ABSTRACT PALM BUTTER PALM BUTTER is protected by two of Kalichem’s patents and finds the rationale for its use in cosmetics because: • It has an original and excellent melting point. First pressed ELAEIS GUINEENSIS fruit oil • The molecular structure and the combination of the fatty acids contained in its triglyceric molecules make Palm Butter particularly stable and eudermic. • Stability is naturally improved by natural antioxidants, including the well known Squalene. • Beta Carotene and Vitamin E provide Palm Butter with excellent anti-aging properties and radical scavenger action. • Palm Butter’s cosmetic claim has a wide range applicable to all age targets, sex and issues. • Palm Butter has already been employed in the formulation of many cosmetic bases: such cosmetic bases have been tested for stability, in-vitro cytotoxicity (100% negative) and skin effectiveness by means of in vivo and in vitro tests. In conclusion, it is possible to assert that the skin treated with Palm Butter as a cosmetic ingredient improves its wellness and reactivity against external agents, gaining youth, density and beauty. We can also assert that Palm Butter provides the skin with an excellently structured hydrolipidic layer and with an improved antioxidant defensive system, in that it is better irrorated from the dermic area. The use of Palm Butter as a cosmetic ingredient leaves the skin visibly more tonic, younger and healthier, due to a better cellular activity and dermal biochemistry. It is thus indicated for all kinds of cosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations and for all ages as an active and effective skin defence system. Palm Butter INCI NAME Elaesis Guineensis Oil ORGANOLECTIC Colour: Odour: Appearance: Yellow-orange versus reddish Characteristic Soft butter mass CHEMICAL-PHYSICAL Flow point °C: Jodio’s number gl2/100g: 33 - 37 48 - 56 Head Office and Production: Via G. Pastore,1 25082 Botticino Sera (BS) ITALIA Tel: +39.030.2693532 Fax: +39.030.2193581 e-mail: [email protected] www.kalichem.it Head Office and Production: Via G. Pastore,1 25082 Botticino Sera (BS) ITALIA Tel: +39.030.2693532 Fax: +39.030.2193581 e-mail: [email protected] www.kalichem.it A new lipid active ingredient and innovative matrix for eudermic emulsion with enhanced cosmeceutical activity PATENDED INGREDIENT PATENDED INGREDIENT Palm Butter marketing claim: Primary functional base-ingredient composed of functional lipid compounds It must be highlighted that PALM BUTTER contains, in addition to the tryglicerid fraction, some valuable and very effective compounds for the biochemistry of the skin PALM BUTTER: CHEMICAL STRUCTURE AND PHYSICAL-CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF MECHANICALLY PROCESSED PALM OIL Non-tryglicerid compounds content and percentage Palm Butter is extracted from the red-yellow mesocarp of the Elaeis Guineensis fruit. It contains 45/50% of oil and has consistancy like soft butter at room temperature. Component Fatty acids composition comparison between palm butter and other oils Fatty acid Red Palm Caproic 6:0 Palm kernel 0,2 Coconut Soybean Groundnuts Cotton seed Corn 3,3 8 Capric 10 3,5 6,4 48,5 Myristic 14:0 1,1 16,3 17,6 0,1 0,1 0,8 0,8 Trace Palmitic 16:0 44 8,5 8,4 11 11,6 23,7 12,2 6,5 Stearic 18:0 4,5 2,4 2,5 4 3,1 2,6 2,2 4,5 Oleic 18:1 39,2 15,4 6,5 23,4 48,5 18,4 27,5 21,1 Linoleic 18:2 10,1 2,4 1,5 53,2 31,4 53 57 66,2 Linoleic 18:3 0,4 0,1 0,9 Arachidic 20:0 0,1 0,1 1,5 0,3 0,1 0,3 Saturates 49,9 82,1 91,9 15,1 16,3 27,4 14,5 11,3 Monounsaturates 39,2 15,4 6,5 23,4 48,5 18,4 27,5 21,1 Polyunsaturates 10,5 2,4 1,5 61 31,4 53,1 57,9 66,2 7,8 This comparative chart shows that the composition of PALM BUTTER is special in that it provides unique chemical and physical characteristics. PALM BUTTER is in fact the best ingredient to employ in cosmetic formulations because: d. e. Head Office and Production: Via G. Pastore,1 25082 Botticino Sera (BS) ITALIA Tel: +39.030.2693532 Fax: +39.030.2193581 e-mail: [email protected] www.kalichem.it 36,2 -carotene 54,4 -carotene 3,3 Lycopene 3,8 Xanthophyils 2,2 y-tocopherols 47,8 b. c. -carotene -tocopherols 0,2 a. 500±700 Tocopherol: Lauric 12:0 mg/kg (in palm butter) Sunflower 0,5 Caprylic 8:0 % Carotenoids: It contains triglycerids with saturated fatty acids which allow the cream to obtain the consistency required without having to go through a process of hydrogenization; Stabilizes oxidation It contains triglycerids at melting point, with a relatively low presence of solid lipids at a temperature of 10 C°: this is of great advantage when formulating products with a wide range of consistencies It contains a high percentage of Linoleic Acid, which is an essential fatty acid precursor of a long chain of unsaturated fatty acids which are very important for the health and the integrity of the skin. It has a good and competitive price if compared with other mineral , animal or natural oils. 500±800 35 35 -tocopherols 10 + 10 -tocopherols Tocotrienols: 500±700 -Tocotrienols 30 - Tocotrienols 5 - Tocotrienols 50 - Tocotrienols 15 Sterols: ±300 Campesterol 21 Stigmasterols 21 -sitosterol 63 500±1000 Phosphatides: Total Alcohols ±800 Triterpenic alcohol 80 Aliphatic alcohol 20 Functional activity of primary non triglyceric compounds in PALM BUTTER CAROTENOIDS: they are powerful antioxidants; particularly for the presence among them of Beta carotene which is the most powerful natural antioxidant active on the skin. TOCOPHEROL and TOCOTRIENOL: Palm Butter, unlike other vegetal oils, has plenty of tocotrienols which have a more powerful anti-oxidant effect than tocopherols. The high concentration of Tocotrienols is, in fact, sufficient enough to guarantee the stability of the oily fraction and a good biological activity as “radical scavenger”. STEROLS: there is a high concentration of Squalene which is knowingly very active in the formation and in the maintenance of the hydrolipidic film on skin upper layers. Squalene is, in fact, a primary ingredient in the composition of the sebaceous gland secretion and of the lipid fraction in the corneous layer where it acts as an antioxidant in synergy with Vitamin E and Beta carotene. POLAR LIPIDS: Ceramides and their derivatives, are very important in the biochemistry of the epidermis and of the dermis, particularly for the eudermis. Furthermore they are very important for the good functionality of the upper hydrolipidic layer. Head Office and Production: Via G. Pastore,1 25082 Botticino Sera (BS) ITALIA Tel: +39.030.2693532 Fax: +39.030.2193581 e-mail: [email protected] www.kalichem.it
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