Almanac
the
RUINART
MARCH 2
013
CHALK TALK, REPORTS FROM THE
VINEYARDS AND ALL THINGS CHAMPAGNE
WINTER REFLECTIONS
FROM OUR CHEF DE CAVES:
Dear Ruinart friends,
Besides taking beautiful pictures of snowy landscapes
or pruning the vineyards, the winter is a great time
to spend thinking ahead. It starts with analyzing the
results of last harvest's experimentations and preparing
for 2013. Working on environmental issues which are
not only a LVMH priority, but a clear necessity in
today’s world, is a constant pratice. Ruinart has been
certified ISO 14001 since the summer of 2007, and the
environmentally friendly certification has been renewed
several times since. Those of you who have visited our
premises, such as the Ruinart challenge winners, know
how closely we work with the CIVC (Comité du Vin
de Champagne) on this topic. We like their global and
broad approach, not limited to spectacular decisions
but profound, well-thought and efficient solutions. Not
necessarily the easiest to put in place or to explain to
customers or journalists, but ones that will make a real
difference for a greener future.
The last weeks have also allowed us to re-taste the 2012
base wines and despite our initial positive appraisal of
the harvest, there won’t be a Dom Ruinart from that
vintage. We found some excellent pinots noirs (the
reds are particularly expressive), a few very good
chardonnays, but too few with breathtaking qualities
or enough potential to craft a Dom Ruinart. Not a
problem at all since we have a few vintages stashed
away in our Crayeres. The good news is that the NV’s
are really promising, despite the higher than normal
proportion of reserve wines in them. Since the ‘12 crop
was substantially smaller than the average, we had to
rely on our Réserve Individuelle to make up for the
difference and bottle what we’ll need in 3 years.
Michael Joylot
If some of you plan to be in Champagne in the coming
months, don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can
arrange a visit of our cellars. If a Ruinart winemaker is
around we’ll try to set up a base wine tasting from the
2012 harvest. It’s always an informative, learning yet
fun experience, and we’d love to share it with you!
Bubbly regards!
Frédéric Panaiotis
Chef de Caves
Michael Joylot
MICHELLE BERNSTEIN'S LA VIE EN CHAMPAGNE:
PAIRING A MICHY'S CLASSIC WITH RUINART BLANC DE BLANCS
Since drawing the national spotlight in the mid 1990’s, Chef Michelle
Bernstein has remained one of the region’s most well-respected
CROQUETAS WITH JAMON SERRANO
and successful chefs/restaurateurs.
AND GORGONZOLA DOLCE
A Miami native of Jewish and
Latin descent, this passionate culinaire has dazzled diners and critics
alike with her sublime cuisine and a personality as bright and vibrant
as the Florida sun.
“My food isn’t heavy handed or unnecessarily
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup yellow onion, minced
complicated,” says Bernstein, a James Beard Award winner (Best Chef
4 tablespoons flour
South 2008) and author of Cuisine a Latina . “You don’t need heavy
1 cup of milk
handed technique and over the top presentations to make a dish work.
Kosher salt
It’s about amazing ingredients, layered flavors and simplicity. My style
of cooking is inspired by my own food memories and it’s the simple,
soulful cooking that stays that I remember from my travels. I cook the
food I love and I think that love translates to the diners.”
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup Gorgonzola dolce cheese
1/4 pound of Jamon Serrano, diced very fine
(best if you have your butcher slice it
very thin then dice it from there)
Ruinart recently named Michelle as one of our Chef Ambassadors.
3 eggs, beaten
Not only do we love her culinary style and aesthetic, she has been a
2 cups of bread crumbs
(Japanese or regular, no flavor)
Ruinart fan for a long time. In fact, her husband gifted her with a bottle
of Blanc de Blancs to celebrate the opening of Michy’s. But that’s not
the only time she pops bottles. She has an approach to Champagne we
Vegetable oil for frying
can really get behind. “You know, I think it’s so silly [that] Champagne
should just be opened at the beginning of a celebration or dinner. It
Preparation:
goes with all of it, and should go out through the course of a meal. I’m
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan on medium low heat and cook the onions until transparent.
not a believer that Champagne should be forgotten about after the 1st
With a wooden spoon, stir in the flour and cook it for 1 minute. Whisk in the milk. Cook, stirring
course.” Now that is a chef after our own hearts!
constantly, until the sauce thickens, cook another 15-20 minutes, stirring constantly. Season
the mixture with salt and pepper. Shut off the heat and fold in the cheese and Jamon Serrano.
Spread the mixture onto a large baking sheet. Refrigerate until solid.
Place the eggs in one bowl, the bread crumbs in another. Form the chilled mixture into little
1 inch round balls or 2 inch long cylinders. Dip each croqueta into the bread crumbs, then in
beaten egg, then in bread crumbs again, making sure that they are well covered. Place on a
clean baking sheet lined with parchment paper after breading. Allow to chill for 1 hour in the
refrigerator.
