Foto: Magnus Rietz
THE NORTHERN, MID- AND SOUTHERN
BOAT HIKING FAIRWAYS
To make it easy for you to look around the archipelago, we have a
few tour suggestions to make. The Northern, Mid and Southern Boat
Hiking Fairways. They are described in detail below and on the back
you can find a map with all our tours. Most of them start at Strömkajen in Stockholm, but some also depart from Vaxholm and Stavsnäs. From here you can make day trips or longer trips. Regardless of
your choice, we recommend you get Waxholmsbolaget’s Boat Hiking
Card. That allows you to travel as much as you want during five days.
WAXHOLMSBOLAGET’S BOAT HIKING CARD
• The Boat Hiking Card costs SEK 340 and is valid for 5 days on all
our tours. They are also valid on board the Cinderella boats.
BIKES, ROWING BOATS, CANOES AND KAYAKS
It’s often better and easier to rent a bike than to bring your own one
along, as it is usually pretty crowded on board the boats. There are
bikes to rent at over 20 islands. Some islands even rent out rowing
boats, canoes and kayaks. For more information, please refer to se­
parate brochures.
PACK LIGHT BUT RIGHT
There are greater chances of sun out in the archipelago than in land,
but make sure to bring rain clothes and a warm sweater, especially at
the beginning of the summer before the water out in the archipelago
is warm. Mosquito oil, sun protection and a pair of tweezers that are
handy to take out ticks with are good things to take. We also recommend a water bottle, as drinking water can be scarce in some islands.
If you are camping you need a camping stove as there is a restriction
on open fires in the archipelago.
A SORT OF ECO TOURISM
Boat hiking is a gentle form of tourism. You ride along on boats
that are in traffic at any rate, you shop in local stores, rent rooms
from the locals or check into one of the cosy hostels. That way you
contribute to a living archipelago society. You also contribute to
work opportunities and to protect the unique flora and fauna of the
archipelago.
Five Swedish crowns from your Boat Hiking Card goes towards the
project “Living Archipelago” the project of Skärgårdsstiftelsen
(”Levande Skärgårdsnatur”). More than 20 years’ of persistent hard
work is now showing results. For example, the number of sea eagles
and seals have increased in the archipelago!
SWITCH OVER TO ANOTHER TOUR WITH
A ROWING BOAT OR HIKING
On some islands it is possible to switch over between different boat
fairways. Some places even let you do this with the help of a rowing
boat. They are strategically placed so that you can row to an island
across the water and switch over to another boat tour. The only
request is that you first row across and pick up the other available
rowing boat so that no side is without.
BUY WHAT YOU NEED FROM THE LOCALS
Take the opportunity to shop local produce, as this will support
the local inhabitants but also because you can get some very good
­quality produce that way. You can often also rent bikes or enjoy
bed & breakfast. Please visit www.skargardshandlarna.com for more
information.
HOSTELS AND BED & BREAKFAST
There are plenty of nice places to stay overnight in the archipelago.
In the brochures that accompany your Boat Hiking Card you will find
more information. Make sure to make reservations well ahead of
time. Especially the hostels tend to get fully booked in summer. Bed
& breakfast is always booked through the host or hostess directly.
Bring a hand rod and fish anywhere
in the Stockholm archipelago.
GOOD TO KNOW
• Activate your Boat Hiking Card in the ticket
machine on board, at every trip. You will
then be given a ticket to hand to the ticket
collector as you step ashore.
• Don’t forget to use the signal, the round
sign by the jetty, and put it vertically
if you want the boat and captain to
pick you up. If it is dark you will need
a flashlight to signal with.
• The final destination is not always stated
on the boat. Therefore, boat hikers may well
head the wrong direction, especially when
boats bound for Stockholm arrive at the same
time as boats bound for the archipelago. Ask
the staff if you are not sure!
• Some islands have several jetties. At Svartsö
for example, Norra Svartsö jetty is in the
northern part, whereas Alsvik’s jetty is on
the southern side of the island and is
therefore connected to another tour.
Nåttarö. Foto: Malcolm Hanes
The archipelago of Stockholm is like another country,
yet only a few sea miles from the capital. Everything
is so different out here, far away from everyday life in
the city. Often this is precisely what the city folk need
– a mini-holiday. A day out at Utö or perhaps a few
days at Finn­hamn. Welcome on board!
