CONTENTS
HOW TO USE
INTRODUCTION
Where to go
When to go
Author picks
Things not to miss
Itineraries
BASICS
Getting there
Getting around
Accommodation
Food and drink
The media
Festivals
Sports and outdoor activities
Culture and etiquette
Shopping
Travel essentials
THE GUIDE
1. Kingston
2. The Blue Mountains and the east
3. Ocho Rios and the north coast
4. Montego Bay and Cockpit Country
5. Negril and the west
6. The south
CONTEXTS
History
The environment
Religion
Music
Books
Language
MAPS AND SMALL PRINT
INTRODUCTION TO JAMAICA
Beautiful, brash Jamaica is much more than beaches and swaying palm trees. A sensual land of
bright colours, soulful rhythms and unfailing creativity, the island retains an attitude – a
personality – that’s more resonant and distinctive than you’ll find in any other Caribbean
nation. There’s certainly plenty of white sand and gin-clear sea to enjoy, but away from the coast
are spectacular mountains and rivers, tumbling waterfalls and cactus-strewn savannah plains.
This verdant natural environment forms the backdrop to a dynamic cultural history in the
island’s towns and cities, illustrated most vividly by the explosive reggae scene, but also in the
powerful expression of its artwork and the startlingly original flavours of its national cuisine.
Jamaicans are justifiably proud of a rich musical heritage imitated the world over, as well as their
incredible sporting successes on the running track and cricket pitch. This prominent and vibrant
culture has left scarcely a corner of the world untouched – quite some feat, and out of all proportion to
the island’s relatively tiny size. In some respects it’s a country with a swagger in its step, confident of
its triumphs in the face of adversity, but also with a weight upon its shoulders. An unsparingly tough
history has had to be reckoned with, and the country hasn’t avoided familiar problems of development
like dramatic wealth inequality and social tensions that occasionally spill over into localized violence
and worldwide headlines. The mixture is potent, producing a people as renowned for being sharp,
sassy and straight-talking as they are laid-back and hip. People don’t mince their words here;
Jamaicans get on with life, and their directness can make them seem cantankerous, or even
uncompromising or rude. Particularly around resort towns and the major attractions this can be taken
to extremes at times, though the harassment of tourists that once bedevilled the island is much less
noticeable these days.
The Jamaican authorities have spent millions making sure the island treats its tourists right, and as a
foreign visitor, your chances of encountering any real trouble are minuscule. As the birthplace of the
all-inclusive hotel, Jamaica has become well suited to tourists who want to head straight from plane
to beach, never leaving their hotel compound. But to get any sense of the country at all, you’ll need to
do some exploring. It’s undoubtedly worth it, as this is a place packed with first-class attractions and
natural attributes, oozing with character. Jamaica’s food and drink are one of the island’s main draws,
from a plate of grilled lobster served up by the sea to conch soup or jerk chicken from a roadside stall,
not to mention a variety of rums and fine Blue Mountain coffee. And with a rich music scene at its
clubs, sound-system parties and stageshows, if you’re a reggae fan, you’re in heaven.
ZOOM LEFT
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FACT FILE
The largest English-speaking island in the Caribbean, Jamaica is 235km long, boasts 1019km of
coastline and rises up to its highest point at Blue Mountain Peak, standing at 2256m.
Jamaica’s population is almost three million, with a quarter living in greater Kingston.
Jamaica gained independence from Britain in 1962, though it remains in the British
Commonwealth with the Queen nominal head of state, represented locally by a Governor General.
Sugar cane, bananas, plantains, mangoes, breadfruit, ackees, bamboo, coconut palms, as well as
cannabis, are not native to Jamaica, having been imported by the Tainos, Spanish, Africans,
Indians and British.
The Vatican aside, Jamaica boasts more churches per square kilometre than anywhere else on
Earth, over half of them Evangelical Protestant.
For years Jamaica has spent around fifty percent of its national budget servicing external debt,
dramatically limiting spending on public services.
Measuring just 6cm from head to tailfeather Jamaica’s bee hummingbird is one of the world’s
smallest birds, while the Giant Swallowtail butterfly, with a wingspan of up to 15cm, is the
largest in the western hemisphere.
Jamaicans consume four times more rum than beer, with annual domestic rum sales totalling
US$200 million.
Where to go
Most of Jamaica’s tourist business is concentrated in the “big three” resorts of Montego Bay, Negril
and Ocho Rios. A busy commercial city, Montego Bay has a string of hotels, bars and restaurants
along its beach-lined tourist strip, and manicured golf courses and high-end all-inclusives hogging the
coast to the east. West of here, its low-rise hotels slung along eleven kilometres of fantastic white
sand and three kilometres of dramatic cliffs, Negril is younger, more laid-back and with a longstanding reputation for hedonism and buzzing nightlife. East of MoBay, and the least individualistic
of the big three, Ocho Rios embodies high-impact tourism – purpose-built in the 1960s to provide the
ultimate package of sun, sand and sea. The beaches aren’t wonderful, but the tourist infrastructure is
undeniably strong and you’re right by several excellent attractions, including the famous Dunn’s
River waterfall.
Away from these resorts, you’ll have to look a bit harder to find your entertainment – Jamaica’s
quieter east and south coasts offer a less packaged product. In the island’s east, lush, rain-fed, sleepy
Port Antonio and a number of villages to its east provide gateways to some of the county’s greatest
natural attractions, like the cascading waterfalls at Reach and Somerset and outdoor activities such as
swimming at the Blue Lagoon and rafting on the majestic Rio Grande. The south coast offers
different pleasures, such as gentle beach action at the terminally easy-going Treasure Beach – the
perfect base for exploring local delights like the YS waterfalls or boat safaris in search of crocodiles
on the Black River. Set in the upper reaches of the Santa Cruz Mountains, the south’s inland towns,
such as Mandeville and Christiana, offer respite from the heat of the coast and an interesting insight
into Jamaica away from the resorts.
