Western Reserve Model Yacht Club
Finishing Your Soling One Meter
Introduction: The Soling One Meter (and other polystyrene boats) can be a real challenge to paint. If this
is your first Soling, you should be aware of some things that might make the finishing process a little easier.
Polystyrene plastic is an “oily” material. It does not take paint too easily, and only by using good
preparation techniques will you be happy with the results. It is important to (a) avoid using harsh solvents
like lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK, etc., and (b) keep the boat away from excessive heat. Safe cleaning of
the hull is possible using soap and water, mineral spirits, or alcohol.
There are several things to consider before or when painting your new Soling One Meter.
First- the reasons for painting are to distinguish your boat from others on the water, or because you
simply LIKE a certain color, and/ or to protect your boat from deterioration from UV rays.
UV Deterioration:
Under exposure to ultra-violet rays from the sun or other sources, polystyrene plastic essentially dries out,
and microscopic "crazing" occurs. Very small cracks develop and the plastic is no longer pliable. Once the
plastic is brittle, every stress can result in a tear and need for frequent repairs. Usually the deck is the first
place you notice the boat becoming brittle - often when the cockpit “coaming” cracks, then cracks appear
around the mast step.
This occurs very slowly- as evidenced by the fact that many unpainted Solings last for years before
becoming excessively brittle. But painted Solings also crack as they age- so UV deterioration may not be
the only issue after all.
We generally don't keep the same boat for 12- 15 years anyway, and Solings are relatively inexpensive kits.
So, as your Soling begins to crack (usually the deck first), you could consider replacing the deck or later the
hull (Victor sells S1M "Lower Boat Kits"), which would save your rig and hardware.
Solutions to lengthen the life of your boat
Paint the boat: Lighter colors reflect the UV rays better, so we would expect that light colors would better
protect the polystyrene than a red, black, or green for example. Even painting first with a white, then overcoating with your other color is better than simply using the color coat alone. The white will still reflect,
even under another color.
3 or more coats of any paint is recommended for better UV protection.
A clear UV-protecting coating may also help: Krylon Fusion Clear, Krylon Crystal Clear, and Rustoleum
Crystal Clear Enamel all provide UV protection.
One piece of advice- consider the possible UV deterioration before buying an OLD used Soling. There
will be some deterioration in all of them over time.
So, Finishing Your Soling- From simplest to most complex…
A. Simplest:
Of course, leaving the hull and deck “as is” (white styrene) is the easiest route to take. The
“plain” styrene hull looks pretty smooth either sanded with a progression of wet/dry sandpaper
grades (320, 600, 1000), or even just rubbed out using automotive rubbing compound. (There IS a
difference in rubbing compounds- 3M "Liquid Rubbing Compound for Light to Medium Scratches" 3M
PN 39002 is a great choice).
1. Over (a long) time, UV exposure will turn the white styrene sort of an yellowish off-white.
Actually this "patina" can be quite attractive (but hard to match for a repair). As discussed
above, UV embrittlement is also increased on unfinished plastic.
2. Add striping or decals: Put on accent stripes or a water line using striping tape. A plain
Soling can be dressed up with some graphics- thin decals or stickers, over-sprayed with
several coats of clear lacquer, sanded and polished.
3. Paint stripes or misted edges on your sails: use a fabric paint such as used for coloring
silk flowers- “Design-Master” is one, available at Michael’s, Pat Catan or JoAnn Fabrics. This
is the easiest way to sail a “plain, white Soling”, yet have it be easier to identify on the water.
B. Painting:
1. Single-color paint schemes: More and more Solings seem to be painted one color- hull and deck.
Some add accents by painting the hatch and lazarette a contrasting color. One color is a LOT
simpler to paint, and “hides” the deck flange very successfully. Besides, you won’t see a lot of fancy
paint work with the boat 50 yards out on the water anyway.
It can take a lot of work to get the deck smooth enough to really look good under paint, especially
dark colors. Many choose to not paint the decks of their Soling for these reasons, or paint the deck
with a flat or satin color to hide the imperfections.
You may want to consider just painting from
the waterline, slightly overlapping over on to
the deck- (essentially a wide stripe from the
waterline to just over the deck.)
Painting the hull color overlapping the edge
of the deck will hide the flange, and also hide
any excess glue or other imperfections in the
hull/deck joint. Then leave the rest of the
deck and the bottom as is- unpainted. This
minimizes the painting, yet LOOKS like a
fully painted boat.
The styrene under the waterline can be
buffed to a high gloss as a last step.
C. Paint Choices
Boat by Frankie Novak
Deck and hull, under waterline are
unpainted styrene.