CAMPING
The areas for tents are not classified as camping grounds in the
archipelago, in the way that they are ashore. Here it is a question
of basic comfort – and an amazing experience in nature. There are
camping grounds in Finnhamn, Fjärdlång, Grinda, Rånö, Nåttarö and
Utö. Several of Skärgårdsstiftelsen’s nature reserves have spots for
resting and camping. Please refer to the brochure “The Stockholm
Archipelago” or visit www.skargardsstiftelsen.se
FISHING
There is pike, perch and herring in the Stockholm archipelago. Sometimes there is even salmon, trout, pike-perch and whitefish. Fishing
with hand rods is free for everyone. However, be aware of bird protection areas and don’t go closer to professional anglers and their
equipment than 100 metres.
• All the information you need to plan your trip is available in bro­
chures and timetables which you will get when you buy your
Boat Hiking Card. You can also visit www.minisemester.nu and
www.waxholmsbolaget.se
• The Card is valid as from the first trip you make. That means you
can buy it well ahead of time and plan your trip without any rush.
• The Boat Hiking Card is available at our terminals by Strömkajen
in Stockholm, in Stavsnäs and Vaxholm, as well as in Sverigehuset
and at several tourist agencies in the archipelago.
Foto: Malcolm Hanes
So close and yet
so different
Produktion: Megafon
Boat Hiker’s Map
THE DISABLED
Even if you are disabled, it is quite possible to be a tourist in the
Stockholm archipelago. Most of our modern boats are spacious and
have toilet for the disabled and helpful staff. If you would like to go
ashore, there are several suitable islands. Please refer to our brochure
“Skärgård för alla”.
Arholma
Norrtälje
Fejan
Furusund
Norröra
Söderöra
Ängsö
Siaröfortet
Östanå
Ljusterö
SL
Finnhamn
Ingemarsö
Svartsö
Möja
Lådna
Grinda
Stavsudda
Gällnö
Granholmen
Vaxholm
Stockholm
SL
Nämdö
SL
Dalarö
Årsta
Havsbad
Ornö
Utö
Stockholm’s northern archipelago is reached with m/s Sjöbris and
m/s Sjögull from Strömkajen in Stockholm, Vaxholm or Östanå.
Värmdö
Stavsnäs Runmarö
Nynäshamn
You travel via Vaxholm through Roslagen. Half way
there, the fairway parts and you can choose between
classic destinations like Fejan, Idö and Arholma in the
north, or Saltkråkorna’s Norröra, Rödlöga and Svartlöga
out in the outer parts of the archipelago.
Rödlöga
Svartlöga
Sandhamn
Siaröfortet
Between the mainland and northern Ljusterö you will find Siarö­
fortet, an underground military defence post from the first world
war. Nowadays, there is an interesting museum in its place and you
will also find a hostel, a café and opportunities to go swimming on
the island.
Bullerö
Kymmendö
Fjärdlång
Towards Arholma or Rödlöga
At Siaröfortet it’s time to choose direction. Either you catch a boat
through Furusundsleden, towards Ängsö National park, Furusund and
on to Svartlöga or Rödlöga. Or you follow the fairway through Blidö­
sundet towards Fejan, Idö and Arholma. See description below.
Huvudskär
Rånö
Ålö
Nåttarö
Alternative 1
Ängsö National park Ängsö is home to most of Roslagen’s magnificent scenery and was de­signated a national park in 1909. Winding through the fields and pas­
tures is a network of hiking paths, from where you may occasionally
catch a glimpse of a sea eagle or fish hawk. There are plenty of bathing
areas and a Nature Room with a small but interesting ­exhibition.
overnight, this is a good place for camping.
If you go all the way to Rödlöga you will have less time ashore, but
on the other hand you have now reached as far out into the archipelago as you can through the regular boat traffic. Here you will find
a small store with a summer café and great places to go swimming.
Please refer to more information in the brochure “Archipelago Tours“.
Rödlögaboden’s charming Café Truten
on the island of Rödlöga.
hosts an inn and one of the best restaurants in the archipelago
­(awarded Best Restaurant in the Archipelago in 2006). There is also
a hostel and some nice cottages to rent.
