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As American as Apple
PIE
S THERE ANYTHING
more American than baseball, hot dogs, and Old Glory? Perhaps a freshly baked apple pie,
cooling on the kitchen counter. Throughout American history, apple pie has symbolized our
country’s pride and prosperity – not to mention domestic happiness.
Over the centuries, it has continued to be one of our most beloved
desserts despite changing palates and food trends.
Yes, America loves its apple pie, but it also loves just about every
other kind of pie, too. Strawberry rhubarb, blueberry, and key lime
are a few other popular choices that vie for our attention. Pumpkin
pie, pecan pie, and cherry pie are particularly close to our hearts over
the holidays. It just isn’t Thanksgiving without at least one slice of
pumpkin pie!
America’s love affair with pie goes back to the days when our
country was founded. Colonists planted apple seeds soon after
arriving to these shores and waited for the trees to grow and bear
fruit. Before long, there were hundreds and hundreds of apple trees.
Much of the fruit went to making cider, but some made it into
pies. The fruit replaced the more traditional meat pie filling, for a
decidedly sweeter treat.
According to the American Pie Council, the early colonists made
their pies in long and narrow pans and called them coffins. They didn’t
typically eat the crust—it was tough and tasteless and used primarily
P I E
to hold the delicious fillings. It wasn’t until
around the time of the American Revolution
that bakers started to focus on making this
pastry container flakier, more buttery, and
more delectable — and thankfully started to
use the term crust instead of coffin.
During those pioneer days, pie was a part
of almost every meal. Over time, it became a
centerpiece of family gatherings, community
celebrations, picnics, and other social
events. County fairs started to host
pie contests, with prizes for the
best pie. They weren’t very
different from the pie contests
that still happen every summer
at local fairs around the country.
Honored judges tasted every pie
that was entered in the contest and
selected a winner for a prize.
As settlers moved westward,
they spread their
love for pie, and over time, regional pie
variations developed. These were based on
differing preferences and on the availability
of local fruits and other ingredients.
Today, many states have different
signature pies: Mississippi
is known for its sweet potato
pie, Florida for key lime pie,
Vermont for maple cream pie,
Washington for ollaliberry pie,
Montana for huckleberry pie,
and so on.
During the Great Depression,
a wave of desperation era
pies started showing up on
kitchen counters throughout
the country. Bakers who
lacked access to
traditional pie
ingredients
created
what’s in a pie?
Some pies have names that leave you wondering
what’s in them. Here’s a short list of some old-fashioned
pies carrying mysterious names:
Shoo-fly Pie A supremely sweet pie made with molasses and
topped with sugary crumbs, shoo-fly pie is a traditional Pennsylvania
Dutch recipe. Its name resulted from how the sweet molasses attracted
flies that had to be shooed away from it.
Chess Pie A combination of eggs, sugar, and butter makes a custard-like
filling. The addition of cornmeal sets it apart from similar pies. The origins
of its name are unknown, but many theories persist.
Derby Pie Often served during the Kentucky Derby, this chocolate and pecan
pie often contains a little bourbon, too. The name is trademarked by the past
owners of Melrose Inn in Prospect, Kentucky, who created the pie in 1950.
Shepherd’s Pie Savory pies were popular long before sweet pies.
The bottom crust of this traditional savory pie holds a filling
of lamb and vegetables topped with potatoes.
Shaker Lemon A pie that includes the whole lemon,
rind and all, this pie was first made in the
Shaker religious communities of the Midwest.
Considered the more frugal
counterpart to lemon meringue
pie, which only uses lemon juice.
“make-do” pies with whatever ingredients
they could gather from the kitchen or
garden. If there were no apples, they might
use green tomatoes instead, or even crackers
(Ritz called this popular version “mock
apple pie”). No lemons for lemon meringue
pie? Then vinegar worked as a tart-tasting
stand-in. Buttermilk pie was made with a
simple combination of sugar, butter, eggs,
and inexpensive buttermilk.
In fact, besides fresh fruit, almost all pies
call for just a short list of pantry-available
ingredients. And they’re all pretty easy to
make as long as you have patience chill the
crust after rolling it out (it needs to be cool
so that it holds its shape in the oven). The
American expression, “as easy as pie”, came
into common usage around the turn of the
19th century and is still used today to describe
anything easy.
Nevertheless, many bakers approach piemaking with at least a bit of worry – fearing
of burned crusts, soggy bottoms, and runny
fillings. This could be part of the reason why
people bake far fewer pies than they used to.
Still, interest in pie hasn’t waned. Bookstores
shelves are stocked with dozens of books on
how to make the perfect pie. Bakeries are
experimenting with mini pies and glutenfree pies. And food trendspotters have
declared pies the new cupcakes.
Bakers should take a breath and relax:
nobody ever complains about homemade
pie, no matter what it looks like. And if
baking isn’t in the cards, then a visit to the
grocery store or local bakery for a storebaked is always a good move, too. Our
country’s forefathers and mothers would be
proud to see that pie still unites us and holds
a preeminent role on our dinner tables and in
our holiday traditions.
