APFELSTRUDEL (APPLE STRUDEL), MILCHRAHMSTRUDEL (MILK AND CREAM STRUDEL), TOPFENSTRUDEL (CURD CHEESE STRUDEL) RECORD NUMBER: 177 DISCLOSURE DATE A handwritten recipe for Mülch Raumb Strudl (milk and cream strudel) is found in an anonymous cookbook (“Koch-Puech”) of 1691. In 1827 Anna Dorn mentions “ausgezogener Apfelstrudel“ (stretched apple strudel) in her “Neustes Universal- oder: Großes Wiener Kochbuch“. TITLE Apfelstrudel (apple strudel), Milchrahmstrudel (milk and cream strudel), Topfenstrudel (curd cheese strudel) ABSTRACT OR CLAIM Strudel is the epitome of famous Viennese pastries. Apfelstrudel (apple strudel) is made from strudel dough which is stretched until wafer-thin. It is filled with grinded sour apple varieties (“Strudler”), cinnamon, raisins and roasted breadcrumbs. Sour cream is added to the filling for “Old Viennese Apple Strudel”. Milchrahmstrudel (milk and cream strudel) is filled with cured cheese, raisins, eggs and sour cream and is covered with canary milk or vanilla cream sauce. Topfenstrudel (curd cheese strudel) is made from strudel dough or filo pastry which is filled with curd cheese, cream and raisins. It is often served with vanilla sauce. NAME OF PRODUCT, PRODUCTCLASS Strudel, pastry NAME OF REGION Austria - 1 - FIELD OF SEARCH Food and Agriculture NAME OF INFORMATION PROVIDER Ludwig Mann NAME OF APPLICANT FOR TITLE Not specified HOLDER OF KNOWLEDGE ASSOCIATED RESOURCES Not specified GRANTEE(S), HOLDER(S), ASSIGNEE(S) OR OWNER(S) OF TITLE, IF ANY Not specified DESCRIPTORS HISTORY: The designation “strudel” is derived from “stredan”, the Old High German word for “to surge, to roar”, and refers to the spiral shape of strudel. The origin of strudel dough is probably the Near East. One can assume that during Moorish times, strudel dough was brought from North Africa to Spain and France, and then to North and East Europe. In historic cookbooks (“Granat-Apffel cookbook” of 1699) strudel dough is called Spanish dough. However, in Moorish Spain, the dough was not stretched but thin sheets of dough were layered one on top of the other. During the Turkish wars in the 16th and 17th centuries, strudel dough came via Balkan and Hungary to Vienna. The durable dough was perfectly suited as marching ration. Moreover, Janissaries brought the Turkish dessert “Baklava” to Austria. It is made of thin pastry layers which are filled with nuts and sweetened with honey. For a long period Hungarians were world-renowned experts in the preparation of strudel (“rétes” in Hungarian). Hungarian wheat flour was rich in gluten which resulted in very smooth dough. Even the patissier of the famous Parisian Hotel Ritz came to Budapest to study the perfect preparation of strudel dough. Consequently, “Rétes hongrois” (Hungarian Strudel) became a speciality of the Hotel Ritz in the first half of the 19th century. Allegedly, Empress Maria Theresia (1717-1780) made strudel highly acceptable in society and strudel became famous throughout the entire Austria-Hungarian Monarchy. Viennese apple strudel was so popular that a big, green and slightly sour apple variety was named “Strudler” due to its special suitability for apple strudel. Today, “Strudler” is used for various apple varieties characterized by their sour flesh. In Vienna, strudel was further developed. Thus, Viennese strudel cuisine offers numerous variations of strudel with various fillings, among them fruits, vegetables, meat and meat products, and curd cheese. Nowadays, the term “strudel” is used for filled, baked or boiled dough rolls based on strudel dough, filo pastry, short pastry, or yeast dough. - 2 - ORIGIN OF THE WORD “STRUDEL” “Strudel” is derived from “stredan”, the Old High German word for “to surge, to roar” and refers to the coiled shape of strudel. The designation “Strudel” is found in a handwritten cookbook of 1629. In 1715, the “Frauenzimmer-Lexicon” (women lexicon) of Amaranthes (pseudonym of Gottlieb Siegmund Corvinus) describes “strudel” as a pastry curved like a snail shell. The terms “Struggls”, “Strugl”, “Struchl”, or “Strudl” are found in handwritten notes of the 16th century, while “Strudl” has been common since the 18th century. The English word “strudel” is a loanword from German and relates mainly to strudel with sweet fillings. HISTORIC STRUDEL RECIPES Before the invention of the domestic baking oven, strudel was baked in a covered cast iron pan (“Reinstrudel”) over open fire. In rural kitchens, strudel was also boiled. The earliest handwritten recipe for Mülch Raumb Strudl (milk and cream strudel) is found in an anonymous cookbook (“Koch-Puech”) of 1691. In 1699 the designation “Milch-Rahm-Strudel” appears in “Ein gantz neues und nutzbares Koch-Buch“ (Granat-Apffel cookbook). Since the 18th century, Austrian cookbooks have referred to strudel recipes with various fillings, among them apples, almonds, semolina, rice, curd cheese, milk and cream, poppy, nuts, potatoes, cabbage or mushrooms. In 1827, Anna Dorn notes in her “Neustes Universal- oder: Großes Wiener Kochbuch” fillings with crustaceans, rice, bone marrow and chocolate. According to traditions and customs in regions, fillings with fruits, vegetables, meat, cheese or meat prevail. CULINARY IMPORTANCE, CUSTOMS AND SAYINGS Strudel is a traditional festive or even everyday dish in Danube countries which are, therefore, called “Strudelländer” (strudel countries). In these areas, strudel is a main dish in the pre-Christmas Lent. One can safely say that strudel is more common in lowlands, while fried pastry and doughnuts dominate in alpine areas. In the Austrian province of Burgenland, strudel is a typical dish of the parish fair (“Kirchtagsstrudel”), of marriage supper, and on Christmas Eve. According to beliefs, it has to be eaten on New Year’s Day, as otherwise strudel would not be available the entire year. There is a saying that a female cook in love would prepare the best strudel as she would stretch the dough so thinly that she could read a love letter through the dough. “Sich wie der Strudel ziehen“ (streching like a strudel dough) means that nothing moves on. “Sich abstrudeln” means to work or struggle hard. REGION Austria DESCRIPTION Apfelstrudel (apple strudel) is prepared with strudel dough stretched until wafer-thin. The dough is filled with apples (preferably “Strudler”), cinnamon, raisins and roasted bread crumbs. Often, chopped walnuts are added. Traditionally, it is sprinkled with powder sugar and whipped cream and served warm. Occasionally, it is served with vanilla sauce or vanilla ice cream. - 3 - “Old Viennese Apple Strudel” contains “Kipfelbrösel” (croissant crumbs) instead of “Semmelbrösel” (breadcrumbs) and sour cream. “Salzburger Apfelstrudel” is powdered with sugar and warm milk is poured over it when served. Milchrahmstudel (milk and cream strudel) Milchrahmstrudel or “Millirahmstrudel” is a classic Viennese dish. “Milli” means “Milch” (milk) in Viennese dialect. Legend has it that Millirahmstrudel was invented by a female cook called “Milli” in the tavern “Zum Roten Stadl” in Breitenfurt, near Vienna, in the 19th century. In fact, however, a recipe for “Mülch Raimb Strudl” can be found in a Viennese cookbook as early as in the year 1696. Milk and cream strudel is filled with bread cubes, raisins, eggs and sour cream and is traditionally made in a cast iron pan. A mixture of milk, eggs and sugar is gradually added during heating. Milk and cream strudel is topped with canary milk (milk, egg-yolk and vanilla sugar) or with vanilla cream and is served warm. Topfenstrudel (curd cheese strudel) Topfenstrudel is made of strudel dough or filo pastry which is filled with curd cheese, cream and raisins. It is often served with vanilla sauce. METHOD OF PRODUCTION The dough is kneaded and then allowed to rest for some time. After that, it is rolled out and extended on the back of hands to a wafer-thin layer. Perfect strudel dough is even, without any holes and so thin that you can read a newspaper through it. APPLE STRUDEL Recipe from Plachutta E. and Chr. Wagner (eds.) “The 100 Classic Dishes of Austria” Ingredients for 2 strudels 24” long, approx. 20 servings: Strudel dough 10 ½ oz. flour 1 oz. oil 1/10 oz. salt 5 ¼ oz. water Fried breadcrumbs 4 ¼ oz. clarified butter 5 ¼ oz. breadcrumbs ½ oz. granular sugar 1/3 oz. vanilla sugar Apple filling ¼ oz. rind or untreated lemon, grated Approx. 