A bit further into the island you will find Lidö Gård, a small-scale
ecological farm with cows, sheep and horses as well as a farm store in
the guest harbour. For the rest, Lidö is largely unpopulated with natural forests. The island is owned by Skärgårdsstiftelsen. For more information, please refer to their publication “The Stockholm Archipelago”.
Back towards Stockholm
You can catch the boat back into Stockholm again. Or you can take
the boat m/s Viggen from Rödlöga to Furusund and then catch a bus
via Norrtälje to Stockholm. The buses run several times a day.
Furusund
The boat trip continues to Furusund. Here you will find several historical
locations near the steamboat jetty; the windmill, the optical telegraph,
the elegant bath hotel from the turn of the century and several of
­August Strindberg’s summer residences. The island is connected by
boat ferry to both Yxlan and Blidö, and there are bridges to the main­land so you can even travel by SL-bus to Norrtälje and to Stockholm.
Norröra och Söderöra
On the way to Svartlöga and Rödlöga the boat will pass by Norröra
and Söderöra. Norröra is famous among the Swedes from the children’s
TV-series “ Saltkråkan” which was filmed here in the 60’s. At Söderöra
there is a small store and a fish mongers with smoked fish and locally
grown vegetables.
Alternative 2
Fejan
Fejan is one of the most popular islands in the northern part of the
archipelago. In the 1800’s there was a quarantine here in order to
stop the threat of cholera spreading from the east. The island later
became a gathering place for the Baltic people fleeing to Sweden
during the Second World War. Several of the original buildings still
remain, but today they are used as a hostel, a store, a fish smoking
house and one of the very best restaurants in the entire archipelago.
Please refer to more information in the brochure “Archipelago Tours“.
Svartlöga och Rödlöga
In the old days, there were plenty of farmers and fishermen here and
all the way into the 1960’s the islands represented a living archipelago
culture.
At Svartlöga you will find great places for walking and swimming.
You will even have time to go to the old village in the southern part
of the island before returning back into Stockholm. If you plan to stay
Lidö
From Fejan you can catch a boat and make a detour to Lidö. The trips
here correspond to our timetable between Stockholm and Arholma.
Lidö’s history stretches all the way back to the middle ages. In
those days, ”Resare-Bengt” Oxenstierna built an impressive estate
here, which was unfortunately destroyed by the Russians in 1719.
“Lidö Säteri” was raised on the old, remaining foundation. Today it
Foto: Bosse Lind.
The Northern
Fairway
Idö
Lidö
Idö
Idö is yet another of Skärgårdsstiftelsen’s many islands. By Idöfladen
you will find the so called “Blomsterfållan”, known for its flowers and
abundance of orchids. There is a telephone and notice board with
information by the jetty.
Arholma
The last jetty along the route is Arholma. The sea sign Båken is from
the 18th century and well-known for its astounding view. There is also
a hostel here “Bull-August’” farm as well as camping grounds, a store,
a café and bikes and rowing boats to rent. For more infor­mation,
please refer to “Archipelago Tours“ and “­ The Stockholm Archipelago”.
Back towards Stockholm
You can catch the boat all the way back to Stockholm again. If you
would rather travel by bus, take the boat from Arholma to Simpnäs.
Here you can catch a bus via Norrtälje to Stockholm.
You can even catch the Stockholm boat for a bit and get off Östersjö, where you can take a bus towards Stockholm.
A third alternative is to stop at Kapellskär. The village has a very
good youth hostel and busses to take you back to Stockholm.
Award-winning Lidö Krog with
its hotel and youth hostel.
Landsort
Grinda
The first stop after Vaxholm is Grinda. Here you will find several great
spots for sunbathing and swimming, both on sandy beaches and off
the cliffs. As it “Skärgårdsstiftelsen” who owns the island, you are free
to wander almost all over. There is a shop, a hotel, a hostel, cottages
and camping.
Grinda has two jetties- the northern and the southern, and is strategically placed for those who wish to change between various boat
Norra and Södra Stavsudda, Söderholm
Stavsudda is an area with several islands and fine waters for kayaks.
At Norra Stavsudda there is a store, a restaurant and kayak rental.
