apfelstrudel (apple strudel)

APFELSTRUDEL (APPLE
STRUDEL),
MILCHRAHMSTRUDEL (MILK
AND CREAM STRUDEL),
TOPFENSTRUDEL (CURD
CHEESE STRUDEL)
RECORD NUMBER: 177
DISCLOSURE DATE
A handwritten recipe for Mülch Raumb Strudl (milk and cream strudel) is found in an anonymous cookbook
(“Koch-Puech”) of 1691.
In 1827 Anna Dorn mentions “ausgezogener Apfelstrudel“ (stretched apple strudel) in her “Neustes
Universal- oder: Großes Wiener Kochbuch“.
TITLE
Apfelstrudel (apple strudel), Milchrahmstrudel (milk and cream strudel), Topfenstrudel (curd cheese strudel)
ABSTRACT OR CLAIM
Strudel is the epitome of famous Viennese pastries.
Apfelstrudel (apple strudel) is made from strudel dough which is stretched until wafer-thin. It is filled with
grinded sour apple varieties (“Strudler”), cinnamon, raisins and roasted breadcrumbs. Sour cream is added to
the filling for “Old Viennese Apple Strudel”.
Milchrahmstrudel (milk and cream strudel) is filled with cured cheese, raisins, eggs and sour cream and is
covered with canary milk or vanilla cream sauce.
Topfenstrudel (curd cheese strudel) is made from strudel dough or filo pastry which is filled with curd
cheese, cream and raisins. It is often served with vanilla sauce.
NAME OF PRODUCT, PRODUCTCLASS
Strudel, pastry
NAME OF REGION
Austria
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FIELD OF SEARCH
Food and Agriculture
NAME OF INFORMATION PROVIDER
Ludwig Mann
NAME OF APPLICANT FOR TITLE
Not specified
HOLDER OF KNOWLEDGE ASSOCIATED RESOURCES
Not specified
GRANTEE(S), HOLDER(S), ASSIGNEE(S) OR OWNER(S) OF TITLE, IF ANY
Not specified
DESCRIPTORS
HISTORY:
The designation “strudel” is derived from “stredan”, the Old High German word for “to surge, to roar”, and
refers to the spiral shape of strudel.
The origin of strudel dough is probably the Near East. One can assume that during Moorish times, strudel
dough was brought from North Africa to Spain and France, and then to North and East Europe. In historic
cookbooks (“Granat-Apffel cookbook” of 1699) strudel dough is called Spanish dough. However, in
Moorish Spain, the dough was not stretched but thin sheets of dough were layered one on top of the other.
During the Turkish wars in the 16th and 17th centuries, strudel dough came via Balkan and Hungary to
Vienna. The durable dough was perfectly suited as marching ration. Moreover, Janissaries brought the
Turkish dessert “Baklava” to Austria. It is made of thin pastry layers which are filled with nuts and
sweetened with honey.
For a long period Hungarians were world-renowned experts in the preparation of strudel (“rétes” in
Hungarian). Hungarian wheat flour was rich in gluten which resulted in very smooth dough. Even the
patissier of the famous Parisian Hotel Ritz came to Budapest to study the perfect preparation of strudel
dough. Consequently, “Rétes hongrois” (Hungarian Strudel) became a speciality of the Hotel Ritz in the first
half of the 19th century.
Allegedly, Empress Maria Theresia (1717-1780) made strudel highly acceptable in society and strudel
became famous throughout the entire Austria-Hungarian Monarchy. Viennese apple strudel was so popular
that a big, green and slightly sour apple variety was named “Strudler” due to its special suitability for apple
strudel. Today, “Strudler” is used for various apple varieties characterized by their sour flesh.
In Vienna, strudel was further developed. Thus, Viennese strudel cuisine offers numerous variations of
strudel with various fillings, among them fruits, vegetables, meat and meat products, and curd cheese.
Nowadays, the term “strudel” is used for filled, baked or boiled dough rolls based on strudel dough, filo
pastry, short pastry, or yeast dough.
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ORIGIN OF THE WORD “STRUDEL”
“Strudel” is derived from “stredan”, the Old High German word for “to surge, to roar” and refers to the
coiled shape of strudel. The designation “Strudel” is found in a handwritten cookbook of 1629. In 1715, the
“Frauenzimmer-Lexicon” (women lexicon) of Amaranthes (pseudonym of Gottlieb Siegmund Corvinus)
describes “strudel” as a pastry curved like a snail shell.
The terms “Struggls”, “Strugl”, “Struchl”, or “Strudl” are found in handwritten notes of the 16th century,
while “Strudl” has been common since the 18th century.