3 – 4 oz. granular sugar (depends on acid content of apples) 3 ¾ lb. apples, peeled, thinly sliced 3 ½ oz. raisins 3 ½ oz. walnuts, coarsely chopped 1/10 oz. cinnamon Dash of lemon juice, if needed - 4 - Approx. 7 oz. butter for brushing Icing sugar mixed with 10 % vanilla sugar for sprinkling Preparation: Strudel dough Mix all ingredients in a mixer or manually on the work surface, knead and work together well. Pat into a loaf, place on a surface brushed with oil and brush dough with oil as well. Fried breadcrumbs Heat the clarified butter, add the breadcrumbs, granular sugar and vanilla sugar, and brown well, until the sugar has caramelised and the breadcrumbs have turned crisp and develop an aromatic scent. Apple filling Mix the lemon rind with a third of the sugar, rubbing the mixture thoroughly with a palette knife on the work surface (stone or plastic). By this process the essential oils of the lemon rind are released and then absorbed by the sugar, which ensures that the lemon flavour is evenly distributed in the entire apple filling. Loosely mix the remaining granular sugar, lemon sugar, apples, raisins, walnuts, cinnamon and lemon juice (if any). Start to roll out the strudel dough lengthways on a floured cloth (or with a pastry roller). Then slip the floured backs of your hands underneath the dough and pull, starting from the centre and pulling towards the table corners, until the dough is very thin and transparent. Fasten the pulled out dough by pulling it over the table corners (table of approx. 56” x 28”) to prevent the dough from contracting. Spread the fried breadcrumbs on the dough forming two strips 24” long, with a gap of 4” in between, to cover approx. one quarter of the dough. Spread the apple filling on top of the breadcrumb layer and brush the remaining uncovered dough with melted butter. Cut off the thick edges and roll up to form a strudel. Separate by pinching off in the middle, roll the two strudels on to the baking sheet with the help of the cloth. Brush with butter and bake at 355°F (180°C) for approx. 60 minutes. During baking, brush twice thinly with butter, and repeat once after having taken the strudels out of the oven.. Let cool briefly, cut into pieces and sprinkle with the icing sugar. OLD VIENNESE APPLE STRUDEL Recipe from Plachutta E. and Chr. Wagner (eds.) “The 100 Classic Dishes of Austria” Like apple strudel, except that 9 oz. sour cream are spread on the apples before rolling up the strudel. MILK AND CREAM STRUDEL WITH VANILLA CUSTARD Recipe from Plachutta E. and Chr. Wagner (eds.) “The 100 Classic Dishes of Austria” Ingredients for 8 servings: 1 pan, approx. 8”x10” Strudel dough see apple strudel; halve volumes Filling 3 ½ oz. butter ½ oz. granular sugar 1/3 oz. vanilla sugar 1/6 oz. rind of untreated lemon, grated - 5 - Small pinch of salt 2 ¼ oz. egg yolks 11 ½ oz. curd cheese, strained, rather firm (10 %) 8 ¾ oz. sour cream 1 ½ oz. flour 1 oz. raisins 3 ½ oz. egg whites 3 oz. granular sugar Royale 8 ¾ oz. milk 3 ½ oz. eggs Scant 1 oz. granular sugar 1/10 oz. vanilla sugar Small pinch of salt Approx. 2 ½ oz. melted butter for brushing Vanilla custard 11 ½ oz. cream 11 ½ oz. milk 2 ½ oz. granular sugar ¼ oz. vanilla sugar Small pinch of salt 2 oz. egg yolks ½ oz. vanilla custard powder Icing sugar mixed with 10 % vanilla sugar for sprinkling Preparation: Filling Cream the butter, granular sugar, vanilla sugar, lemon rind and salt, gradually add the egg yolks, add the curd cheese and whisk until smooth. Mix in the sour cream, flour and raisins. Beat the egg whites with the granular sugar until quite stiff but still creamy and fold into the curd cheese mixture. Pull out the strudel dough. Spread the filling on the dough to form two strips the length of the pan and approx. 8” wide, with a gap of 2”-3” in between. Brush the remaining uncovered dough with butter. Cut off the thick edges and roll up to form a strudel. Separate by pinching off in the middle, place into a buttered pan, with the seams underneath. Brush with butter and bake without steam at 320°F (160°C) for 60 – 70 minutes. Royale Heat the milk to approx. 