JAPAN
Population
126.5 Million
Area (sq mi)
145,882
Area (sq km)
377,835
PORT BACKGROUND NOTES FOR YOKOHAMA AND KOBE, JAPAN
SOME INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT JAPAN:
• It is impolite to walk and eat at the same time
• Hello Kitty has been a national icon since the Sanrio Company
developed the brand in 1974
• Japan’s literacy rate is almost 100 percent
• The kimigayo has been the national anthem since the end of
World War II, and much controversy surrounds its association with
militarism and the virtual worship of the emperor as a deity, which some see as
incompatible with a democratic society. Similar objections have been raised to Japan's
current national flag, a representation of the rising sun, and demonstrations are
sometimes held against both.
PORT IN YOKOHAMA: The port of Yokohama is located on the northwestern edge of Tokyo
Bay. It was the first port opened to international trade after Commodore Perry landed in Uraga
in 1859 and demanded that Japan end its period of isolation. There is a special free shuttle bus
service between the passenger terminal and Yokohama Station, which is in the downtown area
and is the hub for rail trips to Tokyo and other destinations. Tokyo and Kamakura are both
only an hour away by train, while Mt. Fuji and Hakone are two hours away.
PORT IN KOBE: The ship docks on Port Island, a man–made island which is connected to Kobe
by an elevated railway, or Portliner, which runs directly to the Sannomiya area of central Kobe.
The Port Terminal offers currency exchange (on arrival only) as well as mail service, shops,
telephones and tourist services. Always carry your shipboard ID, as it will be required for
returning to the port area.
REGION: Japan consists of four main islands (Honshu, Hokkaido, Shikoku and Kyushu) and
many smaller islands, notably Okinawa. Honshu is the largest island and the most densely
populated. Yokohama and Kobe are both located in Honshu. Yokohama is the second biggest
city after Tokyo and together can be considered a sprawling megalopolis with the approximate
combined populations of 35 million. Kobe is a modern commercial seaport located in the heart
of traditional Japan. Within an hour’s train ride are Nara (the original capital and Buddhist
center), Kyoto (Japan’s greatest cultural attraction and Imperial capital for 1000 years), Osaka
(a large contemporary seaport) and Himeji (site of Japan’s greatest castle). Hiroshima is two
hours away by train.
SAFETY AND SECURITY: The general crime rate in Japan is well below the U.S. national
average. Violent crime and thievery are both rare, but you should always use caution in urban
centers, especially in bars and clubs at night. Be mindful of pick pocketing in public areas. To
contact police, dial 110 throughout Japan.
For a more detailed analysis of safety and security in Japan, please refer to the U.S.
Consular Information Sheet for Japan which is posted on the ship.
HEALTH CONCERNS: Food and water are both quite safe in Japan, and no special medical
precautions are necessary. Be careful, of course, with the raw fish in sashimi and sushi,
especially the fugu, blowfish.
CLIMATE: Japan has a temperate climate with four distinct seasons. Depending on the region,
Japan’s climate varies. For the most part, however, winter will be cold and dry with sunshine.
GOVERNMENT: There are 47 prefectures (roughly equivalent to the states in the
US) in Japan. Each one is governed by the prefectural governor and legislature.
The seat of national politics is in Tokyo. The Japanese parliament, the Diet,
consists of the House of Representatives (480 members) and the House of
Councilors (242 members). The members of the Diet are elected by the Japanese
people while the prime minister is elected by the Diet. The minimum voting age
is 20 years. The current prime minister, since September 2011 is Yoshihiko
Noda.
In 1989, Emperor Akihito became Japan’s 125th emperor and today
remains a respected symbol of the state but retains no power.
PEOPLE: The population of Japan is approximately 127 million, including about
two million foreign residents. 98.5 percent are ethnically Japanese, while other
ethnicities include Koreans .5 percent, Chinese .4 percent and other .6 percent,
as well as a tiny indigenous population of Ainu on the island of Hokkaido. Note:
Up to 230,000 Brazilians of Japanese origin migrated to Japan in the 1990s to
work in industries.
LANGUAGE: Japanese is the official language in Japan, yet many people speak a
moderate level of English as well.
RELIGION: Shinto and Buddhism are the two most practiced religions in Japan (84 percent),
while Confucianism, Christianity and Islam are also practiced. Shinto, “the way of the gods,” is
the indigenous faith of the Japanese people and is as old as Japan itself. Shinto has neither a
founder nor scriptures to follow, and because Shinto is deeply rooted in Japanese culture and
language, propaganda and preaching are not common.
CURRENCY: The yen (¥) is the Japanese currency unit. There are four types of bills and six
types of coins used. The bills consist of a 1,000, 2,000, 5,000 and 10,000
¥. The coins are 1, 5, 10, 50, 100 and 500¥. Most businesses in Japan will
not accept any form of payment other than yen (many will not even accept
credit cards), thus, it is advisable to exchange travelers checks and dollars
into yen and take out yen from ATM’s before heading into the countryside.
The use of credit/debit cards is not widespread, particularly outside major
cities.
When the ship arrives in Yokohama, you can exchange money in the
passenger terminal or at many of the banks in town. When the ship arrives
in Kobe, you can easily walk into town rather than waiting to exchange
money in the port terminal. Coming out of the port area, follow the
walkway into the city. Turn right onto Flower Street at the “clock building.”
Several banks are located along Flower Street. The walk takes about 10 minutes.
ATMs: ATMs are commonly available in large urban centers throughout Japan; however,
many do not accept foreign credit or cash cards and most have restricted hours of service.
Most ATMs operate only during banking hours, although some remain open until 1800 to
2000 on weekdays. Post offices commonly have ATMs that accept foreign cards, and larger
post offices may have extended hours for ATM usage. Many post offices and department
stores have ATMs. There are also some 24-hour CitiBank ATMs in Yokohama, Tokyo and
Kobe.
BUSINESS HOURS: Stores in Japan are usually open Monday through Sunday from 1000 to
1700 or 1800. Banks are usually open from 900 to 1500 on weekdays; be aware, however,
that banks may not begin foreign currency exchange until 1030 or 1100 and may require a
long wait. Post offices in Japan are generally open Monday through Friday from 9:00 to 17:00.