The English word “strudel” is a loanword from German and relates mainly to strudel with sweet fillings.
HISTORIC STRUDEL RECIPES
Before the invention of the domestic baking oven, strudel was baked in a covered cast iron pan
(“Reinstrudel”) over open fire. In rural kitchens, strudel was also boiled.
The earliest handwritten recipe for Mülch Raumb Strudl (milk and cream strudel) is found in an anonymous
cookbook (“Koch-Puech”) of 1691. In 1699 the designation “Milch-Rahm-Strudel” appears in “Ein gantz
neues und nutzbares Koch-Buch“ (Granat-Apffel cookbook).
Since the 18th century, Austrian cookbooks have referred to strudel recipes with various fillings, among
them apples, almonds, semolina, rice, curd cheese, milk and cream, poppy, nuts, potatoes, cabbage or
mushrooms. In 1827, Anna Dorn notes in her “Neustes Universal- oder: Großes Wiener Kochbuch” fillings
with crustaceans, rice, bone marrow and chocolate.
According to traditions and customs in regions, fillings with fruits, vegetables, meat, cheese or meat prevail.
CULINARY IMPORTANCE, CUSTOMS AND SAYINGS
Strudel is a traditional festive or even everyday dish in Danube countries which are, therefore, called
“Strudelländer” (strudel countries). In these areas, strudel is a main dish in the pre-Christmas Lent.
One can safely say that strudel is more common in lowlands, while fried pastry and doughnuts dominate in
alpine areas.
In the Austrian province of Burgenland, strudel is a typical dish of the parish fair (“Kirchtagsstrudel”), of
marriage supper, and on Christmas Eve. According to beliefs, it has to be eaten on New Year’s Day, as
otherwise strudel would not be available the entire year.
There is a saying that a female cook in love would prepare the best strudel as she would stretch the dough so
thinly that she could read a love letter through the dough.
“Sich wie der Strudel ziehen“ (streching like a strudel dough) means that nothing moves on.
“Sich abstrudeln” means to work or struggle hard.
REGION
Austria
DESCRIPTION
Apfelstrudel (apple strudel) is prepared with strudel dough stretched until wafer-thin. The dough is filled
with apples (preferably “Strudler”), cinnamon, raisins and roasted bread crumbs. Often, chopped walnuts are
added. Traditionally, it is sprinkled with powder sugar and whipped cream and served warm. Occasionally, it
is served with vanilla sauce or vanilla ice cream.
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“Old Viennese Apple Strudel” contains “Kipfelbrösel” (croissant crumbs) instead of “Semmelbrösel”
(breadcrumbs) and sour cream.
“Salzburger Apfelstrudel” is powdered with sugar and warm milk is poured over it when served.
Milchrahmstudel (milk and cream strudel)
Milchrahmstrudel or “Millirahmstrudel” is a classic Viennese dish. “Milli” means “Milch” (milk) in
Viennese dialect.
Legend has it that Millirahmstrudel was invented by a female cook called “Milli” in the tavern “Zum Roten
Stadl” in Breitenfurt, near Vienna, in the 19th century. In fact, however, a recipe for “Mülch Raimb Strudl”
can be found in a Viennese cookbook as early as in the year 1696.
Milk and cream strudel is filled with bread cubes, raisins, eggs and sour cream and is traditionally made in a
cast iron pan. A mixture of milk, eggs and sugar is gradually added during heating. Milk and cream strudel is
topped with canary milk (milk, egg-yolk and vanilla sugar) or with vanilla cream and is served warm.
Topfenstrudel (curd cheese strudel)
Topfenstrudel is made of strudel dough or filo pastry which is filled with curd cheese, cream and raisins. It is
often served with vanilla sauce.
METHOD OF PRODUCTION
The dough is kneaded and then allowed to rest for some time. After that, it is rolled out and extended on the
back of hands to a wafer-thin layer. Perfect strudel dough is even, without any holes and so thin that you can
read a newspaper through it.
APPLE STRUDEL
Recipe from Plachutta E. and Chr. Wagner (eds.) “The 100 Classic Dishes of Austria”
Ingredients for 2 strudels 24” long, approx. 20 servings:
Strudel dough
10 ½ oz. flour
1 oz. oil
1/10 oz. salt
5 ¼ oz. water
Fried breadcrumbs
4 ¼ oz. clarified butter
5 ¼ oz. breadcrumbs
½ oz. granular sugar
1/3 oz. vanilla sugar
Apple filling
¼ oz. rind or untreated lemon, grated
Approx. 3 – 4 oz. granular sugar (depends on acid content of apples)
3 ¾ lb. apples, peeled, thinly sliced
3 ½ oz. raisins
3 ½ oz. walnuts, coarsely chopped
1/10 oz. cinnamon
Dash of lemon juice, if needed
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Approx. 7 oz. butter for brushing
Icing sugar mixed with 10 % vanilla sugar for sprinkling
Preparation:
Strudel dough
Mix all ingredients in a mixer or manually on the work surface, knead and work together well.