Heat the vegetable oil in deep frying pan to 350F and fry the coquetas a few at a time, until
golden, about 3 minutes. Remove and place on paper towels to drain. Serve with your favorite
marmalade and a glass of Ruinart, everything works deliciously.
“TO ME, THIS BOTTLE REPRESENTS NOT ONLY A CELEBRATION
BECAUSE OF HOW BEAUTIFUL IT IS, BUT ALSO FINESSE AND
REFINEMENT. IT’S THE WAY CHAMPAGNE SHOULD LOOK AND
HOW IT SHOULD TASTE.” – MICHELLE BERNSTEIN
CIVC AND SUSTAINABILITY:
LEADING THE WAY FOR A GREENER CHAMPAGNE
The CIVC is a trade organization that was established to govern the
common interests of everyone in the Champagne industry. It was
founded in 1941 and is generally regarded as one of the most complete
and comprehensive bureaus anywhere. They work on many levels,
whether it’s growing ancient and obscure varieties in their experimental
vineyards, testing new equipment, or educating people on the greatest
sparkling wine region in the world. However, some might argue that their
most important role is their international leadership in environmental
preservation within a wine region. Ruinart’s very own Chef de Caves,
Frédéric Panaiotis worked a total of five years at the CIVC. Ruinart is
also part of the Moët Hennessy Research and Development team, which
works very closely with the CIVC in developing new methods in viticulture
and winemaking.
With Earth Day approaching in a few months, it’s important to take a
moment to think about the future and the impact of all wine regions on
the planet. In 2002, the CIVC embarked upon a major environmental
audit to analyze what could be done to reduce the carbon footprint of
the region. Now, ten years later, it’s more relevant than ever. The world
is starting to take the shifting climate very seriously. New Yorkers, who
have always been relatively safe from natural disasters, were hit with the
biggest hurricane the area has ever seen. This might only be a drop in the
bucket, but it’s gotten the attention of more than one politician. It’s time
for everyone to start doing their part. The forward thinking of the CIVC
has led to many innovative steps towards a more sustainable region.
A more recent innovation was the new bottle design. Weighing in merely 2 ounces lighter, this small step
reduced the region's CO2 output by 8,000 metric tons. That is the equivalent of the annual emissions
of 4,000 cars. The CIVC also spearheaded an initiative to reduce woody biomass and wastewater from
winemaking production.
In 2011, the region launched an appellation-wide program to transform the 150,000 metric tons of wood
waste generated from vineyard pruning into energy, reducing pollution and helping replace fossil fuels used
in wine production with a renewable source of energy. Through this BIOVIVE (Biomasse Viticole) initiative,
the Champagne region is working with local utilities to cut the current carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions by
10,000 metric tons per year, the equivalent of taking 5,000 vehicles off the road.(1)
Another way they are working towards a brighter future is with a vineyard practice
called ‘Sexual Confusion’. You can laugh if you want, but this is a serious way to protect
the grapes without resorting to pesticides. It targets two types of moths, Eudemis
and Cochylis. The moths are not directly responsible for the damage but their larvae/
caterpillars are. In fact, there can be two or three generations in a vineyard growing
cycle. They feed on young berries and puncture the skin which allows Botrytis to "enter" with no resistance.
The idea is to go to the root of the problem, and prevent the moths from laying eggs in the first place. By
saturating the air with the pheromones the females produce, creating a sensory overload for the males. They
become extremely confused and are unable find the females to mate with. This is 100% safe for other species
and has been approved for organic farming. This is a brilliant alternative that works without fail, as long as
large areas are covered. This means that land owners, growers and Maisons, need to work together on the
scale of a village or several villages. What better reason for unification?
“Champagne only comes from Champagne. The distinctive land and climate of Champagne cannot be
replicated elsewhere and the people of Champagne understand that they must be protected to preserve the
region’s centuries-old wine-making tradition,” said Sam Heitner, director of the Champagne Bureau, the U.S.
representative of the CIVC.
We couldn’t agree more.
(1) CIVC Earth day press release, 2011
THE CIVC AND THEIR
EXPERIMENTAL VINEYARDS.
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE CIVC
TÊTE-À-TÊTE WITH NICO SNYMAN
With 12 years of hospitality and wine experience, it’s no surprise that Nico was one of the five winners of our Sommelier Challenge
in 2012. After beginning his career in Australia, he proceeded to established himself as a leading sommelier in Edinburgh, Scotland,
Perth and Melbourne in Australia, and on to Montréal. He is also the founder of his own wine consulting business, NJS | WINE. In
2011, Nico took a position in the prestigious Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas. Nico currently holds the title of Advanced Level sommelier
through the Court of Master Sommeliers, and is preparing for the Master Level examination in 2013. We love his passion and
dedication to wine, and wanted to share some of his thoughts on Champagne with you.
How did you first discover Ruinart Champagne?