PIE STILL HOLDS
P I E
To many Americans, it just isn’t fall
without pumpkins. This includes not
only Jack-o-lanterns on front steps but
also pumpkin flavored coffee, pumpkin
scented candles, pumpkin doughnuts,
and, of course, pumpkin pie. Pumpkins
are truly an American symbol of the
harvest time of year: the pumpkin is native
to the continent of North America.
Pumpkins pie is also truly American dessert – it plays
a key role in our Pilgrim lore but it’s hardly ever found in other
parts of the world. While in reality this fragrant pie probably didn’t
appear on the very first Thanksgiving table in 1621, it didn’t take long.
Historians think that became a part of Thanksgiving just a few years later.
Today, almost every table in America includes a pumpkin pie in the
Thanksgiving feast. Despite the recent farm-to-table trend, even professional chefs
tend to agree the best place to get the pumpkin for pumpkin pie is from a can,
specifically a can of Libby’s.
An incredible 90% of the pumpkins grown in the United States grow on
5,000 acres of land within an 80-mile radius of Peoria, Illinois by farmers who
contract with Libby. They grow the company’s patented Dickinson pumpkins.
Dickinson pumpkins are smaller, squatter, meatier, heavier and sweeter pumpkins
than Halloween pumpkin.
The puree tastes creamier than that of most other varieties of pumpkins.
And Libby keeps things fresh, turning them into puree within 24 hours of leaving the
farm field, and adding nothing: no added salt, sugar, colorings, or preservatives.
During the harvest, Libby processes
500,000 pumpkins a day into cans at
its pumpkin factory in Morton,
Illinois, the so-called Pumpkin
Capital of the World.
Almost all of the pumpkin
puree you find in markets
throughout the world comes
from this factory.
For as much as most
chefs rely on Libby’s for
Thanksgiving baking, a
few have started to look
elsewhere for the star
ingredient: to butternut
squash. They explain the
switch by claiming that
while it’s highly similar to
pumpkin, they prefer it for its
rich, bright flavor, lovely color,
and smooth flesh. If you haven’t
tried butternut pie, try making
one for your next Thanksgiving
feast. There’s always room for
one more pie at the table.
SYMBOL OF FALL
Pumpkin Pie
CRUST
E
I
P
R
E
M
PRI
Some people buy pre-made pie crust
from the grocery store, but it’s so
easy to make that there’s really no
need. Plus, of course, it tastes much
better if you make it yourself.
Here are some helpful tips:
Use cold, firm butter but into chunks so that it
slowly releases steam as the pie bakes and
develops rich, delicate, flaky layers.
Keep other ingredients cold, too.
Always use ice water when mixing the
dough. Some bakers even put the flour
in the freezer for 30 minutes before making
dough. The cool temperatures help
minimize gluten development, which can
make crust rubbery instead of crisp.
Use just enough liquid. If more liquid is
needed than the recipe calls for, add it a
tiny bit at a time until the dough just holds
together when pressed between your fingers.
It will still look pretty shaggy.
Remember that kneading is for bread, not pie
crust! Handle it just enough to form a ball. It
should look like it’s barely holding together.
Let the dough rest after you mix it and before
you roll it out. Pat it into an even, circular disk,
wrap it in plastic, and refrigerate it for at least
30 minutes. Dough is easier to roll and handle
when its cold. Once you roll it out and place
it in the dish, it’s also a good idea to chill the
dough again. This helps it hold its shape and
bake evenly once you put it in the oven.
A PREEMINENT ROLE IN OUR HOLIDAY TRADITIONS.
P
BASIC PIE CRUST
2½ cups all-purpose flour
1½ sticks (¾ cup) cold unsalted butter,
cut into ½-inch cubes
¼ cup cold vegetable shortening
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
4 to 6 tablespoons ice water
Blend together flour, butter, shortening, and
salt in a bowl with your fingertips or pulse
in a food processor until most of mixture
resembles coarse meal and the rest in small
(roughly pea-size) lumps.
Drizzle 4 tablespoons ice water evenly over
and gently stir with a fork (or pulse in
processor)until incorporated.
Gently squeeze a small handful: It should
hold together without crumbling apart. If it
doesn’t, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time,
stirring (or pulsing) after each addition until
incorporated, continuing to test.
Turn dough out onto a work surface and divide
into 2 portions. With heel of your hand, smear
each portion once in a forward motion to help
distribute fat. Gather each portion of dough
and form it into a disk. Wrap disks separately
in wax paper or plastic wrap and chill until
firm, at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.
Makes enough for 2 single-crust (9-inch) pies
or one double-crust pie.
ONE-CRUST FRUIT PIE
Dough for a single-crust pie
¾ cup plus 1 teaspoon sugar
3 pounds peaches, seeded and
sliced (about 5 large or 8 small)
1 cup cherries, stones in or pitted
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed
lemon juice
Preheat oven to 400°F and butter
a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.