However, certain post offices may be open later.
TIPPING: There is no tipping in Japan.
COMMUNICATIONS: Japan has a very modern and timely postal service so sending letters
and packages from here is a good idea. Foreign credit and debit cards can be used at over
21,000 post offices throughout Japan. Post offices where this service is available display the
‘International ATM Service’ symbol and stickers indicating which cards are accepted.
Telephones in Japan have a well-developed public telephone network. For domestic calls,
most telephones accept both 10¥ and 100¥ (coins), or magnetic pre-paid telephone cards.
The charge for a local call is about 10¥ per minute. Direct dial international telephone calls
can be made from any public phone displaying the “International & Domestic Card/Coin
Telephone” symbol. These phones are usually metallic grey or green in color. A variety of
prepaid telephone cards are available for making international calls. Cards have their own
‘International Access Number’. International calls can also be placed through an operator by
dialing 0051. ‘Credit Phones’ (usually blue in color) can be used to charge international phone
calls to your credit card. There are many internet service providers in Japan and ADSL is
available throughout the country. There are also Wireless LAN hotspot facilities throughout
the cities.
ELECTRICITY: Electric current is 100 to 110 volts AC, with slight
variations in cycles in different locations.
CLOTHING: Conservative attire is recommended, though the
Japanese attitude toward dress in public is comparable to that of
the United States. Women should not wear revealing clothing.
TRANSPORTATION: Japan has an efficient public transportation
network, especially within metropolitan areas and between larger cities. Japanese public
transportation is characterized by its punctuality, its superb service and the large crowds of
people using it.
Trains: JR (Japan Railways) is by far the best option for long-distance travel and travel within
large cities. The Japan Rail Pass is a cost effective rail pass for foreign visitors to Japan,
providing unlimited travel on the nationwide network of JR. The Japan Rail Pass is
recommended to anybody who is planning to visit more than one region of Japan. The cost of
a 7 day pass is 28,300 ¥ to 37, 800 ¥. There are a variety of rail
passes worth checking out if you are considering traveling in Japan.
Japanese trains are typically classified into the following categories.
Local (kakueki-teisha or futsu-densha) trains stop at every station.
Rapid (kaisoku) trains skip some stations. There is no difference in
the ticket price between local and rapid trains. Express (kyuko)
trains stop at even fewer stations than rapid trains (kaisoku) and an
express fee has to be paid in addition to the base fare. Limited
Express (tokkyu) trains stop only at major stations. Super Express
(shinkansen or Bullet Trains) use separate tracks and platforms.
For bullet trains from Yokohama, you need to go to the Shin-Yokohama Station, a 25 minute
bus ride from the port. From Kobe, you should proceed to the Shin-Kobe Station. Bullet trains
have a dining car with Western and Japanese foods. Tickets for short distance trips are best
purchased at vending machines, while tickets and seat reservations for long distance trips can
be purchased at ticket counters in train stations. Station names are displayed in Japanese and
Roman letters on the platform. The station name is in large letters; the names of the previous
station and the next station are at the bottom in smaller letters.
Japan Rail's English-Language Phone Service provides quick and complete information in
English about train time schedules. Call (03) 3423-0111 from Monday through Friday
(10:00-18:00).
Japan Rail’s English-Language Website also provides quick and complete information in
English about train time schedules and fares. grace.hyperdia.com/cgi-english/hyperWeb.cgi
Taxis are expensive, but in rural areas they can serve as a good option for traveling from the
train station to your destination. The rear doors of Japanese taxis open and close
automatically; there is no need to touch them at all. It is also not necessary to tip the taxi
drivers as service is included in the price.
Buses and Ferries: Buses and ferries do run throughout Japan, and you can find more
specific information by consulting tourist information guides.
ETIQUETTE & BEHAVIOR: Customs and etiquette are very important in every area of Japanese
social and business life, and there are a multitude of norms and traditions. Westerners are not
generally expected to be familiar with the customs and will generally be excused for what the
Japanese might perceive as inappropriate behavior. If you would like to not be perceived as
inappropriate, here are some etiquette guidelines: Most Japanese restaurants will present you
with a wet towel (Oshibori) that will be hot or cold depending on the season. These should be
used to clean your hands before eating. Do not forget to slurp your noodles. This means
that your noodles are good. It is an acceptable and common practice in Japan. For noodle
soup, use your chopsticks and bring the bowl to your mouth to drink the liquid. Spoons
usually are not provided. There are rules associated with the use of chopsticks. Try to avoid:
• spearing the food with your chopsticks
•
using your chopsticks to rummage around in a dish trying to find
what you want; if chopsticks for serving are not provided, it is
polite to use the other end of your chopsticks (the end that has
not been in your mouth) to take food from communal plates
•
passing food to somebody else with your chopsticks
•
waving your chopsticks above a dish while trying to decide what to take next
•
standing your chopsticks vertically in your rice; this is how rice is served to the dead
If out drinking with a group of Japanese, do not fill your glass yourself. Allow the person next
to you to do it for you, and then return the favor. It is polite to lift your glass off the table a
little and to hold it in both hands when being served. Wait until everyone’s glass if full before
saying ‘kampai’ or ‘cheers’.
The whole family typically washes from the same bathwater, and as a
guest (if you are on a homestay) you will probably be given the
privilege of washing first, just do not drain the bath when you are
finished. Remember to wash yourself and shampoo your hair before
entering the tub. Gift giving is a common practice in Japan. If you do a
homestay, please bring some small souvenirs from home with you.
It is considered rude to blow your nose in public places. It is best to
wait until you can find a restroom.
Shoes are considered unclean and should be removed before entering
most private indoor areas such as Japanese-style restaurants and
accommodation, private homes, shrines and temples. If you are unsure whether your shoes
need to be removed, watch to see what the locals are doing. Whenever there is a step up,
particularly onto polished wooden floors or tatami (straw mats) you should take off your
shoes. If you find yourself shoeless in a restaurant or a home and seek to go to the toire
(toilet), you will almost always find bathroom slippers to wear. Remember to leave them in the
toilet and do not wear them back out into the restaurant or into the home.
