fall
BY KRISTEN WEGRZYN
the
Makeup, Donna Mee/DonnaMeeInc.com; photographer, David
Nguyen/DavidNStudio.com; model, Meagan Lee/Wilhelmina Models
COLOR PREVIEW 2013:
A MULTITUDE
OF MOODS
general
consensus
among makeup experts is that
this year’s Pantone fall palette
is full of wearable, consumerfriendly colors. (See Fall 2013
Color Guide on Page 70.)
Take a pause before you
assume the description “wearable” translates to “boring”—
these shades evoke strong
emotions and offer “... a strong
nod to actual, real makeup,”
says celebrity makeup artist
and Emmy award-winner
K.J. Bennett.
“Colors have a powerful way
of impacting our mood. Isn’t
that a big reason why we wear cosmetics?”
says Elias Elgueta, makeup artist and
national educator for jane iredale. Pantone’s
palette covers a large range of rich, usable
colors that clients of any age or skin tone can
choose from, says celebrity makeup artist
Taylor Chang-Babain.
Elgueta agrees that Pantone’s research
this season is on point, as always. “The
challenge—and certainly the fun part—is
deciding how the Fashion Color Report relates
and can be incorporated into color cosmetics,” says
Elgueta. “Specifically, how clients at home are going to
incorporate these colors into their makeup wardrobe.”
Off the runway
Makeup wardrobes for upcoming seasons are
tracked just as fashion wardrobes are—straight off the
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www.SkinInc.com
Samba-colored lips
were everywhere on the
runway, and Deep Lichen
Green can be utilized as a
neutral for autumn.
The rich Carafe
can be used as an
alternative to black
around the eyes
for an organic,
back-to-nature look.
Makeup, Donna Mee/DonnaMeeInc.com; photographer,
Gary Lyons; model, Rachele Schank/Women Model Management
runway. Bennett, who frequently attends top fashion
shows, and recently led trend presentations at the 2013
International Make-Up Artist Trade Show in London
and the 2013 Professional Hair and Makeup Expo in
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2013 Allured Business Media.
8/8/13 3:37 PM
INSPIRATION:
FALL SKIN & MAKEUP
Professional skin care and makeup
products for fall ... and beyond.
MAKE MY DAY BEAUTIFUL!
209-772-3305
www.makemydaybeautiful.com
The Professional, Refillable People’s Colors Box
contains high-quality, oil-free pressed mineral
makeup and concealer/shadow base, featuring a
shade selection perfect for all types of clients.
BIOELEMENTS
800-433-6650
www.bioelements.com/pros
LightPlex MegaWatt Skin Brightener is an
antioxidant, moisturizing skin-brightener that helps
quickly brighten, even and hydrate for luminous skin.
JANE IREDALE
800-762-1132
www.janeiredale.com
Vivid pigments blend with nourishing natural oils and
superfruit extracts in PureMoist Lipstick, available in
24 versatile and long-lasting shades.
REPÊCHAGE
800-248-7546
www.repechage.com
Perfect Skin Liquid Foundation SPF12 is formulated
with mineral- and vitamin-rich seaweeds, providing
a flawless and silky smooth appearance, and
delivering nutrients to the skin.
PCA SKIN
877-722-7546
www.pcaskin.com
Intensive Age Refining Treatment: 0.5% pure retinol
night combines 0.5% pure retinol with antioxidants
and other beneficial ingredients to hydrate, soothe
and minimize the appearance of wrinkles.
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Pasedena, California, explains
that there was a cool change of
pace during this year’s shows.
Stylists steered away from the
usual structured look with a splash
of color and, instead, fused trend
colors together.
“Everything was very earthy and
sort of organic,” says Bennett. “All
of the colors had depths that were
unexpected, including the way a
purple had a brown edge to it …
and a brown had mixed-in rusty
and burgundy tones.”