In a large bowl toss fruit with remaining
flour, ¾ cup sugar, and lemon juice, and then
place in the baking dish.
Put dough on a floured board or countertop
and sprinkle with more flour. Roll dough
into a 12-inch round and cut into 3-inch-wide
strips, then cut again crosswise into 4-inchlong pieces. Scatter pieces over fruit in an
overlapping pattern.
Brush top of dough lightly with water and
sprinkle with remaining tablespoon sugar.
Transfer to oven and bake until top is golden
brown and juices bubble, 35 to 45 minutes.
Transfer to a rack to cool. Serve warm or at
room temperature.
I
E
BUTTERNUT SQUASH PIE
Dough for a single-crust pie
1 butternut squash (about 3 pounds)
4 tablespoons butter, melted
3 large eggs
1 cup heavy cream
¾ cup dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons brandy
1 to 2 teaspoons ground ginger
1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
Pinch grated nutmeg
Pinch ground clove
½ teaspoon salt
Make butternut squash purée: peel, halve and
seed a 3-pound squash and cut flesh into 1½
-inch chunks. Coat with melted butter and
roast at 400°F, stirring occasionally, until the
squash is tender (30 to 45 minutes). Let cool,
then purée in a food processor.
Prepare pie crust: Preheat oven to 375°F. On
a lightly floured surface, roll out pie crust to a
12-inch circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate,
folding over any excess dough and crimping
edges. Prick crust all over with a fork and
then chill 30 minutes. Line inside of pie
with a piece of aluminium foil and fill with
dried beans or pie weights. Bake for 15
minutes; remove foil and weights and bake
until pale golden, 5 to 7 minutes more. Cool.
Assemble the pie: Reduce oven temperature
to 325°F. In a large bowl, whisk together the
butternut squash purée, eggs, cream, brown
sugar, brandy, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove,
and salt. Pour mixture into the cooled
pie shell. Transfer pie to a large baking sheet.
Bake until crust is golden and center
jiggles just slightly when shaken,
50 to 60 minutes. Cool completely
before serving.
CHERRY HAND PIES
Dough for a single-crust pie
2 cups cherries (1 lb.),
pitted and chopped
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons lemon zest
3 tablespoons corn starch
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 large egg, lightly beaten
In a medium saucepan combine cherries, ¼
cup sugar, and lemon zest. In a small bowl
whisk together lemon juice, corn starch, and
vanilla. Pour mixture over cherries and stir to
incorporate. Heat cherries over medium high
heat, stirring frequently until juices form a
thick sauce. Remove from heat, cover, and
refrigerate until at least 1 hour.
Meanwhile, divide pie dough into eight equal
balls. On a well floured surface, roll out each
ball into a 5-inch round. Place each round on
a piece of parchment paper, stacking them
together so they don’t stick. Refrigerate for 45
minutes.
Line a large baking sheet with parchment
paper. Remove the dough and filling from the
refrigerator. Place 2 to 2½ tablespoons cherry
filling in the center of each round, then fold
in half to enclose and crimp the edges to seal.
Brush the outside of the pies with egg and
sprinkle with remaining 3 tablespoons sugar.
Make 3 small cuts on the top of the pies to
vent. Refrigerate prepared pies for 30 minutes
and preheat oven to 350°F.
Bake pies in the middle of the oven until
golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool on the
pan for 2 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack
to cool completely.
FAVORITE CHOCOLATE PIE
Dough for a single-crust pie
4 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
¾ cups sugar
5 tablespoons flour
1/4 teaspoon
of salt
1½ cups of milk
2 eggs, separated
(yolks and whites)
½ teaspoon
of vanilla
1 tablespoon
of butter
1/8 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons sugar
Prepare the crust: Preheat oven to 375°F. On
a lightly floured surface, roll out pie crust to
a 12-inch circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate,
folding over any excess dough and crimping
edges. Prick crust all over with a fork and then
chill 30 minutes. Line inside of pie with a piece
of aluminium foil and fill with dried beans or
pie weights. Bake for 15 minutes; remove foil
and weights and bake until pale golden, 5 to 7
minutes more. Cool.
Prepare the filling: Reduce oven temperature
to at 350°F. Mix ¾ cup sugar, flour, salt, cocoa,
egg yolks and milk with a whisk in a medium
sauce pan. Cook on medium heat, stirring
constantly, until it bubbles and thickens, about
five to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir
in vanilla and butter.
Make the meringue: Now beat egg whites
with salt until get fluffy, and then add the 4
tablespoons of sugar.
Assemble the pie: Pour the chocolate custard
into the baked pie shell and top with the
beaten egg whites. Bake just until the peaks
on the meringue are lightly browned, about 10
minutes. Serve warm or chill and serve cold.
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