OCN 100 ASSIGNMENT: Wind-Driven Waves
Name______________________________
Class (day/time) _____________________
Part 1—Waves in the Pacific
Go to: http://facs.scripps.edu/surf/images/maps/ganimnep.gif
This animated image displays the significant wave height in feet over the last 72-hour period. Print out the
image.
1. On the image, mark the location of any storm centers (highest waves); use an arrow to indicate the
direction they move over the 72-hour period.
The direction storms move is from ____________ to _______________.
The wind belt driving the storms is the _____________________________________.
2. How high are the largest waves? _____________ feet.
Storms with the largest waves are located in the (circle one): North Pacific / South Pacific.
Which season is it in that area? _____________________________
3. Wave heights in the Gulf of Mexico and Gulf of California are __________________ feet. Explain why
there is a difference in wave height compared to the North and South Pacific.
Part 2—Waves in the Southern California Bight
Go to: http://cdip.ucsd.edu/models/socal_now.shtml
This image shows the latest wave conditions off the Southern California coast from Point Conception to the
US-Mexico Border. It is part of the Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP). Data is collected by the Harvest
Buoy off Pt. Conception, analyzed, and used to produce the wave model.
 The color bar across the top shows wave height in feet.
 The table in the upper right of the image shows data for swells coming from the North Pacific and
South Pacific: height in feet (Hs), period in seconds (Tp), and compass direction of swells (Dp). Note
that on a compass, 180° = due south, 270° = due west, and 360° = due north.
 The dark blue semi-circle in the lower left graphically shows the direction of wave-generating areas
(storms) and the wave periods associated with them. For this exercise you can ignore this; however,
realize that the dark blue semi-circle is NOT a weird area of calm waves off the coast.
Check out a map of the area (from an atlas or Google Earth) to see the names of the islands for your
descriptions.
Print out a color copy of the CDIP image. Use the image to answer the questions. Caution: the image is
updated frequently, so use your printed image to answer the questions.
1. Date of CDIP image: _____________________________ Time: ________PST
2. From which direction are the largest swells coming? (circle one): N. Pacific / S. Pacific
Hs = __________; Tp = _____________; Dp = ____________
3. Compare the swell heights along the coast from north of Point Conception to swell heights along the
coast south of Point Conception. Use wave height data.
4. Based on the color pattern, describe what happens to the direction of wave energy south of Point
Conception. What wave phenomenon is responsible for this?
5. Describe the interactions of the swells around the offshore islands. Use colored pencils to illustrate an
island and the typical wave pattern around it. Make sure to label the wave heights.
6. Look at the area near 32.5° latitude and 19.1° longitude. As there is no island there, explain what could
cause the large waves in the area. Check this site for reference:
http://www.bouwman.com/California/Cortes-Bank.html
7. Southern California is more vulnerable to large waves (possibly a tsunami) generated to the south than to
waves generated to the northwest. Explain why this is the case. (Hint: note the orientation of the coastline and
the number/orientation of the islands.)
Staple your CDIP image and Pacific image to your answer pages.