When you are required to sit on the floor, either tuck your legs underneath you or sit crosslegged. It is inappropriate to stretch your legs out in front of you.
Rather than handshaking, bowing is the norm in Japan, though many Japanese might enjoy
practicing the American tradition with you.
FOOD: Dining can be very expensive, but inexpensive restaurants are
most everywhere, and their plastic models of menu offerings make
ordering a breeze, simply point to what you want. You can find adequate
meals for $5 to $10 (400¥-900¥). Sushi is boiled rice that is cooled and
seasoned with sweet vinegar and then wrapped with thin-cut raw fish
(sashimi). Udon and soba are Japanese noodles. The former is made
from wheat flour, the latter from buckwheat. They can be served cold on
their own or in a hot soup. Tempura is shrimp, lobster, vegetable, etc. that is dipped in flour
batter with egg and deep fried in salad oil. Kobe beef is the very high-grade beef from the
cows carefully tended in the Tajima area of north-central Hyogo Prefecture. It is so tender that
it just about melts in your mouth. Yakitori is small pieces of chicken or chicken liver that are
arranged on a bamboo skewer and grilled over charcoal. Sukiyaki is thin slices of beef that are
cooked in a special iron pan with various vegetables such as leeks, mushrooms, vermicelli and
tofu. Soy sauce, sugar and sake are used for seasoning. The cooked food is dipped into raw
egg before being eaten. Shabushabu is related to sukiyaki in style, where both use thinly
sliced meat and vegetables, and usually served with dipping sauces. However, it is starkly
different in taste; Shabushabu is more savory and less sweet than sukiyaki. It is considered a
winter dish but is eaten year-round. Okonomiyaki is a kind of thick, spicy pancake made
from a batter containing chopped vegetables and the customer’s choice of meat or seafood,
usually chicken, beef, shrimp, squid or egg; it is sort of like pizza. Sake is a wine made by
fermenting rice. Sake may be sweet or dry and can be drunk cold (Hiya) or heated (Kan).
ACCOMMODATIONS: Traditional Japanese inns (ryokans) offer an
experience that should not be missed. You will be given a yukata
(Japanese robe) for lounging and will sleep on a thick mat (futon) that
is placed on a tatami mat on the floor. Some ryokans have private
baths while others have semi-communal facilities. In any case, you
wash BEFORE entering the deep, hot bath for a soak. Before entering a
room, do not forget to remove your shoes and slip into the house
slippers that are provided. You will have to search to get a good price
for a ryokan. Check with the Tourist Information Centers (TICs)
operated by the Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO) for listings. A series of youth
hostel networks offer inexpensive lodging. IYH (International Youth Hostel) has hostels in
Japan, as does the Japan Youth Hostel Association.
PLACES OF INTEREST IN YOKOHAMA
The first thing you are likely to see on your walking tour is Yokohama’s Landmark Tower.
The tallest building in Japan at 972 ft., Landmark Tower is
the centerpiece of the ultra-modern Minato Mirai 21
shopping and leisure complex. The first 49 floors of the
Tower are office and retail space, while the luxurious Yokohama Royal Park Hotel occupies
floors 49-70. A combination of modern engineering and ancient design, Landmark Tower was
built with the same theoretical structure of Japanese pagoda temples, which never seem to
collapse even in the strongest of temblors. The tower also contains the world’s second fastest
elevator, which travels at one floor per second, reaching the 69th floor in around one minute.
While in Yokohama, visit the Shinyokohama Raumen Museum; a museum, which explains
the history of the ramen noodle from its arrival in Japan from China, to the global success of
the instant ramen noodle. On the two basement floors, visitors can view a life-size replica of
streets and houses in the Shitamachi district of Tokyo around the year 1958, when the ramen
noodle was increasing in popularity. Nine ramen restaurants are located here, each featuring
a ramen dish from a different region of Japan.
Another Yokohama travel destination of interest is the bustling Chinatown. Yokohama’s port
area became the residence of many Chinese traders and
merchants when the harbor was opened to international
trade in 1859. Today, you can walk through Chinatown’s
narrow streets, enjoy the sidewalk cuisine and barter for
trinkets at one of the open-air markets. Stop by Chinatown’s
food theme park, Daska. Modeled after Shanghai circa 1920,
Daska features a three-story building packed with nothing
but Chinese restaurants. After the sensory overload in
Chinatown, Yokohama tourism offers a quieter option in the
Yamate Hill area. Close to the harbor, this calm residential
area features an Italian Garden and views of the Bay Bridge
from Harbor View Park. Yokohama tourism also affords
ample opportunity for shopping in the Motomatchi
Shopping Street near Yamate Hill.
PLACES OF INTEREST IN TOKYO
Though the Imperial Palace is accepted as the center of the city, Tokyo does not really have a
“downtown” area. Instead, Tokyo is divided into 23 self-governed wards. Each of these wards
has a distinct shopping, business and entertainment center.
Tokyo’s Ueno Park is home to the Ueno Zoo and the best natural history and fine-art
museums in Japan. For great shopping opportunities, look no further than the Ginza and
Roppongi Hills areas. Ginza is centrally located and easily identified by its overabundance of
neon signs. The best time to see Ginza is on Sundays when the main thoroughfare is blocked
to traffic and area comes alive with music, street vendors and the smell of fried seafood.
Roppongi Hills was created as a city within a city, and offers the highest concentration of upscale shopping, entertainment and dining options in Tokyo. Akihabara Electric Town is the
best place to buy new and innovative technological equipment.
Hidden among the skyscrapers of Tokyo are some of its historical sites. The Meiji Shrine is a
shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji, the first emperor of modern Japan. The Meiji Shrine is
located in Yoyogi Park, and various events and festivals are held at this shrine each year.