In Söderholm, facing Södra Stavsudda, there is a living archipelago
farm with a farm store and a café. If you would like to stay overnight, please refer to “Bed & Breakfast Stockholm’s archipelago.”
The Southern
Fairway
Along the Southern Fairway, the open sea is never far
away. On the larger bays, towards well-known destinations like Nåttarö, Rånö, Utö, Fjärdlång, Ornö and Strindberg’s Kymmendö, you can feel the swell.
The archipelago has plenty of bathing areas.
Some of the best are listed in our brochure,
“Archipelago Tours”.
Foto: Magnus Rietz
We choose to start in Nynäshamn, but Stockholm, Saltsjöbaden and
Tyresö are other possible starting points. Take the commuter train
from Stockholm. Our terminal is only a couple of hundred metres
from the station, midst all the cosy fishing huts. From here you can
go to Mysingen, the largest bay in the archipelago. First to Nåttarö,
then on to Rånö.
Nåttarö and Rånö
Nåttarö and Rånö are both owned by Skärgårdsstiftelsen. Here you
will find summer stores, cafés and fine camping sites. You can rent
bikes, rowing boats and a cottage to stay the night. Cottages are let
per week, but if they are not occupied you can often stay over just
for the one night.
At Nåttarö you will find two of the finest beaches in the whole of
the archipelago, Skarsand and Stora sand. By Stora sand there is also
the exciting ”Drottninggrottan”. The cave where Queen Maria Eleonora is said to have hidden during here flight from Sweden in 1640.
Möja
After Granholmen you can look forward to a short boat trip to Berg
at Möja. The original archipelago atmosphere is still present with wellpreserved fishing huts, jetties and a popular dance arena. Berg is the
largest village on the island with a store, a restaurant, a bakery and
a local museum. The store is 5 km:s away and the hostel is at Långviks
brygga in northern Möja. If you would like to take a walk, we recommend the paths on the western side of the island. It’s slightly longer,
but all the more beautiful. For more information, please refer to
“Archipelago Tours“ and “The Stockholm Archipelago”. From Långvik
the tour continues towards Finnhamn, Ingmarsö and Svartsö.
Ramsmora on the island of Möja still retains
its original archipelago character.
Foto: Christer Lundin
Vaxholm
Let’s start in the beautiful archipelago town called Vaxholm, an hour’s
boat ride from Stockholm. This is where archipelago boats of all kinds
make frequent trips to Waxholm’s Fort. You will find all the service you
need in the form of tourist agency, restaurants, and places to stay
overnight. For info, please refer to “Archipelago Tours“.
Sandhamn
Sandhamn at Sandön is a pilot’s place and an internationally renowned sailing centre. You will find two hotels, restaurants, stores and
a bakery here. There are also lots of fine beaches at Sandhamn. For
more information, please refer to “Archipelago Tours“.
Boats for Sandhamn leave both from Stockholm and Stavsnäs.
If you would like to make a detour from the Mid-Fairway there are
Cinderella-boats from the southern jetty at Grinda. The Boat Hikers’
Card is valid here too, at a small extra fee.
Finnhamn
Finnhamn is the turning point in the Mid-Fairway. The area is owned
by Skärgårdsstiftelsen and consists of three islands, Idholmen, Stora
Jolpan and Lilla Jolpan. We are now on the border to the outer archipelago with a varied landscape, protected bays for swimming, s­ mooth
cliffs and fine fishing waters. Near Finnhamns brygga you will find
Finnhamns Café-Inn and a large hostel. There is a store and camping,
as well as cottages and rowing boats to rent. Read more in “Stockholm
Archipelago Guide“ and “The Stockholm Archipelago”.
Ingmarsö
At Ingmarsö there is charming, older archipelago village with approximately 140 permanent inhabitants and a lot of summer guests. At
the southern jetty there is a store, a restaurant and a bakery. If you
would like to stay overnight, there are several bed & breakfast places
(please refer to “Bed & Breakfast Stockholms skärgård”) You can also
go camping near the northern jetty.
Lådna AND Lådnaön
From Ingmarsö it isn’t far to Skärgårdsstiftelsen’s nature reserve
­Hjälmö-Lådna. There is a farm here and people strive to maintain
the original environment from the old times.
