HFM SKINSPECIAL
It’s the latest buzz phrase in beauty. Pinpointing
your ‘micro skin type’ is the only thing standing
between you and a clear complexion. HFM
beauty director Charlotte Jolly explains
Qureshi. “No one has
straight oily or dry skin; it
changes over time, and it
reacts to your environment,
hormone levels and
lifestyle. Skin needs to be
micro-managed. Sticking to
a regime with such a
admit I used to be a
limited scope will
skincare cynic. Turned
exacerbate your existing
off by the pseudo
issues, and create some
science and “miracle”
new ones.”
rhetoric, I didn’t buy
Dr Barbara Sturm, a
into its transformative
molecular cosmetics
powers – until I met Katy
specialist, and one of the
Perry. The interview took
most sought-after aesthetics
place in a sun-drenched
doctors in Hollywood, says
“A PRESCRIPTIVE
hotel suite; I came armed
brands cling on to these
REGIME
CAN
with a raft of questions on
antiquated skin
COMPLETELY
dealing with “tricky skin”
subcategories as a
(Katy’s words, not mine),
marketing tool but the trend
OVERHAUL
YOUR
which I spent my allotted
is towards “zonal
COMPLEXION”
22 minutes skirting around,
application” when it comes
because she had the most
to topicals. “Pimples, for
resplendent, smooth skin I’d
example, don’t necessarily
ever seen. I mean, immaculate. Having
denote ‘oily’ skin; clogged pores can occur in
battled acne breakouts in her early 20s,
clusters and be exacerbated by stress. In fact,
Katy adopted a more bespoke approach to
the most common condition I treat in young
skincare, which included a Shu Uemura
women is perioral dermatitis (a rash of small,
cleansing oil, regular steams, powerful
red bumps around the mouth), which is
antioxidants, laser therapy and a slew of
triggered by overloading skin with too many
supplements. Sitting inches away from me,
ingredients. My mantra is minimise the number
her near-perfect, porcelain complexion had
of products you use to maximise results.”
an almost otherworldly quality.
So how can you tell what ingredients your
“Of course genetics play a part,” says
skin’s crying out for? We’ve taken out the
Nausheen Qureshi, biochemist and founder
guess work with our Skin Glossary (a cheat
of skincare brand Elethea. “But topical
sheet breaking down the six most common
treatments have advanced so much in the
micro types). Then, to help pare back your
last ten years, a prescriptive regime can
product count, turn over for our expertlycompletely overhaul your complexion. As
curated skincare prescriptions and the latest
scientists, we can isolate ingredients to target
‘fix it’ facials.
specific cell receptors and actually alter the
structure of skin.”
So how prescriptive are your products? It
was Helena Rubinstein, back in the early
1900s, who first classified skin as oily, dry,
combination or sensitive. Although
revolutionary at the time, it’s time to redefine
those catch-all categories, according to
I
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SKIN
GLOSSARY
MODEL: MARGARITA PUGOVKA @ ELITE LISBON PHOTOS: JENS STUART/ FOLIO ID SOURCES: SENSITIVE SKIN: AN EPIDEMIOLOGICAL STUDY 2001. EUROPEAN DERMATOLOGY LONDON. SYNERON CANDELA 2013. JOURNAL FOR INVESTIGATIVE DERMATOLOGY, 2010.
WORLD HEALTH ORGANISATION, 2014
Y OUR N EW
G U I DE T O
SK I N T Y PI NG
1
INTOLERANT
SKIN / n. itchy,
prone to redness,
sometimes accompanied
by tiny red pimples and
a tight, tingly sensation.
Ingredients in skincare
and cosmetics trigger
flare-ups, and reactions
are aggravated by stress
and changes in climate.
3
5
Sixty-two per cent of women
say they have sensitive skin.
Conditions like eczema are
genetic, but allergies and
rosacea are not and can be
caused by layering
products. Retinoids and
alpha hydroxy acids, for
example, both slough off
dead cells so you’re
exfoliating twice, which can
strip skin and increase the
potential for irritation.
For 16 per cent of women,
pigmentation is their top
skin gripe. When UV rays
hit skin the body produces
melanin as a way to
protect itself. Don’t expect
discolouration to appear
overnight, it takes years for
melanin stored in skin to
clump together at the
surface of the epidermis
and form dark spots; it’s a
cumulative effect.
As well as forming an icky
film of urban dust,
microscopic specks of
pollutants pass through
pores and infiltrate the
epidermis. Nine UK cities
(including London,
Birmingham and Leeds)
have unsafe levels of
pollution. The mineral
content in hard water can
lead to clogged pores and
irritation, too.
2
4
6
Ninety per cent of skin
ageing is environmental, but
10 per cent is genetic (so
even if you slept in an
oxygen tank you’d notice a
loss of firmness by 35).