Blancs (at times a reductive quality) that works so well with
whether the general public necessarily understands the
I’ve known of Champagne Ruinart for many years, but
delicate shellfish; oysters, scallop ceviche and seafood
2nd style, but to a Sommelier it’s really great to see the
when we were pouring the Blancs de Blancs NV by the
crudos are great examples when the food is prepared in a
differing styles.
glass at Le Cirque I had the chance to truly experience it
such a way to express the purity of the ingredients.
on many occasions.
How do you approach Champagne education?
I could go on about the varying styles of Champagne, for
I think this may relate a little to the question regarding
What is it about Champagne that you find so appealing?
example the brioche notes that work well with delicate
transparency in Champagne. Speaking from the Las Vegas
The versatility, there has been many a time when
tempura dishes, but I believe there is a unique quality in
point of view, it’s a slow process, I think if we can showcase
Champagne has been the main focus of an evening or
the 1st example that isn’t found in too many styles of wine.
Champagnes that are produced in various styles and of
meal, sometimes the complexity of certain Champagnes is
all that’s required.
What is the key to a successful food
and Champagne pairing?
Do you think there should be more
transparency in Champagne?
This is definitely a great question; I believe that we require
production scale we will be heading in the right direction.
If you could capture the emotion of Champagne in one
word, what would it be?
many different expressions and styles of Champagne, from
“Celebration”, but if I could buy 2 more words I’d make it
Salinity is a character that I sometimes like to address, there
those that are manipulated to the ones of Zero Dosage,
“Celebration of life”.
is a beautiful expression in low dosage, high acid Blanc de
[both expressions] of varietal and place. I don’t know
BASEL AND RUINART GO TO THE BEACH
For the 3rd year in a row, Ruinart continued the tradition of being the official Champagne sponsor of Art Basel Miami Beach. This prestigious art event caters to the most discriminating
collectors and draws a crowd of over 55,000 people from across the globe. The most world renowned artists and galleries gather to sell, celebrate and of course, drink Ruinart Champagne.
Each year, Ruinart cultivates a different collaboration with a cutting edge contemporary artist. This year, we celebrated our limited edition Miroir ice bucket by Hervé Van der Straeten, and
transformed the Collector’s Lounge to look like the inside of the luminous, Christofle crafted piece.
RUINART FLOWS AT THE
SANTA FE WINE AND CHILI FIESTA!
This past September, we had the chance to be part of the Santa Fe Wine and Chili Festival. With endless mountains cutting across
the skyline and an abundance of turquoise, taxidermy and fringe, it may not be one’s first thought for a food and wine festival. But
take a closer look and you’ll see a wonderfully diverse town, with a colorful array of locals and part-time residents. There are a dozens
of fantastic restaurants that boast traditional regional cuisine, as well as more elegant international styles of dining. The wine lists are
concise, but thoughtful and represent regions both classic and esoteric alike.
The SFWCF is a great way for this desert gem to showcase its great culinary talents and local charm to a broad audience. A large
majority of the party-goers are from out of town, and fly in just for this event. Over 100 wineries from around the world were in
attendance, hosting dinners and seminars for the savvy crowd. Ruinart was the talk of the town with a unique cheese and Champagne
seminar led by renowned cheese expert Laura Werlin, master sommelier Tim Gaiser, and Ruinart brand ambassador, Lacey Burke. The
tasting featured the entire Ruinart range, including the 2002 and 1998 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, and the 1996 Dom Ruinart Rosé
1996. The crowd was surprised and delighted at how beautifully the Champagnes paired with ten different cheeses. The panel also
discussed alternate food pairings, debunked myths and explained the intricate process of Champagne making.
THE RUINART SOMMELIER CHALLENGE 2013
WIN THE W INE TRIP OF A LIFE T I M E
SAVE THE DATE FOR THE CITY NEAR YOU!
The blind tasting challenge is open to all sommeliers currently working in a restaurant or hotel, and will be followed by a lecture
curated by Frédéric Paniotis, Ruinart’s Chef de Caves, and a Champagne lunch.
Five talented winners from each city will be sent to Champagne and Paris on an all-expenses paid three day trip including a tasting of rare vintages of Dom
Ruinart, a tour of the historic Ruinart chalk caves and once in a lifetime culinary experiences at some of the best restaurants in Reims and Paris! All guided
by the Chef de Cave, Frédéric Panaiotis.
PLEASE VISIT THE GUILD OF SOMMELIER’S WEBSITE OR THE LINK BELOW TO GET MORE INFORMATION AND SIGN UP!
WWW.GUILDSOMM.COM - http://www.quia.com/sv/607319.html
APRIL 3RD: NAPA VALLEY | APRIL 8TH: LAS VEGAS
MAY 13TH: CHICAGO | MAY 14TH: NEW YORK | MAY 15TH: MIAMI
WEBSITE LINKS:
CONTACT US:
For more information visit:
www.ruinart.com
To find out where you can purchase Ruinart visit:
www.ruinart.com/us/store-locator/
If you have any queries please contact:
Lacey Burke - Brand Ambassador
[email protected]
212.251.8404
www.ruinart.com
Champagne © 2013 Imported by Moët Hennessy USA, Inc., New York, NY. Drink responsibly.