Another great historical site is the Sensoji Temple. Located in the Asakusa section of
Shitamachi (Tokyo’s old town), the Sensoji Temple was built in 645 for Kannon, the Goddess
of Mercy, whose statue was supposedly found in the nearby Sumida River in 628 AD. A
shopping street called Nakamise leads to the temple’s outer gate. Yasukuni Shrine was built
in memory of those who lost their lives defending Japan. Many officials still come and offer
prayer annually on August 15, the anniversary of Japan’s defeat in World War II. Controversy
surrounded previous Prime Minister Koizumi’s choice to annually visit this shrine.
The Kabuki-cho area of the Shinjuku district is the perfect place to grab a shot of sake or a
cold Sapporo beer. Shinjuku, along with the Shibuya ward, are home to some of Tokyo’s
hottest nightclubs and friendliest watering holes.
Kamakura is located just one hour from Tokyo and offers many attractions including the
Great Buddha, Hachimangu Shrine, Hase Temple and many Zen temples. Kamakura is
sometimes called the Kyoto of Eastern Japan. Hakone, located two hours from Tokyo, is
perhaps the most famous National Park and resort area in Japan,
equivalent to America’s Yellowstone. It is situated amid the scenic
volcanic mountains and deep green forests of Mt. Fuji’s Five Lakes
region on Lake Ashi. It is said to offer one of the best views of Mt.
Fuji out across the lake. Nikko is a small city, two hours from
Tokyo, at the entrance to Nikko National Park. It is most famous
for the Toshogu, Japan’s most lavishly decorated shrine complex
and mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa
shogunate. Nikko has been a center of Shinto and Buddhist
mountain worship for many centuries, and Nikko National Park
continues to offer scenic, mountainous landscapes, lakes, waterfalls, hot springs, wild
monkeys and hiking trails.
PLACES OF INTEREST IN KOBE
You might want to try activities that will let you experience what the Japanese do. In Kobe, a
variety of markets are open to you, including the well–known department stores (Sogo,
Daimaru, Printemps) and the wholesale market (with a delightful
selection of fish and vegetables) south of the ship. Kobe’s parks offer
a glimpse of the Japanese family and one of the world’s greatest
landscape traditions. Mt. Rokko and Mt. Maya offer hiking, which is
very popular with the Japanese. The Shin–Kobe Station is an excellent
starting place for your hikes on Mt. Rokko. Public baths (sento) are
open to you if you are willing to learn the ropes, and the hot springs
at Arima (north of Rokko) are enjoyed by many. And, of course, you
may want to have at least one night in a ryokan. An exploration of Port Island will give you at
least one version of the future urban pattern for Japan.
The Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Modern Art should be on any art-lover’s list. It features
many masterpieces of modern art from Japan and foreign countries. The Kobe City Museum
is a museum of archaeology, history and folklore of Kobe. The Kobe Science Museum, located
on Port Island, is divided into two parts: a planetarium and exhibition halls featuring exhibits
on Force & Mechanics, Matter & Energy, Life, Environment and Information Science. There is
also a Maritime Museum adjacent to the Port Terminal Building. Sorakuen Garden is widely
known as a model landscape garden arranged elaborately in the Japanese traditional fashion.
Suma Aqualife Park contains a Piranha Tunnel, World’s Fish House, Sea Otter House, Daytime
and Nighttime Tanks, Dolphin House and a Huge Landscape Tank.
The Samurai Castle at Himeji is the finest example of a feudal castle in
Japan. Known as the Egret Castle because of its white plastered walls,
Himeji sits high on a hill and offers a view of the area. Restored in 1964, it
is an exact reproduction of the original castle which was built by Toyotomi
Hideyoshi in 1581 and renovated by Ikeda Terumasa in 1608. It is an
aka Dome
example of superb architecture and craftsmanship and is only 35 minutes by train from Kobe.
Excellent English–language guides are available.
PLACES OF INTEREST IN OSAKA
In the immediate port area are the Osaka Aquarium, Suntory Museum with an IMAX-3D
theatre and an art museum. A representation of 16th Japanese architecture is Osaka Castle.
In addition to the Main Keep are a museum, Nishinomaru Garden, and the nearby Osaka
International Peace Center with exhibits relating to World War II and stresses world peace.
Nakanoshima Park, the oldest park in Osaka, is near subway Kitahama Station and
Yodoyabashi Station. Also in the area are the Museum of Oriental Ceramics, the Science
Museum, and Osaka Contemporary Art Center. A Japanese Garden, the National Museum
of Art, the National Museum of Ethnology, the International Institute for Children's
Literature and the Expoland Amusement Park are situated within Osaka’s Expo ’70
Commemoration Park.
Osaka holds the 1990 International Garden and Greenery Expo. The site of the 1970 World
Expo in Osaka still holds the Museum of Ethnology, the National Museum of Fine Arts, the
International Institute of Children’s Literature and the Nihon Tein Mae Japanese Garden
(for tea ceremonies). The Hanshin Tigers’ baseball stadium is near
Osaka and you can experience Japanese sports culture by spending an
afternoon watching a game.
PLACES OF INTEREST IN HIROSHIMA
This experience has been described by many SAS participants as one
of the most memorable experiences of the entire voyage. Some
reactions are noted as being, “excellent, educational, emotional, sobering ... a must, an
experience in which every American should partake.”
On August 6, 1945, at 8:15am, the first atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima, signaling
Hiroshima’s instant destruction. The immediate and lasting impact on Hiroshima gives
concrete reality to the abstract horrors of nuclear war, just as
the city’s renewal demonstrates in steel and concrete the
incredible path of reconstruction the entire nation undertook
in a few short years following the war. Less than six decades
since its obliteration, it is once again the most vital city of
Hyogo Prefecture. In its confines, the Ota-gawa River fans out
into six delta tributaries that flow into the immense and very
busy bay. Amazingly, Hiroshima’s people quickly rebuilt a
vibrant city from the radioactive ashes, larger and more
prosperous than the old one, leaving only a few carefully
chosen scars to remind them and the millions of visitors of its atomic legacy. Forever
associated with the atomic bomb, the city’s renaissance also shows something of the resilience
of the human spirit.