There are two steamboat jetties at Lådna, including Karlshems
brygga. You can wander south to the sound between Lådna and
Lådnaön, where you can borrow a rowing boat and go across to
Lådnaön. Walk just over a km to Lådnaön’s north-eastern side. Here
you can find a camping site and fresh water. Please refer to “The
Stockholm Archipelago” for more information.
At Slotts­udden by Östermar there is a giant hollow “bowl” and
beauti­ful cliffs all once made smooth by the inland ice.
by “Skärgårdsstiftelsen”. Please refer to “Archipelago Tours“ and
“The Stockholm Archipelago” for more information.
Detours from the fairway
Ålö and Utö
Only a narrow sound part Rånö from Ålö and it only takes the boat
a few minutes to reach Ålö brygga. There is a nice small archipelago
inn here and a fish farm where they sell smoked fish. You can walk
the nine km to Gruvbryggan in northern Utö. There are often bikes
to rent aswell. Just drop them off at the bike hut by Gruvbryggan.
Ask on board the boat.
In the middle of Ålö the road parts in two. One of the paths leads
on to the fantastic sandy beach at Ålö Storsand, whereas the other
one takes you across the bridge to Utö. By Gruvbryggan at Utö you
will find everything you might need; a tourist agency, a hotel, a hostel, a camping site, a store, showers and washing facilities. There is
a bakery where you can buy the famous Utö. Read more about this
in “Archipelago Tours“ and “The Stockholm Archipelago”.
From Gruvbryggan boats leave for Årsta havsbad with connecting
buses to Västerhaninge and the commuter train to Stockholm. In
summer, there are even boats that go straight into Stockholm and
that’s the one we choose to take now, on our way along the Southern Fairway.
Kymmendö
On our next trip you can choose to stop off at Ornö (please refer to
Detours from the Fairway), but we choose to go straight to August
Strindberg’s Hemsö, that is Kymmendö. There is a store and café
here, but nowhere to stay overnight, so a day visit is to be recommended.
Ornö
Ornö is the largest island in the southern archipelago with great
biking- and hiking routes. There is a store and a bed & breakfast.
By the church and by Kyrkviken there is a Tourist agency, Ornö
Museum with café and bike rental as well as a restaurant.
At Hässelmara gård there is a cosy farm café where you can
look at animals, buy farm produce and rent a bike.
Fjärdlång
Our next stop is Fjärdlång, a beautiful island in the outer archipelago
with a rich bird life and excellent opportunities to go swimming and
fishing. There is a hostel, a camping site, rowing boats to rent and
a kiosk with some food. The larger part of Fjärdlång is maintained
Towards Tyresö, Saltsjöbaden and Stockholm
The boat then leaves for Stockholm. We stop off at Tyresö Brygga,
and then go on to Saltsjöbaden. After the narrow Baggenstäket and
Skurusundet, we are back in Stockholm.
Connecting to the mid-fairway
If you would like to continue boat-hiking, you can connect to the
mid-fairway in Stockholm. But there is another option: change boats
in Saltsjöbaden and head towards Rögrund, Nämdö and Runmarö
(see detours from the fairway) and on to Stavsnäs. From Stavsnäs
there are buses to Sollenkroka brygga where you can continue along
the mid-fairway.
Waxholmsbolaget offers services
to the archipelago all year
round, from Arholma in the
north to Landsort in the south.
Rögrund
From the tower at Rögrund, between Jungfrufjärden and Nämdö­­fjärden, the view is magnificent. The island is owned by “Skärgårds­
stiftelsen” who run the hostel, Gästhemmet Grundet with 35 beds
in a lovely old house from the turn of the century and a café in
Sjöstugan.
Svartsö
From Karlshem’s jetty at Lådna you continue to Ahlsviks brygga
at Svartsö. Here you will find a restaurant, Svartsö Krog, a store,
cottages and bikes to rent. The island has about 60 permanent in­
habitants. There are several lakes with crystal clear water and 1,5
Swedish miles of gravel paths for bike rides. There are no camping
sites, but the Tourist information will be happy to point out, places
to stay. For more information, please refer to “Bed & Breakfast
­Stockholms skärgård”.
From Norra Svartsö brygga, where there are boats running to
Stockholm and Husarö, you can go to Ljusterö, if you like.