Wrinkles start forming as
early as your mid-20s;
smiling, squinting and
frowning encourage grooves
to form under the surface.
Lines only become etched in
skin when elastin weakens
and collagen production
starts to taper off.
One in five women
between 25-40 suffer from
acne. During menstruation,
oestrogen is low and skin
is typically dry and
sensitive. The rise of
oestrogen on days seven
to 15 triggers the
production of hyaluronic
acid, so skin looks glowy.
After ovulation (days
16-28) progesterone picks
up and skin has a higher
bacterial cell count, so is
particularly acne-prone.
Often confused with
dehydrated skin (lacking in
water), underactive skin
does not produce enough
sebum (made up of lipids).
Lipids constitute 40 per cent
of skin cell membranes,
ensuring cells work properly
and communicate
effectively. Pores appear
small because follicles
aren’t dilated and the skin’s
barrier function is
weakened, which leads to
inflammation.
DULL SKIN /
n. a slack skin
surface (creases at
the corner of each eye,
horizontal lines across
the forehead and folds
running between the
nose and mouth), does
not reflect light evenly,
so it lacks luminosity.
UNEVEN SKIN
/ n. has a blotchy
tone, tagged with
brown spots and patches
of discolouration.
Sun exposure is the
common culprit. A
mottled skin surface is
often cited as the first
sign of ageing.
MOODY SKIN
/ n. a changeable
complexion,
fluctuating in tone
and texture over a
28-day cycle. Common
manifestations: acne
around jaw, dryness and
sensitivity. | Synonym
Hormonal Skin
CITY SKIN / n.
a wan complexion,
characterised by
dotty, pin-prick pores,
inflammation and/
or areas of dryness.
More instances of
hyperpigmentation
are recorded in high
pollution areas.
SLUGGISH
SKIN / n. rough
and flaky in
texture, showing a
lack of elasticity. Pores
appear small, wrinkles
are pronounced
and skin is prone to
sensitivity. | Synonym
Alipidic Skin
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HFM SKINSPECIAL
P I C K U P Y OU R
PR E SC R I P T ION
MOODY SKIN
TIP
Blanket coverage won’t
cut it; tailor your topicals
to treat different areas of
your face, at various
times of the month.
Switch between soothing
ingredients, such as aloe
vera and spot fighters
like salicylic acid.
We buy, on average, four moisturisers every year. Our
annual skin spend also includes four cleansers, five packs
of face wipes, two toners, two masques and two eye
creams. But are you investing in the right stuff?
TIP
INTOLERANT SKIN
DULL SKIN
Elemis’ softening Pro-Collagen
Cleansing Balm, £39.50, speeds
up skin’s metabolism so it can hold
on to moisture.
Racinne Delicare Perfection Toner,
£26.99, is ultra-soothing and builds
up skin’s moisture barrier to help break
the cycle of inflammation.
Dr Barbara Sturm Face Day Cream,
£132, contains hero ingredient
purslane to protect the sensitive skin
cell membrane.
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HELLOFASHION.COM
Eau Thermale Avene Cleanance
Expert, £15, is a moisturiser
formulated to kill bacteria and regulate
skin sebum levels.
Top up on omega 3, 6 and 9 with
Udo’s Choice Ultimate Oil Blend,
£11.99. Mix two tablespoons into
smoothies, yoghurt or porridge.
CITY SKIN
TIP
You’re never too young for
anti-ageing products that
maintain firmness. As well
as products containing
retinol, which rallies
sluggish skin cells and
boosts collagen production,
stick with fatigue-fighting
ingredients.
The blend of souped-up peptides
in Benefit Puff Off, £22.50, promotes
collagen growth and smooths over
fine lines.
Sub your serum for Estée Lauder
Resilience Lift Restorative Oil, £50.
Plant-based oils (basically superfood
for skin) lock in skin moisture.
Ren Flash Rinse 1 Minute Facial,
£32, contains vitamin C to brighten
and firm up skin. Use twice a week
after your regular cleanser.
More potent than most over-the-counter
retinol products, use Paula’s Choice
Clinical 1% Retinol Treatment,
£51.50, at night.
SPF is a prerequisite, while
everything else is
damage-limitation. As well
as brightening antioxidants
and light-diffusing
formulas, scan product
labels for ingredients that
encourage cell turnover.
Time Bomb Black Ops Dark Circle
Rescue, £36, lightens bruise-like
circles and strengthens translucent skin
for bright, wide-awake eyes.
Philosophy No Reason To Hide
Multi-Imperfection Transforming
Serum, £48, breaks up melanin to
stop dark spots forming.
SkinCeuticals Brightening UV Defense
SPF 30, £31, delivers practically
impenetrable protection from long and
short ultraviolet rays.