Hiroshima was chosen as the site for the bombing due to its industrious city and also because
it held the largest concentration of troops and military personnel in western Japan. As a
solitary airplane flew overhead, a parachute drifted downwards and a small manmade sun
touched the earth just 1900 feet from the Industrial Promotion Hall.
This structure is the only ruined building still permitted to stand, its
dome the symbol of the destruction. Two hundred thousand people were killed, and many
more were injured, some for life. The area around the Hall has been made into a Peace Park
which contains the Peace Memorial Museum, Peace Memorial Hall, Cenotaph and Peace
Flame.
The Peace Memorial Museum which was built to memorialize this tragedy is both disturbing
and educational. Although the museum is filled with powerful images of terrible suffering, it
certainly is not a “hall of horrors” as one may expect. It is something every visitor should see to
help comprehend the realities of nuclear war, remembering that one of today's weapons is
equivalent to 2000 Hiroshima bombs. Exhibits include pieces of charred clothing, melted tires,
and photographs of devastated buildings and contorted bodies. Nothing can capture the
reality of temperatures said to be 12,632°F (7000°C), but the remains of the melted statue of
Buddha or the imprinted human shadows on the granite steps present vivid pictures of the
intensity of the heat. At the Peace Culture Center, films are shown several times per day. On
the east side of the museum is the Peace Memorial Hall, where documentaries on the effects
of atomic explosions are given in English.
The Memorial Cenotaph, resembling an inverted U-shape, reflects the design of the thatched
roof houses of Japanese antiquity. Buried inside the cenotaph is a chest containing the names
of those killed In Japanese, the inscription reads: “Repose ye in peace for the error shall not be
repeated.” In front of the Cenotaph is the Peace Flame which will be extinguished only after all
atomic bombs are banished. At the park exit is a statue of the A-Bomb Children which
includes the figure of a little girl who died of leukemia caused by atomic radiation. She
believed, or so the story goes, that if she could fold 1,000 paper cranes (a symbol of good
fortune and long life) her illness would be cured. She died after making over 1,300 cranes.
Many visitors to the park still make cranes and leave them behind in remembrance.
PLACES OF INTEREST IN KYOTO
Kyoto’s temples, gardens and shrines feature important historical/cultural attractions in Japan.
Kyoto demands at least a full day; though some find a week too short. Select your sites
carefully first, and be sure to carry a copy of the bus map published by JNTB. Kyoto is not a
small or condensed town.
Kyoto was founded in 794 as a ceremonial capital on the classical Chinese model, a
symmetrical grid facing south. The first 400 years were a period of relative prosperity and
creativity in literature, the arts, architecture and industry; but after
1194 it was the scene of war and disasters. The century of
1467-1569 saw almost continuous civil war and left Kyoto a
charred and exhausted ruin. Much of what stands today dates
from the Hideyoshi era (1536-1598).
Kyoto is reflection of Japan’s finest arts, architecture and crafts.
For over a thousand years, skilled craftsmen have been lured here
and have left an indelible impression of culture and refinement.
Over 200 shrines and 1600 temples exist
within Kyoto. Kyoto is
renowned for its noh and kabuki theaters,
and being home to the last
two traditional schools for geisha. The
Gion Corner offers an
overview of the major arts. You can
sample Bunraku (puppet
theatre), Kyogen (ancient comic drama),
Gagaku
(court
music
dance), Kyomai (Kyoto-style dance),
flower
arranging,
Koto
music and the traditional tea ceremony.
The Golden Pavilion, Kinkakuji, is a three-story pavilion entirely covered with gold leaf and is
probably the best-known temple in Japan. Although the present building dates from 1955, the
original was built in 1397 during the period of Shogun Yoshimitsu. Built as a retirement villa,
the Golden Pavilion displays his lavish tastes and sense of pomp and ostentation. Yoshimitsu
was an avid collector of art objects and was known for his flamboyant parties. In Shoin style,
the glowing Golden Pavilion is relatively small and is intended to harmonize with its setting
next to a pond in a park. The deep sills were used as desks, and the decorative, built-in
shelves held books or other objects.
The Silver Pavilion, Ginkaku-ji, is the more common name for Jisho-ji, a temple belonging to
the Shokoku School of the Rinzai Zen sect of Buddhism. This site (along with 16 other sites in
Kyoto) was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site in 1994. Ginkaku-ji was not originally a
temple but a retirement villa. Ashikaga Yoshimasa (1436-1490), the 8th Ashikaga Shogun and
grandson of Ashikaga Yoshimitsu began construction in 1460 but was prevented from
completing the project due to the Onin Wars (1467-1477).
In December 1994, the Ryoanji Temple was designated as World Heritage by UNESCO.
Ryoanji (Temple of the Peaceful Dragon) is in the northwest section of Kyoto, not far from
Kinkakuji. This is temple belongs to the Myoshinji School of the Rinzai branch of the Zen sect.
The earliest temple recorded on this site dates from 983, though it was originally the estate
of one of the branches of the Fujiwara family during the Heian period. After serving as the
retirement home of an emperor it became a temple known as Tokudaiji (also referred to as
Enyuji). It is famed for its mysterious Zen rock garden consisting of nothing but white gravel/
sand and 15 rocks, laid out just after the Onin Wars in the late 15th century. Put simply, this
rock garden is acknowledged to be one of the absolute masterpieces of Japanese culture.
Sanjusangendo Hall is known as the “Hall of 33 Bays,” and was built in 1266. The main
structure is approximately 394 feet long. Sanjusangendo is the repository for the famous
1000-handed Buddhist deity, the Goddess of Mercy or Kannon in Japan. Kannon sits 11 feet
high and was carved by Tankei in 1254 when he was over 80 years old. Surrounding the main
Kannon sculpture are 100 smaller gilded Kannons, all in various poses. Also located within this
hall are the “28 Faithful Followers.” A mixture of fantasy and spiritual ecstasy, these statues
are humanoids with animal features whose expressions have been captured in wood.