Complexion. Skin was
illuminated in a healthy way, and
was not glossy or shimmery as
it has been in the past, remarks
Bennett, however the t-zone,
including the nose, was matte
or satin-finished. “It was very
well-balanced. Sometimes when
you see spring or summer looks,
models have glowing skin all over
… it reflects the heat of the warmer
weather,” he explains. “This was
very controlled—the tops of the
cheeks and most planes on the
face had a certain amount of
illumination that gave them a glow,
but it wasn’t a [stark or obvious]
highlight.” Bennett suggests using
a liquid illuminator and mixing
it with a liquid foundation or
moisturizer to achieve the look.
Interestingly, Bennett saw a lack of
distinct cheek color; however, he
did note light bronzing and light
contouring. “It was all about eyes
and lips, not about cheeks,” he says.
Eyes. “The most important thing
we saw was lining … the majority of
runway shows had strong eyeliner,
and I’m not talking smoky or
smudgy. I’m talking about serious,
sharp eyeliner … everywhere you
looked, there was a cat eye or a hard
line,” says Bennett.
The predominant eye colors were
Pantone colors; however, they often
came in the form of combinations.
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8/8/13 3:37 PM
Photo courtesy of jane iredale—The Skin Care Makeup.
Carafe, a rich brown, was frequently mixed with Koi,
a decorative orange, which translated into a copper,
says Bennett. The coppery tone was also achieved by
including Samba in the mix for a rusty take on the shade.
Although color fusion was prevalent, single-colored
eye shadow, which is something that artists have not
done a lot of during the past few seasons, made an
appearance. “It’s kind of refreshing to see that some of
the designers are going back [to using single colors on the
eyelids] … as opposed to doing multiples,” says Bennett.
Lips. From rich crimsons and cabernets to berry,
purple-infused reds, prominent, high-pigmented red
lips were everywhere, although a multitude of textures
took the stage. “Some were matte, and some were wet
and shiny,” Bennettt says. As generally seen in the
makeup world, when lips were bold, eyes were quite
soft. However, when eyes were the prominent feature on
the face, lips were nude.
Brows. Eye makeup determined the strength of the
brows. “When you saw a stronger eye with more color—
the orange or reddish browns, burgundy browns or
purple browns—the brows were not that strong. When
models had cat eyes and little eye shadow coloration
and it was only about liner, the brows were stronger,”
says Bennett. “I saw a lot of strong brows with strong
lips.” It’s valuable to note that brows were groomed and
filled in.
how-to
B O LD G LAMO R
Step 1: Prep skin with a primer and brightener.
Putting on-trend colors to use
“The concept of introducing something new or a
trend to clients is something that I am very passionate
about,” says Elgueta. “Just as there are textures and
weights in fashion, color cosmetics have their own
trends each season. Playing with the opacity and
textures of colors allow you to create even more fun,
interesting and wearable looks.”
Alejandro Falcon, artistic director and East Coast
corporate educator for Osmosis Skincare, explains that,
“While fall usually means that makeup applications will
have more intensity, you can still add splashes of color.”
Although it is possible for most clients to wear the
majority of the trending shades, the question you should
ask is: Which colors will look natural or bold on each
skin tone, and what is the look your client is going
for, explains Chang-Babain. “Contrasts will cause the
color to look starker … if [your client] wants to make a
statement, this is the way to go.”
Acai. Makeup artist Donna Mee of Donna Mee,
Inc. explains that Acai can offer a “... fresh, updated
Step 2: Apply pressed powder and set with a
hydration spray.
Step 3: Conceal under-eye area.
Step 4: Finish complexion by applying
translucent matte powder to highlight the
face, and use a dark matte powder to contour
with the use of a blending brush. The overall
look and finish of the complexion for fall
should be semi-matte.
Step 5: Prime the eyelid and apply a layer of
Carafe eye shadow to the crease with a
crease brush.
Step 6. Line they entire eye with a black pencil.
Step 7: Apply Mykonos Blue eye shadow to the
lower lash line.
Step 8: Finish eye makeup with a black
thickening and lengthening mascara.
Step 9: Complete the look by applying a dark
nude moisturizing lipstick or gloss.