Some Soling 1 Meter paint schemes:
Paint: There are many good paint choices. Always use the same brands of paint and primer, and
the same brands in two colors if using two colors. Never mix types, brands, or especially never
mix clear lacquer over enamel.
Paint Types:
1. Alkyd aerosols– general purpose (Rustoleum Rust Preventive Enamel or Krylon
Indoor-Outdoor ("5-Ball" ). Cans of enamel can be thinned, then airbrushed, or even
brush painted. Enamel is soft, and never gets as hard as some other paints, making it
easier to repair, and respond to buffing better, but enamel will scratch easier.
2. Enamel paint- available in pint cans. Generally NOT available in aerosols. These
are fine if thinned 10% with acetone and applied (believe or not) using a “foam
brush”. Enamels are not particularly glossy, but are also easy to repair.
3. Lacquer: We do not recommend lacquer because of its high cost, and its hazardous
fumes and flammability. Plan on 4 cans of the small, hobbyshop lacquers (Tamiya TS
Series) per boat. These are not widely available, but dry faster, harder, and glossier
than enamels.
4. Polyurethanes: Victor uses auto urethane paints (applied by a body shop) for their
factory boats. These include automotive basecoat/clear coat systems- 2-part paints
(plus a reducer for thinning). Polyurethanes are expensive, hard, very glossy, and
durable. They are also not widely available in small quantities. Curing time is fast - a
few minutes vs. several days for standard aerosol paints. But, urethanes are generally
not recommended for amateur use- they are hazardous (fumes and flammable). We do
not recommend them for S1M painting, unless you are an expert and have the right respiration
equipment. You might want to check with a local auto body shop- maybe they'll tag
your boat project on at the end of another job??
D. Paint Application Methods: most Solings are probably painted using aerosol cans. Some
painters also use spray equipment, such as an automotive sprayer or an airbrush, which atomize
the paint better than a spray can because they spray smaller droplets than do aerosol cans.
E. Which paint to use? Our recommended aerosol paints:
Brand
Type
Krylon Fusion
(Sherwin-Williams)
Rust-Oleum Protective
“Enamel” or
Rust-Oleum 2X Paint
plus Primer; Painter’s
Touch
Krylon “IndoorOutdoor Paint”
(“5-Ball”)
(Sherwin- Williams)
Paint for
plastics
Acrylic
Enamel
“acrylic
lacquerized
enamel”
Observations
High gloss, with a primer.
Quick dry – but 7+ day CURE.
Best valve (spray top) available.
Easy, seems (almost) foolproof.
Cleanup using mineral spirits.
Easy to repair scratches and
buff out using high-quality
rubbing compound. Prime
using their primer.
Forgiving; gloss is great, over a
light primer. Cleanup using
mineral spirits. Easy to repair
scratches and buff out. MANY
colors. Prime using 5-Ball
primer.
Manufacturer usage tips
Second coats within an hour,
recoat after a few minutes or
wait a week.
Second coats within an hour,
recoat after a few minutes or
wait 24 hours. Rust-Oleum
will not be fully cured for
over a month, and during
that time will scratch easily.
Second coats within an hour,
recoat after a few minutes or
any other time.
OK- bottom line- what do WE recommend??
1. Paint the boat vs. leaving it "plain". Even if you want an all-white boat- PAINT it white for
UV protection. For finishes:
a. For a High Gloss White: use 3 -4 coats white spray enamel- Krylon or Rustoleum.
b. A High Gloss Color: 2 thin coats Krylon White Primer, over-coated with 2 coats Krylon
color coat, then 3 - 4 coats Krylon clearcoat.
c. Option: clear coat for really high gloss: clear-coat using the same brand clear as the color
coat. Apply the clear coat as if it were additional coats of the color coat- so,
- mist color coat #1, 2 minutes later
- slightly heavier coat #2. IF you have good coverage- then clear coat # 1, and #2, etc. You may have to use several coats of clear to get the
high-gloss "wet look" you are looking for.
d. Medium Gloss color- 2 thin coats Krylon White Primer, over-coated with 3-4 coats Krylon
color coat.
e. "Satin" finish- Use 2 coats of white Rustoleum primer, then 2 coats Rustoleum color.
AFTER 3-4 weeks: wet-sand using 800 wet and dry paper.
*NOTE: When painting over a white undercoat (or white primer) with a color over-coat,
wait until the white coats are “dry to the touch”- about 45 minutes- 1 hour, before adding the color
coat. Don’t wait beyond an hour though- or you might have problems with the paint attacking the
earlier coats. Also, be sure and use LIGHT coats of the color coat so you don’t (example) spray red
over an uncured white- and get mottled pink!!
