Photo: Lisa Wilder
EDITOR’S PICK: Red Lentil
D
espite its second-rate baseball team and overrated Ivy
League school, Boston is undeniably a great town for
dining. Now New Haven is benefiting from Beantown talent
with the opening of Red Lentil on the ground floor of the
Temple Street garage. In a space that has seen a succession of
interesting but short-lived eateries, Red Lentil deserves to thrive
based on its top-notch vegetarian fare.
Red Lentil chef
Pankaj Pradhan with
a butternut squash
polenta.
Boston Chef Pankaj Pradhan has taken his Hub restaurant’s
name, menu and concept in total to his Elm City eatery.
With bright green walls heralding the plant-based feast to come,
Red Lentil improves on its predecessors in the space with a
brighter and more inviting ambiance. Servers are eager and
personable, and orders are filled with big-city efficiency, even as
a reggae-heavy soundtrack sets a mellow mood.
We started with seared strips of seitan, a veggie staple made
from wheat with a meaty taste and texture. Each strip was
salty and savory on its own, but a dip in the zesty horseradish
dressing sent the dish into the flavor stratosphere while clearing
the sinuses. Beet and potato pancakes were earthy and satisfying
if a bit limp for someone expecting the crispness of a classic
latke. Appetizers were all under $10 and servings were generous
considering the “small-plates” portion shrinkage found at many
new eateries.
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We’ve Moved
932 State St. (next to Humphrey St.)
New Haven, CT 203.787.0227
Come see our new location.
Same great food & original cocktails.
Our meticulously composed small
plates provide our guests with
a premier dining experience while
offering seasonal American selections
in the heart of New Haven
Our signature cocktails
incorporate fresh fruits, herbs, house
made infusions and modern cooking
techniques all for the sake
of deliciousness.
Our guests can also enjoy an
extensive wine list with over 27 wines
by the glass, specialty beers and
a vast selection of spirits.
new haven
43
Schools
Continued from 19
daily work and interactions,”
Armstrong says. “This is why
Cold Spring only holds tours
when school is in session.”
Diversity in many forms,
including socioeconomic
diversity, is essential to Cold
Spring School. Recognizing
that some families may not
have the means to explore
independent school options,
Armstrong says Cold Spring
School remains committed
to enrolling children from
a broad spectrum of economic
backgrounds with both needbased financial assistance and
payment-plan options. Fully a
third of current Cold Spring
students receive some degree
of financial assistance that
varies from ten to 90 percent
of tuition. Cold Spring School
offers financial aid to qualified
students on the basis of
demonstrated financial need
and the availability of funds.
distinctive
Red Lentil
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A sip of one of Red Lentil’s
array of complex fruit and
vegetable smoothies was
a welcome palate-cleanser,
with the Mustang adding the
tang of cranberry and ginger
to the richness of banana.
Nonalcoholic ginger beer was
the strongest libation on offer
during a recent visit.
Ever trendy, this diner
sampled a gluten-free pizza
as an entrée, wondering how
the chef could create a crust
without the protein that gives
a pie its toothsome texture.
Turns out the gluten-free
variation is more like a crisp
cracker, but with a nice char
and perfectly proportioned
toppings, I hardly missed the
gluten. Every element of the
eggplant, pepper and basil pie
tasted fresh from the farmer’s
market. At $12, the pizza was
ample for one.
My companion ordered a $14
“meatless loaf” made of millet,
a classic hippie grain with
the heroic ability to retain
its blandness in almost every
preparation I’ve attempted.
Arriving at the table, the
brownish platter didn’t look
promising, but Chef Pradhan
delivered by dialing up the
Ethiopian spices and herbs
like marjoram and sage to
turbo-charge the grain.
We barely had room, but had
to try the chocolate mousse
pie, dense and rich and freshtasting with a crunchy fruitand-nut crust for contrast.
With every course scoring
on flavor, portion size and
heartiness, you’d be hard
pressed to find a vegetarian
restaurant in the area that
can provide such a satisfying
and interesting meal at the
price. Red Lentil is also open
for lunch and is considering
a buffet special to add to
downtown’s midday options.
This new restaurant’s upscale
and artful cuisine is worth a
trip to Temple Street at any
time of day.
Red Lentil Vegetarian & Vegan
Restaurant, 25 Temple St., New
Haven (203-891-7105).
Create the event of
your dreams with a
venue that will have
your guests raving for
years to follow.
“Everything was
beautifully handled
from start to finish
and the food…
superb”
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