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Emerald. “Most women look great in some shade
of green applied as an eye shadow or eyeliner. The
coolness of Emerald green is beautiful against more
pale, cool complexions,” says Elgueta. Farace suggests
applying a splash of the Emerald as an eyeliner to make
the eye pop.
Koi. A decorative orange, Koi is “... an excellent color
choice for clients who have cooler skin tones, as well
as blondes, redheads or strawberry blondes,” says Mee.
Although Koi can be a bit too intense when worn as eye
shadow alone, Mee suggests sheering it down or pairing
it with a golden-brown contour eye shadow. “It looks
best if you put just a hint of the Koi faded to the outer
edge of the darker neutral shade … it’s really pretty on
a blue eye,” she adds. Farace recalls that an orange lip
was a huge trend during the summer season, but it’s
being carried into fall. She recommends sheering Koi
down with a gloss if the highly pigmented color is too
bold for a client.
look when it is used as eyeliner, whether it is applied
with a pencil or powder shadow … specifically with
a yellow-green or dark brown eye.” Esthetician and
makeup artist, Pauline Farace, agrees that Acai works
well as an eyeliner, but can also be incorporated into
a smoky eye for a pop of color. Alternatively, Elgueta
suggests using Acai’s beauty berry undertone on lips.
Carafe. The rich brown shade of Carafe can be used
as a substitute to black and is a suitable replacement
for a daytime eyeliner, says Mee. “It’s also a great go-to
color on most brown or blue eyes, but would make a
green or hazel eye look less green.”
Deep Lichen Green. Pantone describes Deep Lichen
Green as a natural, lush shade. “It’s a great contour shade
for hazel or grayish-green eye colors. The muted green is
great for adding a touch of color to a neutral, smoky eye,”
says Mee. “It’s really pretty on blondes or redheads.”
FALL 2013
COLOR GUIDE
This information was
compiled from Pantone’s
Fall 2013 Fashion Color
Report, which can be
found at www.pantone.
com. Pantone is a global
company that standardizes
the language of color. The
Pantone Color Institute
studies the psychological
and physiological aspect of
color and forecasts color
needs. The names included
are assigned by Pantone.
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Linden Green. Linden Green offers a change from
the deep shades trending for fall, and is described by
Pantone as bringing a lightness and brightness to the
palette. “It’s a subtle color—great as an eye shadow on
a green or muted blue-green eye. It works nice when
it’s applied in a sheer shade, specifically in a shimmer
on the center of the lower lid,” says Mee. Elgueta adds
that, because the shade has a yellow influence, it is best
suited on medium-to-dark complexions.
Emerald
Koi
Mykonos Blue
Deep Lichen Green
Linden Green
Vivacious
Acai
Turbulence
Samba
Carafe
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Samba. “Samba as a lip color
is killer—extremely versatile for
all skin tones. Women should feel
an immediate boost of confidence
when wearing a lovely red lip,” says
Elgueta. Although clients can be
hesitant to wear red blush, Mee
recommends using Samba sparingly
on those with olive-yellow or golden
complexions.
Turbulence. A dark gray,
Turbulence can be used as an
alternative to black. “Try to use
the shade as a contour shadow
or over the low lid if you’re doing
a smoky eye … Turbulence is
especially striking on a muted-blue
or blue-gray eye color,” says Mee.
“For those with large eyelids or a
high crease, the color can still be
too overwhelming. In that case, they
should utilize it as an eyeliner or
smudge it into the eye shadow on the
lash line.”
Vivacious. A deep fuchsia,
Vivacious will enhance warm
complexions, and is especially
fabulous on an olive skin tone, says
Mee. “For a woman who is more
daring and likes a dramatic eye, use
just a little halo of the Vivacious
color at the outer edges of dark
smoky eye. The combination looks
great on a dark brown or hazel eye,”
she says, adding that anyone could
wear it as a sheer tone in a lip gloss.
“The easiest way to incorporate
a new or unfamiliar color into an
eye makeup is to either use it as an
how-to
M AK EOV ER:
INSPIRED
BY NINA RI CCI ’S
FALL 2013
RUNWAY
Step 1: Using a synthetic
foundation brush, apply a
BB cream, which will create
a nice matte canvas for the
foundation while concealing
any redness and adding a touch of hydration.