2. Preparation for painting- Use a sanding block for the first two sandings. Hand-sanding can
leave “grooves” and scratches. Use a sanding block, (sold in most hardware stores), or a piece of
½” thick rigid foam cut to size for your hand. Wood is not as good. 3M Sanding Pads are also
excellent, and will produce an even finish, fast.
3. Filler - single-part putty or glazing compound (epoxy is too hard for this application). Available at
auto stores- as body filler. Example- Bondo 1-part Glazing and Spot Putty – item no. 907 or
937 in 1.5 oz. tube -easy to sand. More durable is Bondo 2-part Glazing Putty no. 801. Both
will have to be painted over. Apply the filler using a flexible putty spreader.
4. Sandpaper- always use wet and dry sandpaper, except on wood. You will need 80-grit (for
removal of material), 320, 800, 1000, 1500 and perhaps 2000 grit. Two 8-1/2 X 11 pieces of each
should be enough. Use a small bucket, and add about 5 drops of dishwashing detergent to 2
gallons of water- it helps keep the sandpaper from loading up.
5. Primer- there is primer, and “Primer-filler”. Primer-filler is a high-build material that will better
fill fine scratches. Primer-filler is more useful. A white primer provides improved UV
protection even UNDER a color coat, and helps the color "pop".
Painting Steps:
Decide up front- are you looking for a functional boat, that looks good on the water, OR a show
piece?? You can make a case for either one. Of course, the boat IS going to be raced, bumped, and
banged around on the water. So- maybe it makes sense to make it look good- but not perfect.
But if you want perfect- you're going to have to work for it. Preparation of the surface is
THE most important thing!! If you want a finish that will be impressive and look professional, you
have to prep the hull and deck until it is perfect. There are no shortcuts!
Sand- Start the painting process by sanding areas with fillers (transom for example) using 100- then
320 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Sand the rest of the hull using 320 wet & dry paper to remove all the
mold release and wax, and any “high spots” in the hull. Wipe the hull down using mineral spirits
sprayed of light on a cloth or towel, not wet- “wet” will remove any primer.
Many will spray a light coat of white primer-filler at this point, to make the high and low spots more
obvious after several sandings, before final filling and sanding.
Fill- The combination of sanding the high spots and filling and sanding the low spots will
eventually yield a “fair” hull. Fill the low spots using putty, and re-sand the boat again with 600 wet
dry paper on a sanding block.
Continue to sand until all high areas are removed. You will sand almost ALL the primer off the hull,
each time. Low spots or hollows will show up as dark areas- fill again with glazing putty. Sand,
prime and repeat until the surface is perfect. After filling and sanding until you are satisfied with the
results, sand the surfaces smooth using 320 grit wet and dry paper. Wash with soap and water.
Prime: The “paint for plastics” paints say they do not need a primer. That is true- they will stick to
the plastic without a primer. But they will be far more glossy over a primer and it will take fewer
coats to cover, plus yield a better finish. (If you are using a white undercoat for UV protection, that
will also increase the gloss of the finish coat.) Use Krylon white primer for Krylon 5-Ball, RustOleum white Primer for Rust-Oleum or Painter’s Choice.
Wipe the hull using a clean cloth or paper towel and 91% rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol. Let dry.
Prime paint with a coat of primer and let dry overnight. Thin coat is all that is needed. It should
look smooth- almost like a satin paint.
Hand sand (no block) this time with 800 wet/dry paper. The boat is “smooth enough” when your
fingernail passing over an area cannot feel any imperfections. The purpose it to make the primer coat
as smooth as possible, yielding a super smooth final coat. Dampen a cloth with mineral spirits (NOT
“wet”- just damp) and wipe the surface clean of dust. Some next use a “tack cloth”, or even a
dampened (water) cloth to remove all lint and dust. Wipe the hull using a clean cloth or paper towel
and 91% rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol. Let dry thoroughly.
Painting: Wait at least a week!! The paint will not be cured for at least that long. Then, you are ready to
apply the color coat. Use quality masking tape (blue or green 3M) to mask off the deck, unless you plan to
paint it all one color anyway. Paint the hull with the boat upside down -keel up- then store the hull upside
down while the paint cures. Don't put it into a stand for at least 10 days- the lines of the stand will mark
the hull.
Paint the first LIGHT color coat. A LIGHT thin coat is merely a misting over the surface. “Thin”
means misting the paint on in successive layers- you can almost immediately put on additional coats- 1-2
minutes after painting. Spray with the can about 6” from the surface, and start beyond one end, and
spray past the other end before letting up on the spray button. Do not try and spray in circles or stopmake a smooth full pass over the boat. Also- do not try to get a “wet” look by spraying thick coats of
paint- you’ll get a run. Gloss comes with a white undercoat, followed by successive light color coats.