Aveda Botanical Kinetics Purifying
Crème Cleanser, £17, contains
hydrating jojoba and coconut oil, so
skin is left squeaky clean, but not tight.
Indie Lee Blemish Lotion, £18,
contains salicylic acid, mineral clay to
draw out toxins and camphor to tackle
redness and inflammation.
TIP
Look out for products
containing vitamin C,
which fends off free
radicals and can
increase the
effectiveness of sun
screen. An enzyme peel
will give dead skin cells
short shrift, too.
As well as targeting discolouration,
Murad Instant Radiance Eye Cream,
£49.50, kickstarts
collagen production.
SLUGGISH SKIN
TIP
UNEVEN SKIN
Elethea Pure Balancing Cleanser,
£36, contains antioxidant powerhouse
baobab extract and alpha hydroxy
acids to supercharge skin cell renewal.
Use an exfoliating toner, such as
Biologique Recherche Lotion P50,
£52, as a pore-cleansing polish (don’t
be put off by initial tingling).
Substitute exfoliants (such
as alpha or beta hydroxy
acids) for hydrating
cleansers, and feed skin
with strengthening
ingredients (purslane is
particularly hardworking) and essential
fatty acids.
SOURCE: SUPERDRUG SURVEY, MAY 2014
Organic Surge’s creamy Brightening
Hot Cloth Cleanser, £13.95, is as
effective at cutting through make-up as
a sudsy wash, without stripping skin.
Reset skin’s PH level and minimise the
scale of breakouts with Alpha H
Balancing Cleanser, £25, which also
contains aloe vera.
La Roche-Posay Pigmentclar Day
Care SPF 30, £26, has an antiadhesive texture to stop pollution
particles sticking to skin.
Antioxidant-rich Codage Masque
Purifiant, £42, minimises the
appearance of pores. It contains a
glow-giving peel to energise cells, too.
TIP
To lubricate skin and bolster
the lipid barrier, apply
products that are easily
absorbed, like slippery
concentrates and oils
(which have a low
molecular weight so sink
into skin in seconds).
Add two drops of Vichy Neovadiol
Magistral Elixir, £29.75, to your
moisturiser, or apply on its own to
replenish skin with essential lipids.
The Body Shop Drops Of Youth
Bouncy Sleeping Mask, £22,
saturates the dermis with hyaluronic
acid and seals in other skin products.
Make-up artist favourite Embryolisse
Laboratories Lait-Crème Concentre,
£20, is packed full of vitamins and
plumps up skin, instantly.
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HFM SKINSPECIAL
BE S T FOR DUL L SK IN
THE FIX-IT
FAC I A L S
Take a hands-on approach to unsettled
skin with one of these splurge-worthy
treatments. Road-tested by Team HFM...
B E S T FOR
MOODY S K I N
BEST F O R
INTOLERANT SKIN
TREATMENT Dr Sturm
Molecular Facial, from £134
at The Dorchester Spa, London
TESTER Juliet Herd, editor
VERDICT “According to
the Skin Glossary on page 98,
my skin is textbook ‘intolerant’,
long-haul flights, late nights,
even a cold snap can set off
flushing or a rash of rough,
under-the-surface pimples.
Cue cosmetic
dermatologist
Dr Barbara Sturm
(Kylie and Kim
Kardashian are
fans of her skincare). Sturm (pictured, left) says a
daily assault of super-strength anti-ageing
products has wreaked havoc with my
complexion, as when skin is flooded by
formulas containing mineral oils and
unnecessary preservatives, it can’t take on
adequate nutrients and moisture. The treatment
starts with microdermabrasion, then comes
mesotherapy, where hyaluronic acid (a
hydrating molecule) and purslane (an
antioxidant) are delivered directly to skin cells
by micro-injections. Next is an antiinflammatory aloe vera mask and LED colour
light therapy to repair damaged cells. Dr Sturm
also offers to draw clients’ blood to make her
cult MC1 Cream (£650) – proteins harvested
from blood cells supercharge skin’s own
Dr Barbara
healing mechanism. Immediately after my
Sturm
facial, it felt like I’d acquired brand new
Hyaluronic Acid
Ampoules,
swathes of baby-soft skin, my cheeks were
£132 for seven
particularly plumped up. Several weeks on, my
skin is noticeably more resilient.”
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BEST FOR
CITY S K IN
TREATMENT Crystal Clear Cryo Oxygen
Microchannelling Collagen Induction Therapy
(COMIT), £75 a session (available nationwide)
TESTER Jill Wanless, deputy editor
VERDICT “I live in London and it shows up on
my skin. Congested pores, a sallow, oxygenstarved complexion and patches of dryness give
away my postcode, apparently. Think of these
high-tech COMIT treatments as an intravenous
vitamin infusion for your face. Cold oxygen is
pushed into skin (at the deepest level of the
epidermis where ageing begins) to energise
sluggish cells. Then a microchannelling roller
creates hundreds of microscopic channels, forming
direct pathways for a brightening vitamin C
treatment. The procedure is only mildly
uncomfortable, a tingling sensation really, and the
results are immediate; the sort of spotless, dewy
complexion that prompted my colleagues to
comment: ‘Did you go away for the weekend?’”
