10years) just dig them up and burn them, and
don't import trouble by accepting dubious replacement stock from a well-meaning neighbour;
instead, re-stock with disease free certified stock on new ground. Don't mess about by hanging on
to them, you'll have had your money's worth, so get rid!
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A short guide to growing Cane Fruit
Blackberries
Cultivating blackberries, derivatives of the native bramble, are as easy as summer raspberries.
They require the same siting in a sunny position and rich well-drained moisture retentive soil to
flourish, though they will grow quite successfully in almost any soil except heavily waterlogged
ground. The soil should have a preferred pH of 6.5, though slightly lower pH will be tolerated. Like
summer-fruiting raspberries they flower and fruit on the previous year's growth, and the canes die
after fruiting, being replaced by the current year's growth which provides fruit the following year.
Again like raspberries, they are grown as stooled plants, and many varieties have viciously prickly
canes, though a number of 'thornless' varieties have been introduced in past years.
Cultivation - Blackberries are vigorous growers and their long trailing shoots require plenty of
space for adequate training and support. A supporting structure comprising two 8ft posts 10 -12ft
apart with stout galvanised wires stretched horizontally between them at 12'' spacing. Alternatively
they may be trained along a south- or west-facing wall or fence with the wires secured by eyes.
The young stool should be planted mid-way between the posts in the dormant season and trimmed
back to encourage new shoots to emerge from below ground in the spring. A good top-dressing of
general fertiliser is applied followed by a mulch of well-rotted manure or garden compost.
As they grow, all the new shoots are trained and tied in to the wires to one side of the mid-point,
the other side consisting of bare wires. These shoots will bear fruit in the following year, on short
lateral shoots growing out from the main cane.
In the spring of the following year new shoots will appear, which are then trained onto the wires on
the opposite side of the mid point. Keeping the young growth away from the old growth in this
manner not only makes for easier picking and pruning, but minimises spread of disease. A topdressing of fertiliser is given each February followed by re-mulching.
Pruning – consists of cutting down the fruited canes, back to ground level, after harvest or in the
early winter while the plant is dormant. The dead canes should be removed off-site or burned. The
space vacated by the pruned canes is then used to train the following year's shoots.
Propagation – Is by tip layering. In July simply bury the growing tip of a shoot 6” deep in a hole
made with a trowel and cover it firmly with soil. In October sever the connection with the old cane
by cutting above a bud, but leave the newly formed plant for a further month before moving to its
new growing position. It will then start to bear fruit from its second year onwards.
Harvesting – The main fruiting period is from mid/end July until end August, depending upon
variety, though some varieties continue to fruit even later, until the first frosts. There are some
myths (folklore) about not picking blackberries after Michaelmas, but if there's good healthy ripe
fruit available after that date, it would be a shame to waste it!
Unlike raspberries, which pull away cleanly from the 'plug' when ripe, in blackberries (and
loganberries and tayberries) the 'plug' usually stays in the fruit, breaking cleanly at the calyx
instead. The plug is actually the swollen base of the original flower and quite edible, though it
should be a creamy white colour. If it has turned brown, it probably indicates a diseased (mouldy)
fruit which should be discarded.
Pests & Diseases – Blackberries (and loganberries etc) can suffer from some of the same
problems that may arise with raspberries. These include Root Rot, (wet soil), Rasberry Beetle,
Cane spot and Spur blight (particularly on loganberries). Treat as for raspberries.
Varieties – Manyof the older varieties arose as selected strains of wild bramble, but many of the
newer strains are as a result of careful breeding programmes.
Bedford Giant – reputedly derived from a large fruited strain found in a hedgerow, it bears an early
crop of large juicy fruit during late July and August. Very prickly, but good 'doer' under all
conditions.
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A short guide to growing Cane Fruit
Himalayan Giant – another older variety, though bearing a very heavy crop of fruit during
September to October. Very prickly and very vigorous, needs plenty of growing room, so not really
suitable for general garden use, unless you want to deter small boys and other intruders!
Oregon Thornless – is derived from a European variety (Rubus lacinatus) with finely divided
deeply cut leaves very different from the normal blackberry. Late fruiting (September into October)
it is completely thornless, as the name suggests, though where the 'Oregon' bit comes from I don't
know!
Loch Ness – Bred by our old friends north of the border, the SCRI, this is an outstanding thornless
variety giving heavy crops on stiiffer, more upright, easier to manage canes. The upright habit
means it can be grown in a smaller area, even up a single upright post, so is ideal for garden use.
It can even be grown as a hedgerow like raspberries. In a good year it will crop from mid August
through to early October.
Loch Tay – Again out of the same SCRI stable with an impeccable pedigree as Loch Ness. All the
positive attributes of 'Nessie', but even earlier cropping, commencing in late July through to the end
of August. Also thornless.
Ashton Cross – bred by Long Ashton Research Station, has juicy fruit with real 'bramble' flavour.
Heavy yields (upto 50% more than Bedford Giant) – late August through September ripening
Merton Thornless – Bred by the John Innes Institute, this is a compact grower and completely
thornless variety giving a generous crop of large berries late in the season (August/ September).
Useful for growing in small areas owing to its compactness.
Loganberries and Tayberries - both give large elongated fruit, longer than blackberries, but
should be grown exactly the same way as blackberries. Loganberries have a deep claret red colour
and tayberries are deeper coloured (going on deep crimson purple). Loganberries do better in a
warmer situation than Tayberries. Both have excellent flavour and heavy yields. They are
'heavenly' when cooked as a tart or a crumble! Mmmm!
Medana Tayberry – another SCRI triumph, ideal trouble free variety, late July-August cropping.It
does have some prickles, but otherwise it is such an easy crop to grow it's impossible to go wrong!
Loganberry Clone L.Y. 654 – large deep-red conical fruits cropping in July. Prefers a warmer
sheltered situation for best performance, but no prickles, even on the leaves! (they might even get
round to giving it a 'proper' name one day)
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