Paint the hull with at least 2 or more thin coats of paint, until the color is even in tone and all areas are
covered to your satisfaction. Light colors will take more coats than reds, black, dark blue, etc. Do not try
to “build up” the paint by painting thicker- you cannot “fill” sanding marks with paint- it will run.
If it does- DON’T try to fix it yet- let it thoroughly dry then sand it out.
Allow at least 3- 4 days curing time– up to 10 days for the paint to harden. Try and avoid handling it
during this time- even though it will “feel” dry- it isn’t. The longer you wait- the happier you’ll be. The
combination of a 9 lb. hull, tacky paint, and whatever the boat sits on in the stand will mar the paint job on
your hull, otherwise.
Clear-Coating: The clear coat is the same basic material as your color coats, just without pigment. Clear
has to go on as the final 3 or 4 coats over the color coat. So, just apply the clear coat as you have the color
coats- maybe allow 5 minutes (instead of 2 minutes) after the last color coat- then start with clear coats.
After the hull is thoroughly dry (7 – 10 days!!): lay the boat on a side, and re-mask (the hull this time),
and paint your deck (or your second color.). Painting with the hull on the side is better than in a stand- the
hull paint may still be soft and get marred by the stand.
Final Sanding: still 7- 10 days later: Many will simply leave the boat with its spray-painted gloss. But, to
get a super smooth finish, start with a light sanding using 1000 wet/dry paper, then use 1500, and finish off
with a 2000 paper.
Finally: use high-quality automotive rubbing then polishing compound then swirl remover to bring up
the gloss.
Summary of the steps to a perfect finish:
STEP
Initial sanding
Initial filling
USE
220 grit wet and dry sandpaper,
soap and water to clean the surface.
One-part filler
First sanding
320 grit wet and dry sandpaper
Initial white primer
White Primer or primer filler
Second sanding
Fill
Sand
320 grit wet and dry sandpaper
Bondo or other glazing putty.
600 wet and dry sandpaper
Undercoat w/ white primer
Paint with first color coat
White primer- same brand as color
2 – 3 light coats, about 2 minutes
between coats
600 wet and dry sandpaper
Sand any areas that wrinkled
or are not smooth
Final coat- paint with color
coat
Deck Painting- repeat
above steps for the deck.
Final finishing: Sand
Sand
Sand
Rub out
Polish
Buff
1 or 2 additional light coats, or 3 - 4
clear coats about 2 minutes
between coats
Same brand paint.
1000 wet and dry sandpaper
1500 wet and dry sandpaper
2000 wet and dry sandpaper
Rubbing Compound
NOTES
Remove grease and oils from the
surface
Fill obvious low spots (look just
ahead and to port of the rudder
hole for example)
Remove high spots, smooth your
filled spots (after cure)
Makes seeing “low” and “high”
spots easier
Sand almost all off.
Fill additional low spots.
Tack with alcohol-dampened cloth
or paper. Allow to dry 30 minutes
Allow to dry 45 minutes
Allow last coat to dry overnight.
Allow to dry 7 – 10 days.
Allow to dry 7 – 10 days.
(optional)
I like 3M- brand automotive
compounds
Polishing Compound
Soft cloth- t-shirt or microfiber.
A word about solvents: the polystyrene plastic parts of the Soling will be negatively affected by any
solvents besides mineral spirits, alcohol, water, or soap/ detergent. Particularly lacquer thinner,
acetone, and MEK will etch the surface, or make the plastic brittle.
If painting with standard aerosol paint (Rust-O-Leum, Fusion, Krylon 5-ball), use mineral spirits for
cleaning and removing paint without damage.
If painting with polyurethane, or lacquer, there is NO solvent that will be effective and not damage the
plastic. Mistakes have to be sanded off.
However, you can TRY alcohol to clean up many types of paint- it may work with certain paints.
Waterline drawing - here are the numbers: courtesy Frankie Novak
Horizontal reference point
Vertical measurement from deck “turn” to waterline
1. 4.25 “ from the stem measure down from the sheerline (edge of deck)- 99 mm. This is the point at which
the waterline begins on each side.
2. At the front of Keel (16” aft of the stem) measure down 77 mm.
3. Halfway between the 4.25 point and the front of the keel, measure down 84 mm.
4. At the rear of Keel measure down 69 mm.
5. At the rudder log (Shaft) measure down 58 mm
6. Bottom of Transom at underside- the lines should be about 1” apart at transom.