rlsept_p-61.ps 8/16/02 11:43 AM Page 61 survival russian Life with Mushrooms t ought to be a folk saying: He who rain that falls when the sun is shining and picks mushrooms as a child is addict- stimulates the growth of the tender ed for life. My addiction to грибы грибница—the mushroom root. began at the age of 4. Ever since, these By the way, here is a linguistic secret: “meat of the forest” have been a beloved The regular way to say “picking mushpart of my life. rooms” is ходить за грибами. But when This addiction is hard to explain to the your dacha neighbor sees you in rubber uninitiated. What’s so attractive about boots, carrying a woven basket and asks, combing through the moss under pine trees in search of the most precious and But keep your tongue Eat your pie noble of all mushrooms— behind your teeth! with mushrooms ... the белый гриб (white mushroom, a.k.a. боровик)? Or why should one endure countless mosquito bites just to spot the brown cap of a подберёзовик (literally, “the one under the birch tree”). But do it once— uncover these mushrooms on your own and then sup on soup made from them an hour later—and you’ll hardly notice “Куда?” (“Where are you off to?”), it is the scratches on your face from tree much more stylish (and worthy of a true branches or how soaked your feet are грибник) to respond “По грибы!” (rather from tromping through a swamp in than “за грибами!”) search of a cool, red-haired подосиновик Of course, the truly competitive (literally “the one under the aspen tree,” грибник may try to put his neighbor off this mushroom, in fact, often prefers to the scent by saying he is going berry nest under ferns near former swamps. picking. Every грибник has his own speIf the early bird gets the worm, he also cial грибные места (“mushroom-rich gets the best mushrooms. A dedicated places”), and the best way to keep those mushroom hunter sets out no later than 5 places secret is (aside from getting up AM, better yet 3 or 4 o’clock. That way, he very early) to never let anyone know has the forest all to himself—before less when you are going to visit them. avid грибники go on the prowl. Of course, When something is taking off in it’s tough to get up so early, but then, as Russia, just as in English, it can be said the proverb has it, назвался груздем— that this thing (say restaurants) is mushполезай в кузов (literally, “if you want to rooming, but we say it more literally, that call yourself a big white mushroom, you they “are growing like mushrooms after have to get into the basket”). rain”—растут как грибы после дождя. Regardless of the time of day, the best But mushrooms do not always have time for mushroom “shopping” in the positive connotations. A grumpy old perforest is shortly after a грибной дождь— son can be called a старый гриб (“old “mushroom rain”—a very special, light mushroom”), and if someone has a wrin- I kled, weatherbeaten face, we say he is “like a wrinkled mushroom”—как сморщенный гриб. The poisonous toadstool called the поганка is known to all Russian mushroomers, especially its most lethal variety, the бледная поганка (“pale toadstool”). Such notoriety was bound to work its way into slang, and parents in the 1930s1940s, when angry with their progeny, might say: “Ах ты поганка!”(“Oh, you toadstool!”) A popular TV cartoon in the 1970s featured a водяной (a sort of water demon) who sang: Я водяной—я водяной Никто не водится со мной Эх, жизнь моя жестянка — ну её в болото Живу я как поганка — а мне летать охота! I am the water demon, I am Nobody wants to deal with me My life is like a tin can, it belongs in a swamp I live like a toadstool yet I dream of flying! There is also the popular folk saying, Если бы да кабы, да во рту росли грибы (то был бы не рот, а целый огород). Literally, it means “If it weren’t for this and that, mushrooms would be growing in one’s mouth (but then it wouldn’t be a mouth, but a whole garden).” It means stop indulging in wishful thinking, stop fantasizing. Finally, there is the proverb popular during the Stalin era: Ешь пирог с грибами, а язык держи за зубами (“Eat your pie with mushrooms, but keep your tongue behind your teeth.”) In other words, “Hear much, speak little.” This was quite useful wisdom then, when the price of a wrong word could be imprisonment or worse. But it has relevance for an avid грибник—for he who wants to eat mushroom pie had better keep quiet about his грибные места! — Mikhail Ivanov SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2002 • 61
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