175°F (80°C). Whisk together the eggs, granular sugar, vanilla sugar and salt, stir into the hot milk. After 20 minutes of the baking time, spread the royale on the strudels evenly. Finish baking, brushing twice thinly with butter during baking, and brush again after having taken the strudels out of the oven. Vanilla custard Bring to a boil 4/5 of the milk together with the cream, granular sugar, vanilla sugar and salt. Mix the remaining milk with the egg yolks and custard powder, add, and boil thoroughly. Blend quickly. Let cool the strudels briefly, cut into pieces, sprinkle with sugar, and serve with vanilla custard. - 6 - CURD CHEESE STRUDEL Ingredients for 9 servings Strudel dough, home made 21 oz. curd cheese (20%), strained 5 ¼ oz. butter, lukewarm 5 ¼ oz. granular sugar 9 oz. white bread, decrusted 3 ½ oz. raisins, soaked in a little rum 6 egg yolks 6 egg whites ½ pint milk ½ pint sour cream Pinch of salt 1 tablespoon vanilla sugar Rind of ½ lemon 3 ½ oz. butter for brushing Sugar for sprinkling Preparation Soak the white bread in milk, squeeze dry, strain. Cream the butter, lemon rind and vanilla sugar, stir in the egg yolks one by one, mix in the sour cream, curd cheese and white bread. Stiffly beat the egg whites together with the granular sugar and salt, fold into the yolk mixture. Pull out the strudel dough, cut off the edges, brush with butter. Spread the curd cheese mixture on the dough in one strip, sprinkle with raisins. Roll up tightly, thoroughly seal the edges. Put into a buttered shallow baking dish, brush with butter and bake in a preheated oven at 355oF (180oC) for 50-60 minutes, until golden brown. Sprinkle with sugar. Served with vanilla custard. PROTECTION: Not specified KEYWORDS Food and dishes, Traditional Knowledge, Austria, Vienna, region, Apfelstrudel, Milchrahmstrudel, Topfenstrudel, apple strudel, old Viennese apple strudel, milk and cream Strudel , curd cheese Strudel. REFERENCES Auinger-Pfund et. al. (2005): Lehrbuch der Konditorei, Trauner Verlag, Linz BAKOS E. Mehlspeisen aus Österreich. Verlag Carl Überreuter, Vienna, 1975. p. 32 KARRER, A. Apfelstrudel. In: A la Carte. Das Magazin für Ess- und Trinkkultur. D+R Verlag, Vienna, 1B/2009, p. 84f. KELLERMANN, M. Das große Sacher Backbuch: Mehlspeisen, Torten und Gebäck, Seehammer, Weyarn, 1994, p. 16 MAIER-BRUCK, F. Vom Essen auf dem Lande, Kremayr & Scheriau, Vienna, 1995, pp. 41, 186, 604. - 7 - MAIER-BRUCK, F. Klassische Österreichische Küche, Seehammer Verlag GmbH, Weyarn, 2003, pp. 491 – 493 Österreichisches Lebensmittelbuch, Codexkapitel B18 Backerzeugnisse POHL, H.D. Von Apfelstrudel bis Zwetschkenröster, Carl Ueberreuter, Vienna, 2008, p. 120 PLACHUTTA, WAGNER. Die Gute Küche. Das Österreichische Jahrhundert Kochbuch. Verlag Kremayr & Schierau, Vienna, 1993, p. 501 WAGNER C., BITTERMANN A. Krönländer Kochbuch. Pichler Verlag, Vienna, 2008; p. 431. PLACHUTTA E. und Chr. Wagner (eds.) Die 100 klassischen Gerichte Österreichs. Deuticke im Paul Zsolnay Verlag, Vienna, 2003. pp. 154 -157. PLACHUTTA E. and Chr. Wagner (eds.) The 100 Classic Dishes of Austria. Deuticke in Paul Zsolnay Verlag, Vienna, 2003, pp. 154 – 157 SIEVERS G. W. Genussland Österreich. Leopold Stocker Verlag, Graz, 2007, p. 406. Alles dreht sich um den Strudel Münchner Apfelstrudel Apfelstrudel Der Strudel Die Geschichte des Strudelteigs Milchrahmstrudel Strudel Strudel english Last access to internet references on 20 January 2010. ORIGINAL LANGUAGE CODE German/English REGIONAL CONTACT Not specified AUTHORS OF GERMAN VERSION Ludwig Mann, Eva Sommer - 8 - ABRIDGED ENGLISH VERSION Erhard Höbaus, proofread by Mirjam Freund Note: The English version does not claim to be a literal translation of the original German record entry. The recipe for Old Viennese Apple Strudel in the German version is replaced with recipes for Milchrahmstrudel (Milk and Cream Strudel with Vanilla Custard) and Topfenstrudel (Curd Cheese Strudel) in the English version. - 9 -
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