TREATMENT Dr Rabia Skin Detox Facial,
£250 (60 minutes) at Grace Belgravia, London
TESTER Charlotte Jolly, beauty director
VERDICT “My skin has developed a split
personality. At 29, I’m dealing with acne for the first
time in my life (not cystic pimples, stubborn red
bumps – and breakouts concentrated along my
jawline). I’ve also noticed my skin is prone to
sensitivity (no obvious triggers) and patches of
dryness (everywhere). Quick to pinpoint fluctuating
hormone levels as the cause, Dr Rabia devises a
tailor-made skin detox. The treatment includes a
slightly-acidic cleanse (to bring down the PH of my
skin and inhibit bacterial growth), a gentle
exfoliating peel mask (to dissolve the bonds that hold
dead skin cells together) and the application of a
customised serum, blended on site, containing
niacinamide (vitamin B3) to even out tone and
texture. It’s definitely helped reconcile the two sides
to my skin; acne hotspots have shrunk (still sporting
a few pimples around my mouth, but they’re not as
noticeable) and dryness has disappeared.”
TREATMENT Debbie Thomas DNA 3D Skin Tightening
Facial, from £345 (60 minutes) at Debbie Thomas Collective,
Hari’s, 305 Brompton Road, London TESTER Gabriella Pisani, beauty writer
VERDICT “A lack of volume is my skin concern, contours that
lack definition, once-faint lines burrowing deeper into my
forehead and creases creeping out from the corner of each eye.
Tech savvy Debbie Thomas (her office has more switches than
any facialist I know) is the first in the UK to offer intra-oral (inside
the mouth) laser skin
Superfacialist
tightening. Sounds torturous,
Debbie Thomas
but it’s really not, and talk
begins each
treatment with a
about instant gratification – my
jawline looked noticeably
sharper. Debbie ran the
collagen-stirring Dual Yellow
Laser and the ‘Smooth’ mode
Erbium laser over my face and
neck, zapping damaged skin
cells. The latter feels like tiny
elastic bands being flicked
against your skin, uncomfy but
bearable. The result? Plumper
skin, albeit slightly red for a
day. And lines and creases
appear significantly
reduced. Impressive.”
Aromessence
Marjolaine
Nourishing
Serum, £44,
Decléor
BEST FOR UNEVEN SKIN
TREATMENT Dermalogica Biosurface Peel, £80,
available nationwide
TESTER Alex Light, online editor
VERDICT “My patches of pigmentation are dark enough to
be distracting and I’ve started using a foundation with extra
coverage. A laissez faire attitude to SPF is to blame. Uninclined
to schedule in recovery time post appointment, I’ve steered clear
of chemical peels up until now, but Dermalogica’s new offering
promises little-to-no face flaking. Instead of abrasive single acid
solutions, the topical treatments for this peel are formulated with
a low PH to minimise irritation. Salicylic acid loosens keratin
bonds, creating a burst of exfoliation, and lactic acid energises
skin cells. My facialist explains there’s also a final ‘De-celerator’
step that slows down exfoliating activity, neutralises acids and
soothes the epidermis. After session four I’ve ditched my
foundation for a semi-sheer tinted moisturiser.”
B E S T F OR
SLUG G I SH
SKIN
Marjolaine
Nourishing
Night Balm,
£32.50,
Decléor
TREATMENT
Decléor Divine Nutrition,
£75 (1 hour 15 minutes),
available nationwide
TESTER Dawn Emery,
features director
VERDICT “Dry, taut
and flaky skin is never a
good look... and
apparently mine is caused by a slow skin
metabolism. My facialist explains that my
skin has an oil deficit and therefore lacks
protective lipids. She can tell by pressing
down on my cheek – if it doesn’t bounce
back the skin is not producing enough
sebum. This treatment is super-relaxing and
includes three facial massages, using AromaPressure and Aroma-Drainage techniques,
and skin is drenched in a blend of active
ingredients including marjoram essential oil
– a molecule that stimulates lipid production,
strengthens the skin’s barrier function and
boosts hydration. Oils are also more
penetrative than creams. The treatment
finishes with a nutrition-packed face mask.
I emerged feeling protected and wrappedup against the dry, winter weather. While
no quick fix, weeks later my skin still feels
soft, subtle and more radiant. I’m also a
facial oil convert.”
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