Nijo Castle was the opulent, artistically rich residence of shoguns. Built in 1603 to
demonstrate military dominance over the city, the stone walls and gold-leafed audience halls
show where power lay during the Edo Period. The “nightingale floors” squeak with every step
to warn of intruders. Under Emperor Meiji, Nijo Castle became the
temporary seat of government where, ironically, the edict banning
the shogunate was issued. Although Nijo Castle has moats and
turrets, the overall effect is that of a quiet villa with military
conquest and court espionage unthinkable. The gardens designed
by the master Enshu are a focal point of grandeur and dignity, an
example of a lord's strolling garden. Stroll over the grounds and
take in the filigree, carvings, murals and screens that adorn and
enhance the structures.
Kiyomizu Temple is famous for its wooden
veranda suspended over a deep gorge, and
its panorama as the city blends into the western horizon. The Japanese
saying, “to jump from the balcony of Kiyomizu” is used when one must
make a difficult or daring decision. Founded in 798, its present
buildings date mostly from 1633. Kiyomizu Temple is entered from “Teapot Lane,” so called
because of the numerous shops lining the approach that sell Kiyomizu ceramics.
Heian Shrine is a scaled-down replica of the first Imperial Palace in Kyoto and built by
Emperor Kammu in 794. Heian Shrine was constructed in 1895 to commemorate the 1,100th
anniversary of the founding of Kyoto. The massive torii (gate) spanning the entrance could
easily accommodate three city buses abreast. The main buildings are the east and west
Honden (Main Halls), the Otemon (Great Gate), two pagodas and the Daigokuden (Hall of
State). Located on the grounds are gardens.
PLACES OF INTEREST IN NARA
Nara’s parks and temples are also significant. Nara is said to be
the sentimental as well as the historic heart of Japan. It is in the
district of Yamato where the first group of settlers is believed to
have established residence. Many buildings of an earlier, gentler
age are in Nara. Nara Deer Park sits in the northeastern corner of
Nara and was established as a public park in 1880. Tame deer,
sacred to Kasuga Taisha shrine, are its symbol.
Horyuji Temple boasts the oldest wooden buildings in the world.
Founded in 607 by Prince Shotoku, the pivotal figure who
established Chinese religion and culture in Japan, it is another time capsule preserving
hundreds of art works from the 7th and 8th centuries. Most visitors start from the Western
Cloister where the avenue is lined by earthen walls. The wood grain patterns created by
pressing the earth with boards were thought to make the walls earthquake resistant. The
Chumon (Middle Gate) has pillars that are famous for their outward curvature, a feature of
Greek architecture which traveled to Japan via the Silk Road. Inside the Western Cloister are
the Pagoda and Kondo. The Kondo houses a rare group of bronzes in Wei style which are
distinguished by elongated faces and almost art-deco like lines. One of the pleasures of
Horyuji is the walk out through the cloister to the Daihozoden Museum. While the building is
not impressive, the treasures housed within are impressive. The Eastern Cloister with its Hall
of Dreams contains a Secret Buddha only on view in the spring and fall. Behind the Eastern
Cloister is the Chuguji, a nunnery housing a wooden statue of Miroku, God of the Future and
the supreme statue of Nara.
Todaiji Temple sits within in Deer Park and is known as the “Hall of the Great Buddha.”
Founded in 743, it is the most important temple in Nara.
Enshrining a monumental bronze image of Vairocana, the hall
has been destroyed numerous times by fire. The present
building dates from 1706. Although only two thirds of its
original size, Todaiji is still said to be the largest wooden
structure in the world. The interior portrays a sense of the
dark medieval grandeur that was old Nara. The bronze statue
is 53 feet tall and weighs 500 tons. Behind Todaiji Temple is a
quiet part of the park where one can rest from the milling
crowds.
TRADITIONAL ARTS IN JAPAN
Bunraku puppet plays are one of the most fascinating forms of classical theater in Japan.
Elaborately dressed in historically correct costumes of the feudal era, the puppets are about
two-thirds life-size. Manipulators standing behind the puppets are dressed in black and
concealed up to the waist by a special stage. The puppets' antics are amazingly lifelike.
Sometimes three persons manipulate the main character puppet. The plot is recited by a
balladeer, accompanied primarily by the music of the samisen.
Noh drama and its related Kyogen farces are stately, ritualized dramatic forms that can be
traced to the sacred courtly dances and music of the Buddhist monks who came to Japan in the
6th century. The dances and songs which were offered at shrines during festivals evolved into
the Noh drama of the 13th century. The plays were once an intricate part of life, especially to
samurai and upper classes. The main actor will often begin as one character and later emerge
as another in gorgeous costumes and masks. The plot is moved along by a chorus of eight
people, accompanied by drums and a flute. The movement of a Noh play is static; its main
ideas are portrayed symbolically.
Kabuki is the drama of the common man, although this was not always the case. Kabuki plays
trace their origin to the feudal days of the Tokugawa Shogunate. In 1603, a priestess called
Izumo-O-Kuni began to perform strange dances in public in an attempt to raise money for her
shrine. Her dances imitated warriors, courtesans and other figures of the day, and soon
became flirtatious and downright bawdy. Troupes of wandering geishas began performing
Kabuki. The Tokugawa government, outraged by this affront to public decency, banned women
from such performances and instituted all-male troupes with young boys playing the parts of
women. The young boys were later replaced by older men called onnangata who raised female
impersonation to a respected art form. Kabuki is an actor's medium. The plots are often weak
melodramas but with artful settings, dazzling effects and magnificent costumes. It involves
audience participation; people call out loudly to actors moving about the theater.
Ikebana, the art of flower arranging, probably came into prominence as a visual highlight for
the tea ceremony. There are over 20 nationally famous styles (schools) of ikebana, each
applying its own particular philosophy of arrangement. However, a common concept holds that
the arranged flowers should represent ten-chi-jin (heaven-earth-man). The main upward
branch represents heaven; branches to the right are man; and the lowest branches on the left
are the earth. Attention is also paid to the kind of flower used, where it is placed, and the
shape of the vase that holds it. Most arrangements are very simple and not at all like the floral
bouquets prevalent in the West.