Straight to Stockholm or via Karklö and Gällnö
From Svartsö the boat hikers’ fairway continues towards Grinda,
Vaxholm and Stockholm. If you want to make a detour to Gällnö,
you can get off at Karklö and walk 2 km across the island to Vamböströmmen. Here you can borrow a rowing boat to cross over to
­Gällnö. Please show respect to the inhabitants of Karklö who let
you pass across their estates.
If you would like to finish the tour after Gällnö, you can take the
boat back to Stockholm. You can also go to Sollenkroka at Värmdö
and catch the SL-bus to Stockholm. From Sollenkroka there are also
buses to Stavsnäs. From there you can go across to the Southern
BoatHikers’ Fairway or maybe make a detour to Sandhamn, Runmarö
or Nämdö (please refer to “Detours from the fairway”).
a kiosk, a store and a bed & breakfast. The island has an interesting
history including Runmarö kanal, Russian graves and Hans Öhlin’s
museum of tools. The boat leaves from Stavsnäs and goes to several
jetties on the island.
Nämdö
From Stavsnäs there are also boats to Nämdö. Here there is a store,
a restaurant, arts and crafts, a farm store, a bakery and bikes to rent
as well as bed & breakfast. Boats leave from several of these jetties.
Please refer to “Archipelago Tours“ and “The Stockholm Archipelago”.
The southernmost outpost in the archipelago:
Landsort on the island of Öja.
Landsort
The oldest lighthouse in Sweden is on the island Öja. The small village
has a café, a hostel and a bed & breakfast. Catch the Waxholm boat
from Ankarudden which is reachable by bus from Nynäshamn. Please
refer to “Archipelago Tours“ for more information.
Runmarö
Runmarö is an old pilot’s island. There are approximately 200 per­
manent inhabitants here and 3,000 summer guests. There is an inn,
Foto: Magnus Rietz
Gällnö
Gällnö is a living archipelago with animals and a farm. There is also
a shop, bed & breakfast and a hostel where you can rent cottages,
bikes and rowing boats. By Torsviken, further up on the island, there
is a camping site. Please refer to “Archipelago Tours“ and “The Stockholm Archipelago” for more information.
If you would like to stay overnight, you can get off at Gällnö brygga. The next day you can take a walk to Gällnönäs brygga and catch
a boat towards Norra and Södra Stavsudda.
If you would like to make a detour, that is fine too. By the sound at
Torsviken there are boat hikers’ rowing boats to take you over to
Karklö. Walk across the island to Karklö brygga. Here you can choose
to return to Stockholm or continue towards Ingmarsö and Finnhamn.
However, we choose to continue on route towards Gällnönäs, that
is towards Stavsudda.
Returning to Stockholm
If you choose to follow the boat hikers fairway back, you will leave
Finnhamn via a walk along the marked paths across Idholmen. At the
sound you take one of the rowing boats across to Kalgårdsö, which is
a semi-island on the eastern part of Ingmarsö. From there you have
about 3 km to walk along beautiful forest paths to the southern part
of Ingmarsö Brygga. If you have a lot of luggage, you can instead
catch the boat from Finnhamn the Northern or Southern jetty at
Ingmarsö. The two jetties are approximately 1 km apart.
Foto: Christer Lundin
This is where the archipelago is widest, with an abundance of islands and boat tours. From Stockholm and
Vaxholm you can reach islands like Grinda, Gällnö, Möja,
Finnhamn and Ingmarsö. If you are looking for even more
adventure, why not hop between the different tours and
boats using the boat hikers’ rowing boats.
Foto: Magnus Rietz
The Mid Fairway
Detours from the fairway
Granholmen
Granholmen is on the border between the outer and mid-archipelago.
You can tell that the landscape becomes more barren. There is fresh
water to be had, but no store. At Munkhamna there is an excellent
camping site. Read more in “Archipelago Tours“ and “The Stockholm
Archipelago”.
lines. From the northern jetty you can catch boats to Finnhamn and
Husarö and from the southern one boats to Möja and Sandhamn
(please refer to the heading “Detours from the fairway”). We choose
to continue the trip from the southern jetty, towards Gällnö, Stavsudda and Möja.