Cover story Prawn jewel Fisherman-owned Vancouver company flourishes with British Columbia’s spot prawn fishery By Rick Crosby The Spot Prawn Festival, held on Granville Island in Vancouver, is the brainchild of restaurateur Robert Clark and fisherman Steve Johansen. 24 NATIONAL FISHERMAN • JUNE 2011 Steve Johansen (left) and Frank Keitsch sort trap-caught keepers from egg-bearing prawns and bycatch aboard the Organic Ocean One off Vancouver, British Columbia. “I remember Steve and I walking around Granville Island with a plate of prawns that we cooked, just giving out prawns,” says Frank Keitsch, 44, who runs the 27-foot Organic Ocean One for Organic Ocean Seafood. The spot prawn fishery has been active for 30 or 40 years off the B.C. coast. But in the 1990s, the Japanese market made the fishery lucrative for newcomers. In the beginning Johansen and Keitsch lost gear on snags and in rockslides. Rick Crosby photos O n Saturday, May 8, 2010, a row of white tents is set up on one jetty at Fisherman’s Wharf near Vancouver’s Granville Island. A group of seafood chefs stand out in their starch white uniforms in the growing crowd of visitors at British Columbia’s fourth annual Spot Prawn Festival. The gathering is the brainchild of Vancouver prawn fisherman Steve Johansen, 43, and restaurateur Robert Clark, 47, who believe spot prawns are the poster child for sustainable fisheries. In the early 1990s spot prawns were relatively unknown to consumers in British Columbia. “You go out there and set the gear, and it’s 50-50 whether there are prawns in the area you’re working,” recounts Keitsch, who began fishing with his father on summer holidays. Sometimes they’d set in 50 fathoms and get nothing; and then set in 70 fathoms, and boom — there were the prawns. At 6:45 a.m., on June 22, six weeks after the Spot Prawn Festival, the Organic Ocean One departs Fisherman’s Wharf. This is its 47th consecutive day fishing, and the crew is starting to feel it. “Do we really have to go out?” Johansen jokes good-naturedly when he arrives at the dock. Yes, they do. With the market teeming for sustainably harvested spot prawns they’d be crazy not to. In the last four years Organic Ocean Seafood, co-owned by Johansen and Dane Chauvel, has served the domestic market exclusively supplying spot prawns to restaurants across Canada. They recently began supplying prawns to chefs in Las Vegas. At 7:50 a.m., we’re 15 feet offshore in 350 feet of water up Indian Arm, a fjord east of Vancouver. Keitsch fills the live hatch with deep seawater. “Surface water has some fresh water For updated news, visit www.nationalfisherman.com THE FACTS: British columbia spot prawn fishing •N umber of participating boats: About 250 licenses in British Columbia; half a dozen out of False Creek in Vancouver. • Size of participating boats: 20 to 45 feet • Crew size: Two to five • Typical fishing areas: From Victoria on Vancouver Island up to the Alaska border. • Depth: 30 to 100 fathoms • Gear: 300 traps, each 30 to 37 inches with a minimum mesh size of 1 1/2 inches. • Capital investment: The boat, gear and license is about $700,000 Canadian. Threehundred traps cost $100 each. Ground lines and bait chips bring the cost up to $40,000 or $50,000 a year for gear. Tying up at a government wharf is about $1,000 a year. •S pot prawn landings: The annual harvest is 5 million to 6 million pounds, an average 20,000 pounds per permit. • Licenses and permits: A onetime purchase of a prawn license costs $500,000, Canadian, and renewed annually for $4,300. •G eneral regulations: Canada’s Department of Fisheries and Oceans manages the fishery. • Season length: Fishing is open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. for six to eight weeks in May and June. •Ex-vessel prices: The average price paid by restaurant chefs is $10 a pound. A public market pays $7 or $8 a pound to the fishermen. Direct retail sales yield about $12 a pound. •M arkets: The main market for spot prawns is independently owned restaurants in Canada. in it that can kill prawns,” Keitsch explains. A computerized chilling system lowers the seawater temperature in the hold to 35 degrees Fahrenheit. The crew har- vests three strings a day and leaves three strings to soak. The traps are set within a 50-mile radius of Vancouver in Howe Sound and up off the Sechelt Peninsula. The spot prawn fishery covers the coast of British Columbia from Vancouver up to Prince Rupert and off Alaska. “It tends to be a homesteader’s fishery, where the guys operate in the same regions each year,” says Chauvel, 52. FISHING AREA British Columbia DETAIL AREA Howe Sound .o St eo fG Indian Arm Vancouver ia rg Washington St. of Juan de Fuca N 0 30 mi. Transform Your Stuffing Box Into A High Tech Shaft Seal Solution. This new high performance compression packing was specifically engineered to meet the demands of marine propulsion. It is never consumed in use. Ultra-X® is self-lubricating, needs virtually no water for lubrication, and keeps bilge dry and clean of contaminants. It lasts over 5x longer than flax or PTFE packing. 