Saddo, the Japanese Tea Ceremony, is a medium for
attaining enlightenment and composure by focusing on the
transcendental quality of human imperfection in a perfect
cosmos. Approaching a religious rite, the ceremony can be
quite lengthy. Guests are generally ushered through a
rather small door into a tiny anteroom, where the tea
ceremony utensils have been arranged with painstaking
artistry for visual enjoyment. Guests sit Japanese-style,
with legs tucked under the body, on tatami mats. In formal
tea ceremonies, a simple dinner of prescribed dishes is
served and eaten according to strict rules. The host serves
a high grade of powdered, pea-green tea, which has been
placed in a lovely bowl and whipped to froth with a tiny bamboo whisk. When offered, the
bowl of tea should be taken with the right hand and the palm of the left hand should be
placed flat under the bowl. The guest should bow twice in gratitude, once to the tea master
and once to the Buddha. Before drinking, the bowl should be turned using the right hand to
the left so that the most beautiful side of the bowl is turned away. The tea is sipped noisily
and then the area where the lips have touched is wiped with the thumb and index finger. A
sweet cake is served on a tiny napkin. After the cake is eaten the napkin is used to further
wipe the bowl. The bowl is again rotated to the left so that the guest can admire the beautiful
side before placing the bowl back on the table.
SHINTO DEFINED
A basic understanding of the Japanese religious sensibility must begin with Shinto. Though it is
not a “national religion” in any official sense, Shinto influences virtually every aspect of
Japanese culture and society. There are 13 mainstream Shinto sects and numerous sub sects in
Japan today.
Although not a systemized set of beliefs, it can be said that Shinto shares tenets with many
other ancient faiths of the world. A primary belief is that all natural objects and phenomena
possess a spiritual side. It is this animism, mixed with ancestor worship that characterizes
Shinto. For example, a tree was revered by the ancient Japanese as a source of food (nuts and
fruit), of energy (firewood), of shelter and even of clothing. For that reason, when a great tree
was felled to provide wood for temple complexes at Nara or Kyoto, it was not used for several
years to give the spirit time to safely depart.
It should be recognized that the term kami, though usually translated as “god”, is quite
different from the Western concept of divinity. The classic definition, as originally understood
in Japan, is “anything whatsoever which was outside the ordinary, which possessed superior
power, or which was awe-inspiring.” Today, we often hear expressions like “the god of
baseball,” or “the god of management.” Not intended to be taken entirely tongue-in-cheek,
the Japanese at least subconsciously still believe that the land and air is filled with the
presence of kami-sama.
In ancient Shinto there was a belief in a soul that lived on after death. Early Shinto had
concepts of heaven and hell, although they were hazily defined. There is no concept of sin,
divine retribution, or absolution for offenses committed. It was commonly thought the dead
would eventually be reborn into the world.
EXPERIENCING A SHINTO SHRINE
The thousands of Shinto shrines, known as jinga (or jingu when they
are national shrines), vary in size from tiny roadside boxes to large
compounds. Nearly all share certain features.
Understanding the structure: First, there is at least one torii. This
gateway may have evolved from a bird’s perch as a bird is often a
religious symbol in many animistic cults, and may be made of wood,
stone, metal or even concrete. The torii serves to mark off areas
considered sacred from those thought profane. Often the largest
building of the shrine is the honden: the main dwelling of the deity.
Elevated above the other buildings and reached by a staircase, it is usually off-limits to
visitors. Inside are a few green twigs which are changed daily, an earthen vessel for offerings,
and a grass mat for the head priest who administers these rituals. Everything is kept
scrupulously clean in accordance with Shinto’s fixation on ritual purity. In front of the honden
is the worship hall used for ritual ceremonies. This structure is a roof supported by pillars,
open on all sides, and is used only by the priests and special guests. What to do: There are no elaborate rituals or prescribed
procedures involved in worshiping at a shrine. On entering the
grounds you see a stone wash-basin, often with wooden, bamboo
or tin ladles balanced across it. Here you rinse your mouth and
hands in preparation for approaching the deity. It is customary to
toss a small offering into the cashbox at the foot of the haiden before sounding the piñata-like
shaker to attract the attention of the god. Most devout worshipers also clap their hands twice,
making doubly sure the god is listening. Then, with or without the hands held together, a deep
bow is performed and held while the prayer is offered. Two sharp claps of the hand, another
light bow, and the simple ritual is done. The worshipper backs slowly away a few steps before
turning and going about his or her business. Charms “guaranteed” to ensure a variety of good
fortunes may be sold nearby.
THE “MIDDLE WAY” OF BUDDHISM
Today, there are an estimated 56 divisions, and 170 subdivisions, in Japanese Buddhism. The
basic beliefs of the religion’s founder, Siddhārtha Gautama, born a prince in eastern India
around 500 BCE, advocated the “Middle Way” between self-indulgence and asceticism. The
Buddha, as he came to be known, associated all pain in the world with desire, and claimed that
through right living desire could be ended and the “self” totally done away with through entry
into the blissful state of Nirvana.
Buddha’s followers came to believe that one who really knows the Truth lives a life of Truth
and becomes Truth him or herself. By overcoming the conflicts of the ego one can attain a
vision of universal, cosmic harmony. Mahayana, meaning “Greater Vehicle,” was the form of
Buddhism established through most of East Asia. It holds that all beings share a basic spiritual
communion and all are destined for Buddhahood. Every person's present situation is
determined by past deeds, Buddhists believe; this is the principle of karma.
Although the goal of Nirvana is to break the cycle of
reincarnation, most Japanese Buddhists seem to believe that the
souls of the dead are eventually reborn. It is believed that the
dead go to paradise which is in direct contradiction to the more
“orthodox” Buddhist belief that death as a “permanent state”.
Japanese spirits return to earth from the mountains for the midsummer “Feast of the Dead”. This may derive from the special
place mountains have held in Japanese religious lore. The
Japanese concept of after-life appears to be quite similar to that
held before Buddhism arrived. Most believe that the life force
passed on from one generation to the next continues eternally.