Pat into a loaf, place on a surface brushed with oil and brush dough with oil as well.
Fried breadcrumbs
Heat the clarified butter, add the breadcrumbs, granular sugar and vanilla sugar, and brown well, until the
sugar has caramelised and the breadcrumbs have turned crisp and develop an aromatic scent.
Apple filling
Mix the lemon rind with a third of the sugar, rubbing the mixture thoroughly with a palette knife on the work
surface (stone or plastic). By this process the essential oils of the lemon rind are released and then absorbed
by the sugar, which ensures that the lemon flavour is evenly distributed in the entire apple filling. Loosely
mix the remaining granular sugar, lemon sugar, apples, raisins, walnuts, cinnamon and lemon juice (if any).
Start to roll out the strudel dough lengthways on a floured cloth (or with a pastry roller). Then slip the
floured backs of your hands underneath the dough and pull, starting from the centre and pulling towards the
table corners, until the dough is very thin and transparent.
Fasten the pulled out dough by pulling it over the table corners (table of approx. 56” x 28”) to prevent the
dough from contracting.
Spread the fried breadcrumbs on the dough forming two strips 24” long, with a gap of 4” in between, to
cover approx. one quarter of the dough.
Spread the apple filling on top of the breadcrumb layer and brush the remaining uncovered dough with
melted butter.
Cut off the thick edges and roll up to form a strudel.
Separate by pinching off in the middle, roll the two strudels on to the baking sheet with the help of the cloth.
Brush with butter and bake at 355°F (180°C) for approx. 60 minutes. During baking, brush twice thinly with
butter, and repeat once after having taken the strudels out of the oven..
Let cool briefly, cut into pieces and sprinkle with the icing sugar.
OLD VIENNESE APPLE STRUDEL
Recipe from Plachutta E. and Chr. Wagner (eds.) “The 100 Classic Dishes of Austria”
Like apple strudel, except that 9 oz. sour cream are spread on the apples before rolling up the strudel.
MILK AND CREAM STRUDEL WITH VANILLA CUSTARD
Recipe from Plachutta E. and Chr. Wagner (eds.) “The 100 Classic Dishes of Austria”
Ingredients for 8 servings:
1 pan, approx. 8”x10”
Strudel dough see apple strudel; halve volumes
Filling
3 ½ oz. butter
½ oz. granular sugar
1/3 oz. vanilla sugar
1/6 oz. rind of untreated lemon, grated
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Small pinch of salt
2 ¼ oz. egg yolks
11 ½ oz. curd cheese, strained, rather firm (10 %)
8 ¾ oz. sour cream
1 ½ oz. flour
1 oz. raisins
3 ½ oz. egg whites
3 oz. granular sugar
Royale
8 ¾ oz. milk
3 ½ oz. eggs
Scant 1 oz. granular sugar
1/10 oz. vanilla sugar
Small pinch of salt
Approx. 2 ½ oz. melted butter for brushing
Vanilla custard
11 ½ oz. cream
11 ½ oz. milk
2 ½ oz. granular sugar
¼ oz. vanilla sugar
Small pinch of salt
2 oz. egg yolks
½ oz. vanilla custard powder
Icing sugar mixed with 10 % vanilla sugar for sprinkling
Preparation:
Filling
Cream the butter, granular sugar, vanilla sugar, lemon rind and salt, gradually add the egg yolks, add the
curd cheese and whisk until smooth. Mix in the sour cream, flour and raisins. Beat the egg whites with the
granular sugar until quite stiff but still creamy and fold into the curd cheese mixture. Pull out the strudel
dough.
Spread the filling on the dough to form two strips the length of the pan and approx. 8” wide, with a gap of
2”-3” in between. Brush the remaining uncovered dough with butter. Cut off the thick edges and roll up to
form a strudel. Separate by pinching off in the middle, place into a buttered pan, with the seams underneath.
Brush with butter and bake without steam at 320°F (160°C) for 60 – 70 minutes.
Royale
Heat the milk to approx. 175°F (80°C). Whisk together the eggs, granular sugar, vanilla sugar and salt, stir
into the hot milk. After 20 minutes of the baking time, spread the royale on the strudels evenly. Finish
baking, brushing twice thinly with butter during baking, and brush again after having taken the strudels out
of the oven.