Step 2: Apply a matte, long-wearing concealer with a small, rounded
synthetic brush, under the eyes. Extend it below to conceal any
under-eye darkness and outward toward the upper cheekbone,
creating a highlighting effect.
Step 3: Apply a matte eyeshadow primer with a small synthetic brush,
from lower lid to brow bone.
Step 4: Apply a mineral-based liquid foundation with a slightly dampened
flocked sponge (with a mineral mist), blending all phases of previous
steps.
Step 5: Use a brow pencil in medium brown to define the shape; then
apply a brow shadow with a tapered angle brush to add more fullness.
Step 6: With a large shadow brush, apply a matte flesh-toned shadow
over the entire lower lid up to the brow bone.
Step 7: Using a small contour brush, lightly apply a matte brown shadow
across the upper crease of the lid, extending outward.
Step 8: For eyeliner, use a tapered angle shader brush with the same
matte brown used for contouring the lid, and lightly line the lower
and upper lash line, extending it just past the outer corner to create a
soft-shadowed cat eye.
Step 9: Contour the cheek area with a large angled brush and bronzing
powder.
Step 10: Choose a neutral blush color and apply with a blush brush.
Step 11: Line lips with a neutral lip pencil and fill in with a tapered lip
brush. Apply the first layer of matte red lipstick; blot lips with a tissue
and follow with a second layer.
Step 12: Using a translucent powder and a medium-sized powder brush,
set foundation.
Step 13: Complete the look with a coat of black mascara, using a
disposable wand to avoid clumps.
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Makeup and photographer, Pauline Farace, www.jouleface.com;
hair and model, Camille Oneto
Mykonos Blue. Mykonos Blue
is a bold, but classic shade. Blue
can often be a challenging color to
wear, but Mee says, “Mykonos Blue
is flattering on the right shade of
a blue eye if it has a darker outer
iris, but it can also be done on a
brown eye.” She suggests that, like
Emerald, this shade can be worn
as an eyeliner for those seeking to
make a fashion statement.
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Mee suggests sheering down a
Koi eyeshadow to create a more
wearable look.
eyeliner or to put it on the lid only and fade it into the
crease, and do nothing else,” say Bennett. “Using these
rich colors—these brown-based purples and burgundies
and oranges—if you do the color on the lid only, and
blur the lines up to the crease, apply your liner and
mascara—and it’s a really nice, fresh way to do it.”
Trends: A retail and marketing
opportunity
Makeup and hair, Cindy Tran; photographer, David Nguyen/
DavidNStudio.com; model, Erin Dills/Ford Models; retouching,
RA Retouching
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Trends are often quickly fleeting season-to-season,
even though they have the opportunity to become
classic, or at least stick around for a few more months.
For example, Emerald was an identified trend color
last spring, has carried over through summer and
is sticking around for autumn. However, since most
trends do change after several months, you have the
opportunity to freshen up your retail and marketing
tactics each time they do. Although clients will not
always be interested in the newest trends, most women
do want to make additions that will keep their look
current and fresh, says Elgueta.
Farace holds events and promotions during the
spring and fall to expose her clients to the newest styles.
Her presentations are usually brief, and she spends the
time updating her clients on current and upcoming
trends. To market events and promotions, Farace
sends out e-mails, posts on social media and creates a
small display in her skin care facility to create interest.
Trends off the runway can be difficult to incorporate
into everyday life, but Farace recommends beginning
by focusing on what the client is comfortable with, and
how much they would like to add into their makeup
wardrobe during the upcoming season.
Farace uses visuals and images as marketing
tools, showing her clients looks she has created and
demonstrating how trends can be incorporated into
their everyday looks. She also recommends that
professionals wear the on-trend looks so clients can
see how they can be customized to the individual.
Chang-Babain emphasizes that, although trends are
valuable, it’s important that your clients feel their best,
noting that talented makeup application can empower
clients to feel confident no matter the affair.
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