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FAX 800.497.9283 USA & Canada or 440.834.4950 [email protected] 9/16/10 11:14:03 AM JUNE 2011 • NATIONAL FISHERMAN 25 Cover story Spot prawns: a profitable harvest There are about 250 license holders on the B.C. coast. Each permit allows 300 traps, which fishermen set in six strings of 50 traps in 30 to 100 fathoms. “If you lease a license from somebody who’s not going to actively fish, you are then able to fish an additional 200 traps,” Chauvel explains. “A stacker license takes advantage of the economics to fish more traps with fewer boats.” The fishery opens on the first week in May and tends to be a six- to eightweek season, closing sometime between the end of June and early July, based on the closely watched spawner index to protect the breeding class. It’s a competitive business. “On opening day fishermen are hollering and swearing at each other because one guy’s laid down his string of traps in an area that’s traditionally been held by another guy,” Chauvel says. Spot prawns have become a valuable shellfish fishery with a gross value of $30 million to $40 million in British Columbia on an average 5.5 million pounds landed. The fleet caught a high F isherman’s Wharf has been a prominent fixture in British Columbia’s commercial fishing industry for decades. But 10 years ago competition from farmed salmon caused a decline in the mainstay wild salmon fishing. “Investors like us said if we’re going to stay in this business we’re going to have to re-invent ourselves,” explains Dane Chauvel, co-owner of Organic Ocean Seafood with fellow fisherman Steve Johansen. “[Restaurateur] Robert Clark has been a captain of sustainability when it comes to local seafood,” Johansen says. “Five years ago he was out fishing with us and he said, ‘I want these prawns. Where are they?’” The two men got together that winter and came up with the idea for the Spot Prawn Festival. “General society wanted a better connection with where their food came from,” Johansen says. “They wanted the connection between the fisherman and the plate. That’s what’s so successful for us. The chefs can talk to the boat that’s harvesting their prawns that are going to be in their kitchens that night.” — R.C. 7.7 million pounds in 2009 and dipped to 4.4 million pounds in 2010. The prawns are graded from medium with 2-inch tails to jumbos with 4-inchlong tails. When the catch is delivered to the dock they’re unloaded to a processing distribution facility and put in cold storage until shipment. Fisherman’s Wharf is Organic Ocean Seafood’s main operation center for their domestic distribution business. The company outsources processing, transportation and cold storage for their product. “This enables us to be fully integrated and fully resourced without a large capital investment,” Chauvel explains. Winches and Capstans Designed for Outstanding Performance and Dependability Best Value in Hydraulic Marine Cable Winches BLOOM Mfg. Inc. Winch Division 1443 220th Street, Independence, Iowa 50644 FAX 319-827-1140 PHONE 319-827-1139 www.bloommfg.com 1-800-394-1139 Ext. 164 "Custom Engineered Solutions 26 NATIONAL FISHERMAN • JUNE 2011 For updated news, visit www.nationalfisherman.com O n the Organic Ocean One, Keitsch mans the hauler while deckhand Trevor White, 22, gets ready to stack the traps. The first string of 50 traps comes up. “Not much,” Keitsch remarks. Spot prawns have a four-year cycle. They are born male and transform into female two years into their cycle during a 10-month period from spring to fall. “Last year was an absolute record catch for the entire fleet on the B.C. coast,” Keitsch says. “This year was probably one of the slowest years on record.” Cold weather could have been a factor. “Prawns do their spawning in winter, and come April or May they’ve laid their eggs and done their molt,” Keitsch explains. “This year we noticed that right until the last day of the season we were still catching a lot of prawns with eggs in ’em.’” While Keitsch mans the hauler, Johansen deftly separates the male prawns from the females, throwing the females and any bycatch back into the water. “We release our egg-bearing prawns,” Chauvel explains. “The design of the traps enables us to release almost all of the bycatch alive.” “Forty-five fathoms!” Johansen yells. But the first three traps yield slim pickings. “In the beginning of the prawn season every trap is full,” Keitsch informs me. The third set also yields few prawns, and we move down Indian Arm. Johansen slows the boat and positions just offshore. The crew puts out the traps for tomorrow morning. Then we head back to Fisherman’s Wharf. Commercial spot prawn fishermen can live with a slow season because of cold weather. They’re more dismayed about the recreational fishery that uses an unregulated mesh size and is not required to release egg-bearing prawns. “You can’t regulate one sector and leave another sector unregulated,” Chauvel says adamantly. Johansen is equally concerned. “It makes no sense for us to be involved in one of the most sustainable fisheries in the world if there’s a recreational fleet out there 12 months a year doing the complete opposite,” he says. On Saturday, May 8, when the OrTo subscribe, call 1-800-959-5073 ganic Ocean One pulled up to the dock at Fisherman’s Wharf, people lined up to buy prawns. “Sold 500 pounds of prawns in about two hours,” Chauvel says proudly. At 12 dollars a pound in the retail market, that’s a good catch. The season started out well and the boat worked hard. Johansen and his crew talked about taking a day off. “But we can’t,” Johansen says. Organic Ocean Seafood’s business has evolved to include liaisons with tourism groups and talking with chefs on television shows about sustainable fishing. “We’re very proud of it and looking forward,” Keitsch says. Rick Crosby is a freelance writer living in British Columbia. JUNE 2011 • NATIONAL FISHERMAN 27
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