EXPERIENCING A BUDDHIST TEMPLE
Buddhist temples are usually large compounds and are found throughout Japan. When you
approach you will notice a stone lantern before the main building. In earlier times only priests
and nobility could proceed beyond the lantern. Often an admission is charged but can include
superb gardens and museums. Unlike Shinto shrines, temples include intricately carved rafters
and panels which are painted in bright red, blue, green and gold. Highly stylized rituals go on
day and night accompanied by the striking of resonant gongs, beating of drums, and repetitive
chanting.
Incense sticks, purchased on entering, burn in large pots at
the feet of Buddha. There is also a cylindrical box that you
rattle until a stick with a number attached pops through a
hole in the top. The number corresponds to an omikuji
(prayer paper) which is often written in the form of a
fortune. You will see thousands of omikuji tied to the trees
and bushes surrounding the temple. This is a way of
offering prayers to ensure that good fortunes are granted.
The main building, library, bell tower and other buildings of
a temple complex can be quite exquisite architectural
creations. The most easily admired is the pagoda. The Japanese form evolved from the domeshaped stupa in which the bones of the Buddha and Buddhist saints were buried in India.
Pagodas can range from one to 13 stories. The most common is a five-storied pagoda with the
floors representing earth, water, wind, fire and air. The next most common pagoda is three
stories, representing past, present and future. Pagodas are always capped by a nine-ringed
spire which represents the Noble Eightfold Path and Nirvana. Inside the pagoda is a large beam
suspended from the ceiling that almost touches the ground. Ancient records hold that this
beam was a grave marker.
Among the various statues you will see many Buddhist deities. More common ones include
Hotei is a jolly Buddha with a large belly representing satisfaction and contentment; Nyorai, a
Buddha with a lump on his forehead, embodies wisdom; and Maitreya, a Buddha of the future.
CULTURAL INFORMATION
Karaoke: A trip to Japan is simply not complete without a visit to one of the many karaoke
bars or boxes available. You have not sampled karaoke properly until you have tried it the
way it was meant to be experienced. Kara means empty, and oke is the abbreviation of
okesutura - a Japanese reading of the word “orchestra”. The phenomenon of the “empty
orchestra” originated in the city of Kobe 20 years ago. When a guitarist could not perform in a
snack bar one night, the inspired owner encouraged his patrons to sing along to instrumental
tape recordings. It began on tape format and went through many technological developments
until the home karaoke kit was created. Unfortunately, Japanese houses tend to be very close
together and poorly insulated so this never took off and instead the karaoke box was
invented. Karaoke boxes are roadside facilities containing closed-door, insulated rooms
where you can sing you heart out without bothering the neighbors. The first one appeared in
Okayama in 1984, based on a converted freight car. The fad soon spread across the whole of
Japan
Manga: Almost everyone in Japan reads comic books. They
are ubiquitous on the trains, seen in hands of salarymen,
housewives, college, high school and elementary school
children.
Purikura: Definitely make a stop at one of the many purikura
(short for print club) photo booths that can be seen all over
Japan. Go into the booth with a friend and pose for the
camera. You have a short time once the photos are taken to
decorate them in a myriad of ways. Junior high and high
school students have extensive collections of these small pictures taken over the years with
their friends.
JAPANESE LANGUAGE SHEET
It is fairly easy for English speakers to pronounce Japanese. There is very little variance in
stress. Equal weight is given to every syllable of a word unless it has a lengthened vowel
sound, in which case the duration of the sound is doubled. Although pitch is important in
Japanese, simply following this pronunciation guide will allow you to be understood.
VOWELS
'macaroni'
a
as 'a' in 'father'
e
as 'e' in 'get' o
as 'o' in 'lot' u
as 'u' in 'flu'
i
as
'i'
in
CONSONANTS
Consonants are pronounced the same as in English, with the following exceptions:
f
where 'f', sometimes Romanized as 'h', appears in Romanized Japanese it is
pronounced much lighter than in English -- the easiest way to approximate this
Japanese sound is to purse the lips and blow lightly
g
if a word starts with a 'g', it is given a hard sound as in 'goal'; in the middle of a
word it is often nasalized as 'ng'
n
given a more nasal sound than in English when it occurs as a final consonant -otherwise like the 'n' in 'no'
r
pronounced with the tip of the tongue quickly touching the ridge just behind the
upper front teeth; somewhere between an 'l' and an 'r'
s
always given a hard sound as in 'saw'
w
the lips are not rounded but left slack.
Double consonants are pronounced as separate syllables. Kissaten, for example, is
pronounced as kis-saten.
Please
SOME COMMON WORDS AND PHRASES - JAPANESE
onegai-shimasu
Where is wa
doko
desu ka?
domo arigato
Toilet toire
kon-nichi wa
Bank ginko
sayonara
Post Office yubin kyoku
hai or ee
Telephone denwa
iie
Harbor
minato
watashi-no-namae wa ____ desu Restaurant resutoran
your
name?anata-no-onamae
wa
nan
desu
ka?Train
Thank you Hello Goodbye
Yes No
My name is What
is
densha
Do you speak English? eigo o hanashimasu ka?
Taxi
takushi
Monday
getsuyobi
Tuesday
kayobi
W e d n e s d a y
s u i y o
fune Thursday
mokuyobi
ryojikan
Friday
kin-yobi
Saturday
doyobi
Bus
basu
Airport
Police Station
University
Hospital Temple
b i
U.S. Consulate
kuko
kouban
daigaku
byoin
tera
S h i p
a m e r i k a
Sunday
What's the exchange rate?
nichiyobi
kokan reto wa ikura desu ka?
I want to change money.
How much is this? I'm lost
What time is it?
I'm a student
o-kane o kaetai-no desu ga
kore wa ikura desu ka?
michi ni mayoi mashita
nanji desu ka?
watakushi wa gakusei desu
3 san
5 go
1 ichi 2 ni
4 shi
6 roku
7 shichi
hachi
9 kyu
10 ju
8
(Updated: 11/28/2012) S13