Vanilla custard
Bring to a boil 4/5 of the milk together with the cream, granular sugar, vanilla sugar and salt. Mix the
remaining milk with the egg yolks and custard powder, add, and boil thoroughly. Blend quickly. Let cool the
strudels briefly, cut into pieces, sprinkle with sugar, and serve with vanilla custard.
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CURD CHEESE STRUDEL
Ingredients for 9 servings
Strudel dough, home made
21 oz. curd cheese (20%), strained
5 ¼ oz. butter, lukewarm
5 ¼ oz. granular sugar
9 oz. white bread, decrusted
3 ½ oz. raisins, soaked in a little rum
6 egg yolks
6 egg whites
½ pint milk
½ pint sour cream
Pinch of salt
1 tablespoon vanilla sugar
Rind of ½ lemon
3 ½ oz. butter for brushing
Sugar for sprinkling
Preparation
Soak the white bread in milk, squeeze dry, strain. Cream the butter, lemon rind and vanilla sugar, stir in the
egg yolks one by one, mix in the sour cream, curd cheese and white bread.
Stiffly beat the egg whites together with the granular sugar and salt, fold into the yolk mixture.
Pull out the strudel dough, cut off the edges, brush with butter. Spread the curd cheese mixture on the dough
in one strip, sprinkle with raisins. Roll up tightly, thoroughly seal the edges. Put into a buttered shallow
baking dish, brush with butter and bake in a preheated oven at 355oF (180oC) for 50-60 minutes, until
golden brown. Sprinkle with sugar. Served with vanilla custard.
PROTECTION:
Not specified
KEYWORDS
Food and dishes, Traditional Knowledge, Austria, Vienna, region, Apfelstrudel, Milchrahmstrudel,
Topfenstrudel, apple strudel, old Viennese apple strudel, milk and cream Strudel , curd cheese Strudel.
REFERENCES
Auinger-Pfund et. al. (2005): Lehrbuch der Konditorei, Trauner Verlag, Linz
BAKOS E. Mehlspeisen aus Österreich. Verlag Carl Überreuter, Vienna, 1975. p. 32
KARRER, A. Apfelstrudel. In: A la Carte. Das Magazin für Ess- und Trinkkultur. D+R Verlag, Vienna,
1B/2009, p. 84f.
KELLERMANN, M. Das große Sacher Backbuch: Mehlspeisen, Torten und Gebäck, Seehammer, Weyarn,
1994, p. 16
MAIER-BRUCK, F. Vom Essen auf dem Lande, Kremayr & Scheriau, Vienna, 1995, pp. 41, 186, 604.
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MAIER-BRUCK, F. Klassische Österreichische Küche, Seehammer Verlag GmbH, Weyarn, 2003, pp. 491
– 493
Österreichisches Lebensmittelbuch, Codexkapitel B18 Backerzeugnisse
POHL, H.D. Von Apfelstrudel bis Zwetschkenröster, Carl Ueberreuter, Vienna, 2008, p. 120
PLACHUTTA, WAGNER. Die Gute Küche. Das Österreichische Jahrhundert Kochbuch. Verlag Kremayr
& Schierau, Vienna, 1993, p. 501
WAGNER C., BITTERMANN A. Krönländer Kochbuch. Pichler Verlag, Vienna, 2008; p. 431.
PLACHUTTA E. und Chr. Wagner (eds.) Die 100 klassischen Gerichte Österreichs. Deuticke im Paul
Zsolnay Verlag, Vienna, 2003. pp. 154 -157.
PLACHUTTA E. and Chr. Wagner (eds.) The 100 Classic Dishes of Austria. Deuticke in Paul Zsolnay
Verlag, Vienna, 2003, pp. 154 – 157
SIEVERS G. W. Genussland Österreich. Leopold Stocker Verlag, Graz, 2007, p. 406.
Alles dreht sich um den Strudel
Münchner Apfelstrudel
Apfelstrudel
Der Strudel
Die Geschichte des Strudelteigs
Milchrahmstrudel
Strudel
Strudel english
Last access to internet references on 20 January 2010.
ORIGINAL LANGUAGE CODE
German/English
REGIONAL CONTACT
Not specified
AUTHORS OF GERMAN VERSION
Ludwig Mann, Eva Sommer
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ABRIDGED ENGLISH VERSION
Erhard Höbaus, proofread by Mirjam Freund
Note: The English version does not claim to be a literal translation of the original German record entry.
The recipe for Old Viennese Apple Strudel in the German version is replaced with recipes for
Milchrahmstrudel (Milk and Cream Strudel with Vanilla Custard) and Topfenstrudel (Curd Cheese Strudel)
in the English version.
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