Kingston is the true heart of Jamaica. A thrilling place pulsating with energy and spirit, it’s not just
the nation’s political capital but the focus of its art, theatre and music scenes, with top-class hotels,
restaurants and shopping, and legendary fried fish on offer at the fabulous Hellshire beach. This is the
best place to experience Jamaica’s electric nightlife scene; its venues and street dances are nearly
always packed with patrons, the music super-loud and dancers vying with each other for the best
moves and dress. A stunning backdrop to the city, the cool Blue Mountains are a captivating antidote,
with plenty of marvellous hiking, while the nearby fishing village of Port Royal, once a great pirate
city, provides some historic diversion.
REGGAE SUMFEST, MONTEGO BAY
GOING OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Though beaches and buzzing resort areas are Jamaica’s most obvious draws, one of the island’s
greatest assets is its spectacular interior. With everything from mist-swathed mountains to steamy
rainforest, lush wetland and cane-covered agricultural plains, the Jamaican countryside is one of the
most diverse in the Caribbean and is a joy to explore, as much for its scenic delights as for its
profusion of one-horse towns, where you can sink a glass or two of overproof in the obligatory rum
shop, enjoy late-night sound-system parties at fenced-off village “lawns” and get a flavour of
Jamaican life that couldn’t be more different to that in the resorts. And whether your goal is a swim
in a waterfall or river, or a hike into the hills, the journey can be as much of a joy as the destination
itself, especially if you stop off en route to sample pepper shrimp, roast yam and saltfish or jerk
chicken from one of the country’s innumerable roadside stalls.
When to go
Jamaica’s climate means hot sun year-round, but the weather is at its most appealing during the peak
tourist season (mid-Dec to mid-April), when rainfall is lowest and the heat is tempered by cooling
trade winds known as the “Doctor Breeze”. Nights can get chilly during this period, and you’ll
probably want to bring a sweater. Things get noticeably hotter during the summer and, particularly in
September and October, the humidity can become oppressive. September is also the most threatening
month of the annual hurricane season, which runs officially from June 1 to October 31.
Prices and crowds are at their highest during peak season, when the main attractions and beaches get
pretty busy. Outside this period everywhere is quieter and, though the main resorts throb with life
pretty much year-round and the summer school holidays see an upsurge in visitor arrivals, less
popular tourist areas like Port Antonio and Treasure Beach can feel a little lifeless. The good news is
that hotel prices everywhere fall by up to 25 percent, there are more bargains to be had in every field
of activity and a number of festivals – including the massive annual Reggae Sumfest – inject some
summertime zip.
< Back to Introduction
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT ROYAL PALM PRESERVE; RASTA CARVINGS; CLIFFS AT WEST END, NEGRIL; FISH,
WHITE RIVER
15 THINGS NOT TO MISS
It’s not possible to see everything that Jamaica has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest
you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective and subjective taste of the country’s
highlights, including dazzling beaches, dynamic festivals and clubs, and the very best food and
drink. Each entry has a reference that will take you straight to the Guide where you can find out
more.
1 Firefly Left just as it was when he died, Noël Coward’s former home offers a poignant insight into
his life, and with a spectacular location above the St Mary coastline, Firefly has the ultimate “room
with a view”.
2 Nightlife From stageshows like Rebel Salute or Reggae Sumfest, to legendary street dances and the
best clubs in Kingston, Montego Bay and Negril, Jamaica’s nightlife scene is unforgettable.
3 Kingston The cultural heart of the nation, Jamaica’s atmospheric capital holds museums to Marley,
galleries galore, blissful public parks and some simply brilliant bars, restaurants and clubs.
4 Ackee and saltfish Sample the national dish, a delectable and addictive combination of salt cod and
the little-known ackee fruit.
5 Take a boat cruise The catamarans, sail-swathed pirate boats and souped-up pirogues that cruise
Jamaica’s coastline offer a wonderful perspective of the island as well as access to some of its best
snorkelling spots.
6 Blue Lagoon Jamaica abounds with turquoise swimming holes, but their king is undoubtedly
Portland’s Blue Lagoon, where deliciously cool spring water layers over salty seawater from the blue
depths below.
7 Hiking in the Blue Mountains Cool, misty and fragrant with coffee and wild ginger flowers, the
Blue Mountains are perfect hiking territory, the ultimate challenge being the highest point in Jamaica,
Blue Mountain Peak.
8 Beaches From the north coast’s strips of fine white sand to the wind-whipped breakers and black
volcanic sand in the south, Jamaica’s shoreline is immensely varied – but the Caribbean sea is always
warm and inviting.
9 Port Royal This former pirate haunt bristles with character, and is also the jumping-off point for the
clear waters of nearby Lime Cay.
10 National Gallery This Kingston institution offers the country’s premier collection of work by
Jamaican artists.
11 River rafting A glide through the cool waters of one of Jamaica’s rivers is a beguiling way to see
the countryside.
12 Negril sunsets Right at the island’s western tip, Negril is in pole position for the best sunsetwatching in Jamaica.
13 Treasure Beach With its laid-back atmosphere, Treasure Beach offers a restorative antidote to the
north coast resorts.
14 Waterfalls Jamaica’s waterfalls are a delight: clamber up Dunn’s River, swing over the water at
YS or enjoy a natural jacuzzi at Reach.
15 Pelican Bar Perched on stilts 1km from the shore, this ramshackle bar is a unique place to catch
the sunset.
< Back to Introduction